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+{"text":"\n\n**ALSO BY CINDY WOCKNER**\n\n_Bali 9: The Untold Story_ (with Madonna King)\n\n_Evil in the Suburbs_ (with Michael Porta)\n_To Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran,  \nthe Pastor and the Painter,  \nwho showed us all that people can change._\n\n_Everyone deserves a second chance._\n'As one whose husband and mother-in-law have died the victims of murder and assassination, I stand firmly and unequivocally opposed to the death penalty for those convicted of capital offenses. An evil deed is not redeemed by an evil deed of retaliation.'\n\n**CORETTA SCOTT KING**\n\n# CONTENTS\n\nTitle Page\n\nAlso by Cindy Wockner\n\nDedication\n\nPrologue\n\n1. Busted\n\n2. Hukuman Mati\n\n3. From Drugs to Jesus\n\n4. Love Your Enemy\n\n5. Respect\n\n6. The Pastor and the Painter\n\n7. Clemency Denied\n\n8. People Can Change\n\n9. A Nation Pleads\n\n10. The Fight Intensifies\n\n11. Mercy, Please\n\n12. The Last Flight\n\n13. Nusakambangan\n\n14. 72 Hours\n\n15. Death Row Wedding\n\n16. The Last Day\n\n17. Preparing the Spirit\n\n18. The End\n\n19. Execution\n\n20. Goodbye\n\nAmnesty and Reprieve\n\nAcknowledgements\n\nIndex\n\nAbout the Author\n\nIllustrations\n\nCopyright\n\n# PROLOGUE\n\nMyuran Sukumaran and Andrew Chan got what they did not deserve. They did not deserve to be tied up to wooden crosses and shot dead in the early hours of the morning in April 2015. Nor did the six others who were with them in the darkness.\n\nTheir parents did not deserve the torture they were forced to endure for months and weeks beforehand and the torment of knowing they had just 72 hours left. They did not deserve that final painful farewell, walking away knowing they would never see their sons again. The jail guards and officials who respected and liked Myuran and Andrew did not deserve, through duty, to be forced to police those final hours.\n\nThe 96 men of the firing squads did not deserve their job of sighting the beating hearts, using red laser beams, and then silencing those hearts.\n\nI did not know the six people who were executed with Myuran and Andrew that night but I had met some of their relatives and heard some of their stories. I know they all had families that loved them.\n\nBut I did know Myuran and Andrew. I was there in Bali when they were arrested, all full of swagger and bravado and smart-alec quips, full of everything except contrition. And I was there in that small town in Central Java called Cilacap on the night they were shot dead, ten years and eleven days after they were arrested.\n\nTrue, Myuran and Andrew had been convicted of heroin trafficking. They had admitted their role in attempting to bring 8.2 kilograms of heroin from Bali to Sydney. They had been found guilty of a very serious crime and one that would have brought untold misery to those who used that heroin and to their families. They deserved to be punished and severely. They knew that. They never asked to be freed. All they asked was for an acknowledgement that they had been rehabilitated and for their good deeds to matter.\n\nWhen I first met Myuran and Andrew at the Denpasar police headquarters the day after their arrest, they were brash and bold. Andrew suggested that what happened to Schapelle Corby happened to him. Back then, I was ambivalent about them. Certainly there were not many reasons to have sympathy for a group of people caught red-handed with drugs. As a crime reporter for most of my career I had seen plenty of criminals come and go, many refusing to admit guilt in the face of overwhelming evidence, lacking in any kind of contrition.\n\nBut this story turned out to be different. There was not one moment that I doubted their reformation and rehabilitation was genuine. True, the death penalty provides a powerful incentive to reform or pretend to reform. People would often ask me if I believed the transformation was genuine or an act. I did believe them. And as I got to know them better and better I became more convinced that this was real.\n\nWhen their jail projects were in their infancy and before Myuran had even picked up a paintbrush, his enthusiasm was infectious. He was so excited he couldn't stand still as he showed me around the jail workshop and computer room. He kept telling me how happy he was to have finally found something worthwhile to do in jail and how he was becoming a better person. He asked me if I agreed he was a better person. I did. Andrew was the same as he talked of helping others through his Christian ministry, giving examples of lives that had turned around and of souls that had been saved. He suggested I talk to those people to get a clearer picture of him. As he said, you can always talk yourself up but the true test is what others say about you. As the projects grew, so too did Myuran and Andrew. They became men of whom their families were proud.\n\nAs a journalist my job dictates objectivity and neutrality. I don't have to like or dislike those I write about. I just need to tell the story, accurately and honestly. Of course, it's human nature to feel compassion. And when you spend ten years covering a story like this one, it's difficult not to feel compassion. Myuran and Andrew became more than subjects on whom I was reporting.\n\nFor the first few years after their arrest and as their legal cases came and went I saw them regularly at various jail events and at court. They were still brash and not very likeable. They tolerated me but they didn't trust me. After all, I was just doing my job. For my part, I didn't care too much what they thought. It was in 2010 when I got to know them better. The jail boss had allowed me inside for several days to interview the Bali Nine and see how they were beginning to transform the jail. I spent hours with Myuran and Andrew as they showed me around and opened up to me. I was allowed into their cells, in the so-called death tower. Nothing had been off limits. They asked me to bring them McDonald's. I knew they were desperate to be portrayed as real people, doing good in the jail and I left after those visits with no doubt they were changing. They were no longer the two surly drug traffickers I first met in 2005.\n\nOver the next few years I got to know them better and I stayed in touch with them when I moved, from Indonesia to Nigeria to live in 2012\u20132014. In 2013 I came back from Nigeria to do another series of in-depth interviews with Myuran and Andrew and their families. By this time they were well and truly reformed. From that time on, I communicated regularly with them and as their executions neared, I shared many late-night conversations with them that often turned into counselling sessions. Myuran once asked my advice on making videos for his family to watch after he was dead. With every new announcement from the Indonesian side he asked my advice, he pleaded with me: did I think they were nearing the end, what should they do, how could they save themselves, how much time did they have left? I was a journalist, I wasn't trained for this, this wasn't about me, but I had promised them both I would tell their story. Many times in those last few months I hung up the phone and cried.\n\nThose final 72 hours in Cilacap were excruciating. I had to muster all my strength to hold it together. I will never forget arriving in Cilacap soon after Myuran and Andrew had been read their death warrants. I was directed into the hotel meeting room being used by the legal team and the Australian government. One of the first people I saw was lawyer Veronica Haccou. I looked at Veronica and just collapsed in her arms, sobbing and sobbing. Julian McMahon stood silently and stoically nearby. He knew everyone needed to cry at some stage, even journalists. I just couldn't believe, after all these years, Myuran and Andrew were actually going to be killed. It was like we were all in shock. I was embarrassed that the end of the story was only starting and I was already falling apart in public. Reporters just didn't do that. This wasn't about me. My grief was nothing compared to that of the families. I knew I shouldn't be showing my emotions like this but I just couldn't help it. I didn't mean to cry, it just came out in a gushing torrent. I didn't have time to try to stifle the tears as I have always done on other stories. I scrambled to find a tissue amongst the notebooks and tape recorder in my cluttered handbag. Veronica and Julian were silent. There was nothing to say.\n\nThen there was the dreadful day, the last day of Myuran and Andrew's lives, when, as the family walked through a media and police throng to get to the port to pay their last visit ever, Myuran's sister Brintha howled and cried. She had to be carried through the crowd. It was agonising to hear and watch. A police dog bit me that day. So shocked was I by its savageness that again I broke down in tears. I don't remember it, but someone reported that I was saying, 'I can't believe they are doing this.' And I couldn't. My colleague and friend, Tom Allard, to whom I will be forever grateful, consoled me. I could barely speak as I sobbed and Tom hugged me. The story had become deeply personal. Two people, who I knew so well, were about to die in the most gruesome way.\n\nWhen they did die, I stood silently at the dusty, hot and noisy Cilacap port, looking to the night sky for a few seconds as the generators whirred around me, phones rang and television reporters did live crosses to Australia and Jakarta and the world. I had no words, just disbelief and a deep, overwhelming sadness, a kind of sadness I still can't adequately put into words. But I can feel it, I can taste it, every time I think about that dreadful night. My Balinese assistant, Komang Erviani, who had been by my side on this journey for so many years, was crying. She was on the phone to Mary Jane Fiesta Veloso's lawyers who were over on the island in the waiting area for families and officials. They were telling her how the authorities had cruelly let Mary Jane's sisters believe, as they heard the shots fired, that she too was dead.\n\nMyuran's brother Chinthu called me from the hotel in town where the Australian families were huddled together, praying and waiting for news. He begged me to tell him, his voice cracking, was it over, was I sure they were dead? I have to tell Mum, I have to be sure before I tell my family. Is it true that Mary Jane was spared? Maybe Myuran was saved too? They are gone, I told him. I knew they were gone. I didn't know what else to say. There was nothing left to say.\n\nIt was wrong. The death penalty is abhorrent. Myuran and Andrew were reformed, and killing them was so utterly pointless. By shooting them, Indonesia lost the best anti-drugs ambassadors they could have ever had.\n\nThe outpouring of public support for them in Australia in those final days of their lives was amazing. So many people were galvanised to action, calling for an end to the death penalty, attending vigils and lighting candles. Their legacy demands that we continue that fight, here and now, and not wait until the next Australian is on death row overseas and about to be killed. The Pastor and the Painter wanted everyone who cared so much about them to keep fighting. I promised both of them I would do that. This is their story and the story of those who worked so hard to save them.\n\n# 1.\n\n# BUSTED\n\nSomething was bothering Raji Sukumaran. Her hair was still wet from the shower when she went out into the street, outside her home in Auburn, in Sydney's west, hoping to see an approaching taxi. Myuran had gone on holiday to Bali but he should have been back. It was about 5.30 p.m. on 18 April 2005, the day after his 24th birthday.\n\nRaji had bought seafood from the market and cleaned it before putting it in to the freezer. She planned to serve it for her son Myuran's birthday lunch or dinner. The family always had a special meal when it was a birthday. And seafood was Myuran's favourite. Raji loved cooking it for him.\n\nEarlier that day Raji had gone to the shopping centre with her sister and her sister's children. Raji's daughter, Brintha, had a university exam. Raji felt down but didn't know why. When she got home, Myuran was not there. Perhaps his flight was arriving in the evening? Raji had made up his bed with fresh linen and cleaned his room. She had folded his clothes and left them on the bed for him. She knew he liked to put them away himself.\n\nWhen Brintha had got home at 5 p.m. she was keen to know if her big brother was back yet. No, her mum said. Brintha was disappointed.\n\nOutside in the street, her hair wet, Raji couldn't stop thinking how odd this was. Could he have been in a plane crash, or a car accident? No, it wasn't time to panic yet. She should go back inside and dry her hair.\n\nThe front door was locked. That was strange \u2013 she hadn't locked the door when she'd come out. She knocked again and again but no one answered. She started to worry. The family's dog started barking from the other side of the door, which at last was opening.\n\nRaji saw Brintha's scared face. She was shivering as she reached out and pulled her mother inside. Raji started shaking her, wanting to know what was going on.\n\nBrintha could barely speak. She stood there shaking. 'Myu, Myu, Mum, Bali, Myu, Bali, arrested...' It was all she could get out.\n\nA chill ran through Raji's body as the words sank in. Immediately she fainted, collapsing to the floor in a heap.\n\nBrintha had been watching the television news. The lead story was about nine Australians arrested in Bali. Brintha recognised her brother's T-shirt \u2013 and there was no mistaking the distinctive tattoo sticking out from under his sleeve. It was Myuran, no question.\n\nAs Raji dragged herself up from the floor, her younger son, Chinthu, appeared. At the same moment the phone started ringing: it was the Australian Consul-General's office in Bali. They asked to speak to Chinthu. He went upstairs to take the call, not wanting to talk in front of his mother and sister before he found out what was going on.\n\nAt that moment he knew only snippets: he had heard about nine Australians being arrested in Bali on the car radio as he drove home. The consular officer told Chinthu that his elder brother had been arrested on drugs charges, an offence that could send him to jail for at least ten years.\n\nRaji was stunned. She called her parents, and her brothers and sisters. They all rushed over. They cried, prayed and tried to comfort each other. They knew very little except that Myuran had been arrested and was locked up in a police jail. He could get ten years in prison! Raji couldn't believe it. 'What are we going to do for ten years?' she begged Chinthu. 'We have to visit him.'\n\nWith the news now out, media started arriving at the Sukumaran house. The family had to get out of there. At 2 a.m. they grabbed some clothes and went to Raji's sister's home. Raji's head was still reeling. She didn't know a single person in jail. She didn't even know anyone who knew someone in jail. Her son lived at home with her and the rest of the family and she never had any reason to suspect that he was involved in drugs.\n\nOn that same evening, about ten kilometres away in Enfield, Helen Chan was in shock. Her hands trembled as she dialled her eldest son's number. Michael was in the middle of doing his grocery shopping. 'Your brother's in trouble,' Helen told him. All Helen knew was that Andrew was overseas and appeared to have been arrested. She and her husband, Ken, hadn't even known Andrew was overseas. By the time Michael rushed to the family home, everyone was in hysterics, desperately trying to work out what was going on. Michael left the next day for Bali.\n\nOver the course of a couple of hours that day, nine families across Australia \u2013 most of whom had never met and had no clue their children were friends, let alone that they were all in Bali together \u2013 were learning about the arrests. In most cases they found out from the media, and soon after received consular calls.\n\nThe first letter was written on 8 April 2005. Addressed to the Bali police chief, I Made Mangku Pastika, and copied to the intelligence director, the narcotics director and the director of criminal investigation in Bali and Interpol Jakarta, it was written by the Australian Federal Police's liaison officer in Bali. It had been translated into Indonesian and contained an extraordinary amount of detail about what nine young Australians were planning to do in Bali.\n\nTwo days before the letter was sent, four suspected heroin couriers had flown from Sydney to Bali: Renae Lawrence (27), Matthew Norman (18), Martin Stephens (29) and Si Yi Chen (20). Another three were due to arrive that day: Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen (21), Michael Czugaj (19) and Scott Rush (19). Andrew Chan was already there. He had flown in on 3 April. What was not in the AFP letter was the fact that Myuran Sukumaran was also flying to Bali on 8 April. At this stage, he was not on the AFP's radar at all.\n\nThe AFP officers did know, however, that the plan was for the couriers to fly back to Australia on 15 April with heroin strapped to their bodies. They also knew that the couriers would be given baggy clothes to wear, told not to carry any metal and to wear sandals so they would not alert airport scanners; they should also have some souvenir Bali wooden objects with them to declare. They would be told not to smoke leading up to the trip, to ensure they did not appear nervous when the crunch time came and they had to pass security while strapped with heroin.\n\nThe point of the AFP's letter was to ask the Indonesian police to conduct surveillance on the eight Australians in Bali: to find the source of the drugs they were to carry, and gather as much intel as possible to catch those higher up the chain. The letter asked the Indonesians to take whatever action they deemed appropriate. It didn't specifically request the arrest of the eight young people, but it was hard to imagine that the Indonesian police would ignore the chance to do so.\n\nA second AFP letter, written on 12 April, provided details about the group's planned return to Australia. Andrew Chan and four couriers \u2013 Lawrence, Norman, Stephens and Chen \u2013 would fly home on 14 April. Two days later, Rush, Nguyen and Czugaj would follow. The letter suggested that if some of them were arrested on 14 April, the other three would likely become suspicious and abort their mission. The AFP requested that Nguyen, Czugaj and Rush be searched soon after the first group was stopped.\n\nIt was Wednesday, 13 April when Bali police intelligence and narcotics police met at the Hard Rock Hotel to arrange a plan for surveilling the Australians. It was a big job and their resources were relatively limited. Two officers checked into the White Rose Hotel in Kuta. Across the corridor, in Room 1022, were Si Yi Chen and Matthew Norman. Two other officers headed to the Aneka Beach Hotel, where Scott Rush and Michael Czugaj were in Room 404. They watched and followed the young men as they went for a day's rafting trip to Ubud, and later met up with other members of the gang \u2013 including someone to whom the surveillance team referred as 'the black-skinned man'. This was Myuran. He was staying at the Hard Rock Hotel with Andrew; the pair always seemed to be together. The surveillance team at the Hard Rock was finding it difficult to get any information on Andrew; he had instructed the front desk staff not to reveal his identity or presence there to anybody.\n\nThe surveillance team log noted that on Friday, 15 April, at 9 p.m., Andrew Chan walked from the Hard Rock Hotel to the Seaview Cottage. He was there for just ten minutes, then went back to the Hard Rock. At 2.45 a.m. on Saturday, 16 April, Andrew and Myuran left their hotel, carrying two suitcases to a small hotel in Kuta called the Plamboyan. At 3.15 a.m. they arrived back at the Hard Rock without the suitcases. At 7.40 a.m. they went back to the Plamboyan and emerged with two suitcases. This was the handover of the heroin.\n\nWhen Andrew went to the Sea View Cottage, it was to meet the woman who was supplying the gear. Cherry Likit Bannakorn, a 22-year-old Thai woman, had flown in from Thailand with the drugs, and Andrew had gone to her hotel. The surveillance team, however, had not seen this meeting or even laid eyes on Cherry. The all-important drug handover had been done without them having a clue. It was Cherry's second trip to Bali, and her second meeting with Andrew. The first time she met him had been before the Indonesian surveillance started.\n\nFor days the surveillance crews watched the comings and goings of the group, to and from their various hotels. On the final day the Australians converged at the Adi Dharma Hotel. Rush and Czugaj checked out of their hotel and went to Nguyen's room at the Adi Dharma. Norman was already there. Andrew and Myuran arrived with a suitcase and set about strapping the heroin to the bodies of Rush and Czugaj. A little later, in a different room of the same hotel, they did the same with Lawrence and Stephens.\n\nThe plastic packages of heroin, strapped to each thigh and around the waist, were secured with a good amount of tape and bandaging. Pepper was used to disguise the smell. The configuration of mules going back to Australia with the heroin was different from what the AFP had outlined in its letter, but the modus operandi was the same. There had also been a delay in the dates of their return: there had not been sufficient heroin, so the group had to wait for more to be transported to Bali.\n\nRush and Czugaj, both from Brisbane, got into a taxi and headed to the airport. So too did Stephens and Lawrence, from New South Wales. The mules were carrying some 8.2 kilograms of heroin between them. The two groups had been kept apart in Bali: there was no need for them to meet \u2013 ever, if all went to plan.\n\nAndrew got into his own taxi and also headed to the airport, giving the driver a hefty tip at the end. He was jovial and at ease. They all checked in for their flights, passing the first wave of security without problem. Andrew wasn't carrying any drugs. He did have a big wooden fish and what was described by police as a voodoo stick. (Years later, he told me there was no particular reason he had these objects; he said he just liked the stick and bought it.)\n\nThe five young Australians' journey to the airport had been monitored. When the mules and Chan had checked in and were in the departure area, police pounced. Chan had been sitting in a chair reading a Michael Moore book, waiting to board his flight. The four mules were taken away, and within minutes the drugs had been uncovered.\n\nBack in Kuta, the Indonesian police did exactly as their AFP counterparts had asked and intercepted those not catching that night's flight. Chen, Norman and Nguyen were all in a room at the Melasti Beach Bungalows, in the heart of Kuta, when a knock on the door ended their hopes of heading out on the town to celebrate Myuran's 24th birthday. Myuran was outside the door when police struck. All were placed under arrest. Two plastic bags, containing 334.26 grams of heroin, were found in the Australians' luggage, along with pepper, rubber gloves, medical tape, adhesive tape and cloth tape. They were busted.\n\nStill wearing oversized shirts with flower motifs, which they had bought at the markets for barely nothing, the group found themselves the next day at police headquarters in Denpasar. Before long, word spread that nine Australians had been arrested at the airport with drugs. The arrested young people cowered in the offices and holding rooms of the drug police, attempting to cover their faces as the media tried to get photographs.\n\nAndrew was led out into the car park area, taken from one building to another. 'Whatever happened to Schapelle Corby happened to me,' he declared boldly. Under questioning, he and Myuran had provided little assistance to the investigators, denying any knowledge of the drugs. Of more assistance was Renae Lawrence, whose lawyer encouraged her to tell the truth; doing so was a better bet than clamming up and saying nothing, she was advised. At least it would mean a discount on her sentence.\n\nIt emerged that this was not Renae and Andrew's first drug run from Bali. The previous October, with several others, they had succeeded in taking heroin to Australia. Another trip had been planned in December 2004 but had not gone ahead, possibly due to a lack of heroin.\n\nAlmost from the moment of their arrest the group was dubbed the 'Bali Nine'. Three were from Queensland and the rest from New South Wales, although some were meeting for the first time at the Denpasar police headquarters. Myuran and Andrew had both attended Homebush Boys High School but had barely known each other at school. Myuran was older. It was not until 2002 that the pair became friendly, meeting through friends of friends at a mate's house. Andrew had worked with three of the others \u2013 Renae Lawrence, Martin Stephens and Matthew Norman \u2013 at a catering company that serviced the Sydney Cricket Ground. Si Yi Chen and Matthew Norman had been friends, as had Scott Rush and Michael Czugaj, from Brisbane. They became involved in the drug run through Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen.\n\nRaji Sukumaran went into the room where her son was being held. She couldn't believe what was happening; it felt like some kind of dream. It was now several days after the arrests, and she and the family had flown to Bali.\n\nShe looked Myuran in the eye but he couldn't bear to return her gaze. He looked away, sneaking glances at his mother when he thought she wasn't looking.\n\nRaji was angry: all she wanted to do was slap her son. But she couldn't. Instead, she hugged him. And she cried, breaking down.\n\n'Don't worry, Ma, don't cry,' Myuran kept telling his mother.\n\nKen and Helen Chan didn't travel to Bali immediately. They were not well, and it was decided that Michael would go. He ended up spending the best part of a year in Bali. He would fly over, stay 28 days until his visa was due to expire, come home and then go back.\n\nAndrew's parents felt ashamed and embarrassed. Helen couldn't accept what her son had done. She couldn't sleep. It took her a long time to come to terms with her son's crime. To Ken, it felt like a bomb had exploded when Andrew was first arrested. He was shocked. Only 16 months earlier he had finally retired after 40 years in the restaurant business. The couple had barely had time to enjoy their retirement, and now their lives had been turned upside down.\n\n# 2.\n\n# HUKUMAN MATI\n\nWhen the time came for the nine young drug traffickers to move from the various police holding cells to Bali's Kerobokan jail, three months had passed. During that time both Myuran and Andrew had been kept separated from the others, in the holding cells of two different police stations \u2013 Myuran at the Benoa water police base and Andrew at the Sanur police station. The facilities at Benoa were dreadful; Myuran barely saw the sunlight and was on his own for much of the time. At Sanur, Andrew at least had the company of local prisoners.\n\nThe separation had been a deliberate investigation ploy on behalf of Bali's drug squad. The police had only a limited time to investigate the case and get it ready to be handed over to the prosecutors in a process known as P21. During the three months the briefs of evidence went backwards and forwards between police and prosecutors, prosecutors asking for more information, until it was deemed complete. Then, once it was ready for court, the Bali Nine all moved to the infamous Kerobokan jail. Some of them, particularly the younger members of the group, were scared and they looked it. They were about to enter a place they had only heard about.\n\nBy this time Kerobokan jail was well known in Australia. Eight months earlier its most famous Australian prisoner, Schapelle Corby, had taken up residence there.\n\nThere was no doubting the Bali Nine crew knew all about Schapelle and her plight. After all, Andrew had even suggested, in the hours after his arrest, that he was walking the same road as the young Gold Coast beauty-therapy student. Kerobokan prison had become a tourist attraction since Corby got there. Daily, Australian tourists in Bali flocked to the jail, bearing armloads of goodies and the cosmetics they heard she loved. They all sought an audience with her and, after paying the requisite 5000 Rupiah to the guards at the front, were allowed in during visiting hours. In those early days, no one ever really knew what the 5000 Rupiah was for. It was just the way it was. Corby would see almost anyone who came to visit. She was a celebrity, and tourists wanted a story to take home.\n\nMyuran and Andrew both hired the same legal team, led by local lawyer Muhammad Rifan and assisted by Australian expatriate lawyer Peter Johnson. Myuran and Andrew would be tried separately as would each of the four mules caught with the drugs on them. The four mules each had their own legal team. The other three, arrested at the Melasti Beach Bungalows, would face a joint trial, all three represented by the same team of lawyers.\n\nThe trials kicked off in mid October 2005, with prosecutors outlining the case against each of the nine, followed by a series of police witnesses who told of the AFP letter, the surveillance, the arrests and the interrogations. With the trials sitting only one or two days a week, they dragged on. What everyone was waiting for was the testimony of each of the nine, to hear what they were going to say in their own defence and about the others. Both Myuran and Andrew adopted the same strategy \u2013 deny everything.\n\nIt was January of 2006 when Myuran was finally called to testify at his own trial. He spoke softly. His voice seemed at odds with his shaved head and the picture police had painted of the kingpin of this heroin smuggling gang.\n\nHe told the judges he had come to Bali for a holiday but had no business with Andrew. What did you do in Bali? 'Just tourist things like shopping, restaurants, to bars drinking.' He didn't strap anything to Renae Lawrence and Martin Stephens, he said, nor did he ever have anything to do with heroin. What about the statements from the mules, that he had strapped heroin to their bodies? 'I did not do that, what they said.' He admitted that he knew Andrew from school, but denied knowing some of the others.\n\nTo many questions, he claimed not to know the answer. It became ridiculous. He told the judges he couldn't remember what kind of mobile phone he had at the time. They had had enough. 'Have you ever had the disease of amnesia?' 'Sorry,' Myuran said. 'Loss of memory, forgetting things,' the chief judge said. Myuran now had an explanation. 'Ah, amnesia. I have once, it's so long ago I can't remember. It was more than eight months ago.' The judges were not impressed. 'So, you have forgotten everything, then?' Myuran mumbled something about being under a lot of stress. He ended his testimony, telling the judges he was not guilty.\n\nA week later Myuran was back in court, this time called upon to testify as a witness at Andrew's trial. He was having none of it. Three times he repeated the same thing. 'I don't want to make a statement because I am the same suspect in the same case.' The judge warned him that if someone told him to take an objection or refuse to give a statement it was wrong. Myuran stonewalled. 'I don't know about that.' And that was it. He said no more. Neither did the other three arrested with him \u2013 Matthew Norman, Si Yi Chen and Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen \u2013 who gave the same objection. It went on like that, each time a case came to court. Myuran and Andrew kept opting not to give evidence, despite the increasingly angry judicial admonishments. It was not boding well.\n\nMore than ever the divisions between the group were being laid bare. When Myuran and Andrew were called to testify as witnesses at Renae Lawrence's trial the air was thick with contempt. 'I'm not sitting with Andrew and Myuran and that. Tidak mau,' Lawrence told the judges, using the Indonesian words for 'don't want'.\n\nShe sat with her lawyers, at the bar table, to ensure she did not come into contact with the others. By this time the judges were resigned to hear yet another refusal to testify.\n\nWhen Andrew told the judges he was not willing to be a witness in Renae's trial, they sighed, telling him his initial police statement, after his arrest, would therefore be read to court. It was not true, he said, that he had threatened to kill Renae or her family if she didn't carry heroin. He had only come, with Myuran, to the room at the hotel where the heroin was strapped to the mules to lie down on the bed and watch TV and had only stayed there 45 minutes to an hour. Renae was angry. Asked her response to Chan's statement, she was blunt. 'Bohong,' she said, Indonesian for lies.\n\nAndrew was insolent. The judges persisted. 'Did he understand why he had been arrested?' 'No.' 'Do you mean the police of Indonesia have arrested the wrong person?' 'I don't know.' 'Do you know about a narcotic case called the Bali Nine?' 'I dunno.' 'Did you report to the Government of Australia that you were detained and arrested at the airport illegally?' 'I don't remember.' 'Didn't the Government of Australia object to the detention of its citizen in Indonesia?' 'I dunno.' 'Do you want to revoke your statement given to the police?' 'No, I don't want to make a statement.' 'Can you explain why you don't want to give a statement?' 'Um, I'm in the same case, so no, that's why.' 'Can you explain what case you mean?' 'I don't know.' 'At the time you said you are healthy, physically and mentally, in the police station.' 'Yer.'\n\nIt was becoming more than ridiculous. It was the same story when Myuran was called to testify. He didn't want to give evidence. His initial police statement was read to the court. Renae said this too was lies.\n\nRenae, giving evidence at Andrew's trial, painted a very different picture.\n\nWhen she arrived in Bali she met Andrew and was given a list of dos and don'ts. Don't use the mobile phone to call Australia, don't leave the hotel. 'There was a lot of don'ts: don't do this, don't do that, don't use my phone, he told me when to call my mum and when not to call my mum, he told me not to tell anyone.' Andrew had told her to come to Bali to do something for him but she and Martin Stephens had not known what it was.\n\nThings then got tricky. The judges wanted to know if Renae had come to Bali before, in October 2004, with Andrew and others. They were clearly referring to her earlier police statements. She said she needed to go to the toilet.\n\nPressed, she said she had been to Bali before, on holiday, and had met others of the Bali Nine. Eventually, after much to and fro with the judges, Renae Lawrence withdrew her earlier police statements.\n\nIt became very tangled up. Martin Stephens too was a damning witness at Andrew's trial. It was Andrew who had told him to come to Bali and do as he was told or his family would be hurt or killed. The threats, Martin said, had been made at Andrew's home two weeks before the Bali trip. Martin said he had been offered no reward to come to Bali and carry a package. So why did he do it, the judges wanted to know. 'Coz I had no choice. Coz my family, my mum, my dad and my life was at stake. I celebrated my birthday in the hotel room on April 13 coz I wasn't allowed to go anywhere. So if I was here for a holiday don't you think I would go out and party? But I didn't, we weren't allowed.' Andrew had organised the whole trip.\n\nFor his part, Andrew said it wasn't true before being called to testify in his own defence.\n\nIt didn't get any better. No, he didn't meet Myuran at the Hard Rock Hotel (where both were staying) and didn't know Myuran as a friend. This was despite police surveillance photographs, taken by Bali police and part of the police brief of evidence, showing the two of them together.\n\nBy Andrew's version, he was in Bali to go shopping, clubbing, eating, scuba diving, that kind of thing. He had never met any of the witnesses, the other Bali Nine members, who had testified against him. The judges were not convinced. A rooster crowed loudly. Court staff, who then lived within the court complex, kept roosters in cages for use in cock-fighting and as pets.\n\nA judge raised his voice above the restless rooster. 'You said before that you have never seen, you never met with the witnesses that sit here before, all of the witnesses. Just try to remember, have you ever met with them in Australia?' Andrew was unequivocal. 'I have never met them in Australia, no.'\n\nWhat about Myuran, did you know him? 'Ah, no.' Renae Lawrence? 'I didn't know her, I have seen her around at work, I have seen her but I have never talked to her, coz it's a big company.' Martin Stephens? 'No, it's the same.'\n\nThe judges pressed on. 'Why were you arrested,' they asked him. 'I don't know, I asked the customs officer and they wouldn't tell me. I asked the customs and there was police there.' 'So have you ever been investigated at the police station?' 'I have been questioned but I don't know if it was investigated, like typed up something, I have been questioned but other than that I don't know if it was typed.' It must have been typed since he had signed it.\n\n'So, what about all the witnesses who claimed that Andrew had strapped packages on their bodies,' the judges wanted to know. 'You deny it? Which one is the truth?' 'Um, I never strapped any heroin on their bodies ever in my life.' He denied knowing Renae, Scott Rush, Martin or Michael Czugaj.\n\n'So, as far as you know all of the witnesses are liars?' 'Are liars? From what I believe yes, from what I've heard, yes.' The judges were becoming annoyed now.\n\n'How do you know they are liars, you don't know them, how?' Andrew charged on. 'Well, no, they are saying that they know me but I don't know them.' The judges had had enough and told Andrew as much. 'Please don't tell the wrong story or lies because the judges, the lawyers, the prosecutor, all the people here are not stupid.'\n\nAnd to make sure that Andrew knew where he stood, the judge instructed the female translator to tell Andrew not to lie to the judges, the lawyers and prosecutors. 'Indonesian judges are not stupid people but we are the people who know the truth, tell him.'\n\nAndrew was not the least bit perturbed. 'Yer, I know they are civilised people and I'm telling the truth.' The judges wanted Andrew to understand that all the other witnesses against him would only make his punishment more severe. 'Um, yer I obviously do,' he replied.\n\nTell the truth, who owns the packages of heroin? 'I don't know, I don't even know who owns it.' Okay, so does it belong to Renae, Scott or someone else? 'I don't know, I've never seen it until they showed me at Polda (police headquarters). They started throwing it at me, saying it's yours and I've never seen it.'\n\nOne didn't need to be a lawyer to know it wasn't a good day for Andrew. The reaction to Myuran's refusal to testify and stonewall was no better.\n\nThe pair later said that their refusal to testify, and their constant denial that they had any knowledge of anything, had been on the advice of their first legal team. The approach did not serve them well, in a legal system that places a great deal of emphasis on co-operation, on courtesy and politeness in court and on admissions of guilt and expressions of remorse. The prosecution, when it came time for the closing submissions, saw no reason for leniency for either Myuran or Andrew.\n\nSentence them both to death, they told the judges. Chan smirked. The translator asked him if he knew what the words _hukuman mati_ meant. 'Yes, death penalty, no problem.'\n\nMyuran's and Andrew's lawyers originally believed that both would be given life sentences. But by verdict day, on 14 February 2006, something was going wrong. The lawyers heard, through the judicial grapevine, that both men were going to be given the death penalty that day.\n\nFrantic calls were made to Kerobokan. 'Don't come to court,' the lawyers advised their clients. 'Feign illness, do whatever you can think of, but do not come to court. You are going to get the death penalty.' The lawyers needed time to work out what was going on; once the death penalty was handed down it would be too late.\n\nBut it was already too late. Myuran and Andrew could not avoid getting on the bus that would take them from Kerobokan prison to the court that day. They could do nothing but hope that by the time they arrived, the lawyers might have done some fast work and turned the situation around.\n\nRaji and Brintha were in Sydney, watching the live coverage on television. The Sukumaran family had decided that only Chinthu would be in Bali to attend the court that day.\n\nMichael was there to support Andrew. He and Chinthu had never met before the Bali Nine arrests. They came from different worlds, bound together only by the actions of their brothers, and in those early days they had little in common.\n\nAndrew's verdict was handed down first. A huge crowd of anti-drugs protestors was in the court. As far as they were concerned there was only one verdict that would be acceptable. They took their positions at the back of the courtroom, holding up placards. The judges read and read for what seemed like hours, before declaring Andrew guilty and sentencing him to death. It was all conducted in Indonesian.\n\nFor Myuran's verdict there was not such a lengthy reading. The judges said that the heroin brought by Myuran's and Andrew's group could have yielded 8200 victims. Myuran too was guilty, and his sentence was death.\n\nMyuran appeared calm as the verdict was read out. Andrew had already got the death penalty before him and Myuran, sitting in the court holding cell waiting for his turn, knew the same fate was stalking him. The anti-drug protestors shouted appreciation, applauding the judges. They were happy.\n\nIn different courtrooms of the Denpasar District Court that day two of the mules \u2013 Michael Czugaj and Martin Stephens \u2013 were both sentenced to life in jail.\n\nThe day before, the other two mules \u2013 Renae Lawrence and Scott Rush \u2013 had also been handed life sentences. Renae had been stunned. The prosecutors in her case had asked for a 20-year sentence, due to the assistance and information she had provided the police about the syndicate after her arrest. She had been led to believe her co-operation would serve her well. She broke down in tears, furious at the shock decision.\n\nThe judges in the cases of the four mules rejected their claims that they had been threatened by the ringleaders, saying if this was true they had had plenty of time to report this to authorities.\n\nOne day later, the remaining three \u2013 Matthew Norman, Si Yi Chen and Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen \u2013 were also sentenced to life in jail. Most indicated immediately they would appeal.\n\nRaji was sure the translation she was watching on television was in error. Why had Myuran's verdict been so much shorter than Andrew's? Surely there was some mistake and he hadn't got the death penalty after all, Raji kept thinking. Myuran was angry as he stormed out of court. Something had gone dreadfully wrong. This was not meant to happen. The full extent of what happened would not become evident for many years.\n\nChinthu was just 22 years old. Already he'd had a lot of growing up to do in a short space of time. He supported his brother, his mother and father, and his sister. Now, after the emotion of the verdict, he retreated to his hotel room. He was exhausted and fell asleep. When he woke up he had 40 missed calls on his phone.\n\nRaji, at home in Sydney, had no idea how the death penalty worked. Would they simply take Myuran away and shoot him dead? She was terrified. A friend from work told her it would be a long road. 'You have to be strong,' her friend said. 'Don't expect him to walk in tomorrow.' Still Raji was convinced Myuran would be home soon.\n\nHer eldest son loved her home-cooked food. His favourites were her crab curry and prawn curry. Once a week Raji cooked prawn curry. But for the first six months after Myu's arrest she stopped cooking altogether. The whole process was loaded with too many memories. Every time she cooked something she knew Myuran liked, she would despair at the fact that he wasn't there. Often, Raji would get out five plates at mealtimes, momentarily forgetting that Myuran was not there. And Sundays were different. Each Sunday Myuran used to make breakfast for the family. Eventually, Raji started cooking again. She realised that the rest of the family was missing out. She kept the quilt cover from Myuran's bed in a special place, intending to put it back on his bed when he came home.\n\nKen and Helen Chan were heartbroken and struggling to cope. Travelling to Bali was not easy for them, given their frailty and age. Helen suffered terribly. From the day of Andrew's arrest she struggled to get a proper night's sleep.\n\nAfter the sentence, and as Andrew began finding solace in religion, he started urging his parents to go to church too. Ken and Helen were Buddhists, but as they watched Andrew grow as a result of his religion, they started to think seriously about trying church. In 2007 they were baptised as Christians. They began attending church every weekend, and met a new community of supportive friends. It was another chapter in their changing world.\n\nIt was 1955 when a 20-year-old Ken Chan came by ship to Australia. The journey from China took 21 days. His father and brothers were already there; his father was working as a gold miner.\n\nGoing straight to Sydney, Ken started working with his brothers in a fruit shop and then the fruit markets. When he started working in a restaurant, he met the woman he would marry: Helen. Soon afterwards, the couple started their own Chinese restaurant. Like many immigrants to Australia, they worked hard, seven days a week, striving to give their children a good start in life.\n\nThe Chans had a son and two daughters by the time Andrew came along in January 1984. He was a cute kid, likeable and always willing to help anyone. As Helen remembers, he was also a bit of a larrikin, with a cheeky smile. The Chans mostly spoke Cantonese at home; their English was limited. But Andrew never became fully competent in his parents' native language, meaning there was a communication gap between him and his parents.\n\nThe Soper family lived a few doors down the street, and would become lifelong friends of the Chans. As a little boy, Andrew spent hours at their place, and even went on family holidays with them. Shelley and David Soper were both Salvation Army majors; it was through them and their children that Andrew was first introduced to religion, and he began attending services and a Christian youth group.\n\nAndrew went to Homebush Boys High School. He often joked that he was not in the least bit academic; he was a smartarse, he said. He was not academic but he was good at sport. And he admitted to some stupid choices as a young kid. For a time, Myuran Sukumaran also went to the same school. But he was older than Andrew and they didn't know one another then. They wouldn't meet again until much later on.\n\nMyuran was born in London in April 1981. His parents, Sam and Rajini, known as Raji, were Sri Lankan immigrants. As a six-week-old baby, Myuran was taken to Sri Lanka to live with his grandparents. Sam and Raji were working long hours in London, and sending him to childcare at such a young age was not possible. Two years later, Sam and Raji went back to Sri Lanka, and then took the family to Sydney.\n\nAs a little boy, Myuran loved Lego. When he grew older he loved to watch action movies and read comic books. Myuran told a forensic psychiatrist, employed to write a report for the court, that at school he had suffered racist bullying that was so bad his parents decided to move him away to a new school. He was nervous and shy, and felt isolated from his classmates. He was also a chronic asthmatic. Myuran only started to make friends in his early adolescence; many of his mates were from various ethnic backgrounds and had experienced racist abuse themselves. It was an anti-social group who truanted from school regularly. But Myuran managed to rise above it and did well enough to be accepted into university.\n\nEven as a young boy, Myuran had a strong sense of social responsibility and wanted to help others. He was keen to donate blood but was too young to do so without parental consent, so he got Raji to sign the form for him. He donated $30 a month to Unicef: on the calendar in his bedroom he circled the date each month the money was due. (For a long time after his arrest, Raji kept paying the money for him each month.)\n\nMyuran told the forensic psychiatrist that he felt isolated at university and could not cope. None of his school friends had gone on to university and he found it hard to find a new social group. The isolation led him to leave university at the end of his first year, moving into clerical jobs, for six months at a time. The work was easy but he would become bored and then quit.\n\nHe told the psychiatrist he had been painfully shy in the company of young women. After he left university he drifted back to his old school friends, many of whom were unemployed and involved in petty crime. But, he told the forensic psychiatrist, he was too anxious and law-abiding to get involved in the theft from cars and other crimes that his friends participated in.\n\nHe started doing odd jobs at clubs and dance halls, putting up posters and delivering leaflets to publicise their events. He became part of the group again. Myuran told the psychiatrist that it was through his old school friends that he first became involved in the drug trade. He was flattered the group accepted him; he felt safe and important in a way he had not done before. He knew the group's activities were illegal but had never really faced up to the potential consequences. By the time he did, it was too late.\n\nMost of the Bali Nine decided to appeal the verdicts to the next court of appeal, the Denpasar High Court. For Myuran and Andrew there was little to lose. They were already on death row. But for the others the stakes were high.\n\nAppeal courts in Indonesia can decrease or increase a sentence. They faced having their sentences upped to the death penalty. It was a chance they were willing to take. For Matthew Norman, Si Yi Chen and Tan Duc Thanh, the gamble paid off and the Denpasar High Court reduced their sentences to 20 years. It did the same for Renae Lawrence and Michael Czugaj. The judges found they had only been couriers, acting on the instructions of the masterminds. Inexplicably, Martin Stephens lost his appeal and the life sentence stood. Scott Rush had not appealed.\n\nWithin months the group appealed again, this time to Indonesia's highest court, the Supreme Court in Jakarta. The gamble was the same. Sentences could just as easily be increased.\n\nFor some, the news in September of 2006 was dreadful. Scott Rush, Matthew Norman, Si Yi Chen and Tan Duc Tanh Nguyen, all had their sentences increased to the death penalty. Michael Czugaj's 20 years was increased to life. Martin Stephens' term remained at life and Myuran and Andrew remained on death row. Renae Lawrence had not appealed and her sentence remained at 20 years.\n\nThe decisions were hard to explain. Three of the four mules had life and 20 years while Scott Rush got death. The traditional appeal process had been exhausted and all that was left was what is known as a judicial review to the Supreme Court, a review of the cases which would normally require new evidence to even get off the ground.\n\nAll nine were held in Kerobokan prison together. Renae Lawrence was in the women's block where she shared a testy friendship of sorts with Schapelle Corby. The other eight were in the men's section, all bunched together in what was known as the 'death tower' or 'super maximum security'. It was a group of cells together, located underneath an old water tower near the front entrance, and dubbed the death tower due to its previous occupants, the three Bali bombers, who had been sentenced to death for orchestrating the 2002 Bali nightclub bombings. The bombers \u2013 Amrozi, his older brother Mukhlas and Imam Samudra \u2013 had been held there from shortly before their trials in 2003 until October 2005, before they were moved to Nusakanbangan prison island, off the coast of Central Java ahead of their executions four years later.\n\nThe Bali Nine moved around in the different cells, depending on personal differences, of which there were many. The evidence given in court against Myuran and Andrew by some of the mules did not help relations. The blame game was on. Some blamed others for their sentences. Some blamed legal advice.\n\nAfter the appeals Myuran slumped into depression. He was angry and down on the world all the time. He found little to smile about. He had a quick temper and a fist to match. Others found solace in the ready supply of drugs inside the jail, drowning their sorrows in a drug-induced haze day after day. The eight men fought and bickered amongst themselves constantly. Andrew was a much more jovial personality, always quick with a one-liner. The other prisoners thought he was funny. For Myuran and Andrew, something needed to change.\n\nMelbourne barristers Lex Lasry QC and Julian McMahon, along with a group from Melbourne's legal fraternity, first got involved in Myuran and Andrew's case on a pro bono basis in 2006, about the time that the last Supreme Court appeal confirmed their death sentences. In December of the year before, the two men had been in Singapore when their client, Melbourne man Van Nguyen, was executed by hanging after being arrested with 396 grams of heroin. They had fought his case and against the death penalty for years. Now they were taking on another death penalty case.\n\nMyuran and Andrew dispensed with their previous legal team and embraced the Melbourne lawyers. On board with them was respected Jakarta lawyer and human rights activist Todung Mulya Lubis. Julian had asked people in a number of countries who the best lawyer in Indonesia was and who would be willing to take on a case like Myuran's and Andrew's. All of them said Todung Mulya Lubis. Deciding to take on the case had not been an easy decision for the charming and affable Mulya, as he was known, who was well connected in Jakarta society. He knew it would not make him friends and would see him railing against those in powerful political circles. He had been there before \u2013 representing _Time_ magazine in a defamation suit brought by the Suharto family. It took him a month to decide to take the Australians' case.\n\n# 3.\n\n# FROM DRUGS TO JESUS\n\nEverything has a price in jail. You want 1 kilogram of marijuana brought in? That's about Rp 3 million, or around $300. Heroin costs more: about Rp 5 million for a kilogram. That's not the cost of buying it. That's the cost of paying a jail guard to bring the drugs into the jail for you. At least, that's what it cost back in the early 2000s, when Matius Arif Mirdjaja was a drug dealer operating with impunity inside Kerobokan prison.\n\nArif, as everyone calls him, had a bright future. He studied law in Bali and got his degree. In 1997 and 1998 he was arrested for subversion for his involvement in the widespread student protests of the time calling for the ousting of President Suharto. Indonesia was in a period of upheaval, and its students had found their voice. Arif was jailed for three months for his first offence in Jakarta. The next year, in Bali, he got six months.\n\nThe drugs had started before then. He began using when he was a student on campus, about 1995 or 1996. He was studying philosophy, learning about revolution as he worked towards his law degree. Students were afraid of the regime, and selling drugs and running illegal lotteries were lucrative ways to finance the protest movement. In 1999 Arif found himself in East Timor, working for the United Nations during the region's historic independence referendum, in which the East Timorese voted overwhelmingly to separate from Indonesia.\n\nWithin a couple of years, though, Arif was back in jail for selling and using drugs: in 2002, 2004 and again in 2006. This time he decided to pay Rp 150 million for a light sentence. He shelled out another Rp 5 million for a doctor to testify in court that he was rehabilitated. In fact, he'd never met the doctor who testified on his behalf. Arif's case was not unusual. Everyone knew that was how it worked: if you had the money, justice was for sale.\n\nDuring his 2006 term in Kerobokan prison, Arif met Andrew. They lived in different worlds, though, and he had little to do with the Australian. At the time Arif considered himself a businessman. He was making about $4000 a month selling drugs, both inside and outside the jail. He had seven people working for him on the outside. The guards would bring the heroin in for him, he would cut it into straws, and when he got an order Arif would tell his man where to drop the drugs. He would then instruct the buyer where it was: 'Walk five metres from the traffic lights and turn left...' When the buyer turned up, Arif's man would watch from nearby. If customers tried to claim the drugs weren't there, they were caught out.\n\nArif himself was using \u2013 heavily. It took nine straws of heroin a day to feed his own habit. Kerobokan was his safe haven: it was guarded 24 hours a day, there were no police inside, and with the guards paid off he was in no danger of being arrested. Generally, if a police raid was planned, they got ample notice of it beforehand to get rid of the gear.\n\nLizzie Love wasn't a woman to be messed with. She had started her working life as a schoolteacher at a migrant school in Australia and had been living in Bali since June 2003. Lizzie had a good knowledge of how things worked, and understood the Balinese culture. She first went to Kerobokan jail in 2007 with a group from the Bali International Women's Association, which had organised a dentist to see female prisoners. One of the first prisoners she met was Renae Lawrence. Lizzie asked what she could do to help.\n\nRenae said she and the other sentenced prisoners were okay, but the new arrivals were sleeping on concrete and had little more than a sarong.\n\nLizzie asked Renae to count how many prisoners were sleeping like that. Later, she was out shopping for a single bed for her house. She saw a pile of mattresses. 'How much are they?' she asked the shopkeeper. The answer: Rp 150,000 each. 'I'll take 27 of them,' she said \u2013 the number Renae had reported back to her. The 27 mattresses were delivered to Lizzie's home. Next she priced pillows and blankets, before putting out a call to her network for donations to pay for it all.\n\nWhen the mattresses arrived at the jail, the Australian prisoners helped bring them in. They showed Lizzie the jail medical clinic and the other facilities they had.\n\nLizzie walked beside Myuran. 'Don't get me wrong,' she told him, 'but I'm old, and I can't remember how to say your name.'\n\n'Just call me Myu,' he replied.\n\nShe asked how to spell his name so she could google him.\n\n'Oh, God, don't do that,' he warned her. 'They've said terrible things about me.'\n\nLizzie suggested that they make a deal, there and then. 'How about our relationship starts here, right now?'\n\nMyuran was thinking aloud. 'You're just going to turn out like the rest,' he told her. 'You do a documentary about yourself and then leave. It's a bit like getting a divorce and nobody tells you why.'\n\nLizzie knew he was serious, and it got to her. She hadn't yet decided if she was going to commit to helping at the men's block, and she told Myuran that if she gave her word, then she would return. She continued helping out at the jail after that in the women's block. Every week she went in to help run cooking classes, reflexology, sewing and pattern-making classes.\n\nOnce he committed to their case, Julian McMahon sat down with Myuran and Andrew in jail. They verged on being cocky, not really understanding or grasping the reality of their situation.\n\nJulian told them they had to look into themselves and face up to how stupid they had been. It was a tough love speech. They had to grow up and behave like men if they were going to cope in prison in a meaningful way. They had to prove themselves as worthy of some kind of mercy or re-sentence.\n\nThere was one conversation that struck a chord with Myuran. You have to choose the dark or the light in the way that you live, Julian told him. From 2006 to 2007 Julian had a series of similar conversations with both of them. At one stage he put a lot of pressure on Myuran to embrace the fact that he had the capacity and almost the standing to lead the community that he was in. He had to take positive and concrete steps and decisions to make the transition into being someone worthy of being a leader.\n\nJulian and the other lawyers watched as Myu made those decisions. It wasn't just Julian. It wasn't his project alone. It was a group effort from a team of committed and passionate lawyers, who donated their time free of charge, to fight for Myuran and Andrew. Some of the other lawyers too were impressing on them the seriousness of their situation, in long and profound conversations.\n\nFor the first time since they had been arrested Myuran and Andrew were beginning to have a purpose. Changing the way they lived in Kerobokan wasn't easy. They were surrounded by the worst of humanity 24 hours a day. Only those who have been there know just how soul-destroying that can be when you have already been told by the state that your life is worth nothing.\n\nThe new legal team embarked on a bold action, lodging an appeal against the death penalty with Indonesia's new Constitutional Court, which then was still in its embryonic stages and finding its place in Indonesia's legal hierarchy. Lawyers for Scott Rush also filed the same appeal. Their argument was that the death penalty was in contravention of the right to life that was enshrined in the Indonesian Constitution. They pointed out that Indonesia had ratified the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (ICCPR), which states: 'Every human being has the inherent right to life. This right shall be protected by law. No one shall be arbitrarily deprived of his life.' The ICCPR did give leeway for capital punishment, for the most serious of crimes, particularly crimes of genocide. But Indonesia had yet to ratify the Second Optional Protocol that expressly forbids capital punishment. The legal team called a host of world-renowned experts to testify on the matter.\n\nThe Indonesian Attorney-General, in opposing the petition, argued that narcotics crimes were within the category of the most serious crime because narcotics threatened security and national stability, disturbed social and economic institutions, and narcotics crime indirectly caused the death of its victims. The National Narcotics Board argued before the court that narcotics were within the most serious category of crime. Narcotics criminals, they argued, vanished the right to life of their victims.\n\nMyuran's and Andrew's legal team had their work cut out for them \u2013 and it was definitely going to take a strong team effort to fight for the lives of the two Australians. They needed the right people.\n\nSolicitor Veronica Haccou, from north eastern Victoria, read an advertisement in a Law Institute of Victoria publication. It sought an Indonesian speaking Australian lawyer. She sent an email, offering herself. It was 28 May 2007. Born in Indonesia, Veronica had studied in Australia and stayed, establishing a life and career for herself. She was exactly what the team representing Myuran and Andrew wanted \u2013 a native Indonesian speaker who could navigate the Indonesian legal system and who could understand the intricacies of Indonesian society and the language. Veronica became an indispensable member of the legal team, sometimes working for 40 hours straight translating documents and providing legal counsel. She stayed in the background, at least publicly, shunning media attention. She was a private person and one whom Myuran and Andrew respected greatly and trusted implicitly. In the years that followed, when they spoke of her it was always with great respect and fondness.\n\nFellow solicitor Joel Blackwell had earlier worked closely with Julian on the case. He had lived in Indonesia as a teenager, spoke Indonesian and conversed with the jail guards using local slang, something they loved. But when he left private practice to work for the government, he had, for practical reasons, to leave the case. He hadn't wanted to, but Julian didn't want his future career prospects inhibited by his involvement. Lex Lasry left the team in October 2007 when he was appointed a judge on the Victorian Supreme Court. The core legal team also consisted of Melbourne silks Michael O'Connell SC (now a Victorian County Court Judge) and Peter Morrissey SC, and solicitors Alex Wilson and Megan Tittensor, barristers Scott Johns and Tony Trood. They worked as a collective on the major tasks. At least four or five others also assisted from time to time with particular issues. In Sydney, barristers Peter Strain and Christopher Ward SC also worked with the team, assisting with family liaison and international law. In addition, ten to 15 law students and young lawyers helped with translation, drafting documents and analysis.\n\nIt was 30 October 2007 when the Constitutional Court, with Chief Judge Jimly Asshiddiqie at the helm, convened to deliver its decision on the constitutionality of the death penalty. Death penalty opponents hoped against hope that the court would be brave and bold enough, in Indonesia's anti-abolitionist political environment, to rule for change. It didn't. In a six to three majority, the court ruled that the death penalty was constitutional.\n\nIt was a crushing blow to Myuran and Andrew and the legal team. But some tiny steps had been gained. The judgement suggested that the country's Criminal Code be amended so that death row prisoners, after a ten-year period of good behaviour, could have their death sentences commuted to life or 20 years in jail.\n\nJudge Asshiddiqie would later reveal that he actually agreed with the minority, to abolish the death penalty for drug crime, but as the Chief Judge had sided with the majority to give the judgment legitimacy; he saw that as the role of the chief. Had he gone the other way the decision would have been five to four and things may have been very different in the death penalty debate. Change was so close but so far away.\n\nAs the legal team regrouped, in the face of the Constitutional Court defeat, to work on the next strategy, Matthew Norman, Si Yi Chen and Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen got a new lawyer and launched a judicial review with the Supreme Court in Jakarta.\n\nIn contrast to their earlier cases, when they had denied any role in the Bali Nine, they now accepted responsibility, admitted their guilt and apologised, saying they were turning their lives around. The Supreme Court accepted their appeal and their death penalties were reduced to life in jail. They could breathe again. Scott Rush also apologised and received the same good news and had his sentence reduced to life in jail.\n\nWith Julian's words, that they needed to look into themselves and face up to reality, ringing in their ears, Myuran and Andrew set about trying to make some changes. It wasn't easy.\n\nMyuran knew he needed a purpose. He wasn't getting out of jail anytime soon \u2013 nor did he deserve to \u2013 but he felt compelled to do something with his time. He was waking up angry every day. There was nothing to do and he was always in a shitty mood. It was the same thing all the time, day after day, week after week. Sitting around the cells, waiting \u2013 but not knowing what for. For the lunchtime rollcall... for the day to end... for the night-time lock-up. Watching other prisoners shoot up or smoke drugs, lying around with glazed eyes and dull expressions, doing nothing but seeking out money to buy the next hit. Or trying to avoid the gangs when they owed money and couldn't pay.\n\nMyuran felt directionless. There were only so many books you could read before you needed something more to fill the hours. And he was so grumpy. He said so himself. So did others. It was time to seize control of his life and shake off the heavy cloud that hung over him.\n\nOn a more practical level, Myuran and Andrew both had to change their lives if they were to have any chance of winning a reprieve. They needed something positive to tell the court when they applied for a judicial review of their cases.\n\nThe Melbourne legal team started the change when they donated 13 computers to the jail so Myuran and Andrew could set up and run computer courses for inmates. The jail's governor, Siswanto, was impressed, and he encouraged the rehabilitation courses proposed by the two Australians. When the idea to run the courses was first raised, he had invited Myuran and Andrew to see him straightaway. Previous governors would have made them jump through hoops to even arrange a meeting. But Siswanto was all for the idea \u2013 he loved it. A Christian and a pastor himself, he was just the kind of jail governor the Australians needed in order to begin their active rehabilitation. And over time Siswanto became one of their biggest supporters.\n\nA computer teacher from outside was brought in two days a week, and all those enrolled got a certificate at the end of the course. Myuran already understood some of the computer programs, so he helped the teacher, as well as throwing himself into getting English and first-aid courses established, again with certification. Andrew and Matthew Norman also helped out with teaching the courses. The idea was that the skills the prisoners learned would help them find work when they were released, breaking the cycle of crime and jail. They would have hope.\n\nIndonesian prisoner Lukman Agus had done two stints in jail. His third, for possessing 19 ecstasy tablets, was harsh \u2013 six years. He tried to commit suicide by injecting himself with bleach. But he missed the vein and didn't die.\n\nLukman turned out to be another of the catalysts that got Myuran out of his malaise.\n\nLukman knew how to paint and had started working with coffee and egg. He showed Myuran some of his designs, and Myuran could see he had real talent. He was inspired: they could turn this into something. Besides, Myuran was deeply affected by Lukman's bid to kill himself. It was such a waste. The man had a family, children who needed him. People like Lukman needed help and nurturing \u2013 they needed a purpose. They also needed skills to help them once they were released from jail.\n\nMyuran was thrilled at the prospect of helping Lukman to paint. It was March 2010 and things were finally looking up. I went into the jail for several days running, invited inside by Siswanto. Nothing had been off limits as I interviewed the Bali Nine, saw inside their cells and watched the computer and English classes in action. Myuran's eyes danced with excitement as he talked about Lukman, about how he wanted to start an art space at the jail where prisoners could come to paint and how much he himself had changed. He was desperate to start a program, making and screen-printing T-shirts. They already had some sewing machines but they needed a screen-printing machine. Myuran's plan was to sell some of Lukman's coffee and egg paintings to help fund the screen-printing business.\n\nThe next day, when I went back to see him, Myuran was happy to tell me he had sold some of the paintings to a former art gallery owner who was due out of jail shortly. It was all coming together. He also needed funds to run a second and third phase of a first aid course for guards and prisoners. After the first phase of the course it paid off. The life of a Dutch prisoner, who had a seizure in the middle of the night, was saved because guards and other prisoners knew what to do. Without that knowledge he would certainly have died. Myuran felt like there weren't enough hours in the day. At night, in his cell, he sketched designs for the T-shirts he wanted to print and thought of new projects.\n\nAndrew too was becoming more focused. He had started doing a bachelors degree in theology and a certificate in ministry. He had recently got a High Distinction for an assigment. He laughed, telling me that back in high school he couldn't get an HD even if he cheated. Andrew said he hadn't been the smartest chap in life but he couldn't change the past. 'I'm not going to blame anybody. I'm not going to blame anybody but myself,' he said. 'I'm not going to turn around and say because I have been sentenced to death everybody should feel sorry for me, give the sob story. I'm not going to cry, I'm not going to complain. I get along with life, that's it you know, I'm not going to let it stop me from whatever I need to do.' He talked, sitting at his desk in the tower block as he read and studied a Bible. His faith was what sustained him the most.\n\n'When you look outside, what do you see?' Sandy Elliott wanted to know.\n\nThe answer was simple: a wall, barbed wire. Myuran didn't need to visualise too much. These things surrounded him every day.\n\n'But you don't have to paint the wall exactly like the wall,' Sandy prompted. 'What colour is the wall? What about the barbed wire?'\n\n'The wire is like blood,' he said. 'That's how I visualise it.'\n\nSo that's how he started painting it. Fiery-red barbed wire and a drab wall. It was Myuran's first ever attempt at painting. It was mid-2010 and not long after he first met Sandy.\n\nA visual arts teacher from Brisbane, she had taken long-service leave to spend a year in Bali. She found herself helping the women of the 'Lipstick Brigade' taking mattresses into the prison after Lizzie Love's buying spree. When she was in there that day, someone, knowing she was an art teacher, asked if she had seen the remarkable coffee and egg paintings being done by Lukman. Sandy decided to meet this Lukman, and Myuran, and see what they were about.\n\nMyuran told her he really wanted to organise art classes. 'I'm an art teacher,' Sandy told him, and they went immediately to the jail governor's office to get permission for her to come in and teach. Siswanto was more than happy for it to happen, and Sandy put out a call to her friends for donations to get started. The response was overwhelming and soon they had enough money to buy a bulk lot of canvases and paints in June 2010. Together with a local gallery owner, who also helped out by translating, it was decided to get everyone to paint some works that could be exhibited and auctioned to make more money and keep the program going.\n\nSeveral of the Bali Nine were keen, despite never having painted before. Andrew leapt into it with gusto, painting a series of works. One of them he called 'Andralia' \u2013 a play on his name and Australia. But Myuran was reluctant. He had never painted before, and was adamant that he was doing this for the others. Sandy encouraged him: now the others were painting, he should too. Just a few for the auction. By this time she was teaching art twice a week inside the jail.\n\nAt Sandy's urging, Myuran finally picked up a paintbrush. Art was a form of escape, she told him. When he decided to paint the wall and the barbed wire, Sandy encouraged him to respond to his subject matter. What colour should he use? What did they represent for him? What did he feel when he gazed at it? But the result was too bleak \u2013 too depressing. He painted over it after Sandy left that day.\n\nWhen Sandy returned for the next class, she wanted to know what had happened to the painting of the wall. 'It's underneath,' Myuran said. He didn't want to be depressed. He wanted to paint something nice. Flowers.\n\nSandy was surprised, and suspected he was covering up his feelings by taking an easier option.\n\nMyuran spent hours on a painting of jasmine flowers. But he was always coy about its significance. The first time I met him, before the auction, he showed me the jasmine painting and told me that its meaning was a secret. The flower had a meaning, he revealed; it was more than just a flower. It symbolised something, and the purple he used was also significant. But it was his secret. He laughed shyly at my suggestion that it was something to do with a woman.\n\nThe truth was that Myuran had looked after a jasmine plant once, at the jail, but it died and he'd never smelt jasmine since. That jasmine flower was Myuran's first ever artwork. Well, the first artwork he shared with the world. The wall and barbed wire had been first, but he had painted the jasmine flower over the top of that one. Raji still has the jasmine painting at home. Sandy still has a photograph of Myuran painting the wall.\n\nAfter Sandy left, in 2010, Myuran approached Lizzie Love and asked if she would come in and do a beginner's art class. Lizzie had already been thinking about Myuran and her vow to him that if she committed to helping him she would be there for the long haul. Lizzie, a self-taught artist, began researching how to teach beginner art to others. She had been a maths and science teacher in a previous life and knew how to teach.\n\nLizzie started a beginner's course \u2013 how to mix paints, that kind of thing. Every participant got a box of art supplies and a folder. The first classes were held in the jail's small library. It was a huge success. Lizzie kept getting calls from Myuran, wanting more art boxes for more inmates who wanted to take part. But there was one steadfast rule: anyone with glazed eyes was not allowed. Every participant had to be drug-free. That was Myuran's rule and there was no bending it.\n\nMyuran asked Lizzie to teach sketching and pencil portraits. He wanted people to get out of jail with a skill they had learned inside, but he knew many of them would never have the money to buy paints and canvases. Lizzie got permission to bring a camera into the jail so she could take a photo of each student, so they could see the beauty in their faces and paint it. Myuran attended every art class run by Lizzie. The classes were held every Friday afternoon in the jail's modest library. They started with 12 students and quickly grew to 30 as more and more inmates asked to join.\n\nAbout six months after Lizzie started her classes the son of expatriate Dutch artist Nico Vrielink, who lived in Bali, was arrested and locked up in Kerobokan. Lizzie suggested to Nico that he come to the jail and teach art. He was a realist artist, and Myuran had been keen to find another artist to run classes for those who showed promise and graduated from Lizzie's classes.\n\nBy this time Myuran was hooked on art and was desperate to learn as much as possible. Lizzie also helped out by selling paintings from the art room to raise money to buy more paints and canvases. Myuran too attended every one of Nico's classes.\n\nMyuran was arranging for more courses to be run. He was absolutely loving it. The joy sparkled in his eyes as he explained all the projects already up and running and those he planned for the future. He spoke of how many people were being helped. He could barely stand still, so excited was he to show off the artworks and programs. And he was not angry anymore. He was starting to feel happy. He was finding purpose in his life, and he felt like he was becoming a better person.\n\nHe started graphic design classes, with the plan to set up a T-shirt screen-printing business; he would call it Kingpin Clothing, a tongue-in-cheek reference to the name given to him by police after he was arrested. Police had claimed Myuran was the 'kingpin' of the Bali Nine, and Andrew the 'godfather'. The monikers stuck for a long time.\n\nMyuran arranged for a T-shirt printing machine to be brought in. He was dismayed when it didn't work properly, and frustrated to realise he had been ripped off. But he didn't stop forging ahead. In fact, being ripped off inspired Myuran to ensure it never happened again. His error was partially due to his inadequate understanding of the Indonesian language. Never one to do things by halves, Myuran arranged for a tutor to come to the jail and teach him Indonesian. He wanted to know every aspect of the language, from street-level slang to the formal Indonesian used in courts and government circles. He had been initially slow to learn the language, in the early days when the cloud of depression hung over him. But with the tutor he soon became proficient.\n\nBefore he was arrested and put in Kerobokan prison, Myuran didn't know any drug addicts. Then he met plenty. He saw them shooting up. He saw them overdosing. He saw them almost dying, and helped save their lives. He saw the depths to which they would sink to get their next hit. He saw three or four men kill themselves. Some had run up drug debts, and to escape them they opted to suicide.\n\nOnce, when an inmate drank mosquito repellent in a bid to end his life, Myuran rushed to his aid, clearing his mouth and airways. They managed to resuscitate him. Then there was the time he saw an inmate tortured to death by 13 prisoners. He had ripped off someone on the outside, and a family member of the aggrieved happened to be in jail \u2013 and in the same cell.\n\nAndrew remembered that day well: it was his birthday. He woke up and saw the body lying in front of his cell. 'What's wrong with him?' he asked.\n\n'He's dead.'\n\nAndrew, too, had seen countless people die around him \u2013 from AIDS, drugs, suicide.\n\nMyuran had tried cannabis as a young man but hadn't liked it. As an asthma sufferer, he didn't like smoking tobacco. He tried cocaine back then but didn't enjoy that either. And he had never injected anything. Andrew, on the other hand, had been a chronic cannabis user before his arrest. Afterwards, he became drug-free for the first time since he was 16 years old.\n\nBoth men admitted they had never thought much about the effects of the heroin they were bringing to Australia, or about the countless families who would be affected. Back then it wasn't relevant to them. They lived for themselves: they were only concerned with the here and now, with the payday they'd have at the end of a successful drug run. The rest wasn't of interest to them.\n\nBut being in jail, with a death sentence hanging over their heads, was the ultimate wake-up call. If things didn't change, they stood no chance of mercy. So in 2010, with the projects and programs all underway \u2013 with Andrew studying to be a pastor, with the art room going so well, and teachers from the outside coming in regularly to run programs \u2013 it was time for Myuran and Andrew to launch their last court appeal, known as a judicial review. The plan was to show the court that they were rehabilitated, that they were remorseful and had become a force for good within Kerobokan prison.\n\nFor the first time since their 2005 arrests, Myuran and Andrew were going to admit their guilt publicly. It was a big step. From the night of their arrests, through their police interrogations and their trials, both had steadfastly claimed innocence. Unlike the seven couriers, who were caught with the drugs either strapped to them or in their possession, neither Myuran nor Andrew had been caught with any drugs. Both had prepared statements they wanted to read to the court. By now they were fluent in Indonesian. It was a good move, and the judges were impressed by their language skills.\n\nFive years earlier, Myuran had not been willing to admit his guilt. Now he launched into a heartfelt plea for his life. It was the first time he had spoken in public like this since he was a boy at school. He was a different person now, though, and he realised how many people his drug dealing had hurt along the way: his mother, his family and the families of many drug addicts.\n\nI know that I cannot take back the wrong I have done, but I am now leading a life which helps other people. Since I was arrested I have had plenty of time to think about the error of my ways, and with the support of Almighty God I have tried to change the way I behave, to help others and to lead a generous and not a selfish life. For this reason I respectfully ask the court to consider that my punishment should be imprisonment and not execution...\n\nI cannot say enough how truly and deeply sorry I am for what I have done. It was only after being in prison for several years that I realised that I must make up for what I have done. I also want to say publicly that I truly feel ashamed about how disrespectful I was in court in 2005. I was stupid and thoughtless enough to listen to bad advice, and as a result I deserved to be treated harshly at that time. I cannot make up for all the things that I have done. But with the support of Almighty God I have learnt to change my behaviour and I now spend my time working on projects to help other prisoners, including helping to set up projects that benefit them. One of those projects that I am most proud of is the computer course that I set up.\n\nMyuran listed the courses that were now running at the jail, and spoke of his pride in the first 20 students who had graduated from the computer course. Setting up these courses was the best achievement of his life, he said. And he meant it.\n\nAndrew, too, was now at the mercy of the court.\n\nYour Honours, when I was first arrested in 2005 I stupidly thought I knew everything, and in my previous trials, on the advice of my old lawyers, I pleaded my innocence. I stupidly thought I could walk out of here despite the crime I committed. However, I now know much better and it feels good to be able to speak the truth, to apologise and to ask for the forgiveness of Your Honours.\n\nI also want to apologise for my behaviour in 2005 when I was in front of this honourable court. At that time I did not have the proper respect for the court. However, I have learned a lot about myself and about Indonesian society during the last five years since then, and I feel very embarrassed about my behaviour.\n\nI know that I did some stupid things when I was younger, and I know that I can't change my past but I have genuinely changed my behaviour and I really want to focus on what I can do, now and in the future. I understand much better now the devastating effect that drugs can have on people and their families, and God has shown me that a person who has done bad things in the past can make amends once they can accept responsibility for their actions.\n\nAndrew told the court about the jail programs and how he was studying theology and a ministry certificate, and how he tried to support prisoners in need of help.\n\nI am doing these things to help others because I believe I have a purpose in life, not just to be held in prison and then executed. Once again, I want to say how deeply sorry I am for what I did in the past. I accept that I deserve to be punished for my crime but I beg the court not to be executed.\n\nI feel that I am still young. I am only 26 years old. One day, when I have served my full sentence, I hope to have a family and become a minister or a counsellor so that I can work with young people to prevent them from making the same mistakes as me. I hope that the honourable court will give me that chance.\n\nThe Australians' Jakarta-based lawyer, Todung Mulya Lubis, said he found their statements both touching and emotional. He was especially impressed by the way both spoke so eloquently in Indonesian, a mark of respect. Julian McMahon said it had been a big day in terms of everything that had happened in the previous four years. Myuran and Andrew had done what they could. They had finally taken responsibility for their actions.\n\nWhen the court resumed two weeks later, it was to take evidence from an unlikely character witness \u2013 the governor of the Kerobokan prison, Siswanto. He had agreed to testify on behalf of both Myuran and Andrew. This was a remarkable development; normally Indonesians in positions of authority and power within the bureaucracy \u2013 prison governors, guards, the police and their ilk \u2013 would never speak out against government policy. Their job is to carry out government policy without questioning it, particularly in a public forum such as a courtroom.\n\nThe gentle and clever Siswanto had been so accessible to Myuran and Andrew when they sought his permission to set up their various programs. He had fostered their enthusiasm and supported them, and had welcomed a succession of teachers into the jail. The testimony he gave at their judicial review was from the heart. He gave glowing reports about both men, telling of the good they were doing for the jail community. It was the first time that Siswanto had testified on behalf of any prisoner.\n\nThe governor made plain his own personal objection to the death penalty, and questioned why Myuran and Andrew could not be forgiven. The death penalty was too harsh for them, he said. If the pair were executed he would feel very sorry, because only God had the right to take someone's life. As an individual, Siswanto recognised he could not challenge Indonesia's use of the death penalty, but his heart asked, 'Can't they be forgiven? God is merciful.'\n\nHis words struck a chord. So they could listen to his evidence, Myuran and Andrew had been allowed to sit in the court's public gallery area like free men; such was the trust they had built up with their guards. (Later, after being transferred away from Kerobokan prison, Siswanto died in a motorbike accident. He had touched a lot of people's lives, and many prisoners were upset at his passing.)\n\nAlso testifying that day was a former Indonesian Supreme Court judge, Yahya Harahap. He spoke about a key plank of the duo's defence in this new hearing: that the original court had made an error by convicting Myuran and Andrew of exporting heroin from Bali. For the heroin to have been exported, he said, it had to have left the airport's departure lounge and be taken onto the plane, passing the last customs check. In this case, of course, it hadn't, as some of the Bali Nine were arrested in the airport departure area, and others at a hotel.\n\nThere was also the fact that a long-running revision of Indonesia's Criminal Code contained an important clause which had also been recommended by the Constitutional Court: that, after ten years of good behaviour, a death sentence could be commuted to life or 20 years in jail. But this revision was still only at draft stage, and was subject to a great deal of political argument at the time.\n\nThe Australians' chances of prevailing in the judicial review increased substantially a few months later, when the three judges in Bali who had heard the evidence wrote a report and recommendation to the Supreme Court in Jakarta. It is the Supreme Court, the highest court in Indonesia, which determines the outcomes of judicial reviews. But it does not hear the applications. A lower court, the District Court, actually hears the evidence and submissions; it then sends all the documents, along with its own summation, to the Supreme Court for determination.\n\nIn a six-point written conclusion, the three Denpasar District Court judges argued that the right to life was a fundamental, lasting and universal human right that could not be ignored, reduced or taken away. The death penalty must be used only selectively. The judges pointed out that Indonesia had, in 2006, ratified the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights, which stated that the death penalty should only be used for the most serious crimes. However, Indonesia had not yet ratified the second, optional protocol, which expressly forbade capital punishment.\n\nIn mid 2011, almost a year after Myuran and Andrew had first made their judicial review application, the Supreme Court returned with its decision: they had lost. The court found no errors in the original judgements and no reason to reduce the men's death sentence.\n\nIt was a crushing blow for Myuran and Andrew, their lawyers and their families. There was only one option left: a plea for clemency to President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, a man not usually minded to show clemency.\n\n# 4.\n\n# LOVE YOUR ENEMY\n\nIn 2011 Matius Arif Mirdjaja got another one-year sentence, this time for robbery. Back in Kerobokan prison, he knew something needed to change. After seeing what he thought was a ghost, he was introduced to Andrew; another prisoner thought the Australian might be able to help Arif get rid of his vision. Andrew told him it was not a ghost \u2013 it was Jesus.\n\nArif railed against him, accusing Andrew of idolising a statue of Jesus. Andrew suggested to Arif that he should start fasting in a bid to rid himself of drugs. And stop selling them. For three days Arif was weak, drinking water but taking nothing else. When Andrew finally visited him, his assessment was blunt: 'You look like a dead dog.'\n\nArif went without drugs for a week. During previous withdrawals, he felt like he had been hit by a truck. This time was different. Andrew asked him to pray and give thanks to Jesus. Andrew read to him from the Bible \u2013 the verse about Peter walking on water. 'You can do miracles, Arif, when you focus on Jesus,' Andrew told him. 'If you don't, you will sink.'\n\nNobody could believe Arif had quit drugs. Some of the jail gangsters \u2013 the gang leaders who ruled the place with violence \u2013 came to him, suspicious. 'You're not getting it from other sources, are you?' They didn't want to be undercut. That would mean trouble. When word spread that Arif really was drug-free and had given up the trade, others came to him. They wanted to quit as well. So Andrew convened a meeting in the jail church.\n\nHe told the gathered inmates that he would help them, but he had one condition. 'You have to tell the truth. I'm not asking you to quit suddenly but you have to tell me the truth. How many drugs are you taking every day? Where are you hanging out, and who with?' These things mattered, Andrew said, so they could identify a pattern of consumption. He also wanted to know where the users were when they didn't take drugs. Some said they were sleeping in the church. So a decision was made that the group would gather together every day, there in the church. It was a place they didn't associate with drugs.\n\nAndrew knew that if these men were to conquer the temptation of drugs, they needed activities. He loved cooking, a passion instilled in him from his parents' years of running their Chinese restaurant. He had always enjoyed mixing spices and the aroma of great food. Now he decided to start cooking so the men could share food together. He spent hours cleaning fish and mixing spices, and they all cooked it together and ate together. No one used drugs while they were cooking and eating.\n\nAfter a while, Andrew started a formal cooking class, for which inmates could receive certification. And the jail authorities agreed to build them a proper kitchen.\n\nBy this time Arif was moving towards Christianity. He planned to be baptised in jail, but he couldn't completely leave his old ways behind. He knew that gangs ran the jail, and so decided to start a Christian gang.\n\nAndrew was angry. According to the Bible, he told Arif, anyone who lived by the sword would die by the sword.\n\n'So what should we do?' Arif wanted to know.\n\n'Love your enemy,' Andrew told him.\n\n'That's rubbish,' Arif shot back.\n\nAndrew organised a meeting in the church, and told everyone to love one another, not attack one another. And that was how the church cell groups started. With Andrew at the helm, they helped many people.\n\nJason was a prisoner whom the gangs were about to bash because of an unpaid debt. Arif got everyone ready at the church. The Christians would fight the gangs. Andrew wanted to know what was going on. 'There is no need for violence,' he said. He walked calmly to the block where Jason was about to receive the gang's punishment. Smiling, Andrew said he was picking up Jason to take him to worship. He never got bashed up.\n\nIn this way, Andrew became like a guardian angel for his fellow inmates.\n\nBy mid-2012 Myuran knew he could get a lot of artists to come to Kerobokan to teach the prisoners. But he wanted someone who really cared \u2013 and who would care especially for the female prisoners. Myuran and Andrew cared deeply for the female prisoners, whose opportunities in jail were far more limited than the men.\n\nTina Bailey was an American pastor who had lived in Bali since 1997. She was not a traditional art teacher. She liked to be with people on their journey, and watch them grow and learn to believe in themselves. Myuran liked that. It was what he wanted too. So Tina agreed to come in once a week, from 9.30 a.m. to midday.\n\nNext Myuran asked if she would consider running a dance class for the female prisoners. She agreed.\n\nLike Lizzie, Tina had googled Myuran to find out more about him.\n\n'What did you read?' he asked tentatively.\n\nAfter reading about how Myuran had guarded the prison officers' weapons during a recent jail riot, Tina thought he must have been a decent guy. Myuran insisted it wasn't a big deal. He just hadn't wanted to get shot \u2013 and if the prisoners had got their hands on the armoury it would have been a bloodbath. Nevertheless, Tina was impressed, and from that moment on she became one of his closest confidantes and teachers.\n\nAround the same time American yoga teacher Denise Payne also started going into the jail, teaching yoga. Myuran loved it and practised regularly with her.\n\nIt was in February 2012 that gang violence at the jail had spilled over into rioting. The angry prisoners easily overpowered the handful of guards on duty, using anything they could find as weapons. When they set fire to the administrative block, Andrew and Myuran made a decision to act.\n\nThey could not allow the rioting gangs to get into the jail's armoury; that would mean weapons in dangerous hands, and certain bloodshed. The women's block, locked separately to the men's, was so far unharmed, but if anyone got their hands on the keys to it, things could turn very ugly indeed. The rioters had rape on their minds.\n\nThe two Australians, along with an Iranian prisoner called Moshen, who adored Myuran, got iron bars and guarded the armoury, stopping the rioters from getting anywhere near the weapons held inside.\n\nLater, Andrew was over at the women's block, standing guard to ensure that the rioters could get nowhere near the female prisoners. Andrew and Arif also stopped the rioters from burning down the jail's cafeteria, which was about 50 metres from the women's block.\n\nBy now the police riot squad was shooting at the prisoners who were closest to the front door. Four prisoners were shot and wounded. All the jail guards had retreated into the lobby area of the prison. When a police officer came in, past the lobby, with a megaphone, urging the prisoners to calm down, Arif suggested they take him captive; if things got too hairy they could always shoot him. The officer he had in mind was crying by this stage.\n\nMyuran was appalled. How could a man who had repented and found Christianity want to kill a policeman?\n\nMyuran's demeanour shocked Arif back to reality. His suggestion to take a policeman hostage and then shoot him was a throwback to his criminal past.\n\n'Release him,' Myuran demanded.\n\nFrom that moment, Arif's relationship with Myuran was restored. He thanked him.\n\nBy now the electricity in the jail had been shut off, and there was no food or water. Andrew and Myuran contacted Lizzie Love. She called around all her contacts \u2013 restaurants, pizza joints and the like \u2013 and was able to collect leftover food from the previous day. She brought it to the prison, forcing her way through the throngs of heavily armed police and army. She wore her jail ID pass around her neck; nobody stopped her. Perhaps they thought she was a harmless granny.\n\nOn the second night of rioting, Myuran and Andrew were instrumental in getting the prisoners to negotiate, which ultimately ended the riots. Just as police were about to storm the prison, Myuran called Lizzie, who was outside. 'Stop,' he said. 'They will negotiate.'\n\nThanks to Myuran and Andrew a bloodbath was averted.\n\nLater in 2012 Christie Buckingham and her husband, Rob, both pastors from Melbourne's Bayside Church, began visiting the jail and met Myuran and Andrew.\n\nChristie's old friend, Gail Dwije, with whom she had gone through Bible college, was now living in Bali, a pastor at C3 church and married to a Balinese man. Their Arms of Love foundation worked with the jail, conducting church services inside. Andrew had recently been baptised. He was now studying theology, with a view to becoming an ordained minister. Christie and Rob were in Bali running a women's and men's ministry conference, and Andrew heard about it. He asked Gail to see if they would like to visit the jail, and they agreed.\n\nBy this time, Arif had been released from jail, and he returned with the Buckinghams and Gail. Together they met Andrew and Myuran, and visited the workshop to have a look at the various projects.\n\nAndrew told them that he now felt freer inside Kerobokan than he did on the outside. When he felt down, he said, instead of telling God how big his problems were, he told his problems how big God is. Christie and Rob were in no doubt that Andrew was a changed man. As they prepared to leave the prison that day, they told both Andrew and Myuran to let them know if there was anything they could do for them.\n\nWithin two weeks Christie had received a big list from each of them. Andrew's requests were for the church and kitchen. Myuran's related to art supplies and computers. The Arms of Love foundation helped organise what they needed \u2013 six more computers \u2013 and paid for English and computer teachers. Next they brought in 150 kilograms of men's clothing, and 1000 hygiene packs for the prisoners.\n\nMyuran had always shaved his head; Raji regularly had to buy him the shaving gear he needed. That prompted another idea. One of the prisoners had been a hairdresser; perhaps they could open a barber shop inside the jail, and at the same time teach others how to cut hair?\n\nThen there was an idea for a bakery, so prisoners could serve an apprenticeship and become bakers. Chinthu investigated how they might source a bakery oven, getting costings and looking for places to set up a shop.\n\nThere were many funny times as Chinthu did absolutely everything he could to help his big brother. Once he sourced mannequins that could model Myuran's Kingpin T-shirts for a catalogue. People watched, puzzled and amused, as Chinthu carried the two mannequins into his hotel room, and then the next day into the jail. Tourists bought a lot of odd stuff in Bali, but what on earth did a grown man want with two mannequins? He couldn't help but laugh.\n\nAndrew, meanwhile, came up with a scheme to breed ducks in the jail. He received permission from the governor, set up a pen and had some ducks brought in. All that they needed now was for them to start breeding. But nothing happened \u2013 the ducks just wouldn't breed, or couldn't for some reason. Andrew complained to Christie Buckingham, who was helping with the project. 'I've done everything and I just can't get them to have babies,' he said, stumped.\n\nChristie was amused. 'They won't breed without a drake,' she told him.\n\nAndrew put on the puzzled, quizzical look he used when he couldn't quite understand. 'What do you mean?'\n\nChristie laughed and laughed. Andrew had totally overlooked the fact that he didn't have a male duck.\n\n# 5.\n\n# RESPECT\n\nIn May 2012 the legal term launched its last throw of the dice: a clemency appeal to the President of Indonesia, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. This came at the same time that SBY, as he was known, controversially granted Schapelle Corby a five-year cut from her 20-year term.\n\nCorby's clemency bid had been on humanitarian grounds: that she had suffered a mental illness since being incarcerated. One month earlier the Justice and Human Rights Ministry had recommended, as part of the clemency process, that her sentence be reduced by ten years. When SBY's decision was announced, it met with severe criticism, not least because the president had previously said he would not grant clemency to drug traffickers. His reversal seemed a good omen.\n\nMuch of the same material that was presented in the judicial review application was submitted now for clemency. Under the clemency system, all documents and legal decisions are submitted to the president's office, along with recommendations from the various government ministries. Raji Sukumaran wrote a letter to Yudhoyono, as did Chinthu. Michael Chan did likewise.\n\nRaji had thought long and hard about what to say. She wanted SBY to know how she, as a mother, felt about the frightening prospect of losing her eldest child.\n\nI am the mother of Myuran Sukumaran, who is in Bali Kerobokan Prison sentenced to death, and I am writing to you to beg you to spare my son's life. I have been living for seven long years with the knowledge that my son might be executed because of a stupid mistake that he had made. I go to sleep thinking about it and I wake up in the middle of the night thinking about it. I have not been able to sleep properly since he was given the death penalty. I cannot really explain what this feels like but I have this incredible pain in my chest all the time. It is an unbearable fear and sadness \u2013 a feeling of desperately wanting to help my son \u2013 but I am helpless to do anything.\n\nIn order to cope I have to keep praying to God and tell myself that it is going to be all right. My son will be all right. Please, Mr President, let it be all right, give him a chance to make up for his mistakes. Forgive him and give him another chance to live. He has turned his life around: he has worked so hard to help other people since his arrest and will never look back.\n\nMy son was so young when he committed the crime for which he faces the death penalty. He has grown and matured in prison [while] awaiting his fate. He understands now fully the impact of the drug trade \u2013 the grief and harm it causes to victims and society as a whole \u2013 and he is deeply ashamed and remorseful for his part in it. He uses all his time and energy to help others \u2013 and uses his own experiences to counsel and caution others not to make the same mistakes he has.\n\nMy husband has been suffering with depression for most of Myuran's life. During the period when Myuran was arrested, his father was going through a lot of problems and was in and out of hospital. It was a burden on the family as he was unable to work. Now he is a little better and was able to make his first overseas trip to Bali in January this year to visit Myuran. The family try not to tell him too much about Myuran's situation as this will trigger his illness: he now suffers from Parkinson's and dementia.\n\nMy other two children have been affected terribly since Myuran has been given the death sentence. My daughter was just twenty years and my other son was twenty-two years; they have put their lives on hold to support their big brother. We struggle and have not been able to think about anything more than Myuran's situation. We travel to Indonesia as much as we can afford to in order to visit Myuran. Your country is a very welcoming and accepting one, but we always leave it with such a heavy heart. It is a sign of Myuran's inherent goodness that when the time comes for us to leave to go back to Australia, a time when he feels extremely sad, he tries to make it easier for us to leave.\n\nOf course Myuran was sad and confused when he was first arrested. But after a little while the real Myu, the son that I know and love, began to emerge. In the past seven years I have seen my son grow as a human being inside the walls of Kerobokan prison, and I thank your country for that. I am not sure that he would have been allowed the same opportunities in an Australian prison or in any other countries.\n\nMyuran thinks very little of his own needs anymore \u2013 his own needs are met by making life better for others. He has helped so many other prisoners over the past seven years. He has been a driving force behind making Kerobokan a model prison, providing inmates with much better qualifications and prospects [for] when they are released into the community, allowing rehabilitation to truly work inside Kerobokan. He has set up a number of programs for others to better themselves.\n\nMyuran started a program to teach his fellow prisoners different computer skills. He started this because he saw how it could help heal people and give them a chance to not make the mistakes that sent them to prison. Myuran has set up classes teaching basic Microsoft Office, including Microsoft Word, Excel and PowerPoint.\n\nMyuran set up computer design classes that teach Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator and Corel Draw. This program provides real skills that can be used to get jobs. Myuran has found a love of art, painting and drawing. Myuran has set up a small business that uses screen-printing to make T-shirts, with the money coming back to the prison to help fund these classes. Myuran also wanted to teach language and life skills so he set up first aid and philosophy classes. Myuran has also organised auctions through the different teachers, with profits used to make the prison better and buy materials for the classes. I have become so proud of the work he has done to try to make up for his mistakes. He has learned a lot and has apologised for his crime.\n\nMyuran has made a lot of friends in the prison by helping them and has a lot of respect for the prison guards, who see him as a role model for other prisoners. When I visit Myuran in the prison I meet other families who tell me how much their loved ones have benefited with Myuran's encouragement. This makes me so proud of my son, and I thank you for giving my son this opportunity in the Bali prison \u2013 I only hope and pray that you can find it in your heart to grant clemency and spare my son the death penalty.\n\nThe prison governor spoke very highly of Myuran's work with prisoners and how he has helped so many people. Pak Siswanto surprised everyone when he came into the court and asked the court to spare the life of Myuran because it would be a waste of his life. Myuran has so much to give. Please read the testimony of Pak Siswanto; it is here that I see how much my son has tried to fix the mistakes he has made and atone for his crime.\n\nMyuran always wanted to help people. He was a blood donor and was involved in different charity work as a young man, [but] unfortunately he got off track and made a huge mistake, for which he pays a heavy price every day.\n\nMyuran made his huge mistake by getting involved with the wrong people. As a parent you try hard to guide your children but sometimes they make a mistake. His mistake has changed his life. He was young and foolish. He was going through a tough time while his father was sick and things at home were getting too much for him to handle. He was trying to get away.\n\nMyuran has done all in his power to make up for it since. His goal is to [set] a good example [for] all the young children who are in [a] similar situation. Myuran played a big role in helping to stop the recent riots. Myuran was able to control the inmates and play a key role in bringing peace to the prison. Myuran helped to get food and water to the women's block during the riot, and was able to do this because he was respected by everyone in the prison.\n\nNow my son \u2013 who has truly turned his life around, learned quite a lot about life and wants to do good for everyone \u2013 has his life in your hands.\n\nMyuran is my eldest son. He is everything to me and my other children. Even though he is not much older [than] his siblings, he took care of them during the time their father was sick. His plight is shattering for all concerned.\n\nI'm humbly asking you with all my heart not to execute my son. It would be an excruciating loss and would destroy our family.\n\nThank you, Mr President, for reading this letter, and thank you for all the good things you have done to the Australians and other prisoners from other countries that are in similar situations.\n\nMay God bless you and your family.\n\nYours sincerely,\n\nRaji Sukumaran\n\nMichael Chan's letter to President Yudhoyono was equally heartfelt:\n\nI am writing this letter on behalf of my family to beg that you grant my brother release from the death sentence to a lesser sentence. My name is Michael Richard Chan and I am Andrew Chan's older brother. Our parents, Ken and Helen Chan, had four children. Andrew was the youngest. We have two sisters.\n\nMy father, Ken, migrated to Australia in the 1940s so he could start a family and give us a better life. Our father and mother, Ken and Helen, have worked extremely hard, seven days a week, all their lives in order to ensure we had all the basic things in life such as a proper education, food and a roof over our heads.\n\nWe are an average family that live in Australia. We do not have many relatives here as my father is the only person left on his side of the family, and my mother's family mostly reside in Hong Kong. I currently work... for a retail company. My two younger sisters are good hard-working women. I am married and have been for the last four years. We don't have any children \u2013 it is hard for anyone in the family to consider the future when we face daily the prospect of my brother's death. My parents [are] find[ing] [it] very hard to cope. They blame themselves for Andrew's situation \u2013 when he was growing up they were at work a lot, he was the youngest and was perhaps allowed to get away with things, and not given the level of discipline and guidance given to the rest of us.\n\nAndrew has been in Indonesia's Kerobokan prison since April 2005 for attempting to traffic drugs to Australia. The family try to visit Andrew as much as they can. My parents are elderly and are not able to travel much anymore. This is excruciating for them. My sisters and I visit every year. Since his imprisonment in Indonesia we have seen him grow from a young immature man with no aspiration in life to a mature fully grown adult. He has deepened his faith in God and is helping and inspiring others with his strength and tenacity for life. He has grown into a man that we are proud of.\n\nWe do not attempt to downplay the serious nature of what Andrew has done. My brother talks about the gravity of what he has done. He recognises the destruction that drugs cause to individuals and the community. He is ashamed that he ever got involved with them. He is ashamed that he has put all the people that care about him through this ordeal. He knows he has hurt his parents very deeply.\n\nAndrew now knows what he wants in life. If by your grace he is given the opportunity to live, he will devote his life to helping the community. He wants to counsel and teach others, in particular young children, of the dangers of becoming involved with drugs. He is already doing all he can in this regard, counselling those around him and writing letters to others outside the prison.\n\nHe helps the Indonesians inside the prison by teaching them the English language and computer skills, enabling the prisoners to gain life skills and help them to look for employment, which will deter them from committing crimes and returning to prison.\n\nAndrew has found his faith again inside Kerobokan prison. He attends every Sunday service. For the past several years Andrew has also studied theology via correspondence. This has been a life-changing experience for my brother. He aspires to be a pastor and to one day lead his own church or congregation. Andrew has run church services inside Kerobokan prison. He believes he can give something back to the people of Indonesia by encouraging the inmates to lead a better life and not to return to prison through prayer and faith in God.\n\nWe would like to thank your country for at least allowing us to see what kind of man our son and brother can be. Andrew is a real example of the successful rehabilitation programs that your country allows. The genuine nature of my brother's reformation was apparent when, at the last appeal, the governor of the prison, Pak Siswanto, came and urged the court to spare his life, because of the good work and influence he has now brought to the prison.\n\nWe ask that you please recognise that my brother was a young man who made a terrible decision, that he has truly repented for his crime, and that his life has great value and meaning to others.\n\nWe humbly beg of you to please allow Andrew to continue on his path to improve the lives of others. Please let him be a son and a brother to us.\n\nPlease let him live.\n\nWith respect,\n\nMichael Chan\n\nChinthu, too, wrote a letter, describing how his father's illness had impacted the family, how his mother had worked two jobs to support the family, and how Myuran had taken the responsibility, as the eldest child, to look after them. Chinthu told how his little sister, Brintha, seemed to have put her own life on hold since Myuran's arrest. She too felt like a criminal, like no one would want to marry her, her life lived under the shadow of Myuran's crime and punishment. Chinthu wrote too about the good works Myuran had done while in jail.\n\nHe has lived in the shadow of death for so long now yet he has not crawled away and hidden, but has sought to turn his life around. Myuran has grown so much as a person. He has become wiser. When I see him spending time helping others, I see the real Myuran, the true Myuran. He is the big brother that I have always known. These actions are his truth today. I thank the prison and I thank Indonesia for allowing him the chance to turn his life around. I do not believe he would have been given such an opportunity in prison in Australia.\n\nAll I can do as a family man is ask you to consider all of this. I humbly ask you to grant him mercy and to permit him to live.\n\nYours sincerely,\n\nChinthu Sukumaran\n\nWith the clemency appeal lodged, there was nothing to do except wait and pray that President Yudhoyono would reply with a favourable answer. For a year nothing happened \u2013 nothing at all.\n\nIt was in late 2012 that a woman named Mary Farrow sent a Facebook message to the renowned Australian artist Ben Quilty. Mary had joined the campaign to save Myuran and Andrew after meeting Julian through a separate campaign in Victoria, and soon she was visiting Kerobokan jail. She threw herself into helping Myuran and Andrew with their various projects, and was particularly passionate about Myuran's artistic journey.\n\nBen replied the very next day. He vowed to help, and in December 2012 they were walking through the prison doors in Bali to meet Myuran. Ben was amazed they had got in so quickly, with so little security checking; they could easily have brought in contraband, he commented. 'There's already guns and knives in here,' Myuran said, laughing.\n\nMyuran was stunned and delighted when Ben agreed to mentor him in his development as an artist. According to Myuran, when Ben first came to the jail he 'blew my mind', and it was clear that after Ben's arrival his painting style changed. Being in jail was a gift for a painter, he joked. The experiences and the emotions were so raw; you didn't need to look far to find inspiration.\n\nIn late 2013 something disastrous happened. It was revealed that Australian intelligence had been tapping the phones of Yudhoyono and his inner circle back in 2009. Perhaps most galling to many Indonesians, and to SBY himself, was the revelation that the phone of his wife, Kristiani Herawati, known nationally as Ibu Ani, was among those being tapped.\n\nThe president was furious, and Indonesians everywhere reacted angrily. It was one thing to spy on the leader, but to be spying on his family was another matter. In Indonesian culture family is all-important, and women are revered in households.\n\nA diplomatic row erupted. Amid claims that Australia was treating Indonesia like its enemy, Yudhoyono recalled his government's ambassador from Canberra. Calls for Australia's prime minister, Tony Abbott, to apologise went unheeded. Abbott claimed that Australia should not have to apologise for reasonable intelligence-gathering activities.\n\nIt was not until almost a year later, in August 2014, that the issue was finally put to bed. Indonesia and Australia signed a code of conduct on intelligence cooperation, and Australia pledged not to use its spy agencies in ways that could harm Indonesian interests. By this time Yudhoyono's second term as president was coming to an end; he was not eligible to stand again, and in July of that year Joko Widodo was elected to replace him. Widodo was sworn in on 20 October 2014.\n\nThe Sukumaran and Chan clemency pleas were still languishing somewhere in the president's office. What impact the spying scandal had on Yudhoyono's intentions to grant them is unknown. He may not have intended to deal with them before leaving office. He has never spoken publicly on the matter.\n\n# 6.\n\n# THE PASTOR AND THE PAINTER\n\nMyuran wrapped the cord around his neck. In the dark, alone in his cell, he wanted to know what it felt like, what the sensation would be if he decided to end his own life. He wasn't planning to do it then and there. But he often wondered, if it came to it and the execution was imminent, whether it would be better to do it himself rather than get lined up, tied up and shot. Might it be better to go on his own terms, rather than be paraded around like a circus animal in the final hours and minutes? Maybe. His family would be spared the trauma of those final 72 hours.\n\nThis was years ago, after he was first sentenced and lost his initial appeals, and before he chose to lift the fog of depression and make something of his life. He never seriously contemplated it but he did think about it.\n\nBeing on death row, for Myuran, felt like having a gun held permanently at the side of his head, and not knowing when it would go off. Or walking on a sheet of glass day in and day out, never knowing when it would crack and he would fall through. Never knowing how long he could keep walking on it.\n\nAndrew felt like he was playing Russian roulette, and the gun had already gone off five times. He was still alive, but next time he wouldn't be. He, too, had thought about suicide, in the very beginning. But that was a long time ago, before he and Myuran had made the conscious decision to own up to their crime and start leading meaningful lives.\n\nAndrew often found himself counselling others out of suicide. Like when British woman Lindsay Sandiford was, in a shock decision, sentenced to death in 2013 for smuggling 4.8 kilograms of cocaine from Bangkok to Bali. The prosecutors had requested only a 15-year sentence; when the judges announced the death penalty everyone in court was stunned. Her co-accused received far lesser sentences.\n\nThe jail governor asked Andrew to go and talk to Lindsay when she came back from court, to calm her down. She was in a state of shock and panic. She was depressed. Andrew told her it was a process \u2013 to remember that God's strength and her family would hold her together. 'Your family is your number one priority,' he said. 'By killing yourself it will only sadden them more.' Lindsay was one of many prisoners Andrew counselled and prayed with in this way. (At the time of publication, Lindsay Sandiford is still on death row.)\n\nBack then, in 2013, Andrew believed that if he hadn't got caught when he did, he would probably still be involved in drugs. Or dead. It was the lure of the easy money that had attracted him to it in the first place. He hadn't thought about the consequences. He'd felt invincible. Back then he believed the odds of getting caught were two in ten. And he was only thinking about himself.\n\nHe said he didn't blame the Australian Federal Police, whose controversial tip-off in 2005 led the Indonesian police to intercept the nine Australians. Andrew was clear: he had made his own choices and had no one but himself to blame. He felt responsible for some of the other nine, who may never have been involved had he not brought them into it. While he had never coerced any of them, he said, he nonetheless felt some responsibility. To those he believed he owed an apology, he had apologised long ago.\n\nBefore being arrested, Myuran didn't really have a life plan. The future seemed a long way away. He didn't really have any aspirations either. Perhaps a car. But after he went to jail he realised that a car wasn't even that important. Family and good friends were precious. The money he would have made from the drug run could never compare to the suffering and strain that was bearing down on his family. When he committed the crime, Myuran had been young. He saw the money he was to be paid as a lot. Reflecting on his life, Myuran knew that if he had stuck at one of his early jobs he would likely have ended up as a manager and been earning good money. But youth meant he wanted everything instantly. He had been so short-sighted. Eight years in prison had taught him one thing: when it comes to drugs, nobody but those at the top get rich. Most get caught and end up in places like Kerobokan.\n\nWhen the pair was first arrested, they got hate mail from people in Australia who abhorred drugs, whose sons or daughters had been addicts and died from the kind of heroin Myuran and Andrew were bringing from Bali to Australia. Back when they were running the drugs, they hadn't thought about their effects. But when they found themselves living among drug addicts, that all changed.\n\nAndrew started thinking about how badly his drugs could have harmed people. He had been young, selfish and obnoxious back then, by his own description. What didn't affect him directly didn't matter.\n\nAndrew felt especially saddened at the effect of his crime on his parents. They had worked hard to give their four children a better life. He felt he had repaid them with nothing but pain and agony. He couldn't tell his mother not to care, that everything would be alright. He didn't know if everything would be alright. His parents were not well. His dad's health was poor, and the trip to Bali was arduous. Andrew had never thought too much about things like his father's health, their financial situation. But after years in jail he recognised the impact his crime was having on the whole family. And he now appreciated how precious life is.\n\nHe wanted his family to see how much he had changed. He got his strength from God, but it was because of his family that he got up every day. What would hurt them more than he already had? If he didn't get up and carry on. That's how he thought of it. He was still a son, and still part of a family \u2013 he had a lot to live for. He saw every day as a chance to help someone else, to change the course of someone's life, to help others.\n\nThis was how both men felt as their jail projects became more popular and garnered more applause. Andrew was keen to get a first-aid course going, with professional teachers, with the eventual aim of having two trained prisoners per block. Lives could be saved. A man in his 50s had died from a stroke when simple first aid might have saved him, Andrew said. Personally, Andrew was relishing completing something he set his mind to.\n\nPeople who came into the jail for stealing generally left knowing how to cook crystal meth or sell drugs. Now they were building their self-esteem and gaining positive life skills they could use in the outside world.\n\nMyuran, too, had learned the harsh reality of jail. 'Education for criminals, that's what it is,' he told me once. 'People send their kids to Harvard for the connections and the networks they make. It's the same in jail. You meet criminal connections in jail. You get better at crime.'\n\nMyuran wanted to become a better person \u2013 and he wanted the same for everybody else in the art classes. It was a vehicle for them all to travel in, he said one day. Guards often peeked in the windows, watching them work. They sat as subjects for the artists and sometimes even took up the brushes to paint themselves.\n\nThese projects were Andrew's and Myuran's pride and joy. The workshop where classes were held had once been legendary as a methamphetamine factory. Now it had become a sanctuary for prisoners who wanted something more from life. They all wanted to pursue learning, either to pass the time and avoid the dull boredom of jail, to develop skills to help them get jobs once they were released, or to keep their personal demons at bay. Sometimes you could even forget for a moment you were in jail.\n\nJulian McMahon says Myuran displayed a huge amount of courage. Daily or weekly he had to resist the jail gangs who tried to infiltrate his space. Many times he had to physically keep them at bay. They were not happy at the power and respect Myuran had earned in the jail. He walked around with the keys to the jail workshops. Traditionally, it was they who ruled the jail, not some Aussie prisoner who had an art workshop. Myuran also had to give the guards, who helped him at the workshop, the courage to keep the gangs away. And he had to lead the inmates and show them how to do it as well. It was a massive burden and he struggled with it. It took a lot of physical and emotional fortitude, day after day. Like everyone, he wasn't flawless. Sometimes he would lose his temper and resort to thumping someone.\n\nAndrew, Julian says, inspired inmates in an evangelical way, more of a healer in the wider prison environment, not just the church. He counselled many people about drugs. And it wasn't just the inmates. He ensured their families on the outside were okay. If they needed money for their kids' schooling, it was forthcoming from within Andrew's circle in the jail. If they needed money for medical reasons, it was always there. No one was ever hungry or left bereft. Andrew was running an efficient NGO from behind bars. And people loved him for it. The church was his sanctuary, and no one was ever turned away.\n\nMyuran's sanctuary was the art workshop. In one corner was Myuran's desk. On it sat a computer, his art text books and office equipment while his paintings adorned the wall behind. It looked for all the world like a normal Balinese office. A painting he had done of his mother hung on the wall behind the desk. Other paintings by Myuran were on the wall, alongside the works of many of the other prison artists. Easels were dotted around the wall, paint brushes in buckets, tubes of paint. On first glance it could have been any art workshop anywhere. The only sign it was a prison was the guards in their uniforms.\n\nEvery prisoner in that workshop had nothing but praise for Myuran. They loved him. So too did Hermanus, the guard in charge of the area. In 28 years as a prison officer, he had never met a prisoner quite like Myuran. Hermanus was amazed at his ability to motivate his fellow prisoners, who before had done very little with themselves. Now they were creative and disciplined. So trusted was Myuran that he held the keys to the workshop area.\n\nHe was constantly looking for new courses to run \u2013 the aim was to keep inmates so busy that they had no time for drugs. Myuran knew from experience that once you started having negative thoughts, it was easy to spiral out of control.\n\nIn his early days at Kerobokan, Myuran had been greatly burdened by his guilt \u2013 primarily over the impact his crime was having on his family \u2013 and descended into depression. He kept a journal. Although he said it contained nothing profound, he shared one deeply moving page with me. In it, Myuran lamented that no matter how much he did at the jail, it felt like it was never enough \u2013 that something was always missing. He felt worthless and useless, a burden on his family, friends and country. He tried to keep himself busy in order to suppress those feelings.\n\nAs his art progressed, under Ben Quilty's tutelage, Myuran became more confident. He became the man he wanted to be. He said Ben helped him do that. The only thing he wanted now, he told me, was for his mum to be proud of him. Nothing else mattered.\n\nFellow Bali Nine members Si Yi Chen and Matthew Norman, both serving life sentences, were also involved in the jail projects. Si Yi ran a highly successful silversmithing course, and made silver jewellery that was marketed as Mule Jewels \u2013 a reference to the drug mules. With the help of expatriate woman Joanna Witt, who runs Yin Jewellery, Si Yi teaches inmates how to create and make silver jewellery.\n\nMatthew Norman helped teach English and run the computer courses. He had been the youngest of the gang when they were arrested \u2013 just 18. He had to grow up quickly behind bars.\n\nLike Myuran and Andrew, both Si Yi and Matthew were turning their lives around, and hoping that this would earn them some reprieve from their sentence. In the Indonesian justice system, life means life \u2013 no parole date is set. But after six years of good behaviour, prisoners can apply to have their sentence reduced to one of 15 to 20 years. Year after year, Si Yi, Matthew and the other Bali Nine members have applied for reduced sentences, but so far none has been forthcoming. The president's approval is required. When a sentence is reduced from life to 20 or 15 years, inmates also become eligible for twice-yearly sentence remissions, which can shave eight months off for each year served. Those on life sentences get no remissions whatsoever.\n\nIn 2013 Andrew penned a letter to school students, warning them against drugs. He wanted it to form part of an anti-drugs program for use in schools in Australia more broadly and was working with a filmmaker on making an anti-drugs documentary, _Dear Me: The Dangers of Drugs_. He deeply wanted to be an anti-drugs ambassador \u2013 so he might be able to deter young people from taking the path he had. Andrew sent his letter to me.\n\nHis life, he wrote, was a perfect example of an absolute waste. The hurt he had caused his family was agonising to him. 'A simple touch such as a hug is not possible for a condemned man like me,' he lamented. 'I have nothing but iron bars to hug, rather than be embraced by those I love and miss.' He urged young people who might be slipping into the grip of drugs to seek help \u2013 go and see a school counsellor, even if you didn't like him or her. Churches and youth centres could also help. Telling no one was akin to digging your own grave.\n\nI was once 15\u201316 years old, and it wasn't too long ago that I was sitting in class just like you guys. I was an average kid, and let me tell you, my teachers obviously didn't like me for I was no teacher's pet.\n\nTo cut a long story short, I got mixed up with drugs at a pretty young age. By the time I was about 15 I was fully addicted. I was just like most of you, trying to hide these things from my parents and family, but in the end things spiralled out of control. I have seen many friends die in the past, and I'm sure if they had a second chance to do things differently now they would.\n\nI have done things which I'm not proud of in my life, and made some pretty stupid decisions. I'm the right person to say this; all you need to do is type me into Google and I'm sure you'll get the results \u2013 sentenced to death.\n\nAndrew went on to say that if he had thought about the consequences of his actions, he wouldn't be where he was today. 'Every criminal thinks they won't get caught, but your past comes to catch up with you,' he told the students. 'You are still young, with decisions to make.'\n\nIf you want to be a thug and the big bad wolf, I'll see you very soon. But for those who want something in life, I would like you guys to see how important it is that you put your head down and study hard.\n\nAt the end of the day, I'm 29 years old. The truth is I might not be able to even see my 30th. How many want to follow in my footsteps?\n\nI hope that these words will penetrate through your minds and hearts and that most of you if not all of you will achieve more than I ever did.\n\nThey were powerful words from a man who, as a teenager, had embarked on a self-destructive path, and whose life now hung in the balance.\n\nAs well as being earnest when preaching and warning others, Andrew was exceptionally funny. He was always good before a crowd. One time, while fundraising for victims of a natural disaster in the Philippines, he addressed his companions. 'The good news is we've got the money,' he told them. 'The bad news is it's still in your pocket.'\n\nAndrew led the jail's Christmas services for the Christian inmates, and was always involved in organising the day's celebrations. One year he told a story about a greedy boy who wanted a bike from Santa. His mother was poor and didn't have any money. She told him to pray and to ask God for the bike. So the boy prayed and promised God that if he got a bike, he would be good for a year. That night he couldn't sleep, and began praying again; now he promised to be good for six months in exchange for a bike. Finally, he looked to the left of his bed and saw a statue of Mary. He grabbed it and stashed it under his bed. 'God, if you want to see your mother again, you'd better give me a bike,' the boy said. Everyone laughed. Andrew was reminding his fellow inmates not to forget the real meaning of Christmas \u2013 not to hold God for ransom.\n\nHe was the pastor of Kerobokan.\n\nMyuran's art skills were developing. He devoured art books, asking anyone who came to visit to bring him more texts and tomes to read. He wanted to learn so much so quickly. He still couldn't believe that Ben Quilty was teaching and mentoring him and he was so grateful. He sometimes found it hard to get his head around the fact that someone as revered in the art world as Ben was actually coming to the jail to teach him. In June 2014, at Ben's urging, he entered a self-portrait in that year's renowned Archibald Prize.\n\nShowing me the self-portrait he joked with me that Archibald entrants often paint famous people. He was painting an infamous person \u2013 himself. 'Look where I am,' he said as he looked around the jail visiting area that day. 'There are not exactly famous people in here for me to paint.' He used a mirror to paint himself. He admitted this technique \u2013 which he started using after meeting Ben, who told him to stop painting from pictures in magazines \u2013 made him think a lot about himself as he looked at his own image. 'Sometimes you like what you see, sometimes you don't,' he said of gazing at himself for so many hours. And he told of learning about himself. 'I have learned a lot. I have been focusing on what my flaws are, so I really know what they are. It is not the best place to work on your flaws. You get frustrated, you get angry, you get jealous, you get depressed.' The most important thing, he said, was to know your flaws.\n\nThis was something that Lizzie Love had helped him with. Lizzie had many discussions with him about his lack of impulse control. He told her it was a different environment in jail, you had to establish yourself as top dog. It wasn't like the outside world, he lamented. It was always him breaking up fights inside. Sometimes his temper got the better of him. Lizzie tried to give Myuran ways to use his brain and his mouth to resolve problems and issues, and, for the most part, it worked.\n\n# 7.\n\n# CLEMENCY DENIED\n\nIt was back in December 2014 when Joko Widodo, newly elected as president, first revealed what he had in store for drug criminals. There would be no mercy, no clemency, he told university students. He vowed to reject all 64 clemency requests from those convicted of drug crimes. Indonesia, he said, was in a drugs emergency, with victims dying every day. He produced a set of figures \u2013 apparently drugs statistics \u2013 which he used as justification for his stance.\n\nMyuran and Andrew had lodged their clemency pleas during the second term of President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, but he had failed to respond. During the 2014 presidential elections, they had put their hopes of salvation in Widodo, known popularly as Jokowi. A former furniture maker from Solo, who had become his town's mayor and then the Jakarta mayor, Jokowi was not part of Jakarta's political and military elite. The Australians were optimistic that he would show clemency \u2013 especially given that his opponent for the top job, Prabowo Subianto, was a military strongman with a chequered human rights history.\n\nYet the former Jakarta mayor quickly surprised many with his hardline stance on drug crime. He spoke frequently of the dangers of narcotics, and of his desire to start executing people. It was a long December for the Australians and their families.\n\nMyuran's world came crashing down. It was 7 January 2015. An aide from the Presidential Palace flew from Jakarta to Bali carrying a letter confirming that Myuran's clemency plea had been denied. (The President, Joko Widodo, had actually signed the clemency denial on 30 December 2014.) The aide went first to the Denpasar District Court, which had handed down the initial sentence. After this, she went across town to Kerobokan, delivering a second copy of the letter to the jail authorities, who were to pass it on to Myuran.\n\n'After carefully considering clemency pleas from convicts listed in this Presidential Decree,' the letter stated, 'it is assessed that there is not enough reason to give clemency to those convicted.' No reasons were given as to why the bid was rejected.\n\nMyuran was speechless. He felt lost and angry.\n\nIn Melbourne, Julian McMahon was busy with a local case when I told him the news. I sent him a copy of the letter. He called the rest of the legal team, the government and DFAT, and broke the devastating news to the Sukumaran family. Raji was in tears. She couldn't stop crying. Nor could Brintha. Chinthu could barely speak. Everyone was in shock.\n\nSoon after getting the letter, Myuran opened up to me in a long missive, spelling out his despair.\n\nMe and Andrew don't want to be executed just about some political thing. How do you compare us, young and stupid attempting to smuggle 8.3 kilograms to Oz between the nine of us to seasoned smugglers, big people who do 1000 kilograms, 800 kilograms, 600 kilograms, and they only get a life sentence or 10\u201315 years. Why are we so evil that we deserve to be taken out and shot? This is so, so messed up... Is there no such thing as rehabilitation? Or is it not possible for people to change?\n\nIn the world of all incarcerated people on drugs offences, no one has worked harder than me to rehabilitate not just me but many people around me. I haven't bullshitted or pretended to be good, I did it. I spoke out against drugs within the prison, against the drug bosses and the gangsters; I've been threatened and intimidated and many, many times attacked for it. I stood my ground. With the help of the Kerobokan prison guards \u2013 a few good ones in particular \u2013 we did much good work here. Does that not mean anything?\n\nWe [have] been living under the shadow of death for so long, and it's killing my family. It's eating us slowly. It's a miserable way to live. I feel completely lost about this decision and really don't know.\n\nBut I won't let them break my spirit. I will keep doing what is right, and at the end of the day when I stand before judgement I will be judged on who I am and what I've done.\n\nI think in this world everyone can bullshit and play politics and accept bribes and corruption, squashing the little fish and taking money from people to let them do what they do. All the people in Indonesia are dying from drug overdoses \u2013 when are the lawyers, prosecutors, judges, police and politicians going to take responsibility for their part in this?\n\nI was attempting to smuggle drugs out of Indonesia! I failed, and I know what I did was wrong. I am trying to make up for it. I live everyday trying. I've pushed more than anyone to set up programs until the guards got sick of me asking. I honestly don't know why they won't give me and Andrew clemency. They've given other people clemency who have not earned it. They gave Corby clemency. And they gave an Indonesian woman clemency in 2012 who was running a drug ring from inside the jail.\n\nMe and Andrew led a push for rehabilitation within this jail \u2013 we changed the prison from within \u2013 and they execute us? It doesn't make sense. What do they want to show the world \u2013 that they have no rehabilitation?\n\nIn his message Myuran touched on something that he and Andrew and others in the Bali Nine had long felt: that public opinion in Australia had supported Schapelle Corby but not the Bali Nine.\n\nIf I was white, blonde hair, blue eyes? If I was a huge mega-kingpin drug lord who could afford to pay millions of dollars to bribe people?\n\nMyuran was speaking from his heart. He was angry and hurt and felt let down. He thought he had done enough to be spared death.\n\nPlease take a closer look at my and Andrew's case; please see that we are different; please give us a second chance. Please show us mercy. I am absolutely terrified that my mum and brother and sister will have to experience my execution. We are the best examples of the good points of the Indonesian justice system. We show the potential of what the Indonesian justice system can do. Why destroy that?\n\nInexplicably, Dutchman Ang Kiem Soei's bid for clemency was rejected along with Myuran's \u2013 in the very same letter. There was no explanation for why the two cases had been linked in this way. In other cases, co-defendants were linked on the same decree, but there was no relationship whatsoever between Myuran and the Dutchman. Was it an error? Should it have been Andrew Chan, not Ang Kiem Soei? No one knew. Myuran wanted to know if it was a typo or a mistake \u2013 or perhaps the president simply was not really aware of who he was. It just added to the sense that the executions were being organised in a shambolic fashion, with little regard for detail.\n\n'This is insane. Things are moving so fast.'\n\nBefore the president's rejection letter arrived, Myuran had been doing some paintings of a young female prisoner who had a tumour in her uterus, for which she urgently needed an operation. Medical services are not free for prisoners in Indonesia. In order to be treated in a hospital, they must first pay the costs upfront. Those who can't pay simply can't be treated. Indeed, it's no different for anyone in Indonesia, where health services, especially good ones, are not free and there is no social safety net.\n\nMaria Cecilia Lopez, a Filipina prisoner, had been arrested for attempting to take 250 grams of methamphetamine from Thailand to Indonesia; she was sentenced to eight years and six months. Myuran had got to know her after she participated in some of his rehabilitation programs, including the computer workshop and dance class, as well as learning reflexology. Now she was gravely unwell and he wanted to help her.\n\nHer story was a sad one. Pregnant, she began suffering from a uterine disease; she decided to smuggle drugs in order to pay for her health problem and to care for her unborn baby. A month after she was locked up in jail in Bali, she lost the baby and the disease got worse. The only cure was an operation, although that might render her infertile. And the cost was prohibitive: at Bali's Sanglah hospital the medical fees would reach about $4000. Myuran made it his business to raise the funds for Maria's operation by doing what he did best: he would paint portraits of Maria and himself to be sold. By this time his art was becoming better known. Many Aussie expatriates in Bali were happy to buy them, especially to support such a good cause.\n\nAt the time he learned his clemency was denied, Myuran had already raised Rp 10 million, he said; they still needed another Rp 20 million or Rp 25 million. Despite his own desperation, he kept painting. Nothing was going to interfere with his determination to help Maria.\n\nGiven the gravity of what was happening, though, he couldn't concentrate. He sent me a picture of a portrait he was trying to complete, but which he said he'd messed up.\n\nMy idea is to do four more paintings and try to sell them at $500 a pop to get the money for her operation. The last Rp 25 million will come from my pictures; I've just got to finish four more paintings.\n\nLizzie Love set to work selling the paintings once they were done. In a bid to sell the works, Lizzie paid tribute to the work both Myuran and Andrew had done in starting co-educational classes at the jail, to ensure that women as well as men were able to participate \u2013 something that had previously not been allowed. 'Maria is important to them both,' she wrote in a flyer. 'They are clucky at times in their protection and concern for the women in the jail. Prospects for the women in the jail are grim if these two lads are executed.'\n\nShe had been out of contact with Myuran for the previous three months after a disagreement over a new project to keep dogs inside the jail. Lizzie, a dog breeder, had donated some of her dogs to the inmates to raise but had taken them out after a disagreement over the way the program was running. With his clemency blow, Myuran asked Lizzie to come and see him. It was gut-wrenching for Lizzie. The last words she said to him as she left the jail that day were: 'I am so scared for you Myu.' She stood on her tippy toes and hugged him for the first and last time.\n\nRaji Sukumaran's heart was breaking. Her worst fears were being realised. She just couldn't understand how it was possible that all her son's work at the jail could count for nothing. All she wanted was to have one chance to meet President Widodo, to plead her son's case before him.\n\n'I am sure if the president knows what Myu has done inside, I am sure he will grant him clemency. I know that he would not take my son's life away,' she told me on 10 January. 'I am angry, I am terrified, I don't know what to do, I feel helpless. I am really scared, really scared.'\n\nRaji spoke about her feelings on learning that Myu's clemency bid had been denied: 'I was shocked. I thought that with all the good things that he has done in the prison, the president will grant him clemency. There are so many things he has done \u2013 he has helped so many people. Every day he is looking for something to do to make somebody's life better. He is rehabilitated and still they want to take him and kill him, and it's not fair.'\n\nThe close-knit Sukumaran family rallied to support each other. As always, Chinthu was a rock for Raji and Brintha. As Raji sobbed that day in Sydney, Chinthu was standing nearby, ready to comfort his mother if she faltered. But Raji was determined. She wanted to talk about her eldest son and the injustice that killing him would be, no matter how much her heart ached. Hers was the pain any mother would feel at the prospect of losing a child. 'If they want to kill him, they should be killing me first, because I brought him to this world,' she sobbed.\n\nChinthu approached to comfort her. It was hard to watch and hear her despair. She couldn't do the one thing she wanted to do: hold her son and tell him everything would be okay.\n\n'I can only say that I love him,' she continued. 'What else can I say to him? I can't tell him that I will bring him home. I can't promise him that everything is going to be okay. I just want him to be alive somewhere so that I know that he is okay. I don't want to live like this. I wish they kill me first. He doesn't deserve to die.'\n\nRaji cried and cried.\n\nMyuran was desperately scared. In fact, he was more afraid than he had been in the ten years since his arrest. Unable to sleep, he was haunted by thoughts of his own death, of being tied to a pole and shot through the heart, of saying goodbye to his beloved family, of what it would do to his mum. It was just eight days after he'd learned that President Joko Widodo had denied his clemency plea.\n\nThere had been no word yet on the fate of Andrew's clemency bid. But given that his and Myuran's cases had been identical \u2013 in their arrest, conviction and rehabilitation \u2013 few believed the result would be anything other than a denial. The president had already indicated as much: Indonesia was pushing ahead with plans to execute six people that month, and more later. Myuran had heard that several of the six were already being moved to the execution island of Nusakambangan.\n\nAt 7.30 a.m. on 15 January 2015 he sent me a message:\n\nThere's a rumour going around that a Nigerian and Brazilian have been taken to the island to be executed. I didn't sleep last night \u2013 it was the most terrifying feeling I've had since I've been in jail.\n\nThe prison grapevine was alive with news of the upcoming executions. Everyone knew it was a bad sign.\n\nLater that day, Attorney-General Muhammad Prasetyo held a press conference in Jakarta. He announced that in the early hours of Sunday, 18 January, six drug convicts would be executed: five foreigners and one Indonesian. No Australian names were on the list.\n\n'The execution of the Bali Nine cannot be done yet,' Prasetyo told the media. 'We are still waiting for one other person, named Andrew Chan.' Under the law, he explained, if a crime had been committed by more than one person, the executions of all those involved should be done at the same time. Myuran would not be executed until the outcome of Andrew's clemency was decided, he added. If Andrew got clemency, then Myuran would be executed. But if Andrew's clemency plea was rejected, they would be executed together.\n\nPrasetyo listed those who would die: Brazilian Marco Archer Cardoso Moreira, Nigerians Daniel Enemuo and Namaona Denis, Dutchman Ang Kiem Soei, Vietnamese woman Tran Thi Bich Hanh and Indonesian woman Rani Andriani (alias Melisa Aprilia). The Vietnamese woman was to be executed alone, in Boyolali in Central Java. The others would die together at Nusakambangan. News of the imminent executions sparked an outcry from the nations of those involved, and from human rights organisations.\n\nMyuran and Andrew were desperate to know what the attorney-general was saying. 'Please update me,' Andrew messaged when I told him the press conference had just started. 'Please let me know ASAP,' Myuran wrote.\n\nBoth men kept a close eye on the news, watching every article that appeared, especially those with information from the Indonesian side. Myuran sent me a link to a story reporting Indonesia's response to Australia's pleas for the lives of the Bali Nine duo, which had emphasised their rehabilitation. The Republic understood Australia's response, but noted that the Australian prime minister had said the matter should not affect bilateral relations between the neighbouring nations.\n\nMyuran had also seen a story in which the Indonesians said there had been no pressure applied by Australia. 'It doesn't look good,' he told me. 'From what I'm hearing things will move quickly.' Nor had his Indonesian legal team, led by Todung Mulya Lubis, been very positive:\n\nHe said that there is a big chance that the Supreme Court won't accept our PK [judicial review], and that if that happens then things will move fast. They could accept and recommend the sentence be upheld. Before he left he hugged us... he didn't seem confident.\n\nMyuran felt their fate now rested on whether the Australian prime minister, Tony Abbott, could persuade his Indonesian counterpart to be merciful. 'We still don't know but from everyone's indications the only thing left is from Abbott,' he told me.\n\nHe said everyone thought the second judicial review was a slim chance.\n\n'All the lawyers and consulate think that it is meaningless and won't work. It's now entirely up to Abbott.'\n\nMyuran was desperately trying to think of options. 'Somebody suggested that I stay away from asking for mercy and focus on how good the Indonesian justice system is in Indonesia and how they could rehabilitate prisoners, especially the Australian ones who cause so much trouble. Appealing to their pride rather than their mercy,' he messaged. He said an Indonesian had also suggested it might be better to praise and thank Indonesia.\n\nAfter hearing Attorney-General Prasetyo declare that six executions would take place that weekend, Andrew messaged me suggesting an article about his case: 'My headline for my article is \"What Does It Take?\"' He was referring to all the rehabilitation work that he and Myuran had done in jail, to all the inmates whom they'd helped find purpose and meaning, and to their own deep remorse and their continued work to make amends for their crime. What else did it take to get a second chance? Despair was setting in.\n\nThe next morning Myuran felt like the end was nearing. 'Honestly, after talking with everyone I think we are close to the end,' he wrote. What could I say to that? His desperation was heartbreaking.\n\nThink positive, I urged him; things are fluid and change quickly in Indonesia.\n\nHe responded:\n\nCan you do an article on the hypocrisy of everything here? I know we did bad and made a mistake but what about the 800-kilogram bust three weeks ago? Why's nobody calling for their execution?\n\nHe also pointed out a story about an Indonesian policeman caught importing 4 kilograms of drugs from Malaysia.\n\nSo many cases had obvious anomalies. One of those to be executed on 18 January was Rani Andriani. She had been arrested in 2000, part of a drug syndicate convicted of attempting to smuggle 3.5 kilograms of heroin and 3 kilograms of cocaine to the United Kingdom. Also arrested were her cousins Meirika Franola (alias Ola) and Deni Setia Marhawan. Ola had been arrested at home; her husband, Tajudin, was shot dead during the police raid. All three women had been sentenced to death by the Tangerang District Court in West Jakarta.\n\nEleven years later, President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono granted clemency to Ola and Deni, reducing their sentences to life in prison. This was one year before Myuran and Andrew lodged their own clemency pleas.\n\nOla was dubbed _Ratu Narkoba_ , or 'Queen of Narcotics', by the Indonesian press. A mere ten months after her clemency was granted, she was arrested in jail, accused of masterminding a drug-smuggling syndicate that moved 750 grams of crystal methamphetamine from India to Bandung, West Java. Granted a second chance at life, Ola had been dealing drugs from inside jail.\n\nThe cases of Rani Andriani and another Indonesian woman, Edith Yunita Sianturi, were joined with those of Andrew, Myuran and Scott Rush in the 2007 challenge against the death penalty in the Indonesian Constitutional Court. Eight years later Rani Andriani's punishment was about to be finalised. (Sianturi died in prison in 2009, apparently having contracted tuberculosis and HIV.)\n\nThe story of Namaona Denis, another slated for execution on 18 January, was also replete with anomalies. Firstly, it was said he was from Malawi, but he was in fact Nigerian. His name was not actually Namaona Denis but Solomon Chibuike Okafor. The name under which he was convicted was the name on the false passport he was carrying at the time of his arrest. He had been sentenced to death in 2004 for smuggling a kilogram of heroin \u2013 in 73 capsules, which he had swallowed \u2013 into Jakarta airport. He had been promised US$3000 if he successfully delivered the heroin to its destination. He had originally received a life sentence, but it was upgraded on appeal to the death sentence. In 2009 his lawyers had filed for a judicial review of his case, based on the incorrect identification; that was turned down, and he remained known by the Indonesian authorities as Namaona Denis.\n\nHis tearful Indonesian wife visited him on Nusakambangan, and afterwards read a letter he had written:\n\nMy name is Namaona Denis, a poor man that has been bankrupt and forced to be a courier. I am not a drug dealer. The change of my sentence from the life sentence to [the] death sentence... has robbed [me of] the justice that I have fought for until now. I plead to all people to understand my struggle to get justice, so that other people will not face the treatment that I have faced. Because apparently having good behaviour and being obedient to the laws in this country was not enough to get justice.\n\nHe asked forgiveness from the Indonesian people.\n\nDenis's lawyer, Choirul Anam, was angry. So too was his client. They claimed he had been tricked and lied to about leaving the Tangerang prison, where he had been held, to be brought to Nusakambangan for execution. Anam said that Tangerang prison guards had told Denis there was a new case involving his name, and that he needed to leave the prison to meet that person. Instead, he was taken to Nusakambangan to die. Anam argued that it was illegal to kill his client, who had recently lodged a judicial review of his case, which was yet to be finalised. The Indonesian National Human Rights Commission had also written a letter on Denis's behalf, asking for the execution to be delayed as the judicial review was incomplete. These pleas were ignored.\n\nAnother of the 18 January group \u2013 Dutchman Ang Kiem Soei \u2013 also complained about the arbitrary nature of the death penalty. Lawyers for Soei, who had been convicted over an ecstasy factory, told the Indonesian media that their client's judicial review had not been fully considered by the Supreme Court. Lawyer Harry Ponto told Indonesian newspaper _Kompas_ that the judges had considered only one of the three points made in the review, and that Soei's rights had been violated as a result.\n\nMoreover, Soei had shown clear evidence of rehabilitation. While many drug convicts continue their illegal activity in jail, Soei had developed a herbal therapy treatment that had been registered as a legal medicine by the Food and Drug Agency, and had even received a patent. Ponto claimed that Soei had treated many inmates and Nusakambangan locals.\n\nIn the evening of 17 January Andrew messaged me: 'Heard they'll be taking Marco out very soon.' He was referring to rumours now circulating that the condemned were being readied for execution.\n\nAt 1.02 a.m. on Sunday, 18 January 2015, Attorney-General Prasetyo announced that all six scheduled executions had been carried out. The prisoners had been shot dead at 12.30 a.m. Five had died on Nusakambangan and one in Boyolali.\n\nAccording to news portal Detik.com, Tran Thi Bich Hanh had worn white clothing and a hat of her choice for her death: she had been 'beautifully dressed up', according to the prison's governor. She had apparently been ready to meet her fate, telling guards it was her life's path.\n\nMarco Archer Cardoso Moreira had not been accompanied by his spiritual adviser, the Catholic priest Father Charlie Burrows, who had been based in the St Stephen's Church in Cilacap since 1973. Father Burrows had been ministering death row prisoners since 2007 and was outspoken in the fight against the death penalty. In this case, the priest had inexplicably been barred from being with the prisoner during his final hours, and from comforting him in his final moments. The Brazilian government was angry.\n\nThe United Nations Human Rights Commission called execution a barbaric practice, and argued that narcotics offences could not be considered among the most serious crimes for which the death penalty might be used. Ahead of the killings, Amnesty International had called on the Indonesian government to cancel its plans, claiming the death penalty was a human rights violation:\n\nIndonesia's new government took office on the back of promises to improve respect for human rights, but carrying out these executions would be a regressive move. Rather than putting to death more people, the government should immediately impose a moratorium on the use of the death penalty with a view to its eventual abolition.\n\nAmnesty International's Research Director for Southeast Asia and the Pacific, Rupert Abbott, criticised the Indonesian leadership:\n\nIt would be a huge setback if the government goes ahead with its plans to execute as many as 20 people during the year. Tackling rising crime is a legitimate goal of President Widodo's administration but the death penalty is not the answer and does not work as a deterrent to crime...\n\nThe plans for a new spate of executions come at a time when the government is actively seeking to protect Indonesian nationals who face the death penalty overseas. If the death penalty is wrong elsewhere, it is surely wrong in Indonesia too.\n\nIn the early hours of the morning, after the executions had been confirmed, Andrew was angry:\n\nU gonna bash out that story now with the one in Jakarta 840kg? Someone needs to cover that story or nothing will be done. Also what's that terrorist's name that gave up the Bali bombers? Where is he now?\n\nHe was referring to an 840-kilogram methamphetamine bust, recently captured in West Jakarta.\n\nMyuran was downcast about his and Andrew's prospects. 'I think the outcome is already set,' he said. Now that the Indonesian president had acted on his promise to execute drug traffickers, he could feel the net closing around them.\n\nAndrew meanwhile was trying to remain positive. The day after the executions I asked how he was coping. 'As dandy as one can be,' he quipped. I commented that he had had some church visitors that day. He wanted to know who was spying. 'They were spotted like the Big 5 in Africa,' he joked. He loved figures of speech. Used them all the time. He wanted to know why there were so many reporters in front of the jail. 'Do they actually know I'm limiting my press releases to only you? Stupid people. I have limited who I speak to media wise. If I have something to say I will go through you.'\n\nIt was the afternoon of 22 January when an official from the president's Jakarta office again arrived in Bali bearing a letter. This time it was Andrew's clemency rejection. It was handed to the Denpasar District Court about 1.20 p.m. The official then headed to Kerobokan. At the time he arrived, Andrew and Myuran were taking Norway's ambassador to Indonesia on a tour of the prison, pointing out the rehabilitation programs they had set up.\n\nThe letter had been signed by President Widodo on 17 January; it read:\n\nAfter carefully considering the clemency plea from the convicted that is listed in this Presidential Decree, it is assessed that there is not enough reason to give clemency to the convicted.\n\nIt was not a huge surprise. Many had predicted the outcome would be the same for both the Bali Nine applications.\n\nThe Australians' legal team was in Bali, planning their next moves. Julian McMahon and Veronica Haccou had been at the jail that morning but had left before the letter arrived. When Julian heard the document was on its way to the jail, he ordered his car to turn around and return immediately. He needed to be with his clients.\n\nWhen he arrived, he couldn't find Andrew and was worried. Eventually he spotted him comforting a fellow prisoner who had passed out, as they waited for an ambulance to arrive. The man's arm was paralysed from a stroke and he was struggling. It was a mark of the man Andrew had become: during one of his darkest hours, he was helping a fellow prisoner in need. Andrew's faith was sustaining him, and he wanted to keep ministering.\n\n'I'm still alive and he was in bad shape, so he needed more help than me,' Andrew later wrote. 'It's the human thing to do \u2013 if someone needs help and you can help, we as humans should help.'\n\nMyuran, meanwhile, continued to show the dignitary around the jail programs.\n\nAt the same time, lawyer Todung Mulya Lubis was at the Denpasar District Court, meeting with the chief judge to work out how to apply for a new judicial review (known as a PK \u2013 _Peninjauan Kembali_ \u2013 or case review) on behalf of Myuran and Andrew. The problem was that, under the law, both men had to be present at court when the PK was lodged; given the amount of security required, this appeared to be impossible. Mulya was trying to work out another way to lodge the appeal.\n\nBy the end of that day both Andrew and Myuran were deeply sad. Julian felt the sadness and resignation as he spoke with them that afternoon. The combination of statements by Indonesian authorities and rumours and messages people were hearing led to a sense that it was all over and that they would be dead within days or possibly a week or two.\n\nJust days earlier, President Widodo had spoken again about the drugs emergency. 'Why do I say the country is in a state of emergency over drugs? Because the number of [illegal drug users] who need rehabilitation is nearly 4.5 million people,' he said. Widodo claimed that 1.2 million drug users could not be rehabilitated, and nearly 50 died each day. Indonesian clerics must spread the word about the dangers of drugs. Jokowi himself would continue to reject clemency requests for the 67 men and women on death row, locals and foreigners alike.\n\nThe president was confident in his approach. Heads of state of countries with citizens whose clemency had been rejected had been contacting him, he revealed. But he was being backed by parliamentary committees, whose members were urging him to resist the pleas of foreign governments. His policies were popular: everyone from fellow politicians to taxi drivers and shopkeepers were parroting his statistics about the country's drug crisis in order to justify the executions.\n\nDespite the blow, Andrew was trying to keep his spirits high. He had set up a kitchen at the jail, and begun teaching inmates to cook. It was a decade now since he had lived at home and enjoyed the superb Chinese cooking of his parents, Ken and Helen, who had run their own Chinese restaurant. But he still knew a thing or two about cooking, and loved whipping up dishes and photographing them. For a while, he sent me photos every day of what he had crafted for dinner that day in the jail's kitchen.\n\nAndrew was always on the lookout for ingredients, encouraging his visitors to bring this or that spice, meat or vegetable into the jail. He once convinced me that he needed a leg of ham that he would glaze and bake. He could taste and smell it before he even got it. I searched Bali for the ham and after he cooked it, Andrew sent me photos of the glazed leg. And he always wanted Chinese Five Spice \u2013 he was forever convincing people to bring it over from Australia.\n\nHelen and Ken Chan were urgently planning to visit Andrew, who by then hadn't seen his parents in three years. Their health was ailing and the trip would be arduous, but with the clemency bid now denied, Helen and Ken were not staying away from their son. Andrew was anxious about his mum, in particular, coming to Bali. 'She is going to have 50 million questions for me and I won't have the answers,' he said.\n\nStill, he hadn't lost his sense of humour. 'I'm as busy as an escort agency that's just hired George Clooney,' he joked of all the things he had to do and all the people who wanted to see him. At the time Andrew was reading _The Four Loves_ by C. S. Lewis, which explores aspects of love from a Christian perspective \u2013 affection, friendship, erotic love and the love of God. Andrew fancied himself as a writer and often joked with me about writing a Pulitzer Prize\u2013winning piece: 'Lol, Cindy, as I said, you saved my ass that many times, I'll give you a golden piece after. Let's just see how things go.'\n\nSome had suggested he was a good creative writer, he told me, but he confessed to having been hopeless at school: 'Lol... the only A on my papers was my name starting with an A, Andrew.' He suggested the Lord had blessed him with the ability to write.\n\nMyuran was worried about the future. 'It's not about the bullets,' he told the lawyers. 'It's about leaving family behind, leaving things unfinished.'\n\nHe was thinking deeply. He talked a lot about his art and about how proud he was to be learning from Ben; he was conscious of how much he was learning, and of how much he still had to achieve. He now knew what he had to do to get to the next level. He wanted to keep living so he could make it there. 'If I didn't have people like you,' he told the lawyers, 'I'd probably be like them too,' referring to Nigerians in the jail who continued to deal and use drugs.\n\nMyuran was trying to paint portraits of his family members each day. He tried to paint his mum but she couldn't sit still. He too was having trouble concentrating, with all that was going on. He had told his family when they first arrived that he was being selfish; he wanted it to be a happy, fun visit. 'I don't want them to remember us sitting around crying and being miserable,' he wrote to me. 'I want my Mum and family to see me happy and doing what I love.'\n\nHis belief that he was meant to be a painter was growing. He loved it so much. It was too hard to talk to his mother about his feelings, he said; he wanted to make her laugh instead. They talked a lot about when they were little kids, about the good old days, telling funny stories. It was a means of self-preservation, given things were now dire. Myuran had heard that the Australian government was making no progress in Jakarta. 'It's just not looking good,' he said. 'Everything is on a razor's edge.'\n\nThe impasse over the request for a second judicial review was resolved when the court agreed to come from Denpasar to the jail and receive it there. Myuran and Andrew joked with their lawyers \u2013 if I was in a coma for six months the doctor's certificate could say 'no shooting today'.\n\nSupport for Andrew and Myuran back home was building. Word came through that a concert titled 'Music for Mercy' and a candlelight vigil were to be held in Sydney's Martin Place on Thursday 29 January, organised by Ben Quilty and hosted by actor David Wenham. But Myuran and Andrew, after ten years in jail away from Australia, appeared not to know who Wenham was.\n\n'Didn't he play some kind of lawyer? Some kind of overweight lawyer?' Myuran asked.\n\n'I don't know who he is,' Andrew said. 'Was he in _The Castle_?'\n\n'The one who played the fat lawyer?'\n\n'The one who died?'\n\nThere were many times in Kerobokan prison that January when it was just Myuran, Andrew, Veronica and Julian spending time together. They called them the verandah conversations \u2013 they sat on a verandah area together. They were precious times. There were lots of laughs. They had more fun in that time than they had ever had since knowing each other. There was a running gag about Julian's weight. Myuran and Andrew called him 'The Fat Man' and joked with him about how much weight he was putting on. Once he was jesting with Myuran and Andrew about how much weight they themselves had put on since the clemency was denied and they were eating so much junk food. 'You two could be plus-size models,' Julian told them. Myuran didn't miss a beat. 'Yes, and you can be the first customer.'\n\nMyuran lamented that since his clemency had been denied, many of the prisoners in his art classes had stopped coming to class as they were too distressed. He was running around trying to get them to come back.\n\n'I don't want to be counselling people about my execution,' Myuran said one day. He wanted Jokowi to take another look at their case. 'We did wrong. If you don't give people incentive to change, then why would they change?'\n\nAs the lawyers left that day, Myuran farewelled Veronica. 'Thank you, Veronica,' he said. 'I don't want to die, Veronica. Remember that.'\n\n# 8.\n\n# PEOPLE CAN CHANGE\n\n'Whether you have three days, three months or three years to live really doesn't make any difference to the kinds of steps you should be taking in regards to how you live,' Julian told Myuran. 'You have to stand up and lead, and stop feeling sorry for yourself. There are a lot of people fighting for you.'\n\nBefore he left Myuran that day, Julian said he wanted to see a new painting by the next morning. As he walked out of the prison, though, he wasn't sure that Myuran would take up his brush again.\n\nBut that talk had stopped Myuran from falling into an abyss. He embraced Julian's words. That evening, he decided to send a message. A powerful message. He hoped it would reach the eyes of the one person who now mattered. He started painting: black hair, parted on the left side and neatly swept over... a chiselled jaw... dark eyes.\n\nThe painting Myuran produced that night was good \u2013 very good. It was an impressive likeness of a man he had never actually laid eyes on, but whom he'd seen often on television, and whose image appeared regularly in the Indonesian press.\n\nSatisfied with his portrait of President Joko Widodo, the next day Myuran showed it to Julian.\n\nThe lawyer urged him to give the painting an inscription. 'If you could speak to the president right now, what would you say?' They got a black pen.\n\nMyuran turned the canvas over. On the back, in cursive script, preceded by a little arrow, he wrote three powerful words: 'People Can Change'. He underlined them. The portrait was simply titled 'Jokowi'. He signed it: 'Myuran Sukumaran, Kerobokan Prison, Bali, 23\/01\/2015'.\n\nAs he left the jail Julian clutched the still-wet painting, with a blank canvas over the top to hide its contents. It was the most important blank canvas he had ever carried. (He still has it.) Julian didn't want the painting unveiled to the media just yet. He thought it was a wonderful painting, in no way negative about the man who had just ordered Myuran's death. Julian thought the painting had the potential to be weaponised at some point in the future and it was kept under wraps.\n\nFrom the time the lawyers lodged the clemency pleas in mid-2012, they had decided not to pursue any other legal avenues, believing this would be disrespectful to the president as he considered their requests. But it was now clear that the issue was politically charged. The comments from Jakarta were a signal to the legal team that legal and due process was being replaced by politics. It was very concerning to hear comments that all the death row prisoners would be executed regardless of legal actions. The team began to shape its legal responses, looking at the comments of the president and the attorney-general. Julian remained optimistic that reason and representations at a political and diplomatic level could ultimately prove sufficient to save 'the boys' as he called them.\n\nAt the same time as shaping their next move, the legal team was trying to keep up Andrew's and Myuran's flagging spirits. Myuran, in particular, was at risk of falling into depression. He had always had what Julian said was a melancholy disposition.\n\nIt had been a dreadful few weeks and Myuran had struggled to do any painting; he was haunted by nightmares, he was emotional and stressed. Many times he wondered whether he should go on.\n\nJulian and Veronica were straight with him: he needed to pull himself together. The lawyers couldn't do their job if he was falling apart. Julian was concerned that at the very time they needed to be ready to fight on many fronts, Myuran might sink. He was deliberately forceful with him, in a supportive way.\n\nAndrew finally had some good news. As the culmination of six years of study, he was ordained as a pastor during an emotional ceremony held in the jail's chapel.\n\nHelen was in Bali to celebrate her youngest son's achievement. She hugged him \u2013 both were in tears. She was so proud of Andrew. For him it was a dream come true, and he was thrilled to conduct a service for his family and friends.\n\nPastor Christie Buckingham was there too. She had helped supervise Andrew's study and his work, and now she presented him with a Bible. Inside was an inscription in beautiful handwriting:\n\n_Presented to Andrew Kenneth Chan on the occasion of his ordination as a minister of the Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ. 'Preach the word of God. Be prepared whether the time is favorable or not. Patiently correct, rebuke and encourage your people with good teaching.' 2 Timothy 4:2._\n\nAnd in a letter dated 27 January 2015, Brian Medway, the national chairman of Crosslink Christian Network, confirmed that Pastor Andrew Kenneth Chan was duly ordained as a minister of religion at Kerobokan Prison Church. It was a big achievement for the man police had once called the godfather of a heroin racket.\n\nOn 29 January, the Martin Place vigil went ahead. More than 1000 people gathered to protest Andrew's and Myuran's executions. A petition calling for mercy already had 135,000 signatures.\n\nBut, within days, there was more bad news. On 4 February the Denpasar District Court announced that the judicial reviews lodged by Myuran and Andrew just a few days earlier had been rejected. The legal team had hoped the Supreme Court in Jakarta would allow them a second PK. But the court in Bali said that neither Australian had fulfilled the primary requirement for a PK \u2013 that there be new evidence. For this reason, their requests could not be accepted.\n\nIt was also unclear whether prisoners were allowed more than one PK. Both Andrew and Myuran had already run one PK, back in 2010, which they had lost. Attorney-General Prasetyo argued now that no more than one PK was allowed. The Supreme Court concurred.\n\nBut others, including the Constitutional Court, held that there was no limit on the number of judicial reviews possible. It seemed that the Supreme Court did not consider itself in any way bound by the decisions of the Constitutional Court. Others disagreed, saying the Constitutional Court was the highest court in Indonesia. It was clear as mud \u2013 and, like so much of the Indonesian legal justice system, what was written in the law books was not necessarily the way things worked in reality. Had the Constitutional Court's view prevailed, Myuran and Andrew and the others on execution lists may have been allowed to lodge their second PK.\n\nAs part of their application, Myuran and Andrew had written letters, in Indonesian, to President Widodo and to the Supreme Court, begging for a second chance.\n\nIn his letter Andrew acknowledged that he was guilty of the crime, and said he was not attempting to justify or minimise that. But he had changed, he wrote, and was teaching others not to make the same mistakes. He was training to become a priest. 'I hope from the bottom of my heart for a second chance,' he wrote.\n\nMyuran apologised for what he had done ten years ago, and wrote that he had been working to right the wrong by helping those around him. He felt ashamed of how he had hurt his family and his country, and he had tried to become a better person. It is difficult to be a good person in jail, he wrote, but after he learned Indonesian and built trust with his guards, they had shown him kindness and compassion and patience, and had helped him start a program to teach inmates computer skills. Myuran listed all the programs that were now running at the jail.\n\nThen came crushing news. The Australian consul-general to Bali, Majell Hind, visited Kerobokan jail early on 6 February, to tell the men that the Australian Embassy had been advised the previous evening by the Indonesian Foreign Ministry that Myuran and Andrew would be executed that month.\n\nIt was the worst possible news, and the first instance any timeframe had been articulated. There was no date, just the month. Given it was already a week into February, the clock was now ticking loudly.\n\nMyuran and Andrew were in shock. Within hours, both their mothers would be arriving at the jail to visit. Myuran wanted to tell Raji himself, and Andrew would tell Helen.\n\nRaji was inconsolable as Myuran broke the news.\n\nMyuran messaged me, saying that his mother might make a statement to the media when she left the jail that day. 'Can you ask them not to be aggressive?' he wrote. It was all becoming too real now.\n\nHelen, too, was devastated, breaking down as Andrew gently told her what they had been advised. Ken, who had not been well enough to travel with her to Bali, would now come within days. Helen was herself suffering from an eye condition, which was exacerbated by the heat and the dust, and all the crying. Michael Chan was in Sydney and would fly back to Bali the next day. All were hoping and praying for a miracle.\n\nMichael felt like they had already done everything they possibly could. Andrew, he told me, was in a good headspace and was holding up pretty well, considering. They still had hope. What else could they do?\n\nRaji and Brintha did speak to the media as they left the jail that day. For days they had come and gone silently, keeping their counsel despite the entourage outside the jail. But now there were some things they needed to say.\n\nRaji's message to the Indonesian government was simple. 'They have rehabilitated,' she said. 'They are doing a lot of things here. They are good children. Please don't kill them. Give him a second chance.'\n\nBrintha begged the government to spare her big brother. 'Please don't kill my brother,' she said. 'Please, he is a good person. He has rehabilitated and we love him so much. Please don't kill him. Please, please.' Brintha spoke about how her brother was selling paintings to pay for Maria Lopez's operation. 'He is doing everything he can to help people inside. No one is listening to us. It's not fair. He is scared. I could see it in his eyes.' Now Brintha was in tears. She loved Myuran desperately \u2013 he was her rock. He always had been, since she was a little girl.\n\nLater that evening, locked down in his cell, Myuran was alone with his fears and his nightmares. At 8 p.m. he started painting. A dark background, half-finished. Over it was a stark white wooden cross, with red streaking down it. He sent me a picture, and the message, 'Work in progress'.\n\nI knew exactly what it was. I had first seen that dreadful scene seven years earlier. It was the kind of wooden cross to which two Nigerian drug traffickers were strapped before they were executed in June 2008 at Nusakambangan. At the time I was researching a story about the death penalty and how it was carried out, as the three Bali bombers \u2013 Mukhlas, Amrozi and Imam Samudra \u2013 were due to be executed soon. I had seen a series of haunting images, taken by officials, of the two Nigerians as they were led out to be formally given their 72 hours' notice, and measured and weighed for their coffins. There were also night-time photographs of the crosses set up at the killing field. Myuran had seen the images.\n\nAt 6.50 a.m. on 7 February Myuran sent me a photo of the finished painting: a pitch-black background, the blood-streaked cross and stand. 'I just finished that,' he wrote.\n\nI asked why he had decided to paint such a bleak image, which was haunting and powerful.\n\n'I dunno. It feels like one of the last things I would see.'\n\nLater that day something strange happened. A man neither Myuran nor Andrew had spoken to in years \u2013 in fact, since their first verdict and appeals back in 2006 \u2013 arrived at Kerobokan prison. It was their first lawyer, Muhammad Rifan, who had represented them after their arrest and at their trial. They had not parted on good terms, but now, the day after officials had told the Australians they would die that month, here was Rifan at the jail, asking to see them. What could he possibly want?\n\nRifan spoke to both men and spent almost an hour at the prison. He talked at length with Myuran. Andrew spent less then 30 seconds with him; he had church work to do, he said.\n\nI asked Andrew how he felt about Rifan now, given that he was part of the original legal team which supported his initial plea of innocence which went so badly.\n\n'I forgave him a long time ago,' he said.\n\nWhen he emerged from the jail, Rifan gave some clues to the waiting media as to why he had come, hinting that he had new evidence that could save them. The lawyer claimed that both Myuran and Andrew were meant to be sentenced to life in jail, but there had been an 'intervention' that had seen them get the death penalty. The judges had told him, he said, that they had not wanted to sentence the men to death \u2013 but the government had. Now Rifan wanted to pass on information that might save Myuran's and Andrew's lives.\n\nWhile Rifan was promising new information, the families were trying another avenue. They were travelling to Jakarta to see if they could make the difference.\n\nThe day on which Raji, Chinthu, Helen and Michael were to fly from Bali to Jakarta was beset by one major problem: nature. The sky had opened and Jakarta was experiencing a tropical downpour that flooded the streets and jammed the traffic for hours on end. Traffic is dreadful at the best of times in Jakarta, but many times worse as soon as it starts raining.\n\nIt was 9 February and the plan had been for the families to go to the Presidential Palace to plead their case. They were desperate to get their words to President Widodo and the others making decisions. But the flooded streets and pouring rain made that impossible. So instead they held a press conference at a Jakarta hotel.\n\nRaji read a statement on behalf of herself and Helen Chan, begging the president to take the time to look properly into their sons' cases. She spoke eloquently of the good works the two young men were now doing inside Kerobokan prison, and of how they had become role models within the jail system. They were desperate for someone in the president's inner circle to understand the work the Australians were doing, not just to make amends but also to help other prisoners, especially Indonesians.\n\nNext the families met with representatives from Komnas HAM, the Indonesian human rights commission, who promised to do everything possible to pressure the government to call off the executions.\n\nAfter a wet and frustrating Jakarta day, the two exhausted mothers, with their sons, caught an evening flight back to Bali. They had said what they could. Now they just needed someone to listen.\n\nAt this time the legal team was doing everything it possibly could to save the lives of Andrew and Myuran. A letter to President Widodo was prepared, articulating what the lawyers had been arguing all along \u2013 and what Myuran and Andrew themselves had always believed: that they deserved not freedom or a massive sentence cut, but simply the chance to remain alive, as recognition that their rehabilitation could assist Indonesia in its fight against drugs. The plan was to send this letter directly to the president. If it did not make it all the way to him, at least his inner circle might see and read it.\n\nThe lawyers argued that people like Myuran and Andrew, if they weren't executed, could be an asset to the Indonesian state in its war against drugs. If prisoners who were successfully rehabilitated were nevertheless executed, it gave the impression that the government was simply not serious about the value of rehabilitation. And if those on death row had no incentive to change, the result could only be more violence inside prisons, making the job of guards harder and more dangerous.\n\nThe lawyers called on President Widodo to show wisdom and courage. They proposed postponing the execution of prisoners who had demonstrably been rehabilitated. Rather than weakening his anti-drugs reputation in Indonesia, they wrote, this would earn him respect. A policy that offered no prospect of mercy could only harm his attempts to rid Indonesia of illicit drugs. They urged Widodo to adopt a 'midline' position.\n\nWhether the president ever read it or saw the 'Midline Letter' is unknown.\n\n# 9.\n\n# A NATION PLEADS\n\nAfter farewelling his family, Myuran headed back to his cell. The afternoon of 12 February had been lovely. For the first time in a long time he had seen his mum smiling during her visit. The family had even joked around, teasing Myuran. They were all laughing.\n\nThat day the Australian foreign minister, Julie Bishop, had made a powerful and moving speech to the House of Representatives during debate on a bipartisan motion calling for a stay of execution. She pledged to continue to work tirelessly for clemency for both Myuran and Andrew. What was happening to the two men was a grave injustice, she said. She asked people to put themselves in the shoes of Myuran, Andrew and their families. The heroin they attempted to smuggle would have brought untold misery, and possibly death, to many Australians. That was true. But she also paid tribute to the extraordinary reformation both men had achieved, and of the tireless work they were doing at Kerobokan prison. Both were paying their debt to society with dedication and commitment, improving and enriching the lives of other prisoners. So profound was the effect these two Australians had had that fellow inmates had come forward to support them, writing to President Widodo, even offering to take their place in front of the firing squad.\n\nDuring her honest and emotional speech, Bishop also touched on something that was a major irritant to the team working to save Myuran and Andrew: a poll, done by Roy Morgan Research, which suggested that a slim majority of Australians were in favour of the death penalty. The results, broadcast on the ABC's Triple J radio station, on its _Hack_ program, showed that 52 per cent of the 2123 people polled by SMS agreed that Australians convicted of drug trafficking overseas and sentenced to death should be executed.\n\nThe pollster's question had not used the names of the two Australians at Kerobokan. When the result was announced, Andrew and Myuran's legal team were furious. Soon Indonesian politicians, including Attorney-General Prasetyo, were quoting the poll's findings, saying that even Australians thought the two men should be put to death. This gave the Indonesians confidence they were not making a mistake, he said.\n\nTriple J was accused of supplying ammunition to the Indonesians. The radio station defended its decision to publicise the poll results, saying it would be a dangerous precedent for journalists not to report such matters because they were fearful of how politicians might react.\n\nBishop addressed the issue directly, saying serious doubts had been cast on the poll's legitimacy, and that the results, which she did not believe represented the views of the Australian public, had been irresponsibly misused. She said it was deeply discomforting that out-of-context polling might be relied upon by authorities in Jakarta.\n\nHundreds of supportive emails had flooded into Bishop's inbox. More than 30,000 Australians had written to the Indonesian president and government. Five successive Australian prime ministers had, over the years, made representations. Since 7 January, when Myuran's clemency was denied, Prime Minister Abbott and several senior ministers had sent 11 written representations to their Indonesian counterparts as part of a high-level advocacy campaign. In addition, Abbott and Bishop had joined with the Opposition and the Greens and more than 100 parliamentarians to petition the Indonesian ambassador. The letters emphasised Australia's respect for Indonesia's sovereignty, and pointed out the special aspects of Myuran and Andrew's case that warranted mercy. Indonesia could be in no doubt about Australia's position.\n\nIn her speech, Bishop pointed out something the Sukumaran and Chan camps had been highlighting for some time now: the fact that the Indonesian government was working hard to save the lives of up to 200 Indonesian citizens who faced the death penalty abroad, in countries such as Saudi Arabia. It was incongruous for Indonesia to execute foreigners while striving to save its own. There were some 360 Indonesians on death row overseas, according to Migrant Care and other NGOs. 'We urge the Indonesian government to show the same mercy to Andrew and Myuran that it seeks for its citizens in the same situation abroad,' the Foreign Minister told parliament.\n\nMyuran was humbled by Ms Bishop's words \u2013 and by those of her opposite number, Tanya Plibersek, the deputy Labor leader, who delivered her own moving and personal speech calling for clemency. For the first time in a very long time he started to feel better about himself, less ashamed \u2013 as though people were finally seeing him and Andrew for who they had become, not who they had been almost a decade earlier. It seemed unbelievable that his and Andrew's names were being spoken in parliament with such emotion and support. Finally his family could hold their heads up again. For years Myuran had lived with the burden of the shame he had visited upon his mother. He loved her desperately, and all he wanted was for her to be proud of him.\n\nWalking back to his cell, Myuran felt lighter. Ben Quilty was visiting the next day and was planning for Myuran to do a big painting. He had asked all the other prison art students to come in and watch. Perhaps they had more time. Perhaps it wouldn't happen after all.\n\nBut his optimism drained away the minute he was back at his cell. Myuran and Andrew looked at each other, taking it in. The authorities in Bali had just announced that Jakarta had told them to prepare to move Myuran and Andrew to Nusakambangan. They had only just read the urgent text messages I had sent them the minute the announcement was made. I had promised them I would tell them everything I knew, good or bad.\n\nMyuran's heart dropped like a stone. There had been a meeting in Bali that day; another was planned for the next day. As soon as Myuran heard about the meetings, he called Majell Hind; she was already on her way to see and brief them. Myuran and Andrew were starting to feel desperate all over again. The dark shadow that had been hanging over them was back.\n\nMyuran messaged me that night:\n\nYesterday they looked like they were backing off this. Now full steam ahead. Do you have any idea whatsoever how we get ourselves out of this?\n\nOn 12 February, reporters Michael Bachelard and Nick McKenzie published a story in the Fairfax press about two Indonesian judges who had been involved in Bali Nine cases: they had subsequently been sacked for corruption or manipulation of cases.\n\nAchmad Yamanie was a Supreme Court judge who had been on the panel that, in 2011, had rejected Myuran and Andrew's appeal. A month later he was on a panel that reduced the death sentence of an Indonesian drug lord to 15 years' imprisonment. Yamanie was later discharged from the court after falsifying documents to reduce the sentence further, from 15 to 12 years.\n\nAnother judge, Putu Suika, the chairman of the panel of judges who had dealt with the judicial review of one of the Australian cases, was later found to have violated the judicial code of ethics when, midway through a trial, he met the defence lawyer in a karaoke bar and accepted money. The cases called into question the integrity of the Indonesian legal system.\n\n'Can we say because we didn't have enough money we got the death penalty?' Myuran asked me. 'Yeah, can we scream it?'\n\nFor a while Myuran had been thinking about making video messages for his family to watch after he was gone. Chinthu had encouraged him, but Myuran had avoided the task, hoping it would never be necessary. Now, with the latest news, he decided he needed to get it done.\n\nI spoke to him on the phone that night. His voice was sad and listless. He sounded defeated, gutted, like he was ready to give up. 'I am speechless,' he told me desperately. 'I don't even know what to say about this. I don't believe this is happening.' Each day seemed to bring new hope, but then it would be dashed, sometimes within hours. It was traumatising.\n\nMyuran told me he had heard about people who were dying of cancer or other diseases who made videos for their families. He wanted to know if I thought it was a good idea to make them, and what he should talk about. He knew what he wanted to say, but he didn't know how to do it.\n\nI wasn't sure how to answer. Eventually I told him to speak from his heart. 'Tell them all the things you would want them to know if the worst happens and you are executed.'\n\n'You said _if_ it happens,' he said. 'You don't think it's going to happen? Do you think there's hope?' He was desperate for something to hold onto.\n\nThe truth was that, at that time, I did think there was some hope \u2013 but I was also a realist. I knew that Indonesia was unpredictable. Just when you thought you understood it, you realised you knew nothing. I struggled to answer Myuran's questions. I wanted to be honest, without crushing all hope in him.\n\nAndrew was more controlled that evening. A very different man to Myuran, he was hiding his fears, trying to make light of the bad news. Putting on a mask. In a text message he asked what I was writing, and why I was taking so long: 'Come on now, Mrs Wockner, get a crack on \u2013 I wrote my last piece in 20 minutes! LOL.'\n\nIt was about football, his great love, and his team, the Penrith Panthers. He had penned a piece headlined 'Why I Love Rugby League and Penrith Panters'. He sent it to me:\n\nI'm a Westie \u2013 not just your average class Westie, but a Westie born and bred. When we think of a Westie we have an image of a wife-beater, a pair of footy shorts and a stubby in one hand. Welcome to my life in the West! That's right, folks, the heartland where rugby league thrives, with the smell of meat pies and hotdogs warming up at Centrebet Stadium.\n\nWe are almost at the kickoff of the season at Penrith, a club that's been around since 1967, when it first entered the competition. I was fortunate enough to watch them win both premierships and minor premierships.\n\nI was born in the 1980s, a time when Parramatta was at its best and the Newtown Jets had just been relegated. My first taste of league was at an early age: I use to watch Mal Meninga storm over, and players like Jonah Lomu went through the whole English team. The game is a lot different to what it was in the '80s and '90s. It's a lot faster, tougher and the athletes just get bigger and stronger. Just ask 'Fat Man' Vautin, who use to play for every pay cheque \u2013 he could tell you our game has now changed and become a dynamic national sport, and is slowly hitting the international waters. It's amazing to see how much rugby league has spread, not just in the West but internationally.\n\nI'm always going to be a Westie at heart. I love my Panthers, even though for several years they were on the brink of collecting the wooden spoon. The club has now grown; having the likes of Jamie Soward leading the team around the park has been one of their best buys.\n\nWhen Phil Gould released Michael Jennings and Luke Lewis, every Panther was searching for him like they were searching for Bin Laden. The members didn't understand what Phil was trying to bring, and how he wanted a coach to dynamically bring through juniors from the biggest feeder clubs in the competition. In the last three years Phil has turned the club from wooden spooners to (almost) silver spooners. He intelligently recruited Ivan Cleary, a man who took the New Zealand Warriors to many finals. There's a saying: 'What would Jesus do?' Well, what will Phil do? This is what every Panther speaks.\n\nAndrew's knowledge of rugby league was incredible. He followed all the games every season, and knew every player's form. Apparently, some players had visited him in jail when they were on holiday in Bali. Andrew even knew the gossip. He loved being on top of it all, despite being locked up in a Bali jail on death row. At one stage the prisoners had their own tipping competition in the death row tower, the block where Andrew and the other Bali Nine were kept. He also loved getting copies of newspapers and magazines so that he could devour rugby league stories. Another thing he loved was the shopping catalogues that come in newspapers.\n\nBut right now he was preoccupied. Helen and Ken would leave Bali in a few days. The health of both his parents was deteriorating in Bali and they really needed to get home. Helen's eye condition was worsening; she'd had to seek medical treatment three times already during the trip. And it had been a miracle that Ken had made it to Bali this time at all: his trip had been delayed initially, and then, just before he was due to board his flight, he had another fall. But both Andrew's parents were determined to be there for their son. Their last meal at the jail before they left had been the first time in nine years that the whole family \u2013 Mum, Dad, siblings and partners \u2013 had been together. 'So basically it's goodbye for them,' Andrew told me. 'Ahh, not much you can do. It's not goodbye forever.'\n\nEver since the clemencies had been denied, the jail had allowed the Chan and Sukumaran families to visit each weekend, as well as each weekday. Under normal circumstances, weekends were non-visit days. Helen and Ken were due to leave on Sunday evening. This week the jail was not allowing any Saturday visits due to a meeting. There were doubts that they would be allowed in on the Sunday, too. Andrew told me his mum and dad didn't know if they would ever see him again:\n\nMy mother wanted to stand in front of the prison for the next two days if she didn't get to see me just so she could make sure I knew how much she loved me and didn't wanna leave my side.\n\nThankfully, in the end the visit was allowed. When it came time for them to go, Andrew didn't say the word _goodbye_. 'See you later,' he told them.\n\nAndrew asked me if I had seen the movie _John Q._ , starring Denzel Washington. It's the story of a father who is desperate to save his young son's life, after learning the boy has an enlarged heart and needs a transplant, which is not covered by insurance and which the family can't afford. 'Watch it. That's just how my mother and father feel,' Andrew told me.\n\nBefore his parents left Bali, Andrew felt privileged to conduct one last prayer service with them.\n\nMyuran didn't make the videos for his family that night. He told me he felt sick \u2013 he hated it. The guards were now being distant, he noted. Perhaps they knew the execution would be soon.\n\nHe was starting to get depressed. One afternoon he sent me a photo of a self-portrait he had tried to paint that day. It was not good and I struggled to know if it was him or someone else. The look in the eyes was one of defeat. I asked him what it meant. 'I don't know. Maybe it's how I feel.' He wanted to know what I thought would happen next. 'I think they're very committed to this. I don't think they will back down.'\n\nAndrew was devouring the press. He forwarded me the link to a story about the brother of an Indonesian maid whose life had been spared from the death penalty overseas by the Indonesian government's program of saving its own citizens. The maid's brother had accused Indonesia of having a double standard, given its program of executing foreigners at home. He asked how to get the story into the Indonesian press.\n\nWhen, in mid-February I told Myuran that the government had delayed plans to move them to Nusakambangan jail, he was overwhelmed. He felt like he could breathe again. His mum Raji, who had been visiting when he got my message. 'She screamed, but in a good way,' he told me of Raji's overjoyed reaction. He was so grateful to have more time with his family. He started painting, another self-portrait, and sent me a picture of it. He hoped the news the next day was not bad again so he wouldn't ruin it. At the time news of the delay came through he had been clearing out his art studio, organising his art books and personal belongings.\n\nEarlier that day the Australian Consulate briefed the families on logistics, how to get to Nusakambangan jail when the men were moved, what to expect, what to collect from the jail in Bali. Myuran and Andrew had been told to prepare. They each gave the lawyers a set of clothes in case, at the time of the move, they were not allowed to take anything with them.\n\nMyuran was exhausted and fell asleep at 8.30 that night without finishing the painting. 'Yesterday was too hard. It's hard going from such extreme emotions, from really sad to happy,' he told me. Until hearing of the delay, Myuran said he felt like it was all over.\n\nThe next day Myuran wanted to know if I thought they would go ahead with the executions. He sent me the link to a story in the Indonesian press. His sleep was erratic, his emotions were all over the place. He found it hard to get into the zone to keep painting but when he did, it provided him with an escape from the reality, he told me. 'I love being a famous painter, not a famous criminal.' He wanted to do three or four big pieces, including a landscape of Nusakambangan, and asked me to send him photos of it.\n\nWhen I told Myuran a day later that the Indonesian Vice-President had indicated the executions would be delayed three weeks to a month, he was more desperate. 'But are they still going to go through with it?' he wanted to know. He asked me to send a photograph of my son so he could do me a painting.\n\nEvery day there was a new story. The latest was reports that they would be transferred to Nusakambangan by a fighter jet escort. Myuran shook his head. He was trying to focus on his painting but it was getting harder and harder. He had felt like he had some space to breathe 'But I'm scared that it's only really technical reasons [for] why they want to delay the executions and then they go at it again. I've heard they say it was a messy execution last time and they want to do it precisely this time. They're also scared the media will get on the island.'\n\nBy that evening there were new reports that the fighter jets were already in place at Bali airport, ready for the transfer. 'What do you think of this? I think they are serious. I think I'm going to lose the plot soon.' He said he couldn't help but scour the local media for any news of what was going on. I told him to stop reading everything so much. He was nervous and scared. He wanted to know if the fighter jets had left yet.\n\nAndrew continued counselling people and running church services. And he joked about wanting to write a sports column for us in exchange for free newspapers for his family and a lifetime NRL pass to all games. He was having takeaway Indian and it cost him a 'bloody bucketload' he complained. When I suggested someone in his position deserved some treats, he laughed: 'With them prices it set me back four years.'\n\nAs well as the ongoing legal challenges, Veronica Haccou was now dealing with the practicalities of the situation. A year earlier, well before the clemency was denied, and before any talk of executions, she had helped Myuran and Andrew to make their wills. Myuran had been gloomy about it but she told him it was normal \u2013 everyone should have a will. Now it was more serious. She needed his and Andrew's instructions on what to do with their bodies if they were executed.\n\nVeronica also briefed them on the practicalities of the execution. They must not be embarrassed if they lost control of their bodily functions, she said. Veronica never sugar-coated anything; she wasn't that kind of person. She had promised to always be upfront with them and tell them the truth.\n\nMyuran wrote a letter in Veronica's notebook:\n\nAfter they kill me, I would like the following steps to take place in regards to my body. That my body be released immediately to the Australian Embassy staff\/my lawyer\/my family for burial in Australia. I don't wish for my body to be dealt with by the Indonesian authorities. I do not want them to conduct a postmortem in Indonesia. I do not want my body to be cremated.\n\nMyuran Sukumaran\n\nAndrew wrote and signed an identical letter.\n\n# 10.\n\n# THE FIGHT INTENSIFIES\n\nMyuran didn't know whether to laugh or cry. Two fighter jets were flying menacingly low over Kerobokan, their engines screaming. It was absurd.\n\nRaji, though, was terrified. She pulled her son inside the nearest room, desperate to hide him from the soldiers who, she was sure, were about to snatch him away for execution. She was trembling, panicking. Was it all about to happen? For weeks now, she and the rest of the family had visited Myuran every day as the authorities talked tough. Apparently, he and Andrew were soon to be moved to Nusakambangan in Central Java, but no date had been given.\n\nThree Sukhoi fighter jets, from Indonesia's military, and based in South Sulawesi, had arrived at the airport, along with a CN-295 transport aircraft and helicopters. For days the military had denied they would be involved in the transfer of the two Australian prisoners. The presence now of all this hardware, according to military spokesmen, was a coincidence. Another said it was for a joint exercise with air force personnel based in Bali, or for routine patrols securing Indonesia's borders. But the jets flew so low over the jail that day, scaring people witless, that no one was in any doubt about what was happening: the transfers would be conducted by the military.\n\nMyuran ran out to look at them. 'They are crazy, they are crazy,' he said to his family, shaking his head. 'What are we going to do? We are in prison!' To Chinthu he said, 'Only weak men need to put on shows of strength like that.'\n\nPolice and justice ministry officials went to the airport to inspect the transport aircraft to see if it could be used to fly the Australians and the entourage of officials who would accompany them to Java. If it was unsuitable, a commercial jet would have to be chartered. There were rumours that the transfer was turning into a tussle between the police and the military, long-time adversaries; the organisation that ran the operation would receive a bigger slice of the budgetary pie.\n\nIt was 24 February, seven weeks after Myuran's clemency had been denied, and it seemed everything was coming to a head. Myuran was stressed. It was a bit much, he said, using the military for two low-level criminals like him and Andrew. 'It really shows how insecure they are,' he told me. 'They must feel really small.' It was weird, he said, how the whole country was jumping on them. Myuran felt like he and Andrew were being used to show how tough Indonesia could be on Australia.\n\nThe scariest thing was not knowing when the authorities would come and take him and Andrew. It could be any time at all.\n\nWas he giving up hope?\n\nLiving day-to-day like this was difficult. 'In the morning you just do your normal thing and get ready to be shipped off somewhere,' he said. 'It's like a sudden thing, back and forth. Tuesday last week feels like so long ago.'\n\nHe was feeling dejected. They had done so much but it wasn't making any difference.\n\n'You know what really upsets me?' he continued. 'We got a really good lawyer, we did all the right things, we rehabilitated, we did everything, but they would not give us a reduction of sentence. And worse people get out.' Drug criminals came and went from Kerobokan, many who had been caught with far more drugs than he and Andrew. People with 20 times more had received remissions or been freed.\n\nMyuran had been told by a lawyer (not one from his own legal team) that, on appeal, for $200,000, he could have got a light sentence. He wished so much that they had taken a different road at the very beginning. Myuran wished that, instead of denying any knowledge of the drugs and refusing to give evidence, he had admitted guilt from the moment he was arrested. Things would be so different now, he said, if he had done that.\n\nAndrew heard the jets fly over the jail again that night. He joked that the pilots would have needed night-vision goggles. On the inequitable system that was determining his fate, Andrew offered this observation:\n\nLaws are like spider webs: if a fly or mosquito gets near, it gets trapped, but if a wasp or a bee goes near, it breaks it and leaves. The same applies to the law: if a poor man strays he gets caught, while the rich and powerful exempt themselves from the law and walk away.\n\nAndrew was reading the Christian book _Traveling Light_ , by Max Lucado, which focused on Psalm 23 and the release of our burdens. He told me he only read Christian, history and medical books. 'I like to learn, not imagine,' he said; novels were a waste of space in the head.\n\nI asked why he read medical books.\n\n'Coz I don't like being checked by a vet. I would rather operate on myself.'\n\nSometimes Andrew's comments, in our chats, were out of left field. Just after we talked about the books he was reading, he wanted to know: was he unique among other prisoners I had come across? 'I'm not exactly Ted Bundy,' he said, referring to the American serial killer, a man who confessed to 30 homicides and was executed in 1989.\n\nThat day, as the lawyers and family visited the jail, Andrew took Veronica's notebook and penned a note for only her: 'Can I discuss marriage?'\n\nShe nodded, and motioned that they go for a walk to speak privately.\n\nAndrew had decided he wanted to marry Febyanti Herewila, a young Indonesian pastor he had first met back in 2012 inside Kerobokan prison. Feby, from Yogyakarta, had come to minister to the prisoners. She had run prayer groups and youth ministries in Indonesia and in Singapore, and a friend asked her to visit Kerobokan.\n\nFor two years she and Andrew were just friends, but early in 2014 they started a relationship. Before this she hadn't realised he was even interested in her. Then someone else pointed out to Feby that every time she visited the jail, Andrew, who had a kitchen set up at the jail, cooked for her.\n\nWhen Andrew later asked why she had been blind to his attraction, she told him it was because he was always kind to everyone, and always cooked for everyone.\n\nFeby began visiting Andrew regularly, and the couple shared their theological studies and backgrounds. An intensely private person, Feby revealed their relationship only to a small group. She was concerned for her family, who emanated from a Javanese family with links to the royal court in Yogyakarta. But the couple began planning a future, which included the establishment of a community centre and school on the remote Indonesian island of Sabu, west of Timor.\n\nThe couple had become engaged ten days ago, but those who were there for the small engagement party \u2013 a cake, red roses and a ring \u2013 had been sworn to secrecy. The couple wanted it kept private. There was so much else going on politically that they decided the happy news didn't need to be made public.\n\nAfter the engagement party Andrew asked Veronica to come with him and Feby as he got his hair cut at the jail barber. He was excited to have his new fianc\u00e9e with him to advise on how his hair should be cut. He loved Feby deeply, and now to be engaged to her left him beaming. He was also keen that Feby and Veronica become friends. It was as though he were thinking ahead to a time when he was gone: he wanted to make sure she was comforted and cared for by someone with whom he had been very close.\n\nNow Andrew asked Veronica to investigate how he and Feby could marry in jail.\n\nVeronica promised to do so.\n\nRaji was having nightmares. She kept thinking about her son's dead body being handed to her. She couldn't stop thinking about the violent way he would be killed. Every night she got down on her knees to pray that the president, the attorney-general and all those who controlled the fate of Myuran and Andrew would look again at their cases and see how unique they were, and why they were deserving of mercy. She could not understand how the ending of a life could be authorised so quickly.\n\nThe family was falling apart. They sat together but couldn't look into each other's eyes: it was just too sad. Chinthu felt it was an awful punishment to inflict upon his mother, who did not deserve such searing pain. Sam was so sad but couldn't seem to find the words to express it. The whole family was heartbroken. They had no idea how much time they had left with Myuran, and couldn't bear to think about never seeing his smile again.\n\nSo desperate was Raji that, when she saw Bali's chief prosecutor, Momock Bambang Samiarso, inside the jail one day, she approached him, following him from room to room, trying to get him to listen. Momock was involved in organising the prisoners' move from Bali to Java in readiness for execution. Raji begged him not to move her son, not to kill him. Momock spoke no English, but one of his deputies, Olopan Nainggolan, translated. Olopan told Raji, 'You pray, you pray.' Like the Sukumaran and Chan families, Olopan was a Christian.\n\nHelen Chan was also haunted. According to Andrew, she hadn't slept properly in the decade since he had been arrested. She suffered from insomnia and nightmares; Andrew was saddened that her pain would only get worse. She didn't speak to him about her nightmares but he knew they didn't end well.\n\nIn the midst of such dreadful news, Myuran was keen to tell me that he had almost raised enough money for the operation for Maria. After selling a portrait of Maria and a self-portrait of Myuran, they had raised $2750. He had two more to sell, and they only needed another $1000. I was amazed that he could remain so focused on raising the money for Maria's operation when he had just been told he would be dead within weeks.\n\nThat same day the paintings were sold. Two long-term Australian residents of Bali, Aki and Samantha Kotzamichalis, had bought them. Maria Lopez sobbed uncontrollably when she heard that the money had been raised. (She went on to have the operation, and remains in Kerobokan prison today.)\n\nAki had been associated with the renowned Bali restaurant Kudeta since it started, and now he called for suggestions on where to hang the paintings. He also added his voice to the calls for mercy for Myuran and Andrew. 'The Indonesian prison system has done a remarkable job rehabilitating these boys,' he told the media. 'They are not serial killers with no remorse whatsoever... their remorse is proven by their actions. They have tried to do the best for themselves and others after making a huge mistake in their younger years! We as humans are surely not that barbaric. Leave them there to help others for as long as is required.'\n\nAndrew sauntered over to the governor of Kerobokan prison, Sudjonggo, and handed him a card. Written in Indonesian, it read: 'Get out of jail free!' It was from the local version of Monopoly. With a straight face, Andrew asked a puzzled Sudjonggo: 'Can I use it now?'\n\nAt first the governor looked serious \u2013 then he realised the joke. 'Sorry, it's not that easy,' he replied.\n\nQuick as a flash, Andrew asked Sudjonggo if he wanted to buy the card instead.\n\nSudjonggo laughed. Despite the uncertainty and fear caused by his looming death sentence, Andrew was somehow maintaining his characteristic sense of humour.\n\nAnother time Andrew tried to convince some guards that he'd been a police officer in his former life. He pulled out his Police Credit Union ATM card and claimed that the numbers on it were his police ID. He was amazed when they believed him.\n\nAndrew often joked with me that I would miss him being a smartarse when he was gone. He was always looking out for funny cartoons to show people. Like the four-panel cartoon about a prison escape. In the first panel we see a sad-looking prisoner in a cell with just a window and a door. Panel two shows the prisoner using a crayon to draw a ladder on the wall beneath the window. Next we see the guards coming into the cell, with question marks above their heads; they can't see their prisoner, who is hiding behind the door. In panel four the guards are climbing the ladder and looking out the window \u2013 while the prisoner escapes out the door. We joked that he'd better start drawing a ladder.\n\nEarlier that day, BRIMOB, the paramilitary wing of the police, had conducted a dress rehearsal of how the two Australians would be moved from Kerobokan jail to the airport for their flight to Nusakambangan, where the executions would take place. It was 27 February. Two policemen played the role of Andrew and Myuran. Their hands were cuffed with cable ties. The officers wore helmets, their faces covered by black masks. There were guns everywhere as the two actors were walked into Barracuda armoured personnel carriers. The 'prisoners' wore hats. At one stage a police officer pulled the hat of one of them down, covering his face. They were leaving nothing to chance in the simulation, which was a massive show of force.\n\nAndrew was intrigued, and wanted to know all about it. 'Were they violent with them?' he asked me \u2013 and then joked that he might get a souvenir hat out of it. When I told him the police intended to use armoured vehicles to transport them from the jail to the airport, he was amazed. 'Terrorists don't even get this treatment,' he said. 'Just insane really.'\n\nFor his part, Myuran was in a grey mood. It should have been a day for celebration \u2013 Curtin University in Perth had awarded him an Associate Degree in Fine Arts. All his hard work had paid off. But he wasn't feeling good. It had been an emotionally draining period, and it was only getting worse. If dress rehearsals were being conducted, Myuran knew, a move away from Bali was nearer than ever. It was getting harder to remain positive.\n\nLizzie Love told Myuran how her first husband had died in a plane crash when she was 23. Myuran was again talking frequently and deeply with Lizzie, with whom he had now reconciled. Myuran suggested there was nothing after death. Lizzie told him she wasn't religious but she believed there was something.\n\nThe day of her husband's death Lizzie had been playing water volleyball and took her wedding ring off so she wouldn't lose it during the game. There had been nothing wrong with it. That night the plane crashed. Lizzie heard about it on the news and contacted authorities. They told her that her husband and his father had been at the front of the plane and were most likely dead but many bodies had not yet been recovered.\n\nThe next morning, as Lizzie sat looking at her husband's photo and watching the news, she was willing her husband for a sign of whether he was alive or dead. The phone rang. She grabbed it with her left hand and immediately spotted her wedding ring, gold with a layer of white gold over the top. The white gold was cracked right through. She knew then her husband was dead. The cracked ring was the sign.\n\nShe told Myuran how, in the months and years that followed, she would get a sense \u2013 like a smell \u2013 out of the blue and in the middle of a conversation. It was the smell of the trees in autumn in Grass Valley in the US where she had lived. Lizzie felt the presence of her husband and it gave her peace. She told Myuran not to be scared because it was an okay place that he would go, if the worst happened. Her husband Jim would be there to meet him. Life was not over. It was a new journey.\n\n# 11.\n\n# MERCY, PLEASE\n\nThe letter was written by Kerobokan jail prisoner Francois Jacques Giuily and addressed to the Indonesian president. It read:\n\nI hereby confirm that Andrew Chan has changed my life since I have been here at LP Kerobokan. He has a strong spiritual power and he has helped me a lot through his teaching. His execution would be a disaster. If you finally decide to execute him, I ask to take his place. I write this in good health condition and without any pressure and with all my heart.\n\nJacques was not the only prisoner to write to President Widodo begging to take Andrew's place before the firing squad. Another, Rico Richardo, wrote: 'If the honorable Bapak [Mr] President insist to execute Andrew Chan, I Rico Richardo as an Indonesian citizen, am ready to replace Andrew Chan as death row convict that will [be] executed.' Rico went on to say how Andrew had helped save his life only the month before. After Rico had fallen ill, it was Andrew who insisted he be taken to hospital and who paid the balance of the fees for his medical treatment. 'So what I can convey to the Honorable Bapak President, then even though Andrew Chan has been sentenced to death, he is still aware of other people's fate, like me for example,' Rico continued. 'Andrew Chan is never thinking about himself.'\n\nIn fact, there were many letters from many prisoners whose lives had been saved or turned around by the work of Andrew and Myuran. In an outpouring of emotion, they had decided to write to President Widodo to beg for mercy. They were hurting, knowing that their mentors, friends and teachers were about to be killed.\n\nIt was extraordinary, a mark of the men Andrew and Myuran had become that fellow prisoners were not only supporting them, but were offering to take their places in front of the firing squad. For the writers, it was a risk to be penning such words, in defiance of authority, in letters that were copied to the media for publication. They didn't care about the repercussions; they were simply desperate to save the two men.\n\nManuel Junior said he was sad and shocked when he heard that Andrew was to be executed. He described Andrew as a 'father figure, mentor, lecturer and a warm teacher guiding his children'. Suyoto Iskan said he deplored what was happening:\n\nAndrew Chan has a compassionate soul. I was a desperate person. But then Andrew Chan strengthened my faith. I became a happy and hopeful person. Andrew Chan is remarkable. Andrew Chan is needed by Christians in the prison. Andrew Chan baptized me in the prison. Andrew Chan has turned desperate souls into hopeful and happy souls.\n\nAnd those who had freed themselves from drugs and found peace in a safe environment while learning to paint under Myuran's tutelage were equally glowing in their references. Nopi Nicholas wrote about his own stupidity in using drugs, which had landed him in prison with a heavy sentence. He was depressed and stressed about his wife and six children. Someone suggested he go to the _bengker_ , as the art workshop was known, to meet Myuran. The Australian mentored Nopi in his painting, and he became closer to God with Andrew's help. Nopi had learned how to be patient, he wrote, and how to respect others, love and forgive.\n\nWayan Sudiasa said that many painters would be born at Kerobokan prison every year with Myuran's help. Others, who had left prison having learned to paint, were drug-free and had become good and productive people. 'He is the convict that was sentenced to death by the judge,' Wayan wrote, 'who became a mentor, teacher and guide of painting activity in Kerobokan prison. Children who are mentored become successful and have a better life and benefit the nation.'\n\nA former prisoner who signed his name with an X questioned the point of rehabilitation if there was no chance at all for clemency. He quoted the Indonesian Correctional Services' own goal: 'The correctional system is a series of law enforcement that is aimed at the inmate realising their wrongdoing, fixing themselves and not committing crime again so that they can be accepted by the community again and have an active role in their development and can live normally as a good and responsible person.' This prisoner urged the president to consider Myuran's and Andrew's rehabilitation, and how they had touched the lives of so many people. 'You can use these boys as an example to spearhead your campaign against drugs. They can be the positive for change in Indonesia. Don't shoot the messengers.' Andrew and Myuran were worth more to Indonesia alive than dead, he wrote. 'You have the power to harness all the good they can do and commute their sentence to life. Have you considered meeting them? Talking to the prison officials, family and friends?'\n\nFormer prisoner X touched on something that those in jail already knew, but which was often not spoken of publicly. 'I was given the opportunity to pay big $$$ for my freedom,' he claimed. And he went further: if the president wanted to arrest the real criminal people, X would be happy to pass on information. He claimed to have the names of police, judges, prosecutors, lawyers, gang members and officials who were profiting from what he said was a prolific drug trade inside and outside Indonesian prisons 'with absolute impunity'. These people were the real problem.\n\nPrisoner X finished by noting that Indonesia held a seat on the United Nations Human Rights Council; it had recently been re-elected for a fourth term that would run until 2017. 'There are human rights abuses going on in your prisons,' X wrote. 'I saw it with my own eyes. Andrew and Myuran are a shining example of what men can achieve if they have a genuine desire to reform and become persons of great integrity. Please let these men LIVE!'\n\nThese letters to the president were moving. Andrew lamented that Widodo probably wouldn't read them. Still he was proud of the work he had done within the church community at the jail, telling me that not one of the prisoners he had counselled had returned to jail after their release \u2013 at least not as a prisoner. Many of the ex-inmates did return to visit Andrew when they could. He told me:\n\nWe got a really good community at church now that I have led for the last ten years. A lot of these guys had nothing when they walked in \u2013 their families were broken. I'm just lucky that Jesus equipped me so that I started up foundations inside here so if prisoners get sick, or need assistance for their family outside, we have an agreement that funds are to be used for important factors like sending kids to school, helping buy food, milk and so forth, for their kids and wife outside. I helped build this network for the last five years, and it's helped place kids in school, hospitals and many other things. But as I said, a man can talk himself up; you should ask around yourself what has been implemented.\n\nAndrew was keen that the letters from the prisoners were given to the Indonesian press. He was only too aware that they needed to raise the profile of their good works in the Indonesian media.\n\nIt was around this time that a story published in the Fairfax press claimed that a mastermind of the Bali Nine syndicate had won more than $5 million in the lottery a few years earlier. The man, who was not identified, lived in Sydney and had never been prosecuted in relation to the Bali Nine heroin.\n\nMyuran said he had no clue who the story referred to, but described him as 'amazingly lucky'. 'Some people are just so blessed,' he said. Both he and Andrew had always maintained they were just above the courier level in the operation, and well below that of the real bosses; they'd been paid to come to Bali like everyone else. They had never paid for the drugs, owned them or sold them.\n\nAndrew wanted to know where the hell the information had come from \u2013 he had never heard of it before. 'This story just sounds crazy, LOL,' he messaged me. 'I really couldn't tell you if it's true or not.' He said he would pray for whoever it was. 'If that's the case then yeah, it's pretty messed up, but hey, that's him and I'll pray for the fella, whoever it is.' Andrew wasn't being generous, he said; over time he had learned to forgive those who had hurt him. 'You know why I never said anything in court about the others?' he asked me 'Coz I told them, if I was them, I would probably say exactly what they said about me.'\n\nAndrew was referring to evidence given by other Bali Nine members, during their own trials in the Denpasar District Court: that Andrew had threatened them into carrying the drugs that fateful night. Andrew said he had forgiven them all a long time ago, and held no grudges. But what about the fact that some had now retracted their allegations of threats, admitting they had made them up? It was pointless to dwell on that now, Andrew said. It wouldn't change anything.\n\nThe legal team was now working on its latest legal challenge: an application to the State Administrative Court in Jakarta, where they planned to challenge the president's blanket refusal of their clemency requests. The lawyers said their challenge was not some half-baked last-minute measure but raised 'genuine substantive issues of fairness and justice'. It would be a grave miscarriage of justice, they warned, if the executions were to proceed before the court had determined whether the president's decision to refuse clemency accorded with the law.\n\nThe application argued that Andrew, Myuran and the others on the execution lists had not had an opportunity for their clemency applications to be properly and genuinely considered, thus denying them of natural justice.\n\nThe present Indonesian Government has consistently stated that clemency has been and will be refused for drug offenders as a matter of policy. It is absolutely clear from the statements of numerous Government officials, including the President himself, that it is the blanket application of that policy that has resulted in clemency being denied. The merits of Andrew and Myuran's case simply have not been considered.\n\nThe lawyers highlighted the fact that the Indonesian attorney-general had pronounced that the clemency decisions were not reviewable by the State Administrative Court, and that the power to grant clemency was the prerogative of the president alone.\n\n'It is not for the AG to announce before the court hearing,' the Australian legal team claimed. 'A fundamental aspect of the rule of law is that all of the legal questions raised on the application are for the court alone to determine.'\n\nThere were strong arguments, the team claimed, that in refusing clemency in the way he did, the president had failed to comply with or have sufficient regard for the clemency laws. There was no evidence that the president had considered the advice of the Supreme Court, despite the statute requiring him to do so.\n\nThe lawyers touched on another matter, which was now being aired in Indonesia and around the globe. The accuracy of the drug emergency statistics so passionately cited by the president and his ministers were now being questioned. The lawyers called them 'dubious statistics'.\n\nA PhD candidate in social intervention at Oxford University, Claudia Stoicescu, had published a piece on The Conversation website disputing the figures, saying they were 'based on studies with questionable methods and vague measures'. Stoicescu dissected the figures. The claim that there were 4.5 million drug users in Indonesia needing rehabilitation was a projection of the number of people predicted to use drugs in 2013, from the University of Indonesia's Centre for Health Research and the National Narcotics Agency (or BNN) as part of a 2008 study. Stoicescu argued that the stats did not estimate the number of people unable to manage their drug use, and could not be generalised to show drug use across the population. Moreover, Stoicescu wrote, the claim that 40 to 50 people died each day from drug use was even more problematic. Indonesia did not collect reliable drug overdose statistics.\n\nThe leaders of the BNN made no secret of the fact that they wanted drug traffickers executed. Many wondered why they didn't use Myuran and Andrew as anti-drugs ambassadors, holding them up as poster boys who could teach about the dangers of drugs. A similar approach had been used by the counter-terrorism police back in 2003, in the aftermath of the first Bali bombing: Ali Imron had eschewed his radical past and, unlike his brothers, Amrozi and Mukhlas, admitted his guilt and turned police resource. While his brothers got the death penalty for their role in the killings of over 200 people in two Kuta nightclubs, Ali Imron got a life sentence after admitting his guilt and apologising. So too did another accused man, Mubarok. The sparing of their lives came with a rider: testify against the others and become a force for good, educating others about the evils of terrorism and about the true meaning of _jihad_. Imron and Mubarok remain anti-terrorism ambassadors today.\n\nMyuran wondered if the lawyers could suggest them as anti-drugs ambassadors, although he was aware that it might be considered a last-minute stunt. His mind was going round and round now, and he felt that authorities were determined not to listen, no matter what. How could the team give them a reason to back down?\n\n'I was in a bad mood yesterday,' he told me. 'I said something really stupid \u2013 I hope it doesn't get me into trouble. I asked how much would I have to pay for them to let me out.'\n\nThe pressure was getting to him. 'Before, I felt like I deserved it,' he said. 'Now I feel like they are not doing the right thing.' It was unfair and unjust. He felt like the whole saga was unfolding like a movie. 'I hope this movie has a happy ending.' Why were the Indonesians working so hard to save their own citizens on death row overseas, but wouldn't spare them?\n\nMyuran was trying to think of new ways to show that he deserved to live. 'For a long time I was thinking about renting a shop somewhere in the outside,' he told me, 'and turning it into an art space for ex-prisoner artists to go to work after they are released. I'm thinking about whether I should try to push it through or not. I don't have enough money from the sales of paintings, but I could probably borrow it. But would it look bad if I borrowed it?'\n\nHe wanted to show the president that he and Andrew were not in the same league as other prisoners \u2013 those who continued operating their drug networks from inside jail, right under the nose of the authorities. 'How can we make him understand?' Myuran wanted to know.\n\nBy this time Myuran was in a cell by himself. Of the original Bali Nine, only five remained at Kerobokan prison. Renae Lawrence had been transferred to another Bali jail after authorities claimed she threatened to kill a guard (something she has always denied). Scott Rush was also sent to another prison in Bali; he requested a transfer, apparently to escape the temptations of drugs. Martin Stephens and Tan Duc Tanh Nguyen had been moved to a jail in Java. Andrew was sharing a cell with an Iranian drug trafficker on a life sentence. Michael Czugaj and Si Yi Chen were cellmates; Matthew Norman had his own cell.\n\nMyuran had taken over the cell previously used by Martin Stephens and Tan Duc Thanh Nguyen, and a Nigerian who was also on death row. When they moved out Myuran painted the walls bright blue. In many ways it was not unlike any bedroom in an Indonesian home. He had a desk with a reading lamp, and an office chair. A shelf on the wall held some of his precious art textbooks. There was an easel, and on the desk sat lumps of clay. He'd been getting into moulding clay before the clemency denial came through.\n\nThe only things on the walls were a painting \u2013 Myuran's first Archibald Prize entry, from 2013 \u2013 and a drawing done by Ben Quilty. Myuran had never plastered his walls with images of his family; he didn't like the guards or other people poring over his photos. They were private.\n\n# 12.\n\n# THE LAST FLIGHT\n\n'Thank you for choosing Wings Air. Hope you have a pleasant flight. In front of you, you will see an exit door...'\n\nThe flight steward, in a short red skirt and black stockings, demonstrated the safety features of the plane. She pointed out a safety card in the seat pocket, which contained, among other things, prayers from various religions, should there be an on-board incident and passengers felt the need to pray.\n\nAnd all this she said with a straight face. Perhaps the absurdity of it had not registered. Or perhaps she was, as Myuran thought, terrified of him and Andrew.\n\n'Here are the exits, should you need to escape...'\n\nThere wasn't much chance of that, Myuran thought, since he and Andrew were in handcuffs and shackles, and surrounded by heavily armed paramilitary policemen in balaclavas. In fact, the plane was packed with police and prosecutors. Some took selfies with the now infamous Australians.\n\nAfter weeks of speculation, Andrew and Myuran were finally on the plane to Nusakambangan. In the end, the government had decided to charter a commercial airliner for the flight. Escorting them from Bali to Cilacap, in Central Java, were the fighter jets they had seen several weeks before. For the two Australians, it was their first time on a plane in a decade. The last had been in 2005, when they travelled from Sydney to Bali in preparation for their ill-fated drug run.\n\nAs dawn broke on Wednesday, 4 March 2015, the sky above Bali turning a delicate shade of pink, the Wings Air plane sat at the end of the runway and waited, engines running, propellers turning. The hold-up was not explained. Someone said it was because one of the fighter jet escorts had had a mishap back at the hangar; apparently its parachute had deployed accidently. Two fighter jets had already taken off. Finally, the third fighter jet taxied around in front of the red and white Wings Air plane and hurtled down the runway. Wings Air took off after it.\n\nAndrew and Myuran were on their last ever flight. But there was little chance to look out the windows and see the majestic scenery of Bali \u2013 the beaches, Mount Agung, Kintamani. It had been a long time since they saw any of that. The prisoners truly believed they were going to be executed soon after arriving at their destination. On the plane with them were 20 BRIMOB officers and another 30 or so prosecutors and officials.\n\nBefore they had taken off, senior Bali police officers \u2013 men who would not be making the journey with them but who had organised the transfer \u2013 took selfies with both Andrew and Myuran. 'Smile, smile,' one officer said to Andrew. Myuran felt like every person on the plane took a photo with him during the trip.\n\nWhen these photos later found their way into the media, the Australian government was horrified. It was like some kind of ghoulish circus. Then there was the spectacle of the fighter jet escort. No other prisoner being taken to Nusakambangan had been accompanied by such a show of military might.\n\nSuch was the security that Andrew and Myuran were not even permitted to use the toilet during the flight. When one of them needed to pee he was told he would need to do so in a water bottle, sitting in his seat. A giggling guard held the bottle for him as he urinated. Then the policeman had to ask his boss to discard it in the toilet. Both Andrew and Myuran were held by the arm all the way.\n\nAndrew dozed off for part of the journey. It was impossibly hot. Unable to take off his jacket because he was shackled, he was sweating profusely. The armed officer next to him gave him a hankie to wipe away the perspiration.\n\nAs they landed, the 'too cute stewardess', as Myuran called her, made another announcement. 'Welcome to Cilacap. I hope you enjoyed your flight. Please do not leave any of your possessions behind.' She reminded them that the time in Cilacap was one hour behind Bali.\n\nAndrew adjusted his plastic wristwatch. He had left his good watch, of which he was incredibly proud, and his ring, with Veronica the day before, for her to pass to Feby. As they prepared to disembark, Andrew reminded his guard to get his hankie.\n\nCilacap airport was on high alert. The tiny airstrip and surrounds were swarming with armed police, who, at gunpoint, warned off reporters and photographers who were getting too close. Clearly, this was serious business: handcuffs and leg irons were essential for transporting two prisoners who had never tried to escape. These men were not terrorists, although the Barracuda tanks awaiting them at Cilicap suggested otherwise.\n\nAndrew and Myuran were bundled down the steps of the plane and led into the waiting tanks \u2013 the same kind that had ferried them from Kerobokan jail to the airport. They were pushed to the ground, and guns were trained on them. One guard asked Andrew what his case was: was this his first time in jail?\n\nAndrew couldn't believe it. There was nothing to do but see the funny side of it.\n\nOne of the guards looked at Myuran. 'This is the guy that said people can change,' he said to his fellow officers. The painting had, by now, been shown to the media.\n\nMyuran and Andrew were made to keep their heads down during the drive from the airport to the port of Wijayapura, where the two tanks were driven onto the jail ferry. They saw nothing of the journey to Besi prison, one of several on the island of Nusakambangan.\n\nAfter the easy-going pace of Kerobokan prison, Besi was like another world. The men were weighed and measured by a doctor. Their watches were removed. They were put into one cell. Unlike at Kerobokan, there were no beds, just thin mattresses on the floor. The cell was about five metres by six metres. It had a toilet, running water and thick walls; the front wall was a cage.\n\nNo one had said anything about when they would be executed. For the first time in a decade, they were completely shut off from the outside world. In Bali they had access to news, and visitors almost every day. Here they had nothing. Andrew and Myuran were terrified.\n\nThat same day, Julian and Veronica caught a flight from Bali to Yogyakarta, and then drove to Cilacap. They spent the entire day trying to find out where Andrew and Myuran were being held. They knew they were on Nusakambangan, but not which prison. No one would tell them. Meetings with various officials went on for hours, with no result. The Australian embassy couldn't find out either. It wasn't until the next day the lawyers discovered it was Besi.\n\nOnly two people \u2013 Majell Hind and Veronica \u2013 would be permitted to visit the prisoners. Eventually the officials agreed to allow Julian to go as well. But no family would be permitted. When Majell, Veronica and Julian first saw them, Andrew didn't look well at all. Myuran looked stunned.\n\nAs they walked in, Andrew stared at Veronica as if he didn't recognise her. Then she realised \u2013 he wasn't wearing his glasses or contact lenses. He couldn't see. He walked to Veronica and started hugging her, squeezing her tight. The hug went on and on. Knowing that security cameras were recording everything, Veronica started to feel uneasy: such a long hug wasn't normal in this culture.\n\nAndrew whispered in her ear. 'I've got something for you \u2013 can you take it, please?' He passed her some pieces of paper \u2013 his goodbye letters for his family.\n\nHe and Myuran were angry and wanted to know where the lawyers had been. Raheem, a Nigerian prisoner in the same cell block, had been visited by his girlfriend yesterday but no one had come to see them.\n\n'Why couldn't you come?' Andrew asked. 'If you guys didn't come, I was planning to do a hunger strike for two days because the other guy got a visitor.' Things were dire and no one knew what was going on.\n\nStill, the Australians hadn't lost their sense of humour. At Kerobokan prison, Andrew had been diligent about replying to every letter he received. Myuran, always busy painting, hadn't \u2013 and now he felt bad about that. 'Can you redirect my mail so I can answer them now that I have time?' he joked. And he wanted to know why he didn't get lamingtons. 'I'm shocked I didn't get lamingtons,' he told the lawyers. 'Being on death row is a lot more fun in Bali.' This point was further illustrated when one of the guards had told them that sometimes cobra snakes found their way into the toilet. It was a frightening prospect they shared with their lawyers.\n\nMyuran and Andrew had not known that day would be their last at Kerobokan until the sun was almost down. Their families had spent the day visiting. After they left, Julian and Veronica had remained behind; no one had hurried them out. As they sat and chatted at a table, some guards sauntered over to say goodbye as their shifts finished. But this wasn't a normal farewell: it was a genuine goodbye. Veronica sensed the guards' different mood. She had been visiting Kerobokan jail now for years and knew their characters. Some were hiding tears as they clocked off. Before long it was obvious that the Australians were being moved that night or the next day.\n\nOutside, the chief prosecutor, Momock Bambang Samiarso, had made the announcement: Myuran and Andrew would be transferred to Nusakambangan in the morning. It ended weeks of speculation. Julian and Veronica were permitted to stay until 6 p.m. They tried to calm Myuran and Andrew, who were getting anxious.\n\n'I promise you that we will find you,' Veronica said. 'Just go, and don't resist. When you return to your room, start packing \u2013 take only the things you need, just a small bag.' She emphasised again that they should not resist. 'Just go.'\n\nAndrew and Myuran went back to their cells to pack and say their goodbyes. If they were going to be dead within days, they needed to talk to people. Both spent hours on their phones, talking and texting.\n\nWhen I spoke to Myuran that night he was calm but despondent. His voice was flat, resigned. All he wanted was for his mum to be proud of him. He was upset that she was now so stressed and in such pain. He wished he could take it away. Most of his belongings had already been taken out of the prison by his family, he said, in anticipation of this day. He had already sorted out who would take over all the rehabilitation projects once he was gone, and how he hoped they would continue.\n\nHe lamented that all his work on the projects now meant little: 'They say it's all really good but it doesn't mean anything in the end.' Over the past few days he had painted portraits of some of the people in charge of his fate \u2013 the chief prosecutor, the minister of justice and human rights, the attorney-general. But he hadn't yet thought about what he would ask for when the time came for his last request. It was all too hard.\n\nMyuran spoke of his life over the past ten years, joking that he could write a TV reality show about what went on inside Kerobokan jail. People would never believe it, he told me, but it would rate like crazy. Like the time a cake was brought in for the departing Schapelle Corby. Pictures of the cake \u2013 which only arrived after she had already left the jail, and which she therefore never actually saw \u2013 ended up in the women's magazines, which were desperate for any titbits about her last days at Kerobokan. The money earned from the sale of those pictures went into the prison kitty to help fund the rehabilitation programs. Myuran hadn't arranged any of it but was happy to get a funding windfall from what was essentially a fabricated story. The guards enjoyed the cake and everyone laughed themselves silly at how gullible the press could be.\n\nSomehow, Myuran had managed to run the rehabilitation projects and navigate the prison bureaucracy at the same time, as well as keeping any drug merchants out of his art studio. He abhorred the dealers and the gangs who ran the jail. And he had a short fuse, as fellow Bali Nine member Renae Lawrence found out once when the pair argued.\n\nUnlike other Bali Nine members, whose relationships were quickly publicised, Myuran kept his romantic attachments hidden. One early girlfriend was a prisoner in the women's block, but the relationship did not end well. He had another close friend, a former prisoner, but insisted it was not intimate. They needed each other, he said. 'She needed somebody to care for her and I needed somebody to help me,' he said. 'I filled the gaps for what she needed and she filled the gaps for me.' He asked her not to come to Cilacap, once he was moved. She didn't need that stress. He cared for her deeply.\n\nMyuran had had many differences, over the years, with various Bali Nine members. But that was the past, and Myuran had moved on. There was no point harbouring old grudges when they had to live together.\n\nThat night, Myuran also told me that he had made his peace with his father, Sam. Their relationship had previously been fractious, and Myuran had found Sam's illness hard to cope with as a young boy. But over the past few months, with his father in Bali with the family, Myuran had decided the past was the past. There was no point digging up the pain of those days.\n\nMyuran told me he and Andrew were sorry: they had stuffed up, but they didn't deserve this. 'We made a mistake, a lot of bad things have happened and we have changed,' he said. 'We made an effort and have done so much work inside here.'\n\nNo one he spoke to that night knew what to say to him. Most thought it could well be their final time with Myuran. It was 11.03 p.m. when my conversation with him ended. I didn't want to say the word 'goodbye' \u2013 I didn't know what to say. I made small talk as I tried to think of something. In the end, I said the only thing I could bring myself to say: 'You take care, Myu.'\n\nThat night, Andrew was trying to keep his humour up. 'I'm busy like Tiger Airways right now, so many calls an[d] text[s],' he joked. 'It's like the customer service line.'\n\nHe was busy writing, he said, wisecracking with me via text message about how he might finally write an article that would be published in the newspaper \u2013 it was a 'golden opportunity to put my own article up', he joked. 'UR gonna miss me being a complete smartarse now,' he told me, saying he would lose his phone when he got moved. He signed off, promising more dealings in the future.\n\nThe transfer was planned for the early hours of the next day, and no one had much sleep. Friends held a candlelit vigil at the front of the jail. Before 2 a.m. hundreds of police started massing around the complex. All the roads around it were blocked off, and police kitted out in riot gear were everywhere. Ominously, a water cannon parked in front of the building. It was unclear what the authorities were expecting, but clearly they were taking no chances.\n\nFeby was not letting the love of her life go without saying goodbye. She wanted to see her fianc\u00e9 one last time. Battling the noisy crowds, she and Michael made their way to the front door of the prison. Please, could they see Andrew before he left? It wasn't possible, they were told. Feby begged but eventually they left dejected, not commenting to anyone.\n\nBy now it was 3 a.m. Inside the prison, the time of departure was nearing.\n\n'Andrew, what are you wearing?' Myuran shouted out to the next cell.\n\n'Ask Veronica,' he replied. 'I don't know.'\n\nBoth men dressed, and Myuran began to eat some bread. When the guards came to get them, Myuran asked them to wait until he was finished.\n\nAt 3.22 a.m. Andrew, who still had his phone, asked me if I was out the front of the jail. He had heard the roads were blocked off. 'How long have they blocked it off for and how many police?' he wanted to know. He said he was good. When I told him there was a water cannon there too, he commented: 'That's not nice, who they gonna spray?' He wanted to know how many Barracuda armoured personnel carriers were there.\n\nAt 3.24 a.m. Myuran sent a message: 'I think we are going, they are here.' By this time the Barracudas had driven into the jail to collect their passengers.\n\nMyuran gripped the hands of Si Yi Chen as he was led past his cell. They were like family. Caught together, they had now lived together for ten years, and two of them were leaving.\n\nAs they were led out of Kerobokan prison, the guards lined up to say goodbye. Andrew and Myuran shook each one by the hand, thanking them for their care and attention over the past decade. They thanked the prison governor for allowing them to rehabilitate and to run prison programs. There was no resistance. They went calmly and with grace. They were dignified. Some guards cried. The contrast between the military might that was on hand for their transfer and the two men's actions that morning could not have been starker.\n\nThey had arrived at Kerobokan back in 2005 as criminals. The police had dubbed them the Godfather and the Kingpin. They were leaving as reformed men. They were the Pastor and the Painter.\n\n# 13.\n\n# NUSAKAMBANGAN\n\n'You'd think being locked up 24 hours a day he can sit still. He doesn't even stay still in his sleep. He does a full 360 in his sleep.' Myuran was telling his lawyers what it was like sharing a cell with Andrew at Besi prison.\n\nClearly, the new living arrangements took a little getting used to. Andrew and Myuran were like two brothers made to share a bedroom for the first time. They bickered good-naturedly, but they had each other's backs and made all decisions together.\n\nAfter the shock of the transfer and the initial visit from their lawyers, it seemed the suspicion that they were to be executed immediately was incorrect. The day after they arrived at Nusakambangan, the Bali prosecutors who had escorted them were ordered to return home. They had to be present for the executions; if they were going home, nothing would be happening immediately. Still, no one was taking anything for granted because nothing had been said officially.\n\nLike Myuran and Andrew, drug convict Raheem Agbaje Salami believed he was about to die. In fact, that was not his real name, it was the name under which the Nigerian had been convicted; the name on the false passport he had been using at the time of his arrest. His real name was Jamiu Owolabi Abashin, a point which his lawyers had tried to make during their pleas to save him. How could you execute someone if you couldn't even get his name right?\n\nOn 2 March 2015 he wrote a heartbreaking final letter, telling of his love for his girlfriend, Angela Intan, and setting out his last requests:\n\nMy clemency has been rejected so I have to be prepared for the execution at any time. About that I feel grateful to the God for what He has given in my life. I understand that all God's plan is beautiful and good for you because God knows what is the best for me... I also say sorry to Indonesia and all the people for my wrongdoing... Thank you to the prison governor and all the staff where I had been held, Madiun, Malang, Porong [prisons in East Java].\n\nSince being convicted 17 years ago, Raheem wrote, he had obeyed prison rules and had become more active in his religion. He thanked his pastors and recorded his belief in Jesus.\n\nI am sorry if I have [made] mistakes, deliberate or not deliberate. The last thing and most important that I want to say thank you and goodbye to my girlfriend who I love very much, Angela Intan, who has been very loyal to accompany me in happy and sad times... I pray for Angela to finish her study in senior high school and graduate with good results.\n\nRaheem wanted Angela to be strong in facing the execution and leave her future in God's hands, telling her how much he loved her.\n\nHe recorded his hopes for the future:\n\n1. Let the execution of me become the last in Indonesia because life and death of humans is in God's hands, only God has the right to take away human life.\n\n2. Execution is not the major way to eradicate drugs. The justice system needs to be fixed because drug dealers are mostly free because they have the ability to play the law. They are now free and can do transactions. That's why drug eradication is difficult to achieve. I know and went through the situation. Because of my poverty I cannot engage in that practice so I received a heavy punishment.\n\nAnd he listed his final requests:\n\n1. I plead to be allowed to call my family in Nigeria;\n\n2. I plead to be allowed to donate my organs \u2013 cornea, kidney and others for humanity and for those who need it;\n\n3. I sincerely plead to executioners to hand my body to the Pastor in St Cornelius Chuch, Madiun to treat and bury in the Catholic cemetery.\n\n'That is my last request, I hope it can be done,' Raheem wrote, adding his thanks to the prosecutors, the Nigerian embassy and his lawyers. He asked to be accompanied during the execution by his priest.\n\nIn his powerful final letter, Raheem expressed something that all who had been caught up within Indonesia's criminal justice system knew: money talks. Money buys verdicts, acquittals and lower sentences. Money buys freedom. Those who have it can work the system. Those who don't get harsh sentences. As Raheem put it, the big-time drug dealers could 'play the law'. People like him, who lived in poverty, had no hope.\n\nMyuran and Andrew and their families knew this only too well. Like Raheem, they would probably not be in this position, they were sure, if they'd had the resources to influence the right people.\n\nIt was now Friday, 6 March, two days after Andrew and Myuran had arrived on Nusakambangan. The lawyers and the consul-general were allowed to visit again, but not the families. It was not a general visiting day and the authorities were sticking strictly by the rules.\n\nThe Chan and Sukumaran families had travelled from Bali and were at a hotel in Cilacap, with little to do except wait, hope and pray. They were told they could not visit until Monday. It was like torture, knowing their boys were just across the water but they couldn't see them or hug them.\n\nMichael Chan said his family just wanted to see Andrew physically. They were taking things day by day, as they had been for a long time now. He and Feby had returned to Kerobokan prison after Andrew was moved, to collect some of his belongings.\n\nRaji Sukumaran was dreadfully upset. She was desperate to know how her son was. Was he okay after the transfer? What was he feeling? Did they even know the executions had been delayed? She had no idea. She just wanted to hold him close.\n\nRaheem told his visitors that the trio were now giving each other strength. Myuran wanted to know when he could start painting again. All he was allowed was a book and pencils \u2013 no paints, canvases or easel. Having just arrived, he and Andrew were in a quarantine period, and would not yet be allowed privileges. The governor of the prison said he didn't know how long that phase would last.\n\nA pastor who lived at Cilacap and ministered at the jail was a godsend for the Australians and Raheem. Ibu Yani brought them food and ensured they were being treated well. She had earned extraordinary trust from the jail authorities, and was well placed to help the two Australians adjust to their new lives at Nusakambangan. She was an angel, single-minded in her devotion to the inmates.\n\nIt was a full five days after the duo arrived at Nusakambangan before their families could see them. By now, Myuran and Andrew were adjusting to life inside one of Indonesia's highest-security prisons. 'Give me Kerobokan any time,' Myuran joked. 'It was like a resort.'\n\nAfter the families' visit on 9 March, the lawyers were allowed back. Their presence gave vital strength to the boys, but also meant they could deal with various practical matters that needed attention \u2013 such as Myuran's wishes for his paintings. He wrote and signed a note:\n\nMy brother chooses the paintings that he and Mum want \u2013 as many as they want. Give the ones you don't want to the exhibition and sell for lots of money to [pay for an art gallery] outside. Keep the good ones.\n\nHe and Andrew also compiled a list of items for their families to bring them. But the lawyers urged them to cut it back to what they really _needed_ , not what they wanted. They wanted a fan \u2013 it was so hot and humid that the cell was like an oven. But the lawyers urged them to remember that other inmates had nothing; their families were dirt-poor. They needed to scale back their desires.\n\nOne thing Andrew and Myuran insisted on was that whatever they got, their fellow prisoner, Raheem, was to get the same. They asked for three of everything \u2013 three pillows, three portions of food. He was one of them, they told him; they were in this together. They had known Raheem only a few days but already they were close. Their generosity of spirit inspired many around them.\n\nThey had also developed a close bond with Majell Hind, Australia's consul-general to Bali. On 10 March, in Veronica's notebook, they penned a joking letter to Foreign Minister Julie Bishop. 'Please open an Australian Consulate post in Cilacap,' they wrote, 'and make Majell the Australian Consul-General to Cilacap. Thank you.' Two stamps, of the type commonly used on Indonesian documentation, were stuck to the letter, and Myuran and Andrew signed over the top of them, like true government officials. 'PS. Majell is not allowed to leave Cilacap until we are off the death penalty and moved to Bali.'\n\nThe legal team was now working at fever pitch to save the lives of Myuran and Andrew. They challenged the February decision of the State Administrative Court, which had found that the Indonesian president had full authority to make a decision on clemency, and that such presidential decrees were beyond its jurisdiction. The Australians' lawyers argued that President Widodo's blanket rejection of clemency for all 64 inmates on death row showed a lack of justice and procedural fairness, and failed to take into account their rehabilitation. The president had not even read the clemency pleas of Myuran and Andrew, which outlined their rehabilitation and the programs they had set up, when he rejected them. On appeal, the court agreed to hear from legal experts from both sides in late March. The Australians' witness would argue that the court did have the power to challenge the president's clemency powers.\n\nIt might have seemed a long shot, given the court's initial ruling \u2013 not to mention the public statements of the attorney-general regarding the ongoing legal proceedings pursued by many of those on death row. But the lawyers were doing everything they could to halt the executions.\n\nIn Cilicap, Chinthu granted an interview to a local Indonesian television station, SCTV. His family had been shocked and ashamed when Myuran was arrested in Bali, he said. But since then his brother had worked hard to make up for his crime, to apologise to Indonesia. Chinthu described how the prison staff and guards had supported Myuran as he became a better person. 'Now we are very scared that he may die. He did something wrong, he committed a crime and he deserves to be punished. We accept that he must be punished, we just don't want him to be executed. We want him to stay in prison.'\n\nThis was the same point the legal team was arguing: not that Myuran and Andrew should be freed, but simply that they should not be put to death.\n\n'We don't ask that he goes free,' Chinthu continued. 'We just ask that he be allowed to stay in prison and continue to help people. There are many prisoners that have talked about the things he has done to help them. He has learned to paint... we just ask the Indonesian people and the Indonesian government to show mercy.'\n\nThe fight to save Andrew and Myuran was garnering more and more support. The Virgin Group founder Sir Richard Branson, in his capacity as a commissioner of the Global Commission on Drug Policy, wrote to President Widodo, pleading for him to spare the Bali Nine and others on death row. Sir Richard, along with two other commission members, Fernando Henrique Cardoso and Ruth Dreifuss, said the death penalty was inhumane and failed as a deterrent:\n\nCountries that still carry out executions for drug offences have not seen any significant shifts in supply and demand. The drug trade remains remarkably unaffected by the threat of capital punishment. Furthermore the death penalty removes any chance of forgiveness for the remorseful. It is our understanding that several of the defendants, many still in early adulthood when convicted, have expressed enormous regret for their offences and resolved to live better, more purposeful lives... As advocates of evidence-based drug policy reform, we have studied different national approaches in great depth. We have learnt that treating drugs as a health issue and not as a criminal one, helps lower the number of drug deaths, limits the spread of infectious diseases like HIV\/AIDS or hepatitis, reduces drug-related crime and allows people who struggle with addiction to become useful members of society again. If you were to find it helpful we would be happy to come to Indonesia to discuss the issue with you and your administration.\n\nIn Canberra, in a rare moment of solidarity, Australia's political leaders stood side by side at a candlelight vigil at Parliament House.\n\nThere had been missteps, however. In February Prime Minister Abbott had appeared to link Australia's aid funding \u2013 worth a billion dollars \u2013 to Indonesia in the wake of the devastating 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami with the bid to save the two Australians from the firing squad.\n\n'I would say to the Indonesian people and the Indonesian government,' he said, 'we in Australia are always there to help you and we hope that you might reciprocate in this way at this time.'\n\nAbbott recalled how 'Australians lost their lives in that campaign to help Indonesia'. A Sea King helicopter, while conducting humanitarian aid flights, crashed on Nias Island on 2 April 2005, just 15 days before the Bali Nine arrests. Nine service personnel had been killed in the crash \u2013 six Royal Australian Navy and three Royal Australian Air Force officers \u2013 and two survived. The military had been providing aid following a deadly earthquake a few days earlier, and just a few months after the tsunami had struck.\n\nSo incensed were some elements of Indonesian society by Mr Abbott's comments that a #CoinForAustralia campaign began, urging people to return Australia's money. In the end not much money was raised but the campaign epitomised the fervour surrounding the debate. There was, in Indonesian society, a widespread belief in the truth of government claims that drugs were ruining the nation. Not many, even those in senior positions, understood that the Bali Nine's drugs were in fact destined for Australia, not the streets of Indonesia.\n\nThe Coordinating Minister for Political, Legal and Security Affairs, Admiral Tedjo Edhy Purdijatno, was incensed at Abbott's linking of the executions and Australia's tsunami aid. He suggested that Indonesia release a 'human tsunami' of 10,000 asylum seekers to Australia. The minister was referring to Indonesia's cooperation over recent years in stopping boatloads of asylum seekers from leaving Indonesia bound for Australia. Speaking on Jakarta's Metro TV news channel, Tedjo said: 'If Canberra keeps doing things that displease Indonesia, Jakarta will surely let the illegal immigrants go to Australia.'\n\nAlso poorly received was Australia's offer, in early March, of a prisoner swap \u2013 whereby Andrew and Myuran would be returned to Australian custody, in exchange for Indonesian prisoners currently in Australian jails. The offer was made just after the dramatic transfer of Myuran and Andrew to Nusakambangan, Foreign Minister Julie Bishop raising the prospect with her Indonesian counterpart, Retno Marsudi, during a heated phone conversation. Bishop reiterated the offer by letter several days later, addressing her counterpart as 'my dear Retno'.\n\nThe 'one-off' offer was to swap the Bali Nine duo for three Indonesian prisoners convicted in New South Wales of attempting to import 390 kilograms of heroin into Australia in 1998. Bishop's letter highlighted the fact that Kristito Mandagi, Saud Siregar and Ismunandar were smuggling 47 times more heroin than the Bali Nine. Sentenced in the New South Wales District Court, the three men received lengthy sentences \u2013 Mandagi was given life with a non-parole period of 25 years, while the others received 20-year sentences. On appeal, Mandagi had his sentence reduced by six years. While Myuran and Andrew were preparing themselves for execution, the Indonesians had just a couple of years left before they would be eligible for parole and flown home to their families.\n\n(On 13 October 2017, two and a half years after Myuran and Andrew were executed, Mandagi was granted parole and left jail in New South Wales a free man. The original sentencing judge had described him as the 'pivotal figure' in the smuggling operation, saying it was a crime of massive proportions.)\n\nBishop had a second option for the Indonesians to consider. If a prisoner transfer were impossible, the Australian government would pay the costs of keeping Myuran and Andrew in jail for life in Indonesia. It was clear that Australia was pulling out all stops to save the lives of Myuran and Andrew.\n\nThree days later, Marsudi replied. The offer was firmly rebuffed. President Widodo said such an exchange could not take place: there was no legal basis, under Indonesian law, for such a prisoner swap.\n\nIn fact, attempts to set up an official prisoner transfer between Australia and Indonesia had already been under discussion for years, with no result. It had first been mooted after Schapelle Corby was convicted and sentenced to 20 years' jail; talks were reinvigorated after the sentences given to the Bali Nine. But the years of meetings had come to nothing: there were simply too many sticking points for Indonesia. And any arrangement wouldn't have applied to those on death row anyway.\n\nWhile Marsudi was diplomatic in her official language, Attorney-General Prasetyo was blunt. A prisoner swap was 'unthinkable', he said, not to mention irrelevant to the country's plan to execute drug traffickers. His colleague, Defence Minister Ryamizard Ryacudu, was even harsher, telling the media that the Indonesian criminals in Australia should also be executed.\n\nThe issue was now becoming very politically sensitive. An exhibition of artworks by prisoners at Kerobokan jail, including Myuran, was scheduled to open in Bali on 13 March; it was cancelled by the prison authorities hours before its launch. A silent auction of the art was to have raised money to set up an art studio outside the jail, so that ex-prisoners could continue their passion. Myuran's portrait of President Widodo, by then a well-known work, was to have been exhibited. Chinthu had travelled from Cilacap to Bali to attend.\n\nThe authorities claimed the organisers had breached an agreement that they would not mention anyone specifically. A flyer had emerged calling the exhibition a tribute to Myuran. The organisers said they had no idea who had printed and distributed it. It was all a bit odd; many wondered whether someone had made the flyer with the aim of shutting down the show.\n\nIt was 4.30 a.m. on 17 March. As Myuran lay on his mat in the cell at Besi prison, everything was silent. Suddenly, in the distance, he heard gunfire. He was startled \u2013 and frightened.\n\nFor months now, his sleep had been fitful, disturbed by thoughts of firing squads. Now it was so close. There was a police shooting range nearby; was he hearing a firing squad training? Were they practising shooting, in the darkness, at the hearts of him and Andrew and the others? It was terrifying.\n\nThe restrictions at Besi were now easing slightly. Myuran and Andrew were allowed to go to church inside the jail. No fewer than 15 guards escorted them, and no other prisoners were allowed to approach them or talk to them. They were still segregated. Apparently the guards didn't want them becoming too friendly with other prisoners, as it would cause unrest when the time came to execute them. Still, it was a treat to be allowed out of the prison block, and to see some new faces and recover some semblance of normality in their lives. During the service Andrew played a guitar with broken strings.\n\nMyuran joked around with the lawyers about what he wanted. He wrote a list of instructions:\n\n1. Majell can't leave the island, Veronica as well and Julian.\n\n2. Veronica is allowed to go to Jakarta for our case but has to come back directly to Cilacap\/the island.\n\n3. Julian, Veronica and Majell have to be miserable until we get off this island.\n\n4. Myu and Andrew aren't happy!\n\n5. [Get us] Off the death penalty.\n\nThere was no good news on the judicial front. The State Administrative Court threw out their appeal: a panel of three judges ruled that presidential clemency was outside the court's jurisdiction. That legal avenue had now closed. The next step was to request the Constitutional Court to hear the argument that the president should consider each case individually when deciding clemency. It would be a way of having their rehabilitation considered. But there was an extra hurdle to jump: foreigners did not have standing in the Constitutional Court.\n\nThe attorney-general was not happy, accusing the Australians' lawyers of stalling and toying with the law. There would be no more delays, he declared, as others on the list of drug dealers to be executed scrambled to mount similar court actions.\n\nFinally Myuran was granted permission to paint at Besi prison. The authorities said he would be allowed to have an easel and his brushes and paints, so he could get back to his true love \u2013 expressing himself on canvas. Chinthu set about getting him the art supplies he needed. Cilacap, a small port town that saw few foreigners, was not the place to find them.\n\nArmed with a long list of the paints, colours, brushes and papers Myuran needed, Chinthu went to Yogyakarta, a five-hour drive on a good day, and much longer on a bad one. He bought most of what was on the list but could not find everything. Chinthu knew that most of what his brother needed was sold in an art supplies store in Bali; Myuran had regularly ordered materials from it over the past few years. So Chinthu caught a flight from Yogyakarta to Bali, and went straight to the art shop to get the rest. He stayed overnight in Bali, flew back to Yogyakarta, picked up the other supplies and packed them into the car for the long, bumpy journey back to Cilacap. Chinthu dropped the boxes of supplies at the port, to be sent over to the prison, hoping desperately they would be allowed into the jail.\n\nWhen he next was able to visit, Chinthu eagerly asked his brother if he'd got everything.\n\n'Yes, but where's the paper?' Myuran asked, referring to the one thing Chinthu couldn't find anywhere, a particular kind of art paper.\n\nWith the supplies he needed and a green light from authorities, Myuran wasted no time. At first it was hard to find people to paint, so he focused on Andrew a lot. He also painted guards and their cell. In order to paint self-portraits he needed a good-sized mirror, which wasn't easy to find in Cilacap. Finally Chinthu located a bathroom cabinet with a mirror \u2013 it was the best he could do.\n\nTowards the end of March some family members returned to Australia. They could only visit on two days per week, and Cilacap wasn't Bali. There was little to do on non-visit days, and Yogyakarta was a long and difficult drive away. Plus, they had jobs in Australia and responsibilities that needed attention.\n\nTina Bailey and Denise Payne made the trip from Bali to Cilacap to visit, bringing scores of messages and letters from inmates and friends at Kerobokan. The Kerobokan prisoners had given Tina money to buy some special treats for Andrew and Myuran, such as KFC. Tina soon found out she needed to buy three portions rather than two, because Myuran and Andrew insisted on Raheem getting everything they got. KFC was one treat you could get in Cilacap, such is the Indonesian liking for the fried chicken, generally accompanied by rice.\n\nOn 11 April, after five weeks at Besi prison, Myuran wrote me a heartbreaking letter in which he detailed the pain he was feeling:\n\nIt's very good to hear from you! I'm okay at the moment. We have been kept in isolation since we arrived, in a bare cell \u2013 they watch us all the time. They read and photocopy everything coming in and out. It looks like we will be kept this way for some time to come.\n\nYes, we are allowed to go to church once a week but they don't like us talking with the other prisoners. The church here is very small, with 17 Christians.\n\nThe prison is similar to Kerobokan but much smaller and not as nice. The guards, I think, are the same anywhere you go. But I have to say, if Kerobokan was a prison I'd give it six stars. Really never knew how good we had it over there.\n\nThe isolation is tough. It's maddening not knowing what's going on on the outside. Before I was so connected with what's going on \u2013 I felt a little in control whether the news was good, bad or ugly. Here I feel completely helpless.\n\nI have been drawing since I got here but nothing good. It's actually quite [illegible] here so I have been a little stumped on what to draw \u2013 nobody willing to sit for me at the moment except for the guards, who like to ask me to draw them but then they take the drawings. Recently the warden has asked me to paint five portraits of his friend, which I have started. I have ordered some paint and canvases from my brother and hope to paint something soon.\n\nI have also been pushing to start an art class as soon as possible. They like the idea but are not very eager for me to mix with the other prisoners. The guards seem sympathetic but I think there is pressure from Jakarta to keep us this way. Please don't say anything to anyone that I've been drawing or am going to start painting as I'm afraid they will stop me.\n\nI am hoping that something good will happen soon. It's not fair for them to keep us like this \u2013 at least at Kerobokan, even with this hanging over our heads, it felt easier; we were allowed to live! They let us be with our family, work, play \u2013 basically enjoy life. Here everything feels harder, more tiring \u2013 isolation \u2013 limited visits. Here feels like some sort of limbo or purgatory before we are punished. Here for some reason they won't allow us to know the time, which is weird and can be a little disorienting.\n\nI'm happy to hear the news that my paintings were well received in Amsterdam and I am looking forward to hearing how the London exhibition goes! I'm jealous that my international art career is starting without me!\n\nI haven't read the story about Si Yi yet. I will ask my brother to try and get it to me. They don't like me getting news from the outside.\n\nTina [Bailey] visited me two weeks ago and I am happy to know that things over at Kerobokan are okay and running smoothly. I'm glad the projects can continue without me \u2013 means I did something right! I really do hope that I can start an art project here!\n\nHoping this letter finds you well.\n\nMyu.\n\nSix days after this letter was written, Myuran turned 34. It was 17 April, ten years to the day since the Bali Nine had been arrested. For ten years they had been allowed to live, but now they were being readied for death. Ibu Yani, the pastor who had been helping them, brought a cake in for Myuran's birthday. A banner read 'Happy 34th Birthday Myuran' and official photos were taken of the group \u2013 Myuran, Andrew, Raheem \u2013 standing together with two chocolate cakes. It was not an official visiting day, so Myuran spent his birthday with his cellmates and prison officials. But it was a bright spot in what was, by now, a dismal and wretched time. It seemed likely it would be Myuran's last birthday on Earth. But there was still no certainty about anything.\n\nMyuran's wish to start an art class at Besi was finally granted, and the painter held his first class. His students were eight prisoners. He was thrilled. It felt like he was getting some of his old life back. Raji was so proud. It was also a testament to the extraordinary trust he had earned from his guards in a short space of time.\n\nThat class, however, would be his last.\n\n# 14.\n\n# 72 HOURS\n\nWe, from the Attorney-General's Office, will notify you, Myuran Sukumaran, that the execution will take place... within three x 24 hours. The court has sentenced you to death. Your clemency has been denied.\n\nIt was 2.50 p.m. on Anzac Day, 25 April 2015. Officials read out the history of his case, from the time of the arrest, back in 2005, to the denial of clemency. There was no mention of the more recent legal proceedings that had been lodged, some of which were still afoot. All that was left was for Myuran to sign his own death warrant \u2013 the warrant of execution.\n\nHe took a deep breath. He was calm. He was dignified and peaceful, watching those whose job it was to organise his death.\n\n'I ask not to be executed because I have been rehabilitated, and both Andrew Chan and I have changed,' Myuran said in Indonesian. 'I feel that it is unjust and over ten years I have tried and succeeded in changing myself. I have apologised.' He spoke of the good he had done during his years in prison, and why he should not be executed.\n\n'I am not signing this because it is not correct,' he said of the execution warrant. Myuran eloquently listed all the good works he had been involved with at the jail, the people he had helped and saved, and the programs he had set up.\n\nThere was stunned silence as everyone looked at Myuran. No one had ever refused to sign an execution warrant before. The officials appeared flummoxed as to what to do. Some were sweating.\n\nAt 3.14 p.m. officials asked Myuran for his last requests. He wanted Julian to be his witness and be with him at the end; he wanted maximum time to spend with his family; he wanted to be allowed to continue painting to the end; and he wanted fresh air twice a day.\n\nSomeone started taking notes. He wanted the document to be retyped with his reasons included. There were spelling mistakes, substantial errors and minor ones.\n\nJulian, Veronica and Majell were with him. Speaking in Indonesian, Veronica stated that the document was simply not acceptable. 'You are about to execute my client and you could not even get the warrant that is going to take his life correct,' she noted.\n\nOfficials rushed to retype the document and find somewhere to print it. Now the printer wouldn't work. The original warrant, with Veronica's handwriting on it, was put aside. She demanded it back, insisting that a document with her handwriting on it not be left lying around. Tension was building. Someone crumpled it up and tossed it in a bin. Veronica wanted it back. That document was going nowhere. Ever a meticulous lawyer, she could not allow her client to sign a document that was riddled with inaccuracies. In frustration, the senior Bali prosecutor, Olopan Nainggolan, struck a match and burned it.\n\nIt took an hour of back and forth before Myuran was satisfied the document was accurate and reflected his feelings. He signed it, having courageously said what he needed to say. Veronica, Julian and Majell embraced him, and he was handcuffed.\n\nAs the cuffs were put around his wrists, he winced as they cut his skin. Veronica was angry. 'You need to loosen them,' she protested. 'That's too tight and it's cut his skin. He's in pain!'\n\nThroughout, Myuran was calm. There was no fear in his eyes. The Australians were in awe.\n\nAndrew Chan came in next. It was now 3.45 p.m. Olopan Nainggolan read his warrant of execution.\n\n'I refuse to sign,' Andrew began, 'and the reason why is because I have been in prison for ten years. I have rehabilitated myself. The nation of Indonesia helped rehabilitate me. I want a second chance. I helped other inmates and they have provided documents in relation to that.' Andrew listed all the projects and programs on which he had worked at the jail, also mentioning the church community he had established, which had helped so many prisoners. Like Myuran, he was calm and eloquent.\n\nAs his final requests, Andrew asked to spend as much time as possible with his family; that he be allowed to go to church every day; that David Soper and Feby act as witnesses at the execution; and that he be allowed fresh air twice a day. Like Myuran, Andrew insisted that the documents be retyped before he would sign.\n\nAfter witnessing the events that day, Julian said: 'It was a quiet, slow collision between the dignified reformed prisoner and the power of the state.'\n\nJulian knew he was watching a historic moment unfold. He thought of how many more famous people had been known for their sense of history and courage in similar circumstances. His clients had never heard of some of those people but that momentous day they grasped the moment, confronting the injustice of the state, the cruelty. 'They had prepared themselves for that moment and they were able to speak with quiet integrity and calm confidence about who they were and the injustice of the situation because for years they had known that this might come about and they had chosen to prepare themselves to be honourable at this moment,' Julian says. He was not at all surprised by what happened. He was proud. 'I felt privileged to be watching it. I felt that I must pay close attention because I was privileged to be a witness to something remarkable. But I was not surprised because I had been talking to them for nine years and I understood what they had become. They had outgrown all the people around them and they had certainly outgrown the machinery of death.' From time to time they had also fallen heavily, Julian says, but no one's perfect.\n\nAfter the Australians were finished, the other eight prisoners to be executed were brought into the room, one by one. Some of them, following Andrew's and Myuran's example, refused to sign their death warrants.\n\nThe embassies of the foreigners on the execution list had only been notified a day earlier of what was to come. But the signs had been ominous. On Thursday 23 April, the original prosecutors of all nine on the execution list received a letter from the attorney-general's office in Jakarta, telling them to prepare the executions. The only thing missing in the letters was the actual date, but everyone in authority knew it was imminent.\n\nThe prosecutors in Bali, who were required to witness the executions of Andrew and Myuran, prepared to fly from Bali to Yogyakarta the next day. It was a task none of them wanted. At least one, a devout Hindu, had already told his superiors he would not attend the executions; he wanted no part of it. But as prosecutors, it was their sworn duty as officers of the state. They didn't have a choice.\n\nFor another prosecutor it was the second time he had been called upon to witness an execution. Back in 2008 he was there in the same place when the three Bali bombers were executed by firing squad. Now his job demanded he do it again. Also a Hindu, he had been deeply affected the first time, and afterwards had spent time praying at his family temple, holding a Hindu cleansing ceremony. He didn't want to do it again.\n\nOne of the senior prosecutors asked the veteran court and police translator Wayan Ana to accompany them to Cilacap to help with translations. The energetic, ever-smiling and friendly Balinese man didn't even have to think about it. No way. He wasn't doing that job. He liked Andrew and Myuran a great deal. 'Pak [Mr], I don't want to take my friends to hell,' he said in answer.\n\nBy now Myuran was painting madly, desperate to document everything. On 24 April he completed two self-portraits \u2013 'A Strange Day' and 'After the New Arrival'. Both showed a dark shadow looming around his head.\n\nMary Jane Fiesta Veloso was transferred to Besi on the Thursday night from her women's prison at nearby Yogyakarta, arriving in the early morning. It was a men's jail; there could be only one reason she had been brought to Nusakambangan.\n\nIndonesian man Zainal Abidin was transferred from Pasir Putih, one of the six other prisons on Nusakambangan, to the Besi isolation cells. His lawyer, Ade Yuliawan, complained that Abidin still had a judicial review before the Supreme Court in Jakarta. Rodrigo Gulerte, a Brazilian, was also transferred from Pasir Putih. Three Nigerians \u2013 Sylvester Nwaolise, Okwudili Oyatanze and Martin Anderson \u2013 were brought from Batu prison.\n\nThe authorities had previously said the executions would not take place while the Asian\u2013African Summit was taking place in Indonesia. It had finished on the Thursday, 23 April, and the international dignitaries were now departing. Julian and Veronica were in Australia when the embassy notified them that the execution warrants would be issued on the Saturday. They rushed to the airport.\n\nLex Lasry, now a judge, tweeted:\n\nSo the executions delayed 'til after conference in Indonesia \u2013 avoids bad look. Now notice to kill 2 Australians to happen 2morrow, Anzac Day.\n\nThe journey to Cilacap is not quick. You fly from Bali or Jakarta into Yogyakarta, in Central Java, and then drive for five to six hours on crowded and bumpy roads to the town of Cilacap, on the southern coast. The lawyers made it just 15 minutes before the meeting started.\n\nBizarrely, they were told there was a limit of one lawyer per country. Veronica was angry. 'I am Andrew's lawyer,' she said, 'Julian is Myuran's lawyer, and we need to be there for our clients.' She pleaded with an official from the Indonesian Foreign Ministry, who eventually agreed they could both attend.\n\nThere were about 20 people in the room: embassy officials from the various nations involved, lawyers, prosecutors and other government officials. The assembly was informed that the prisoners would be asked for their last wishes; the officials would inform them which were possible and which were not.\n\nRepresentatives for Rodrigo Gularte said they wished to apply for a second judicial review and seek a medical evaluation of his mental condition, and asked that the rule of law be respected. They were told that this was not the forum to discuss legal issues. Everyone in the room looked at each other grimly. The Australians argued that Myuran and Andrew had a Constitutional Court hearing pending, but again, no one would discuss legal matters.\n\nThe group boarded a bus headed for the port, and then a ferry to Besi jail. Even now, no one was certain that the warrants would in fact be read out that day. It was like waiting beneath a slow-moving avalanche.\n\nThe wife of a staffer at the Australian embassy had baked some Anzac biscuits for Andrew and Myuran; her husband asked Veronica to give them to the boys. The officials were not so sure, and only relented when Veronica explained the significance of Anzac Day.\n\nMyuran was led into the room. 'Oh my God, it's so good to see you,' he said, hugging the lawyers and Majell. He sat down between Veronica and Majell; Julian stood behind him for the reading of the warrant.\n\nWhen the warrants for all nine had been read, the group of lawyers and officials was taken back to the mainland.\n\nThat day, 25 April, Myuran painted several more artworks. 'After Our New Arrivals, a Bad Sleep Last Night' depicted him in almost a foetal position, while 'Time is Ticking' was a self-portrait with a gaping hole in place of his heart. Another work featured just his face and head; it was titled '72 Hours Just Started'. The countdown had begun.\n\nThe families of the condemned would be allowed to visit for the next three days. Raji was already in Cilacap, and had been visiting Myuran on the two days each week he was allowed to have visitors. When news came though of the meetings and the official 72 hours' notice, Raji had just returned from Yogyakarta, where she had bought more art supplies for Myuran. He had been excited about getting new paints, and Raji had wondered how she would get it all into the prison.\n\nChinthu had been in Cilacap only the week before. When he left, he believed he and Myuran would have a lot more time \u2013 that the executions were still a long way off. On hearing about the lawyers and embassies being called to meet, he was shocked. Wasn't the judicial review process still incomplete? When I spoke to him in Sydney he was wondering if this was it, or if it was just another furphy. He wanted to know if he should go or wait for further confirmation. Drop everything and get on the plane, I urged him, they are serious this time. You all need to get there. It's going to happen. My Bali-based assistant Komang Erviani, had been told the same thing in Bali. All the Bali prosecutors had been ordered to Cilacap. The caravan of death had begun.\n\nAs Mary Jane had been transferred to Nusakambangan the night before, Chinthu thought, Myuran and Andrew must have had a sense of what was going on. As he booked his flights to Indonesia, Chinthu had no clue how the next few days would play out.\n\nFeby had been visiting Andrew regularly before the announcement and was already in Cilacap. Michael flew with his mother from Sydney, and the family's closest friends all travelled to Indonesia. Everyone knew time was now precious.\n\nThe first of the last visits was on Sunday, 26 April. The families of all nine condemned prisoners on the list were now in Cilacap, along with lawyers, priests, pastors and imams, and embassy representatives.\n\nMary Jane Veloso's two young sons, her parents and her siblings arrived from Yogyakarta. They had been in Indonesia and due to visit her in prison there on the Friday. But she was moved to Nusakambangan the night before. Her sons, Mark Daniel and Mark Darren, had made a video plea to the son of President Jokowi, 19-year-old Kaesang Pangarep.\n\n'Kaesang, please help my mother. Please tell your father not to execute her. We beg you to lift our mother's sentence and not to execute her.'\n\nFilipino lawyer Edre Olalia had arrived in Indonesia and, at Cilacap, reminded the Indonesian government that Mary Jane still had legal remedies on foot, having requested a second judicial review; her application was still before the courts.\n\nOlalia, the secretary-general of the National Union of People's Lawyers \u2013 Philippines, had taken up Mary Jane's plight personally. Migrante International, a vocal alliance representing overseas migrant workers, was also campaigning furiously on her behalf. People displayed banners and posters at the port reading 'Save Mary Jane'. In Manila, too, their campaign was in full swing.\n\nThe lawyer vowed never to give up the fight to save the young mother's life: 'We will never give up until the last breath of somebody like Mary Jane Veloso... a mother of two little boys coming from a very poor family forced out of her country because there are no economic opportunities to live a decent life like a human being, whose father worked in the large former estate of the Philippine president. We are not giving up.'\n\nOlalia urged the Indonesian government to allow Mary Jane to tell the world her story of being set up. 'We don't want any more Mary Jane Velosos,' he said. Serious questions needed to be answered about the chain of custody of Mary Jane's luggage on the day she was arrested.\n\nThe young Manila mother had been arrested on 25 April 2010 at Yogyakarta airport, allegedly with a quantity of heroin in her luggage. At her trial, held in the Sleman District Court in Yogyakarta, she barely understood what was going on. She was provided with an Indonesian\u2013English translator \u2013 but at the time she spoke only Tagalog, her native language.\n\nMary Jane had consistently maintained her innocence, claiming she was set up by Maria Kristina Sergio, the daughter of a godparent, who was to help her get domestic work in Malaysia. The family was dirt-poor and she needed a job. But when Mary Jane arrived in Malaysia, the job was no longer on offer. In April 2010 she was told she would go to Indonesia to work. She was given a suitcase and told to pack.\n\nWhen she arrived at Yogyakarta airport her luggage was searched and 2.6 kilograms of heroin was found secreted inside the lining. At her trial, where she had a court-appointed lawyer, prosecutors sought a life sentence. The court gave her death. According to Olalia, Mary Jane was, first and foremost, a victim of human trafficking.\n\nThe campaign to save her was high-profile and vocal, both in the Philippines and in Indonesia. Migrante International was holding rallies on her behalf. Execution 'is not the solution', Olalia said.\n\nLike Myuran and Andrew, Mary Jane had refused to sign her death warrant. It was 5 p.m. by the time she was called into the office by the prosecutors. She was allowed to call her sister, who passed the phone to Edre Olalia. He apologised for being so passionate. She was dirt-poor, he said, and her story tragic.\n\nRaheem Agbaje Salami's Indonesian girlfriend, Angela Intan, was also there. His lawyers held up a photograph of the pair, smiling and happy, taken before the executions appeared imminent. She was now broken.\n\nAt 8.25 a.m. on Sunday, 26 April, the Chan and Sukumaran families and friends left Cilacap port for the first of their final three visits on Nusakambangan. Forty-five minutes later, a truck laden with plastic chairs and corrugated iron sheeting went across to the island on the ferry. The logistics of the execution were now in full swing. The chairs were for officials, family members, lawyers and embassy staff. The iron sheeting was to construct a temporary roof over the area where the nine prisoners would be shot. Chairs and tenting had been delivered the previous day. Things were now moving quickly.\n\nAt Besi prison, Myuran and Andrew were waiting when their families arrived. Raji's heart was palpitating. Andrew came out first, then Myuran. He's okay, she thought. He was holding a book, trying to disguise what was around his wrists. He didn't want to increase his family's distress. It was the first time they had seen him handcuffed, and it was a shock, especially after they'd spent so much carefree time with him at Kerobokan jail.\n\nRaji was particularly upset by the handcuffs. Myuran clumsily tried to hug her but a proper embrace wasn't possible. Eventually, the guards agreed to remove the handcuffs for the time they were with their families, to reduce the stress and emotion. It was another sign of the trust and respect Myuran had earned at the jail in only a short time.\n\nSince the 72 hours' notice had been given, the duo had not seen their families. Now, the tears flowed. The family hugged Myuran, all of them weeping. Everyone who hugged him cried \u2013 parents, siblings, aunts and uncles.\n\nHe wanted to know what was happening in the outside world. Being locked up and in isolation, without even a watch to tell the time, he had no idea what was going on elsewhere. It was like living in a bubble.\n\nHe told his family how stupid the authorities were, pushing ahead with the executions. He told them about Mary Jane. He thought it was beyond belief that they would execute her. He told them what he had learned about each of the eight to be executed with him. He wanted his family to know the story of each one, so it could be told to the world. He felt terrible that no one was advocating for them.\n\nEven though Myuran had been in prison for a decade, he felt like he had had a good life. Some of the others had gone through dreadful times \u2013 being beaten, tortured. He related some of those stories. The family watched as the guards brought Martin Anderson out in a wheelchair for his visit with his wife. What was the point of executing a man who couldn't even walk, Myuran asked.\n\nAnderson had been sentenced to death in 2003, found guilty of possessing a mere 50 grams of heroin. According to his lawyers, he had been shot in the leg by police at the time of his arrest. He had been carrying a false Ghanaian passport, and for the entirety of his trial and sentence he'd been classified as Ghanaian. He wasn't \u2013 he was Nigerian. And he appeared never to have had any consular assistance. Anderson had married an Indonesian woman and had asked her to bury him according to the traditions of Islam, his religion. And he asked his wife to remain a Muslim. They would meet again after death.\n\nMyuran said that Anderson had told him some guy cut a deal with the police, leading to his arrest. 'Look at him now \u2013 all these years later, he is an old man in a wheelchair.'\n\nRaheem, he said, had been in prison for 17 years. He was a changed man, and a good person. 'He doesn't deserve this,' he told them. Myuran tried to keep talking to his family about other prisoners so they wouldn't dwell too long on what was about to happen to him.\n\nHe told them how, once all nine had arrived at Besi prison, they had been scared. He and Andrew had talked the guards into unlocking the cells so the condemned people could come together to pray. Everyone prayed together, except the Indonesian, Zainal Abidin. They talked and prayed.\n\nMyuran also spoke with Veronica and Julian. He was thoughtful and introspective. 'This is really wrong,' he told them. 'I understand there is a big problem in Indonesia with drugs, but just to execute a few people won't make a difference.' He had been thinking deeply about this, and spoke to his lawyers with clarity. He and Andrew had been in prison for a full ten years.\n\nI know how much he has done and he knows what I have done. We have done as much as possible to change... Other people don't do the same thing. Prison is where you go to become a better criminal, a school to become a better criminal. We are the few who have stood out, pushed for change, been there for good. This is just completely ridiculous.\n\nI have prepared myself to be killed, but I don't agree with this and I don't understand it. It is wrong, not just for me but for the others too. These five people are good people \u2013 me, Andrew, Raheem, Okwudili, Mary Jane. Raheem, since I have known him, he is a good person. He knows as much as Andrew about the Bible \u2013 he knows it inside out, and prays from it. Raheem talks softy, politely. Just like us, you can feel he is a good person. Mary Jane is a poor little girl. I feel so sad to see her \u2013 she is poor, she doesn't have money, her family just came from the Philippines. She said she was set up. I believe her too, but even if she did it she doesn't deserve the death penalty. She is small, not a drug kingpin. This is making me really upset.\n\nThey said they want to fight drugs, but they are not. Why kill the prisoners who are rehabilitated? Makes me think whether they really want to fight drugs or they want to get rid of people who speak out about it. The Brazilian guy doesn't look stable \u2013 he doesn't talk to anyone, doesn't look healthy.\n\nI don't know what they are gaining by killing these people, killing us. I don't understand why Jokowi and the attorney-general would refuse to even look to see how good people are becoming in prison. They only want to see the bad things inside prisons. They turn a blind eye on the good things. We have become good people. At the start we were bad but now we are good.\n\nThe problem of drugs in Indonesia isn't just our fault. I have been in prison and it's very rare for drug kingpins to face the firing squad. The only people killed are the pawns and the little people. They are the ones whose blood is spilt. In Kerobokan I saw shabu [methamphetamine], huge amounts... People can use 200 to 300 grams in prison of different substances. Drugs on drones come in. The people who don't change, they buy off people and they will never ever face justice.\n\nMyuran spoke of his hopes that, one day, he would have been allowed to go home, to teach people in Australian prisons, to see his family and make sure the Australian people were proud of him.\n\nIn addition to spending as much time as possible with their families that day, Myuran and Andrew also had to address some practicalities of their impending deaths. A list of the people they wanted to make final phone calls to before they died had to be prepared and submitted to the authorities for approval. The pair also needed to provide their funeral instructions.\n\nAndrew had spent time that day praying with his family and friends. They prayed, reading Matthew 10:28. ' _Do not be afraid of those who kill the body but cannot kill the soul. Rather, be afraid of the One who can destroy both soul and body in hell._ '\n\nHe and Feby were planning to get married the next day. They were keeping this quiet, except for a small group, for fear that the authorities might find some reason to stop them. A list was compiled of those invited to the jail's chapel for the ceremony. The couple didn't want a big deal made of it.\n\nChinthu and Michael left Besi early that day, in order to make a plea. They needed to beg the president \u2013 they had to do whatever they could to reach the authorities in Jakarta. Their message was one of mercy. They looked exhausted as they fronted the cameras again.\n\nChinthu went first. 'My brother has asked for his last request \u2013 to be able to paint as long and as much as possible. He has found peace with what may happen. But he [feels], as we all feel, this is a grave injustice and that this did not have to be this way, and it still doesn't have to be this way... We ask the president to please use his powers to show the same mercy that I know that he has asked for Indonesian citizens. We ask the president, please, please show mercy. There are nine people with families that love them \u2013 that's mothers, fathers, sons, daughters, brothers and sisters. We please ask the president to use his powers and intervene and save their lives.'\n\nMichael followed. 'Andrew's last wish, one of his wishes, would be to go to church with his family in his last few days. The two boys are still holding up pretty well, considering they feel this isn't just, what has happened over the last ten years with their whole case. Somewhere in the legal system for Indonesia there has got to be mercy, and the president has to show that now, and he's the only one that can stop it. And it's not too late to do so, so I please ask the president to please show mercy.'\n\nThat night at Besi, the eight men and one woman \u2013 now the walking dead \u2013 had Kentucky Fried Chicken for dinner. Andrew and Myuran had asked their families to have it sent from the mainland, enough for all nine. They were now as one.\n\n# 15.\n\n# DEATH ROW WEDDING\n\nThe groom wore bright blue crocs. The bride wore jeans and a bright floral blouse. Andrew, a beaming smile on his face, watched Feby intently as he slipped a ring onto her finger. He was the happiest man alive.\n\nThe small chapel was decorated beautifully. Someone had gone to a lot of trouble to make it nice, putting flowers around. It might have been a death row wedding, but everyone wanted it to be a special, sacred moment. Feby held a bunch of bougainvilleas.\n\nMany of those closest to Andrew were there. Helen and Michael. But his father Ken had not been well enough to make yet another arduous journey. It was heartbreaking for both Andrew and Ken. Andrew's two sisters and their families also remained in Sydney to comfort and care for Ken. Julian, Veronica and Mulya were there as well as Christie Buckingham, Majell, Andrew's close friends Alan and Ann Wilkins from Melbourne and friend Miranda Ridington and other close friends. They had all been visiting him in jail for years and supported him and the family.\n\nDavid Soper, a Sydney Salvation Army major, conducted the ceremony. He was a long-time Chan family friend from Sydney and had known Andrew since he was three. It was actually David's wedding ring, from his marriage to wife Shelley, also a Salvation Army major, which Feby slipped onto Andrew's finger. Her own engagement ring also served as her wedding ring. Communion was celebrated, complete with the host and small sachets of non-alcoholic communion wine.\n\nThe wedding had been approved by Attorney-General Muhammad Prasetyo. He spoke about it to local media. 'There was a wish from Andrew Chan, which I thought wasn't serious and wasn't the last wish, but it turned out to be serious,' he said. 'He wanted to be tied in matrimony with his girlfriend. He's been in isolation so I thought he wasn't serious.'\n\nAndrew was very serious and had been for a while. In mid-2014 he wrote about Feby and their plans:\n\nIn May 2012 I was acquainted by a personal friend with an Indonesian pastor by the name of Febyanti Herewila, who for the last 15 years has experience in running prayer departments and also youth ministry in various places such as Yogyakarta Indonesia and also in Singapore. Over the years our friendship has flourished and God gave us visions in doing certain things for God's kingdom. Earlier this year God also placed us in contact with a pastor by the name of Josie Freer, who has had 20-plus years' experience in ministry, such as... counselling and also skills in teaching ESL. Through this we had a huge confirmation that this is exactly what God wanted and where he wanted to take us and use us. Which brings me into this vision of ours, which will guide what and why we are trying to reach where we are, and what we are hoping to achieve. To give you a better understanding, bear with me as I share the culture, agriculture and also the vision and mission within our hearts.\n\nIn the document, which he sent me to read, to give me an insight into the project, he wrote about Sabu. It was as if he had been there. In a way, he had \u2013 in his head, while locked up in Kerobokan, as he planned what he would do upon his release.\n\nSabu is the largest of the three islands situated midway between Sumba and Rote, west of Timor in Indonesia's eastern province. Seba, the capital of the tiny island of Sabu, is one of the most isolated of all Indonesia's scattered islands in the archipelago. Approximately 92,000\u2013100,000 (according to the census of 2012) currently live on the island, with a majority of the islanders having traditional ties with traditional roots of the Jingi Tui religion that still lingers on the island. These beliefs practise a lot of black magic stuff \u2013 not exactly the stuff you would see in _Harry Potter_ , rather a very dark occult that still has a huge impact as you enter onto the island. With an exceptional handful of Muslim Sabunese Arab families, there are also only a handful of Protestant Christians, who still hold very strong traditional ties. South of Seba, the village of Namata holds the original ties of Jingi Tiu, and during the ceremonies that are held for Jingi Tui people from all over Sabu descend on Namata.\n\nThe descendants of the Sabunese originated in India, but Sabu was aligned to the Dutch colony in the 1600. The neighbouring island of Flores, ruled by a Portuguese colony, was also present in Sabu, as more people spoke Portuguese than they did Dutch. Today you will find that the Sabunese have a number of dialects that distinguish which tribe they are from. They are very simple people who live in houses having long thatched roofs by using lontar palm leaves to shelter them. Approximately 95% of the Sabunese people live in simple homes like these, as the island lacks most resources such as education, health and an understanding of most things that we in the West would gasp at. There is a huge lack in the education of relational building, career guidance for youth, impartation of life skills, financial planning as none of these things exist. As youth with nothing to partake in, things such as alcohol abuse come at a young age \u2013 also drugs. Indonesia has one of the biggest increases of drug and alcohol related problems growing in the past ten years, In fact it has grown roughly 8% in the last ten years. Children as young as three are smoking their first cigarette and by age ten they're already drinking.\n\nThe document went on, setting out mission, vision and goal.\n\nOur mission is to help build stronger families and work with the youth in the community of Sabu and to help give them an understanding of breaking away their traditional ties so that they may understand how to serve God. We are hoping to build a community centre for the youth so that they will be able to have a place to hang out and also to have extra educational studies to help build the community. Through the management of a team we are hoping to educate these disadvantaged teenagers and also low-income families throughout Sabu. This community centre will contain a place so that missionaries will be able to stay and help to volunteer their time and efforts to help. It will contain hopefully a greenhouse, basketball court, soccer pitch, computer room, library, music room and also a class for teaching ESL. We are also hoping to also build leaders to help assist more in the local church. We will be working with the local church hoping to build a bigger kingdom for God.\n\nOur vision is to see lives transformed in families, resulting in a brighter future and also a brighter understanding of working in synergy.\n\nOur goal is that this year itself we are hoping to build a community centre on a piece of land that we have recently just been approved for. The community centre will have at least two things by the next year, we are hoping, which is a music class and a place where the youth can come to commune in sports activities such as soccer or basketball. We are hoping that mission teams will be prepared to help this community grow and also educate the youth in educational understanding and studies.\n\nAndrew and Feby hoped to put their plan into action in early 2015. But the early January news of his clemency being denied put that on hold.\n\nFeby's love for Andrew was not borne out of any sense of pity. She loved him for who he was. 'Andrew is one of the strongest, kindest people I have ever met,' she said. 'I have never seen him as just a prisoner or someone who is on death row. If you ask me why do I love him, because he also has weaknesses as well, but he also has a lot of good things about him. But I accept him the way he is. I am also very proud of him. I love him for who he is.' Seeing everything Andrew did for others made her love him even more.\n\nThe day of the wedding, 27 April, didn't start well. When the families got to Cilacap port to take the ferry across to the prison island, they were informed they needed new visitor paperwork. That would have to be done at the prosecutor's office, back in town. There had been no suggestion of this the previous day.\n\nWith so few hours left with their boys, every minute lost was one too many. As the bureaucratic wheels at the prosecutor's office slowly turned, new forms were filled in and photographs taken, everyone was getting anxious \u2013 Feby especially so. All worried that Andrew and Myuran would be fretting, wondering what had happened to them.\n\nThe families and friends finally left the port at 11.30 a.m., several hours late. When they arrived, Andrew and Myuran didn't want to dwell on the inexplicable delay; they simply embraced their families.\n\nMyuran asked Christie Buckingham and Tina Bailey to lead communion with his family as they prayed together. Some of the other prisoners joined in. All up, about 20 people gathered. After Myuran led them in prayer, he started singing 'Bless the Lord', a song also known as '10,000 Reasons', and one they all knew and loved.\n\nThere was still some time for jokes amid the sad pall that hung over the Besi prison visiting area. As Myuran got stuck into some more junk food, someone told him it wasn't good for him.\n\nHe smiled. 'There are worse ways to die.'\n\nWhile the Chan and Sukumaran families were treasuring every moment of their visiting time, the legal team was working desperately, often late into the night. Once Veronica fell asleep at the desk, her head on a notebook.\n\nThere was some brief and short-lived good news late on 27 April when the Indonesian Constitutional Court agreed to hear their challenge to the country's clemency laws. The lawyers wanted clarity on the Indonesian president's obligations when considering clemency pleas, amid claims that Jokowi had failed to even look at the two Australians' extraordinary rehabilitation. He had, it was claimed, simply refused all clemencies for drug traffickers, regardless of individual circumstances.\n\nBut the date given for the hearing was 12 May \u2013 two weeks after the Australians were scheduled to be shot. Attorney-General Prasetyo was forthright in his comments: the Constitutional Court hearing was not part of the normal appeals process, which they had already exhausted, so it would not affect the executions, which would go ahead regardless. In the future, he said, the government would impose time limits for these types of appeals.\n\nIt was also troubling that the attorney-general was making pronouncements that the various appeals lodged by the nine condemned prisoners would be thrown out by the courts, before they had even been considered by a judge. Did the rule of law have any sway here?\n\nMulya was trying everything. He was clearly frustrated. He called on the attorney-general to see common sense, to act with regard to justice, and to do his job as attorney-general and uphold the law. The legal teams were now counting the hours, having exhausted every legal avenue and done everything possible under the legal system to save their clients.\n\nThere had been only silence concerning the Judicial Commission's investigation into Muhammad Rifan's allegations of bribery and corruption during Andrew and Myuran's initial trial in the Denpasar District Court. On 26 April Rifan had outlined to Fairfax Media and the former host of SBS's _Dateline_ program, Mark Davis, what he claimed had happened as the trial came to a close. Rifan, a Bali lawyer who defended many foreigners, claimed that the judges involved had sought a Rp 1 billion bribe (at the time about A$130,000), in order to give Andrew and Myuran sentences of less than 20 years.\n\nBut several weeks before the verdicts were due to be handed down, Rifan said, the judges told him they had been directed by Jakarta to give both men the death penalty. They were feeling the heat, he alleged, and asked for even more money. Rifan believed they were bluffing and would relent. But they didn't, and in February 2006 the accused were given the death sentence. The first time Rifan had mentioned this to anyone was in February 2015, when he visited Andrew and Myuran at Kerobokan prison.\n\nA complaint had immediately been lodged with the Judicial Commission, but no witnesses had yet been interviewed. Mulya said the lawyers and families were deeply disturbed by the allegations, and that they had to be investigated fully before the men were executed. Any attempt at bribery or corruption was a defect in the whole legal process, he said.\n\n'This is a matter of upholding the law, upholding the due process of law, and seeking the truth and justice,' Mulya said. 'Until they have finished the investigations they should not be executed. We appeal to the attorney-general, we appeal to the president, in the name of due process of law, in the name of fairness and justice, not to do the executions. This is not an act of desperado here. This is a demand for justice, a demand for justice. And [the] Judicial Commission has an obligation to commence a complete investigation, and it is not too late to save the legal system.\n\n'The attorney-general keeps saying there is no more legal avenue[s] for appeal, but I think he forgot to mention there is a report filed at the Judicial Commission, and that is extremely fundamentally important... If it is proven [that the trial was] a defective process, then the whole decision, the whole judgement must be annulled.'\n\nJust because this was the first case of its kind, the lawyer emphasised, doesn't mean it isn't legitimate.\n\nMulya had met with the chief of the Judicial Commission, who had promised to proceed with the case. The lawyer didn't know why the case had not even been started, or why witnesses were yet to be interviewed, given that his clients were to be shot within days.\n\nRemarkably, even the judges from the Denpasar trial had not yet been interviewed by the Judicial Commission. It wasn't because they were hard to track down \u2013 after all, the media was speaking to them.\n\nJust that day, one of the judges, Wayan Yasa Abadhi, said he had never been contacted by the Judicial Commission with any questions. He denied any contact with the lawyers during the trial, and said he knew nothing about any money being demanded or offered for a favourable sentence. 'Why didn't [Rifan] report [it] at that time?' the judge asked. 'They can report it as extortion. It is better if they report it. What is the data? Who is it? What is the evidence? Just report it. So it can be processed. Do not give statements in media like this, so that we who were not doing that, become contaminated. For me, personally, during the process there was no pressure. We gave the verdict based on the facts revealed in the trial, based on the law. I didn't know the lawyer personally and I never contacted or was contacted by him.'\n\nAsked if he thought it was possible the other judges could have requested bribes, Abadhi said: 'I cannot comment about it.'\n\nMulya attended Andrew and Feby's wedding that day, briefed them on the legal avenues still being pursued, and left the prison with yet another of Myuran's paintings, given to him by the artist. The last thing Myuran had said to him was a request: 'Please make sure they abolish the death penalty in Indonesia.'\n\nAccording to the lawyer, both men were still optimistic. They were not giving up hope. Mulya again called on Jokowi to take action in response to the bribery allegations.\n\nAs the exhausted legal team furiously typed letters and workshopped strategy, they also had to deal with the practical matters of death. An official from Indonesia's Foreign Ministry had been dispatched to Cilacap, and needed the details of the funeral home in Jakarta to which the Australians' bodies were to be taken. He also requested an official letter detailing the names of all Australian officials and lawyers who would be on Nusakambangan the next night. Everyone would need a special ID.\n\nThere would be a special waiting area for them on the island, the lawyers were told. The whole process of the executions would take two to three hours. When it was done, a convoy of vehicles would depart: police cars, and two ambulances carrying the bodies of Andrew and Myuran. Myuran would be in ambulance number one and Andrew would be in number two. Details of the route from Cilacap to Jakarta were outlined.\n\nWhen it was time to identify the bodies, the Australian lawyers and Consul-General should open part of the coffin, look at the face and check the name on the coffin. No names would appear on the ambulances. There must be no phones and no cameras.\n\nThat afternoon, back at Cilicap's port, Michael Chan confirmed his brother's marriage to Feby. 'Andrew had a special day today,' he said; he and Feby had held a bit of a celebration with family and close friends. He was coy about using the word 'wedding', but confirmed the pair had married, saying it had been an enjoyable time for all.\n\n'Hopefully the president will show some compassion, some mercy, so that these two young people can carry on with their lives,' he continued. 'It is in the president's hands \u2013 please show mercy. It is tough but it is a happy time at the same time, and we just hope that the president, somewhere, will find some compassion and mercy for these two... that they can carry on with their lives.'\n\nChinthu, too, wanted to say something. The two men had become eloquent spokespeople for their families. 'All I wanted to do is ask the president again,' he began. 'I spent the last five hours watching young children playing with their parents, and I ask the president to not make orphans out of children... There are family members just crying inside the prison as we count down the hours. Please step up and show mercy.'\n\nThe strain was showing. Everyone looked tired and worn down. Like the Australian officials, the Chans were staying at the Hotel Dafam in Cilicap. Many Indonesian officials, including those in charge of the death squad, were at the Dafam hotel as well. It was an uncomfortable mix. The Sukumaran family was staying out of town, in Purwokerto, a 50-kilometre drive away, because the Dafam was booked out.\n\nThe lawyers asked the Chan and Sukumaran family members to do some interviews with Indonesian television. Raji seemed numb, almost defeated. Her eyes were dull. Looking across the hotel lobby, she spotted a woman with long hair. 'The French lady is lucky, isn't she,' she said softly to me.\n\nThe woman, Sabine Ataloui, approached Raji and embraced her. They said nothing as the embrace lingered \u2013 there were no words for what Raji was going through.\n\nUntil this moment the two women had barely met. Sabine's husband, Serge Ataloui, had been slated to die alongside Myuran and Andrew. But he had been removed from the list due to ongoing legal appeals before the 72 hours' notice was given. Raji's heart ached.\n\nIn another part of the hotel, Catholic priest Father Charlie Burrows met with the lawyers and family of Brazilian man Rodrigo Gularte. Rodrigo's cousin Angelita Muxfeldt looked exhausted and defeated. They too were trying to work on last-minute strategies. How could a man who had been diagnosed with a mental illness be executed? It just wasn't right.\n\nAs family members went in and out of media interviews, begging for mercy, telling the story again and again of the rehabilitation of Andrew and Myuran, the exhausted Raji rested on a mattress in one of the hotel's meeting rooms. She still faced a 90-minute drive that night before she would even see her bed.\n\nIn his cell at Besi prison, Myuran was painting madly, producing some of his last works. 'The Last Chapter' and 'The Second Last Day' were both self-portraits. Then came 'Falling Apart' and 'Beneath the Shadow' \u2013 further self-portraits, the artist's face streaked.\n\n# 16.\n\n# THE LAST DAY\n\nChinthu looked up to see an incredible sadness pouring from Myuran's eyes. He could feel it. He was only five or ten metres from his brother but it felt like such a long way. As they looked at each other, they felt a sorrow that needed no words.\n\n'There's only half an hour left,' Chinthu said quietly.\n\n'Let's talk, let's talk,' Myuran said, urgency in his voice.\n\nIt was almost time to say goodbye \u2013 forever. And there was so much more to say.\n\nIt was the last day, 28 April, and Myuran had asked Chinthu to go to the jail office to check the time. No one on this death island was allowed to wear a watch \u2013 not the prisoners, for whom time was ticking, and not their visitors and loved ones. The reason was never explained but Andrew suspected it was for security reasons \u2013 so the prisoners could not anticipate guard changes, for instance.\n\nMyuran talked about Chinthu's future. 'I want you to do big things,' he said. 'Don't worry about me \u2013 I'll be okay. Make sure you take care of Mum and Dad and Brintha. You need to get past this. You need to make the most of every opportunity. Don't be sad for me. You will move past this.'\n\nThere were nine families there \u2013 mothers, fathers, siblings, wives, children, girlfriends. It was surreal, almost like a Sunday afternoon picnic in the park. Mary Jane's children, two boys, played around as their bubbly and likeable mother flittered here and there. Each family was in its own space; some were talking, some holding hands and praying. All were savouring every single minute.\n\nVisitors were limited on this last day. Raji's family had already been. She had asked them to come to the prison, but to give her and her immediate family \u2013 Sam, Chinthu and Brintha \u2013 their final hours with Myuran. It was 10.30 a.m. by the time they left, taking with them some of Myuran's final paintings, as well as his wooden easel. The painter had completed his final works.\n\nMulya said his goodbyes at the same time. Such a politically sensitive case had been difficult for Mulya, and had earned him some critics and even enemies. Disembarking the ferry at Cilacap, he proudly displayed Myuran's still-wet art, with the extended Sukumaran family behind him, clutching the last works he would ever paint \u2013 two profound images and two self-portraits.\n\n'Satu Hati, Satu Rasa di Dalam Cinta' \u2013 or 'One Heart, One Feeling in Love' \u2013 was the name Myuran gave to his painting of a heart, dripping with blood, which he had completed not long before. On the back of the canvas were the signatures of some of the nine who would be killed with him. 'God Bless Indonesia,' wrote Okwudili Oyatanze, a gospel singer who had written and released CDs from jail. Sylvester Obiekwe Nwolise, a fellow Nigerian, wrote: 'Am covered with the blood of Jesus Christ.' Mary Jane Veloso: 'Jesus always love us until the eternal life. Mary Jane. Keep smile.' Raheem Agbaje Salami wrote the words 'One Love'. Zainal Abidin, the only Indonesian in the group and a Muslim, simply signed his name. So too did Andrew Chan. Myuran himself wrote his name alongside a simple inscription: 'Besi Prison, Nusakambangan, 28\/04\/2015'. It was their last day alive. The messages and signatures symbolised the bond that had developed between the nine prisoners, the love that had formed.\n\nMyuran had thought deeply as he painted his final works, the pieces he knew would be remembered long after he took his final breath. He stayed up late into the night painting, surviving on little sleep, desperate to complete as many works as possible before his brushes and paints were taken away. Sometimes Andrew helped him name the paintings.\n\nHis last painting was a haunting image of the Indonesian flag, the red and white \u2013 the red dripping onto the white, blood being spilled. The death row prisoners had also signed it on the back and dipped their fingers in the red and then stamped their signatures with a fingerprint.\n\nOne of Mulya's staff held it up at the port, the paint still drying. It was titled simply '28\/04\/2015'. On the reverse, the words 'Pasal 340 KUHP' were in the top left-hand corner \u2013 a reference to Article 340 of the Indonesian Criminal Code, which concerned 'premeditated murder'. It was poignant and powerful.\n\nThis time, Mary Jane wrote part of her message in Indonesian: 'Bersuka citalah karena tuhan sudah menanggil kita. Mary Jane. Keep Smile.'\n\nSylvester: 'Am covered with blood of Jesus Christ.'\n\nSteven (Raheem): 'God will is the Best.'\n\nOkwudili: 'God bless Indonesia.'\n\nAgain, Zainal Abidin and Andrew had signed the canvas.\n\nThe evident bond between the eight men and one woman was extraordinary. Until the last 72 hours was about to be declared, only Myuran, Andrew and Raheem were in the isolation cells of Besi prison. Mary Jane was transferred from her Yogyakarta prison just one day before they were given their 72 hours' notice. The others were also then moved in, and very soon the group was eating together, praying together and planning their deaths together.\n\nMulya said the paintings were marvellous. When he left Besi prison, he revealed, both Andrew and Myuran were still upbeat. Andrew was leading prayers with his family and close friends. As Mulya prepared to go, Myuran had told him: 'Thank you for believing in us, and please fight for the abolition of the death penalty.' It was the last thing his clients said to him, the lawyer noted; it was something they wanted everyone to do.\n\nSome of Andrew's friends, former Kerobokan prison inmates, were among those visiting. Gede Arthanya didn't say the word 'goodbye' to his friend, a man who meant everything to him. He had first met Andrew one month after he was jailed. In October 2013 Gede converted to Christianity: Andrew had brought him to Jesus, turning his life around. 'I love you,' Gede told his friend as he left. He hadn't meant to cry but he did.\n\n'I love you too, Gede,' said Andrew. 'Just pray for one thing, that we will never die.' He was still hoping to make people laugh.\n\nAccording to another former prisoner, when Andrew's friends and family started to cry at one point, Andrew had suggested they all pray to the Lord.\n\nThat morning, at the HOM Premiere hotel in Cilacap, Julian and Veronica tried to get some breakfast to fortify themselves. News had come through that the Judicial Commission in Jakarta had dismissed Muhammad Rifan's allegations of bribery during the initial trial at the Denpasar District Court.\n\nJulian almost choked as he read the statement that had been released overnight. It said, among other things, that the Judicial Commission had handled the investigation professionally, carefully and without intervention from any parties. 'The Judicial Commission does not have the authority to change the Judge's decision,' it read, 'including cancelling the execution and the implementation of the death penalty of Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran.'\n\nFurther, the Judicial Commission hoped the Supreme Court would actively investigate the alleged bribe to the judges handling the two cases. It asked both parties to respect the legal process of Indonesia.\n\nPresident Widodo had also had something to say on the matter, questioning why the bribery allegations had been brought up at the eleventh hour, given that Rifan alleged the offence had occurred way back in 2005.\n\nJulian was fuming and the day had barely begun. As far as he knew, the commission had not spoken to any witnesses \u2013 certainly they had never contacted Andrew or Myuran. How could there have been a careful and professional investigation if nobody was interviewed? And there had been no communication with the lawyers either. It was extraordinary.\n\nAround him, the Indonesian officials tasked with organising the executions ate breakfast. So too did the family and lawyers of Zainal Abidin, the sole Indonesian among the condemned. The breakfast room was crowded. There were not enough tables and chairs as parties from all sides of the execution business sat crammed together \u2013 police officers with guns on their hips, Justice Ministry officials, prosecutors, lawyers and the media.\n\nThe day only got worse. Rumours circulated that Andrew and Myuran would not be allowed to be accompanied that night by the spiritual advisers of their choice from Australia; they would be forced to spend their final three minutes (the allotted time for last rites) with Indonesian pastors they didn't know. It seemed that the Indonesians were unhappy about who Andrew and Myuran had chosen. Myuran, at one stage, had wanted Julian to be with him. Andrew had asked that he be with Feby. The Australians believed that, under the execution legislation, it was lawful for a pastor or a lawyer to be present.\n\nAndrew's request was denied on the grounds that he and Feby were husband and wife. Meanwhile, the Indonesian prosecutors had busily googled the name 'Julian McMahon'. He was their lawyer, and clearly in press photographs with them. He wouldn't be allowed either. So a decision was made that two Indonesians would be with the men.\n\nMatius Arif, the former prisoner from Kerobokan, had studied law before his jail convictions; he'd been in the same class as at least one of the Bali prosecutors. When he got wind of the plans to assign Andrew and Myuran Indonesian pastors they did not know, he met the prosecutors. He said he would report them to the Human Rights Commission if Andrew and Myuran were denied their own spiritual advisers. The issue was then sorted: David Soper could be with Andrew and Christie Buckingham could be with Myuran. Both were pastors and had their credentials with them.\n\nStill there was more trauma to come. When the families arrived at the Cilacap port for their last trip to the island, new barricades had been set up; their vans were forced to stop way back from the entrance. Police and military were everywhere. It seemed the families would not be able to drive right up to the port building, as they had done previously.\n\nAnxious not to lose any precious last moments with the boys, and distraught at the Indonesians' unthinking bureaucracy, the families and lawyers got out of the vans and started walking. It seemed the only thing to do. They walked straight into a throng of waiting media, police and snarling police dogs.\n\nStruggling to get through, and with Australian officials and supporters trying to clear a path, a guttural howl pierced the air, drowning out the shouts of police and their barking dogs. Brintha could hold it in no longer. Screaming, she was half-carried through the crowd by family members.\n\nLong after the family was safely inside the port building, the screams continued, echoing through the building and outside, as family members tried to calm Brintha. But the months of pent-up anguish, held deep inside, could not be contained any longer. Rattled officials appeared and asked Veronica to calm things down.\n\nAfter the families departed for the island on the small ferries, the execution preparations intensified. The local police chief crossed to Nusakambangan to check preparations. Nine ambulances drove through, numbers on their windshields. Inside each vehicle was a coffin shrouded in decorative white material. Wooden crosses, engraved with the names of the nine and their dates of birth and death, had already been made.\n\nAt Besi prison, Sam Sukumaran was not at all well and spent time lying in a room at the jail. Myuran was worried about him and kept asking Chinthu to go and check on him. The family had brought lunch but Myuran couldn't eat. Raji urged him to have something, offering him food with her hand. He was her baby. She couldn't help herself.\n\nRaji wanted Myuran to do the talking, not her. All she wanted to say was that she loved him. They held hands and touched. At one stage, Myuran patted the bench beside him. 'Come and sit here, Ma.' She had been standing behind him, holding him.\n\nOut of the corner of his eye, Chinthu noticed guards moving closer. It startled him. Raji saw it too and her heart started beating faster. Why were they standing there? Were they going to drag him away already? Her mind was racing. They held Myuran's hand. He had seen it too.\n\n'Don't worry \u2013 focus on me,' Myuran told them. 'Don't worry, don't worry.'\n\nNo one actually said their time was up. But it seemed inevitable. Julian too saw the guards quietly moving around.\n\nMary Jane was wearing a T-shirt with the words 'Jesus I trust in you' and a picture depicting Jesus. She started screaming. 'Some people were told 2 p.m. and some people told 4 p.m.' She had thought the families could stay longer. 'I was told four o'clock, four o'clock,' she cried. 'I haven't spent time properly with my children.' She started howling. 'Need some more, need some more!' She screamed that she had wasted her time doing procedural things. Someone should have told her it was 2 p.m.\n\nHer elder child wrapped his arms around her. The younger one leaned on her. Mary Jane showered her children with kisses. Julian watched silently, struck by the poverty etched into the face of Mary Jane's mother. She had only one tooth, and the lines on her face were those that only sustained poverty can bring. She wept helplessly, the weeping of the powerless. The anguish of the Philippino family was unbearable. Little children and a mother saying goodbye. Their pain was unconstrained and unquenchable to Julian. Gradually they were eased apart. Everyone seemed to be watching. Julian kept thinking it was unimaginable to take this woman and kill her and leave those two little children.\n\nSylvester leant against a wall, bereft. His family were weeping uncontrollably. Female prison guards were in tears. Male guards stood in shock.\n\nMartin Anderson was alone. His poverty-stricken wife had already left to make the journey to Jakarta to collect his body. They were too poor to arrange someone else to do it.\n\nNow Raji and Brintha were moaning, guttural howls.\n\nHelen draped herself around Andrew, sobbing and sobbing. Michael stood quietly behind, holding plastic bags of empty food containers. Everybody was frozen. The nine families howled and cried. Veronica went to the gate where Andrew's close friends were waiting, having already said farewell.\n\nThe prisoners had been allowed to make a series of approved phone calls, and Andrew called Ken and the family in Sydney. He said what he needed to say, when he could finally get a proper line. There was little phone credit on the mobiles that had been provided, and it was quickly chewed up by calling Australia. It was yet another frustration for the families.\n\nAndrew had been desperate not to put either of his parents through the ordeal of this last day. But Helen would not stay away. She needed him and he needed her while Ken and Andrew's sisters remained in Sydney.\n\nVeronica had convinced the guard to let Chan family friend Alan Wilkins back inside. 'Grab those bags from Michael,' she told him, 'because he needs to look after his mother.' Alan took the bags and silently, sadly retreated. Veronica saw the look in Andrew's eyes as Helen clung to him. He was going to break. She knew him and she knew that look. How were they ever going to get the mothers to let go of their sons? It was heartbreaking chaos and everyone was traumatised.\n\nFeby comforted Helen. 'It's okay, Mum, he's okay.' Feby was incredibly strong that day \u2013 she gave Andrew strength.\n\nThe Sukumarans hugged Myuran. Each one clung to him for 20 or 30 seconds. Raji was last, hugging him as tightly as she could. Eventually, Myuran and Chinthu locked eyes, big brother urging little brother to do what no one wanted to do \u2013 take the mother away from the son she had nurtured in her womb.\n\nChinthu felt the weight of expectation: everyone was looking to him to care for his mother. He gently prised Raji away.\n\nVeronica had hugged Myuran and told him she was proud of him. Andrew asked her to look after Feby. She would. Veronica kissed him on the cheek too. 'I'm so proud of you.' He beamed.\n\nThe prisoners went into the office area. There was one small window, up high, open to allow air in. Andrew, Myuran and the other seven crowded at the window. Their families on the other side thrust their hands up, seeking one last touch through the bars of the window. No one wanted the goodbye to end. Hands everywhere, tears, love. A decade of heartbreak poured out. Time stood still. Myuran asked Brintha to look after Raheem's girlfriend, Angela. Seconds were precious now.\n\nThe prisoners walked away. It had to happen. As he moved away, Myuran turned his head one final time to look at his family. It was the last thing they saw.\n\nIt was a magical second for Julian. Myuran turning around and looking over his shoulder in the midst of everything that was happening. That second that he was saying, we part forever, I am undefeated. Julian watched him intently. He wanted to burn that casual, over the shoulder glance into his mind because it felt like one of those extraordinary moments that many people never see in a lifetime.\n\nAs the legal team left, the guards apologised. 'I am so sorry, I am so sorry,' one said. 'It wasn't my decision.'\n\nJulian was overwhelmed by the sense of absurdity \u2013 that good, young men who had made mistakes and committed serious crimes were having their innocent families put through this. He was brutally aware that they were being killed for reasons that were inadequate and unjust.\n\nEveryone sat in shocked silence as the bus drove them away from the jail to the port. Raji had her head down. The misery didn't need words. The silence shattered only once, when Helen poured out her grief: 'Andrew!' Her guttural scream startled them all. Her heart was broken. All their hearts were broken.\n\nThe silent families caught the jail boat from Nusakambangan to Cilacap. There, Michael and Chinthu walked slowly towards the media throng. The awful business of an execution was now in full swing. Media satellite trucks were set up, generators were humming, police were everywhere. The dogs, so menacing earlier in the day, were in their cages. About 1200 police and military personnel had been brought in for the executions.\n\nMichael went first. 'I'd like to say that our brothers were dignified at our last visit and we are very upset as a family to have to go through this,' he said. 'No human being should ever have to go through this. It's torture. Anyone with a heart \u2013' he paused and shook his head \u2013 'would forgive these guys for what they have done and show them mercy. I call on the president to exercise that, that he still has a chance to stop this cruel, undignified way of torture.'\n\nClutching one of Myuran's recent paintings, Chinthu took a breath. 'Mr President, I ask you please to show mercy,' he said. 'You're ordering the murder of nine people, and those people have families that love them and they don't need to die. I ask you to please show mercy. Myu is at peace with what may happen. He knows that he has to be strong and take care of the other eight people with him, and that's his focus. But I ask the president, please, the Indonesian people, please show mercy. Please, President Jokowi, please exercise your powers, intervene and save the lives of these nine people. Thank you.'\n\nAs they walked away, Michael patted Chinthu's back. These two men, from different backgrounds, were shouldering an enormous burden, and had been for ten years now. Both had just had to separate their mothers from their brothers. Their lives would never be the same again.\n\nThe buses pulled into a hotel parking lot and the saddest procession of people got out in silence. Helen was helped to a room. She looked frail, hunched over, clutching a tissue. Further down, the Sukumarans went into another room. There was little left to do but wait and pray.\n\nBuilding work was going on at the hotel. Makeshift bamboo scaffolding was everywhere. A second floor appeared to be under construction. It was basic but it was the only hotel in town the Australian officials could find that would accommodate them all as they waited for the executions to be done. Everywhere else was booked out \u2013 by Indonesian officials, family members, the media.\n\nThe Chans and Sukumarans did not want their grief to be private. They wanted the world to know the heartbreak and the senselessness of this madness. Slowly, they emerged from their rooms and walked towards the microphones and cameras. The waiting media was in shock too. None of us had covered anything like this before.\n\nMichael came forward. Behind him stood Andrew's staunchest supporters, those who had spent his final hours with him: Helen, Alan and Ann Wilkins, David Soper, Miranda Ridington. Ann held Helen's left arm as Helen clutched a tissue. The Sukumaran family was there too.\n\n'Today was probably one of the hardest days I think we will face as a family,' Michael started. 'To see Andrew hold up the way he did, being dignified, courageous...'\n\nAs his voice broke, Alan put his hand on Michael's shoulder, comforting and giving him strength.\n\n'... in these tough and dark hours. I saw today something that no other family should ever have to go through. Nine families inside a prison saying goodbye to their loved ones. Kids, mothers, cousins, brothers, sisters \u2013 you name it, they were all there. And to walk out of there and say goodbye for the last time, it's torture. No family should go through that.\n\n'There has to be a moratorium on the death penalty. No family should endure it because now the family is going to have a grieving process for the rest of their life, not only to lose a loved one but to grieve for the rest of their life. I just hope the president in some... somewhere in his heart, that he can find some courage to show mercy to these nine individuals and call this off because it's not too late. It's up to him.'\n\nChinthu came forward, with Brintha clutching his arm. She was sobbing, and Michael moved forward to console her. 'We spent the last few hours with my brother,' Chinthu said. 'We didn't have much time. There were so many things to talk about. We did talk about the death penalty and he knows this is just a waste. He knows this is not going to solve anything with drugs. He knows drug trafficking is still going to be there. If these nine people die today, tomorrow, next week, next month, it's still not going to stop anything. I ask the president to please show mercy, please don't let my mum and my sister have to bury my brother. Please, please, I ask the Indonesian people to show mercy.'\n\nBrintha, a portrait of grief, started talking through her tears. 'Please don't do this to my brother, please, please, Mr President Joko Widodo, I'm begging, please don't take my brother from me. Please. Please.' She closed her eyes, gripping Chinthu's arm. Calm and patient, Chinthu waited for her to finish. He had more to say.\n\n'He told us that he is going to be strong,' he said, 'that him and Andrew are going to take care of the other seven people, and he is worried for Mary Jane and for her family as well. He just knows this is a waste. And we still have hope, right up until the last second, that the president will see each of these people as individuals, as people with families that love them, and show mercy.'\n\nRaji was distraught but she wanted to tell the world what it felt like to say goodbye to her healthy and vibrant son. Sam was with her. 'I just had to say goodbye to my son,' she wept. 'I won't see him again, and they are going to take him at midnight and shoot him. He is healthy and he is beautiful and he has a lot of compassion for other people. I'm asking the government not to kill him. Mr President, please don't kill him today. Please don't, call off the execution. Please don't take my son. Please don't.' She sobbed, burying her head in Sam's shoulder.\n\nChinthu helped her move away and the families retreated to their rooms. To pray. To cry. To hope for a miracle. Chinthu couldn't stay still. He walked from one room to another. He sipped stale coffee. He constantly watched his multiple mobile phones for any news; months earlier, he had set up Google Alerts to monitor any news about the executions. No one was giving up hope that the president would call off the executions. The attorney-general in Jakarta had still not yet formerly announced that the executions would take place that night. Until he did, surely there was hope.\n\nChinthu talked to the media who were at the hotel, filing their stories. Was there any news? Was there any word from Jakarta yet? Surely, until that happened this was not a certainty. Surely there was some hope, in the absence of an announcement.\n\nAt 9.30 p.m. Attorney-General Muhammad Prasetyo ended the wait. The executions of nine people would take place after midnight.\n\n# 17.\n\n# PREPARING THE SPIRIT\n\nChristie Buckingham went to David Soper's hotel room door. She was wearing her pastor's collar. Myuran had initially told her he wanted the 'full robes', but she didn't have them with her. She knocked the secret knock she and David had devised so he would know it was her. It was almost time to go.\n\nThey had one last thing they needed to do. Their heads bowed, they prayed \u2013 for strength, for guidance, for wisdom, that they would be everything the boys needed them to be that night. Christie prayed for David, and then he prayed for her. They agreed to stick together. It was a simple and poignant prayer for the pastor and the chaplain.\n\nChristie went to the room where the Sukumaran family was waiting. Raji called them all together to pray. They prayed for Myuran, that he would be strong. They prayed for a last-minute reprieve and for Christie, to give her strength for the night ahead. They prayed for the Chan family. Some of the family had notes and letters they wanted Myuran to have. They sang a few songs and told a few stories. It was intimate and thoughtful. The tears were gentle.\n\nTina Bailey and Denise Payne had both come to Cilacap. Myuran had considered asking Tina to be his spiritual adviser that night, but he wanted his spiritual adviser to speak out against the death penalty after he was gone, and believed that asking this of Tina might jeopardise her work at the prison.\n\nNow Christie spent some moments with the two women. 'I can't do this alone,' she told them. 'I know you guys will be praying for me but is there some way that I can take you with me?'\n\nTina offered her gold-coloured religious stole, which Christie hung around her neck. Denise gave Christie her treasured butterfly pendant. It symbolised how people can change, just as caterpillars turn into butterflies. Significantly, 'People Can Change' was the name Myuran had given to his painting of President Joko Widodo. It was a simple yet powerful statement, and both Myuran and Andrew had changed so much.\n\nChristie had spent the whole day in her hotel room, praying and seeking guidance. She had not gone to the island for the final visits and the dreadful goodbye, as visitor numbers were limited. She wanted to fully prepare herself. She wrote in her journal that she had 'a desire to be fully present to assist in whatever way I can to whomever I can'. She would withhold any feelings for herself, she noted, or recognition of her own needs in order to fully stand with and be completely present for Myuran.\n\nShe had a list of the things Myuran wanted to do on the field during the time he was tied up before the execution, and the songs he wanted to sing. Christie and Myuran had been through it all the day before, and Christie had agreed to bring the list in case they needed prompting when the time came. She went through the list now, in her head, making sure nothing had been overlooked.\n\nMyuran had thought deeply about his final moments, when he would be strapped down and facing the firing squad. He had told Christie he wanted everything that night \u2013 the works. 'What do you normally do when someone is dying?'\n\nShe had explained that, usually, she would go through some scriptures, ask for forgiveness, have a period of consecration, and anoint them with oil.\n\nPrivately, though, she recognised that this was not something she had trained for in any way \u2013 ministering at the death of a healthy young man, in his prime, who had years of life ahead of him. Christie and her husband, Rob, both pastors at the Bayside Church in Melbourne, had assisted at about 200 deaths, but these had always been of people whose bodies were weak or who had been in accidents. Never like this.\n\n'The most important thing I want to say,' Myuran had told her, 'is that I forgive people, and I want to declare a blessing on Indonesia; it is really important that's among the last things I want to say. Can you just remind me that there are things I want to say?'\n\nChristie, David, Julian, Veronica and Majell drove together from the hotel to the port, where they would take the ferry to Nusakambangan. It was about 7 p.m. No one knew exactly what was going to happen. An Australian embassy official briefed them. 'We are not sure what is going to happen, or how far you will get, or how long you will have. One thing for you to know is the Indonesian word for please: _tolong_.'\n\nIt was an intense journey and there was no talking. Christie and David were to be taken to the cells where Andrew and Myuran were waiting. Julian, Veronica and Majell were to go to a marquee set up near the dock.\n\nAs the lawyers and spiritual advisers separated, Julian put his hand on Christie's shoulder. 'Just make sure the boys get what they need,' he said. 'They won't shoot you.'\n\n'If I get shot,' Christie replied, 'tell my husband and family I love them and I will see them on the other side.'\n\nJulian said the same thing to Father Charlie Burrows, who was ministering to Rodrigo Gularte, the mentally ill Brazilian man.\n\nSecurity was incredibly tight as the spiritual advisers were driven to the jail cells. The driver wore a black mask over his face and head. Every hundred metres or so they were stopped so guards could check for mobile phones and other banned articles. At one point, to break the tension, Christie said, ' _Saya tidak gila_ ,' or 'I'm not crazy' \u2013 of course she didn't have a mobile phone.\n\nAt the jail, Christie was searched by female guards. Her mouth, nose, ears \u2013 everything was checked.\n\n'What are you looking for?' she asked.\n\n'Razor blades or tablets, to pass to the prisoners.'\n\nNothing was being left to chance or overlooked.\n\n'We are so sorry,' one guard told her. 'Myuran is such an inspiration to us. We have seen his painting. We are so sorry that this is happening.' Myuran was looking forward to seeing her, the guard said, and had showered and was waiting for her with his Bible.\n\nChristie saw Rodrigo Gularte. 'Sister, they are singing,' he said to her. 'Am I going to church?'\n\n'No, Rodrigo, I think you are going to heaven,' she replied.\n\nHe wanted to know if there were snipers in heaven.\n\nChristie assured him that Father Charlie was on his way and would look after him.\n\nBy now it was about 10 p.m. A guard told Christie and David that they had about an hour with Andrew and Myuran, who were sharing a cell. The Australians greeted them as they arrived. Andrew hugged Christie warmly.\n\n'Welcome to my place,' Myuran said. 'Have you eaten? Would you like some chocolate?'\n\nMyuran took Christie to a mat on the cell floor, which was actually his bed. He was showered and ready. 'Make sure you tell Mum that,' he said, wanting her to know that he had done exactly as she had asked.\n\nChristie recounted how Raji had called everyone together for prayer that evening. Myuran beamed: his mother was strong and amazing. 'You remind me of her,' he told Christie.\n\nDavid and Andrew sat together on Andrew's sleeping mat, but it was obvious the two parties needed their own space so they could prepare in privacy for what was to come. David asked if he and Andrew could go outside. The guards agreed.\n\nChristie gave Myuran the letters from his family. He read through them. So much love. Then he tapped the Bible and told Christie, 'This is what I want to talk about.' He said he wanted to make sure he had all the 'brownie points' he could muster for later that night.\n\nMyuran had been brought up in a Christian family but had frequently questioned his faith. As a young man he had been ambivalent, then lapsed. He didn't really know what he believed. Back in January, when his clemency request was denied, he had said he was angry with God but didn't know why, because he didn't know if he even believed in him.\n\nChristie had her small, well-thumbed travel Bible with her; Myuran had his. They started reading Genesis, then moved to Exodus 14:14, about God fighting our battles. Christie and Myuran had first spoken of this back in February.\n\nThey moved on to one of Myuran's favourite verses, Micah 6:8: ' _And what does the Lord require of you? To act justly and to love mercy and to walk humbly with your God_.' Myuran told Christie he liked the simplicity of the verse. She talked about providing shelter and clothing, and feeding the hungry. Myuran had been doing this, through his work with other prisoners back at Kerobokan.\n\nHe asked after a baby boy in Africa whom Christie's church had adopted. Julian had chosen his Christian name: Myu Mpilo Michael. Myuran wanted to know if the baby's AIDS test had come back clear, and what would happen to him next. He asked what the name Mpilo meant \u2013 it was the Zulu word for 'life', Christie said. Smiling, Myuran hoped the boy would have a long and good life.\n\nThey moved to the Book of Psalms. Myuran read out a scripture which one of his aunts had sent over for him. He talked about his love for his family, for his aunts and uncles. Flicking through the two Bibles at once, they next went to the 'Roman Road', a selection of verses from St Paul's Epistle to the Romans. Christie had a copy of it stuck in the front her Bible. 'You're making me do Bible gymnastics,' she joked to him.\n\n'This matters most right now,' he told her.\n\nMyuran looked up each verse of the Roman Road, reading it aloud and following the text with his finger. As they read, Myuran noticed that Christie had in her Bible the song sheet for later that night. He smiled, pleased she had remembered. They were organised and ready.\n\nHe read Psalm 121 at least four times. ' _The Lord will keep you from all harm, he will watch over your life; the Lord will_ _watch over your coming and going both now and forevermore_.' He pondered the word 'forevermore'.\n\nMyuran liked the fact that God would protect his steps. He didn't want to make a fool of himself that night, he told Christie; he didn't want to fall down or stumble as he was being led out for execution. They discussed that he would be walking in shackles. Myuran knew what it felt like, and how hard it was to walk. 'Just take small steps,' Christie told him.\n\nTheir discussion ranged in this way from the spiritual to the practical. Myuran asked Christie to take his asthma inhaler in case he needed it later; he didn't want to be coughing or struggling to breathe at the end. He wanted to be calm and in control. He asked her to give the inhaler to his mum when it was over, and to give a hoodie of his to Brintha.\n\nThe end was nearing, and Myuran was thinking about how he would be remembered forevermore. He spoke about surrendering himself to God. They read Psalm 23: ' _In the presence of my enemies you have prepared a table before me_...' He loved that part and they read the psalm three times.\n\nChristie asked him what table God was preparing for him, and what the table meant to him.\n\nMyuran answered by talking about his family, about love and nurturing. He said that for him to die with courage, honour and dignity would be God preparing a table for him. He was calm. Often when Myuran was stressed his eyes twitched, but tonight it was like a switch had been turned off. Christie was struck by the fact his eyes did not twitch at all during those final hours.\n\nHe wanted to be brave. 'At this moment I feel calm and brave,' he said, 'and I just want to be like that on the field. I feel like God is preparing the table for me to do that... does that make sense?'\n\nYes, she told him, it made perfect sense. 'It's about one step at a time,' she reminded him. 'And the closer it gets, it's about one breath at a time.'\n\nThey talked about the seven deadly sins: envy, gluttony, greed or avarice, lust, pride, sloth and wrath. 'I have done all of those,' Myuran said.\n\nChristie assured him that everyone had.\n\nMyuran was grateful for the ten years he had spent in jail, which had helped him to alleviate his own shame and that of his family. 'Had I died ten years ago, I would have died a criminal,' he said, 'but now I can honestly say I have done everything I can, not only to change me but to change other people's lives and to change them.'\n\nUntil this moment, he said, he had never really understood love. He came from a loving family but had never understood true love. He cared about other people and realised how much love came his way when he turned outward and looked at and helped other people.\n\nChristie was struck by his honesty.\n\n'I always thought I would get married and have children, and that would show me what love is,' he told her. 'But I actually now know what true love is.'\n\nMyuran wanted to write a note for his mentor, Ben Quilty. He started scribbling madly on some post-it notes that Christie had inside her Bible. He wanted Ben to know that in some of the last paintings there was a darkness over his head, a black hole over his heart. But the next day, he didn't feel like that anymore \u2013 he didn't feel like he needed to focus on that but on the light as he looked to it. 'Ben should see,' he wrote.\n\nAt the beginning, when he was painting his final works, he was focused on how they would kill him. He had painted a single bullet. The wooden cross to which he would be tied. In those paintings, darkness was over his head. But in his last paintings he had looked beyond this. When he did the last paintings, he said, it was like something falling off him.\n\n'I came in here as a criminal and I leave as a successful artist,' he told Christie. 'Now I know that my mum and dad and family will be proud of me.' He finally knew love, an everlasting love. He loved his lawyers too, Julian and Veronica, and spoke fondly of them to Christie.\n\nMyuran pointed to the wall of his cell, just above his mat on the floor. A page of dates was stuck there. There was also a note in his handwriting:\n\nEvery day above ground is a good day\n\n10 a day practice started 16-04-2015\n\nThe journey is the reward it's not the\n\naccomplishment of something incredible\n\nit's the doing of something incredible, day\n\nin day out, getting the chance to\n\nparticipate in something really incredible.\n\nThe first date on the wall was 4 March 2015 \u2013 the day he and Andrew were transferred from Kerobokan to Nusakambangan. The last was 28 April 2015 \u2013 today, the last day of his life.\n\nSince 16 April he had been focusing every day on ten things he could be grateful for. Christie and her husband, Rob, had suggested this practice to Myuran some time ago, but it wasn't until this moment that Christie realised he had been doing it. She was amazed by his dedication: most people, even outside prison, could think of only three things a day.\n\nMyuran spoke about how much this had helped him. He didn't have to think much further than his family and friends to come up with ten. Some of the guards were even on the list. Ten seemed like a good number, he told Christie.\n\nHe was now so attentive to everything. Grateful when he ate something that tasted good; grateful for the breeze; grateful when he saw new things as he painted. Myuran told Christie how angry he had been when his clemency was rejected. Rob had been visiting him at the jail that day, and explained that it was okay to be angry with God, who had big shoulders. This had surprised Myuran. He started to realise that if he was talking to God and being angry with him, then he must believe that he existed.\n\nHe told Christie he had highlighted a 16-day period, from his arrival at Nusakambangan, when he had started to explore his anger and had been saying short, simple prayers. He had circled 27 March, which related to a time when he had felt God's love come over him, like he was standing in a shower. He had felt things falling from him. Everything had started to make sense, he said \u2013 even sharing the cell with Andrew.\n\nChristie took Myuran's hand. Was he scared? she asked.\n\n'Of being shot? No, I am not scared of being shot at all. I just want to make sure that my life is right before God.'\n\nChristie put her hand on his chest to see if there was any anxiety. There was none. Myuran had less than two hours to live but he was calm and at peace. Relaxed. Christie felt like time was standing still.\n\nThey moved on to confession. Myuran prayed and asked for forgiveness. He forgave those who had in any way sought his forgiveness. He asked Christie to continue to speak out against the death penalty, and to take care of his mother and sister. The only thing he hated was the death penalty. He apologised to Christie for not painting her the image of the cross that he had promised. Time had run out.\n\n'Let's do it now,' Christie said, urging him to close his eyes. 'If you can imagine God in this room now, where would he be?'\n\nMyuran reached out his arm, pointing in front of him.\n\nChristie asked if he was seeing God the Father, God the Son or God the Holy Spirit.\n\n'God the Son. I see Jesus.' He told Christie he had bronze-coloured eyes.\n\n'What is he saying to you?'\n\nMyuran sat quietly, contemplating, then smiled, his body relaxing. He said Jesus had a cross in his hand. 'It's gold, it's beautiful... it's beautiful. I have never seen that before, it's beautiful.' Myuran told Christie he felt a warmth come over him: he felt comfortable, safe, at peace.\n\nChristie said it was the spiritual presence of God, there in that jail cell on this death island.\n\nThe pastor was amazed. She had expected both Myuran and Andrew to be anxious, especially as the appointed time of their death grew closer. But Myuran's smile was more radiant than ever. Christie was struck by his eyes, which were alive, fiery and compassionate at the same time.\n\nChristie told him that no question was off-limits: she didn't want him to feel inadequate or unprepared in any way. 'If you are frightened, you tell me,' she said. 'If you are angry, you tell me, so I can guide you for how you need to be when you walk out onto that field.'\n\nAs they prayed, the songs of Myuran's childhood were coming back to him. He was surprised. He started remembering 'Jesus Loves the Little Children', a hymn he'd sung as a child.\n\nHe took communion, insisting on opening the little cups of wine. Christie prayed for him and anointed him with the oil she had brought with her. He commented on the nice smell, saying it was better than the oil in Indonesia, which reminded him of fish and chips. 'Would you take it and anoint me in Australia?' he asked. 'And please do a communion with my family and anoint them with the same oil. Would there be enough for that? Please keep it safe.'\n\nAfter Christie anointed Myuran on his forehead and hands, a silence descended on the cell. He smiled. They prayed a prayer of consecration and Christie committed Myuran to the Lord.\n\nShe sensed time was almost up. As Myuran was praying, a guard moved towards the cell and held up a finger. They had just one more minute.\n\nPrayers and confessions were happening along the row of cells, for all nine of those to be executed, Christians and Muslims alike.\n\nFather Charlie was with Rodrigo. Arrested in August 2004, he had been convicted of attempting to smuggle 6 kilograms of cocaine into Indonesia, hidden in surfboards. He had also been diagnosed as suffering from paranoid schizophrenia and bipolar disorder. He'd experienced mental disorders since he was a young child, and had been treated in psychiatric institutions before his arrest in Indonesia.\n\nHis lawyers had fought hard for a stay of execution because of his mental illness. But Attorney-General Prasetyo said the government's own psychiatrists \u2013 two police doctors \u2013 had examined the Brazilian and declared him mentally fit for execution. Their reports were never provided to his lawyers or family. Only pregnant women and children under 18 years were exempt from execution, Prasetyo claimed.\n\nThe lawyers disagreed, arguing that the law specified that a mentally ill person could not be punished in this way.\n\nCharlie tried to explain to Rodrigo that he was being executed that night. He'd been attempting to tell him this for the past three days, but Rodrigo was paranoid and hearing voices. Charlie had a hard time convincing Rodrigo that he had to leave his cell that night. He was afraid that snipers in the trees would get him, or that he would be shot in the car.\n\nAndrew walked back into the cell. 'I'm up first, mate,' he said. The guards had come to take him. He hugged Christie, asking her to give his glasses case to Feby. 'I'm going to wear my glasses because I'm as blind as a bat without them,' he said.\n\nHe was wearing the wedding ring Feby had placed so lovingly on his finger the day before. It was actually David's ring, of course, but Andrew intended to wear it at his death. 'Make sure they get this on the other side,' he said to Christie.\n\nAndrew and Myuran wanted to go into Raheem's cell to pray with him as he was anointed with oil. The guards initially wouldn't allow it but then relented, letting the men hug and pray together. Andrew prayed a simple blessing; Myuran said, 'Yes, amen.'\n\nMyuran, now handcuffed, motioned for Christie to walk ahead of him. But it wasn't allowed; the guard told Myuran he must go in front. This was the walk of the condemned, past all the cells. Myuran told Christie to help him if he started singing and forgot the words.\n\n'Amazing grace, how sweet the sound that saved a wretch like me...' But for the singing of the dead men walking, there was silence.\n\nMary Jane was in the final cell. She was dressed in white and getting ready to leave.\n\n'I'll see you down there,' Myuran called to her.\n\nThe wardens formed a guard of honour to say goodbye. Myuran and Andrew threw their handcuffed arms over their heads and around them in one final goodbye. No one stopped them, despite the obvious security risk this could have posed. These two men were no risk, the guards knew. Some had tears in their eyes. They apologised: 'We are so sorry...'\n\nThe prisoners kept singing. As they reached the door of the cell block, the shackles were put on \u2013 a chain running down from the waist, and attached to chains around each leg. 'Small steps,' Christie reminded Myuran. He nodded back. Now his hands were cable-tied behind his back. She walked beside him, her hand on his elbow. 'Small steps, small steps...'\n\nJust outside the door, Myuran stopped. He craned his neck back and looked up at the sky. No one hurried him \u2013 they let him be. He looked at the sky, the stars, shaking his head and smiling. He drank it in. 'God, you're magnificent.' It was the first time in a long time he had actually seen the beauty of the night sky. When you're locked in a cell, there is no night sky to see.\n\nTime was suspended. Quietly, Christie urged him to take his time. It was his night. When he was ready, he was told to get into a car. He sat down on the seat but, with his legs shackled and his hands tied behind his back, he was unable to get his feet in. Myuran rocked backwards and forwards but couldn't do it.\n\nNo one moved to help him. Every policeman had his job, and no one had been assigned this duty.\n\nChristie tried to help. At first she was stopped but then the guards allowed her to move in. 'Respect,' she had begged. First she grabbed the chains from the top, but he was too heavy. Then she put her arms underneath, lifting with all her strength. 'When I lift, you rock back,' she told him, heaving his legs in.\n\nChristie didn't want Myuran to get out of the calm space he was in, and she knew he was desperate not to look silly. She wanted him to have his dignity. The end was very near.\n\n# 18.\n\n# THE END\n\nA tiny tear trickled over Christie's hand. She had reached up to Myuran's face, cupping his cheek protectively with her right hand. 'You are a good man,' she said softly. 'You are a courageous man. You are a reformed man.'\n\n'Thank you, thank you,' Myuran mouthed back.\n\nHis tear ran delicately down the outside of her hand, a feeling that instantly embedded itself in her memory. Her three minutes with Myuran were almost up.\n\nThe guard's instructions to Christie had been clear: 'You talk to the prisoner, you calm him for three minutes, and then we will touch you on the shoulder and you must go.' She knew she couldn't stay with Myuran but there was no way she was leaving until she was sure he was ready.\n\nWhen Christie was escorted to Myuran a few minutes earlier, he was already strapped to a wooden cross that was mounted on a platform. His arms were bound to the cross at the elbows; he could move his hands up and down. His feet were tied.\n\nThe night was still and dark. Aside from the small lanterns carried by guards, it was pitch-black. Andrew was strapped to the cross next to Myuran. Raheem was next.\n\nEach of the condemned prisoners wore a white T-shirt. That was mandatory \u2013 so that their chests, and specifically their hearts, were visible in the darkness. The sky was beautiful. Stars twinkled delicately, as if in defiance at the scene below them.\n\nChristie sensed what Myuran needed. 'Let's close your eyes,' she said to him. Her voice was gentle, ministering. A police officer tapped her on the shoulder: the three minutes were up. She would have to leave soon.\n\nShe made every second count. They were all singing now \u2013 Myuran, Christie, and the other prisoners and their advisers.\n\nThe policeman moved forward and took Christie's elbow, urging her to leave.\n\nChristie put her hand on Myuran's heart. 'Myu, remember what we did back in the cells. What did Jesus say to you, and what did you say to him?'\n\n'I trust you, I trust you,' he replied.\n\nThrough his white T-shirt she felt Myuran's heart beating rhythmically. There was no panic or angst, just the pump, pump, pump of the heart of a young man in his prime. There was no fear.\n\n'Myu, I am just going to take a step back,' Christie said, easing backwards, ever so slowly. 'Can you still hear me?'\n\n'Yes,' Myuran called.\n\n'I am going to take a few more steps back but I am still here,' she continued. Singing pierced the air. 'I am still here,' Christie called out. 'I'm going to the side but I will still be here.'\n\n'I'm great, I'm great,' Myuran called back to her.\n\nWhen Christie had first been escorted to Myuran, and saw him strapped to the wooden cross, she almost gasped. He was big, both in stature and in spirit. And he had the most beautiful smile she had ever seen. He'd always had a beautiful smile, she knew, which lit up his whole face, but now it was more radiant than ever. It's like a bit of heaven touching a bit of hell, she thought. She could barely comprehend it but he seemed at complete peace.\n\nEarlier, as Christie, David and the other spiritual advisers waited solemnly out of sight in the marquee, the silence was pierced by a loud _clunk, clunk, clunk_. None of them immediately registered what it was. Then they realised: it was the sound of the prisoners walking with their legs shackled at the waist by chains.\n\nChristie was startled. In the darkness there was no other sound. No one spoke. She couldn't describe the haunting sound. 'I have no words for it. No words for it,' she wrote later in her journal of the events of that night.\n\nThen Andrew's nasal voice bellowed out. He wasn't much of a singer but that had never stopped him before. 'My saviour, He can move the mountains. My God is mighty to save, He is mighty to save... Forever, author of salvation, He rose and conquered the grave... Jesus conquered the grave.' Soon all the prisoners were singing as they were strapped to the wooden crosses.\n\nThe Christian advisers started singing too. They got stuck on the second part of the verse, but Christie had the song sheet with her. Myuran had been very impressed, back in the cells earlier in the night, that she had remembered these.\n\nAware that there were Muslims among the prisoners, Christie asked the imams who were there to comfort them if they were okay with the singing of Christian songs. They nodded. But, concerned not to upset anyone, Christie asked one of the Indonesian pastors, Ibu Yani, to check with them in Indonesian. 'Yes, yes, yes, please,' they said, motioning for the Christians to go ahead.\n\n'Mighty to Save' ended, and Christie began singing 'Hallelujah'. But it wasn't the original \u2013 it was the version from the movie _Shrek_. Through the darkness, Andrew realised it was the wrong version and got them all back on track. Amazed, Christie pictured Andrew's cheeky face puzzling at her choice of song and guiding them to the version they had decided they would sing. She couldn't believe he was able to do so at that moment.\n\nAs 'Hallelujah' came to an end, there was a lull. Then came the haunting strains of 'Amazing Grace'. It was at this moment that the guards came for Christie, David and the other advisers. They now had three minutes.\n\n'Hello, Big Dave! Hello, Mrs B,' Andrew said as the spiritual advisers were escorted to their prisoners. Christie saw Andrew and Myuran next to each other, almost within touching distance.\n\nMyuran smiled at Christie. 'I just want to say that I am truly sorry that I have asked you to do this,' he said, 'but I am really thankful that you are here and I know that you will speak out,' he said. Now he needed a favour. 'I've been bitten by a mosquito \u2013 can you scratch my feet?' he asked.\n\nChristie moved quickly to scratch his feet \u2013 too quickly. A guard, sensing her sudden movement, and on alert for any trouble or departure from the rules, came up behind her. It was not menacing but officious.\n\nAs she scratched Myuran's foot, he looked directly at the guard. 'I forgive you for what you are going to do. Please, bless Indonesia, please.' He asked Christie to make sure she looked after his mother. She promised him she would. They talked about his family.\n\nBeside them, David ministered to Andrew. The Salvation Army minister had known Andrew since he was a little boy. He was like family.\n\n'Sing up! We can do better than that,' Andrew called as the singing lulled.\n\nTime was precious. 'What did God show you back in the cell?' Christie asked Myuran. 'Get that picture back in your mind again,' she urged him. His face broke into a big smile. Christie felt humbled. Myuran and Andrew led prayers. 'Lord, we pray for Mary Jane. She is here as a woman by herself. Lord, let her not be frightened, and give her peace and protect her family,' Myuran prayed.\n\n'Amen,' Andrew finished.\n\n'Lord, we pray for Rodrigo, that he will have peace and he will be calm,' Andrew prayed. He called to Okwudili, 'Are you okay?' He called out to Mary Jane too, but there was no answer.\n\nMyuran prayed for his killers. 'Father, forgive them because they don't know what they do. God bless Indonesia!'\n\nAs Ibu Yani, the pastor who had been looking after them since their arrival at Besi prison, walked past, having left her prisoner, Myuran shouted to her: 'I believe, Ibu Yani, I believe!' She came to him and anointed his forehead with oil.\n\nAs Christie eased backwards and away from Myuran, behind her the firing squads were preparing. Each of the prisoners had a firing squad of 12. They lay on their stomachs on the ground, their rifles on small tripods. Christie had seen their red laser beams piercing the black night, seeking out their victims' chests. At one stage, she had raised her arm to ensure that Myuran did not see this. Now the laser beams were turning from red to green.\n\nAs Christie passed Andrew, he called out to her. She knew her time on the field that night was up, but the spiritual advisers had been told that if another prisoner called them they could respond. She approached Andrew and put her hand on his heart. 'I love you and I'll see you on the other side,' she said.\n\n'I will be on the other side,' Andrew replied.\n\nRodrigo was five down from the Australians. He was upset, and Father Charlie was trying to calm him. The prisoner kept asking why this was happening, and telling Charlie it was not right. A polite and sensitive soul, he hated being manhandled. 'We made a small mistake once,' he moaned. 'Why is this happening?'\n\n'I am 72 \u2013 it won't be too long and I'll be meeting you up there,' Father Charlie told him. 'You must work in that garden and grow flowers and trees. That's your job.'\n\nThe priest had refused to wear a traditional Indonesian Batik shirt that night, in protest at the executions. He had also eschewed the vestments of a priest. Rodrigo didn't need a sermon; he just wanted to talk, like friends. He knew Rodrigo didn't mind praying, as long it wasn't too holy.\n\nAs the spiritual advisers moved away, the prisoners continued singing. Now they started singing 'Bless the Lord'. They had made a pact that this was the song they would sing as they were executed. They'd sung it many times in the previous days, like a choir rehearsing. Now their voices were passionate and strong.\n\nAs Christie retreated, the song in her ears, she hoped the firing squad's dreadful task would be completed quickly.\n\n# 19.\n\n# EXECUTION\n\n'Bless the Lord, o my soul, o my soul! Worship His holy name! Sing like never before, o my soul! I'll worship Your holy name...'\n\nThe prisoners sang. The spiritual advisers sang. They completed the first verse and chorus and were halfway through the second verse. 'You're rich in love and You're slow to anger. Your name is great and your heart is kind. For all your goodness I will keep on singing\u2014'\n\n_Bang!_\n\nA shocking boom ripped through the air. It was like nothing any of the witnesses had ever heard before. The sound of a hundred high-powered rifles firing simultaneously.\n\nThe shockwaves reverberated up Christie's legs and jolted her backwards. David, on her right, threw his arm out to protect her. They looked at each other, bereft. Nearby, Father Charlie and Ibu Yani also looked shocked. The sound had been deafening. Then, complete silence. They looked at each, stunned, unable to speak or move.\n\nChristie leaned back in her chair, registering what had happened. _That is it. It's over_. Then she bent forward and started praying.\n\nIbu Yani urged them all to pray. 'They could still be alive,' she said.\n\nAn enormous rumble jolted them again. For a brief, awful moment Christie wondered if the bodies had fallen from their crosses. Or was it an earthquake?\n\nAn official told them it was the firing squads leaving \u2013 the sound of 96 men running from the scene. They had to be gone within a minute. Their job was done and they were to witness nothing further. It was for their own psychological wellbeing.\n\nIn fact, the firing squads had been fully vetted, their psychological state assessed. Could they handle this? Were they personally and emotionally able to take the lives of fellow human beings? Those who were not were spared the duty.\n\nChristie and the others said the Lord's Prayer. At the same time, Christie desperately listened for any noises \u2013 any groaning, any moaning, any sounds at all. She prayed that death had come quickly to the victims.\n\nIf the bullets had gone astray and someone had not died immediately, she knew, she and the other advisers would need to witness the unfortunate prisoner being shot in the head with a revolver. This was the law. Earlier that night an official had briefed them on this: 'When they shoot, if one not dead, all must see.' Christie had initially understood that she would only need to witness this horror if Myuran did not die immediately.\n\nNow she was desperate. When an official appeared, she spoke quickly. 'Do we need to see?' she asked.\n\n'No, no need,' he replied.\n\nThe shots to the heart had all been clean. No one was left moaning and dying slowly. No one would have to be shot in the head.\n\nChristie felt a weight lift from her body. She and Myuran had talked about this, and he'd been clear: if it happened, he urged, make sure he was dispatched quickly. 'Don't pray for me for 27 minutes \u2013 just make the call, don't muck around.'\n\nNothing had been off-limits in their preparatory discussions the night before. She had explained to him about anatomy, and what would happen when the bullet pierced his chest and then his pericardial sac. She assured him he wouldn't even know it, it would happen so quickly. But if he did feel something, in the twilight zone between the bullet entering his body and his brain shutting down, she advised him to call upon the Lord.\n\nIbu Yani gathered the spiritual advisers for communion. Christie blessed the body of Christ, Father Charlie blessed the wine, and Ibu Yani read a blessing. Then Father Charlie launched into a thoughtful and poignant homily about grief and the way Indonesians face the grieving process. As he talked, Christie was struck by the powerful and thoughtful words of a man who had spent some 42 years in Indonesia.\n\nFather Charlie explained how, three days after death, then seven days, then 40 days and then 100 days, people in the Javanese culture remember the dead. After this, it is done every year, until the last ceremony, 1000 days after death. The church, he said, followed this system with prayer vigils and celebrations of the Eucharist. It was a strategy to help them process their grief, psychologically necessary for those affected.\n\nThis was not the Catholic priest's first execution. He'd been present in June 2008, when two Nigerian drug traffickers, Samuel Iwuchukwu Okoye and Hansen Antonious Nwaolisa, were executed. He had ministered to them during their time in jail at Nusakambangan. They hadn't died immediately: for up to seven minutes they had moaned in agony, strapped to the crosses. Charlie sang 'Amazing Grace' as the men suffered, the life slowly leaving their bodies.\n\nDescribing that scene brought Father Charlie to tears every time. 'It was torture,' he said, 'simple as that.' So incensed was he by the injustice of the death penalty, and so keen was he to fight it, he even agreed to testify at a Constitutional Court hearing brought in 2008 by the Bali bombers. Their lawyers were arguing that death by firing squad was cruel. Father Charlie had no hesitation in giving his first-hand account of what he saw as wanton, horrifying cruelty; it did not matter that it was a challenge being brought by three men who had murdered more than 200 innocent people in the 2002 Bali bombings. The challenge was ultimately thrown out and they were executed by firing squad in late 2008.\n\nAs Father Charlie finished his homily, silence descended upon the group. Everyone was deep in their own personal reflections, prayers and grief. One by one, the advisers were called out to sign the paperwork of death. Christie went first, then David.\n\nNearby, in a makeshift tent set up near the killing field, the bodies had been removed from the crosses and washed and dressed. Christie needed to use the toilet. As she walked in the darkness, she caught sight of the bodies. There was no mistaking Myuran and Andrew. Only minutes ago they had been alive and singing 'Bless the Lord'; now they were laid out on tables, their ugly deaths exposed.\n\nA wave of sadness overwhelmed her.\n\nAt the hotel, the families waited and prayed. The Sukumarans prayed, read scripture and sang songs \u2013 'Bless the Lord' and 'Amazing Grace'. Tina Bailey and Denise Payne were with them. Everyone was praying for a miracle.\n\nChinthu phoned me, wanting to know if the executions were done yet. He had to tell his parents and sister.\n\nI told him it was over. We knew already.\n\nHe pleaded with me, his voice cracking, wanting more details. There was a rumour that Mary Jane had not been killed. If she was still alive, perhaps Myuran and Andrew were as well?\n\n'No,' I told him. 'They are gone. It's over. I'm sorry.'\n\nThere was nothing else I could say. I felt bereft and incredibly sad.\n\nChinthu hung up and went back to his family. 'It's done,' he said.\n\nBrintha collapsed to the floor. They cried and cried.\n\nOver on the island, the group of advisers waited for hours for the bodies to be cleaned, dressed and placed in the wooden coffins that had been specially built for each victim.\n\nBali-based prosecutor Olopan Nainggolan approached Christie. He was shaken, and wanted her to pray for him. Having been the lead prosecutor in Andrew's trial, Olopan had been required to attend. Earlier that evening, before the executions, he had told Christie he hoped God would forgive him.\n\nChristie took his hand. Olopan, a Christian, closed his eyes. Christie asked God to forgive him. 'Only God can take and give life, and this will change you as a man,' she told him.\n\n'Thank you, thank you,' Olopan said.\n\nLater, Christie was stopped by some policemen. ' _Maaf, maaf_ ,' they told her \u2013 meaning 'sorry, sorry'. 'Please don't hold this against Indonesia,' they begged.\n\nAt last, the spiritual advisers were brought down to the port area, from where the coffins, each in a separate ambulance, were to be transported to the mainland.\n\nSuddenly a rumour swept through the group: 'Mary Jane's not dead!'\n\n_What?_\n\n'A reprieve \u2013 she got a reprieve!'\n\nThe words swirled around in Christie's head. She couldn't work it out. Slowly the pieces fell into place. In the witnesses' tent, the chair reserved for Mary Jane's spiritual adviser had been vacant. On the killing field it had been dark; Christie had not actually seen Mary Jane strapped to her cross. Nor had Mary Jane answered Andrew's and Myuran's calls to her. Christie suddenly realised that Myuran and Andrew had no idea that she hadn't died with them.\n\nMary Jane had been ready, dressed in all white, which she had chosen to wear that evening as a symbol of her innocence. All the prisoners would be wearing white T-shirts at the end but Mary Jane had chosen to wear all white clothes. Before their spiritual advisers arrived that evening, the nine condemned prisoners had prayed together in one cell.\n\nMary Jane's pastor, Romo Kieser from Yogyakarta, urged her to be strong. 'Whatever happens is God's will,' he told her.\n\nAs her fellow prisoners were led past her cell that night, each one urged her to be strong. She prayed one last time with Romo Kieser, who blessed her, before the guards came to take her too. They walked her slowly towards the gate and the security checking area.\n\nA group of officials approached. 'Mary Jane, get back to your room,' a female prosecutor ordered. 'Sleep and take a rest, because tonight you will not be executed.'\n\nMary Jane was speechless. All she could do was hug the prosecutor.\n\nShe had been ready to die. Like the others, she had prepared herself. She had no fear. She told one of her lawyers, Agus Salim, that she had already eaten. She cried and cried in her cell as she heard the shots.\n\nChristie and David were finally driven back to the port, after what seemed like an eternity waiting with their own thoughts. There, they met Julian and Veronica. The two lawyers who had fought so hard had been waiting with Majell Hind in another marquee at the port area. They had heard the shots.\n\nJulian looked bereft. He wanted to know if Andrew and Myuran had been treated decently.\n\n'The boys were magnificent,' Christie told him. 'You would have been so proud of them.'\n\nNext she hugged Veronica. 'I can't believe that this has actually happened,' she cried.\n\nIt was at this marquee that the national representatives were to identify and take possession of the bodies.\n\nPlastic chairs had been adorned with white satin covers. Red bunting was wound around the corner poles, and draped ceremoniously around the marquee roof. Boxes of KFC and water had been brought in. It felt surreal. Waiting by the water \u2013 for people to be killed.\n\nA massive explosion. That's what it sounded like from the tent. Loud. Shocking. Dreadful. Veronica had not contemplated that she would hear the shots, and was left stunned.\n\nMary Jane's two sisters, Darling Veloso and Maritess Veloso-Laurente, had chosen to be at the tent with their lawyers. They howled hysterically, calling out her name, feeling their hearts were being torn from their chests. Their screams pierced the air. They gave voice to everyone's feelings. It was torture. They slumped face-down on the tables.\n\nAlmost immediately, Mary Jane's lawyer, Ismail Muhammad, started hearing rumours that Mary Jane had not been taken to the firing range. But there was nothing official. Finally, at 2 a.m., a prosecutor approached him. 'Congratulations, I think this is a miracle,' he said. 'Mary Jane's execution was cancelled.'\n\nThe two hysterical women were ushered away. Within minutes they were screaming again, this time with joy and elation. Mary Jane was alive and in her cell. She had been spared.\n\nEveryone else, hearing the joy in their voices, guessed the miracle. The family and lawyers emerged, suppressing their delight. Mary Jane was alive but eight others were dead: this was no time for celebrations. Ismail urged them to keep hold of their feelings, in deference to the other families.\n\nMary Jane's other family members and the officials from the Philippine embassy were already on a bus, travelling to Jakarta to claim her body. They could barely believe the news as a series of frantic phone calls were made. The bus pulled over.\n\nAt the St Stephen's Catholic Church, where Father Charlie worked, Father Harold Toledano, a priest from Bandung, was lying in bed. He jumped up when he heard the news. Three hours earlier he had farewelled Mary Jane's parents and children as they boarded their bus for Jakarta. As they left that night, he'd told them never to lose hope \u2013 that miracles could happen. Mary Jane had told her family the same thing as they left the prison earlier that day.\n\n_Maybe Andrew and Myuran were saved too_... In the back of her mind, amid the pain, Veronica couldn't help but wonder. Climbing into the back of the ambulance, she delicately lifted the coffin lid. Myuran lay there, dressed in an ill-fitting tuxedo, his white-gloved hands crossed in front of him. Tenderly, Veronica touched his chest and whispered good-bye. Julian, too, said goodbye. They closed the lid and put an Australian seal on it.\n\nThey did the same in the ambulance bearing Andrew's coffin. He was also dressed in a tuxedo. A surge of anger rose in Veronica when she saw the comical way both had been dressed. Myu wouldn't have wanted to wear that, she thought. Perhaps Andrew would have been amused, such was his quirky nature, but certainly not Myu. They looked like waiters from a 1970s comedy.\n\nThe lawyers were careful not to open the coffins too wide, to ensure that no one took any photos. Majell kept at bay the crowds who were clambering with their mobile phones, trying to sneak a photo of the two Australians.\n\nWhen they reached Cilacap, the ambulances carrying Myuran and Andrew's coffins were driven onto the dock. Myuran's vehicle went first; Christie, Julian and Majell walked ahead of it. Andrew's came next, with David and Veronica leading it. Spotting a KFC packet in the front of one ambulance, Christie asked the driver, out of respect, to get rid of it. She and David had decided earlier they would lead the coffins with a Salvation Army salute, pointing to heaven. It was a solemn and private gesture, recognition of the men they had become.\n\nChristie smiled about the fact that Myuran was in ambulance number one, and Andrew was in number two. There had always been competition between the two. Back at the cells, Andrew had said, 'I'm up first, mate,' but now Myuran was in the lead.\n\nThe drive back to the hotel and the waiting families was silent. Christie, David, Julian, Veronica and Majell sat stunned and wounded.\n\nAt the hotel, Veronica hugged Michael Chan. The tears flowed. Helen was sitting alone. She looked lost, as if she wasn't there. Veronica knelt in front of her and hugged her. Veronica cried and cried, sobbing, broken. She let it all out. She couldn't stop weeping. Helen, too, was broken.\n\nThen Veronica went to Feby, Andrew's wife for just a day but the love of his life. He looked handsome, she told her as they embraced.\n\nChristie and Julian went to the room where the Sukumaran family was waiting. 'Myu was incredible,' she announced. 'He forgave Indonesia. He prayed for those killing him.'\n\nShe embraced Raji, the mother who had lost her beautiful son. When Veronica embraced Chinthu she could barely speak, such was her grief. She shared a group hug with Chinthu, his wife and his sister, Brintha. They were moved to learn that Myuran had gone peacefully and with courage, and that it was quick. There was deep sadness but also an incredible sense of pride.\n\nSoon after the executions, in Jakarta, Todung Mulya Lubis tweeted his despair:\n\nI failed. I lost.\n\nMichael Chan, too, took to Twitter:\n\nI have just lost a Courageous brother to a flawed Indonesian legal system. I miss you already RIP my Little Brother.\n\nThe bodies, in two ambulances, had already left for the 381-kilometre drive to Jakarta, escorted by Australian embassy staff. The Chan and Sukumaran families followed in two buses. Julian and Veronica drove in a separate car. It was 5.55 a.m. as they pulled out of Cilacap, the Central Javanese town now synonymous with death, a place none of them ever wanted to visit again.\n\nIn the Sukumaran bus were eight of Myuran's final paintings. Seven were on seats, carefully packed by Tina Bailey to keep them from being ruined. Myuran's final painting, of the Indonesian flag, was in the bus's luggage compartment. Eight other paintings had been left behind in Cilacap; they were still too wet to be transported.\n\nOn the bus, a Foreign Affairs staffer urged everyone to try to get some rest. Christie felt wounded, like she had been thumped. But there were questions to answer, and messages to pass on. When she felt ready, Raji sat beside Christie. Christie had important things to tell her, things that she would tell no other soul. She had promised Myu.\n\nRaji wanted to know that her beloved eldest son wasn't frightened at the end, and that they had treated him well. The things a mother would want for a dying child. She could not bear the thought of him being afraid and manhandled.\n\nChristie assured her that Myu had died well. She recounted how she felt that Myuran had reached down and put courage inside her. It was as if Myuran and Andrew had given her a gift of bravery and courage and compassion \u2013 and she knew she would carry it with her forever.\n\nChristie described how Myuran had sung so well as death stalked him. There was even a little laugh when she recounted how, early in the night, when she had first gone to his cell, Myuran had told her to make sure Raji knew he was showered and ready.\n\nOther family members talked with Christie during the bus ride, telling stories about Myuran as a little boy.\n\nWhen they stopped at lunchtime for a break, Chinthu asked for everyone's attention. 'I'd like to make an announcement: this is courtesy of Myu,' he said. Myuran had given him his spare money before the end, and Chinthu used it to shout everyone's lunch.\n\n# 20.\n\n# GOODBYE\n\nSome letters are just too hard to read. So it was with the two written on 27 April 2015. The day before they died. Myuran and Andrew knew that by the time I got their letters they would be dead. It was a goodbye from the two young men I had first met a decade earlier, the day after their arrest.\n\nAndrew had long promised he would deliver me an award-winning piece of writing. Like Myuran, he wanted the world to know not just about them, but also about the others dying with them. About the pure senselessness of all their deaths. Both men wanted those left behind to fight against the death penalty. The words of Myuran and Andrew speak for themselves.\n\nDear Cindy,\n\nHow are you? I hope you're going alright. I'm sorry I didn't get the chance to do the portrait of your son that I wanted to do, everything happened so fast. I couldn't really believe it. This prison is a world away from Kerobokan, but I did get to start an art class with one lesson in drawing before all this started again. I can't really remember how many times we prepared to die in the last few months \u2013 I think we got used to it, actually. The thing that is really unbearable is each time watching my mum, brother and sister get torn up, my whole family and friends \u2013 they never get used to it, and each time they tear our families I can see the pain in their eyes, the helplessness for our families. This has got to be one of the cruellest things this president has done. I want to say so much about this president but am afraid of putting the words on paper, but I'm sure you know what I think of him and the AG. It's probably the same as you times infinity.\n\nI've been here for almost two months and got to know Raheem well. I've got to say he is a good man and a strong Christian who knows the Bible inside and out. He's spent 17 years of his life behind bars \u2013 he's no kingpin \u2013 his faith just as strong as Andrew's. He was a worship leader in his previous prison. After 17 years in jail for his crime, I can say he does not deserve this.\n\nI got to meet Mary Jane a few days [ago] and it gutted me. I can't believe how dumb these people are. She's so small, has two children. We've prayed together and talked and joked \u2013 she is like a child. Honestly, she has got the mind of a child \u2013 she's not mature or educated for her age. And she is strong and trying to be happy as she can.\n\nI also met Okwadilie, the other Nigerian, and know he has become a reformed man. He is a worship leader as well in his previous prison and his faith is strong. I know what most Nigerians do in jail but these two guys are not like that. They were couriers and haven't played while inside. The guards know who does what here; as you know, nothing is a secret inside prison walls.\n\nI have had few conversations with the Brazilian man \u2013 there's something not right with him \u2013 it's obvious! There's another old Nigerian man in a wheelchair who has been in jail for a long time. I don't know much about him and wonder if they will shoot him in the wheelchair or stand him up. The other two guys of the nine I won't talk about, so you know what that means. It's weird, again I am a part of nine. I've heard somewhere nine is a special number.\n\nPlease note that this must be one of the dumbest executions in the 21st century. I guess you can see dumb stuff happening in undeveloped places, warzones and third-world countries but happening in Indonesia, a developing country trying for leadership in South-East Asia I honestly don't know how reason and compassion are lost in an [illegible] democracy in the 21st century in Asia. It's weird \u2013 it feels like they are so hyped up and [illegible] enjoy killing foreigners that they stuck an Indonesian in there so they cannot get blamed for only foreigners.\n\nOne thing you learn in prison is about strength and weakness \u2013 and they look so weak, all of them. I feel great pity for them, they so much want to show the world how good and strong they are. In prison terms it reminds me when a young gangster comes inside and joins a gang \u2013 he wants to prove himself. You know in Hotel K there were so many \u2013 he puts his head up and back when he walks, pushes his shoulders up and chest spread wide, his arms as far out as it goes to the side. He's the man, juiced up on as much [illegible] as he can get, shouting around, showing his strength, but over ten years I've seen that the only people they prey on are the weak ones, the small ones, the ones who can't fight back and embarrass them.\n\nI've written so many letters to so many people, more than I've ever written before. I have so much I want to say to you but don't know if I have the time. I was telling Julian that it was weird that they chose Anzac Day to deliver the news \u2013 or is it that they didn't think? I had just finished reading a book, _Gallipoli_... and it really opened my eyes. I know what those guys went through... but wow, the comparisons, leaders, great leaders making ridiculously stupid decisions for dumb reasons, pride, etc., sending people to die without a care in the world. Then I read 'Gallipoli Letter' from Keith Murdoch in 1915,... and say he [illegible] it in the last line you know, 'to be an Australian is the greatest privilege the world has to offer'.\n\nAnd we put up a great fight. We fought to the very end with dignity and honour! We will not die with shame, fear, hate or anger but with our honour, knowing that we regained our redemption and only the kingdom of heaven awaits. I was telling everyone that in the last two months I was cramming hard for my final exam, the most important one of my life. All the previous times I was prepared to die but I hadn't made peace with God. This time I have and it feels different.\n\nI passed on a message to the boys in Kerobokan. I will be waiting for them in heaven but if I'm not there when they arrive that they should wait for me because I'm still kicking JW and AG's ass in hell, putting my ten-year prison experience to good use... then will wait at the gates of hell and will make their time in eternity miserable \u2013 prison humour.\n\nI also want to ask you one last request: that you help fight them for what they do so that they never do this to another person again, and also bring attention to the others \u2013 Matt, Si Yi, Mike, Scott, Renae, Martin, Tan. They shouldn't have to spend the rest of their lives in jail; ten years is already more than enough time. They shouldn't get extra punishment time just because they're Aussies. Please help \u2013 at least that way I can rest easy.\n\nYour friend,\n\nMyu\n\nAndrew wrote:\n\nDear Cindy,\n\nHow are you? I hope you are well. I promised I would write a golden Pulitzer \u2013 I'm a man of my word, so here goes.\n\nMy name is Andrew Chan. Most of you would have heard my name or even feel as though you have known me. For the last four months I have had the privilege to share (some) of my story in your living rooms, offices, workplaces and even in your car. You have heard the story of how I'm a changed man, that my life and Myu's life should be spared. We have been labelled 'The Pastor and the Painter'.\n\nThe support that has been generated through this has absolutely been overwhelming, however since [arriving] here I have come to know seven other lives apart from me and Myu.\n\nMary Jane from the Philippines, age 30, was sentenced to death trying to import heroin from Malaysia to Yogyakarta. Most of us won't know Mary Jane's story as she's a maid from a third-world country that hasn't been bothered to be noticed until now. Her story is remarkable as she was a maid that was abused and raped. Trying to support her family, she went to another country to work as a maid, however [she] was tricked into thinking she landed a job. The man that set her up managed to get away. How he got away is a question authorities in this country should answer.\n\nRodrigo, Brazil. I don't know much of his story, however [he] was caught trafficking cocaine. Though I have only known him for two days I can see that he is mentally unstable, constantly wearing a cap thinking that aliens want to take his brain. His mental state shows he's not trying to pull something off the crazy card table. Take one look and you'll say the same.\n\nOkwadilie, Nigeria. A man fully rehabilitated who loves the nation of Indonesia and has dedicated [himself] to helping other prisoners. A gospel singer and a man that has dedicated himself to serving God.\n\nSteve, aka Raheem. Nigeria (however, his passport, which was fake, says Costa Rica). In 1998 he was caught, sentenced to death in 2000, has served 17 years in prison. In my two months getting to know Steve, he's a man that has truly changed and also wants to be a pastor.\n\nMartin, Ghana (however, once again fake passport and from Nigeria). In a wheelchair and pretty much disabled. How they condemned a man to death after 50 grams \u2013 well more than half of Indonesia should be on death row then.\n\nZainal, Indonesia. Don't exactly know him as he won't speak, however he is a human being, someone's son, brother and father.\n\nSylvester, Nigeria. A man that now has plenty of time to contemplate his previous actions. I could tell you now that he was most likely still dealing inside, but to sentence him to death, I don't know if that really fits the punishment.\n\nSteve the Nigerian wanted to have his real name used, however they refused \u2013 said it would delay the executions.\n\nNow I only wrote points, Cindy, I didn't write properly as I have to write more letters and can't just [spend] all my time on one letter, however this gives you the idea of who is here, who the other guys are.\n\nThe warden here is nowhere to be seen. I was led out in handcuffs for a visit until Myu's mother broke down seeing him in cuffs.\n\nMary Jane is seriously like a little child, talkative to calm her nerves, makes me feel introverted.\n\nThe Old Testament teaches us an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth. In other words, you get what you give and give what you get. A murderer that takes the life of someone else for money or for pure violence is actually considered much better than a drug trafficker, according to the Indonesian president \u2013 he seems to justify his reasons only on statistics that he couldn't even get right in the first place. It seems to me that he has forgotten the difference between a drug trafficker and drug dealer.\n\nWhat most don't know is that, 90% of the time, those who get caught are usually mules and those who use it personally. Very rarely will you ever catch a boss with two kilograms or one kilogram strapped onto them or even swallowed. The ones sentenced to die, we will take a closer look into seeing are they the kingpins that President Jokowi says they are? Has he made the right choice? Let's study the facts ourselves as we put this together.\n\nFilipino maid (Mary Jane) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nBrazilian (Rodrigo) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nNigerian (Odwadili) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nNigerian (Steve, aka Raheem) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nAustralian (Andrew) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nAustralian (Myuran) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nGhana (Martin) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nIndonesian (Zainal) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nNigerian (Sylvester) \u2013 kingpin or mule?\n\nAs you follow the facts yourself, can you identify the mule and the kingpin? Each one has a unique story; most done it on the sense of more money and greed as they were young. Don't we all make some silly choices in life?\n\nJust recently President Jokowi granted clemency for three murderers... the reasons in doing so are his own. It seems as though it's better to give clemency to those who deliberately threaten society and have not proven any source of rehabilitation. How President Jokowi makes these decisions we will never understand, however instead of moving the nation forward he's actually brought back the country. What he has done is actually classed him as a murderer himself, though he might not agree on that, saying he's helping his nation. He has not helped the nation, rather he has helped those drug dealers (bigger ones) get off lightly while those below will always suffer the effects. President Jokowi can only hope that others can show him grace when he's needing it most.\n\nFirst day of countdown 72 hours was allowed to pray in one room together, which was really good. The guard was nice enough to allow it.\n\nMyu rushing painting, painting his most inspired pieces in the last three days.\n\nAbout 20 to 25 guards patrol our area constantly, and our area has been covered up with Perspex, sort of plastic (it has been like that since day one). We have been in solitary confinement for two months almost...\n\nThank you, Cindy. Before I sign off I'll tell you a funny story. I locked a guard in the cell as he was using one of the empty cell toilets. I had just been unlocked briefly for our 30 minutes exercise when I saw him inside. So I locked him inside for about ten or 15 minutes. I told him it wasn't time for him to be let out \u2013 that he must wait.\n\nIt was classic Andrew \u2013 a larrikin to the end. He wrote his own eulogy, which was read at his Sydney funeral. In it he paid heartfelt tribute to his brother, promising not to steal his birth certificate and present as Michael in heaven. Andrew also paid tribute to Feby, the love of his life.\n\nHe concluded: 'My last moments here on Earth I sang out \"Hallelujah\". I ran the good race, fought the fight and came out as a winner in God's eyes.'\n\nHundreds and hundreds of people turned out for the funerals of Andrew and Myuran. Two days before Myuran's funeral, Raji wrote a lengthy letter to President Joko Widodo. She wanted him to know just how much his decision to kill her son and the others had torn the hearts out of so many people.\n\nRaji was grieving deeply, and angry that Jokowi had signed the death warrants without even looking at the personal stories of those he was killing, at their rehabilitation and reformation, at the details of their cases. She told the president that she hoped that his children, grandchildren, nephews and nieces never made a mistake in their lives. And she reminded him that one of the last things Myuran had done on the night of his death was to seek forgiveness for Indonesia and for those killing him.\n\nRaji was not sure, she wrote, that she could ever find forgiveness for the president; the pain in her heart would be there forever.\n\nOne year later, Raji sat down and penned another letter to President Widodo, this time pleading with him not to proceed with the next planned round of executions. It was July 2016 and Indonesia had announced it would execute 16 death row prisoners \u2013 the first executions since Myuran and Andrew and six others in April 2015. Raji was struck again by the same feelings of helplessness and despair she had felt one year ago when she was forced to say goodbye to Myuran.\n\nYou are the only person who has the power to prevent another execution. I can't believe you would want to see mothers, fathers, sisters, brothers, children and grandparents grieving for their loved ones. Please don't let these families go through what we have gone through... I pray you find the courage to show mercy, as one day you will no longer have the power and will be looking back at your choices and your mistakes and the decisions you have taken.\n\nRaji's plea fell on deaf ears. On 29 July 2016 four men \u2013 an Indonesian, two Nigerians and a man from Senegal \u2013 were executed amid torrential rain. For reasons that remain unexplained, ten others who were to have been executed that night \u2013 they had said their goodbyes to their families \u2013 were spared.\n\nAndrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran, the Pastor and the Painter, died shortly after 12.30 a.m. on 29 April 2015 in Cilacap, Indonesia, singing praises to their last breaths. But before they took those last breaths, they forgave those who ordered their deaths and those who fired the shots. They had made their families proud. They were rehabilitated. They were reformed. They had redeemed themselves, and had saved and transformed the lives of countless others along the way. They did not deserve those bullets to the heart.\n\nTheir deaths are a powerful portrait of why the death penalty is wrong and can never be justified under any circumstance. They knew it, their families knew it, their lawyers knew it. It was wrong. So very wrong. And for it to be carried out in a country with such a questionable justice system, so lacking in transparency and where justice is for sale to the highest bidder, makes it even worse, if that is possible.\n\nAndrew and Myuran should not have been executed and I hope that by telling their story we will be one step closer to the abolition of the death penalty. Theirs is a cautionary tale and a poignant reminder of what we all lose when we ignore the power of mercy.\n\n# AMNESTY AND REPRIEVE\n\n**Ifyou are opposed to the death penalty you can help make a difference.**\n\nFor 40 years, **Amnesty International** has been working to end executions. When they began this work in 1977 only 16 countries had totally abolished the death penalty. Today, that number has risen to 104 \u2013 more than half the world's countries. **Contact Amnesty viawww.amnesty.org.au**\n\n**Reprieve Australia** is also working hard to see a world without the death penalty. Reprieve work with volunteers, interns and their board to develop legal and policy solutions that will help save lives. **Contact Reprieve Australia viawww.reprieve.org.au**\n\n# ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS\n\nThis book spans a decade in the lives of Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran. It covers a myriad emotions, happy and sad times, hope and anguish. It could not have been written without the generous assistance of a large group of dedicated people who loved Andrew and Myuran and fought so hard to save them.\n\nTo everyone who talked with me over the years, I cannot thank you enough.\n\nTo Andrew and Myuran, the Pastor and the Painter, thank you for trusting me with your story. We must all fight to stop the death penalty.\n\nThank you, from the bottom of my heart, to the Sukumaran and Chan families, for trusting me and allowing me into your lives at such a devastating time. Your sons will not be forgotten.\n\nHeartfelt thanks to the legal team \u2013 Julian McMahon and Veronica Haccou in particular, who treated this reporter with the utmost respect for so many years. Your professionalism, your humanity, your generosity and your kindness are extraordinary. Thank you for sharing the story and for looking after me.\n\nTo Christie Buckingham, I cannot thank you enough for sharing such intimate details of the story. Reliving the events of that awful execution evening came at a personal cost to you. I know it was not easy. You are an inspirational woman.\n\nTo Lizzie Love and Tina Bailey and to the fellow prisoners, many of whom are not named, thank you for your insights and your kindness.\n\nTo my own wonderful family, my husband, Chris, and son, Tom, who supported me, cared for me and helped me throughout one of the most difficult stories I have ever covered.\n\nThank you to my second family in Bali. Photographer Lukman Bintoro, you were there with me on the day Andrew and Myuran were arrested in 2005, and you were there on the night they died. You are not just a colleague but a dear friend. Komang Erviani, the best fixer any reporter could ever work with, you were by my side for the last years of the story and in Cilacap at the end. Your wisdom and professionalism are unmatched, as is your loyalty. I am proud to call you my colleague.\n\nTo my journalist colleagues, with whom I spent many years covering this story and who all comforted and supported me at some stage on this journey \u2013 Mark Burrows, Tom Allard, Paul Toohey, Michael Bachelard, Jewel Topsfield, Kelvin Healey, Adam Taylor and so many others \u2013 thank you. To my colleagues and editors at News Corporation, thank you for believing in the story.\n\nLast but not least, thanks to the amazing team at Hachette Australia, who nursed and believed in this book long before I sat down at the computer to finally write it. To Vanessa Radnidge, thanks does not even begin to express how grateful I am to you for encouraging me, over such a long period of time, to tell the story. Thanks for your support, encouragement, compassion, patience and for being such a thoroughly lovely human being. Without you, this book would never have been written. You are amazing.\n\nTo the editors, Julian Welch and Tom Bailey-Smith, I can't thank you enough for your wisdom and sage advice. You saved me, massaged the manuscript and made it so much better. And thanks to everyone at Hachette for believing in the value of telling this story.\n\n# INDEX\n\nAbadhi, Wayan Yasa 229\u201330\n\nAbbott, Rupert 109\u201310, 133\n\nAbbott, Tony 78, 103, 133, 190\n\naid to Indonesia comments 190\n\nABC Triple J _Hack_ program 132\u20133\n\nAbidin, Zainal 206, 215, 236, 237, 239\n\nAgus, Lukman 41\u20132, 44\n\nAllard, Tom xiv\n\nAmnesty International 109\n\nAna, Wayan 206\n\nAnam, Choirul 107\n\nAnderson, Martin 207, 214\u201315, 243\n\nAndriani, Rani (alias Melisa Aprilia) 102, 105, 106\n\nArchibald Prize 90, 167\n\nArif, Matius 31, 32\u20133, 57\u20138, 59, 61\u20132, 240\n\nArms of Love foundation 63\u20134\n\nArthanya, Gede 237\u20138\n\nAsshiddiqie, Chief Judge Jimly 38\u20139\n\nAtaloui, Sabine 232\n\nAtaloui, Serge 232\u20133\n\nAustralian Federal Police (AFP) 4\u20135\n\nknowledge of Bali Nine 4\u20136\n\nletters to Bali police 4, 5\u20136, 14, 81\n\nAustralian government\n\nefforts for clemency 131\u20134, 190\n\nprisoner swap offer 191\u20133\n\nAustralian public support xv, 116\u201317, 122, 133\n\nBachelard, Michael 135\n\nBailey, Tina 60, 197, 226, 252, 279, 287\n\nBali ix\u2013x\n\nAdi Dharma Hotel 7\n\nAneka Beach Hotel 6\n\nAustralian Consul-General's office 3\n\nHard Rock Hotel 6\u20137, 18\n\nKudeta restaurant 152\n\nKuta 6, 7, 8, 165\n\nMelasti Beach Bungalows 8, 13\n\nPlamboyan hotel 7\n\npolice surveillance of Bali Nine 6\u20138, 14\n\nWhite Rose Hotel 6\n\nBali bombers 29, 126, 164\u20135, 205, 278\n\nBali International Women's Association 33\n\nBali Nine xii, 4\u20138, 86\u20137, 161\u20132, 166, 199\n\nappeals against verdicts 27\u20138, 36\u20139\n\narrest 2\u20134, 9\n\nAustralian public opinion 96\n\ninterception of 8\u20139\n\njudges and corruption allegations 135\u20136, 227\u201330, 238\n\nKerobokan prison _see_ Kerobokan prison\n\nlegal teams 13\u201314\n\npolice surveillance 6\u20138\n\nrelationships 15, 18, 29, 162, 176\u20137\n\nsentences 21\u20132\n\nseparation of 12\n\ntrials 14\u201318\n\nBali police 6\n\ncase investigation and preparation 12\u201313\n\nBannakorn, Cherry Likit 7\n\nBesi prison 172\u20133, 181\u2013233\n\nart classes 200\n\nhandcuffs 213\n\nvisits 184, 196\u20137, 209, 213\u201317, 225\u20136, 234\u20135, 237, 240\u20135\n\nBishop, Julie 131\u20134, 187, 191, 192\n\nBlackwell, Joel 37\u20138\n\nBoyolali 102, 108\n\nBranson, Sir Richard 189\n\nBRIMOB 153\u20134, 169\n\nBuckingham, Christie 63, 65, 122, 220, 226, 240, 251\u201367, 268\u201372, 275\u201380, 282, 285\u20138\n\nBuckingham, Rob 63, 253, 261\n\nBurrows, Father Charlie 108\u20139, 233, 254, 255, 264\u20135, 273\u20134, 275, 277\u20139\n\nCardoso, Fernando Henrique 189\n\nChan, Andrew ix\u2013xiii, 13, 29\u201330, 236, 237\n\nanti-drugs work 57\u20139, 87\u20139\n\nappeals\/judicial reviews 27\u20138, 36\u20139, 51\u20136, 123\u20134\n\nBali Nine involvement 5\u201310\n\nBesi prison 172\u20133, 181\u2013233\n\nchildhood 25\n\nChristian faith 24, 43, 57\u20139, 63\u20134, 73, 74, 84\u20135, 112, 148, 218, 238\n\nChristian ministry xi, 42\u20133, 89\u201390, 143, 160\u20131\n\nchurch cell groups 59\n\nclemency pleas 66\u20137, 92\u20133, 101, 111, 187\u20138\n\ncooking classes 59, 113\u201314\n\ncounselling by 74, 80, 84, 143\n\ndeath penalty 20\u20132, 102, 104\n\nduck breeding 65\n\nexecution ix\u2013x, xiii\u2013xv, 269, 270\u20133, 275\u20139\n\nexecution arrangements 230\u20131\n\nexecution warrant 203\u20134, 207\u20138\n\nfuneral 298\n\n'godfather' 47\n\nguilt, admission of 51\u20132, 124\n\nhate mail 82\n\nhumour\/personality 25, 114, 115, 117, 143, 148, 152\u20133, 154, 173\u20134, 177\u20138\n\ninnocence plea 14, 18\u201320, 50, 51, 127\n\ninstructions for post-execution 144, 186\n\nlast day 237\u201340, 243\u20135\n\nlegal teams 13, 30, 35\u20139, 111\u201312, 129, 162\u20133, 187, 226\u201330\n\nletter to author 293\u20138\n\nmarriage 149, 218, 220\u20136, 230, 231\n\nmood 80, 110, 112\u201315, 121, 134\u20135, 137, 148, 177\u20138, 237\n\nordainment 122\n\npolice detention 12\n\npreparation for death 256, 265, 266\n\nprisoner support for 156\u201360\n\nreform and rehabilitation xi, 39\u201340, 42\u20133, 51\u20133, 61\u20133, 73\u20135, 81\u20133, 112, 156\u20138, 252\n\nrefusal to testify 15, 16\n\nresponsibility, taking 80\u20131\n\nrugby league and 137\u20139\n\nSabu plans 222\u20135\n\ntheology study 42, 52, 63, 74\n\ntransfer to Nusakambangan 145\u20136, 153\u20134, 168\u201372, 174, 178\u20139\n\ntrial 14, 15, 17, 20\n\nverandah conversations 117\n\nwriting 115, 137\u20139, 177\u20138, 289, 293\u20138\n\nChan, Helen 4, 11, 24\u20135, 72, 114, 122, 124\u20135, 128\u20139, 139\u201340, 151, 210, 220, 243, 244, 245, 247, 285\n\nconversion to Christianity 24\n\nChan, Ken 4, 11, 24\u20135, 72, 114, 125, 139\u201340, 220, 243, 244\n\nconversion to Christianity 24\n\nChan, Michael 4, 11, 21, 67, 125, 128, 185, 210, 218, 219, 220, 231\u20132, 243, 244, 246\u20138, 285, 286, 298\n\nclemency appeal letter 72\u20135\n\nChen, Si Yi 5, 6, 8\u201310, 15, 22, 28, 39, 86\u20137, 166, 179\n\nCilacap x, xiii, 108, 169, 170, 176, 185, 197, 207, 211, 230, 246, 285\n\nConstitutional Court 36\u20137, 106, 123, 195, 208, 226\u20137\n\nCriminal Code revision 39, 55\n\ndeath penalty decision 38\u20139\n\nCorby, Schapelle x, 9, 13, 29, 66, 96, 175\u20136, 192\n\nCrosslink Christian Network 122\n\nCzugaj, Michael 5\u201310, 19, 22, 28, 166\n\nDavis, Mark 228\n\n_Dear Me: The Dangers of Drugs_ 87\n\ndeath penalty xi, xv, 30, 55\u20136\n\nappeal to Indonesian Constitutional Court 36\u20139\n\nAustralian public attitudes 132\n\nDenis, Namaona 102, 106\u20137\n\nDenpasar District Court 22, 55\u20136, 93, 112, 228\n\njudicial review 112, 116, 123\n\nDenpasar High Court 27\u20138\n\nappeals and sentences 28\n\nDenpasar police headquarters x, 9\n\nDetik.com 108\n\nDreifuss, Ruth 189\n\nDwije, Gail 63\n\nEast Timor 32\n\nElliott, Sandy 43\u20136\n\nEnemuo, Daniel 102\n\nErviani, Komang xiv, 210\n\nFarrow, Mary 76\n\nFranola, Meirika (alias Ola) ' _Ratu Narkoba_ ' 105\n\nFranola, Tajudin 105\n\nGiuily, Francois Jacques 156\n\nGlobal Commission on Drug Policy 189\n\nGulerte, Rodrigo 206, 208, 233, 254, 255, 264\u20135, 273\u20134\n\nHaccou, Veronica xiii\u2013xiv, 37, 111, 117, 118, 121, 144, 148, 150, 171, 172\u20133, 174\u20135, 179, 187, 202\u20133, 207, 208, 215, 220, 226, 238, 241, 243, 244, 254, 260, 282\u20136\n\nHanh, Tran Thi Bich 102, 108\n\nHarahap, Yahya 54\u20135\n\nHerawati, Kristiani (Ibu Ani) 77\n\nHerewila, Febyanti 149\u201350, 171, 178, 185, 204, 210, 218, 220\u20131, 225, 230, 231, 239, 240, 244, 265, 295, 298\n\nheroin trafficking x, 81\u20132\n\nBali Nine 3\u20139\n\nHind, Majell 124, 135, 172, 187, 202, 203, 208, 220, 254, 284, 285\n\nHomebush Boys High School 10, 25\n\nIndonesia\n\n#CoinForAustralia 190\n\nAustralian intelligence phone tapping 77\u20138\n\ncitizens facing death penalty abroad 133\u20134\n\ndrug offence sentencing anomalies 105\u20138\n\ndrugs statistics 164\n\nexecutions January 2015 102, 108\u201310\n\nexecutions 2016 299\u2013300\n\njustice system 86\u20137, 184\n\nWidodo's stance on drugs 92, 190\u20131\n\nIndonesian Correctional Services 159\n\nIndonesian National Human Rights Commission (Komnas HAM) 107, 129, 240\n\nIntan, Angela 182\u20133, 212\u201313, 245\n\nInternational Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (ICCPR) 36, 55\u20136\n\nInterpol Jakarta 4\n\nIskan, Suyoto 157\u20138\n\nIsmunandar 191\n\n_John Q._ 140\n\nJohns, Scott 38\n\nJohnson, Peter 13\n\nJudicial Commission 227\u201330, 238\u20139\n\nJunior, Manuel 157\n\nKerobokan prison 12, 13, 21, 29, 35\u20136, 166\n\nart exhibition cancellation 193\n\ncomputer course 40\u20131\n\n'death tower' 29\n\ndrugs 31, 32\u20133, 48\u20139\n\nduck breeding 65\n\nfemale prisoners 60\n\ngangs 58, 61\u20133, 84\n\nHermanus (prison guard) 85\n\nJason (prisoner) 59\n\nmedical services 97\u20138\n\nMoshen (prisoner) 61\n\nriots 61\u20133\n\nSiswanto (governor) 40\u20132, 44, 53\u20134\n\nSudjonggo (governor) 152\u20133\n\nKesser, Romo 281\n\n_Kompas_ 107\u20138\n\nKotzamichalis, Aki and Samantha 152\n\nLasry, Lex 30, 38, 207\n\nLawrence, Renae 4, 5\u201310, 14, 15\u201317, 19, 22, 28, 29, 33\u20134, 166, 176\n\nLewis, C. S. 114\n\n_The Four Loves_ 114\u201315\n\nLopez, Maria Cecilia 97\u20139, 126, 151\u20132\n\nLove, Lizzie 33\u20134, 44, 46\u20137, 62\u20133, 91, 98\u20139, 154\u20135\n\nLubis, Todung Mulya 30, 53, 103, 112, 220, 227, 228\u201330, 235, 236, 237, 286\n\nLucado, Max 148\n\n_Traveling Light_ 148\n\nMcKenzie, Nick 135\n\nMcMahon, Julian xiii\u2013xiv, 30, 35, 37\u20138, 39, 53, 76, 84, 94, 111\u201313, 117, 119\u201321, 172\u20133, 174, 202\u20135, 207, 215, 220, 238\u20139, 240, 245, 254, 260, 282, 284, 285\u20136\n\nMandagi, Kristito 191\u20132\n\nMarhawan, Deni Setia 105\n\nMarsudi, Retno 191, 192\u20133\n\nMedway, Brian 122\n\nMigrant Care 134\n\nMigrante International 211\n\nMirdjaja, Matius Arif 31\u20133, 57\u20139, 62, 63\n\nMoreira, Marco Archer Cardoso 102, 108\u20139\n\nMorrissey, Peter 38\n\nMuhammad, Ismail 283\n\nMuxfeldt, Angelita 233\n\nNainggolan, Olopan 151, 203, 280\n\nNational Narcotics Agency (BNN) 164\n\nNational Narcotics Board of Indonesia 36\n\nNational Union of People's Lawyers \u2013 Philippines 211\n\nNguyen, Tan Duc Thanh 5\u201310, 15, 22, 28, 39, 166\n\nNguyen, Van 30\n\nNicholas, Nopi 158\n\nNorman, Matthew 5\u201310, 15, 22, 28, 39, 41, 86\u20137, 166\n\nNusakambangan prison island 29, 101, 102, 106\u20137, 108, 126, 135, 141\u20133, 145 _see also_ Besi prison\n\nNwaolisa, Hansen Antonious 278\n\nNwaolise, Sylvester 206, 236, 237, 243\n\nO'Connell, Michael 38\n\nOkoye, Samuel Iwuchukwu 278\n\nOlalia, Edre 211, 212\n\nOyatanze, Okwudili 207, 236, 237, 273\n\nPangarep, Kaesang 210\n\nPastika, I Made Mangku 4\n\nPayne, Denise 61, 197, 252, 279\n\nPenrith Panthers 137\u20139\n\nPlibersek, Tanya 134\n\nPonto, Harry 107\u20138\n\nPrasetyo, Attorney-General Muhammad 102, 104, 108, 123, 132, 193, 221, 227, 250, 264\n\nPurdijatno, Admiral Tedjo Edhy 191\n\nQuilty, Ben 76\u20137, 86, 90, 115, 116, 134, 167, 260\n\nRichardo, Rico 156\u20137\n\nRidington, Miranda 221, 247\n\nRifan, Muhammad 13, 127\u20138, 227\u201330, 238, 239\n\nRoy Morgan Research poll 132\u20133\n\nRush, Scott 5\u201310, 19, 22, 28, 36, 39, 166\n\nRyacudu, Ryamizard 193\n\nSalami, Raheem Agbaje (Jamiu Owolabi Abashin) 173, 182\u20137, 197, 199, 212\u201313, 215, 236, 237, 245, 265, 269\n\nSalim, Agus 282\n\nSamiarso, Momock Bambang 151, 174\n\nSandiford, Lindsay 80\n\nSBS _Dateline_ 228\n\nSergio, Maria Kristina 212\n\nSianturi, Edith Yunita 106\n\nSiregar, Saud 191\n\nSoei, Ang Kiem 96, 102, 107\u20138\n\nSoper, David 25, 204, 221, 240, 247, 251, 254, 256, 265, 272, 279, 282\n\nSoper, Shelley 25, 221\n\nSri Lanka 26\n\nState Administrative Court, Jakarta 162\u20133, 187\u20138, 195\n\nStephens, Martin 5\u201310, 17\u201318, 19, 22, 28, 166\n\nStoicescu, Claudia 164\n\nStrain, Peter 38\n\nSubianto, Prabowo 93\n\nSudiasa, Wayan 158\n\nSuharto, President 31\n\nSuika, Putu 136\n\nSukhoi fighter jets 145\u20136, 169\n\nSukumaran, Brintha xiv, 1\u20133, 21, 34, 39\u201340, 75, 94, 100, 125\u20136, 235, 241, 243, 245, 248\u20139, 258, 280, 286\n\nSukumaran, Chinthu xv, 3, 21, 23, 64, 67, 75, 94, 100, 128, 146, 151, 188, 193, 195\u20136, 209\u201310, 218, 232, 234\u20135, 241\u20132, 244, 246\u20137, 248\u201350, 279\u201380, 286, 288\n\nclemency appeal letter 75\u20136\n\nSukumaran, Myuran ix\u2013xiii, 27\n\nappeals\/judicial reviews 27\u20138, 36\u20139, 50\u20136, 123\u20134\n\narrest 3\n\nart classes 44\u20137, 60, 117\n\nart workshop as sanctuary 85\n\nAssociate Degree in Fine Arts 154\n\nBali Nine involvement 1\u20132, 5, 6\u201311\n\nBesi prison 172\u20133, 181\u2013233\n\nchildhood 26\n\nChristian faith 256\u201364\n\nclemency pleas 66\u201372, 75\u20136, 92\u20134, 101, 187\u20138\n\ndeath penalty 20\u20133\n\ndepression 29, 45, 79, 86\n\ndrug trade involvement 27\n\nexecution ix\u2013x, xiii\u2013xv, 268\u201379\n\nexecution arrangements 230\u20131\n\nexecution warrant 201\u20133, 207\u20138\n\nfirst artwork 45\u20136\n\nfund raising for Lopez 98\u20139, 151\u20132\n\nfuneral 298\n\nguilt, admission of 50\u20131\n\nhate mail 82\n\nhumour 194\u20135\n\nIndonesian language skills 48\n\ninstructions for post-execution 144, 186, 217\n\n'kingpin' 47\n\nlast day 234\u201350\n\nlegal teams 13, 30, 35\u201340, 111\u201312, 129, 162\u20133, 187, 226\u201330\n\nletters to author 94\u20136, 289\u201393\n\nmood and emotions 79\u201380, 93\u20136, 101, 102\u20135, 110, 112\u201313, 115, 121\u20132, 126, 134\u20137, 141\u20132, 146\u20137, 154\u20135, 165, 175\u20136, 197\u20139\n\npainting xi, 41\u20132, 43\u20137, 76\u20137, 90\u20131, 97\u20139, 115\u201316, 119\u201320, 126\u20137, 141, 185, 195\u20136, 206, 209, 233, 235\u20137, 260, 287\n\npolice detention 12\n\nportrait of Widodo 119\u201320, 193, 252\n\npreparation for death 256\u201367\n\nprisoner support for 157\u201360\n\nreform and rehabilitation 39\u201342, 61\u20133, 69\u201371, 75\u20136, 83\u20134, 94\u20135, 124, 129\u201330, 158, 299, 300\n\nrefusal to testify 14\u201315, 16, 20\n\nromantic attachments 176\n\ntrial 14\u201315, 20\n\nT-shirt printing plan 47\u20138, 64\n\ntransfer to Nusakambangan 145\u20136, 153\u20134, 168\u201372, 174, 178\u20139\n\nverandah conversations 117\n\nyoga 61\n\nSukumaran, Raji 1\u20133, 10\u201311, 21, 23\u20134, 26, 46, 64, 67\u20138, 94, 99\u2013100, 124\u20135, 128\u20139, 141, 145, 150\u20131, 185, 200, 209, 213, 232\u20133, 235, 241\u20134, 249, 251, 256, 286, 287, 298\u20139\n\nclemency appeal letter 67\u201372\n\nSukumaran, Sam 26, 151, 177, 235, 241, 249\n\nSupreme Court of Indonesia 28, 107, 163, 206, 238\n\nBali Nine appeals 28, 30\n\njudicial review 28, 39, 50\u20136, 123\n\nSydney concert 'Music for Mercy' 116\u201317, 122\n\nTangerang District Court 105\n\n_Time_ 30\n\nTittensor, Megan 38\n\nToledano, Father Harold 284\n\nTrood, Tony 38\n\nUnited Nations Human Rights Commission 109\n\nUnited Nations Human Rights Council 160\n\nUniversity of Indonesia's Centre for Health Research 164\n\nVeloso, Darling 283\n\nVeloso, Mark Daniel 210\n\nVeloso, Mark Darren 210\n\nVeloso, Mary Jane Fiesta xiv\u2013xv, 206, 210\u201312, 214, 235, 236, 237, 242\u20133, 266, 272, 279, 281\u20134\n\nVeloso-Laurente, Maritess 283\n\nVrielink, Nico 47\n\nWard, Christopher 38\n\nWashington, Denzel 140\n\nWenham, David 116\u201317\n\nWidodo, Joko (Jokowi) 78, 92\u20133, 99, 132, 239, 249\n\nclemency pleas 92\u20133, 96\u20137, 101, 111, 113, 120\u20131, 187\n\ndrugs emergency speech 113, 164\n\nfamilies' plea to 128\u20139\n\nletters to 123\u20134, 129\u201330, 156\u20138, 189, 298\u20139\n\n'Midline Letter' 129\u201330\n\nportrait by Sukumaran 119\u201320\n\nWilkins, Alan 220, 244, 247\u20138\n\nWilkins, Ann 220, 247\n\nWilson, Alex 38\n\nWitt, Joanna 86\n\nYamanie, Achmad 135\u20136\n\nYani, Ibu 185, 199, 271, 273, 275, 276, 277\n\nYogyakarta 149, 196, 197, 205, 207, 209\n\nYudhoyono, President Susilo Bambang 56, 66, 105\n\nclemency appeal to 66\u201376, 78, 92\n\nphone tapping 77\u20138\n\nYuliawan, Ade 206\n\nAn unforgettable story of love,  \nhope and a fight for freedom.\n\nAt seventeen, Mojgan Shamsalipoor wanted to be safe from abuse, go to school and eventually marry for love. In Iran, she was denied all of this.\n\nMilad Jafari was a shy teenage boy who found his voice as a musician. But the music he loved was illegal in his country. Milad's father \u2013 a key-maker, builder and shopkeeper \u2013 wanted his family to live free from the fear of arrest, imprisonment or execution. To do that, they all had to flee Iran.\n\nMojgan and Milad met in Australia. But in the months between their separate sea voyages, the Australian government changed the way asylum seekers were treated. Though Milad is recognised as a refugee and will soon become a proud Australian citizen, Mojgan has been told she cannot stay here, even though the threat of imprisonment and further abuse, or worse, means she can't return to Iran. This is their story.\n\n_Under the Same Sky_ is a powerful insight into the  \nhuman face of asylum seekers and the way history  \nhas shaped the lives of these two young people.\n\nIt also shows the compassion found in our suburbs.  \nFor Mojgan and Milad, love keeps their hopes alive.\n\nThis is the book on immigration detention  \nall Australians need to read.\n\nTwenty-four-year-old Adele Dumont lived in two worlds, her hometown Sydney and the Curtin detention centre near Derby in Western Australia. As an English teacher, she did not think the fly-in fly-out lifestyle was for her, but what kept her going back were her students: men from many lands who had sacrificed all they knew for a chance to live in Australia; men who were looking for an opportunity for a better life.\n\nTracing Adele's journey from volunteering on Christmas Island in 2010 through to her work in Western Australia, _No Man is an Island_ is an insightful exploration of an important issue. Spending time inside this world opened her eyes \u2013 and it will open yours too.\n\nA vividly told story of unexpected warmth, _No Man is an Island_ is a unique, personal account that takes a humanitarian stance on immigration detention.\n\n'essential reading'\n\n_Sydney Morning Herald_\n\n'evocative but never obtrusive... powerful'\n\n_Saturday Paper_\n\n'a rare insight'\n\n_Adelaide Advertiser_\n\nCindy Wockner is the National Investigations Editor for News Corporation Australia. Her articles appear in newspapers across Australia, including the _Courier-Mail_ , the _Daily Telegraph, Herald-Sun, Adelaide Advertiser_ and _NT News_. Before writing _The Pastor and the Painter_ , Cindy co-authored two books, _Bali 9: The Untold Story_ and _Evil in the Suburbs_. Cindy reported on Indonesia for over a decade, including seven years as a foreign correspondent, and she has extensively covered the Bali Nine case and the executions of Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran.\n\n  @CindyWockner\n\nIf you would like to find out more about Hachette Australia, our authors, upcoming events and new releases you can visit our website or our social media channels:\n\nhachette.com.au\n\n  HachetteAustralia\n\n  HachetteAus\n\n  HachetteAus\n\n  HachetteAus\n\nAndrew Chan was born in Sydney in January 1984. He was a cute kid, likeable and always willing to help anyone. This photo captures how his mother described him: 'a bit of a larrikin, with a cheeky smile'.\n\nMyuran Sukumaran was born in London in 1981 and moved to Australia with his family as a toddler. Like so many Australian children, he loved Lego when he was young.\n\nThe defiance and anger that Andrew and Myuran displayed in 2005 in Denpasar District Court was a world away from the good men they would become.\n\nBy 2010, Andrew and Myuran had changed and were focused on making a difference in the best ways they could. They introduced computer and English classes to other prisoners, organised art classes and created an art space in Kerobokan. I interviewed them and visited many times and saw their enthusiasm for making a change \u2013 Myuran was building a screen-printing business to raise funds for art supplies and Andrew was studying theology.\n\nAndrew's and Myuran's cells in the 'death tower', the tower block in Kerobokan where the Bali Nine lived and, before them, the Bali bombers.\n\nAndrew and Myuran with their solicitor Veronica Haccou from Victoria. Veronica became an indispensable member of the legal team, and Myuran and Andrew respected her greatly and trusted her implicitly.\n\nAndrew and Myuran at Kerobokan with their legal team. Julian McMahon is second from left at the back next to Michael Chan ( _second from right_ ) with Chinthu Sukumaran _(far right_ ).\n\nThe military might called in around Andrew's and Myuran's transfer from Bali to Nusakambangan was startling. Fighter jets flew over Kerobokan prison and armed police and soldiers closed down the streets. As they were led out of Kerobokan, the guards lined up to say goodbye. Andrew and Myuran went calmly and with grace as they were loaded into a Barracuda armoured personnel carrier. They were dignified. Some guards cried. The contrast between the military display that was on hand for their transfer and the two men's actions that morning could not have been starker.\n\nJust looking at this photo overwhelms me. The utter despair the families were feeling is etched on Brintha Sukumaran's face as she fights her way through the media pack (which I was in) to go and see her brother. The last days were excruciating for all.\n\nSomehow, amongst the anguish there was a moment of bittersweet joy when Andrew married fellow pastor Febyanti Herewila in front of family and friends. The happiness of that day was not to last long.\n\nMyuran sent me photos of some of his last paintings, they were of the cross onto which he would be tied. He sent me the half-finished one first and then the next morning this completed version. His talent is evident in all versions and the haunting image reminds us all of the two men who were executed that day.\n\n# Copyright\n\nLyrics from '10,000 Reasons (Bless the Lord)', written by Jonas Myrin and Matt Redman copyright \u00a9 2011 Thankyou Music\/Said And Done Music\/Kingswaysongs and Jonas Myrin\/Capitol CMG Paragon (BMI) (Admin. SHOUT! Music Publishing [AUS\/NZ]) & Omega Songs (BMI), reproduced with permission from Crossroad Publishing and SHOUT! Music Publishing.\n\nLyrics from 'Mighty to Save', written by Ben Fielding and Reuben Morgan copyright \u00a9 2006 Hillsong Music Publishing, reproduced with permission from Hillsong Music Publishing Australia.\n\nPublished in Australia and New Zealand in 2018\n\nby Hachette Australia\n\n(an imprint of Hachette Australia Pty Limited)\n\nLevel 17, 207 Kent Street, Sydney NSW 2000\n\nwww.hachette.com.au\n\nCopyright \u00a9 Cindy Wockner 2018\n\nThis book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or review permitted under the _Copyright Act 1968_ , no part may be stored or reproduced by any process without prior written permission. Enquiries should be made to the publisher.\n\nA CIP catalogue record of this book is available from the National Library of Australia.\n\n978 0 7336 3694 3\n\n978 0 7336 3695 0 (ebook edition)\n\nCover design by Christabella Designs\n\nFront cover photographs courtesy of Newspix\/Lukman S. Bintoro and Associated Press\/Firdia Lisnawati\n\nBack cover photographs courtesy of Newspix\/Lukman S. Bintoro\n\nAuthor photograph courtesy of News Corporation Australia\n\nPicture section photographs: p. 1 courtesy of the Chan family, Sukumaran family and Newspix; pp. 2\u20133 courtesy of author's collection, Lukman S. Bintoro and Newspix; pp. 4\u20135 courtesy of Newspix, author's collection; pp. 6\u20137 courtesy of Newspix, Lukman S. Bintoro, Getty Images and author's collection; p. 8 courtesy of author's collection\n","meta":{"redpajama_set_name":"RedPajamaBook"}}
+{"text":"\n\n## THE OREGON COAST  \nPHOTO ROAD TRIP\n\n## HOW TO EAT, STAY, PLAY AND SHOOT LIKE A PRO\n\n## RICK AND SUSAN SAMMON\n\nAlex Morley photographing at Howling Dog Rock, Bandon _Photograph by Dianne Morley_\n\n## DEDICATION\n\nThis book is dedicated to our good friend\u2014and an amazing photographer\u2014Alex Morley. Had it not been for Alex, this book, and the five Oregon Coast photo workshops that we co-led with Alex, would probably never have happened. Here's the story.\n\nBefore I knew Alex, he was a participant in one of our Bosque del Apache, New Mexico, photo workshops. At our welcome dinner, we were sitting at opposite ends of a long table in a bustling Mexican restaurant. Before our meals arrived, Alex was showing the photographers sitting around him some of his Oregon Coast photographs on his iPhone. He had taken the photographs he was showing over the course of several years with his digital SLR camera.\n\nWhen I glanced down at the other end of the table, a super-colorful photograph (of what turned out to be some sea stars and anemones) grabbed my attention.\n\nI literally jumped up and scooted down toward Alex and asked him about the photographs. He explained that he lived in Oregon and that the photographs had been taken on his beloved Oregon Coast.\n\nA year later, Alex and I were co-leading photo workshops to one of the most photogenic places on the planet.\n\nSo Susan and I give a big thank you and a big hug to our good friend Alex Morley. You and your photographs have made a huge impact on our lives and on the lives of many others. We are honored to call you our friend.\n\nSee more of Alex's photographs on his website: www.alexmorleyphoto.com. Also follow Alex on Facebook: www.facebook.com\/alex.k.morley.\n\nSea stars, Strawberry Hill _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n## CONTENTS\n\nAcknowledgments\n\nPreface: Oregon Coast Trip Tips\n\nForeword by Nick Page\n\nIntroduction: Why Do an Oregon Coast Photo Road Trip?\n\n**PART I. JUMP-START YOUR OREGON COAST PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE**\n\n**Rick's Quick Oregon Coast Photo Tips\u2014For Digital SLRs and Mirrorless Cameras**\n\n**Susan's Photo Tips\u2014For Smartphone Cameras**\n\n**PART II. OREGON COAST ROAD TRIP**\n\n**Cannon Beach\u2014Home Base for the Northern Coast**\n\nCannon Beach and Haystack Rock\n\nEcola State Park\n\nWreck of the _Peter Iredale_\n\nHug Point State Recreation Site\n\nCape Kiwanda\n\nCannon Beach Stay and Eat\n\n**Newport\u2014Home Base for the North-Central Coast**\n\nNewport Harbor\n\nYaquina Bay Bridge\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\nDevil's Punchbowl\n\nSeal Rock State Park\n\nOregon Coast Aquarium\n\nFoulweather Trawl\n\nNewport Stay and Eat\n\n**Florence and Yachats\u2014Home Base for the South-Central Coast**\n\nCape Perpetua Lookout\n\nDevil's Churn\n\nThor's Well and the Spouting Horn\n\nStrawberry Hill\n\nHeceta Head Light, Viewpoint, and Beach\n\nOld Town Florence\n\nFlorence and Yachats Stay and Eat\n\n**Bandon\u2014Home Base for the Southern Coast**\n\nOld Town Bandon\n\nBandon Beach\n\nCoquille River Light\n\nShore Acres State Park\n\nOregon Dunes and Overlook\n\nBandon Stay and Eat\n\nIndex\n\nPhotographer John Van't Land was one of several photographers who contributed outstanding photographs to this book. _Photograph by John Van't Land_\n\n## ACKNOWLEDGMENTS\n\nIn writing this acknowledgments section, we are reminded of the Beatles song \"With a Little Help from My Friends.\" We sure did have a lot of help from our friends in the making of this book.\n\nSeveral of our friends contributed their photographs to help make this book the best it could be. These talented individuals are Alex Morley, Gerry Oar, Gary Potts, Steve Casey, Bob Lloyd, Susan Dimock, John Van't Land, and Sarah Cail.\n\nThe dedicated staff at Countryman Press also gets a big thank you for transforming our digital files and Word documents into a beautifully presented book and e-book. This team includes Michael Tizzano, Ann Treistman, Devon Zahn, Jess Murphy, and Anna Reich. Bill Ruskin, formerly of Countryman Press and W. W. Norton, also gets our thanks for introducing us to our wonderful publisher.\n\nOur thanks also go to all the photographers who participated in our five Oregon Coast photo workshops. You guys helped make the workshops a ton of fun.\n\nRick is a member of the Canon Explorers of Light program. All his photographs in this book were taken with Canon cameras and lenses. Rick's friends at Canon\u2014Rob Altman, Danny Neri, Rudy Winston, and Drew MacCallum\u2014get a big thank you for supporting his work.\n\nRick would also like to thank his friends at the companies that support his creative endeavors: Joe Johnson Jr. and Joe Johnson Sr. at Really Right Stuff (tripods and ball heads), Jenn Sherry at Delkin Devices (memory cards and readers), Graham Clark at Breakthrough Photography (filters), and Larry Tiefenbrunn at Platypod (tripods).\n\nAnd of course, we thank you, the reader, for your interest in our work and in the Oregon Coast.\n\nOh yeah, we have one final thank you. It goes to workshop participant Mike \"Spike\" Ince for finding our car keys inside our car when four other people could not find them. Thanks Mike!\n\nBandon Beach sunset\n\n## PREFACE: OREGON COAST TRIP TIPS\n\nCan't wait to get on the road? We understand. However, before you put your car into drive, we suggest that you check out these road trip tips\u2014developed over the course of our five trips on the Oregon Coast\u2014which will make your trip more enjoyable, productive, and safe.\n\n**Planning:** Planning is an essential part of any road trip. Sure, it's good to be flexible, but planning your route, looking up drive times between destinations, booking a hotel, and researching dining accommodations will help ensure a smooth ride.\n\nBecause you will be on the West Coast, the stage is set for spectacular sunsets. And in the morning you'll have beautiful warm light. Both are great for photography. Plan to leave your hotel with plenty of time to catch the best light.\n\nWe usually do our road trips in the spring, summer, and fall, when the weather is relatively warm and the seas are calm. Winter is also a good time to take an Oregon Coast road trip. It's cool and the seas can pick up, which can make for very dramatic photographs of the waves crashing along the shoreline.\n\nA unique aspect of planning an Oregon Coast road trip involves checking the tides, which you can do on your computer through tides.net and noaa.gov, or on your smartphone by using an app such as Tides Near Me or TideTrac. We plan our trips so that low tide coincides with the golden hours for photography\u2014which means that in addition to checking the tides, you will need to know the times of sunrise and sunset. Many online references can help with this. We like sunrise-sunset.org, or you can use the weather app on your smartphone.\n\nMany of the best photo-shooting locations are within Oregon's state parks, recreation areas, natural areas, and scenic viewpoints. We find the park facilities along the coast to be welcoming and well maintained.\n\nPart of planning is to get an Oregon state park pass in advance of your trip. Having the pass will help save time and money, as you will not have to stop and pay for parking at locations that require a permit. There are several types of passes. We buy the twelve-month day-use parking permit ($30 at the time of writing). It's good at all twenty-six Oregon state parks that charge a parking fee and is available for purchase online at oregonstateparks.org.\n\nWe book all of our hotels well in advance of our departure and stick pretty much to our planned schedule.\n\n**Car:** We rent a full-size car for three reasons: comfort, road safety, and space for bag storage, including room in the trunk for camera and computer bags. Keeping bags out of sight helps keep them safe\u2014bags in the back seat can be a target for break-ins.\n\n**GPS:** Of course, smartphones have great GPS tools. But we prefer using a separate GPS unit for road trips. It frees up your phone so you can do research as you travel, and it prevents your phone from overheating if it is positioned in the sun. Before we leave home, we add most of our destination addresses to our GPS unit. On-site, we add more.\n\n**Drivers:** We share the driving. This makes the ride more fun, especially for Rick, who likes to take a nap every day! It feels safer to switch drivers. A fresh driver is more alert than a tired driver. The off-duty driver can also help with navigation and with spotting potential photo opportunities!\n\n**Water:** You don't want to run out of water on the road. We always have several bottles of water in our car and are never thirsty. We pick up a stash of water every time we stop for gas.\n\n**Exercise:** Sitting for hours on end makes your muscles stiff. Every once in a while, take a break\u2014make a pit stop, get out from behind the wheel, and stretch. Also do some stretching exercises before you get on the road and before you go to bed.\n\nTravel Apps on Smartphones\n\nIn addition to the apps we mentioned that track tides, sunrise, and sunset, there are many useful apps to help you find locations and services along the way, and to put on some great tunes while you're on the road from one location to the next.\n\nHere are the apps and services we use to both plan our trips and support our needs while on the road.\n\n\u2022 Google Maps\u2014Find locations quickly by address. Plug in your next destination and get the estimated drive time. Also good for finding gas stations on the fly.\n\n\u2022 TripAdvisor\u2014Find a list of hotels in the area. Good for planning or for unexpected overnights.\n\n\u2022 Yelp\u2014You have to eat. Find restaurants with good food and ambience. Read reviews to identify places that match your personal taste.\n\n\u2022 Travel Altimeter\u2014Keep track of your altitude. You might be surprised at how high the road takes you. Drink more water to avoid the effects of high altitude.\n\n\u2022 Weather.com\u2014Good for getting a preview of temperatures in upcoming locations. Also a fast way to get sunrise and sunset times so you can capture images in good light.\n\n\u2022 Spotify\u2014Streaming music is a great way to enjoy your favorite tunes while you're traveling. You can also browse some great playlists under the \"Travel\" category. Our favorite playlists include \"Heartland Drive,\" \"Family Road Trip,\" and \"Drive Through the Mountains.\" We pay for premium service so we can download playlists for the road and we don't have to listen to ads.\n\nThat's Rick at the Coquille River Light in Bandon. As you can see, Rick is wearing rubber boots. On the left is Rick's friend Mike \"Spike\" Ince, who is not wearing boots and whose socks and feet are soaked in this picture. _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n**Eating:** It's tempting to overeat when you encounter lots and lots of great seafood at the local restaurants. But eating healthy will give you more energy and help to keep your calorie intake low. We keep a box of granola bars in the car so we can enjoy a healthy snack between meals.\n\n**Driving:** Some of the roads on the Oregon Coast are tree-lined, narrow, and winding. Be alert. Be careful. Check your rearview mirror often. Be respectful of other drivers, and observe the speed limits, too.\n\n**Gas:** Even though there are plenty of gas stations in the towns you'll be staying in and passing through, we recommend getting gas whenever you can. Or follow my dad's advice: Never leave for a destination with half a tank of gas.\n\n**Clothing:** Temperatures vary during the day. It can be cool and rainy in the morning and hot and sunny by midday. Dress in layers and peel them off as the day heats up. It's a good idea to pack a hat and sunscreen in your day bag.\n\nA wide-brim hat, like the one Susan is wearing in this photograph, and sunscreen are also important accessories. It's easy to get sunburned when you are outside for most of the day. Don't be fooled by an overcast sky; the sun is always working.\n\nPerhaps your most important clothing accessory is rubber boots or NEOS (slip-on, waterproof overshoes available from outdoorphotogear.com). Boots or overshoes will keep your feet dry while you are exploring the shore and tide pools.\n\n**AAA:** If you drive your own car and do not belong to AAA (the American Automobile Association), we strongly recommend that you become a member. You never know what can happen on the road, and AAA will provide roadside assistance. AAA coverage works when you're driving a rental car, too. It can also get you a discount on hotel rooms; ask about the discount when you book a room or at check-in.\n\n### Safety First\n\n_Sneaker wave_. My friend and Oregon Coast workshop co-leader Alex Morley introduced our group to this term. \"Powerful sneaker waves,\" Alex said, \"can sneak up on you and knock you down . . . or, worse yet, pull you into the pounding surf. Always be aware of potential sneaker waves, and never take chances.\"\n\nShore area behind the Adobe Resort in Yachats\n\nAlso be cautious when walking on the algae-covered rocks that are exposed at low tide. These are very, very slippery. Flip-flops and light sneakers are a no-no; hiking boots and sturdy shoes are strongly recommended.\n\nStairs that lead down to the beach can also be slippery. Hold on to the railing while going up and down the stairs. This is the 142-step staircase across from Sunset Oceanfront Lodging in Bandon. Take a shot of the beach, even if it's overcast, before you head down to the shore.\n\nAnd of course, safety starts with being in good shape. Because you will be climbing up and down stairs and small cliffs, as well as on rocks, you must be in good shape to get the most out of your Oregon Coast road trip.\n\nWe started this section with a photograph of a beautiful sunset on Bandon Beach. This photograph was taken in the same location. Even with the dense fog, we had a great time, making moody photographs and exploring the area in the soft light. So when the fog rolls in, don't roll out. Stay and enjoy the wonders of Mother Nature.\n\nFollow our tips and you will be better prepared for what we feel is one of the best road trips around.\n\nWe can't stress safety enough. We photographed this sign at Strawberry Hill. You'll see similar signs at many of the locations we mention in this book.\n\n## FOREWORD BY NICK PAGE\n\nSimply put, the Oregon Coast is a very special place. Expansive sand dunes, towering basalt cliffs, rain forests, monolithic sea stacks, and iconic lighthouses are just a small part of what makes the area a bucket-list destination.\n\nThe Oregon Coast truly is a photographer's paradise. I personally love photographing the way the sea interacts with the dramatic coastline. There is something both exciting and therapeutic about photographing water and waves. No two waves are the same. The Oregon Coast can be peaceful, powerful, tranquil, and quite intimidating\u2014sometimes all in the same day.\n\nThe book you are about to read is written by the dynamic duo of Rick and Susan Sammon\u2014two of the most upbeat, positive, and enthusiastic people I have ever met. Their love for the Oregon Coast is matched only by their love of the art of photography\u2014and of teaching.\n\nI've worked with Rick and Susan on the Oregon Coast, and I have to tell you, their enthusiasm for photography, for the region\u2014and for life\u2014is contagious.\n\nThis book is filled with great locations, great photographs, and important how-to suggestions\u2014as well as a few \"Sammonisms,\" Rick's easy-to-remember, quick photo tips.\n\nSit back and enjoy this book about my favorite coastline on this planet, written by two of my favorite humans.\n\nwww.nickpagephotography.com\n\n_Both photographs by Nick Page_\n\nBandon Beach sunset\n\n## INTRODUCTION: WHY DO AN OREGON COAST PHOTO ROAD TRIP?\n\nThere's something very special about being by the water. Perhaps it's the sound of the powerful waves crashing on the shoreline, or soft waves caressing the sand and rocks. Maybe it's the way the light\u2014sunlight and moonlight\u2014reflects off the surface of the water, creating sparkling scenes that dazzle your eyes. It could be how at sunrise and sunset, Mother Nature's magical colors, help to paint scenes of wonderment.\n\nAnd of course, the sights and sounds of seascapes, accented by the sweet smell of sea air, may awaken a primordial feeling that is deeply ingrained in everyone.\n\nThe Oregon Coast offers all of the above and more: lighthouses (technically called _lights_ ) perched on steep cliffs, picturesque fishing villages filled with quaint ships and weathered fishermen, huge rock formations that jut out of the sand, thriving tide pools, a wonderful aquarium in Newport, flocking seabirds and majestic seals, and even a world-class golf course in Bandon. And, last but not least, great seafood!\n\nAll these options, combined with easy accessibility and great places to eat and stay, make the Oregon Coast an ideal weeklong (or so) road trip for serious photographers and casual travelers.\n\nNeed more reasons to do an Oregon Coast road trip? Here is our top-ten list:\n\n**1.** Driving from location to location along long and winding roads, with turnoffs for beautiful beaches and picturesque lighthouses, is a relaxing and peaceful experience. Stopping for bites to eat and overnight stays in seaside towns adds to the charm of your road trip. Drive time, away from computers and smartphones, can be think time\u2014time to think about what you have seen and photographed, and to reflect on your experiences.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Hotels book up early for the summer months, so make your reservations well in advance.\n\n**2.** You will meet some wonderful people\u2014and characters\u2014on the docks, in the restaurants, at the hotels and motels, and in the shops.\n\n_Quick tip:_ When approaching strangers for photographs, smile and ask permission first. Promising to send a photograph is also important. Be sure to get the person's e-mail address.\n\n**3.** Photo opportunities are everywhere, if you seek them out . . . and really look for them.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Remember, there is a big difference between looking and seeing.\n\n**4.** Celebrate the beauty of one of America's most scenic roads, US Highway 101. Designated the Oregon Coast Highway in this neck of the woods, the 101 is your main road for the whole trip. Enjoy the ride as you travel along the Pacific Coast through mountain passes and coastal towns. Almost all of the major photo locations in this book are easily accessible from the Oregon Coast Highway. Once you reach a location, you'll find parking lots and a path or stairs that lead down to the shore.\n\nCoquille River Light\n\nHeceta Head Light\n\n_Quick tip:_ Be extra careful when walking down wooden stairs. Sea spay can make them very slippery.\n\n**5.** Once you arrive in Oregon, you don't have to get on an airplane to go from location to location until your trip is over. Being self-sufficient and in total control of your schedule is a wonderful and freeing feeling.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Be sure to lock your car at all locations.\n\n**6.** Your road trip will not break the bank if you plan wisely. It's a trip that just about everyone can take.\n\n**7.** You will get inspired to make new pictures because you will be photographing in new locations.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Get up early and stay out late to capture the best light. Remember\u2014you snooze, you lose.\n\n**8.** You will also be challenged with weather from time to time, which is a good thing for a photographer. Mist, sometimes very heavy, rolls in and out. This can make for beautiful, moody photographs, but if the mist is too thick, your photo shoot could be a bust. If that happens, just wait for the mist to burn off, or return to the same location at another time.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Always carry a lens-cleaning cloth to wipe mist, which can make pictures look soft, off your lens.\n\n**9.** Processing your seascape images\u2014in Photoshop, Lightroom, or on your iPhone\u2014can also play a part in creating original images.\n\n_Quick tip:_ Back up your pictures in at least two places (accessory hard drive or in the cloud) before you go to sleep each night.\n\n**10.** You will have a ton of fun exploring the Oregon Coast. We have been to about a hundred countries and we think that traveling on the Oregon Coast is one of the most inspirational photo trips a photographer can make\u2014because of the beauty and photo opportunites you will find.\n\nSeaside streets along the Oregon Coast are filled with color. Early risers avoid crowds.\n\nLater afternoon at Face Rock, Bandon _Photograph by Gary Potts_\n\nAs an aside, Route 66 is also a fun-filled trip. So much fun that we wrote a book on our adventure: _The Route 66 Photo Road Trip\u2014How to Eat, Stay, Play, and Shoot Like a Pro._\n\n_Quick tip:_ The more fun you put into a road trip, or any vacation, the more fun you and your traveling companion or companions will have.\n\nRick's shot of Thor's Well, Cape Perpetua.\n\nRick photographing at Thor's Well. _Photograph by Sarah Cail_\n\n### Using This Book\n\nWe wrote this book, as well as our _Route 66 Photo Road Trip_ book, for you\u2014someone who wants to enjoy, explore, and document the great outdoors.\n\nIn working on this book, we had two goals in mind:\n\n**1.** We wanted this book to be a planning guide, so you can make the most of your road trip in a limited amount of time.\n\n**2.** We wanted this book to be your on-site companion, helping you have the most fun and make the best photographs during your time on the road\u2014in this case, on our favorite parts of the Oregon Coast, from north to south, starting in Cannon Beach and ending in Bandon, with stays in Newport and Florence or Yachats.\n\nOur recommended itinerary covers the \"prime cut\" of the Oregon Coast\u2014a selective section of the coast that is perfect for a weeklong photography road trip.\n\nIn planning your road trip, we suggest that you read this book's chapters in order. They were written in the order in which we visited each location, and in the order you will most likely be visiting each location on a one-way road trip. If you read in order, you will be able to plan your trip from start to finish, getting a good idea of the locations that lie ahead.\n\nIf you are new to taking road trips, our tips in the preface will get you prepared for spending time in the car, in hotels, in cities and towns, and in the great outdoors along the shore.\n\nWe also recommend that you read our photo tips in the \"Jump-Start Your Oregon Coast Photography Experience\" section before you travel through the pages that follow. In these tips, Rick talks about making pictures with digital SLR and mirrorless cameras, and Susan offers suggestions for photographing with smartphones.\n\nWe hope you enjoy the ride.\n\n_Photograph by Alex Stofko_\n\n## PART I\n\nJUMP-START YOUR OREGON COAST PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE\nRICK'S QUICK OREGON COAST PHOTO TIPS\u2014\n\n## FOR DIGITAL SLRS AND MIRRORLESS CAMERAS\n\nExploring the Oregon Coast is a magical experience\u2014an experience that, through photographs, you can relive again and again and share with others.\n\nAnd when it comes to photographs, there is a big difference between a snapshot and a great shot\u2014a photograph that captures the mood and feeling of a scene, the most important elements in any image.\n\nIn this section, I'll share with you some quick tips for bringing home images you are proud of, to display on your walls or share on social media.\n\nStrawberry Hill _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n**Use your camera like a drone:** The height at which you hold your camera makes a big difference in the final image. That's me in the first picture, getting down low to photograph the sea stars in the following picture. Had I been standing straight up, the photograph surely would have looked like a snapshot. Before you take a picture, move your camera up and down, like a drone, and choose the height that best tells the story of a scene.\n\n**When you think you are close, get closer:** I used my Canon 15 mm fish-eye lens to capture all the sea stars on this huge mussel-covered rock. The image makes an impact for two main reasons: the subjects are interesting and colorful, and I was photographing very close, maybe about two feet from the rock. Getting closer does not always make a better picture, because negative space can be nice, too. But give it a try and see if your image looks more dramatic from a closer perspective.\n\nStrawberry Hill\n\n**Slow it down:** For creative seascape photographs with silky-looking water, you need two essential accessories: a neutral-density (ND) filter or set of filters and a sturdy tripod.\n\nND filters reduce the amount of light entering your camera, allowing you to use slow shutter speeds\u2014from 1\/4 second to several seconds or minutes\u2014even on bright days. You will need a sturdy tripod to steady your camera during long exposures.\n\nI used a shutter speed of eight seconds to create the glass-like water effect in the photograph on page 40.\n\nVariable ND filters let you dial in the light-reducing effect, usually from eight to ten f-stops. Fixed ND filters come in different grades\u2014three, six, ten, and twenty f-stops. I use only fixed ND filters, made by Breakthrough Photography. Why? Because variable ND filters can produce a dark band or circle in the image when you're using a wide-angle lens. Sure, a set of fixed ND filters is more expensive than a variable ND filter, but the quality and the results are worth it.\n\nSeal Rock\n\nSeal Rock\n\nHere I used a shutter speed of five seconds to blur the moving water.\n\nSo, what's the best slow shutter speed to use? It depends\u2014ideal shutter speed varies based on how fast the water is moving, how close you are to the water, and your desired effect. My advice is to photograph the same scene using different shutter speeds, and choose your favorite when you get home.\n\nThe four photographs on page 43 illustrate the difference between fast and slow shutter speeds. The two pictures on the left were taken at 1\/125 second, while the pictures on the right were taken at 1\/4 second. You may like all four images, as I do; both fast shutter speeds and slow shutter speeds can create images that have an impact.\n\nHere's a tip that applies to these photographs, and to all the seaside locations in this book: keep a microfiber cloth handy to wipe salt spray, which can make pictures look soft, off your lens. Also, keep your camera in a plastic camera cover to protect it from the elements when needed.\n\nThor's Well\n\nYaquina Bay Light\n\n**Perfect a pano:** You will find many sweeping seascapes as you travel along the Oregon Coast. These extra-wide views are perfect for panoramas. This image is the result of five photographs stitched together with Lightroom's Panorama feature, which automatically combines several images into a panorama.\n\nWhen taking pictures for a panorama, you'll need to follow these recommendations:\n\n**1.** Remove all filters.\n\n**2.** Set your camera to manual exposure, and set the exposure for the brightest part of the scene.\n\n**3.** Hold your camera vertically.\n\n**4.** Take your first picture at the right or left of the scene. Move your camera so that the next image overlaps with the previous image by about one-third.\n\n**5.** Repeat, keep the horizon line level, until your set of images is complete.\n\nStrawberry Hill\n\n**Pack a telephoto lens:** In addition to offering breathtaking scenic opportunities, which you'll capture with your wide-angle lens (I recommend a 16-35 mm lens), the Oregon Coast is also home to a wonderful array of wildlife. For close-ups of the animals, you'll need a telephoto lens. This photograph of a mother seal and her pup was taken with my Canon 100-400 mm lens, which is my favorite wildlife photography lens. You'll need that 400 mm focal length because in many cases you can't get close to the animals.\n\nBandon Beach\n\n**Expose for the highlights:** Notice the beautiful rim light, and the detail in that light, around this horse and rider. You see the detail because I set the exposure for the highlights. To achieve this, activate your camera's highlight alert or overexposure warning. Take a shot. If you get what are called blinkies\u2014the warning light blinking, which indicates overexposed areas of a scene\u2014reduce your exposure a little at a time until those nasty blinkies go away.\n\nBandon Beach\n\n**Silhouette secrets:** Silhouettes are fun and creative, because they have a sense of mystery and wonder. To prevent overexposed highlights, set your exposure compensation to \u22121 to start.\n\nStrawberry Hill\n\n**Make cool close-ups:** You will find cool close-up opportunities at tide pools as you explore the Oregon Coast. Check the tides using a tide app, so you are on location at low tide, when the sea stars and anemones are out of the water.\n\nYou don't need a true macro lens for close-ups unless you want a full-frame shot of a very small subject. A high-quality wide-angle lens takes excellent close-up shots. All my close-ups in this book were taken with my Canon 24-105 mm IS lens.\n\nKeep in mind that when you're photographing subjects close-up, depth of field is reduced. Therefore, use a small aperture, f\/11 or f\/16, if you want to get the entire scene in focus.\n\nYou can reduce reflections by using a polarizing filter. Holding a black umbrella over the area is also a good way to reduce reflections.\n\n**Explore HDR:** High dynamic range photography is needed to capture the entire brightness range of a scene with very high contrast. Basially, you take a series of pictures at different exposures\u2014at, over, and under the recommended exposure setting\u2014and then use an HDR program to merge the images into one dramatically exposed image.\n\nHere are the seven exposures I took to produce my HDR image of Devil's Punchbowl.\n\nDevil's Punchbowl\n\nNewport\n\n**Photograph people:** You will meet some wonderful people and interesting characters\u2014fishermen, beach walkers, restaurant owners, and fellow road warriors\u2014on your travels along the Oregon Coast. Pictures of these people will add a human element to a slide show or online gallery.\n\nOur number one tip for photographing people on the Oregon Coast is to take an environmental portrait\u2014that is, a picture of the person in his or her surrounding environment. A tight head shot could have been taken in your backyard. The subject's environment helps to tell his or her story.\n\nWhen photographing people, keep in mind that silence is deadly. Keep a conservation going by asking questions. When photographing a fisherman, for example, ask about his boat, how long he stays out, his catch, and so on.\n\n**Remember to take pictures of yourself with your spouse or traveling buddy:** If no one is around to take a shot, set up your camera on a tripod and use the self-timer to capture a special moment, as we did here in Florence.\n\nHeceta Head Light\n\n**Have no fear\u2014Lightroom and Photoshop are here:** The weather on the Oregon Coast is constantly changing. It may be foggy for a while, and then the sun will come out to brighten up your day\u2014and vice versa.\n\nIf you don't have time to wait for the best weather, enjoy the mood of the scene and keep taking pictures even if they look dull and flat. Post-processing will come to the rescue.\n\nLackluster pictures can be transformed into beautiful images with the help of Photoshop, Lightroom, and other image-processing programs, as illustrated by this before-and-after pair of pictures. The transformation is the result of the photo being digitally enhanced by applying Dehaze and boosting the contrast and saturation.\n\nNo matter what kind of camera you use, remember\u2014cameras don't take pictures; people do.\n\nThe Oregon Coast is known for bodies of water and waves. It's also known for its sand dunes. Take both wide-angle and detail photographs\u2014and look for something you recognize in the patterns created by light and shadows. What do you see in the close-up photograph on the right? Some folks see the figure of a woman. One of our friends saw a guitar.\n\nIn the ports along the coast, you will also find old fishing vessels, and in Newport you will find a marine junkyard of sorts, Foulweather Trawl, where I took this photograph of a patch of rust on an old piece of commercial fishing equipment. I see a sailing ship at sunset. What do you see? As we will demonstrate throughout this book, photo opportunities really are everywhere\u2014if you look for them.\n\nThe ever-changing weather of the Oregon Coast is illustrated by these photographs of Bandon Beach, taken just hours apart. In general, you should always, always check the weather. It's also a good idea to plan your road trip so you can return to a location if the weather looks as though it will change. Even if the weather's bad, enjoy the moment. Take a fun shot to bring back a memory of a great road trip.\n\nBandon\n\nI love digital SLR and mirrorless photography, and processing my pictures in Lightroom and Photoshop, but I also love the images that Susan produces with her iPhone. You'll see her work in the next section. For now, here is a shot of Susan teaching iPhone photography to some of our Oregon Coast photo workshop students. It's kind of funny that all the cameras on the tripods are abandoned.\n\nBandon Beach\n\nHere's one of Susan's iPhone-enhanced images. She used the Distressed FX app to add the clouds to the clear sky. Very cool.\nSUSAN'S PHOTO TIPS\u2014\n\n## FOR SMARTPHONE CAMERAS\n\nDo you like to travel light with photo gear? Well, here's some good news: your smartphone is a great camera for an Oregon Coast sojourn. Locations along the coast at beaches, harbors, and scenic parklands present perfect photo opportunities for these small yet powerful cameras.\n\nAs we have mentioned throughout this book, the parks and recreation areas on the Oregon Coast are sometimes gray due to rain and fog. To add pizzazz and variety to dull images, I encourage you to experiment with photo apps, which are available for both iPhones and Android phones.\n\nI find that adding effects with photo apps is a joyful and creative process, and it gets my images more attention on social media. The same might be true for you. Yes, some of my iPhone photos have a distinctive post-processed look, but this is my intention. All good!\n\nHeceta Head Light\n\nBefore we get into adding special effects, let's review a few basics. Make sure your photos are in focus and well exposed by holding your phone steady when taking your shots, and by using your touch screen controls to select focus and exposure before you shoot.\n\nYou will find many photo-processing apps in the App Store and on Google Play. To help you get started, I will highlight a few of my favorites. Some are free, such as Snapseed, and others cost a few dollars. At the end of this section you'll see the app icons, to make sure you select the right ones when you shop. All my recommendations are available for iPhones. Some are not available for Androids, but you can find apps that offer similar effects.\n\n### Add Light with LensFlare\n\nLighthouses are some of Oregon's most iconic photo subjects. They are very commanding perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. And they can look even better with dramatic and colorful light beams added. Use the app LensFlare to add different types of light: anamorphic, spherical, sun flares, and streaks. Select the light type under Effects. Use your fingers to move the beam into place; then pinch to adjust the size. Here I added a spherical beam with a \"Sci-Fi\" filter to make Yaquina Light pop.\n\nWhen you're shooting into the sun, LensFlare can add a starburst effect similar to the one you'd get using a full-feature camera shooting at f\/16 or f\/22. To add light beams coming through the trees, I selected a sun flare effect and adjusted the color using the Edit sliders.\n\n### Add Clouds with Distressed FX\n\nSometimes a clear, cloudless blue sky is not the best background for a beach scene. To break up the uniform color and make your image more compelling, try adding a cloud effect using the app Distressed FX. I use this app to add texture and to boost color using the original overlay pack. After you purchase the app, you can buy more options. The Heavens overlay pack can add wonderful clouds to any photo, such as the \"Waving Cloud\" effect I added to my Bandon Beach image. In this case, I was going for a realistic look.\n\nColorful clouds can spice up a quiet beach scene. To add drama to my Cannon Beach photo, I used the \"Lanky\" effect, also found in the Heavens pack of Distressed FX, which creates a dreamy-looking image.\n\n### Add texture with Brushstroke and Distressed FX\n\nNothing transforms a photo like texture. Make your photos look more artistic by using photo apps to add color and texture\u2014just like a painter!\n\nThe Brushstroke app is very easy to use. Select a photo and then test the presets in different brushstroke categories, including oil, washed, and natural. Keep clicking until you see something you like. I chose a \"Simple\"-style brushstroke for this photo of the Coquille lighthouse in Bandon.\n\nCoquille Lighthouse, Bandon\n\nCape Kiwanda\n\nI decided to go for a more abstract look with a beach scene at Cape Kiwanda. Here I used the Distressed FX app with the original overlay pack. I selected \"Lora\" on the upper slider for a two-tone color enhancement and \"Blithe\" on the lower slider for dramatic texture. This app makes the kayaks more visible; they were lost in the original gray-day image.\n\n### Try Vintage with Snapseed\n\nGood old Snapseed, my favorite overall photo-processing app, is a powerful tool. For my travel photos, I often use the Vintage options on my people shots. Pick an image, select Vintage, and click through the presets until you get a look you like. I selected a sepia tone and then added a curved-edge frame to create a postcard-like image of beach fishermen at Cape Kiwanda.\n\nCape Kiwanda\n\nI used a black-and-white effect from the Vintage presets for this shot of Rick, which reminds me of an old Henri Cartier-Bresson photo. To finish the look, I added a grungy frame using the Frame tool.\n\n### Try Black-and-White with Dramatic Black & White and Snapseed\n\nConverting color photos to black-and-white images can make them look more dramatic. The app Dramatic Black & White gives you lots of options, including black-and-white, dramatic black-and-white, and infrared. The day I took this photo of the Spouting Horn, it was very sunny and everything was evenly lit. I selected one of the dramatic black-and-white presets to increase contrast and make the splashing water look more powerful against the rocks.\n\nSpouting Horn\n\nShores Acres State Park\n\nSnapseed offers two tools for creating monochromatic effects: black-and-white and noir. Subjects with a lot of texture, like rocks and fishing boats, look really good in black-and-white. Here I used a subtle black-and-white preset to enhance the shadows of the rocks along the cliff at Shore Acres State Park.\n\n### Go Bold with Photo Wizard\n\nAs you can see from the images in this section, I enjoy transforming my iPhone photos by enhancing the color and texture. I also like to use special effects to take photos to another level of creativity. The following images show examples of these effects.\n\nYaquina Bay Bridge\n\nThe app Photo Wizard has some wild and crazy effects. You can experiment a lot with this app. To begin, open a photo in Photo Wizard and select Fx Effects to access more than forty presets. The \"Symmetry\" effect works well on structures like buildings, docks, and dams. I think it makes the Yaquina Bay Bridge soar to new heights.\n\nIf you select Filters in Photo Wizard, you will find another twenty presets to jazz up your photos. I chose the \"Motion Blur\" filter for this dramatic photo of Rick on the beach in Oregon. This effect looks good on a single subject positioned in the center of the frame.\n\n### A Closing Thought\n\nShooting and processing iPhone photographs can be a satisfying creative outlet. It is for me. The good news is that if you have your phone with you, you have a camera and a way to process photos anywhere. I find that I enjoy post-processing my images when I'm on the road, waiting for a plane, or when I have a quiet moment at home.\n\nSometimes I get lost in the process and keep working on an image, using several different apps to edit it. When I'm done, I cannot always remember all the steps. No worries! That is the case in the image of the Heceta Head Light that opens this section. I don't know how I got there, but I love the result.\n\nI encourage you to download a few of these apps and experiment with your own work. Maybe you will find a new way to express your creative side, and stumble on a photo style that makes you smile.\n\n## PART II\n\nOREGON COAST ROAD TRIP\n\nCANNON BEACH\u2014\n\n## HOME BASE FOR THE NORTHERN COAST\n\nOne of Oregon's most popular spots, Haystack Rock, draws beach lovers and photographers alike to Cannon Beach. It is a commanding visual landmark; a 235-foot-high basalt dome presiding over a beautiful sandy beach. But this bustling coastal town offers more than just a rock; Cannon Beach has an abundance of galleries, shops, and restaurants as well.\n\nWe recommend that you start your photo road trip here\u2014on a high note, with photogenic subjects. You'll get a sample of what is in store all along the coast\u2014beautiful beaches, rocky cliffs, great state parks, and the variable weather that can go from gray, overcast skies to golden sunset in a flash.\n\nExpect foggy mornings in the summer and sudden temperature drops along the coast. Don't worry if you forget to pack a sweatshirt; you can always buy one at the colorful shops in town.\n\nCannon Beach is also a good home base for visiting Oregon's northernmost region, all the way up to the Columbia River. There will be lots of tourist traffic, especially in the summer, as it is just an hour-and-a-half drive from Portland.\n\nIn this guide, we focus on points closer to Cannon Beach with reliable photographic opportunities found at Ecola, Fort Stevens, and Hug Point State Parks.\n\nHaystack Rock, Cannon Beach\n\n### Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock\n\nAs lifelong East Coasters, we enjoy observing and photographing the busy beach activities on Cannon Beach. There are family strollers, lone joggers, dog walkers, sandcastle builders, birders, and fellow photographers. Swimming is not the main draw, for good reason. The Pacific Ocean's temperature here peaks during the summer in the mid-fifties Fahrenheit.\n\nThere is public access to the beach at several points. To get to Haystack Rock, park at the Haystack Rock public parking lot at the intersection of Hemlock and Gower. Then cross the street and follow the signs to the beach. We love the private hotel access at the Hallmark Resort Hotel. If you stay at the Hallmark, many rooms overlook the beach and Haystack Rock, so you can monitor conditions for making images right from your room. When you are ready, the hotel's wooden stairs get you to the beach in no time.\n\nIt's interesting to note that there are other Haystack Rocks along the Oregon Coast as well. We highlight the one in Cannon Beach, but there is another in Pacific City that you will see from Cape Kiwanda, a couple stops later in your trip.\n\nHaystack Rock, Cannon Beach\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Shoot at sunset:** We feel that sunset is the best time to photograph Haystack Rock. In the above photo, Rick shot at f\/22 with his Canon 24-105 mm IS lens to create the starburst effect.\n\n**Capture the mood:** Got fog? Go for it! Capture the mood and enjoy the moment. In the top photo on the next page, Susan transformed an iPhone color photo into a beautiful black-and-white image.\n\n**Capture the fun:** Sure, go for artistic seascape images, but also take fun people shots with your phone, as Susan did in the bottom photo on the next page. She enhanced this image with a Vintage effect in Snapseed.\n\nEcola State Park\n\n### Ecola State Park\n\nJust a short drive north of Cannon Beach, you'll find the entrance to Ecola State Park. This large park offers diverse photographic opportunities, including dramatic ocean vistas, driftwood-filled beaches, and a moody old-growth forest.\n\nYou'll need your Oregon state park pass here, or if you don't have one, there's a $5 entrance fee.\n\nFor a classic, sweeping view of the Oregon Coast, drive to Ecola Point. Parking is limited and can be a challenge on busy summer days. But braving the crowd is worth it\u2014the view of Crescent Beach is wonderful, especially on a clear day, when you can see Haystack Rock in the distance. It's a good place to work on panoramic images.\n\nDriving to Indian Point takes you on a winding road through a beautiful forest. The trees look magical in the mist and rain, and they provide creative subjects for photography. Finding a place to pull over is the tricky part; parking is not allowed on the side of the road. When you get to Indian Point, you'll find a path leading down to the beach, with opportunities to capture crashing waves and surfers.\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Shake it up:** Try this cool effect\u2014move your camera up and down while you are taking a picture, to blur the entire image. By removing some of the sharpness from the scene, you are removing some of the reality. When you remove some of the reality, a picture can, but not always, look more creative and artistic\u2014as illustrated by Susan's iPhone photograph.\n\n**Use Dehaze:** Photoshop and Lightroom have a feature called Dehaze, which reduces the softening effect of haze in a photograph. Rick applied Dehaze to the opening picture for this section for a clearer view of Crescent Beach. On the next page, you see the before and after effect.\n\nCrescent Beach\n\nWreck of the _Peter Iredale_\n\n### Wreck of the _Peter Iredale_\n\nThe rust-covered skeleton of the _Peter Iredale_ , perfectly posed upright on a wide, sandy beach, is located about thirty minutes north of Cannon Beach in Fort Stevens State Park. This park is Oregon's largest state park and offers trails for hiking and biking, historic landmarks, and ocean and river views.\n\nThe remains of the shipwreck\u2014a British ship that ran aground in 1906\u2014is a popular stop for photographers, especially at sunset and at low tide. Again, checking the tides in all your Oregon Coast locations will help you get close to photo subjects.\n\nA good idea is to use your GPS to guide you to the park. If you are driving north from Cannon Beach, you'll take US 101 to Oregon Route 104. Look for the signs to Fort Stevens. When you enter the park, pick up a brochure or find a posted map to navigate to the _Peter Iredale_ shipwreck.\n\nFort Stevens State Park\n\n100 Peter Iredale Rd.\n\nHammond, OR 97121\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Show scale:** You might be surprised at the relatively small size of shipwreck. To convey the size of the subject, place a person in the scene, as Susan did by asking Rick to step into the frame. Yes! As usual, Rick is wearing his waterproof boots, which he recommends for all beach photography.\n\n**Be creative:** You might find yourself at this location in less-than-ideal conditions, with gray skies and many tourists and photographers. If that is the case, embrace the situation: think of it as a good time to experiment with creative image making. Try converting an image to black-and-white, taking silhouettes, and exploring close-ups, as Susan did here with her iPhone.\n\n**After-image effects:** Believe it or not, Susan took this picture shortly after she took the iPhone photo of Rick that opens this section. She added the color and clouds using Distressed FX, one of her favorite iPhone apps. So the tip is this: When the light is not quite right for you, think about all the creative possibilities\u2014with apps and with Photoshop and Lightroom plug-ins\u2014that await you in post-processing.\n\nHug Point State Recreation Site _Photograph by Gerry Oar_\n\n### Hug Point State Recreation Site\n\nWith a name like Hug Point, this place has to have a story. Before the Oregon Coast Highway was built, early travelers used the beach as a road and had to negotiate around this coastal point at low tide. Later, a roadway was blasted in the rocks to allow stagecoaches and wagons a way around without getting wet. Travelers had to hug the edge of the cliff to stay safe from the ocean. Today, the remains of the rock road can still be seen.\n\nHug Point is a small site with limited parking. Plan your visit for low tide, and be mindful of the incoming tide, as you could get stranded. There is easy access from the parking lot to a lovely sandy cove with forest above and sea caves below.\n\nHug Point is just five miles south of Cannon Beach on US 101. Look for the sign after you pass Arcadia Beach State Recreation Site.\n\nHug Point State Recreation Site\n\nUS 101\n\nArch Cape, OR 97102\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\nOur friend and a talented photographer, Gerry Oar, took the picture that opens this section. It illustrates three important photo techniques, in addition to the importance of being in the right place at the right time for the best light.\n\nFirst, everything in the scene is in sharp focus. To achieve that goal, use a wide-angle lens, set a small aperture, and set the focus one-third into the scene. New to setting the focus one-third into the scene? Here's an example: If you were standing at the end of a football field, you'd set the focus at the 33 yard line.\n\nSecond, the horizon line is level. When Rick reviews photographs, if the horizon line it not level, it drives him nuts!\n\nThird, we can see nice detail in both the shadowed and highlighted areas of the scene, which is the result of expert processing. Good job, Gerry!\n\nHug Point\n\n**Try converting:** When we visited Hug Point, we did not have Gerry's luck with light. The picture on the left is Rick's digital camera shot. To create the black-and-white picture in the middle and sepia-tone image on the right, Rick used a Photoshop\/Lightroom plug-in called Silver Efex Pro from Nik Software. In both photographs, the processing enhances the dull sky.\n\nLook for reflections. When you compose your photograph, don't cut off the top of the reflection in the bottom of your frame.\n\n**Always look for pictures:** Again, the day was very overcast when we visited Hug Point. But Susan saw this interesting rock and moved in for a close-up photograph\u2014and made a creative image. Look for pictures and you will find them.\n\nCape Kiwanda\n\n### Cape Kiwanda\n\nA stop at Pacific City is a must for photo road trippers on the Oregon Coast. This small area is packed with wonderful image-making potential. For a dramatic capture, hike up the sand dunes to overlook the mighty Pacific Ocean. This hike might appear easy, but it will get your heart pumping. Stroll the beach to find people fishing on the rock ledges and surfers riding the incoming waves.\n\nIn Cape Kiwanda, watch out for the local dory boats\u2014they launch from the beach and return in a fast-action beach grounding. And glance out to sea\u2014you're not seeing double; it's Pacific City's own Haystack Rock, which adds interest to your seascape photos.\n\nIf you stop at Cape Kiwanda en route to Newport, plan your visit around lunchtime, as there are plenty of places to eat, including an oceanfront brewery and an off-the-main-street treasure. We've listed our favorites in the \"Cannon Beach Stay and Eat\" section.\n\nCape Kiwanda State Natural Area\n\nPacific City, OR 97135\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Shoot it both ways:** To get a shot like you see in the opening of this section, you'll need to climb the sand dune on right side of the beach. Pack your wide-angle zoom to capture the wide\u2014and awesome\u2014view. The view and photo opportunities from the beach are also cool. Try to time your shot so that the waves are caressing the rocks.\n\n**Don't forget verticals:** In landscape and seascape photography, it's easy to forget to take vertical pictures. Sometimes a vertical picture can have more impact than a horizontal picture, as illustrated on the following page.\n\nThis picture was taken on the right side of beach, where you will find a few small caves and walk-throughs. Be _very_ careful while exploring these areas. Watch out for sneaker waves. And as usual, wear your waterproof boots.\n\n### **Cannon Beach Stay and Eat**\n\nLODGING\n\n**Hallmark Resort Hotel and Spa**\n\n1400 S. Hemlock St.\n\nCannon Beach, OR 97110\n\nThe perfect location will cost you. It's worth it. Nice rooms and friendly service.\n\nRESTAURANTS\n\n**Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters**\n\n1235 S. Hemlock St.\n\nCannon Beach, OR 97110\n\nLines form early. Start your day with smooth organic brew and fresh-baked treats.\n\nLazy Susan Caf\u00e9\n\n126 N. Hemlock St.\n\nCannon Beach, OR 97110\n\nPerfect spot for brunch or lunch. Cozy and cash only.\n\nThe Wayfarer Restaurant and Lounge\n\n1190 Pacific Dr.\n\nCannon Beach, OR 97110\n\nFresh, yummy local seafood and good service. Just off the main drag, with a water view.\n\nPelican Brewing Company\n\n1371 S. Hemlock St.\n\nCannon Beach, OR 97110\n\nLively spot. Local brews and gourmet pub fare. Open late.\n\nSampler at the Pelican Brewing Company\n\nON THE WAY (IN PACIFIC CITY)\n\n**Pelican Brewing Company**\n\n33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr.\n\nPacific City, OR 97135\n\nGreat location right on the beach. You can't miss it. Open for lunch or dinner.\n\nThe Grateful Bread Bakery and Restaurant\n\n34805 Brooten Rd.\n\nPacific City, OR 97135\n\nTie-dyed shirts optional. Hearty fare for breakfast and lunch. A short drive from the beach.\n\nLocally sourced fish tacos at The Grateful Bread\n\nNEWPORT\u2014\n\n## HOME BASE FOR THE NORTH-CENTRAL COAST\n\nWith a winning combination of photo opportunities\u2014from stately lighthouses and art deco bridges to rocky cliffs and crashing waves\u2014Newport is a photographic gem on Oregon's Central Coast. It is also a unique destination that combines a busy tourist trade with an active commercial fishing fleet. Best of all, Newport is authentic\u2014with its foggy harbors, barking sea lions, and tide pools waiting for you to capture them.\n\nThe town itself is a bustling place, attracting photographers and non-photographers alike. You'll find lots of shops and restaurants to explore in the Historic Bayfront District. Stroll down SE Bay Boulevard, the main drag, to get a feel for the place and sample some fresh seafood. Then drive over the Yaquina Bay Bridge to visit two popular destinations, the Oregon Coast Aquarium and the Rogue Ales brewery.\n\nThere is plenty here to keep you busy\u2014and full\u2014for two days. We suggest staying in Newport, using it as a home base for your photo road trips north to Devil's Punchbowl and Yaquina Head Light and south to Seal Rock.\n\nNewport Harbor\n\n### Newport Harbor\n\nNewport's Bayfront area is very popular with tourists and photographers. The town's main street, SW Bay Boulevard, can get very crowded during the day, especially around lunchtime and dinnertime. It's a wonderful place to take photos of the docks and boats. If you plan to visit at mealtime, it's best to leave extra time for parking, because parking spaces are limited.\n\nIf you are looking to spend a few peaceful moments on the docks without crowds, it's best to go in the early morning or around dusk, as illustrated in the opening picture for this section.\n\nNewport Historic Bayfront\n\nSE and SW Bay Boulevard\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Photograph the fishermen:** You'll find plenty of fishermen to photograph in Newport, many of whom are more than happy to pose for a photo\u2014if you ask nicely and promise to send a photo.\n\nWhen composing your photograph, watch the background. Make sure it does not detract from the most important thing in the picture, the subject's face.\n\nTry to see eye to eye and photograph eye to eye. At that angle, the person viewing the photograph will feel as though he or she is right there with you.\n\nThat's Rick on the right helping one of our workshop participants make a nice portrait.\n\nSea lions at Newport Harbor\n\n**Go for gesture:** Sea lions seem to love Newport Harbor as much as we do. Pack a telephoto lens for close-up shots of these photogenic animals. Take a lot of pictures, and look for what's called gesture\u2014an expression on the animal's face or a change in body language. The photo on the left shows a more active gesture than the photograph on the right.\n\nSea lions at Newport Harbor\n\n**Watch the background:** If you plan to walk on the floating piers, pack both a telephoto and a wide-angle zoom. If you are lucky, you may get a photograph of several sea lions. Include the Yaquina Bay Bridge in the background for a \"sense of place\" photograph.\n\nNewport Harbor\n\n**Try black-and-white:** There is lots of color in Newport Harbor. But for perhaps a more creative touch, try converting a color file into a beautiful black-and-white image, which will change the mood and feeling of the scene.\n\nYaquina Bay Bridge\n\n### Yaquina Bay Bridge\n\nThe Yaquina Bay Bridge is a landmark in Newport. You will drive over the bridge, and over Yaquina Bay, as you travel from Newport's Historic Bayfront to the aquarium. It is a beautiful and iconic structure with an art deco design. It photographs well, especially in the evening light.\n\nWe found that the best place to photograph the bridge is from below, where you can get a picture that shows a wide view of the structure and that can include some passing ships if you are lucky.\n\nTo get to this viewpoint, park your car at the intersection of SW Naterlin Drive and Yaquina Bay State Park Road. There are a few parking spaces here just under the ramp to the bridge. Walk down SW Naterlin Drive past a few scenic overlook platforms until you see a sign on the fence for Yaquina Bay Beach Trail. Follow the dirt path until you see a safe place to walk down onto the shore. Once on the beach, you'll have a commanding view of the bridge. Wear your hiking boots, for sure.\n\n**Yaquina Bay Bridge**\n\n1950 SW Coast Hwy.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\nYaquina Bay Bridge\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Go wide:** We like photographing the bridge in the late afternoon and at sunset. Bring your wide-angle lens and use the bridge's pilings to add a sense of depth to your photographs.\n\n**Go up or down:** Whether it's sunny or foggy out, the bridge is a great subject, from below (as shown on this page) and from a viewpoint on the street (as shown in the previous image). Try black-and-white, too. Also try a vertical shot.\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\n### Yaquina Head Light\n\nPerched on a steep, rocky, and often windy cliff, Yaquina Head Light is the tallest lighthouse (technically called a _light_ ) on the Oregon Coast. The ninety-three-foot-high structure is not the only attraction in the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area\u2014an area filled with marine life that extends a mile into the ocean.\n\nThis wonderful park is operated by the US Department of the Interior's Bureau of Land Management\u2014so rangers are on-site to lead tours (along the shore and inside the lighthouse), answer your questions, and offer insights into the protected area. Of course, you can explore the area on your own when the park is open.\n\nWhen planning your visit, keep in mind the park hours, because you don't want to be stuck at the gate waiting for the park to open, which is usually around 8:00 a.m. Call for the most up-to-date information, (541) 574-3100, or check the website for Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses, yaquinalights.org.\n\nYou'll have three main areas to explore and photograph during your visit: up top, around the lighthouse; down below, along the shore, which you reach by going down a paved path, down a wooden staircase, and finally onto the rocky beach; and from above, which you access by taking a trail to an overlook area.\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\nThe lighthouse is an easy, short walk from the parking lot, which is about a three-minute drive on NW Lighthouse Drive off the Oregon Coast Highway (US 101). You can leisurely explore this area in your hiking boots. Before you go down to the shore, switch to your waterproof boots or waterproof overshoes, as you will be walking on slippery kelp and over algae-covered rocks.\n\nIf you have time, it's well worth it to go up top, around the lighthouse, for a cool wide-angle shot. Get down low to hide most of the parking lot. Don't forget to keep the horizon level when composing your image.\n\nYaquina Head Light at low tide\n\nOn calm days, you should get nice reflections from down below, along the shore. When composing a scene, look at the bottom of your viewfinder or LCD monitor and make sure the top of the lighthouse is not cut off.\n\nPlan your visit during low tide if you want to explore the tide pools and get dramatic pictures of the lighthouse from below.\n\n**Yaquina Head Light**\n\n750 NW Lighthouse Dr.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Take intimate landscape photos:** You'll find many photo opportunities by the lighthouse and along the shore\u2014as well as on the path between the two areas. Rick took the picture on the next page with his digital SLR and then enhanced it with the iPhone app Distressed FX. This is an intimate landscape image, a picture with a close-up foreground element and a distant background element.\n\nBelow is a before-and-after pair of Susan's iPhone images that illustrates how digital enhancements can, yes, enhance a scene. She used the iPhone app LensFlare to transform a flat color shot into a dramatic black-and-white shot with cool blue beams radiating from the light.\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\nWhen you're using a smartphone for intimate landscape pictures, getting the scene in focus is easy because the very small image sensor offers good depth of field. When using an SLR or mirrorless camera, use a wide-angle lens and a small aperture\u2014a combination of settings that will offer the greatest depth of field.\n\nYaquina Head Light\n\n**Zoom in for detail shots:** For close-ups on the rocky shore, you can use a telephoto or a wide-angle lens. This photo was taken with a 17-40 mm lens set at 17 mm. Smartphones are also good for close-ups.\n\n**Look for pictures within pictures:** Yes, the picture above is a cropped portion of this wide-angle view on the next page! Always look for a picture within a picture, and crop to focus on the interesting part of an image. Remember to shoot vertical images, too, because you may not know which one is best until you get home.\n\n_Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n**Capture birds in flight:** If you are a birder, you will enjoy the variety of birdlife here, so pack your binoculars. If you are a serious bird photographer, and you have a 500 mm, 600 mm, or 700 mm lens, you can try to get shots of murres taking off from the rocks below the cliff the lighthouse is situated on.\n\nThis sign, on the way to the beach, says it all. As always, pay attention to signs, and stay safe.\n\nDevil's Punchbowl\n\n### Devil's Punchbowl\n\nDevil's Punchbowl State Natural Area offers Oregon Coast road trippers a unique visual experience and awesome photo opportunity: an inside-to-outside view of a collapsed cave, open sky, rocky shore, a sandy beach, and the Pacific Ocean. The HDR image that opens this section is the same image that is described in the \"Rick's Quick Oregon Coast Photo Tips\" section.\n\nThis striking natural formation is about an eight-mile drive north of Newport along the Oregon Coast Highway. Look for the sign for Otter Crest, Otter Rock, and Devil's Punchbowl. Once you leave the highway, drive down the road for about a quarter mile to the parking lot on the right side. Park at the far end of the parking lot. The trail to the cave area is not marked. Walk past the end of the parking lot and look for a sign to the beach. Follow the path until you see a trail on the left that leads to the beach.\n\nBe sure to put on your waterproof boots, and then venture down the sandy and rocky\u2014and sometimes steep\u2014path to the beautiful beach. Once on the beach, walk to the left.\n\nWe know we have said it before, but check the tides and plan your visit if you'd like to venture inside the collapsed cave. If the tide is high, you won't be able to walk in. If you go in at low tide and spend too much time inside, it may be difficult or impossible to get out. Be alert to the danger of being trapped by an incoming tide. We plan our visits at low tide and usually spend less than an hour inside the cave area.\n\nYou'll need to be very careful as you journey to the center of the cave area. The algae-covered rocks are slippery and loose, so take your time.\n\nOnce inside the collapsed cave, you'll need to go to the very back of the cave to get the widest view for your photograph. Here you see some of our photo workshop students making pictures with their backs almost touching the cave wall. Conditions inside the cave area are always changing; sand can drift in or be pulled out by heavy seas.\n\nDon't want to go inside the cave area? That's okay. You can explore and photograph the rocky shore and numerous tide pools that are filled with sea life. Here, too, watch your step on the slippery rocks.\n\nWhile you're walking on the shore, take both wide-angle and close-up photos, like this close-up of a small jellyfish that Susan found.\n\nDevil's Punchbowl State Natural Area\n\nOtter Rock, OR 97369\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Use HDR:** Any time of day is a good time to photograph the inside of Devil's Punchbowl\u2014if you use HDR photography to see inside and outside the cave. This sunrise HDR image shows the \"window\" inside the cave that faces the Pacific Ocean. The opening photograph for this section was taken in the early morning.\n\n**Go super-wide:** For the widest, most dramatic photographs, you'll need an ultra wide-angle lens, such as a 14 mm or 15 mm lens. This photograph, as well as the opening photograph, was taken with a Canon 8-15 mm fish-eye lens set at 15 mm. The top photograph on page 129 was taken on the shore with a 14 mm lens.\n\n**Pack light:** We recommend packing light if you want to photograph inside the cave, because walking on the rocks is tricky and slippery. Pack a camera and one or two lenses in your backpack and carry your tripod. Once in position, set up your gear and let the photo fun begin.\n\n**Keep dry:** When photographing along the back wall of the cave, you'll need to keep your camera in a plastic camera bag to protect it from dripping water. You will also need a tripod if you want to do HDR photography.\n\n**Tell the story:** Before you leave the area, we recommend viewing and photographing the main attraction from above. Exit the parking area and go right to the Devil's Punchbowl viewpoint. This scene will give you, and those you share your pictures with, an idea of the size of Devil's Punchbowl, and your picture will help tell the story of your adventure. This topside viewpoint also offers great vistas of the coastline north and south. On a clear day, you might even see Yaquina Head Light in the distance.\n\nSeal Rock State Park\n\n### Seal Rock State Park\n\nSeal Rock State Park, about a five-mile stretch along the shore, has something in common with most of the other locations we have described in this book: it's a wonderful place to explore and photograph at any time of the day. The opening photograph for this section was taken about two hours after sunrise, and the closing photograph was taken just after sunset.\n\nYou'll find lots of birds at Sea Rock. If you're lucky, a few might fly into your shot or pose on the top of one of the rocks offshore. Tide pools are exposed at low tide, when sea stars and anemones can be found. At high tide you might be treated to some crashing waves to add drama to the distant rocks.\n\nFrom the parking lot, head toward the shore along a paved path. If you are there in the very late afternoon, look through the tall trees toward the ocean on your right. You might see a fairytale-like scene, like the one on the following page, which Susan took with an iPhone and then used LensFlare to enhance the starburst effect.\n\nBefore you head down to the shore, stop at the wooden lookout, enjoy the view, and take a shot. Then it's time to head down to the beach along the sandy and rocky path. Again, if you want to explore the tidal zone, you should wear waterproof boots.\n\nSeal Rock State Recreation Site\n\n10032 NW Pacific Coast Hwy.\n\nSeal Rock, OR 97376\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Don't dash off after sunset:** Hang around for an hour or so and make photographs like this one during what is called the blue hour. Use your tripod, ND filter, and a long exposure to create a dreamy effect on the water.\n\n**Be on the lookout for birds:** Take your wide-angle zoom for seascapes, but also take your telephoto zoom for bird photographs. Look for nice bird portraits as well as for photographs of birds on the move. When choosing your best photographs, choose the ones in which the birds have the best gestures.\n\n**Reflect:** Compose your pictures with the reflections in the foreground. Also, reflect on the beauty of the Oregon Coast, and how lucky you are to be there!\n\nOregon Coast Aquarium\n\n### Oregon Coast Aquarium\n\nThe Oregon Coast Aquarium is filled with wonders\u2014and dozens of different species of fish, marine mammals, marine invertebrates, and birds. This expertly managed facility showcases the marine life of the area, including photogenic puffins, jellyfish, and sea otters.\n\nFor kids of all ages, the walk-though Passages of the Deep exhibit makes you feel like you're swimming with the fishes\u2014including sharks. Photographers are welcome, but tripods are not.\n\nYou could spend a full day here visiting and photographing all the different exhibits; or, if you are like us, a two- or three-hour stay will be long enough to see the highlights and make some good pictures. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is easy to find. It is located off US 101 just south of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. Follow the signs.\n\nPuffins at the Oregon Coast Aquarium\n\nIn the wild, it's not easy to get close to puffins. Here at the aquarium it's simple. For our workshop participants, this exhibit is a highlight.\n\nA colony of puffins entertain guests in two open-air exhibits, complete with shallow pools and natural-looking rocky backgrounds. Both pools are close to the path, which makes the puffins easy to observe. Getting a sharp shot is harder\u2014these feathered subjects speed around their enclosure. We'll cover how to get a good shot in this section's Photo Tips.\n\nOregon Coast Aquarium\n\n2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 867-3474\n\naquarium.org\n\nPuffin\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Picture the puffins:** Puffins can move very, very fast. To stop the action of a fast-moving puffin, you'll need an SLR or a mirrorless camera. Use a shutter speed of about 1\/2000 of a second.\n\nTide pools at the Oregon Coast Aquarium\n\n**Try the tide pools:** If you compose your picture carefully, so there is no distracting background and there are no reflections from overhead lights, your inside tide pool pictures can look as if they were taken outside along the shore.\n\nYou'll need to compose very carefully and move around to achieve those goals, but as illustrated by this photograph, it's possible\u2014and good fun.\n\nJellyfish at the Oregon Coast Aquarium\n\n**Get gellin' with the jellyfish:** You won't want to miss the jellyfish exhibits. And you won't want to miss getting a good photograph of these alien-looking animals.\n\nDealing with reflections is your biggest challenge here. To reduce them, you have two options: 1) shoot close with a wide-angle lens, or 2) use a telephoto lens and move around so that you can't see any reflections from the other tanks in the area.\n\n### Foulweather Trawl\n\nOne man's trash is another man's treasure\u2014or a treasured photograph. On the Oregon Coast, Foulweather Trawl is a wonderful place to go on a treasure hunt and find photo treasures.\n\nThe close-up, abstract photograph below was taken on an old, rusting shipping container. It's an example of making photographs and looking for photographs\u2014not just taking photographs.\n\nHere's a boring shot of the shipping container where Rick found his rust pattern. See\u2014looking for photos works!\n\nHere's another example of making creative pictures. The picture on left is a compositional mess. But look what happened when Susan cut the clutter and used creative composition.\n\nFoulweather Trawl\n\n(541) 574-6424\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Use your small eyes:** Spend an hour or so here using what we call your small eyes, and you will leave with some fun and artistic images, such as these close-ups of colorful fishing lines.\n\n**Get permission:** Here are a few of my photo workshop participants making pictures at Foulweather Trawl during a workshop session. We had permission to photograph there. You, too, will need permission. Call the number listed above and ask for Sara.\n\n### Newport Stay and Eat\n\nLODGING\n\n**Shilo Inns Newport Oceanfront**\n\n536 SW Elizabeth St.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 265-7701\n\nBudget friendly and well located.\n\nHallmark Resort Hotel Newport\n\n744 SW Elizabeth St.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(855) 391-2484\n\nA bit expensive, but rooms are nice.\n\nFish tacos at Local Ocean Seafoods\n\nRESTAURANTS\n\n**Local Ocean Seafoods**\n\n213 SE Bay Blvd.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 574-7959\n\nGreat seafood and fish tacos. Busy and friendly.\n\nClearwater Restaurant\n\n325 SW Bay Blvd.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 272-5550\n\nGood food and bar with indoor and outdoor seating.\n\nThe view from Clearwater Restaurant\n\nGeorgie's Beachside Grill\n\n744 SW Elizabeth St.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 265-9800\n\nGood seafood with a great ocean view, attached to Hallmark Inn.\n\nCafe Stephanie\n\n411 NW Coast St.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 265-8082\n\nGood lunch place in the Nye Beach area.\n\nThe Deep End Cafe\n\n740 W Olive St.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 264-8672\n\nCasual dining close to Shilo Inn.\n\nRogue Ales & Spirits Brewer's on the Bay\n\n2320 SE Marine Science Dr.\n\nNewport, OR 97365\n\n(541) 819-0202\n\nA fun place to visit that offers typical bar food and a great beer menu.\n\nDutch Bros. Coffee\n\n822 SW Coast Hwy.\n\nNewport, OR 97366\n\n(541) 955-4700\n\nA drive-through chain with great coffee and friendly service.\n\nFLORENCE AND YACHATS\u2014\n\n## HOME BASE FOR THE SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST\n\nDramatic coastline favorites, including the most photographed lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, are easy drives from the seaside town of Florence. This is one of Oregon's most popular spots for traditional beach vacations; it includes long stretches of white sandy beach and mountain-like sand dunes. This area is favored by photographers seeking images of crashing waves, colorful tide pools, and a lighthouse that looks good\u2014and photographs well\u2014from many angles.\n\nA good place to start exploring is in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. You can spend a whole day here. There's a wonderful overlook with a wide view of the coast from above the Visitor Center. You'll also find thrilling water and wave sights at three spots not far from each other right on the coast: the Devil's Churn, the Spouting Horn, and Thor's Well.\n\nSome of the photo locations in this section of the central coast get crowded, like Heceta Head Light, while others are off the main circuit and you can have the place to yourself. Everything is pretty close together, so you can travel between locations to avoid the crowds and follow the best light.\n\nOur home base when photographing in the area is the town of Florence. It has a good mix of beaches, dunes, and a charming Old Town full of shops and restaurants. But if you want a smaller neighborhood with a 1960s vibe, you might like the little resort town of Yachats (pronounced ya-hots). It's not far from Florence and will also get you close to the best photo-shooting locations in the area. You choose!\n\nCape Perpetua Overlook\n\n### Cape Perpetua Overlook\n\nGet an awe-inspiring view of the coastline from the highest viewpoint accessible by car in the area. Drive up to the top of the Cape Perpetua headland and you'll have an eight-hundred-foot-high viewpoint. On a clear day you can see up to seventy miles of coastline. It looks good on both blue and gray days.\n\nThe trail starts just off the parking lot, and it is an easy hike. Just follow the signs to the rock shelter.\n\nTo find this location, look for the brown sign on US 101 for Cape Perpetua Day Use and Campground. It is about three miles south of Yachats and twenty-two miles north of Florence. Turn at the sign and take a left uphill when the road splits. Stay on the paved road up to the top to find the parking area and lookout.\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Pack a polarizer and use Dehaze:** On a clear day you can easily see Thor's Well from the lookout point. For the sharpest shot, use a polarizing filter and\/or the Dehaze tool in Photoshop or Lightroom.\n\n**Travel light:** If you want to truly enjoy the hike, travel light. Take your camera and one lens in the 24-105 mm range.\n\nDevil's Churn\n\n### Devil's Churn\n\nThree of the best photo opportunities\u2014and awesome sights\u2014in the Cape Perpetua area are close to one another on the coast. When you're driving south from Yachats, the first attraction you'll see is the Devil's Churn. This is a narrow and deep chasm probably formed by a collapsed lava tube. During high tide, incoming waves churn inside the inlet, making a big splash. You'll find a dedicated parking lot here, which can get full on busy days.\n\nFrom the parking lot, where there are restrooms, follow the signs to the trail leading to the churn. You can get good photos right from the trailhead, but if you walk down onto the rocks below, you'll get even better photos. When the tide is high, be careful of waves and water spray.\n\nDevil's Churn\n\nUS 101\n\nYachats, OR\n\n#### Photo Tip\n\n**Keep it clean:** Bring your lens-cleaning cloth to wipe salt spray off the front element of your lens . . . and off your glasses, if you wear them.\n\nThor's Well\n\n### Thor's Well and the Spouting Horn\n\nThor's Well is one of the most dramatic natural sites on the Oregon Coast\u2014one that any photographer will not want to miss, even if you have only an hour or so to spend there. This is the next must-see spot on the coast when driving south from the Devil's Churn.\n\nThe wave action here is unique: water entering a collapsed sea cave shoots up into the air and then recedes into the dark abyss. The natural formation is best seen and photographed at high tide, when waves sweep in and fall into the seemingly bottomless well, which is actually only about twenty feet deep. Again, wave action here can be dangerous. Take precautions and never prioritize a good photo over your safety.\n\nThor's Well shares the same rocky coastal location as another favorite attraction, the Spouting Horn. To find this blowhole, take the path toward Cook's Chasm and wait for a big incoming wave. If conditions are right, the water will shoot up like a giant saltwater fountain.\n\nThere is no entrance fee here; you can park on the side of US 101. The same parking area is used for Thor's Well and the Spouting Horn. After you park your car, walk down the stairs and then onto the sandy and rocky paths to the main attractions.\n\nAs opposed to the other pictures in this section, for the photo below Susan used a fast shutter speed to freeze the movement of the water. Try using both slow and fast shutter speeds, and choose the effect you like the best. Susan took this picture with her iPhone, which shows the awesome photo-capturing capability of a smartphone's camera.\n\nSpouting Horn\n\nThor's Well\n\n**Thor's Well**\n\nUS 101\n\nYachats, OR\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Safety first:** Our first photo tip is, again, to prioritize safety. Don't take chances and don't get too close.\n\nThat's our friend Mike \"Spike\" Ince photographing Thor's Well. He was being cautious, watching for forming sneaker waves, and so were we. Notice that his tripod is set up fairly high. That's the best position to see down into the well, as illustrated in the next photograph.\n\nThor's Well\n\n**Slow it down:** If you want to add a sense of motion to your still photograph, use a slow shutter speed, around 1\/4 of a second. That means you'll need a tripod to steady your camera during the long exposure.\n\nOn bright, sunny days, you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light entering your camera so you can use a slow shutter speed. You'll also need a plastic bag to protect your camera from the sea spray, and a lens-cleaning cloth to wipe water droplets and mist off your lens.\n\n**Or freeze the action:** Use a fast shutter speed on your SLR or mirrorless camera\u2014or shoot with your iPhone as Susan did for the photo on page 162\u2014to freeze the movement of the water. For this type of photo, shoot at the peak of action.\n\n**Zoom in and out:** Vary your zoom lens settings to tell the story of these dramatic natural formations.\n\n### Strawberry Hill\n\nStrawberry Hill, with its diversity of wildlife\u2014seals, sea stars, shorebirds\u2014combined with breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, is one of our favorite locations along the Oregon Coast. The area\u2014with its steep decent and ascent to the beach, combined with climbs on jagged rocks\u2014is also one of the more difficult areas to access. That being said, we usually spend two or three hours exploring this magical area . . . and have done so on each of our five Oregon Coast photo workshops.\n\nAs you drive along the Oregon Coast Highway (US 101), you'll need to keep your eyes peeled for the small sign that says Strawberry Hill. It's easy to miss. Strawberry Hill is one of four pull-offs in Neptune State Scenic Viewpoint.\n\nParking is fairly limited, so arrive early in the day. After parking your car, you may want to take a short break and enjoy the view while having a snack or a cup of coffee at one of several picnic tables. Once you are ready to go, put on your waterproof boots and carefully hike down the sandy and rocky path to the shore.\n\nTake note of the path you're walking down, as there are several paths down and up to the parking lot. Also check the tides. If you arrive at low tide and leave at high tide, your path may be obscured.\n\nSeals at Strawberry Hill\n\nOnce on the beach, we go left to look for seals. Strawberry Hill is not a zoo, but we have seen seals on every visit. The seals use the rocks as a resting spot, and we have often seen adult and young seals taking a nap together.\n\nYou may need to climb over some slippery rocks to get a good view. It's not impossible that you could slip, so keep your camera (and iPhone, binoculars, wallet, etc.) in a backpack until you are ready to photograph. We know someone who slipped into a tide pool and all her gear was ruined. Be careful.\n\nStrawberry Hill\n\nUS 101\n\nFlorence, OR\n\nAfter photographing the seals, we move to the right and explore all the nooks and crannies of the rocky areas. This is where you'll find sea stars and sea anemones attached to the rocks, exposed at low tide.\n\nHere are two of my friends, Steve Casey in the foreground and Gary Potts in the background, photographing at the same tide pool where I took the preceding photograph. Steve is wearing waders, which is a good idea for keeping your feet and legs dry if you want to explore deep tide pools. Gary is wearing knee-high rubber boots, which are recommended for shallow-water explorations.\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Tell a story:** You'll need a variety of lenses to tell the story of Strawberry Hill.\n\nThe beautiful sunflower sea star on the following page was photographed with a 15 mm fish-eye lens.\n\nThe opening seascape picture for this section was taken with a 16-35 mm lens set at 16 mm, while the seals were photographed with a 100-400 mm zoom lens set at 400 mm. The tide pool scene was photographed with a 16-35 mm lens set at 35 mm.\n\nFor seascape pictures with great depth of field (everything in focus), use a wide-angle lens (16 mm or 17 mm), select a small aperture (f\/11 or f\/16), and set the focus one-third into the scene.\n\nSunflower sea star at Strwaberry Hill\n\nFor telephoto shots, keep an eye on your shutter speeds, as telephoto lenses exaggerate camera shake. If you don't have a lens with an image stabilization or vibration reduction feature, don't use a shutter speed slower than the focal length of the lens. For example, don't use a shutter speed slower than 1\/200 of a second when using a 200 mm lens. With IS and VR lenses, you can use shutter speeds two, three, or more stops below that recommendation\u2014depending on the lens's IS or VR capability.\n\n**Pack a tripod:** In the photo of my friends Steve and Gary, both are using tripods to steady their cameras during long exposures. A tripod is needed when you're using a small aperture (which requires a slow shutter speed) for good depth of field.\n\nAnd speaking of tripods, our friend Alex Morley has a good suggestion: shower with your tripod. Sand and seawater are not a tripod's friend. After photographing in the surf, it's time to give your tripod a shower to keep it clean and working properly.\n\n**Look for and take fun shots:** We call this one _Dancing with the Stars_.\n\n**Create a sense of depth:** We love this picture by our friend John Van't Land. He shot from a low position, used a foreground element to add a sense of depth to the image, and achieved good depth of field by using a small aperture. Good job, John!\n\n_Photograph by John Van't Land_\n\nHeceta Head Light _Photograph by Steve Casey_\n\n### Heceta Head Light, Viewpoint, and Beach\n\nHeceta (pronounced ha-see-ta) Head Light, which is perched 200 feet above the ocean on a cliff (Heceta Head), is one of the most photographed lighthouses on the Oregon Coast. It's located just off the Oregon Coast Highway about thirteen miles north of Florence and thirteen miles south of Yachats, and it is part of Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint. It's a state park, so you'll need your park pass.\n\nWe've taken, and seen, many photographs from this location, but the opening image for this section is our favorite. It was taken by our friend Steve Casey.\n\nThe park's proximity to Florence and Yachats, combined with the beautiful views of the lighthouse from the shore and views of the shore from the light, make this destination a must-see and must-photograph for Oregon Coast road trippers.\n\nHeceta Head Light\n\nUS 101\n\nFlorence, OR\n\nHeceta Head Light\n\nIt's a relatively easy fifteen- to twenty-minute hike up the path to the lighthouse for a breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean with the lighthouse in the foreground. Whether it's sunny or foggy, you won't want to miss this view.\n\nOn your way up and down the path, stop and smell the roses. Enjoy the hike and the view, and take photographs along the way.\n\nAt low tide, the beach under Heceta Head Light is dotted with tide pools, which at sunset add to the beauty of the scene and make for dramatic photographs. If you plan to explore this area, waterproof boots are recommended.\n\n_Photograph by Bob Lloyd_\n\nAlong the beach you'll find seabirds looking for a snack. The birds are skittish, so bring your binoculars if you want close-up views. For full-frame shots like this one, pack your telephoto lens.\n\nWant a romantic getaway, or just want to be on-site for first light? You can book a room in the Keeper's House, a bed-and-breakfast in the lighthouse that is open all year. For information, call (541) 547-3696.\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Follow the sun:** We have found that the best time to photograph here is at sunset. It's not always sunny, but when the sun is shining, the views and photographs can be spectacular.\n\n**Pay attention to composition:** When photographing up on Heceta Head, place the lighthouse in the foreground to create a sense of place in your photograph. Also keep an eye on the horizon line, making sure that it is level in your picture.\n\nWhile you are photographing on the beach, use a foreground element to add a sense of depth to your photographs. Also, do what we call border patrol: run your eye around the edge of the image in your viewfinder, LCD monitor, or smartphone screen to make sure that what you want in the picture is included, and what you don't want is excluded.\n\n**Explore!:** Be on the lookout for the unusual. Someone took a lot of time to make a balancing rock display at the entrance to one of the caves. Framing the shot from behind the rocks gives this photo a unique, new age feel.\n\n**Capture the Instagram moment:** Travel photos that include people in dramatic outdoor locations are popular on social media. Make an Instagram-worthy shot on the Oregon Coast by including your travel buddies. This silhouette of our friends Mike and Alex makes the beach location come alive.\n\n**Always look back:** The Heceta Head Light is a commanding presence, but there are other photo subjects to explore. After photographing the lighthouse, caves, and waves, take a look back toward the highway. The rocky shore and highway bridge can look great in the golden light, especially if you capture their reflections in the wet sand.\n\nThink like a painter. Painting is additive, meaning that a painter adds elements to a canvas. Photography is subtractive. The photographer needs to subtract elements from a scene for a creative composition. Put another way: cut the clutter.\n\nAnd speaking of paintings, photo-painting apps, when used correctly and creatively, can turn seascape photos into beautiful painting-like images. On the following page, Rick used Topaz Impression to transform one of his sunset photos into a more artistic image.\n\nOld Town Florence\n\n### Old Town Florence\n\nPhotographers will enjoy the picturesque quality of Old Town Florence. You'll find lots of image-making potential in this waterfront location, as well as many restaurants. We recommend that you bring your camera to dinner so you can photograph the colorful shops, murals, and harbor attractions.\n\nThe Siuslaw River Bridge is a landmark of Old Town Florence. It has art deco styling and is reminiscent of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. That's because both structures were designed by the same architect, Conde B. McCullough.\n\nOld Town Florence\n\nBay Street\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n#### Photo Tip\n\n**Use a foreground element:** There is a good view of the river and bridge at the far end of Bay Street. Walk behind the Waterfront Depot Restaurant to gain access to the river's edge and use the old pilings as a foreground element.\n\n### Florence and Yachats Stay and Eat\n\nLODGING IN FLORENCE\n\n**Driftwood Shores Resort**\n\n88416 1st Ave.\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 997-8263\n\nGreat location right on the beach, with big rooms and a nice on-site restaurant.\n\nRESTAURANTS IN FLORENCE\n\n**Bridgewater Fish House and Zebra Bar**\n\n1297 Bay St.\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 997-1133\n\nLively bar and eatery featuring local seafood.\n\nCasual and colorful dining await in Old Town Florence\n\n1285 Restobar\n\n1285 Bay St.\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 902-8338\n\nCasual dinner spot with Italian flair.\n\n**Waterfront Depot Restaurant**\n\n1252 Bay St.\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 902-9100\n\nPopular dinner place overlooking Siuslaw River and its iconic bridge.\n\n**Surfside Restaurant at Driftwood Shores**\n\n88416 1st Ave.\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 997-8263\n\nOld-school decor and menu. Good views and fresh local seafood.\n\n**Fred Meyer**\n\n4701 US 101\n\nFlorence, OR 97439\n\n(541) 902-7300\n\nBig chain store with a good selection of deli and takeout items, as well as Peet's coffee.\n\nLODGING IN YACHATS\n\n**Adobe Resort**\n\n1555 US 101\n\nYachats, OR 97498\n\n(541) 547-3141\n\nBudget-friendly beachfront rooms, close to everything in town.\n\nRESTAURANTS IN YACHATS\n\n**Green Salmon**\n\n220 US 101\n\nYachats, OR 97498\n\n(541) 547-3077\n\nGroovy, healthy, busy. A great stop for breakfast, lunch, or coffee.\n\nVegetarian delights at the Green Salmon in Yachats\n\n**Luna Sea Fish House**\n\n153 US 101\n\nYachats, OR 97498\n\n(541) 547-4794\n\nLocal favorite for fish and chips. Seating is at picnic tables outside. Service is friendly.\n\n**Yachats Brewing & Farmstore**\n\n348 US 101\n\nYachats, OR 97498\n\n(541) 547-3884\n\nCozy and casual brewery with inspired local food. Many non-fish items. Great beer menu.\n\nBANDON\u2014\n\n## HOME BASE FOR THE SOUTHERN COAST\n\nEven the most experienced traveler will not be disappointed upon visiting Bandon. With stunning sea stacks rising up from the restless ocean, an iconic lighthouse, and a colorful Old Town, photographers count the town of Bandon and Bandon Beach as high points on their Oregon Coast photo road trip.\n\nFor us, Bandon marks the southern end of our recommended photographer's road trip. Yes, there is more of the coast to explore south of Bandon, but our itinerary features a road trip that you can complete in a week.\n\nBandon's feel marks a contrast with our starting point at Cannon Beach. Unlike the busy and crowded beach, Bandon is a quiet and restful town. That's welcome news for photographers. Plus, good food and lodging can be found in Bandon. This town is a destination for serious golfers and outdoor enthusiasts. On your stay, you will enjoy really good local seafood and coffee along with photographic wonders.\n\nOld Town Bandon\n\n### Old Town Bandon\n\nAll roads lead to Old Town Bandon, or at least close to it. It's a small town, just ten square blocks, with picturesque storefronts and a welcoming vibe. You'll find yourself here to pick up coffee after an early shoot, or to grab some fish tacos before heading to the beach for sunset.\n\nYou'll enjoy the street art around town, too. Washed Ashore has installed a collection of giant sea life sculptures made entirely of marine trash collected on the beaches. The art is beautiful, and its message is powerful. Visit washedashore.org for more information.\n\nThere are lots of friendly faces in Old Town\u2014including the cooks at Tony's Crab Shack, where you can even bring your own crabs for cookin'.\n\nBandon Beach\n\n### Bandon Beach\n\nThe beach at Bandon is open 24-7, year-round. The main attractions are the sea stacks that rise majestically out of the shoreline. The names of these Bandon Beach icons\u2014like the Howling Dog, Wizard's Hat, and Face Rock\u2014hint at their shapes, which are sure to visually inspire. Combine these formations, created by wave and wind erosion, with stunning skies, and you have the perfect location for a sunset walk or a sunset photo shoot . . . if the sun is shining.\n\nWe have seen breathtaking sunsets on the beach, but we have often encountered overcast days and even days when the fog was so thick it was hard to see all the sea stacks. Still, the experience of being on the beach, and witnessing the power of Mother Nature, is always awe-inspiring.\n\nTo be comfortable during a spring and summer beach visit, wear a rain jacket and rain hat\u2014just in case. During the winter, a warmer jacket and gloves will keep you toasty. And don't forget your waterproof boots.\n\nThere is public access to the beach, with stairs and parking, at the Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. We like to stay at Sunset Oceanfront Lodging so we don't have to drive and can just walk down the hotel steps (more than 140) to the beach. It is a steep climb. If you stay in one of the oceanfront units, you can take sunrise and sunset images from your room, which can be a nice perk in challenging weather.\n\nAs always when exploring areas on the Oregon Coast, we check the tide charts and plan our visit at low tide, which at Bandon is the time to photograph the sea stacks with the opportunity for beautiful reflections in the foreground.\n\nThe photograph below, taken by Alex Morley from the cliff above Bandon Beach, captures a seagull in flight and a view of the beach as high tide moves in. As you can see, high tide is not the time to walk around the sea stacks.\n\nBandon Beach _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\nLike horseback riding? Like photographing horses? You can arrange a ride or a photo shoot through Bandon Beach Riding Stables. We enjoy scheduling a photo shoot of a horse running on the beach for our Oregon Coast photo workshops. The light is always different, and each session has provided wonderful photo opportunities for our workshop participants.\n\nAnd now for something completely different. The photograph on the next page, taken by Susan Dimock at low tide on Bandon Beach in March 2018, shows the work of the interactive sand art master Denny Dyke, with detailing by Christine Moehring. This Bandon attraction began as a project of Denny's labyrinth ministry, called Sacred Journeys, and has become a magical, meditative walk enjoyed by locals and tourists of all ages. Walks begin in March and continue through the summer, typically ending the first week in October\u2014on very low tide days only.\n\n_Photograph by Susan Dimock_\n\n**Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint**\n\nBeach Loop Road\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Careful with the sun:** When photographing a sunset, use Live View and look at the scene on your camera's LCD monitor. If you look though the viewfinder at the bright sun, you could damage your eyes.\n\nTry composing a sunset shot with the sun just peeking out from behind a rock. This will reduce the contrast range in a scene and help you get a good exposure.\n\n**Stay up late:** Our friend Alex Morley took the picture on the following page of the Milky Way on Bandon Beach using a shutter speed of 1\/25 of a second. If it's a clear night, you could get a shot like this!\n\nMilky Way over Bandon Beach _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n**Capture the action:** Photographing horses running on the beach is fun! Use a fast shutter speed, at least 1\/500 of a second, to stop the action. For shots like this, use your telephoto zoom.\n\n**Set a goal:** This photograph of a horse and rider dashing toward Face Rock is the result of careful planning. We directed the rider to ride from right to left so that she was moving toward Face Rock. We used a wide-angle zoom to capture a wide scene. In this and the following photograph, notice how the elements are separated. When it comes to composition, separation is key.\n\n**Take behind-the-scenes shots:** Sure, it's fun to capture the action of a horse running on the beach, but don't forget to take behind-the-scenes shots of the fun (as you can see in the photo on the right)!\n\nCoquille River Light\n\n### Coquille River Light\n\nThe Coquille lighthouse, originally named the Bandon Light, is a must-see when you are in Bandon. It's part of Bullards Beach State Park, and is accessed from Bullards Beach Road off the Oregon Coast Highway.\n\nThe lighthouse is located at the mouth of the Coquille River, and it can be seen and photographed from several viewpoints. Get up close to the lighthouse at the main visitor area; you can use rocks and tall grasses as foreground elements in a photo.\n\nCoquille River Light\n\nIn the early-morning light, try shooting from the opposite side of the river along Jetty Road SW. Find a clearing overlooking the lighthouse as you drive toward Bandon South Jetty Park.\n\nYou can visit the outside area of the lighthouse all year round, but access to inside the building is limited, and the tower is no longer accessible. Best to call ahead if you want to see inside.\n\nIf you are careful and intrepid, you can climb down the rocks by the lighthouse for a cool view and a nice photograph. You will also find photo opportunities on paths that weave through the tall grasses on the surrounding sand dunes, and at a nearby pier.\n\n**Coquille River Lighthouse**\n\n56487 Bullards Beach Rd.\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-2209\n\nShore Acres State Park _Photograph by Alex Morley_\n\n### Shore Acres State Park\n\nShore Acres State Park is a photography treasure! It is not on the main highway\u2014you need to drive on a twisting road to get there, but it is worth the effort. The park is located in the Coos Bay area, about twenty-five miles north of Bandon. A former estate property, Shore Acres is now a wonderland featuring a dramatic rocky shore, unique sandstone cliffs, and dazzling flower gardens. It's a place where you can spend hours exploring and photographing\u2014and picnicking in the sun on wooden tables.\n\nThere is something very special about Shore Acres. It is said to be the best place for watching crashing waves in the winter, as illustrated by the opening picture for this section, taken by our friend Alex Morley.\n\nYou can start your visit in the gardens or on the rocky bluff. The bluff offers a walk along the top of the rocks and another walk along a sheer wall below. Our group usually begins our visit on the bluff, which offers a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean as well as countless close-up photo opportunities.\n\nHere is a shot of Susan making a close-up picture of the out-of-this-world landscape. If she had been wearing a space suit costume, she would look like she was on the moon!\n\nAfter exploring that area, we move to the wall, referred to by some as Minor White's Wall because the famed photographer Minor White brought his students here to practice composition\u2014which is the same reason we come here year after year.\n\nThe pair of images on the following page shows a section of the wall and a much tighter view of the same scene. Most people who look at the bottom image see the logo of the Seattle football team, a sea hawk. See what we mean about a photographer's wonderland!\n\nIf you like visiting and exploring gardens, you've come to the right place. Here you will find a formal garden, a Japanese-style garden with a lily pond, a rose garden, and more. Of course, different flowers bloom at different times of year, so you may want to call ahead or check the park's website to see what is in bloom.\n\nDue to the welcoming layout of the gardens, you can get close to the flowers for wonderful close-up photographs.\n\n**Shore Acres State Park**\n\n89039 Cape Arago Hwy.\n\nCoos Bay, OR 97420\n\n(541) 888-3732\n\n#### Photo Tips\n\n**Seek out patterns:** While exploring the sandstone area, look for and photograph patterns and formations that you recognize. On the left we see a humpback whale breaching, and on the right we see a wave pattern. What do you see?\n\n**Get up close:** Here is another creative close-up. We see a lion guarding the rock wall. The photo opportunities here are endless.\n\nWhen it comes to composition, dead center is deadly\u2014usually. But as you can see in the photo on the left, placing the subject in the center of the frame works perfectly. The picture on the right shows the subject off-center, which is usually\u2014though, again, not always\u2014a pleasing composition.\n\nOregon Dunes\n\n### Oregon Dunes and Overlook\n\nOcean waves are not the only waves on the Oregon Coast. Sand dunes dotted with sea grasses and featuring ever-changing windblown patterns are a big part of the coastal landscape.\n\nYou can find sand dunes in many locations up and down the coast. The Oregon Coast has more than forty miles of dunes, the largest expanse of coastal dunes in North America. We recommend a stop at the Oregon Dunes Overlook. It's right off US 101, about eleven miles south of Florence. A stop here to photograph the dunes will add variety to your coastal photo collection. There are great views of the dunes and the Pacific Ocean from an elevated deck. If you have time, you'll also find access to hiking trails that weave through the forest and dunes.\n\n**Oregon Dunes Overlook**\n\nUS 101\n\nGardiner, OR 97441\n\n#### Photo Tip\n\nCoastal scenes are a favorite among painters\u2014and photographers. Here Susan used one of her artistic apps, Glaze, to create this painting-like effect.\n\n### Bandon Stay and Eat\n\nLODGING\n\n**Sunset Oceanfront Lodging**\n\n1865 Beach Loop Rd.\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-2453\n\nBest place to stay for photographers, with private beach access overlooking Face Rock.\n\n**Best Western Inn at Face Rock**\n\n3225 Beach Loop Dr. SW\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-9441\n\nNewer property with comfortable rooms close to the beach.\n\nRESTAURANTS\n\n**Tony's Crab Shack**\n\n155 First St. SE\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-2875\n\nHighly recommended for lunch or dinner. Busy place with amazing food and outdoor seating.\n\nAn Oregon Coast classic: fish tacos. Great for lunch, dinner, or anytime. We love 'em at Tony's Crab Shack.\n\n**Lord Bennett's**\n\n1695 Beach Loop Dr. SW\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-3663\n\nExcellent seafood and good wine. Fine dining with ocean views. Next to Sunset Lodging.\n\nBandon Coffee Caf\u00e9\n\n365 Second St. SE\n\nBandon, OR 97411\n\n(541) 347-1144\n\nFriendly neighborhood spot. Great coffee, bagels, and breakfast sandwiches.\n\nON THE WAY\n\n**Pancake Mill Restaurant**\n\n2390 Tremont Ave.\n\nNorth Bend, OR 97459\n\n(541) 756-2751\n\nOn the way from Florence to Bandon. Good lunch stop and marvelous muffins to go.\n\nHomemade baked goods are just _one_ reason why the Pancake Mill Restaurant is always busy. It's worth the wait!\n\n## INDEX\n\nPage numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book. You can use your device's search function to locate particular terms in the text.\n\nPage numbers in _italics_ refer to captions.\n\n**A**\n\napps: photo-processing, , , , , , , __ ,\n\ntides, ,\n\ntravel, . _See also by name_\n\n**B**\n\nbackground, , , ,\n\nBandon, _, _, __\n\nBandon Beach, _, , , _, _\u2013203_\n\nbirds, , , , __ , \u201341, , , __\n\nborder patrol,\n\nboth ways,\n\nBrushstroke,\n\n**C**\n\nCail, Sarah, __\n\nCape Kiwanda, _, _, __\n\nCape Perpetua Overlook, _\u201354_\n\nCasey, Steve, , __ , , _,_\n\nclose-ups, , , , , , , , . _See also_ lenses, telephoto\n\ncomposition, , , , , ,\n\nCoos Bay,\n\nCoquille River Light, __ , _, _\n\nCrescent Beach, , _,_ , __\n\n**D**\n\nDehaze, , ,\n\ndepth, , , , , , ,\n\nDevil's Churn, _\u201359_\n\nDevil's Punchbowl, __ , _\u201331_\n\nDimock, Susan, , __\n\nDistressed FX, , \u201367, ,\n\ndory boats,\n\nDramatic Black & White,\n\nDyke, Denny,\n\n**E**\n\nEcola State Park, _\u201385_\n\n**F**\n\nFace Rock, __ , , , __\n\nfilters, neutral-density,\n\nfishermen, , __ , , __\n\nflowers, , _, _\n\nforeground element, , , , ,\n\nFort Stevens State Park,\n\nFoulweather Trawl, , __ , _\u201347_\n\n**G**\n\ngesture, ,\n\nGlaze,\n\n**H**\n\nHaystack Rock, _,_ , , _,_\n\nHDR, , , ,\n\nHeceta Head Light, __ , __ , _\u201376, _\n\nhighlights, ,\n\nhorse rider, \u201347, __ , __ , _,_ , _\u20133_\n\nHowling Dog, __ ,\n\nHug Point State Recreation Site, _, , _\n\n**I**\n\nInce, Mike \"Spike,\" _,_ , __ , __\n\nIndian Point,\n\n**J**\n\nJapanese-style garden,\n\njellyfish, __ , ,\n\n**L**\n\nLand, John Van't, , __ , , __\n\nlandscape photos, , ,\n\nlenses, telephoto, , , , , , . _See also_ lenses, zoom\n\nlenses, wide-angle, , , , , , , , , . _See also_ lenses, zoom\n\nlenses, zoom, , , , , , ,\n\nLensFlare, \u201363, ,\n\nlighthouses, , __ , , __ , , __ , , _\u201317_, _\u201376_, _, , \u201323_\n\nLloyd, Bob, __\n\nlook back,\n\n**M**\n\nMcCullough, Conde B.,\n\nMoehring, Christine,\n\nMorley, Alex, __ , , __ , __ , , __ , __ , , __ , _,_ , __ , _,_\n\nMorley, Dianne, __\n\n**N**\n\nND filter, , ,\n\nNeptune State Scenic Viewpoint,\n\nNik Software,\n\n**O**\n\nOar, Gerry, __ ,\n\nOregon Coast Aquarium, _\u201340, \u201343_\n\nOregon Coast Highway, ,\n\nOregon Dunes, _\u201320_\n\nOtter Crest,\n\nOtter Rock,\n\n**P**\n\npainting, ,\n\npanoramas,\n\npeople,\n\n_Peter Iredale_ , _,_ , _, _\n\nPhoto Wizard,\n\nPhotoshop, , , , , ,\n\npictures within pictures,\n\npolarizer,\n\nPotts, Gary, __ , ,\n\npuffins, _\u201341_\n\n**R**\n\nRoute 66,\n\n**S**\n\nSacred Journeys,\n\nsand, , , __ , , , _\u201320_\n\nsandstone, , __\n\nscale,\n\nsea lions, __ , __\n\nsea stars, _,_ , __ , __ , , , \u201370, _\u201373_\n\nSeal Rock, _\u201342_, _\u201336_\n\nseals, , , __ , , , _,_\n\nshaking the camera,\n\nShore Acres State Park, __ , _\u201317_\n\nshutter speed, , , , , ,\n\nsilhouette, ,\n\nSilver Efex Pro,\n\nSnapseed, \u201369, ,\n\nsneaker waves,\n\nSpouting Horn, __ , , __\n\nStofko, Alex, __\n\nstory,\n\nStrawberry Hill, __ , __ , _, _, _\u201373_\n\nSunset Oceanfront Lodging, , ,\n\nsuper-wide,\n\n**T**\n\nThor's Well, __ , __ , _\u201365_\n\ntide pools, , , , , , , _,_ , ,\n\nTides Near Me,\n\nTideTrac,\n\ntop-ten list,\n\nTopaz Impression,\n\ntripod, , , , ,\n\n**U**\n\nUS Highway , ,\n\n**V**\n\nverticals, , ,\n\n**W**\n\nWashed Ashore,\n\nWhite, Minor,\n\nWizard's Hat,\n\nworkshops, , , ,\n\n**Y**\n\nYaquina Bay, _, , _\n\nYaquina Bay Bridge, __\n\nYaquina Head Light, __ , _, \u201317, \u201323_\nCopyright \u00a9 2019 by Rick and Susan Sammon  \nForeword copyright \u00a9 2019 by Nick Page\n\nAll photographs by the authors unless otherwise indicated\n\nAll rights reserved\n\nFor information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, The Countryman Press, 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110\n\nFor information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact W. W. Norton Special Sales at specialsales@wwnorton.com or 800-233-4830\n\nBook design by Anna Reich  \nProduction manager: Devon Zahn\n\nLibrary of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available\n\nThe Countryman Press  \nwww.countrymanpress.com\n\nA division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.  \n500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110  \nwww.wwnorton.com\n\n978-1-68268-061-2 (pbk.)  \n978-1-68268-062-9 (ebk.)\n\n# Contents\n\n  1. Cover\n  2. Title\n  3. Contents\n  4. Acknowledgments\n  5. Preface: Oregon Coast Trip Tips\n  6. Foreword by Nick Page\n  7. Introduction: Why Do an Oregon Coast Photo Road Trip?\n  8. PART I. JUMP-START YOUR OREGON COAST PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE\n    1. Rick's Quick Oregon Coast Photo Tips--For Digital SLRs and Mirrorless Cameras\n    2. Susan's Photo Tips--For Smartphone Cameras\n  9. PART II. OREGON COAST ROAD TRIP\n    1. Cannon Beach--Home Base for the Northern Coast\n      1. Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock\n      2. Ecola State Park\n      3. Wreck of the Peter Iredale\n      4. Hug Point State Recreation Site\n      5. Cape Kiwanda\n      6. Cannon Beach Stay and Eat\n    2. Newport--Home Base for the North-Central Coast\n      1. Newport Harbor\n      2. Yaquina Bay Bridge\n      3. Yaquina Head Light\n      4. Devil's Punchbowl\n      5. Seal Rock State Park\n      6. Oregon Coast Aquarium\n      7. Foulweather Trawl\n      8. Newport Stay and Eat\n    3. Florence and Yachats--Home Base for the South-Central Coast\n      1. Cape Perpetua Lookout\n      2. Devil's Churn\n      3. Thor's Well and the Spouting Horn\n      4. Strawberry Hill\n      5. Heceta Head Light, Viewpoint, and Beach\n      6. Old Town Florence\n      7. Florence and Yachats Stay and Eat\n    4. Bandon--Home Base for the Southern Coast\n      1. Old Town Bandon\n      2. Bandon Beach\n      3. Coquille River Light\n      4. Shore Acres State Park\n      5. Oregon Dunes and Overlook\n      6. Bandon Stay and Eat\n  10. Index\n\n# Guide\n\n  1. 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Title\n\n# Page List\n\n  1. \n  2. \n  3. \n  4. \n  5. \n  6. \n  7. \n  8. \n  9. \n  10. \n  11. \n  12. \n  13. \n  14. \n  15. \n  16. \n  17. \n  18. \n  19. \n  20. \n  21. \n  22. \n  23. \n  24. \n  25. \n  26. \n  27. \n  28. \n  29. \n  30. \n  31. \n  32. \n  33. \n  34. \n  35. \n  36. \n  37. \n  38. \n  39. \n  40. \n  41. \n  42. \n  43. \n  44. \n  45. \n  46. \n  47. \n  48. \n  49. \n  50. \n  51. \n  52. \n  53. \n  54. \n  55. \n  56. \n  57. \n  58. \n  59. \n  60. \n  61. \n  62. \n  63. \n  64. \n  65. \n  66. \n  67. \n  68. \n  69. \n  70. \n  71. \n  72. \n  73. \n  74. \n  75. \n  76. \n  77. \n  78. \n  79. \n  80. \n  81. \n  82. \n  83. \n  84. \n  85. \n  86. \n  87. \n  88. \n  89. \n  90. \n  91. \n  92. \n  93. \n  94. \n  95. \n  96. \n  97. \n  98. \n  99. \n  100. \n  101. \n  102. \n  103. \n  104. \n  105. \n  106. \n  107. \n  108. \n  109. \n  110. \n  111. \n  112. \n  113. \n  114. \n  115. \n  116. \n  117. \n  118. \n  119. \n  120. \n  121. \n  122. \n  123. \n  124. \n  125. \n  126. \n  127. \n  128. \n  129. \n  130. \n  131. \n  132. \n  133. \n  134. \n  135. \n  136. \n  137. \n  138. \n  139. \n  140. \n  141. \n  142. \n  143. \n  144. \n  145. \n  146. \n  147. \n  148. \n  149. \n  150. \n  151. \n  152. \n  153. \n  154. \n  155. \n  156. \n  157. \n  158. \n  159. \n  160. \n  161. \n  162. \n  163. \n  164. \n  165. \n  166. \n  167. \n  168. \n  169. \n  170. \n  171. \n  172. \n  173. \n  174. \n  175. \n  176. \n  177. \n  178. \n  179. \n  180. \n  181. \n  182. \n  183. \n  184. \n  185. \n  186. \n  187. \n  188. \n  189. \n  190. \n  191. \n  192. \n  193. \n  194. \n  195. \n  196. \n  197. \n  198. \n  199. \n  200. \n  201. \n  202. \n  203. \n  204. \n  205. \n  206. \n  207. \n  208. \n  209. \n  210. \n  211. \n  212. \n  213. \n  214. \n  215. \n  216. \n  217. \n  218. \n  219. \n  220. \n  221. \n  222. \n  223.\n\n","meta":{"redpajama_set_name":"RedPajamaBook"}}
+{"text":"\n\n  |   \n---|---\n\n  |\n\n---|---  \nARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM\n\nFinds from Antiquity and highlights of Archaic art can be found in K\u00e9rkyra Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nBYZANTINE MUSEUM\n\nIcons perfectly presented in an old church in K\u00e9rkyra, with atmospheric religious music in the background Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nTHE ESPLANADE\n\nCaf\u00e9 after caf\u00e9 under K\u00e9rkyra's historical arcades. The place to see and be seen Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nMON REPOS\n\nThe castle near K\u00e9rkyra where Prince Philip was born Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nVASSIL\u00c1KIS\n\nThe best place in K\u00e9rkyra to taste Corfu's liqueurs and buy culinary souvenirs Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nWEEKLY MARKET\n\nThe colourful market in K\u00e9rkyra in the shade of the old fortress Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nCAVALIERI ROOF GARDEN\n\nA magnificent view from the hotel's roof over the town of K\u00e9rkyra, the island and across the sea to the mainland Map (see also)\n\n  |\n\nACH\u00cdLLION\n\nThis is where Empress Elisabeth ('Sisi') of Austria \u2013 and later, Emperor Wilhelm II \u2013 spent happy holidays in their own little castle with its glorious park (Photo) Map\n\n  |\n\nPALE\u00d3 PER\u00cdTHIA\n\nFine tavernas are breathing new life into the -charming ghost town below the peak of Pantokr\u00e1tor Map\n\n  |\n\nCANAL D'AMOUR\n\nAlthough really touristy, this stretch of the coast near Sid\u00e1ri is still a must (Photo) Map\n\n  |\n\nCAPE DR\u00c1STIS\n\nOne final highlight on Corfu's coast in the far north-west Map\n\n  |\n\nANGEL\u00d3KASTRO\n\nCorfu's answer to Rome's Castel Sant'Angelo: A natural phenomenon and -magnificent vantage point Map\n\n  |\n\nLAKE KOR\u00cdSSION\n\nHere, Corfu is not at its greenest but you will find miles of beach leading into high dunes \u2013 and all the solitude you want Map\n\n  |\n\nT\u00c1SSOS VILLAGE GRILL\n\nIn Mora\u00edtika: Much of the produce is home-grown or reared by the owners \u2013 a barbeque expert and his family Map\n\n  |\n\nKAISER'S THRONE\n\nSpectacular sunsets over Corfu's hilly landscape near P\u00e9lekas \u2013 just as -beautiful as when Emperor Wilhelm was here Map (see also)\n\n|    \n---|---\n  |   \n---|---\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Fresh and tasty\n\nThe Bellissimo Taverna is hidden away just a few yards off the Old Town's main shopping street. Three generations provide a friendly service and new delicacies every day\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Royal bay\n\nOnly a few visitors to Corfu know about the small bay in Mon Repos Park where royalty used to bathe\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Up high\n\nOnly a tiny sign in front of the Hotel Cavalieri draws attention to its roof garden with its enticing sundaes and cocktails high above the Old Town (Photo)\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n A room with a view\n\nThe Hotel Konstantino\u00fapolis, built in 1861, hardly stands out from the other buildings on the Old Harbour. But, you have a view all the way to Albania from its windows and balconies\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Relax in a lemon grove\n\nThe Lemon Garden in Achar\u00e1vi is the place to sit \u2013 central, but completely secluded \u2013 and enjoy a drink, cake or fine food surrounded by citrus trees\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Cheap and cheerful\n\nThe simple Hotel R\u00f3da Inn on the north coast provides superb value for money and the atmosphere is just great\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Lobster without frills\n\nThe Greg\u00f3ris Taverna is located off the beaten track above the usually deserted Astrak\u00e9ri Beach and serves lobsters at reasonable prices, prepared just the way the fishermen themselves like them\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Buddha on Corfu\n\nThe island's most unusual church can be found on the outskirts of N\u00edmfes \u2013 it looks like a Buddhist stupa\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Cruise the coast\n\nA small motorboat is moored at the end of the track to Cape Dr\u00e1stis and its skipper takes those who make their way here on short trips along the rocky coast\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Farm holidays\n\nAnna takes loving care of the Little Farmhouse's 4000 olive trees. If you rent her old stone house, you'll learn everything about olive cultivation and can enjoy the organic vegetables from her garden\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Magnificent garden\n\nYou will feel like you are in paradise if you stay in the Pension Sk\u00e1la in Param\u00f3nas with its wonderfully laid out gardens\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n A stroll in a park with temples\n\nA stroll under 150-year-old shady trees with a view of the Ionian Sea takes you past the remains of two ancient temples\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Hike across the island\n\nYou can hike across the island on the 200 km (125 mi) long Corfu Trail. You should be something of a trailblazer; the paths are not perfectly marked but there is always a village in sight on Corfu\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Riding for everyone\n\nSally-Ann Lewis used to be a cowgirl in Wyoming. Since 1992, she has been taking riders of all levels on two-hour trails through Corfu's olive groves and vineyards. Trailraiders' stables are near the village of \u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na\n\n  |   \n---|---  \n Keep fit\n\nThe Corfu Mountainbike Shop in Dassi\u00e1 offers everything a biker needs. The services offered by the MTB pros range from rentals to guided day tours and a complete Fly-&-Bike programme\n\n|    \n---|---\n\n####   Free culture\n\nRock festivals, jazz concerts, operas and concerts with traditional Corfiot orchestras \u2013 and all free of charge or for a token 1 cent fee! On no less than 30 evenings between early June and mid August the annual International Festival of Corfu bans boredom from the island\n\n####    Captivating views   (see also)\n\nOnassis would certainly have paid a fortune for such a view. The panoramic view from the Kan\u00f3ni lookout point near the town towards Mouse Island and the monastery island of Vlach\u00e9rna makes millionaires envious and captivates painters and artists. Some action comes into the picture when jets full of holiday-makers swoop down at eye-level before landing (Photo)\n\n####    Graffiti, graffiti everywhere\n\nOnce an insider tip for hippies, now a unique open-air museum for lovers of modern street art. More than a mile of concrete wall in the mountain village of P\u00e9lekas has been painted by international graffiti artists \u2013 and more works are welcome\n\n####    From pool to pool\n\nHow about a bit of pool-hopping? You can often swim in the pools at many smaller hotels even if you are not a guest \u2013 as long as you buy a drink at the bar. A change of scenery is always good\n\n####    Open invitation to night-owls\n\nNightlife in Corfu Town is not nearly as expensive as you might think. Very few of the venues in the popular clubbing district around the ferry terminal charge entry fees. Get ready to party the night away\n\n####    A table with a view \u2013 and a sunbed\n\nIf you choose to have lunch in the beautifully situated Pan\u00f3rama taverna in Petr\u00edti you can indulge in a further luxury free of charge after an excellent meal \u2013 namely the use of sunbeds on the beach nearby\n\n####   Watch out \u2013 keep your head down!\n\nThe Corfiots celebrate Easter in their own very special way. On Easter Saturday hundreds of clay water jugs are thrown out of windows and from balconies onto the streets in the Old Town. Thousands watch this spectacle that follows the magnificent Easter procession\n\n####   Little oranges are big business   (see also >>(1) | >>(2))\n\nThe bitter fruit of the cumquat tree has become a new trademark of the island. Try them yourself! Liqueurs, jams, sweets and many other goodies can be found in the shop run by the Vassil\u00e1kis family in the town or its sales rooms at Ach\u00edllion (Photo)\n\n####   A lifetime working with olive wood\n\nOlive trees provide fruit and oil as well as a unique kind of wood that demands great skill from carvers. For decades Thom\u00e1s has been one of the best and has devoted himself to this craft in his 'Atelier by Tom' in the Old Town\n\n####   Moments of contemplation\n\nLinger for a while in Corfu's most important church \u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas and experience the locals' religious tradition first hand. There is a continuous stream of Corfiots who kiss the icons, pay homage to the relics of the patron saint of the island and kneel in prayer, as many feel this is the place \u2013 between paintings, icons and the silver sarcophagus of St. Spir\u00eddon \u2013 where heaven and earth meet\n\n####   Fish in the Garden of Eden\n\nCorfiots love lush gardens and a fish soup called _bourd\u00e9tto_ made with scorpion fish. In Alon\u00e1ki Taverna near Chalik\u00fanas you can enjoy the best of both \u2013 a version of the traditional dish made to a particularly tasty recipe, served in beautiful surroundings\n\n####   In perfect harmony\n\nDance like Zorba the Greek! Thanks to the blockbuster film of the same name, the _sirt\u00e1ki_ has become synonymous with Greek dancing. You can delight in watching professional dancers perform on the terrace at the _Golden Beach_ bar and actually give it a try yourself!\n\n####   Look the monster in the eye\n\nA visit to the _Archaeological Museum_ will show just how gifted Corfu's sculptors were 2600 years ago. The terrifyingly grotesque face of the Gorgo is a real masterpiece (Photo)\n\n####   Shopping under the arcades\n\nThe arcades of the main shopping streets in the Old Town, especially Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki, protect shoppers from the scorching heat and downpours\n\n####   Jewellery with a personal touch\n\nShells that you find while walking along a beach can be transformed into lovely pieces of jewellery. Corfu's natural jewels can be cast in gold, silver or bronze at the \u00cdlios Centre in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n\n\n####   Just go under   (see also)\n\nIf you really want to get the better of the rain, just go under water. On board the Calypso Star you can look through the large window in the hull at the undersea world\n\n####   Olive-oil soap\n\nTake a trip 150 years back in time in the Pato\u00fanis soap factory. A warm welcome awaits visitors to the production facilities and storerooms where you can take all the pictures you want and buy at reasonable prices. Saturday is the best day to visit \u2013 that is when the soap is boiled\n\n####   Lean back and enjoy a rainy day\n\nThere's no such thing as a black cloud in the Ey Lounge. It's even a favourite place for friends to meet for breakfast; at lunchtime you can soak up the local atmosphere as it fills with the business crowd and in the evenings the lounge launches you straight into that perfect night out clubbing!\n\n####   Let yourself be pampered\n\nThe spa area in the St. George's Bay Country Club & Spa is one of the newest on the island. It is designed like a Corfiot village with its unique country-house architecture\n\n####   A spot of cricket\n\nStop by for a few overs and spend a relaxing Sunday afternoon in the _Caf\u00e9 on the Esplanade_ in K\u00e9rkyra sipping a cocktail while watching the locals bat and bowl on the well-kept pitch \u2013 just like being at home\n\n####   Take the boat to P\u00e1xos\n\nSail away from the mainland, let the sea breeze blow in your face and leave the steering to someone else. Take a relaxing boat trip to Corfu's sister island, P\u00e1xos (Photo). Ships depart for the little isle from K\u00e9rkyra, Messongi-Mora\u00edtika and K\u00e1vos\n\n####   Down on the farm\n\nIf you want to be far from the madding crowd then you'll enjoy your stay with Anna Polychroni\u00e1dou. The organic farmer's holiday let is simply called 'Little Farmhouse' where you can watch the donkeys and collect your eggs for breakfast from the chicken coop\n\n####   Zen as a way of life\n\nYou'll feel like you are in a Buddhist Zen monastery in the Corfu Meditation House. Day guests are also welcome to come and meditate in Zen-Do and its garden\n\n####   Awash with orchids\n\nThe romantically inclined will love the British Cemetery. In spring and autumn, this fairy-tale oasis is a mass of wild orchids flowering among the gravestones\n\n### Photo: Kalam\u00e1ki Beach\n\n---\n\nThe plane starts its descent where the Adriatic merges into the Ionian Sea. The first small Greek islands welcome you from below. Then Corfu rises up out of the sea. In the north, the narrow sandy beaches are bordered by an impressive, steep coastline; further south, wide bays are fringed with broad sandy beaches. The island (population 112,000 inhabitants) is the most northerly and, with its 611 sq km (236 sq mi), the second largest in the Ionian Sea.\n\nThe plane descends even lower, glides over a dense carpet of olive groves interspersed with the sharp tops of cypresses. Centuries-old villages dream below, hidden away on the hillsides, mountain slopes and in the small valleys. We fly on over the island's capital where we get a clear view of the harbour and the two Venetian castles that form the boundary of the Old Town. The high mountains on the Greek and Albanian mainland soar up on the other side of the strait. A radio beacon at Lefk\u00edmi lets the pilot know it is time to turn and the final descent begins. He soon sinks below the ridges of the green hills on the coast and appears to almost brush the villages along the shoreline. It looks like the plane is going to land on the water but it sets down accurately on the runway that was built in a lagoon.\n\nThe Corfu experience begins! K\u00e9rkyra \u2013 the name the Greeks use for the town and the whole island \u2013 is just a short walk from the airport. The path leads us along the promenade towards the Old Fortress, one of the five Venetian castles on the island. The green expanse of the Esplanade opens out in front of its entrance. The British gave free rein to their eccentricity: they placed a water tank in the shape of an ancient temple at one end and an imposing palace for their island administrator at the other. There is a statue of one of them \u2013 wearing a Roman toga \u2013 in front of it.\n\n### Empress 'Sisi' built it as a holiday home, Kaiser Wilhelm II loved it: Villa Ach\u00edllion\n\n---\n\n# Pavement caf\u00e9s under shady arcades\n\nThe French, who controlled the island for a short time before the British, were more sensible: they left a row of pavement caf\u00e9s under the shady arcades behind them. That is where the old Corfiots like to sip their Greek coffee, while the younger ones prefer iced coffee. This is a real hotspot in the early evening when the Corfiots celebrate their traditional _volta_ \u2013 promenading back and forth in front of the caf\u00e9s to see and be seen. There is more activity on the broad, marble-paved streets between the Esplanade and Old Harbour with all their enticing shops under the arcades. There are many more shops in the former Jewish area in the Old Town, Evraiki, while the largest district Cambi\u00e9llo is entirely residential.\n\nK\u00e9rkyra is a perfect year-round destination for a city trip. However, there are hardly any other cultural attractions anywhere else on the island. On the one hand, there has been little excavation activity because the ancient settlements are now the sites of modern housing and, on the other, its position on the periphery of ancient Greece made it less important.\n\nOnly when the Venetians took over control of the island in 1386 did Corfu gain in status. The new rulers used it principally as a provider of olive oil, which was used for lighting at that time, and did all they could to promote the cultivation of olive trees. The Corfiots have the Venetians to thank for never coming under Turkish dominance. There is absolutely no Turkish or oriental influence on Corfu. That also makes the island quite different: there are no mosques as there are elsewhere in Greece. Corfiot folk music lacks the oriental touch of the Aegean and the Ionian Islands \u2013 with Corfu as the main one \u2013 as it also followed its own individual artistic path.\n\nThe summer holidaymakers are mainly interested in the beaches. The island is surrounded by them and there is such a great variety that everybody can find that perfect dream beach. Those on the east coast facing the mainland, where most of the large seaside hotels are located, are mostly of shingles or smooth pebbles, often several hundred metres long and always fairly narrow. Many of the hotels directly on the beach offset this by providing lush, green lawns around the pool, tavernas place deckchairs in their flowery gardens and hang hammocks between the trees. Wooden jetties jut out into the protected bays of the straits. This is where the sun worshipers lie, before climbing down ladders into the water. Some are used as water-sport centres. The east coast is perfect for waterskiing, paragliding and for paddle boats \u2013 however, surfers will be rather disappointed. This area, with its gently sloping beaches, is ideal for families with children. The bathing shoes that can be bought in any supermarket increase the pleasure even more.\n\n### K\u00e9rkyra's squares: Laid-back meeting places with a not an historical background\n\n---\n\n# The west coast has a great variety of beaches\n\nThe north coast is better suited for those who like long, wide beaches. The tavernas and lounge bars make a stopover on long strolls along the beach even more enjoyable. It is especially worth visiting them at sunset when the fiery ball sinks into the sea somewhere between the last Greek island of Othon\u00ed and the Albanian mainland.\n\nCorfu's west coast facing the open sea offers the greatest variety of beaches. They begin at Cape Dr\u00e1stis in the far northwest where the brave climb into the water from white rocks and, if the sea is completely calm, swim out along the white sandstone cliffs. Near Perul\u00e1des, steps lead down from the steep coast to the long, narrow sandy beach stretching under the cliffs. The golden crescents of sand in the bays of \u00c1gios St\u00e9fanos and \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n are miles long while most of the 20+ beaches on the fragmented Paleokastritsa Bay are hidden away and can only be reached by boat.\n\nSome large hotels have opened on the few beaches in the middle of the west coast: in Glif\u00e1da, P\u00e9lekas and \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis. It then becomes more secluded. The beach at the northern spit between the sea and Lake Chalik\u00fanas is almost completely deserted and the few bathers to the southwest of the lake lose themselves in the expansive, Sahara-like dunes of \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Argir\u00e1don. In the extreme south, a noisy counterpoint is provided by K\u00e1vos with its narrow strips of sand where there is an all-day party and plenty of close contact on the beach.\n\n# Where Greek hospitality is still very much alive\n\nNo matter how attractive the beaches are: the interior of the island is just as beautiful and varied. Many narrow, rollercoaster-like paths lead uphill and down dale to fresh lookout points. If you leave the beaches, you will come across many small villages that are hardly ever visited by tourists and where you can still experience traditional Greek hospitality. One of the last nuns in the convent near Lefk\u00edmi might even invite you to a cup of Greek coffee that they \u2013 like many other Corfiots \u2013 perk up with a shot of ouzo. When you visit a church, the sacristan will often give you a piece of blessed bread without being asked; in a fish tavern in B\u00fakari, you can pick your own dessert from the fruit trees in the garden. These are gestures of human warmth that the Corfiots also appreciate receiving from their visitors. In this way, your holiday will be full of happy memories.\n\n  734 BC\n\nWith the founding of a -colony by the Greek city of Corinth, Corfu becomes part of the world of -classical Greece\n\n  229 BC\n\nCorfu is the first Greek town to submit to the rule of the up-and-coming world power Rome\n\n  395\u20131204 AD\n\nEast-Roman Byzantine -period; Corfu ruled from Constantinople\n\n  1386\n\nThe Venetians take over Corfu that develops into one of its most im-portant possessions in the Mediterranean and -resists two Turkish con-quest campaigns in the 16th century\n\n  1453\n\nThe Byzantine Empire collapses; the Turks control all of Greece \u2013 with the exception of the Ionian Islands\n\n  1797\u20131864\n\nNapoleon occupies the Ionian Islands that subsequently gain independence under Russian and Turkish protection. In 1807, French again; 1809, British; and, after 1815, an independent republic under the protection of Great Britain\n\n  1864\n\nThe Ionian Islands become part of free Greece\n\n  1941\u20131944\n\nItalian and German occupation\n\n  1967\u20131974\n\nMilitary dictatorship followed by emergence of democracy\n\n  2002\n\nThe euro replaces the drachma as the national currency\n\n  2004\n\nThe Olympic Games are held in Athens\n\n  2010\n\nGreece can only be saved from national bankruptcy through financial aid from the European Union and the International Monetary Fund. Drastic tax increases, pension and salary cuts, as well as an increase in the age of retirement, are intended to reduce the national debt\n\n## Hellas Sirt\u00e1ki\n\nTraditional dancing boom For a long time, sirt\u00e1ki was only danced by the locals at traditional festivities. Now, arms are spread and off they go on other occasions. On several evenings of the week there is live music in the _Luna d'argento_ where professional dancers show you the right steps _(Ano Korakiana,www.lunacorfu.com)_. The _Alios_ group is one of the local star acts and they also give lessons _(www.alios-corfu.com)_. Classical sirt\u00e1ki is performed on the terrace of the   Golden Beach Bar. After the experts, the audience joins in _(on Mora\u00edtika Beach,www.goldenbeach.com)_. The film 'Zorba the Greek' made the dance world famous \u2013 and Jane Fonda and Anthony Quinn, who danced it in Tripa, true film stars _(on the village square in Kinopi\u00e1stes,www.tripas.gr)_.\n\n## Past and present\n\n  Corfu swings the bat In the 19th century, the British brought cricket to Corfu. After they left, interest died down but there has been a revival in recent years. The young Corfiots now increasingly pick up the bat and ball. On Sunday afternoons, bats are swung on the neatly trimmed grass pitch in K\u00e9rkyra \u2013 you can watch the pros and amateurs in comfort from the _Caf\u00e9 on the Esplanade_. Enthusiastic players will explain the rules to you over a chat in the shade. Cricket tournaments do not take place in the sweltering summer months. There was even a _Cricket Festival (festival.cricket.gr_) on the island in 2010. The sporting event is planned to be held annually and is organised by the _Hellenic Cricket Foundation_ that also has its headquarters on Corfu _(www.cricket.gr)_.\n\n## Fresh and organic\n\nSelf-sufficient Corfu has now recognised that home-made tastes best. The _Etrusco Restaurant_ uses fresh products from its own garden as much as possible. In 2010, the renowned chef Ettore Botrini laid out his garden and planted the ingredients for his Etrusco Salad together with fresh herbs and flowers, as well as for dishes with intriguing names like 'lamb with sweet garlic and cumquats'. Don't miss the home-made sausages and salami _(K\u00e1to Koraki\u00e1na,www.etrusco.gr, photo)._ Kostas and Agathi Vlassi also use products from their own farm. Fresh eggs and bread baked in a wood-fired oven are served at breakfast in their _Hotel Restaurant Bioporos_ and there are authentic dishes cooked using traditional recipes for lunch and dinner. All of the products from their 10-acre farm are organic _(near Vrakaniotika,www.bioporos.gr)._\n\n## New sensations\n\nWalking on water Waterskiing is old hat. The sporty no longer need a boat to pull them across the water on skis. The Aqua Striders invented by Niko Gatsios make this possible. With these special, air-filled skis, the adventurous can glide across the water at speeds of between 5 and 10 km\/h \u2013 with no help at all from an outboard motor. Poles similar to those used for skiing with buoys at the end, or simple paddles, help you keep your balance. You can try out this sports innovation which caused a sensation at the _International Exhibition of Inventions_ , at the _Corfu Ski Club_ at the _Hotel Daphnila Bay Thalasso (Dassi\u00e1)_ and at _Dassi\u00e1 Beach._\n\n### Photo: Rocky coast at Paleokastr\u00edtsa\n\n---\n\n# AG\u00cdA, \u00c1GIOS, \u00c1GII\n\nYou will come across the three little words _ag\u00eda, \u00e1gios_ and _\u00e1gii_ all over the island. They form part of the names of villages and churches, as well as fishing boats and ferries. _Ag\u00eda_ is a female saint, _\u00e1gios_ a male saint and _\u00e1gii_ the plural form. If this is preceded by _mon\u00ed_ (monastery), the genitive form is used ( _\u00e1gias, \u00e1giou_ and _\u00e1gion_ ). The Mother of God is worthy of a special title; she is the _Panag\u00eda_ \u2013 the 'all holy'.\n\n# BUILDING BOOM\n\nOne of the disconcerting characteristics of Corfu are the many unfinished buildings. There are two main reasons for this: the Greeks have long mistrusted their banks and the stability of their currency \u2013 not just since the financial crisis \u2013 and therefore invest their savings in property. However, there is often not enough cash to finish building in one go and work is only carried out as long as the money lasts. In addition, many Greeks still feel obliged to at least give their children a flat when they marry. Plans are made when the children are still young, or even before their birth \u2013 that way, there is enough time to save for extensions to the family home.\n\n# BYZANTIUM\n\nHistorians usually refer to the Byzantine era when talking about Greece in the Middle Ages. It almost exactly coincides with the medieval period and began with Emperor Justinian in the 6th century and ended with the Turkish conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Constantinople \u2013 today's Istanbul \u2013 was the capital of the empire that once spread from the Straits of Gibraltar to well into the Middle East and North Africa. Corfu was also part of it until the beginning of the 13th century.\n\n### Harmonious forms: The Byzantine church \u00c1gios J\u00e1son ke Soss\u00edpatros in K\u00e9rkyra\n\n---\n\n# DROPPING OUT OR ADOPTING A NEW LIFESTYLE\n\nAfter a holiday on Corfu, many people dream of settling permanently on the island. Currently, around 900 Brits live here and many other nationalities. As long as the foreigners spend money and don't try to open up a shop or pub, they are welcomed by the Corfiots. If they try to compete with the locals, they can count on regular official inspections and even damage to their property. Only those who are really innovative and provide something that is completely new have a chance of being accepted.\n\n# FAUNA\n\nDogs and cats are the animals you will most often encounter on Corfu. Wild mammals have become rare. You are more likely to see dead foxes, martens, hedgehogs and weasels on the roadside than live ones. The bird world is more varied with orioles, hoopoes, jays, small owls, swallows and swifts. Buzzards and falcons are sometimes spotted in secluded mountain regions and herons can be found on the low-lying coasts.\n\nThe only poisonous snake you might come across on a hike is the sand adder, but there are several non-poisonous ones including the Montpelier snake and various whip snakes. There are many tortoises and hardly any scorpions. In the early summer glow-worms cast their light. Overfishing has depleted the sea but you might spot some dolphins if you are lucky.\n\n# FLAGS\n\nA second flag is often hoisted in front of churches along with the white-and-blue Greek national flag. This is the official flag of the Greek Orthodox Church and shows the black, Byzantine double-eagle on a yellow background.\n\n# HOLIDAYS\n\nThe Greek summer holidays last from the middle of June to mid-September. August is the main holiday month and hardly any Greeks stay at home between 1 and 20 August. They almost all flock to the seashore, a lot of them to the islands. That is also when many Italians spend their holidays here and it is difficult to find accommodation during this period without booking in advance.\n\n# ICONS\n\nIcons are panel paintings of the Orthodox Church showing saints and Biblical scenes. They can be found in all houses of worship as well as in cars, buses, shops, restaurants and homes. In addition to the classical icons that are common all over the former Byzantine region, those paintings influenced by Italian art which resemble western religious painting are also called icons and can be found in many of Corfu's churches and museums. Believers honour them as they do any other icon although they lack the criteria for being considered genuine icons (such as an inscription and the lack of a central perspective).\n\nEven today, a classical icon painter has very little freedom and has to observe ancient rules. Imagination and artistic creativity are not asked for \u2013 only his talents as a craftsman. This results in many icons resembling each other regardless of when they were painted.\n\nAll icons are regarded as 'gates to heaven'. They bring the presence of a saint into the home. His eyes, which almost always look straight at the observer, create the access that makes it possible for the spirit of the believer to unite with that of the depicted. That is why icons are treated with such respect. They are kissed and decorated with all sorts of different precious metals, fitted with curtains or draped in valuable materials, incorporated in decorative timepieces and carried in processions around the church, through the village, across fields and through olive groves.\n\n# KAM\u00c1KIA\n\nWomen travelling alone will not stay that way for long on Corfu. The _kam\u00e1kia_ (literally: 'harpoons') take care of that. They are always fashionably dressed with a gold chain on their half-bared chest and can start up a conversation in almost any language. Many of them work as waiters or souvenir dealers. However, in their defence, it must be said that some _kam\u00e1ki_ have ended up marrying one of their holiday acquaintances.\n\n# KIOSKS\n\nKiosks \u2013 in Greek, the singular noun _per\u00edptero_ is used \u2013 can be found on every square in K\u00e9rkyra as well as in the villages and at many major crossroads. They are usually open from early in the morning to late at night and offer everything you need in a hurry or forget to buy when the shops were open: newspapers, cigarettes, sweets, batteries and telephone cards, toothbrushes and combs, single aspirin tablets, condoms and much more.\n\n# KOMBOL\u00d3I\n\nMany Greeks \u2013 and that includes the Corfiots \u2013 always have a _kombol\u00f3i_ , a string of beads similar to a rosary, with them. It has no religious significance but is merely seen as a way of passing the time or as a lucky charm. The Greeks probably adopted it from the Islamic prayer beads.\n\n# LOTTERY TICKET SELLERS\n\nLottery ticket sellers are just as much part of everyday life on Corfu as priests and kiosks. There are two kinds of tickets: scratch cards where you win immediately and tickets for the national lottery whose winning numbers are drawn on Monday evenings. With a bit of luck your numbers may come up and pay for your holiday!\n\n# ORGANIC FARMERS AND OLIVE GROVES\n\nThere are actually many farmers on Corfu who would like to produce organic goods with better prospects for sales and higher prices \u2013 especially for wine and olive oil. However, the hurdles are too high as it is difficult for them to keep the minimum distance from the fields and groves of 'chemical farmers' and there is only one press on the island that processes organically grown olives. At least, extensive insecticide spraying from the air has been stopped so that each farmer can decide on the fertilizers and chemicals he wants to have on his property.\n\nJust how intensive olive cultivation is on Corfu becomes clear in the interior of the island. There, the roads wind through ancient olive groves where the sunlight is filtered through the dense tops of the gnarled trees. Black nets are often spread out on the ground or rolled in the forks of the trees and increase the feeling of being in a dark, enchanted forest. They catch the falling olives between November and March that the farmers and their, usually Albanian, workers collect several times a week and take to the olive presses.\n\n# POLITICAL PARTIES\n\nGreece's political landscape is dominated by two major parties: the social-democratic _Pas\u00f3k_ led by Ge\u00f3rgios Papandr\u00e9ou \u2013 which won the last election in 2009 \u2013 and the conservative _N\u00e9a Dimokratia_. Both share the main responsibility for Greece's financial crisis. In order to keep their supporters happy, they created superfluous positions and token jobs in the civil service over decades that will be a burden on the state pension finances for years to come. The smaller parties in the 300-seat Greek parliament are the Communists _KKE_ , the left alliance _SYRIZA_ , and the right-populist _LAOS_. At the last election _Pas\u00f3k_ received 43.38 percent, the _N\u00e9a Dimokratia_ 32.83 and the _KKE_ 11.95 percent of the votes cast on Corfu.\n\n# RELIGION\n\nAlmost all Corfiots profess their belief in Greek-Orthodox Christianity. Other religions are considered heretic and simply belonging to them blocks the path to heaven. Many holidaymakers remark on the large number of churches and small chapels. The altar is always located in the east behind an iconostasis, a wall of icons. It separates the altar room, which can only be entered by the priests and deacons, from the rest of the church. Believers light candles in front of the icons on the iconostasis and other walls. A constant stream of people come and go throughout the Orthodox service that can last for more than two hours.\n\nYou will see Orthodox priests (Greek: _papp\u00e1des_ , singular _papp\u00e1s_ ) wherever you go on Corfu. They wear long, dark robes and a black headdress \u2013 often with a braid peeking out from under it. If nature has its way, they are always long-haired and sport a full beard. Before being ordained, priests may marry and often have large families. They augment their state salary with fees for weddings and baptisms. Church taxes are unknown here. Some are farmers or run a taverna or other small business on the side.\n\nThe schism, the official church division, in 1054 came as a result of many dogmatic differences. According to the Orthodox Church, the Holy Ghost derives solely from God the Father while the Pope proclaimed that this was equally so with the Father and the Son (Filioque controversy).\n\n# WARS\n\nIn the past century, Greece suffered more from war than many other European countries: 1904\u201308, in the war against Bulgaria; 1912\u201322, the First and Second Balkan Wars, World War I and the anti-Turkish campaign in Asia Minor and, finally, 1940\u201349, World War II and the Civil War.\n\nDuring the latter, the Communists and conservatives \u2013 supported by the British \u2013 confronted each other, even though both had previously fought side by side against the Germans as partisans. There are memorials to the fallen all over Corfu where the names of those who died in all these wars are listed; the soldier cemeteries also bear witness to Serbian and French fatalities.\n\nRocky coast at Paleokastr\u00edtsa\n\nGlobalisation has also not overlooked this small island. Foreigners have always played an important role in determining Corfu's destiny, formerly as rulers with the Corfiots as their helpers. Now life is changing on Corfu. The olive harvest would be impossible without day labourers from Albania and there would be even more fish in the sea without the help of fishermen from the Nile Delta. Many houses would remain unbuilt and many hotel rooms uncleaned without Bulgarian and Romanian muscle power. In former times only Romani people made their way through the villages with their laden-down carts. Today people from Southeast Asia in Korean cars complement this with electronic goods and Africans specialise in illicitly pressed CDs and DVDs. Even the evening entertainment would be less interesting without foreigners. Many hotels and beach bars hire multi-lingual Czechs and Hungarians for their animation programmes.\n\n### Tourism has unfortunately made the Greek menu less varied. Many visitors order the same things: moussak\u00e1, souvl\u00e1ki, tzaziki and a Greek salad. More interesting dishes have almost no chance on Corfu \u2013 and that is why they are hardly ever available in the summer months.\n\nPlay a role in protecting genuine Greek cooking by trying dishes you don't know. You don't have to go as far as lamb's head _(kefal\u00e1kia)_ or sheep's testicles _(amel\u00e9ttia)._ Most of the restaurants have menus in several languages and many innkeepers now show photos of their dishes. However, they will usually look different on your plate because the pictures were taken in a studio.\n\nIn traditional restaurants, you can see a variety of prepared dishes kept warm, and refrigerated showcases with raw meat waiting to be grilled. It used to be normal to take a look in the pot in many Greek restaurants but this is only rarely permitted nowadays. You always choose your fresh fish from the refrigerator and it is then prepared to your liking.\n\nGreeks love to have a great number of plates, with many different dishes, on the table at a time. They hardly ever go out alone in the evening and a cheerful round of diners, _par\u00e9a,_ is just as important as the culinary delights. The _par\u00e9a_ orders many different dishes and they are all placed in the middle of the table. Everybody takes what \u2013 and as much as \u2013 they want. Fish and meat are usually served on large platters and everybody helps themselves. Usually, more is ordered than can be eaten. It is considered a disgrace if everything is eaten up because it shows that, obviously, too little was ordered. All the plates, even the empty ones, are left on the table. The waiters don't take any away so that the _par\u00e9a_ can see how well they dined.\n\nYou can eat at any time. Most of the restaurants that don't only live from tourism are open all day. An English breakfast is often served from 10am and the main meals can be taken any time between 11am and midnight. Only occasionally do some restaurants close between 4 and 6pm. There is usually a _cover charge_ of between 20 cents and 3 euros that includes serviettes and bread. You cannot refuse to pay this.\n\nSnack bars _psistari\u00e1_ are a good alternative to restaurants for a quick bite. You can order chicken or pork _g\u00fdros_ in _pita_ bread or on a plate _(m\u00e9rida)_ , meatballs, local sausage and \u2013 quite often \u2013 chicken. Chips are omnipresent. You can find pizzerias in most of the holiday resorts, while other speciality restaurants are rare. But there are a few Chinese and Italian hostelries and many English pubs with genuine pub grub such as _steak & kidney pie_ and _ploughman's lunch._\n\nThose with a sweet tooth will make their way to the _z\u00e1charoplast\u00edo_ , the Greek pastry shop, with its mainly oriental specialities such as _baklav\u00e1s_ and _kata\u00edfi_ ('angel's hair') along with cream and sponge cakes. In addition to plain and simple water, you will often find wine from the barrel, and good restaurants usually have a wide variety of bottled wines \u2013 and an increasing number of organic wines. _R\u00e9tsina_ , white wine flavoured with resin, is quite cheap and is popular in simple tavernas. The national alcoholic drink is _o\u00fazo,_ an aniseed schnapps that turns white when you add water to it. _Metax\u00e1_ brandy comes in various qualities \u2013 three, five and even seven stars \u2013 and is a good way to end a meal.\n\nThe Corfiot speciality   _tzitzimb\u00edrra_ is a non-alcoholic drink made of lemon juice, sugar, water and a touch of ginger. You can sample this from the beginning of May in villages such as Sokr\u00e1ki in the north of the island. It almost disappeared in the early 1990s but the demand created by the holidaymakers led to the traditional drink remaining on the market. If you order it, you are helping to preserve a tradition \u2013 and it is very tasty.\n\nThe Greeks drink coffee at any time of the day. However, ordering it in Greece is something of a science. You have the choice between a small cup of Greek coffee, _kaf\u00e9 ellenik\u00f3_ , hot instant coffee, usually called _ness sest\u00f3_ , cold, whipped instant coffee served with ice cubes, _frapp\u00e9_ , and the trendy _freddo_ as either cappuccino or espresso. If you order Greek coffee, you must always say how sweet you want it because the ground coffee is mixed with sugar and then brewed: _sk\u00e9tto_ is without, _m\u00e9trio_ with a little and _glik\u00f3_ with a lot of sugar. And, of course, Greek coffee is always without milk. If you want to have your hot or cold Nescafe with milk you just have to add _m\u00e4 gala_. On Corfu, the older people like to put a small shot of ouzo in their coffee and order _kaf\u00e9 elliniko m\u00e4 poli \u00faso m\u00e4ssa._\n\n### Always busy: the caf\u00e9s under K\u00e9rkyra's arcades\n\n---\n\n  **bakalj\u00e1ros me skordalj\u00e1** \u2013 dried hake served with a potato-garlic puree\n\n  **bekri mez\u00e9** \u2013 pork stewed in red wine\n\n  **bourd\u00e9to** \u2013 Corfiot fish or (sometimes) meat dish in a light, spicy sauce. As a starter, usually prepared with _gal\u00e9o_ (houndshark), or with _-sk\u00f3rpios_ (scorpion fish) or _pastan\u00e1ka_ (stingray) as a main course\n\n  **bri\u00e1m** \u2013 a kind of ratatouille\n\n  **ch\u00e9lia** \u2013 eel, grilled or in aspic: a Corfiot speciality (order in advance)\n\n  **g\u00f3pes** \u2013 grilled or fried sardines, -often served as a snack\n\n  **juv\u00e9tsi** \u2013 noodle gratin with beef -(occasionally, with lamb)\n\n  **kokor\u00e9tsi** \u2013 grilled offal wrapped in natural skin\n\n  **mar\u00eddes** \u2013 crisp, fried anchovies -eaten head and all\n\n  **noubo\u00falo** \u2013 speciality from the -northwest of the island: lightly smoked pork (starter)\n\n  **pastits\u00e1da** \u2013 beef and chicken with noodles\n\n  **pats\u00e1ria** \u2013 beetroot; cold as a salad or warm as a vegetable dish\n\n  **sofr\u00edto** \u2013 beef, marinated in garlic and vinegar and braised in wine\n\n  **spanak\u00f3pitta** \u2013 puff pastry filled with spinach (photo)\n\n  **stif\u00e1do** \u2013 beef or rabbit stew in a -tomato-cinnamon sauce\n\n  **t\u00e1ramosal\u00e1ta** \u2013 red puree of -potatoes, soaked bread and fish roe (starter)\n\n  **tir\u00f3pitta** \u2013 puff pastry filled with cheese\n\n  **tzizimbirra** \u2013 lemonade with a touch of ginger\n\nYou will find T-shirts with various sayings and motifs ironed on them everywhere. With the exception of gold and silver jewellery, hand-painted icons, ceramics, leather and some antiques, more sophisticated souvenirs are rare.\n\nMost of the better shops are located in the town of Corfu where the locals also like to shop. However, they are more on the lookout for the latest fashions from Athens and Italy than Corfiot products. The Corfiots prefer to buy in boutiques, with a smaller range of quality goods, than in normal chain stores. Looking for a bargain? Then you should keep your eyes open during the first 20 days of August with the summer sales and discounts of up to 70%.\n\n_Opening hours:_ Shops are usually open from 8.30am to 2pm from Monday to Friday and from 6pm to 9pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Most supermarkets and souvenir shops are open from 8.30am to 11pm. You can buy last minute souvenirs in the departure hall of the airport \u2013 open round the clock.\n\n# ARTS & CRAFTS\n\nObjects carved out of olive wood are really special: bowls, cups, salad servers, as well as small pieces of furniture such as stools and tables. You can find them in several shops in the Old Town of Corfu and in mountain villages including Makr\u00e1des, L\u00e1kones and Strin\u00edlas as well as the beach resort Achar\u00e1vi. The best place to buy artistic glassware for your home is in \u00c1gios St\u00e9fanos Avliot\u00f3n or in the Old Town of Corfu where there are also several antique shops.\n\n# CULINARY TREATS\n\nIf you want something really typical of the island, take some home-grown Corfiot products home with you. You can buy them at weekly markets, in private houses and _kafen\u00eda_ , the small village shops and at roadside stands. In some places, you can buy thyme honey directly from the beekeeper. The best place to buy herbs from the island mountains is in Makr\u00e1des.\n\n# CUMQUATS\n\n  Cumquats \u2013 little oranges, a maximum of 4 cm long, with a yellowy-orange skin \u2013 are a unique island speciality. The vitamin-rich citrus fruit is made into marmalade and liquor or sold as candied fruit. The latest trend is a newly-created eau de toilette with a fruity, tangy cumquat aroma.\n\n# MUSIC\n\nMany souvenir shops sell CDs with Greek music \u00e0 la Alexis Zorba at reasonable prices \u2013 although no Greek would ever buy them. If you are looking for good recordings of up-to-date Greek music of any kind, you should visit the special shops in the island's capital where you will get good advice and be able to listen to the music. Greeks often buy illicitly pressed CDs from hawkers \u2013 most of them from sub-Saharan Africa. They are illegal and you have no way of checking their quality.\n\n# OLIVE OIL\n\nPure olive oil from Corfu tastes even better if you know which grove it has come from. However, the health standards now in force mean that you should only buy it in cans. Another delicious Corfiot speciality is olive paste \u2013 great as a dip or spread on bread. The olive-oil soap produced on the island can also be recommended.\n\n# WINE, LIQUEURS & SPIRITS\n\nYou can taste Corfiot wines, liqueurs and spirits in cellars and distilleries, as well as roadside booths before you buy them. However, it is usually difficult to transport wine.\n\n### 180 km (112 mi). Time: 5 hours.\n\n### Detailed map of the route in the Road Atlas\n\n# K\u00c9RKYRA \u2013 'ONE OF THE FAIREST OF THEM ALL'\n\nStart your tour in   **_K\u00e9rkyra_**. The Greek beauty queen, which combines a touch of Venetian elegance with British eccentricity, lies on the coast and looks up to the high mountains. It invites you to shop, visit its churches and museums and any number of caf\u00e9s, tavernas and restaurants.\n\n# VIEW FROM THE HIGHEST PEAK OF THE ISLAND\n\nIf you decide not to go for the refreshing waters of the seaside resorts near Corfu Town such as **_Kontok\u00e1li_** , **_Gouvi\u00e1_** and   **_Dassi\u00e1_** that stretch out as far as the foot of the **_Pantokr\u00e1tor_** mountain range, drive from **_P\u00edrgi_** via **_Spartilas_** to **_Strinilas_**. After a short stop in the small tavern under an ancient elm tree, the route takes you up a twisting road with hairpin bends to the peak of   **_Pantokr\u00e1tor_** (photo) at a height of 906 m (2972 ft). Drivers should have a good head for heights when trying to turn round!\n\n# DISCOVER THE NORTH COAST\n\nStarting in   **_Achar\u00e1vi_** , drive along the north coast to **_Sid\u00e1ri_** and   **_Cape Dr\u00e1stis_**. The view along the chalk cliffs is just as fantastic as the one out to sea where the tiny Diapontine Islands form stepping stones on the way to Italy.\n\n# DREAM BEACHES & PRIME OLIVE OIL\n\nEnjoy a dip in the water from one of the long sandy beaches which are still devoid of large hotels, before continuing your tour. The narrow beach in **_Perul\u00e1des_** is drawn out along the steep coast; near **_\u00c1gios St\u00e9fanos_** it widens to as much as 100 m and runs for miles. When you stroll through   **_Afi\u00f3nas_**, the view of the bay of **_Arill\u00e1s_** in the north and the wonderful sandy beach of **_\u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgio Pag\u00f3ns_** in the south will make you feel like you are on a sky-walk. Before you carry on your journey, you should sample the excellent olive oil that can be found here.\n\n# SURREAL CASTLES & HEAVENLY VISTAS\n\nThe   **_Angel\u00f3kastro_** hovers like an ethereal castle high above the sea, and the terraces of the caf\u00e9s and tavernas in **_L\u00e1kones_** resemble heavenly balconies from which there is a wonderful view down to the olive trees and cypresses on **_Paleokastr\u00edtsa_**. For many Corfiots, this is the most beautiful place on earth.\n\n# GET YOUR BREATH BACK AGAIN IN THE COUNTRYSIDE\n\nLush **_R\u00f3pa Valley_** gives you the chance to catch your breath after all the bends and ups and downs of the road. You will probably reach the former hippie village   **_P\u00e9lekas_**, high above the valley, at just the right time \u2013 sunset. Let the day end here. Stroll to your hotel for the night or drive the short distance back to   **_K\u00e9rkyra_**, just 13 km (8.1 mi) away.\n\n# FOLLOW IN THE -FOOTSTEPS OF TWO -ROYAL FIGURES\n\nYou will get the most out of Empress Elisabeth (Sisi)'s famous little castle   **_Ach\u00edllion_** (photo), where Emperor Wilhelm II also stayed, if you get up a bit earlier than usual and are there when it opens. When the crowds from the cruise ships arrive, you will already be in   **_Lefk\u00edmi_** in the south with the islands most beautiful river port.\n\n# HIGH DUNES, A BIG LAKE AND A LONG BEACH\n\nYou will find a magnificent dune landscape near   **_\u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Argir\u00e1don_** with Corfu's largest stretch of inland water behind it,   **_Lake Kor\u00edssion_**. The beach at its northern spit runs for miles and is almost deserted; the single taverna above the tiny port in **_Alon\u00e1ki_** is probably the best and cosiest in the entire area. The centuries-old olive groves along the coastal road to **_Param\u00f3nas_** and   **_Pend\u00e1ti_**, with its panorama snack bar, are like an enchanted forest, and now you only have to drive back to town to finish your tour.\n\n### Photo: The Old Town of K\u00e9rkyra\n\n---\n\n##   HIGHLIGHTS\n\n  **WHERE TO START?**\n\nTo reach the central **EsplanadeMap Corfu [E\u2013F 3\u20135]**, go up to **Pl\u00e1tia G. Theot\u00f3kou** (Sarocco Square) from the long-distance bus terminal. This is also the terminus for busses to the nearby beaches. The **Od\u00f3s G. Theot\u00f3ki** that makes its way as **Od\u00f3s Voulgar\u00e9os** through the Old Town will lead you to the open square between the **Old Fortress** , **Old Palace** and **Ionian Academy**. It is best to park your car at the **Old Harbour** (the Esplanade car park is often full) and then walk.\n\n##   Map\n\n### The town of Corfu (Greek: _K\u00e9rkyra_ ) Road Atlas [127 E5\u20136] is different from other Greek cities. Its architecture shows that the island was never Turkish but Venetian for 400 years and British for another 50. Corfu (population: 28,000) only became Greek again in 1864.\n\nTwo castles, the Old and New Fortresses, protected the Venetians and Greeks against a Turkish invasion for centuries. The Old Town, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2007, lies between these two forts \u2013 its most beautiful section is the residential area of _Cambi\u00e9llo_. There, four and five-storey buildings, often with penthouses perched precariously on their roofs, line the confusing labyrinth of streets with flapping laundry hung out to dry in the wind. Cats and dogs wander around and the bricks of the repeatedly repaired walls show behind the flaking plaster. An old archway can be seen here and there, with some houses decorated with pretty reliefs and small statues.\n\nThe most pleasant time to stroll through this district is early on Sunday morning when the bells are ringing and the Byzantine chant can be heard coming from the churches. The people on this island are real fans of classical music and sometimes you will hear Roman-Catholic church music coming from a tape or CD \u2013 that doesn't happen anywhere else in Greece!\n\nThe commercial area of the Old Town extends to the south and southwest of Cambi\u00e9llo. Rows of shops line the wide streets with their marble paving \u2013 very slippery when wet \u2013 and shady arcades that often lead into small squares; but the town's main 'living room' is the broad Esplanade in front of the Old Fortress with caf\u00e9 after caf\u00e9. The Old Town is surrounded by modern housing areas. They are not the concrete jungles you often find in other parts of Greece; their avenues and arcades give them an almost aristocratic air. The roofs are often tiled and gardens provide breathing space between the houses.\n\nYou should visit K\u00e9rkyra at least twice \u2013 once in the morning to stroll through the market and shopping district and visit the museums, churches and forts; and a second time in the late afternoon to promenade along the Esplanade, sit in a caf\u00e9 and, later on, have dinner, like the Greeks, in a taverna in the Old Town. And there is no alternative at all to the island's capital if you want to go on a club or disco tour!\n\nIf you come by car, you will find parking near the Old Town at the Old Harbour _(1.50 euros\/day)_ and the Esplanade _(2 euros\/day)._ You can rent a horse-drawn carriage in front of the Schulenberg Memorial on the Esplanade \u2013 or, during the day, at the Old Harbour \u2013 for your city tour _(approx. 30 euros\/30 min)._\n\n    | Archaeological Museum    \n---|---\n\nMasterpieces of early Greek art\n\n  | Byzantine Museum    \n---|---\n\nPriceless icons exhibited in an old church building\n\n  | The Esplanade    \n---|---\n\nA beautiful open space with many pavement caf\u00e9s\n\n  | Mon Repos    \n---|---\n\nA small castle in an overgrown park\n\n  | Old Fortress Caf\u00e9    \n---|---\n\nCool design and tasty snacks in the historic fortress\n\n  | Vassil\u00e1kis    \n---|---\n\nCorfiot liqueurs and spirits\n\n  | Weekly Market    \n---|---\n\nHeld in the moat of the Old Fortress\n\n  | Cavalieri Roof Garden    \n---|---\n\nAn evening spent above the roofs of the town\n\n  | Bella Venezia    \n---|---\n\nAffordable hotel with historical flair\n\n  | Ach\u00edllion    \n---|---\n\nGerman-Austrian fairy-tale castle high above the sea with a magnificent garden\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n## OLD FORTRESS\n\nMap Corfu [C5\u20136] | Google Map)\n\nThe Byzantines and Venetians considered the rocky peninsula, with its two approximately 60 m-high hills in the east of the Old Town, the perfect place to build a fort. Until the 16th century, K\u00e9rkyra lay within its walls. The fort was protected on the land side by a moat, the _Contrafossa_ , cut deep into the stone. Small fishing boats lie at anchor here and there are corrugated-iron huts that are used as weekend cottages and sheds on its fringe. There is a small exhibition of beautiful early-Christian mosaics from the Pale\u00f3polis Basilica in the gatehouse.\n\nThe most impressive building was erected by the British; it is St. George's Church (usually closed) with a fa\u00e7ade modelled on a Doric temple. You have an unsurpassed view over the whole town from the front   peak of the peninsula. _April\u2013Oct: Mon 1.30\u20138pm, Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20138pm, at other times: Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 4 euros (combined ticket, see p. 115), after that, free to 2am \u2013 without access to the peak_\n\n### The Old Fortress withstood many sieges; today, it is the symbol of K\u00e9rkyra\n\n---\n\n## OLD PALACE\n\nMap Corfu [F2]\n\nThe English had the largest building on the island constructed in classicistic style on the northern edge of the esplanade between 1819 and 1823 for the Lord High Commissioner of the islands. The sandstone used came from Malta, which the British had also appropriated. The Order of Saint George and Saint Michael that had recently been founded for officers who had rendered outstanding service on Malta and the Ionian Islands had its seat in this palace. Today, only a few rooms are open to the public but they give an idea of the splendour in which the British High Commissioner lived in the 19th century. _April\u2013Oct: Mon 1.30\u20138pm, Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20138pm; at other times: Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 3 euros (combined ticket, see p. 115) | Esplanade_\n\n##   ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM\n\nMap Corfu [B6]\n\nMost of the finds in the museum come from the ancient town of K\u00e9rkyra. The most valuable objects are the remains of two temple gables. The Archaic _G\u00f3rgo Gable_ dates from around 590 BC and had the function of keeping evil forces from the temple. From the front, it shows the kneeling Gorgon Medusa with her terrifying face, the sight of which turned the enemy to stone. The late-Archaic gable from around 510 BC shows figures from Greek mythology in profile. We can see the God of wine, Dionysus, his son, Oinopion lying naked behind him, as well as a lion, a fragment of a dog and large wine 'kraters', a clay drinking vessel with two handles. The God Hephaestus, who made Dionysus drunk so that he could abduct him to the home of the Gods on Mount Olympus, was shown on the other half; unfortunately, this has not survived.\n\nThe early-Archaic statue of a reclining lion from around 630 BC is even older than the two gables and gives a clear impression of how Greek art attempted to free itself from the stiff, stylised form of its oriental models. _Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 3 euros (combined ticket, see p. 115) | Od\u00f3s Wra\u00edla 1_\n\n### The gables in the Archaeological Museum tell a story of their own\n\n---\n\n## ARTEMIS TEMPLE\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nUnfortunately, there is little to see of the remains of the most important temple in ancient K\u00e9rkyra that were discovered in 1812. In spite of that, archaeologists determined that the temple had been built around 590 BC, was 48 m long and 22 m wide and that the main hall was formed of 48, more than 6 m high, columns. Only the 2.70 m wide and 25.4 m long sacrificial altar was well preserved. The first scientific excavations were made by the German classical scholar Wilhelm D\u00f6rpfeld with great support from Emperor Wilhelm II. _Admission free. Located in front of the walls of the \u00c1gii Theod\u00f3ri Monastery, access is from the Pale\u00f3polis Basilica over the Od\u00f3s Derpfeld, continue left on the tarmac road after the first fork | City bus to Kan\u00f3ni, Pale\u00f3polis stop_\n\n## PALE\u00d3POLIS BASILICA\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nTowards the end of the 5th century, the early Christians on Corfu built a church with five naves on top of the, still recognis-able, remains of a small Roman music theatre, an 'Odeon', and traces can still be seen in the ground. Its floor was originally decorated with magnificent mosaics and some lovely fragments have been preserved in the exhibition rooms in the Old Fortress. The impressive walls come from a small, Gothic church from the Venetian period that included Antique elements. _Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission free | Opposite the entrance to the Mon Repos Castle Park | City bus to Kan\u00f3ni, Pale\u00f3polis stop_\n\n## BANKNOTE MUSEUM\n\nMap Corfu [E3] | Google Map)\n\nThe small, private museum in the Ionian Bank building displays banknotes from many countries and times and \u2013 intriguingly \u2013 even tells you how to make them! _April\u2013Sept: Wed and Fri 9am\u20132pm and 5.30\u20138.30pm, Thur 9am\u20133pm, Sat\/Sun 8.30am\u20133pm, at other times: Wed\u2013Sun 8am\u20133pm | Admission free | Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki_\n\n |\n\n## BRITISH CEMETERY\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nMap Corfu [A\u2013B6]\n\nThe cemetery with its colonial tombstones seems like an enchanted park and it is not only a romantic place but also a great attraction for flower-lovers in spring and autumn with its many wild orchids. _Daily, from sunrise to sunset | Od\u00f3s Kolokotr\u00f3ni 25_\n\n##   BYZANTINE MUSEUM\n\nMap Corfu [D1]\n\nMore than 100 valuable icons from the 15th\u201318th centuries from Corfiot houses of worship have found a dignified new home in the _Panag\u00eda Antivuni\u00f3tissa_ Church in the Old Town. Soft Byzantine music can be heard in the background while you make your visit. Of the stories these icons tell, two are especially noteworthy. The fourth icon on the left after the cash desk shows St. George on a horse with a young boy holding a teapot and cup sitting behind him. Pirates had abducted him and made him their cupbearer. In her sorrow, his mother turned to St. George who brought her son back to her. The icon to the left of the west portal is a work by the famous Cretan painter Micha\u00edl Dam\u00e1skinos from around 1752 in the so-called Cretan style, showing Saints S\u00e9rgios, B\u00e1kchos and Justini. It is felt that they were responsible for the Christian fleet defeating the Turks on their feast day, 7 October, in 1571. They are shown standing on a decapitated three-headed monster symbolising the Turkish fleet. _Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 2 euros (combined ticket, see p. 115) | Steps lead up from the Od\u00f3s Arsen\u00edu_\n\n##   THE ESPLANADE\n\nMap Corfu [E\u2013F 3\u20135] | Google Map)\n\nThe broad expanse of the Esplanade fulfils the function of the _plat\u00eda_ (square) in other Greek cities: it is the centre of all social life, the site of the _v\u00f3lta_ \u2013 the traditional promenade held every evening \u2013 and occasional military parades; it is a meeting place for young and old, for the locals and holidaymakers. The Venetians created it in the 17th century. Until then, the houses in the town reached all the way to the Old Fortress. The army had them torn down to have the unrestricted possibility to open fire in the case of a siege. Later, this green area was used as a parade ground but today cricket is played on the grass. There is a fountain in the shady park. One of the monuments erected here commemorates the unification of the Ionian Islands with free Greece in 1864. It shows seven bronze reliefs with symbols of the seven main islands. Corfu is represented by the ship of the Phaeacians, the legendary people that \u2013 according to Homer \u2013 lived on Corfu and brought Odysseus back to his homeland of Ithaca by ship.\n\nThe west side of the Esplanade is flanked by tall, 19th-century houses that are still used for their original purpose today. It is lovely to sit in the little armchairs in one of the caf\u00e9s under their arcades or _liston_ \u2013 although it is quite pricey.\n\n### The Esplanade in K\u00e9rkyra is atmospheric in the evening\n\n---\n\n## FALIR\u00c1KI (\u00c1GIOS NIK\u00d3LAS GATE)\n\nMap Corfu [F1] | Google Map)\n\nToday, the lovely building with the small St. Nicholas Chapel on a peninsula north of the Old Fortress is an ideal place to relax on the waterfront with a drink or have a delicious meal. In the 19th century, this was where those travelling by the steam and sailing-ships anchored at the docks, which was often where emigrants departed for America, went on board or disembarked. _Usually 8pm\u20132am (as long as the bars are open) | Free access from Od\u00f3s Arsen\u00edu_\n\n## CEMETERY CHURCH\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6]\n\nThree valuable icons by the Cretan painter Michail Dam\u00e1skinos from the late 16th century hang in the church of the town's main cemetery that was built in 1840. They show Christ as the high priest, Maria and Saint Anthony. _Daily 7.30am\u20135.30pm | Anem\u00f3milos district, entrance from Od\u00f3s Anap\u00e1seos_\n\n## K\u00c1NONI, VLACH\u00c9RNA MONASTERY AND PONTIKON\u00cdSSI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nThe lookout point at the tip of the An\u00e1lipsis Peninsula takes its name from a canon from the Napoleonic era. The   view to the two little islands off the coast, Vlach\u00e9rna and Pontikon\u00edssi, is the epitome of the Corfiot picture postcard. Vlach\u00e9rna can be reached over a small sea wall and is almost entirely taken up by the monastery that was built around 1700 \u2013 now no longer in use. A boat sets out from the sea wall to the 'Mouse Island' (the translation of Pontikon\u00edssi) where Austria's Empress 'Sisi' liked to sit. The small church was built in the 12th century. _Monastery and church open to the public during the day_\n\n## KARD\u00c1KI SPRING\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6]\n\nA short stroll along a narrow path at the edge of the Mon Repos castle park takes you from the An\u00e1lipsis district down to this Venetian spring. Its water used to flow out of the head of a Lion of St Mark. _Free access | The path begins at the square-like space in front of the church and cemetery of An\u00e1lipsis between houses 14 and 18_\n\n## \u00c1GIOS J\u00c1SON KE SOSS\u00cdPATROS CHURCH\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nThis thousand-year-old, cross-vaulted church is the most splendid example of Byzantine architecture on Corfu. The lower section of the walls was built out of tuff, regularly hewn in ancient times; further up, the ashlars are separated by decorative rows of bricks \u2013 the eastern wall is especially impressive. Here, the bricks are arranged in the style of the Cufic characters popular in the Arab world to form the letters IC \u2013 the monogram for Jesus Christ. _Admission free | Anem\u00f3milos district | City bus to Kan\u00f3ni, J\u00e1son ke Soss\u00edpatro stop_\n\n## \u00c0GIOS SPIR\u00cdDONAS CHURCH\n\nMap Corfu [E2\u20133] | Google Map)\n\nBelievers have showered the church of the island's patron saint, which is located in the centre of the Old Town, with votive offerings. Its most precious relics are the bones of St Spiridon, a Cypriot martyr from around 300 AD. Corfu purchased these relics in 1456 and it is said that the saint has performed countless major and minor miracles over the centuries.\n\nThe interior of the church was completely redecorated in the 18th and 19th centuries in the style of the Ionian school \u2013 the ceiling paintings and icons are no longer in keeping with the Byzantine tradition but are orientated totally on models from the west. St Spiridon's silver-embossed, ebony sarcophagus is in the side chapel on the right, behind the iconostasis. Believers of all age groups come throughout the day, light a candle, kiss the sarcophagus and write their wishes or thanks to the saint in a book. Silver oil lamps, donated by believers, hang over the sarcophagus. It is easy to recognise that some of them were donated by seamen and ship owners: they are decorated with silver model boats or with votive plates of ship reliefs. _Open during the day | Od\u00f3s Spir\u00eddonos_\n\n## PANAG\u00cdAS SPILI\u00d3TISSIS KE \u00c1GION VLASI\u00da KE THEOD\u00d3RAS (MITR\u00d3POLIS) CHURCH\n\nMap Corfu [D2] | Google Map)\n\nThe locals call 'All Saints Church of the Cave and the Saints Blase and Theodora' the Mitr\u00f3polis \u2013 Bishop's Church \u2013 for short. Its greatest treasure are the bones of the Byzantine Empress Theodora that lie in a silver sarcophagus in the chapel to the left of the sanctuary. The Empress is of great importance for the Orthodoxy because she put an end to a Civil War in the Byzantine Empire that had lasted for more than a century, the Ikonoklasmos, in 843 AD.\n\nThis was fought over the holiness of icons and the justification for worshiping them. Empress Theodora saw that those in favour of pictures won and, without her, there would be no icons in Orthodox churches today. For this reason, many of those in the Mitr\u00f3polis show her holding one. _Daily, at least from 7.30am\u20131pm and 4.30\u20138.00pm | Old Town | Od\u00f3s Vitzar\u00fa Kiriak\u00ed | Entrance from the Old Harbour_\n\n## AG\u00cdAS EFTH\u00cdMIAS CONVENT\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6]\n\nThis convent from the Venetian era is particularly notable for its beautiful inner courtyard with its many flowers. _In summer: open daily 8am\u20131pm and 4\u20138pm; at other times: 9am\u2013noon and 4\u20136pm | Anem\u00f3milos district | On the road from Mon Repos beach to thePale\u00f3pils Basilica_\n\n## \u00c1GII THEOD\u00d3RI CONVENT\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nNext to the site of the Antique Artemis Temple, this convent with its large atmospheric courtyard is a place of silence. The remains of an early-Christian basilica were integrated into the convent church; other sections of the complex are, however, closed to visitors. _Daily 9am\u20131pm and 5\u20137.30pm (ring the bell if the gate is closed) | City bus to Kan\u00f3ni, Pale\u00f3polis stop and then follow the path to Artemis Temple_\n\n## KREMASTI FOUNTAIN\n\nMap Corfu [D2]\n\nA private benefactor donated this fountain to the city 'for the well-being of the general public' (according to the inscription). It is located at one of the loveliest places in the Cambi\u00e9llo district of the Old Town. _Plat\u00eda Lili Desilla, can be reached via Od\u00f3s \u00c1gias Theod\u00f3ras_\n\n##   MON REPOS\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nThe small castle with its somewhat overgrown park has a turbulent tale to tell. The British Lord High Commissioner had it built as his private residence and it was taken into the possession of the Greek royal family in 1864. In 1921, Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II's husband, was born here. Since 2001, the castle has served as the museum for the history of Pale\u00f3polis.\n\nA   10 minute walk through the almost tropical park with its old trees will take you to the idyllic _Doric temple_ from the 5th century BC at the end of the signposted path. _Park open daily 8am\u2013\u200b7pm | Admission free; museum Tue\u2013\u200bFri 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 3 euros | Entrance at the Pale\u00f3polis stop on the bus route to Kan\u00f3ni._\n\n## MUSEUM OF ASIAN ART\n\nMap Corfu [F2]\n\nArtworks from many Asian countries, which a Greek diplomat donated to the state, are exhibited in many rooms in the Old Palace. Most of them come from Japan, Korea, India, Tibet, Thailand, Burma and China. _April\u2013Oct: Mon 1.30\u20138pm, Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20138pm; at other times: Tue\u2013Sun 8.30am\u20133pm | Admission 3 euros (combined ticket, see p. 115)_\n\n## NEW FORTRESS (N\u00c9O FR\u00daRIO)\n\nMap Corfu [A\u2013B 2\u20133] | Google Map)\n\nThe New Fortress occupies a hill-top site between the old and new ports. It is not at all new, only not quite as old as the Old Fortress. The Venetians built it in the 16th century. The port gate with the relief of St Mark's lion is very beautiful and the long, dark passages inside the castle are extremely impressive as is the fine panoramic view from the roof of the citadel. There is also an exhibition of the history of Corfiot ceramics from ancient times to the present day. _June\u2013Sept: daily 9am--\u201310pm; at other times: 9am\u20135pm | Admission 3 euros | Entrance Od\u00f3s Solom\u00fa_\n\n## TOWN HALL\n\nMap Corfu [D3\u20134]\n\nThe ground floor of the harmoniously designed building was built in the late 17th century as a clubhouse for the Venetian nobility. In 1721, it was converted into a theatre and, in 1903, into the town hall. _The interior is not open to the public | Plat\u00eda Dimarch\u00edu_\n\n## ROMAN-CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL AG\u00cdU IAK\u00d3VU KE CHRISTOPH\u00d3RU\n\nMap Corfu [E4]\n\nThe church, with its Classicist fa\u00e7ade, was built in 1553, but was subjected to major alterations in 1658 and partially destroyed by German incendiary bombs in 1943. It was not re-consecrated until 1970. _Usually open throughout the day | Mass, June\u2013Sept: Sat 7pm, Sun 8.30am, 10am and 7pm; Oct\u2013May: 6pm instead of 7pm | Plat\u00eda Dimarch\u00edu_\n\n## CITY ART GALLERY\n\nMap Corfu [F2]\n\nMost of the works in the collection of paintings in two side wings of the Old Palace were created by Corfiot painters from the 19th and 20th centuries. _Daily 9am\u20139pm | Admission 1 euro_\n\n## SCHULENBERG MEMORIAL\n\nMap Corfu [F4]\n\nA baroque memorial to Count Johann Matthias von der Schulenberg, who \u2013 in Venetian service \u2013 successfully defended Corfu from the Turks, is located near the bridge to the Contrafossa that leads into the Old Fortress. _Esplanade_\n\n## V\u00cdDOS\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E5] | Google Map)\n\nThe lush, green island located so close to the town is ideal for a gentle stroll. There is also a small pebble beach that is mainly frequented by the locals and a mausoleum dedicated to those soldiers of the Serbian Army who fell on Corfu during World War I. _(In summer, small ferries take passengers to and from V\u00eddos from the Old Port; 10am\u2013midnight, on the hour)_.\n\nThe   _Calypso Star_ makes 40-minute tours around the island of V\u00eddos every hour between 10am and 6pm. Passengers can stand in the ship's hull and watch the submarine world through large windows. _(Departure from the same jetty at the Old Port | 14 euros)_.\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## AEGLI\n\nMap Corfu [E2] | Google Map)\n\nClassical restaurant and caf\u00e9 right on the Esplanade with tables both indoors and outside. International and Greek cuisine \u2013 the patron is the German honorary consul on the island and makes sure that the restaurant's reputation is upheld. _Daily after 10am | Expensive_\n\n## AL\u00c9KOS BEACH\n\nMap Corfu [F2] | Google Map)\n\nNowhere else on Corfu can you eat closer to the water. Sometimes the waves even splash over the quay when the ferries pass by \u2013 then everybody leaps up to keep their feet dry! The view of the floodlit Old Fortress and port building in Falir\u00e1ki in the evening is particularly atmospheric. Small skewers of meat \u2013 _souvl\u00e1ki_ \u2013 cost around 1.70 euros each and you have to decide on how many you want when you order. _Daily | Falir\u00e1ki | \u00c1gios Nik\u00f3las Gate | Budget_\n\n |\n\n## BELLISSIMO\n\n---|---\n\nMap Corfu [D3]\n\nFather and son, K\u00f3stas and St\u00e1vros, take care of the service. \u00c1nna and D\u00f3ra are in charge of the kitchen. There are five to six different specialities every day along with gyros and grilled meat. Spanak\u00f3pitta, home made puff pastry filled with chard, mint, leek, a bit of cheese and touch of fennel, is pure poetry. Meals are served on a pretty, newly laid-out, square. _Mon\u2013Sat, and Sunday evenings in August | Od\u00f3s D. Bitz\u00e1rou Kyriaki | Entrance between 67 and 69 Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki | Budget_\n\n |\n\n## DIMARCHIO\n\n---|---\n\nMap Corfu [E4]\n\nThe main selling point of this restaurant on the square in front of the town hall is its size. Greek and Mediterranean cooking with delicious fish dishes at set prices. _Daily | Plat\u00eda Dimarch\u00edu | Corner of Od\u00f3s Guilford | Expensive_\n\n## EKT\u00d3S SK\u00c9DIO\n\nMap Corfu [C2]\n\nThis _tsipour\u00e1diko_ is popular with the locals all year round. As the name tells you, this is where _ts\u00edpouro_ \u2013 a kind of grappa \u2013 is served. There are other drinks as well and an enormous selection of Greek specialities, served as small portions so that you can put together your personal feast. Holiday-makers are welcome but not wooed. Most of the visitors are young, fairly well off Corfiots which means that things get lively after 10pm. _Daily, only in the evening | Od\u00f3s Prossal\u00e9ndiou 43 | Behind the Court building | Moderate_\n\n## EY LOUNGE\n\nMap Corfu [E3] | Google Map)\n\nLounge, caf\u00e9 and restaurant. This is the place for a good breakfast, pasta, salads, warm and cold snacks, as well as international dishes. Corfiot business people meet here for lunch; in the evening, the lounge is the perfect venue to start the night. _Daily | Od\u00f3s Kapodistr\u00edu 32 | Expensive_\n\n##    OLD FORTRESS CAF\u00c9\n\nMap Corfu [C6] | Google Map)\n\nThe modern caf\u00e9 in the Old Fortress is an atmospheric location to drink excellent Greek wines, cocktails or _ts\u00edpouro_ (grappa) accompanied by an omelette, salad, or platter of mixed starters, _pikilies_. There are concerts on some evenings. _Daily | In the Old Fortress | Admission only with a valid ticket when the Old Fortress is open; after that, free | Expensive_\n\n |\n\n## P\u00c9RGOLA\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nMap Corfu [C3] | Google Map)\n\nS\u00e1kis, the owner of this unpretentious taverna, serves the best Greek food, slightly sparkling wine from the village of Zitsa on the mainland and excellent grappa. Stuffed aubergines with a cheese topping and his salad of wild greens _tsigar\u00e9lli_ are heavenly. _Daily | Od\u00f3s Ag\u00edas Sofias 10 | Moderate_\n\n## RO\u00daVAS\n\nMap Corfu [C4]\n\nThere is no outdoor seating in this typical market taverna, but here you can choose your meal directly from the pots of \u2013 mostly \u2013 stewed dishes. The salads are fresh and crisp, and the vegetables and meat come from the market. Many stall holders eat here \u2013 they know what quality is! _Mon\u2013Sat | Od\u00f3s Dess\u00edla 13 | Budget_\n\n## TO PARADOSIAK\u00d3N\n\nMap Corfu [C2] | Google Map)\n\nSimple restaurant with reserved \u2013 but friendly \u2013 service by the young owner. Good for a quick lunch; you can also take a look in the kitchen. _Daily | Od\u00f3s Solm\u00fa 20 | Moderate_\n\n# SHOPPING\n\nThe main shopping street for the locals is Od\u00f3s Vular\u00e9os in the Old Town and its continuation,   Od\u00f3s G. Theot\u00f3ki, in the new section with its beautiful arcades. Modern shops, especially those selling electrical items and multimedia, can be found on the wide Od\u00f3s Al\u00e9xandras that runs from Plat\u00eda G. Theot\u00f3ki (Sarocco Square) to the sea. Arts and crafts and souvenirs are mainly offered on Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki, Od\u00f3s Filarmonik\u00eds and Od\u00f3s Fil\u00e9llinon in the Old Town.\n\n |\n\n## BY TOM\n\n|  |    \n---|---|---|---\n\nMap Corfu [C2]\n\nThe olive-wood carver Thom\u00e1s Koumar\u00e1kos's unsophisticated workshop. Thom\u00e1s still only uses traditional techniques and has been putting his heart and soul into his work since he started in 1969. He also makes bespoke pieces for his customers \u2013 quickly and at a reasonable price \u2013 and delights in showing them the hundreds of tools he uses. _31 Parod\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki | Entrance between the houses at 81 and 83 Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki_\n\n## GREEK MUSHROOMS\n\nMap Corfu [C4]\n\nThe small town of Gr\u00e9vena is famous throughout the region for its mushrooms. Even most Greeks are not aware of the extent of the mushroom gatherers' inventiveness and this can now be seen in this shop for the first time. Along with various kinds of dried mushrooms and noodles, you can even find them preserved in oil or bottled as mushroom liqueur! Gr\u00e9vena also produces berry liqueur and jam. _Od\u00f3s Agias Sofias_\n\n## LALA\u00d3UNIS\n\nMap Corfu [E3]\n\nGreece's most renowned jeweller not only has branches in New York and on the Virgin Islands, but also in Corfu's Old Town. _Od\u00f3s Kapodistr\u00edu 35 | On the northwest corner of the arcades on the Esplanade_\n\n## ROL\u00c1NDOS\n\nMap Corfu [C2]\n\nPaintings by the young owner Rol\u00e1ndos Roditis and his mother Marie \u2013 even including some on old ship planks. Also, ceramics from the village of Kinopi\u00e1stes. _Od\u00f3s N. Theot\u00f3ki 99_\n\n## PATO\u00daNIS SOAP FACTORY\n\nMap Corfu [A6]\n\nYou can see how olive-oil soap is made in this more-than-hundred-year-old soap factory \u2013 and buy it in lovely wrappings. _Mon\u2013Sat 9am\u20132pm; Tue, Thur, Fri also 5\u20138.30pm | Od\u00f3s I. Teot\u00f3ki 9 |www.-patounis.gr_\n\n##   VASSIL\u00c1KIS\n\nMap Corfu [E2]\n\nThe city shop of Corfu's largest distillery offers many types of cumquat liqueur as well as other varieties, and ouzo and brandy. Of course, you can taste before you buy. The latest creation is an eau-de-cologne with a touch of cumquat. _Daily 8am\u2013midnight | Od\u00f3s Spir\u00eddonos 61_\n\n### Liqueurs in pretty bottles are not the only attraction at Vassil\u00e1kis' in K\u00e9rkyra\n\n---\n\n##   WEEKLY MARKET\n\nMap Corfu [B4]\n\nA real market! You won't find any souvenirs here, but things the locals need every day: fresh fish and pulses, nuts, fruit and vegetables, herbs and flowers. There are small caf\u00e9s between the stands and the proprietors even take coffee to the dealers; lottery ticket sellers promise high winnings. _Mon\u2013Sat 7am\u20132pm | In the moat beneath Od\u00f3s Sp. Vlaikoj_\n\n# SPORTS & BEACHES\n\nThe small   _Mon Repos_ beach, with its popular _Kafen\u00edon_ , is the town's only beach _(daily, from 8am | Admission 1.50 euros)_. There are ladders at _Al\u00e9kos Beach_ on the Falir\u00e1ki Promontory to provide better access to the water _(daily 8am\u20138pm | Admission 1.50 euros)_. The _Holiday Palace_ next to the Kan\u00f3ni lookout point offers a water-sport centre and four bowling alleys _(tel. 26 61 03 65 40)_.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## CASINO\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6] | Google Map)\n\nRoulette, blackjack and gaming machines. _Daily | Admission 7 euros | Hotel Holiday Palace | Kan\u00f3ni_\n\n##   CAVALIERI ROOF GARDEN\n\nMap Corfu [E5] | Google Map)\n\nYou have a wonderful view over the town and island all the way to the mountains in Albania from the   roof garden of the Hotel Cavalieri. They not only serve all kinds of cocktails and drinks, but also sundaes, apple and lemon cakes, lasagne and cr\u00eapes filled with cheese and mushrooms. The roast pork stuffed with plums and apples is a real treat. _Daily | No admittance in shorts | Lift | Od\u00f3s Kapodistr\u00edu 4 | Expensive_\n\n## DISCO TOUR\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E5]\n\nCorfu's latest nightlife district is located on the coast road near the ferry port and the adjacent first section of the road towards Kontok\u00e1li where there is an endless line of clubs. They rarely open before 11pm and there is usually a charge for live events and guest DJs. Long drinks cost from 7 to 10 euros. Under 17-year-olds are not allowed. The 'in' discos at the moment are modelled on those in Athens and are right next to each other on the road to Kontok\u00e1li: _Romeo & Juliet_ and _Villa Mercedes_ (mainly house, r&b, Greek pop, _admission in both: 12 euros_ ), the _Au Bar_ , which caters to a considerably younger crowd (more Greek music) and the _Elektron_ (almost only Greek rock and pop) where many like to take a nightcap.\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n##   BELLA VENEZIA\n\nMap Corfu [D5] | Google Map)\n\nAtmospheric hotel in a Classicist building from the 19th century that was formerly a bank and then a school for girls. Each room is different and most have small balconies. Breakfast is served in the garden pavilion; the small bar opposite is the place to have an ap\u00e9ritif or nightcap in a relaxed environment. _32 rooms | Od\u00f3s Zambel\u00edu 4 | tel. 26 61 04 65 00 |www.bellaveneziahotel.com | Expensive_\n\n |\n\n## CAVALIERI\n\n---|---\n\nMap Corfu [E5] | Google Map)\n\nElegant hotel in a Venetian _palazzo_ at the end of the Esplanade. _48 rooms | Od\u00f3s Kapodistr\u00edu 4 | tel. 26 61 03 90 41 |www.cavalieri-hotel.com | Expensive_\n\n## CORFU PALACE\n\nMap Corfu [B6] | Google Map)\n\nLuxury hotel near the Old Town and sea with a seawater swimming pool, children's pool and indoor pool. You can reach the beaches by taxi or public bus. _106 rooms | Leof\u00f3ros Dimokrat\u00edas | tel. 26 61 03 94 85 |www.corfupalace.com | Expensive_\n\n## HERMES\n\nMap Corfu [C4] | Google Map)\n\nSimple hotel, centrally located near the market below the New Fortress. _32 rooms | Od\u00f3s G. Markor\u00e1 14 | tel. 26 61 03 92 68 |www.hermes-hotel.gr | Budget_\n\n |\n\n## KONSTANTINO\u00daPOLIS\n\n---|---\n\nMap Corfu [C1] | Google Map)\n\nFriendly hotel on five floors of a house built in 1861 directly by the Old Harbour. The reception and breakfast room are on the first floor; the small lobby between the two is like the salon of a traditional, middle-class Corfiot house. In spite of its age, the hotel's lift has always been reliable. _34 rooms | Od\u00f3s K. Zavitsiano\u00fa 1 | tel. 26 61 04 87 16 |www.konstantinoupolis.gr | Moderate_\n\n# INFORMATION\n\n## TOURIST INFORMATION\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6]\n\nThe information booth in the arrival hall of the airport is only sporadically manned in the summer months; no telephone or written information.\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n##   ACH\u00cdLLION\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B2] | Google Map)\n\nCorfu's most popular excursion destination is a small castle high above the east coast in the middle of a magnificent park with many sculptures. Empress Elisabeth of Austria (1837\u201398), better known as 'Sisi', had it built and visited it many times from 1891 until her assassination in Geneva. In 1907, the German Emperor Wilhelm II bought the property and spent Easter there every year. Achilles, the hero of the ancient sagas, was a favourite of the two royal figures, both putting up \u2013 completely different \u2013 monuments to him in the castle park. The melancholic Austrian loved the 'dying Achilles' with the arrow in his heel, while the Prussian admired the 'victorious Achilles' with his shield and lance. There are other statues showing the muses and many busts of ancient philosophers on the upper terrace.\n\nYou can visit the ground floor of Ach\u00edllion with its magnificent painted staircase, the castle chapel and several other rooms with furniture, paintings and other artefacts that remind one of the Imperial majesties. A particular oddity is Kaiser Wilhelm's desk chair in the shape of a saddle that sways like a rocking horse. _May\u2013Oct: daily 8.30am\u20138pm; at other times: Tue\u2013Sun 9am\u20134pm | Admission 7 euros_\n\nYou can taste the wines and liqueurs made by the _Vassil\u00e1kis_ distillery opposite Ach\u00edllion. _There are four to six buses daily to Ach\u00edllion \u2013 more in the high season \u2013 from San Rocco Square (line 10); tickets, also for the return trip, must be purchased in advance at the bus station or a kiosk; tickets are not available on the bus | 8 km (5 mi) from K\u00e9rkyra_\n\n### Ach\u00edllion: Corfu's most famous sight and a place of refuge for imperial rulers\n\n---\n\n  If you choose the right day, many of the sights in the town can be visited free of charge. Entrance to the Archaeological Map Corfu [B6] and Byzantine Museums Map Corfu [D1], the Old Palace Map Corfu [F2] and the Old Fortress Map Corfu [C5\u20136] is free every Sunday in winter, as well as on the first Sunday in April, May and October, on all public holidays, 6 March, the last weekend in September, World Museum Day in May, on World Memorial Day on 18 April and on World Environment Day on 5 June.\n\n  Feel like fast food? The greatest choice can be found on the Esplanade Map Corfu [E\u2013F4] at the west end of Od\u00f3s Dousm\u00e1ni; Many typical gyros taverns can be found in the streets parallel to Od\u00f3s Zaitsain\u00f3u near the Old Harbour Map Corfu [C2].\n\n### Photo: Cliffs near Sid\u00e1ri\n\n---\n\n##    HIGHLIGHTS | ACHAR\u00c1VI & R\u00d3DA | \u00c1GIOS GE\u00d3RGIOS, AFI\u00d3NAS & ARILL\u00c1S | BAR\u00c1TI & NISS\u00c1KI | KASSI\u00d3PI | PALEOKASTR\u00cdTSA, L\u00c1KONES & LIAP\u00c1DES\n\n### A mighty mountain stretches all the way across Corfu between Paleokastr\u00edtsa and Kassi\u00f3pi, probably the island's most beautiful coastal villages. The highest point is Pantokr\u00e1tor and its upper regions are really alpine in character.\n\nSerpentine roads lead to peaceful mountain villages, unmade tracks are a challenge to 4\u00d74 drivers and mountain bikers. With its many old villages among the olive groves, the countryside in the northwest is more gentle. This is where herbs are sold and you can even enjoy wine tasting on the roadside. Panorama restaurants and a medieval castle offer wonderful views. There are also beaches for all tastes: mile-long stretches of fine sand in front of a flat hinterland or steep cliffs, small pebbly bays that can often only be reached by boat (and you do not need a license to rent one), and smooth chalk cliffs that you have to clamber down. The rustic caf\u00e9s and idyllic village squares are the places to take a break and have a chat with the locals.\n\n    | Pale\u00f3 Perithia    \n---|---\n\nA village as it was in Venetian days\n\n  | Canal d'Amour    \n---|---\n\nLegend has it that women who swim here can wish themselves a husband\n\n  | Cape Dr\u00e1stis   \n---|---\n\nFirst the fairy-tale panorama and then a refreshing dip\n\n  | Panag\u00eda Theot\u00f3ku tis Paleokastr\u00edtas Monastery    \n---|---\n\nCorfu's most beautiful monastery\n\n  | Golden Fox    \n---|---\n\nAccommodation with a heavenly view\n\n  | Angel\u00f3kastro    \n---|---\n\nRomantic castle ruins and wild coastal scenery\n\n# ACHAR\u00c1VI & R\u00d3DA\n\nRoad Atlas [126\u2013127 C\u2013D 1\u20132]\n\n### Achar\u00e1vi and R\u00f3da lie about 3 km (1.9 mi) apart on the north coast of Corfu but they are linked to each other by a 6 km (3.7 mi) long beach which is mostly fine sand.\n\nAchar\u00e1vi (pop. 650) was originally a fishing village with its historical centre lying inland some 500 m from the coast; the old heart of R\u00f3da (pop. 370) is directly on the shore. Today, both are lively holiday destinations in the summer months. Achar\u00e1vi has more shops, tavernas and top-class hotels; R\u00f3da's advantage is its \u2013 very short \u2013 promenade along the shore. As is often the case in Greece, you won't find any street names in these two villages. Orientation in R\u00f3da is quite simple; everything is concentrated around the coastal road and the short stretch connecting it to the island's main road network. The old main road leading to the centre of Achar\u00e1vi, that was once just a small village, is off a rather nondescript roundabout located on the road around the island.\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n## ROMAN BATHS\n\nIn 1985, archaeologists unearthed the scanty remains of a Roman thermal bath. Experts can just about recognise the hypocaust floor supports. Hot air from an oven circulated between them \u2013 an early form of underfloor heating. _Free viewing | Achar\u00e1vi | left, on the main road to R\u00f3da_\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## MONOLITHI\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nRomantically decorated taverna in a former olive mill on a green hill above Achar\u00e1vi. Many northern-Greek specialities. Occasionally live music on Saturday and Sunday evenings. _Daily, from 11am | Signpost off the main road | Expensive_\n\n## P\u00c1NGALOS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nTables on the terrace of the more than 175-year-old warehouse are right on the shore. No other restaurant in R\u00f3da has a better location but the food is \u2013 like every-where else in R\u00f3da \u2013 mediocre at best. _Daily, from 10am | R\u00f3da | On the coastal road in the village centre | Moderate_\n\n## PUMPHOUSE\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nA real restaurant with real tablecloths, the glow of tea light candles, fresh flowers on the table and easy-listening music in the background. Add to this, multilingual, fast, polite service and fine cooking. Many dishes are served with tasty roast potatoes and the well-spiced _tas kebab_ , a kind of stew with three types of meat, is outstanding. Large portions. _Daily, from 5pm | Achar\u00e1vi | At the roundabout | Expensive_\n\n# SHOPPING\n\n## OLIVE WOOD\n\nLarge selection of olive-wood objects worked on the lathe by the owner Polychr\u00f3nis himself, presented with charm by his Dutch wife Paulien. _On the road from the Dim\u00edtra Supermarket to the beach_\n\n# SPORT & BEACHES\n\nThe more than 6 km (3.7 mi) long beach of fine sand, with only a few pebbly patches, begins in R\u00f3da, makes its way past Achar\u00e1vi and continues as _Almir\u00f3s Beach_ to the small island of _Agia Ekaterini_ which can be reached over a footbridge. A 30-minute walk along a track will take you across the island to _\u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas_ and, after another 15 minutes, you will reach the road around the island. You can then catch the bus back to Achar\u00e1vi or R\u00f3da.\n\nGuided two-hour tours on horseback are offered daily at 9am, 11am, 5pm and 7pm in R\u00f3da. The horses can be seen in a paddock on the road connecting the route around the island with the shore promenade.\n\nThere are water-sport facilities at the port in R\u00f3da and in front of the large hotels in Achar\u00e1vi.\n\n### Pre-season \u2013 but even later there'll be enough room for everyone on the beach in Achar\u00e1vi\n\n---\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## HARRY'S BAR\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nHarry has been taking special care of his guests since 1981 and promotes communication at a reasonable price. You can watch all major sporting events on a large screen. _Achar\u00e1vi | At the east end of the old village road |www.harrysbar-corfu.com_\n\n |\n\n## LEMON GARDEN\n\n---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe most unusual restaurant in the north of the island is a place where guests of all ages and whole families gather under old lemon trees or an aromatic, traditional Corfiot wooden roof for breakfast, a drink or meal. Meat and fresh fish are grilled every day in the garden and you will almost feel like you are at a private garden party. You won't find many places as atmospheric and personal as here _(Restaurant: Moderate). Achar\u00e1vi | On the main road, 50 m to the west of the roundabout_\n\n## VEGGERA BEACH BAR\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nLounge atmosphere between cacti and agaves in the beach bar that becomes a mecca for sunset freaks in the evening. _Achar\u00e1vi | Access from the EuroHire travel agency on the main road_\n\n## YAMAS\n\nLacking a real discotheque, this small music bar with the apt name 'Cheers!' has become the evening meeting place for young holidaymakers and locals alike. _Daily | Achar\u00e1vi | At the roundabout_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n## ACHAR\u00c1VI BEACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nBeach hotel with five one and two-storey buildings. Beach bar and pool between the hotel and beach. Rows of oleanders, lemon trees and palms decorate the garden. _97 rooms and apartments | Achar\u00e1vi | East of the roundabout | tel. 26 63 06 31 02 |www.acharavibeach.com | Moderate_\n\n## LTI-GEL\u00cdNA VILLAGE\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nSpacious, all-inclusive complex with a large fun pool directly on the beach. Many sports activities, open-air cinema, spa facilities with indoor pool. _281 studios and apartments | At the eastern edge of the village | tel. 26 63 06 40 00 |www.gelinavillage.gr | Expensive_\n\n |\n\n## R\u00d3DA INN\n\n---|---\n\nSimple hotel and good value for money on the little used coastal road in R\u00f3da, only 10 m from the sandy beach. The very friendly owner, Helen, lives in Canada in winter and speaks English; most of the regular guests are British retirees. _25 rooms | R\u00f3da | tel. 26 63 06 33 58 | Budget_\n\n## SAINT GEORGE'S BAY COUNTRY CLU\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis beach hotel is a perfect example of how best to adapt to the natural and historical surroundings. The seventy apartments, each accommodating up to four, are spread over a number of individually designed two-storey, island-style houses. Here, you almost feel that you are in a Corfiot village but with all mod cons and facilities. These include two flood-lit tennis courts, a clubhouse and restaurant, a spa area and large pool. _Achar\u00e1vi | East of the roundabout | tel. 26 63 06 32 03 |www.stgeorgesbay.com | Expensive_\n\n## TOURIST STUDIO\n\n\u00c9lena Vl\u00e1chou's travel agency on the cul-de-sac leading to the Ionian Princess Hotel can arrange holiday apartments and houses in Achar\u00e1vi. _Tel. 26 63 06 35 24_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## AG\u00cdA EKATER\u00cdNII\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D1] | Google Map)\n\nThe northeast tip of Corfu is formed by the island of Ag\u00eda Ekater\u00edni that is covered by ferns and forests of pine, cypress and eucalyptus trees. On the landside, it is enclosed by Antoni\u00f3tis, a lake of brackish water that is rich in fish, and the two arms connecting it to the sea. Bridges lead to the island; the one from Archar\u00e1vi may only be used by pedestrians, cyclists and moped riders; the one to \u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas is also open to cars.\n\nThe deserted _Ag\u00eda Ekater\u00edni_ (also written: _Ayia Aikaterini_ ) Monastery from 1713 lies hidden in a wood. Although there is not a lot to see, for those who want to, leave the track where it enters the wood and go straight ahead for two minutes.\n\nSmall paths also lead off of the main one to small, almost deserted, shingle beaches where nude bathing is possible. However, the 100-metre-long   sandy beach at _\u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas_ is much nicer; its gentle incline also makes it suitable for small children. There is a new, rather nondescript chapel and the Lagoon Taverna _(daily | Moderate)_ that serves fresh fish on the beach. _8 km (5 mi) from Archar\u00e1vi_\n\n## ASTRAK\u00c9RI\n\nRoad Atlas [126 C1] | Google Map)\n\nThe tiny hamlet with its houses scattered through an olive grove and a long beach of coarse sand is well known for the   _Greg\u00f3ris_ tavern only 20 metres from the water. The live lobsters, caught by the proprietor, are less expensive than elsewhere _(signposted | Moderate). 6 km (3.7 mi) from R\u00f3da_\n\n## N\u00cdMFES\n\nRoad Atlas [126 C2] | Google Map)\n\nThe   _Evstr\u00e1menou Church_ , which is unique in the world and continues to baffle historians, is located on the outskirts of N\u00edmfes and can only be visited from outside. A dome similar to that of a Ceylonese stupa \u2013 a form of Buddhist temple \u2013 rises up over a hexagonal base. It is crowned by a hexagonal lantern of six windows. The church was probably erected in the 18th century but the white extension with the four-sided lantern and bell tower was not added until 1860.\n\nThe centre of the village lies on the edge of a valley with many cumquat trees. The simple taverns _(Budget)_ are only open in the evening \u2013 except in August when they open earlier. _Left on the road from Pl\u00e1tonas to N\u00edmfes (signposted) | 6 km (3.7 mi) from R\u00f3da_\n\n##   PALE\u00d3 PER\u00cdTHIA\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E2] | Google Map)\n\nPale\u00f3 Per\u00edthia looks like a museum village from the Venetian period. Situated in a fertile, high-altitude valley below Pantokr\u00e1tor, it was quite well-off in former days as can be seen by the large, sturdy stone houses and churches. However, its inhabitants moved down to the coast where they founded _N\u00e9a Per\u00edthia_ (New Per\u00edthia). Only a few elderly shepherds remained. The village fell into oblivion and escaped the cementing boom of the 1970s and 80s. In the early 1990s, the first tavern opened and, today, there are four. The locals like the _Taverna F\u00f3ros_ best \u2013 also   because of its excellent walnut cake. _Buses only twice a day to Lo\u00fatses, then 3 km (1.9 mi) on foot | 15 km (9.3 mi) from Archar\u00e1vi_\n\n### In the deserted village Pale\u00f3 Per\u00edthia time seems to have stood still\n\n---\n\n## SID\u00c1RI\n\nRoad Atlas [126 B1\u20132] | Google Map)\n\nSid\u00e1ri is like a fairground. There is a string of bars, travel agencies and souvenir shops along the main street; nothing is left of its former charm. The lingua franca is only Greek in winter; in summer, everyone speaks English. The pools are flooded with rock music and there is hardly a bar that doesn't have a large screen for sporting events.\n\nSid\u00e1ri might not be everybody's first choice for a holiday but it is worth visiting. Corfu's impressive, light-coloured cliffs that stretch around _Cape Dr\u00e1stis_ past the small village of Perul\u00e1des, begin to the west of the stream that separates Sid\u00e1ri from the parish of Perul\u00e1des. Good swimmers can reach the water over the smooth rocks at the cape and the deckchair hire operator also offers   short motorboat trips under the sheer cliffs along the coast.\n\nIn Sid\u00e1ri (pop. 400) itself, you can rent a taxi-boat to take you along the coast or a pedal boat to at least get a closer look at some of the nearby areas under your own steam. If you don't rent a boat, you should walk or drive from the bridge over the stream towards Perul\u00e1des and turn off the small road to the Pool Bar Restaurant _Kahlua_ at the     _Canal d'Amour_. Here, the coast is not yet as steep and inaccessible as it becomes further westwards and there are even deckchairs and sunshades on the cliffs. These cliffs are lined with small bays and drowned valleys with short sandy beaches and a number of caves. _8 km (5 mi) from R\u00f3da_\n\n### Umbrellas, sunbeds and paddle boats can be hired on the beach at Sid\u00e1ri\n\n---\n\n# \u00c1GIOS GE\u00d3RGIOS, AFI\u00d3NAS & ARILL\u00c1S\n\nRoad Atlas [126 A\u2013B 2\u20133] | Google Map)\n\n### \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios, which is actually part of the parish of P\u00e1gi located further inland, and Arill\u00e1s are coastal villages with long sandy beaches, while Afi\u00f3nas is a mountain village on the peninsula separating the other two.\n\n\u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios and Arill\u00e1s only come alive in summer but Afi\u00f3nas exudes a delightful rural atmosphere, making it worth visiting on your way round the island. There are no major sights in any of the three villages but the surroundings of Arill\u00e1s in particular attract many holidaymakers who want to do yoga and meditate.\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## 'DAS BLAUE HAUS' (THE BLUE HOUSE)\n\nThe owner serves excellent open wines, including some from Crete and Nem\u00e9a on the Peloponnese, and cooks mainly with seasonal products from the region \u2013 she also prepares vegetarian dishes. If she has time, the bubbly proprietor likes to talk about the country and its people. _Daily, in the evening, Sun\u2013Fri, also at lunchtime | On the main road to Af\u00edonas | Moderate_\n\n## DIONYSOS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nA taverna with a panoramic terrace high above \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios bay. Very friendly service. _Bekr\u00ed mez\u00e9_ (a kind of Greek stew) and roast pork in wine sauce are the specialities of the house. _Daily | Af\u00edonas | 100 m from the village square (signposted, although it cannot be reached by car) | Budget_\n\n## P\u00c9RGOLA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe best taverna in town, many local regulars. Here, you can still go into the kitchen and take a look in the pots. _Daily | Af\u00edonas | At the top of the main street | Budget_\n\nMany centres offer courses, seminars and workshops throughout the six -summer months. At the _Ouranos Centre_ the focus is on meditation and creative programmes, while the more international _Alexis Zorbas Centre (www.alexiszorbas.com)_ stresses body work. The   _Corfu Meditation House_ in Afi\u00f3nas offers the right ambience for meditating with an experienced Reiki expert and two rooms.\n\n# SHOPPING\n\n |\n\n## OLIVES AND MORE\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nThis is where you can find first-class olive oil and products made of it, as well as creations conjured up by the owners themselves. They produce red-wine vinegar and olive paste, preserve olives and fill olive oil into tins you can take with you on the plane. If you like, you can even get it straight from the barrel. _Sun\u2013Fri 10am\u20132pm and 3\u20139pm, Sat only 3\u20139pm | Af\u00edonas | At the top end of the village square_\n\n## \u00cdLIOS CENTRE\n\nThe perfect place for the romantically minded and shell collectors. The jewellery designer Alex in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n can cast miniature olive pits, things you have found or that have been washed up on the shore, in bronze, silver or gold for you to wear as a pendant in less than 40 minutes. _P\u00e1gi | On the road to the beach |www.ilios-living-art.com_\n\n# BEACHES\n\nThe sand beach at Arill\u00e1s is more than 2.5 km (1.6 mi) long. The south half is in front of the town and the northern section, where you can bathe without a swimsuit, is under the cliffs on the coast. There is a third, smaller, beach to the south, 15 minutes walk from Af\u00edonas.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\nThere are discos and music clubs in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios and Arill\u00e1s \u2013 but they come and go and the names change every year.\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n |\n\n## PANORAMA\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nFour apartments accommodating 2\u20134, on the slope below the taverna of the same name with a wonderful view of the sea and sunset are available to rent. _On the main street in Afi\u00f3nas | tel. 26 63 \u200b05\u200b18 46 |www.panoramacorfu.com | Budget_\n\n## P\u00d3RTO TIMI\u00d3NI\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nRooms and studios in a magnificent panoramic location high above the bay of \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios; perfect peace with absolutely no traffic noise. The ideal place to unwind and forget the rest of the world. _8 rooms | Af\u00edonas | tel. 26 63 05 20 51 | Moderate_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c1GIOS ST\u00c9FANOS AVLIOT\u00d3N\n\nRoad Atlas [126 A2] | Google Map)\n\nThis is an unplanned conglomeration of nondescript guesthouses, summer houses, tavernas and shops but the beach with its fine sand is 2 km (1.2 mi) long. Excursion boats leave from here for the islands Mathr\u00e1ki and Othon\u00ed. The surfing crowd is attracted by the frequently strong winds that blow across the bay. Nudists get together in the northern section of the beach under the steep cliffs. The glass artist Perdita Mouzakiti makes objects out of coloured glass in the centre of the settlement and her sister, Claudia, is usually around to advise customers and take care of sales _(www.perditasglassart.com). 1000 m from Arill\u00e1s, 3 km (1.9 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgio_s\n\n### Cape Dr\u00e1stis\u2013 the steep cliffs in the northwest can only be reached on foot or by boat\n\n---\n\n##   CAPE DR\u00c1STIS\n\nRoad Atlas [126 A1]\n\nOf all of Corfu's beautiful coastal landscapes, the one at the far northwest tip of the island is perhaps the nicest. It can be reached after a walk of around 30 minutes along a track that is also open to cars. It begins at the primary school in Perul\u00e1des (signposted). There is initially a slight incline after which it runs down to the sea and then, all of a sudden, you have the picture-book panorama of the bay in front of you. Below the almost 100 m (330 ft) high cape, sandstone formations like dragons' combs surround a small bay with a little island that looks like a shark's fin in front of it. The path winds past the cape to the east and ends up in a tiny bay framed by slabs of rock. If the sea is calm, you can jump into the water here and enjoy a swim in the crystal-clear sea with a view of the steep, light-coloured cliffs that tower up right out of the water. _10 km (6.2 mi) from Arill\u00e1s_\n\n## PERUL\u00c1DES\n\nRoad Atlas [126 A2] | Google Map)\n\nThe most north-western village on Corfu (pop. 780) has a fascinating beach. It is long and narrow and stretches along both sides of the village under a steep, towering coastline; a tarmac footpath leads down to it from the _Pan\u00f3rama_ Bar and Restaurant _(daily | Budget)_. If you don't care for the music there, the neighbouring taverna _Sunset_ might be more to your liking; it also has rooms in the village _(daily | Moderate_ ).\n\nThere is only one \u2013 extremely elegant \u2013 hotel in Perul\u00e1des. The young brother and sister duo Al\u00e9xandros and Luk\u00eda run the 200-year-old   _Villa de Loulia_ with its pool and garden. _(9 rooms | tel. 26 63 09 53 94 |www.villadeloulia.gr | Expensive). 8 km (5 mi) from Arill\u00e1s_\n\n# BAR\u00c1TI & NISS\u00c1KI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map)\n\n### Although, officially, the two villages on the south slope of Pantokr\u00e1tor only have a tiny population of around 150 people each, they are quite built-up. Particularly the slopes of Barb\u00e1ti are covered with rows of villas and flats.\n\nHere, the hotels are located between the road around the island and the steep rock walls of the Pantokr\u00e1tor massif, while in Niss\u00e1ki they can be found between the road and rocky shore. There are a few tavernas with beautiful panoramic terraces and a handful of shops along the road.\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## M\u00cdTSOS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nIn this simple tavern on a terrace jutting out over the sea between Niss\u00e1ki's miniature beach and port, you will find one of the best lemon tarts. The location makes up for the very average pizzas, pasta and other dishes. _Daily | Above the tiny car park at the harbourside in Niss\u00e1ki | Budget_\n\n# SPORT & BEACHES\n\nBarb\u00e1ti's rocky and pebbly beach is around 800 m long and up to 20 m wide. The increase in building activity on the slopes has made it rather crowded. Most of the coast near Niss\u00e1ki is rocky with tiny shingle beaches and less activity. In summer, there are two water-sport centres in Barb\u00e1ti and one in Niss\u00e1ki on the sand-and-pebble beach below the Hotel Sol Niss\u00e1ki Beach which offer a good range of activities and have equipment for hire.\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n |\n\n## LITTLE FARMHOUSE\n\n|  |    \n---|---|---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nIf you want to live really rustically, Anna Polychromi\u00e1dou will take care of you. The organic farmer has a holiday house for 2\u20134 to rent, with a donkey for the children, chickens for your breakfast egg and a lot of tales to tell about the island. _Signpost at the south entrance to the village of K\u00e9ndroma, about 100 m above the road around the island | tel. 26 63 09 12 20 |www.guestinn.com | Budget_\n\n## LA SERENISSIMA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe historian Hannelore Stammler has turned a Venetian country house, painted dusky pink in the style of the island, into an elegant hotel with pool and panoramic views where lunch and dinner are provided for guests if they request it. _Above the road from Pirg\u00ed to Barb\u00e1ti | tel. 26 61 \u200b09 39 22 |www.residenz-serenissima.de (click Union Jack for English text) | Expensive_\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n |\n\n## PAL\u00c9O CHORI\u00d3\n\n---|---\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map)\n\nPal\u00e9o Chori\u00f3 is a ghost village in which only one house has been restored since 2000. All the others are roofless ruins. The last inhabitants probably moved away before World War II. Remnants of frescoes can be found in the empty old village church, including a lovely depiction of the Twelve Apostles. You can only reach Pal\u00e9o Chori\u00f3 on foot, by off-road motorbike, mountain bike or 4\u00d74; the dusty track between Vinglat\u00fari and Pantokr\u00e1tor is impassable for normal cars. _7 km (4.3 mi) from Niss\u00e1ki_\n\n## PANTOKR\u00c1TOR\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E2] | Google Map)\n\nA tarmac road leads up to Corfu's highest mountain with an altitude of around 910 m. The view from the peak is breathtaking and, if the weather is clear, reaches far into Albania and the Greek mainland. A former monastery from the 17th century located on the peak is surrounded by civil and military radio masts. Since 1998, it has been occupied once again in the summer months \u2013 alternately by a priest from a nearby mountain village and a monk from a Corfiot monastery. Since then, time-consuming restoration of the church frescoes has taken place and some of them have now regained their seventeenth-century splendour. Depic-tions of Jesus' descent into Hades, the Annunciation, the Nativity and Jesus in the Temple can be made out in the southern section of the vault. _Accessible during day-light hours | Entrance free | 26 km (16.2 mi) from Niss\u00e1ki_\n\n## STRIN\u00cdLAS\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D2\u20133] | Google Map)\n\nCorfu's highest mountain village is located 630 m above sea level and has only 45 inhabitants. A taverna under the old elm on the village square offers good food. _20 km (12 mi) from Niss\u00e1ki_\n\n### This taverna in Strin\u00edlas, Corfu's highest mountain village, is very popular\n\n---\n\n# KASSI\u00d3PI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E1\u20132] | Google Map)\n\n### The large village (pop. 1000) in the northeast of the island boasts two picturesque bays facing the Albanian coast.\n\nThe eastern bay is a protected natural harbour for fishing and excursion boats and yachts; most of the village's bars and taverns are located around the harbour basin. A headland with old olive trees and the overgrown ruins of a Venetian castle separates the two bays.\n\nIn Roman times, Kassi\u00f3pi was a harbour town where ships stopped over to wait for better weather before sailing from Greece to Italy \u2013 taking Emperor Nero or Cicero the statesman with them.\n\n### Fishing boats as well as lots of yachts anchor in the harbour in Kassi\u00f3pi\n\n---\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n## CASTLE\n\nOver the past few years, the EU has invested millions in the castle that the Venetians built in 1386 on top of the remains of old walls. The interior, completely overgrown by scrub, is illuminated at night and a sprinkler system ensures its protection from fire. The gatehouse has been restored and improvements made to the outer walls with their 13 towers. However, there was no money left to signpost the way to the castle and completely pave the path. _Free access | The path to the castle begins on the main road to the harbour opposite Panag\u00eda Kassi\u00f3pitra Church_.\n\n## PANAG\u00cdA KASSI\u00d3PITRA CHURCH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis church from 1590 occupies the site on which the Romans had built a temple to the father of the Gods Jupiter 1600 years before. The walls of the house of worship were decorated with frescoes in the 17th century but only a few remnants have been preserved. An icon of Saint Mary from 1670 is especially beautiful. It shows the Virgin holding the baby Jesus seated on a throne with the church and castle of Kassi\u00f3pi below. _Open sporadically | Access from the main road to the harbour and the terrace of the Three Brothers Tavern at the harbour_\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## J\u00c1NIS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nMany varieties of English breakfast are served in this taverna on the main beach until 3pm. Most of the other dishes on the menu are also British. _Daily | Where the one-way road from the harbour meets the circular island road | Expensive_\n\n## P\u00d3RTO\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe view from this harbour tavern is lovely \u2013 if tourist coaches do not happen to be in the way. The choice of dishes is extensive \u2013 the quality, average. _Gal\u00e9os bourd\u00e9to_ is one of the specialities of the house. _Daily | At the harbourside | Moderate_\n\n# BEACHES\n\nThe long sandy _Main Beach_ skirts Kassi\u00f3pi's western bay. The promenade that leads around the peninsula with the castle is about a 20-minute walk and provides access to tiny shingle beaches. The most beautiful beach in Kassi\u00f3pi, _Bater\u00eda Beach_ , at the head of the peninsula, is only about 80 m long; deckchairs and umbrellas are available for hire. It is also possible to swim from the rocks to the east of the harbour.\n\n### The beach in Bater\u00eda may not be very long, but it's lovely\n\n---\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\nThe best way to spend the evening is in one of the bars at the harbour. The _Passion Disco_ on the south side of the basin opens its doors at midnight, with a British DJ usually playing the latest hits.\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\nMost of the rooms in Kassi\u00f3pi are in the hands of British and Scandinavian tourist agencies and not available to individual travellers. Other renters only accept guests who stay for more than one night.\n\n## O\u00c1SIS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe small hotel above the taverna of the same name, founded in 1935, is a godsend to those who only want to spend one night in Kassi\u00f3pi. If you choose a room without a view, on the mountain side, you will even have a peaceful night. Private car park behind the house. The proprietor L\u00f3la Sarakin\u00fa's daughter, Mandi, speaks English. _30 rooms | Od\u00f3s Kassiop\u00edtras 6 | Main road to the harbour | Budget_\n\n## ARAKINO\u00da ROOMS\n\nAn old-fashioned guesthouse with very reasonable prices and many regular guests. The four rooms and studios are located around a small courtyard above a row of shops virtually on the harbour. The owner, Helena, takes good care of her guests. _On the main road opposite the entrance to the churchyard. | tel. 26 63 08 12 31 | Budget_\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n## \u00c1GIOS ST\u00c9FANOS SINI\u00c9S\n\nRoad Atlas [127 F2] | Google Map)\n\n\u00c1gios Stef\u00e1nos Sini\u00e9s (pop. 230) is the closest Corfiot village to Albania. Yachts-men anchor in the long bay and several tavernas on the shore do all they can to attract guests. There are a few private rooms, but most are reserved for British tourist agencies. You can rent a motorboat for a tour along the coast. _6 km (3.7 mi) from Kassi\u00f3pi_\n\n## AGN\u00cd\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E\u2013F3] | Google Map)\n\nAgn\u00ed is a peaceful bay with a 150 m-long, white shingle-and-stone beach, a few private rooms and three tavernas. Wooden jetties where yachts moor jut out into the water. The three inns all serve good fresh fish. There are many dishes for vegetarians on the menu of the _Agn\u00ed_ tavern \u2013 _mar\u00edda jemist\u00e1_ , sardines filled with cheese, garlic and parsley, are quite innovative. Scampi pilaf, _pil\u00e1fi me g\u00e1rides_ , is the hit in _Toula's Taverna (all open daily | Budget)_. You should use the car park on the outskirts of the village; it is often impossible to turn at the waterside! _11 km (6.8 mi) from Kassi\u00f3pi_\n\n## AVL\u00c1KI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 F2] | Google Map)\n\nThe 500 m-long shingle beach to the southeast of Kassi\u00f3pi is still hardly built up. There is only one taverna, a water-sport centre and the modern apartment-hotel Bella Mare _(27 rooms | tel.: 26 63 \u200b08 19 97 | Expensive)_. You can walk there from Kassi\u00f3pi in around 25 minutes. _2 km (1.2 mi) from Kassi\u00f3pi_\n\n## KAL\u00c1MI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 F3] | Google Map)\n\nThe tiny hamlet of Kal\u00e1mi on the coast is almost smothered by a large holiday club complex. A visit can be recommended for fans of Lawrence Durrell's Corfu classic _Prospero's Cell_. The Durrell family lived in Kal\u00e1mi in the 1930s \u2013 in the large property on the shore called _White House_. The four-bedroomed building can be rented as a holiday house; the Durrell family's dining table is still there! _(www.white-house-corfu.gr | Budget)_. There is now a good taverna on the ground floor _(daily | Budget)_\n\nThe 250 m-long pebble-and-stone beach is relatively small for so many summer holidaymakers. However, there is a track from here to _Gialisk\u00e1ri Beach_ in the north where there are a lot less people on the pebbly beach and rocks. This is also an interesting underwater world for snorkelers. _11 km (6.8 mi) from Kassi\u00f3pi_\n\n## KAMIN\u00c1KI BEACH\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map)\n\nThe much-photographed shingle beach, measuring just 100 \u00d7 15 m, lies in front of a tiny coastal settlement with two tavernas ( _Budget_ ) and a water-sport business _(www.kaminakiboats.com)_ that also rents out motorboats without a skipper. There are around 60 loungers under 30 sunshades on the beach, but there is always enough space for your towel if you prefer.\n\n## KUL\u00daRA\n\nRoad Atlas [127 F3]\n\nThe semi-oval harbour basin in front of the fortified country seat from the 16th century in Kul\u00fara is one of Corfu's standard postcard images. It is worth taking a photo but a waste of time driving down to the harbour where there are hardly any parking spaces. The house has belonged to an Italian family since 1986 and is off-limits to holidaymakers. _10 km (6.2 mi) from Kassi\u00f3pi_\n\n# PALEOKASTR\u00cdTSA, L\u00c1KONES & LIAP\u00c1DES\n\nRoad Atlas [126 B\u2013C4] | Google Map)\n\n### Paleokastr\u00edtsa, which actually forms part of the mountain village of L\u00e1kones, and the coastal settlement of another mountain village, Liap\u00e1des, both lie in a large bay.\n\nIt is separated into a series of smaller bays by several rocky headlands. The coast is mainly stony, but there are some small sandy beaches \u2013 many of which can only be reached by boat. The lush green stretches all the way down to the water's edge and slopes rise up several hundred metres into the hinterland.\n\nMany Corfiots consider _Paleokastr\u00edtsa_ the most beautiful spot on earth. There is no village centre as such, the hotels, houses and tavernas being loosely scattered in a magnificent landscape and are often hidden between olive groves and cypresses. You will need to walk for about 3.5 km (2.2 mi) if you want to see all of Paleokastr\u00edtsa.\n\nThe most beautiful view of the bay is from the large   mountain village of _L\u00e1kones_ that is also called the 'balcony of the Ionian Sea'. Most of the caf\u00e9s and restaurants have generous terraces offering panoramic views. A 40-minute   walk along a path through an olive grove will take you down to Paleokastr\u00edtsa; the serpentine road is about 6 km (3.7 mi) long.\n\nLiap\u00e1des on the other hand is around 1000 m from the coast and has no view of the sea. A holiday settlement stretches from the old village to Liap\u00e1des Beach on the bay. The small village square is really charming, being bordered by the terraces of five traditional caf\u00e9s and the bell tower of the village church. The farmers still make their way across the square with their donkeys.\n\n### Paleokastr\u00edtsa and the adjoining coastal areas are among the most beautiful on Corfu\n\n---\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n##   PANAG\u00cdA THEOT\u00d3KU TIS PALEO-KASTR\u00cdTSAS MONASTERY\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe white monastery of the 'The Holy Bearer of God of Paleokastr\u00edtsa' perches high above the sea on a steep cliff at the end of the bay. With its magnificent view, shady arcades, courtyard full of flowers and beautiful church, it is one of the major and most-visited attractions on Corfu. Three monks still live here accompanied by several elderly and handicapped people who spend their summer holidays with them.\n\nThe monastery was founded in the 12th century; however the present building was erected in the 18th. You can see God the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost in the form of a white dove painted on the ceiling of the single-nave church. The church's most precious icon has been placed at the front on the left-hand wall. The work only measures 43 \u00d7 33 cm and shows three Fathers of the Church identifiable by their stoles decorated with crosses. Behind them, there is a depiction of a dramatic event that actually occurred in Corfu on the feast day of these three saints, on 30 January, in 1653. A firework that had been lit in their honour exploded while a nurse holding a child in her arms was standing nearby. As if by miracle, the child remained uninjured although the nurse was killed. She can be seen clearly in the right-hand section of the painting. Blood is pouring out of her side, she falls to the ground while still holding the child in her arms. The child's parents donated the icon as a sign of their gratitude to the saints for this (modest) miracle; the text to the right of the strip of pictures gives a detailed description of the occurrence.\n\nThere are two other icons at the back of the church on the left-hand and right-hand walls. They were painted in 1713 and illustrate four scenes of the Creation. _April\u2013Oct daily 7am\u20131pm and 3\u20138pm; the best time to visit is before 9am and after 5pm when the hordes of tourists have left the church. Whatever you do, don't park in the spaces reserved for buses \u2013 the drivers will block you in mercilessly! | Entrance free_\n\n### Tourist magnet: the romantic monastery Pan\u00e1gia Theot\u00f3ku tis Paleokastr\u00edtsas\n\n---\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## CASTELINO\n\nNot only can you look down onto Paleokastr\u00edtsa Bay from the highest restaurant in the region, you can also see all the way to K\u00e9rkyra and the Greek mainland. The proprietors Sp\u00edros and Fr\u00f3sso Chal\u00edkia serve what is probably the island's best walnut cake _(karid\u00f3pitta)_ and many other homemade Corfiot specialities on the several floors of their restaurant. _Daily | Above the road from L\u00e1kones to Makr\u00e1des, park on the road | Expensive_\n\n## HORIZON\n\nTaverna with a lovely panoramic terrace and very friendly service. If you ask, you can have boiled potatoes as a side dish instead of the omnipresent chips. _Daily | On the main road, next to Hotel Odysseus | Moderate_\n\n# SHOPPING\n\n## \u00c1LKIS\n\nSince 1986 Mr Alkib\u00edade has passionately devoted himself to his search for beautifully grained olive wood to create unique objects after his own designs. He is considered the most gifted olive-wood carver on the island. _L\u00e1kones | On the left as you exit the village on the road to M\u00e1krades_\n\n## STREET MARKET\n\n****\n\nDuring the tourist season, the top end of the road to Panag\u00eda Theot\u00f3ku ti Paleokastr\u00edtsas Monastery and the square in front of it turn into a large street market every morning at around 10am when Africans sell arts and crafts from their native countries and Corfiots painted objects of all sorts. The stones painted with Corfiot motifs by Il\u00eda Sigouro\u00fa make nice little gifts and only cost from 3 euros upwards. She will sign them on the back if you want and can usually be found on the tiny lookout platform in front of the church opposite the caf\u00e9 ( _Moderate_ ) from whose terrace you have a wonderful view of the steep coastline and Angel\u00f3kastro Castle.\n\n# BEACHES\n\nThe pebble beaches in the three large bays _Ambel\u00e1ki_ , _Sp\u00edridon_ and _Al\u00edpa_ are easy to reach. Flights of steps lead from the main road down to other smaller pebbly bays. _Liap\u00e1des'_ shingle beach is around 150 km (9.3 mi) long. None of them are really ideal for children. Boat taxis leave from _Sp\u00edridon Beach_ , the pier in front of the La Grotta Bar, the harbour at _Al\u00edpa Beach_ and _Liap\u00e1des Beach_ for the numerous other sandy and shingle bays that can only be reached from the sea. If you wish, you can rent a motorboat with up to 30 HP \u2013 and you don't need a licence.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n142 steps lead from the main road opposite Hotel Paleokastr\u00edtsa to a small bar in an artificial grotto made of volcanic rock. Here, you can listen to the owner's favourite music or soak up the sound of the sea. _Daily | Paleokastr\u00edtsa_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n## AKROTIRI BEACH\n\nThis five-storey hotel \u2013 with its fresh-water swimming pool high above one of the many lovely bays in Paleokastr\u00edtsa \u2013 can be seen from afar. The small shingle beach with water-sport facilities can be reached via a small flight of steps. _127 rooms | On the main road | tel. 26 63 04 12 75 |www.akotriri-beach.com | Expensive_\n\n## GOLDEN FOX\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nFor motorised holidaymakers who don't necessarily want to stay near the beach, there is probably no lovelier accommodation in northern Corfu than _Golden Fox's_ six studios. Four of them have a   balcony with a view of the sea, as well as the bays in Paleokastr\u00edtsa and Angel\u00f3kastro Castle. The complex high above the sea also has a good restaurant, a bar, a large souvenir shop and a beautifully designed freshwater pool. Unfortunately, however, the rooms are only simply equipped. _11 studios | On the road from L\u00e1kones to Makr\u00e1des | tel. 26 63 04 91 01 |www.corfugoldenfox.com | Moderate\u2013Expensive_\n\n## LIAP\u00c1DES EACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\n100 m from the beach and 1500 m from the centre of the village, with pool and a very good hotel restaurant. _50 rooms | On the road to the beach | tel. 26 63 \u200b04 \u200b12 94 | Budget_\n\n |\n\n## VILLA FIORITA STUDIOS\n\n---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nGuesthouse with a large garden run by the friendly Lo\u00falis family. 100 m from the sea, two minutes from a bus stop. _15 studios away from the main road in the village | tel. 26 63 04 13 52 | fiorita@shms.gr | Moderate_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n##    ANGEL\u00d3KASTRO\n\nRoad Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map)\n\nThe ruins of this Byzantine-Venetian 'Angels' Castle' stand high above the west coast on a mountain peak with steep slopes on all sides. Until the last Turkish invasion of the island in 1716, this repeatedly offered refuge to the population of northern Corfu when enemies or pirates approached. Nobody was ever able to conquer Angel\u00f3kastro. A tarmac road leads from Makr\u00e1des to a car park 700 metres beyond Krin\u00ed at the foot of the castle hill. You'll have to walk up a steep path for the last 7 to 10 minutes but you will be rewarded with a wonderful view for your effort. _Tue\u2013Sun 8am\u20133pm | Entrance free | 5.5 km (3.4 mi) from L\u00e1kones_\n\n### Perfectly built on the top of a cliff: Angel\u00f3kastro Castle\n\n---\n\n## MAKR\u00c1DES\n\nRoad Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map)\n\nMakr\u00e1des (pop. 300) is a large mountain village with many old houses and narrow lanes. Nowhere else on Corfu have so many inhabitants specialised in selling herbs and local table wine as here. Fierce competition forces them to make furious attempts to stop any passing car! In the Colombo Taverna _(daily | Budget)_ on the village square there is a more than 200-year-old olive press and you can sample many Corfiot specialities and all kinds of meat from the charcoal grill. _3 km (1.9 mi) from L\u00e1kones_\n\n## V\u00cdSTONAS\n\nRoad Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map)\n\nThe mountain village (population 160) itself, on the road from Makr\u00e1des to the Trumb\u00e9tta Pass and located in the midst of olive groves, has little of interest as such.\n\nHowever, the most delightful wine stand on the island can be found not far away on the road to P\u00e1gi     _To Chelid\u00f3ni_ \u2013 which means 'the swallow'. Panaj\u00f3tis Kor\u00edkis and his wife can be found here every day from 10am onwards at their picturesque tables \u2013 set with loving care \u2013 opposite their vineyards. They will let you taste their semi-sweet red and fruity dry white table wine before you buy it; they also sell local walnuts, as well as olive oil and herbs at reasonable prices. _6 km (3.7 mi) from L\u00e1kones, turn left at the sign on the outskirts of the village._\n\n  Live economically: the 10 apartments at _Harry's Bar_ in Achar\u00e1vi Road Atlas [127 D1] are simple but spacious. _Tel. 26 63 06 30 38, mobile 69 74 91 66 37 | Studios from 25 euros |www.harrysbar-apartments.com_\n\n  A cheap swim: there are reduced prices in the _Hydropolis_ fun pool near Achar\u00e1vi Road Atlas [127 D1] after 3.30pm. Adults only pay 10 euros and children (5\u201312 years) 6 euros _(address see p. 197)_.\n\n### Photo: Olive grove in the south of the island\n\n---\n\n##   HIGHLIGHTS | \u00c1GIOS GE\u00d3RGIOS ARGIR\u00c1DON | \u00c1GIOS G\u00d3RDIS | MESSONG\u00cd-MORA\u00cdTIKA\n\n### Hills covered with olive groves stretch across most of the area between \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis, Ben\u00edtses and Cape Aspr\u00f3kavos on Corfu. And, the west coast in particular is lined with miles of sandy beaches.\n\nLake Kor\u00edssion, the largest on the island, and the former salt-works near Lefk\u00edmi are unique landscapes with a character of their very own. There is also an unusual sight between the two seaside resorts of Messong\u00ed and Mora\u00edtika, as well as in Lefk\u00edmi, where fishing boats are not moored directly along the coast but in romantic river harbours. The south of the island, however, does not have many historical sights to offer. This is the place to enjoy the great outdoors and the pristine state of many villages and beaches. The holiday centres at Messong\u00ed and Mora\u00edtika are the only areas affected by mass tourism. Once you are away from them, you will find many tranquil coastal towns and villages dotted along Corfu's south coast.\n\n    | Lake Kor\u00edssion    \n---|---\n\nFull of fish and with a long sandy beach\n\n  | Alon\u00e1ki    \n---|---\n\nGood food in a wonderful garden setting in Chalik\u00fanas\n\n  | Param\u00f3nas    \n---|---\n\nA peaceful beach resort with small hotels and good tavernas\n\n  | T\u00e1ssos Village Grill   \n---|---\n\nYou will find the best lamb chops in Mora\u00edtika\n\n  | Sp\u00edros Kar\u00eddis' Fish Taverna    \n---|---\n\nThis taverna in B\u00fakari serves fresh fish of the highest quality\n\n  | Chl\u00f3mos   \n---|---\n\nAn impressive mountain village of tiled-roofed buildings with magnificent panoramic views\n\n# \u00c1GIOS GE\u00d3RGIOS ARGIR\u00c1DON\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B\u2013C 4\u20135]\n\n### Seven kilometres (4.3 mi) of sandy beach \u2013 without any shade and still undiscovered by deckchair and umbrella hawkers \u2013 can be found between \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Argir\u00e1don, which is also known as \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios South, (pop. 500) and the few houses in Chalik\u00fanas. Fringed by high dunes, it is a little bit like a beach on the North Sea in Denmark.\n\nYou will not see wooded mountains behind the beach as you do elsewhere on Corfu but a steppe-like coastal plain with the large Lake Kor\u00edssion that is rich in eels. \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios itself is a holiday resort stretching along the coast for almost 3 km (1.9 mi) but without any real centre. The neighbouring village of Chalik\u00fanas is made up of a few guesthouses and three tavernas. Those seeking peace and quiet will feel at home in Chalik\u00fanas, while those who want at least a little entertainment and nightlife will prefer \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios.\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n##   LAKE KOR\u00cdSSION\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B\u2013C4]\n\nThe lake is 5 km (3.1 mi) long and up to 1000 m wide and is separated from the sea by a strip of sand and dunes but connected to it by a narrow, natural channel. Depending on the tides and direction of the wind, water either flows into the lake or back into the sea. This keeps the lake clean and attracts many fish. The channel is crossed by a bridge making tours around the lake by mountainbike or on foot possible.\n\n### Only a small strip of land separates Lake Kor\u00edssion from the sea\n\n---\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n##   ALON\u00c1KI\n\nYou will feel like you are in the Garden of Eden when you sit in this idyllic taverna above the small bay with its sandy beach to the north of the long dune beach at Chalik\u00fanas. A myna bird chatters and laughs in its aviary, cats vie for your attention and swallows nest under the wooden roof of the terrace. Apricots and figs fall almost directly into your mouth. The innkeeper's family serves delicacies including rabbit _stif\u00e1do_ , _sk\u00f3rpios bourd\u00e9to_ and stuffed cabbage leaves \u2013 _lachanodolm\u00e1des_. _Daily | Well signposted, on the road to Chalik\u00fanas beach | Budget_\n\n |\n\n## O KAF\u00c9SAS\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nIn the most unusual taverna in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios, you sit on terraces above a little-used road with a view of the sea. \u00c1kis the proprietor and his wife from New Zealand, Miriam, have decorated the taverna tastefully. The bread comes straight out of the clay oven; the vegetables, olive oil and chickens are from their farm and they even smoke the fish themselves. The mixed pickles \u2013 _tours\u00ed \u2013_ are in a league of their own and the _bourd\u00e9to_ is made with stingray. There is usually live Greek music on Saturday evening. _Daily | On the coast road, to the south of the village | Moderate_\n\n# BEACHES\n\nIn addition to the 7 km (4.3 mi) _Chalik\u00fanas Beach_ , you can also bathe on the narrow sandy beach that runs along the entire south half of \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Argir\u00e1don beneath the low but steep coastline. A sandy beach of around 200 m continues to the north of the main beach at Chalik\u00fanas below Pension Alon\u00e1ki. This is not only a meeting place for good surfers but also kite surfers as the only kite-surf facility on Corfu is in _Caf\u00e9 Harley_.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## HARLEY\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis cafe is open all day and develops into a lively meeting place for surfers in the evening. This is where they not only talk shop and listen to good music but also play _t\u00e1vli_ and 'KoJa' golf \u2013 a natural kind of miniature golf developed by the owners. _Daily | At the north end of the coast road_\n\n## MANGO BAR\n\nComfy sofas in colourful surroundings invite you to chill-out with cocktails and a sea view in the evening. _Daily | At the north end of the coast road_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n |\n\n## ALON\u00c1KI\n\n---|---\n\nThe proprietor, who speaks English, rents 15 rooms and apartments above her tavern of the same name and in the building next door. This is the only place where you can try the small, crisply fried, crabs from Lake Kor\u00edssion. Not the normal taverna fare but Corfiot cuisine just like the cook would serve her guests at home. _Tel. 26 61 07 58 72; in winter 26 62 07 61 19 | Budget_\n\n## GOLDEN SANDS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nTwo-storey hotel with a large pool area on the coast road in the southern part of \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios. Laid-back atmosphere, spacious balconies; guests who want to spend just one night are also welcome. _78 rooms | tel. 26 62 05 12 25 | Budget_\n\n## MARIN-CHRISTEL\n\nSmall, charming and well-looked-after apartment complex owned by a Greek doctor; absolute peace and quiet but without any shade. Approx. 10 minutes walk to the beach. _7 apartments | tel. 26 62 07 59 47 | Moderate_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## GARD\u00cdKI\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B4] | Google Map)\n\nThe 13th-century Byzantine castle (free access), with its octagonal defence wall and towers of quarried stone with rows of brick, is the most important historical site in the southern part of the island. You can clamber around its (unsecured) walls. Concert and theatre performances are held here in July.\n\nWhen you travel on to Lake Kor\u00edssion, past fields of flowers, you will come to   Livadi\u00f3tis _Winery_ _(daily 10am\u2013\u200b2pm)_. The owner, Sot\u00edris Livadi\u00f3tis, is a passionate winegrower who only produces around 20,000 bottles of dry red and white wine every year. Of course, you can taste the wine and visit the cellars. These have not been spruced up for visitors but have kept their very rural, very Greek and somewhat unkempt, natural character. _13 km (8.1 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios_\n\n## K\u00c1VOS\n\nRoad Atlas [129 F5\u20136] | Google Map)\n\nEvery year, the most southerly town on Corfu (pop. 850) is pounced upon by the Greek press and private television. Together with Falir\u00e1ki on Rhodes and M\u00e1lia on Crete, K\u00e1vos, with its mainly young tourists, forms what the Greeks consider an 'unholy' trinity. Those who are less discrete, simply describe K\u00e1vos as the 'British party mile'. You will not find much relaxation here but any number of clubs, restaurants and bars. _22 km (13.7 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios | English website:www.kavos.biz_\n\n### Lefk\u00edmi: boats moored side by side in the little riverside harbour\n\n---\n\n## LEFK\u00cdMI\n\nRoad Atlas [129 E5] | Google Map)\n\nThe River Chimar\u00f3s flows through Lefk\u00edmi \u2013 with a population of 3500, the largest town in the south. It is wide and deep enough to be used by the small sport and fishing boats that are anchored in the centre of the village. Starting at the bridge over the river, a road runs along the right bank to the sandy beach at Lefk\u00edmi that is mainly used by the locals. The only taverna in this town that is still almost untouched by tourism is located near the bridge. The former saltworks at Al\u00fdkes on a bay with a narrow sandy beach is also part of Lefk\u00edmi. The shore here is extremely flat and even small children can swim far out and still be able to touch the bottom. _16 km (9.9 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios_\n\n## MARATHI\u00c1S\n\nRoad Atlas [129 D5] | Google Map)\n\nSmall inland village with a cul-de-sac leading down to the beach of the same name. It is miles long and its fine sand shimmers a light red in the sun. _9 km (5.6 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios_\n\n## PERIV\u00d3LI\n\nRoad Atlas [129 D5] | Google Map)\n\nYou can reach the coastal hamlet of _\u00c1gia Varv\u00e1ra_ , known locally as Santa Barbara, from this large inland village (pop. 1400). The sandy beach is more than 1000 m long and joins up with the next beach at Marathi\u00e1s. Apartments and holiday homes for rent. _13 km (8.1 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios_\n\n## VITAL\u00c1DES\n\nRoad Atlas [129 D5]\n\nA dead-end leads from Vital\u00e1des to the young seaside resort of   _Gard\u00e9nos_ with its peaceful beach of fine sand, two tavernas and several guesthouses including the _Sp\u00edti Xif\u00edas (8 rooms | tel. 26 62 02 43 74 | Budget)._ Signposts will point you in the direction of the _'Virgin Beaches' P\u00e9rka_ and _Meg\u00e1li Laki\u00e1_. From   _Gard\u00e9nos Beach_ there is a fine view of P\u00e1xos Island. _14 km (8.7 mi) from \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios_\n\n# \u00c1GIOS G\u00d3RDIS\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B2] | Google Map)\n\n### High mountain slopes with striking rock formations soar up from both ends of the long, sandy beach at \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis (also known as \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdios).\n\nThe bay is bordered to the south by a rocky pinnacle, the _Orth\u00f3lithos_ , rising out of the water. This gives \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis its unique atmosphere. The village is only a tourist resort in summer and in autumn its inhabitants move back up to their native villages of _K\u00e1to Gar\u00fana_ and _Sinar\u00e1des_. Most of the tavernas and shops are located on the 120 m-long main road to the beach.\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## LINDA'S\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe owner and cook Frideriki serves her guests good, home-style Greek cooking. _Daily, evenings only | On the main road to the beach | Moderate_\n\n## TH\u00c1LASSA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nFamily-run, beach taverna with pizza from a stone oven and many homemade dishes. Friendly service by the owner. _Daily | On the beach | Budget_\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## ARK BEACH CAF\u00c9\n\nThe most stylish beach bar in town. Sun beds during the day; chill out at sun-set. _Daily from 9am | Southern beach section_\n\n## MIKE'S DANCING PUB\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe place where young holidaymakers in the village meet late in the evening. _Daily from 6pm | At the junction bus stop_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n## DAND\u00cdDIS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nStudios and apartments, especial-ly suitable for small children, in a house on the beach. _14 rooms | Middle beach section | tel. 26 61 \u200b05 32 32 |www.dandidis.com | Moderate_\n\n## ROMANTIC VIEW\n\nThe rooms are different in size and price, but most have a balcony with a sea view; there is a large terrace with a pool, whirlpool, paddling pool and an open-air restaurant (not only for hotel guests). 10 min walk downhill \u2013 15 min uphill \u2013 from the beach. _80 rooms | On the road to Sinar\u00e1des | tel. 26 61 05 43 51 | Moderate_\n\n## SENSIMAR AGIOS GORDIOS\n\nWhat makes this hotel so unique is its breathtaking location between the rocks on the coast and the bizarre pinnacle of stone behind the complex. The sand-and-pebble beach is short and narrow \u2013 there is in fact more room around the pool \u2013 but it is only a brief walk to the long beach in the village. Quite large rooms (21\u201323 m\u00b2). Taken over by the Sensimar Group in 2009, the hotel is run on an obligatory, all-inclusive policy. The hotel does not accept bookings for under 18-year-olds \u2013 even in the company of their parents. _264 rooms | Can only be booked through a travel agent |www.sensimar.com | Expensive_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c1GIOS MATTHE\u00d3S\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B3]\n\nThe large mountain village (pop. 1450) is located in an especially fertile high-lying valley without a view of the sea. Most of its inhabitants live from olive cultivation. A track, that is only suitable for 4\u00d74s, leads up to _Pantokr\u00e1toras Monastery_ \u2013 that is no longer used \u2013 5 km (3.1 mi) away. _10 km (6.2 mi) from \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis_\n\n##   PARAM\u00d3NAS\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B3] | Google Map)\n\nThis coastal settlement, with only a few houses and a 300 m-long sand-and-shingle beach, is part of the parish of \u00c1gios Matthe\u00f3s. People looking for peace and quiet stay in Sunset Pension with its friendly service _(6 rooms | tel. 26 61 \u200b07 \u200b51 49 | Budget)_ or _Param\u00f3nas Hotel (22 rooms | tel. 26 61 07 56 95 |www.paramonas-hotel.de | Moderate)._   The modern _Sk\u00e1la_ has one of the most beautiful gardens on the island and a small pool _(10 rooms | tel. 26 61 07 50 32 and 26 61 \u200b07 51 08 | Moderate)_. _Pl\u00f3ri_ Restaurant is located directly on the beach about 80 m from this guesthouse and 100 m to the south of Sunset _(daily | Budget). 13 km (8.1 mi) from \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis_\n\n## PEND\u00c1TI\n\nRoad Atlas [128 A\u2013B2] | Google Map)\n\nIf you stay in \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis, you should take the 20\u201330 minute walk up to the unspoiled mountain village of Pend\u00e1ti (pop. 500) at least once. The     view from _Chris' Place_ Snackbar is breathtaking and the moussak\u00e1 very good. _11 km (6.8 mi) from \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis by road; 2 km (1.2 mi) on foot_.\n\nThe Corfiots feel that the sea is the best pantry. At home, they usually eat small, inexpensive fish but when they go out, only the best is good enough. And they always order more than they can eat. Fish is a cult object; it has -religious significance as the symbol of Christ and is a healthy food. These are just two reasons that make fish farming one of the most important -economic pillars on the Ionian Islands. The more than 500 Greek fish farms even deliver to restaurants and markets in Germany and Italy. Fish that are not to be found in local waters are imported from Thailand, Indonesia and South America. The scampi the Greeks love so much are just as fresh in many -countries in northern Europe. If you want to try -regional fish, you should limit yourself to small _g\u00f3pes, g\u00e1vri_ and _mar\u00eddes_. These are often caught by small trawlers sailing from Corfiot harbours.\n\n# MESSONG\u00cd-MORA\u00cdTIKA\n\nRoad Atlas [128 C3\u20134] | Google Map)\n\n### A small river separates Messong\u00ed (pop. 290) from Mora\u00edtika (pop. 600) and flows into the sea near the bridge connecting the two villages. Fishing and excursion boats moor on both banks.\n\nYou will search in vain for anything old in the historical centre of Messong\u00ed that runs parallel to the beach. The main axis of Mora\u00edtika is formed by the busy road to the south of the island. Large hotel complexes have been built on the sea side. The houses of the old village of Morait\u00edka and several tavernas line the slope on the land side.\n\n### Mesong\u00ed and Mora\u00edtaki have merged to make one popular holiday resort\n\n---\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## 75 STEPS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nRestaurant in a lush setting with a roof terrace and view of the sea and mountains. _Daily | 1800 m past the bridge on the road to Chl\u00f3mos | Moderate_\n\n## MARILENA\n\nSmall, unpretentious taverna shaded by trees and run by a multi-lingual owner. Fresh, mainly regional, food and excellent value for money. _Daily, in the evening | At the southern end of Messong\u00ed Beach |www.bacchus.gr | Budget_\n\n##   T\u00c1SSOS VILLAGE GRILL\n\nThis modest taverna in the old centre of Mora\u00edtika has a lot of enthusiastic regular guests. T\u00e1ssos, the proprietor, grills delicate lamb and juicy pork chops next to the tables on the terrace; his sons, K\u00f3stas and Sp\u00edros (a former banker), take care of the service and chat with the guests. Their fisherman friends from the village bring their latest catch. It is a good idea to come early to avoid waiting. Excellent value for money and the view from the roof terrace reaches down to the sea. _Daily, in the evening | Mora\u00edtika | Budget_\n\n## ZAKS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nVegetarian dishes and flamb\u00e9 steaks are served on a flower-decked terrace. Zachar\u00edas, the owner, learned his art in England and Switzerland. _Daily, in the evening | Messong\u00ed, on the main road near the bridge | Expensive_\n\n# BEACHES\n\nThe beach in Mora\u00edtika is wider than the one in Messong\u00ed \u2013 both are mainly coarse sand and shingle. In Messong\u00ed, it is bordered by an almost endless row of small tavernas; the bars and tavernas in Mora\u00edtika are more spread out and you will not feel that you are lying directly in front of a row of houses. How-ever, neither village has a shore promenade. Attempts have been made to remedy this in Mora\u00edtika by creating a wooden boardwalk. Excursion boats offering day tours to the island of P\u00e1xos, the rocky Greek mainland and K\u00e9rkyra depart from the harbour at the mouth of the River Messong\u00ed.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## VERY COCO\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nDisco bar with swimming pool. Excellent strawberry daiquiris, international mainstream and, occasionally, Greek music. _Daily from 9pm | Main island road_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n |\n\n## CHRISTINA\n\n---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis friendly modern hotel directly on the beach at Messong\u00ed is popular and usual-ly only accepts guests who stay for at least one week. Beach freaks will like the A-category rooms: open the terrace door and you are on the beach and then straight in the water. _16 rooms | Messong\u00ed | Access from the coast road | tel. 26 61 \u200b07 \u200b67 71 |www.hotel\u200b-christina.gr | Moderate_\n\n## MESSONG\u00cd BEACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nSpacious, old-style hotel complex on the beach with one seawater and three freshwater pools, three tennis courts and a diving school. Organised activities for children. _828 rooms | tel. 26 61 07 68 84 |www.messonghibeach.gr | Expensive_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c1GII D\u00c9KA\n\nRoad Atlas [128 B2] | Google Map)\n\nThe village of the 'Ten Saints' (pop. 180) lies high up on a mountain slope crowned by a white radar dome that can be seen from afar. A 3.5 km (2.2 mi) long track (cemented at the beginning) that 4\u00d74s can negotiate, leads up to it. _Pantokr\u00e1toras Monastery_ , now only inhabited by cats _(free access)_ is located a few hundred metres away from the radar dome at the other end of the plateau in the middle of a grove of fig, walnut and cherry trees. There is a small modern chapel dedicated to the Prophet Elijah a few steps above the monastery from where there is a magnificent view of the west coast of Corfu and Lake Kor\u00edssion. _17 km (10.6 mi) from Messong\u00ed_\n\n### Shark jaws and coral are on display in the small shell museum in Ben\u00edtses\n\n---\n\n## BEN\u00cdTSES\n\nRoad Atlas [128 C2] | Google Map)\n\nThe former fishing village is now a holiday resort (pop. 800) with too many people crowding the small beach. The car park at the harbour leaves a lot to be desired. Those interested in archaeology can visit the scant remains of the _baths of a Roman villa_ from the 2nd century AD. Sections of the outer walls are 4 m high and it is still possible to recognise the pool _(free access | Sign-posted from the northern car park on the coast road)._\n\nThere is a small private Shell Museum at the northern end of Ben\u00edtses _(daily 10am\u2013\u200b6pm; 8pm in July and August | Entrance 4 euros |www.corfushellmuseum.com)_ that displays shells from all over the world as well as sharks' jaws and coral. The owner, Napoleon Sag\u00edas, is usually on hand to explain everything to his visitors. _8 km (5 mi) from Messong\u00ed_\n\n## B\u00daKARI\n\nRoad Atlas [129 D4] | Google Map)\n\nThe small fishing harbour (pop. 50) on the east coast is one of the quietest places on Corfu. It is only about a 1\u00be hour walk from Messong\u00ed along the little-used coast road. The small shingle beach at B\u00fakari slopes gently into the sea and shade is provided by tamarisk trees. Its fish tavernas make B\u00fakari a popular destination for the Corfiots at weekends.   _Sp\u00edros Karidis' Fish Taverna_ , directly on the harbour, is especially popular _(daily | Expensive)_. The proprietor always has a fine selection of fresh fish and lobster on hand, cooks an excellent _bourd\u00e9to_ that is almost like a fish soup, and serves wine straight from the barrel, which goes down really well. You are welcome to pick your dessert directly from the fruit trees in the garden. _6 km (3.7 mi) from Messong\u00ed_\n\n##   CHL\u00d3MOS\n\nRoad Atlas [128 C4] | Google Map)\n\nChl\u00f3mos has only 700 inhabitants and is one of the loveliest mountain villages in the south of the island. The view of its tiled roofs from   _Taxi\u00e1rchis Church_ at the top of the village is especially captivating. The     _Balis_ Taverna near the coast on the edge of the village offers a fine view of Chl\u00f3mos _(daily | Budget)_ ; it is also a good place for a drink. _5 km (3.1 mi) from Messong\u00ed_\n\n## PETR\u00cdTI\n\nRoad Atlas [129 D4] | Google Map)\n\nLarge boats frequently drop anchor at the fishing harbour of this hamlet (pop. 100) on the west coast. They are on the look out for sardines and anchovies and \u2013 as is often the case with big fishing boats in Greece \u2013 most of the crew are Egyptian from villages in the Nile Delta. Fish is still relatively inexpensive in the village tavernas. A strange rock with three crosses and the Greek and Byzantine flags lies just off the narrow beach. A former local policeman, who often sits on a self-made raft near the island and sings, erected them along with a small model of a church. This is to remind people that the small island was once the site of a church dedicated to St. Nicholas that is, today, completely in ruins.\n\nThe 70 m long, sandy _N\u00f3tos Beach_ lies on the other side of the rocky island at the south end of the village. An old olive grove reaches down to the shore. The food in the     _Pan\u00f3rama_ taverna _(Budget)_ above the beach is excellent and the deckchairs on the shore can be used free of charge. The small garden on the gentle slope between the taverna and sea is one of the loveliest on the island and you will feel like you are in a private villa by the sea. The owners, Than\u00e1ssis Vagi\u00e1s and his wife \u00cdna, rent 15 spacious apartments in a tranquil house with the flair of traditional Corfiot island life about 100 m further inland _(Tel. 26 62 05 17 07 |www.panoramacorfu.gr | Budget)_.\n\nYou can live well in the _Hotel Petr\u00edti_ in a small, very green, high-lying inland valley. Four two-storey buildings with tiled roofs are grouped around a pool; the hotel bus takes you to the various beaches, free of charge, several times a day. The owner's family takes great care of its guests and is happy to organise transfers to the airport. The cockcrow in the morning is another of the rural charms _(32 rooms | Between Petr\u00edti and Vasisl\u00e1tika | tel. 26 62 05 21 32 |www.regina-hotel.de | Moderate). 15 km (9.3 mi) from Messong\u00ed_\n\n    Pools for all: many small hotels and apartment complexes, such as Pension \u00c9grypos in Petr\u00edti [Road Atlas [129 D4]](30_fm_road-atlas.html#roadatlas129), Hotel Golden Sands in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Argir\u00e1don [Road Atlas [128 C5]](30_fm_road-atlas.html#roadatlas128) and Hotel Romantic View in \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis [Road Atlas [128 B2]](30_fm_road-atlas.html#roadatlas128), also welcome guests who are not staying there but have something to eat or drink at the pool, which they can then use free of charge.\n\n  Cheap trips to the mainland: the ferries from Lefk\u00edmi Road Atlas [129 E5] to Igoumen\u00edtsa are cheaper than those departing from Corfu Town. You save around 2.50 euros per person and 9 euros per car for a single crossing.\n\n### Photo: Mirtiotissa Beach\n\n---\n\n##   HIGHLIGHTS | DAFN\u00cdLA & DASSI\u00c1 | GUVI\u00c1 & KONTOK\u00c1LI | P\u00c9LEKAS, GLIF\u00c1DA & MIRTI\u00d3TISSA\n\n### Most of the island's large, luxury hotels are located in the broad bay between K\u00e9rkyra and Pantokr\u00e1tor. But, only the birds see that. The massive hotel blocks that are found on other Mediterranean shores are completely missing on Corfu's coasts.\n\nEven the larger complexes are well hidden between lush greenery, or separated from each other by gently rolling hills or coastal bays. Here, you will be able to spend your holidays in park-like surroundings on the seashore. Most of the beaches are narrow and usually pebbly, but the hotels offset this with spacious, beautiful sunbathing lawns and pool terraces. The sheltered bays are particularly attractive for waterskiing and paragliding. The beaches slope gradually into the water and are well suited for children (with bathing shoes) and many hotels and water-sport facilities have built wooden jetties that can be used for sunbathing. If you want to take a swim, ladders make it easier to access deeper water directly.\n\nA tourist infrastructure with tavernas, caf\u00e9s, souvenir shops, supermarkets and bars has developed in those areas that only come alive in summer. But the island's capital, with its shopping and cultural opportunities, is not far away. Inexpensive buses run until late in the night and night owls can take a taxi home for a relatively low fare.\n\nThe west coast in central Corfu is completely different in character to the eastern side of the island. Lovely old villages like P\u00e9lekas \u2013 once a favourite among the hippie crowd in its day and still a popular destination for backpackers now \u2013 and Sinir\u00e1des nestle on the hills further inland and there are a number of no-through-roads that wind their way down to long, wide and very inviting sandy beaches. Hotel settlements such as Gl\u00edfada and \u00c9rmones, with its good water-sport centre, diving school and (perhaps rather surprisingly) the only golf course on the Ionian Islands, as well as many other facilities, have sprung up at the ends of these beaches. There is still no tarmac road, only a gruelling dirt and cement path, down to the beach at Mirti\u00f3tis. And the only substantial building as such near the beach is a monastery \u2013 and that's at the far end of the beach which is particularly popular among nudists.\n\n    | Ipap\u00e1nti Church   \n---|---\n\nJust as photogenic, but not as well-known as the one famous Mouse Island\n\n  | Dassi\u00e1 Beach    \n---|---\n\nAn affordable hotel right on the beach\n\n  | Grecotel Corfu Imperial    \n---|---\n\nReal luxury with your own private pool and yacht mooring in Dafn\u00edla\n\n  | Kaiser's Throne    \n---|---\n\nA majestic place to watch the sun set\n\n  | Sandy beach at Mirti\u00f3tissa    \n---|---\n\nParadise \u2013 bathe like Adam and Eve on the 300 m-long sandy beach\n\n  | Levant    \n---|---\n\nThe hotel with its unique hillside location offers rooms with panoramic views\n\n  | Folklore Museum in Sinar\u00e1des    \n---|---\n\nIn this museum you can see how the Corfiots used to live \u2013 and enjoy local specialities in the -charming mountain village\n\n# DAFN\u00cdLA & DASSI\u00c1\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D4] | Google Map)\n\n### Dafn\u00edla, on a lush, green hilly peninsula, and Dassi\u00e1 to its north form Corfu's most luxurious holiday region.\n\nHere, the hotels are not located directly on the beach but high above the sea amid the vegetation. Parachutes float over the water, water-skiers and banana-riders circle the beaches. 'Relaxing in comfort' is the motto \u2013 and this applies especially to the spa areas in the complexes. There is no use looking for historical village centres here but you can still find a great deal of local charm in the villages in the hinterland that can also be explored on horseback.\n\n### Picturesquely surrounded by water. The small church in Ipap\u00e1nti in the south of Dafn\u00edla\n\n---\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n##   IPAP\u00c1NTI CHURCH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nEvery Corfu holidaymaker is familiar with the monastery island of Vlach\u00e9rna \u2013 at least, from postcards. However, its smaller, but just as lovely counterpart is largely unknown. Going across the short causeway, you will feel like you are on a large inland lake: Guvi\u00e1 bay is completely enclosed by low, green hills and the opening to the sea is nowhere to be seen. In the distance, you can just make out Guvi\u00e1's marina and the old shipyard buildings. A beautiful garden with midday flowers, cacti, agaves and palm trees has been planted around the church \u2013 and there are benches where you can sit and admire them. This romantic place is especially popular for weddings. _Daily, from midday | Follow the small signpost to Kom\u00e9no on the main island road_\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## ETRUSCO\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nGastronomic guides describe Ettore Botrini's restaurant as the 'avant-garde of Greek gastronomy', the best restaurant on any Greek island and the second best in the whole country. He is a disciple of the revolutionary 'technomotion' style developed by Spain's star chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. He does not sell food but emotions; he doesn't nourish the stomach but the soul. The menu changes often and has offered such delicacies as medallions of fish in triple-sec with sesame, lamb simmered with cumquats and olive-oil or tomato ice-cream. In spite of his fame, set meals are available from as low as 60 euros. _May\u2013Oct; daily, in the evening | On the road from Dassi\u00e1 to \u00c1no Korakian\u00e1 | tel. 26 61 09 33 62 | Expensive_\n\n## KARIDI\u00c1\n\nA high-class taverna with excellent service and many Greek dishes freshly prepared every day; tasty lamb specialities, excellent salads and pleasant house wines. _Koloktih\u00f3pita_ , puff pastry filled with courgette, is one of the house's vegetarian specialities. _Daily, in the evening | Dassi\u00e1 | On the main road | Moderate_\n\n## MALIBU BEACH CLUB\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nModern bar with a sunbathing lawn on the beach and music for the young. Snacks. _Daily | Between the hotels Dassia Beach and Dassia Chandris | Budget_\n\n## PANORAMA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe name of this restaurant, with its large terrace high up on one of the hills in Dafn\u00edla, is well chosen: from here, you have a wonderful view over the island. The many Corfiot specialities are also delightful. _Daily | Follow the signpost on the main road to the Hotel Daphn\u00edla Bay and then the restaurant signs | Expensive_\n\n# SPORT & BEACHES\n\nThe only beach worth mentioning on the Komm\u00e9no Peninsula occupied by Dafn\u00edla is near the Hotel Corfu Imperial. The main, mostly pebbly beach at Dassi\u00e1 is around 700 m long. There is no beach road to disturb your bathing in the midst of verdant nature. _\u00c1gios Nik\u00f3laos Beach_ between Dassi\u00e1 and Dafn\u00edla has a 300 m stretch of sand. It is also the site of the \u2013 easily recognisable \u2013 country estate of the Russian oligarch Roman Abramovich, one of the world's richest men. There are often even two large motor yachts anchored in front of his high-security residence.\n\nThere are three good water-sport centres on the main beach in Dassi\u00e1 with two others on the hotel beaches at Daphn\u00edla Bay and Corfu Imperial.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## EDEM\n\nThis beach bar is also open during the day and there are several large beach parties with fireworks in July and August. _Daily | Dassi\u00e1 | In front of the Hotel Scher\u00eda, approx. 100 m north of the terminus for bus number 7_\n\n## TARTAYA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nExotic atmosphere in this lounge bar with its palm trees lit in orange. Every corner of the mainly open terrace is different and numerous mirrors create unexpected effects. You can make yourself comfortable on the stools and chairs, in a hammock, or just strike up new friendships at the bar. _Daily | Dassi\u00e1 | On the main road north of the Chandris Hotel_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n##   DASSI\u00c1 BEACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nWhat makes this three-storey hotel, hidden between the trees, so special is its location only 10 m from the sea. Shortly after it was built, a law was passed forbidding hotels to be constructed less than 50 m from the water. That is why it is difficult to find a hotel in such a privileged location.\n\nThe owner's family is omnipresent and supervises the charmingly old-fashioned service. The rooms are simply but tastefully furnished. Under its densely leafed roof, the hotel taverna lies between the only 2 m-wide beach promenade and the hotel entrance. It is also open to the public and serves a wide range of typical food and grilled dishes at reasonable prices. The hotel has a bathing jetty and the next water-sport centre is only 50 m away; the main street with its caf\u00e9s and bars, approximately 300 m. _54 rooms | Dassi\u00e1 | On the main beach | tel. 26 61 09 \u200b32 24 |www.dassiahotels.gr | Moderate_\n\n## DASSI\u00c1 CHANDRIS\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe main attraction of this architecturally unspectacular hotel is its expansive garden on the main beach in Dassi\u00e1. _251 rooms and bungalows | tel. 26 61 09 33 51 |www.chandris.gr | Expensive_\n\n##   GRECOTEL CORFU IMPERIAL\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nPure luxury: the Grecotel Corfu Imperial occupies most of the Komm\u00e9no Peninsula. Nowhere is more luxurious than this for your stay on Corfu. The house owned by the German-Greek _Grecotel_ hotel chain takes up an entire peninsula, has its own water-sport centre, private bays with three sandy beaches, a large freshwater pool, as well as an indoor swimming pool. The presidential villas have their own pools and yacht moorings. _308 rooms | Dafn\u00edla (signposted) | tel. 26 61 09 14 81 |www.grecotel.gr | Expensive_\n\n### Pure luxury: the Grecotel Corfu Imperial occupies almost all of the Komm\u00e9no Peninsula\n\n---\n\n## NEF\u00c9LI\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nPeaceful, informal hotel with pool in a large garden. Some of the rooms are decorated according to various Corfiot themes. The restaurant offers enchanting panoramic views. The closest sandy beach is 800 m away on foot. Renting a car is recommended. _Komm\u00e9no Peninsula | tel. 26 61 09 10 33 |www.hotelnefeli.com | Moderate_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c1NO KORAKI\u00c1NA\n\nRoad Atlas [126 C3] | Google Map)\n\nWith its 900 inhabitants and 37 (usually closed) churches and chapels, \u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na is one of Corfu's largest mountain villages. Just a brief stroll along the main road will reveal any number of historical buildings: round portals and houses built over the street, beautiful doorframes and windowsills with stone carvings, most of them from the Venetian period. House number 288 on the main street (Od\u00f3s Dimokrat\u00edas) is particularly striking with its rich ornamentation of bizarre sculptures. It used to be the house of a local sculptor; unfortunately, nothing else is known about him. Visit \u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na late in the afternoon when the old-fashioned caf\u00e9s are open and the streets are full of life. _6 km (3.7 mi) from Dassi\u00e1_\n\n## \u00cdPSOS & PIRGI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D3\u20134] | Google Map)\n\nThese two coastal resorts merge into one another, lack character and are at best, average. Holiday-makers sun themselves on the \u2013 at most \u2013 5 m-wide strip of shingles directly below the busy main island road; the other side of the road is lined with mediocre bars, restaurants, souvenir shops and roads to the camping sites. However, there is one culinary bright spot: the   _Grand Balcon Restaurant (daily | North of \u00cdpsos above the road to Barb\u00e1ti | Moderate)_ that serves mostly specialities from the north of mainland Greece. Here, _chtap\u00f3di_ , octopus, is still prepared as the typical Corfiot _bourd\u00e9to_. Another highlight for connoisseurs is _katsik\u00e1ki g\u00e1stras_ , kid (of the goat variety!) cooked in a clay pot. In winter, wild boar is served. _2 km (1.2 mi) from Dassi\u00e1_\n\n  |\n\n## SOKR\u00c1KI\n\n|    \n---|---|---\n\nDriving to Sokr\u00e1ki is quite an experience if you take the road from \u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na. The tarmac road is mostly only single-lane and winds itself like a corkscrew up a steep slope with 23 hairpin bends and even more gentle ones revealing breathtaking views of central and southern Corfu. The passengers usually have sweaty hands when they finally reach Sokr\u00e1ki and the driver will need to shake out his arms after all the hard work.\n\nThe best place to do that is on the tiny village square where two, quite unspoilt caf\u00e9s serve salads with _f\u00e9tta_ (cheese made of sheep's or goat's milk).     Both of them also offer _tzizimb\u00edrra_ , the special Corfiot ginger beer, from the middle of May. If you order this, you will enjoy something that is unique in the whole of Greece. _11 km (6.8 mi) from Dassi\u00e1_\n\n# GUVI\u00c1 & KONTOK\u00c1LI\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D4\u20135] | Google Map)\n\n### You will feel like you are on a mountain lake in Switzer-land on the shore in Guvi\u00e1 (pop. 950) and Kontok\u00e1li (pop. 1600).\n\nThe bay of Guvi\u00e1 is almost completely surrounded by green hills; olive groves reach down to the water. Looking through the bay entrance, you will be able to make out the mountains in the province of \u00c9piros on the mainland that are covered with snow until well into April. In Corfu's largest yacht harbour in the bay between Guvi\u00e1 and Kontok\u00e1li, you can breathe in the atmosphere of the big wide world.\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n## VENETIAN SHIPYARDS\n\nToday, the walls, arches and entrance portal of the shipyard constructed in 1778 seem out of place and rather neglected; however, these buildings, which are now in ruins, were full of life in the last 20 years of Venetian dominance over Corfu. This is where ships were built, repaired and put into dry dock over winter. _Free access | Between the main beach and marina, well signposted in the village_\n\n### It has been a long time since ships were built here: the Venetian shipyards in Guvi\u00e1\n\n---\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## KAPET\u00c1NIOS\/CAPTAIN\n\nSmall, traditional, informal restaurant away from the hustle and bustle; good, home-style Greek food and fresh fish. _Daily, in the evening | In the village centre between the beach and village road; above the Hotel Sirena (look for the advertising board on the hotel roof) | Budget_\n\n## MED\u00daSA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nTypical Greek _ouzeri_ offering many specialities including Cypriot _scheftali\u00e1_ , minced-meat sausage in the stomach lining of a lamb, Corfiot country-style sausages and pickled octopus. Children can have half portions at half the price. _Daily, in the evening | On the village road to Kontok\u00e1li | Moderate_\n\n## RO\u00daLA\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis taverna lies far from the madding crowd on a side arm of the bay with a view of the yacht harbour and mountains. Mikhail Gorbatschov, Nana Mouskouri, Vicky Leandros and many Greek VIPs have enjoyed fish and lobsters here in an informal, simple setting. _Daily, in the evening; Sat & Sun, open for lunch | On the same peninsula as the Hotel Kontok\u00e1li Bay that is signposted on the main road | Expensive_\n\n |\n\n## T\u00c1KIS\n\n---|---\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis simple taverna on the village street in Kontok\u00e1li with tables in front of and behind the house has been in existence for a long time. The innkeeper is especially proud of his smoked trout from the Greek mainland. Lamb and _kokor\u00e9tsi_ are often grilled on a spit in the evening. Good English breakfast. _Daily; usually closed in the afternoon in July and August | Moderate_\n\n# SHOPPING\n\n## VASSIL\u00c1KIS\n\nHere you can taste and buy the products made by the distillery and winery of the same name. _Daily 8am\u201310pm | Guvi\u00e1, on the road towards Dassi\u00e1_\n\n# BEACHES\n\nThe most beautiful beach in Kontok\u00e1li is located directly in front of the Hotel Kontok\u00e1li Bay and, like all other beaches in Greece, is open to the public. All of the other beaches between Kontok\u00e1li and Guvi\u00e1 were sacrificed for the construction of the marina. Guvi\u00e1 now only has a 200 m-long main beach and a strip beneath the Louis Corcyra Hotel; both are mostly pebbly.\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\n## ADONIS CLUB\n\nSmall cellar disco. _Daily | Village road towards Kontok\u00e1li_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n## ILI\u00c1DA BEACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nA hotel in the centre of town near the main beach with pool and a relaxed atmosphere. Its proximity to the marina makes it particularly attractive for crews from the yachts. _54 rooms | Guvi\u00e1 | tel. 26 61 09 13 60 |www.gto.gr | Moderate_\n\n## KONTOK\u00c1LI BAY\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis hotel welcomes families and is located on a small peninsula between Kontok\u00e1li and the island capital 6 km (3.7 mi) away. Apart from some occasional aircraft noise it is quietly located. There are free sun beds and umbrellas for the guests on two sandy beaches and around the seawater pool. Mountainbikes, two tennis courts and various water sports are available at a charge. _259 rooms | Kontok\u00e1li | tel. 26 61 \u200b09 \u200b05 00 |www.kontokalibay.com | Expensive_\n\n## LOUIS CORCYRA BEACH\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nBeach hotel that welcomes children in a spacious garden with tennis, squash and a fine range of water sports. _265 rooms | tel. 26 61 09 01 96 |www.louishotels.com | Expensive_\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c1GIOS IO\u00c1NNIS\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D5]\n\n_Aqualand_ , Corfu's first fun pool, is located in this inland village on the connecting road between K\u00e9rkyra and Paleokastr\u00edtsa _(see p. 107)._\n\nThe small   Pension _Marida_ on the square in the historical centre is a peaceful refuge where you can stay in a country house, built in 1823 and set in a large garden, well away from any touristy hustle and bustle _(13 rooms | tel. 26 61 \u200b05 \u200b24 10 | Budget). 5 km (3.1 mi) from Guvi\u00e1_\n\n# P\u00c9LEKAS, GLIF\u00c1DA & MIRTI\u00d3TISSA\n\nRoad Atlas [126\u2013127 C\u2013D6] | Google Map)\n\n### The small mountain village P\u00e9lekas (population 565) used to be an insider's tip for hippies.\n\nThe three beaches in the parish were completely undeveloped, the village absolutely untouched. That is all over now, but P\u00e9lekas has still kept something of its charm. Most of the tourists up in the mountain village are backpackers; the restaurants and caf\u00e9s are simple and small. There is still the typical grocery store with the gossipy owner and excursion buses do not stop in the village.\n\nThe several-metre-high cement wall that runs for kilometres along the access roads is sprayed with   colourful graffiti \u2013 often of artistic value; the other walls in the village have also been imaginatively decorated during the several graffiti festivals.\n\nTwo of the three beaches are firmly in the grip of mass tourism. There are several large hotels at _Glif\u00e1da Beach_ and the first was opened at _P\u00e9lekas Beach_ in 1999. At _Mirti\u00f3tissa Beach_ there is only one single taverna and a monastery. The parish promotes a stay in the mountain village: during the high season in the summer, a small bus travels, free of charge, between P\u00e9lekas and the beach at Glif\u00e1da \u2013 that is, if the council has approved the budget for that year.\n\nThere is an excellent website for the foreign community in P\u00e9lekas that is not restricted to the village itself. _www.pelekas.com_\n\n### The church and taverna are at the heart of every Corfiot village: evening in P\u00e9lekas\n\n---\n\n# SIGHTSEEING\n\n##   KAISER'S THRONE\n\nDuring his stays on Corfu, Kaiser Wilhelm II was fond of a small rock on the top of the hill _(Sunset Point)_ that towers above P\u00e9lekas where he sat and watched the sun set. Today, a signposted tarmac road leads up there from the village. In June it looks like a red ball of fire is rolling down the Corfiot hills when the sun seems to settle on a mountain top before continuing on its heavenly journey at the same angle as the slope.\n\n## PANAG\u00cdA MIRTI\u00d3TISSA (MON\u00cd MYRTTIDI\u00d3N) MONASTERY\n\nOne of the most beautifully located monasteries on the island lies hidden between olive trees, banana plants and countless flowers \u2013 and it is only 200 metres from a nudist beach. According to legend, a Turk who had converted to Christianity founded it in the 14th century after he had discovered an icon of Maria in a myrtle bush. However, the present buildings date from the 19th century. Today, just one monk lives in the monastery; he keeps it in order and would like to revitalise the old oil mill. _Daily 9am\u20131pm and 5\u20139pm | Access via a narrow road, which is tarmaced at first and then cemented, that is off the road between P\u00e9lekas and the R\u00f3pa Valley; it is easy to miss the signpost! | Car park (chargeable) half way up; limited parking on the beach and near the monastery_\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n## AL\u00c9XANDROS\n\nThe first taverna in the village opened in 1960 and is still one of the best. The service is friendly and it offers good value for money. _Daily | P\u00e9lekas, in the centre on the road to Kaiser's Throne | Moderate_\n\n## ELI\u00c1\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nSnacks and standard dishes are served in the modern taverna about 10 minutes' walk from the beach; this is not the place for haute cuisine. A blackboard showing the monastery's opening times is hung opposite the taverna. _Daily | On the road to Mirti\u00f3tissa beach | Budget_\n\n## LEVANT\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe restaurant in the hotel of the same name on the hilltop above P\u00e9lekas serves Corfiot specialities such as the juicy ham _noubo\u00falo_ , with _penne tricolore_ or pumpkin in elegant surroundings. The baked noodles, _pastitsjo_ , without the frequently stodgy B\u00e9chamel sauce, can also be recommended. You can sit on the large terrace of the restaurant even if you just have a drink. But maybe you should try the sweet Greek speciality _glik\u00e1 koutalio\u00fa_ (sweet spoon) \u2013 various fruit in syrup. _Terrace all day; restaurant daily, in the evening | Reservation recommended: tel. 26 61 09 \u200b42 30 | Expensive_\n\n## P\u00c9TRA\n\nThe trendy caf\u00e9 bar just above P\u00e9lekas Beach attracts Corfiots from all over the island. Cocktails and champagne are the drinks of the day and the snacks served are international. _Daily | Southern road to the beach | Expensive_\n\n# SPORT & BEACHES\n\nThe secluded, approximately 300 m-long,   _sandy beach at Mirti\u00f3tissa_ is unofficially used as a nudist beach. So far, only a limited number of sun beds and umbrellas have been available for hire but there is a certain amount of shade among the rocks. This beach is really something and well worth visiting, no matter where you are staying on Corfu.\n\n_Glif\u00e1da Beach_ , on the other hand, is usually very crowded but there are plenty of sun beds, umbrellas and water sport activities. Two narrow tarmac roads lead down to P\u00e9lekas Beach which is not quite as busy and is also suitable for children. There is a water-sport centre here too.\n\n### Crystal-clear water and a beautiful beach make Mirti\u00f3tissa Bay a bather's dream\n\n---\n\n# ENTERTAINMENT\n\nThe nightlife is concentrated in the cafes and bars around the village square.\n\n## P\u00c9LEKAS CAF\u00c9\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThis modern caf\u00e9 on the small main square is a meeting place for the locals and holidaymakers in the evening. The village priest even drops by regularly. There is Greek and international music and you have a good view of the island through the wide-open windows. The visitors' book is always open too and is full of praise for the friendly atmosphere. _Daily | P\u00e9lekas_\n\n# WHERE TO STAY\n\n##   LEVANT\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nThe hotel's hillside location is unique on Corfu. It has an inviting swimming pool and all rooms have panoramic views. There is also a computer room with internet access and a video collection. Unfortunately, the cleanliness of the rooms is not always up to scratch. Demand improvements! _25 rooms | P\u00e9lekas Sunset Point | tel. 26 61 09 42 30 |www.levant-hotel.com | Expensive_\n\n## P\u00c9LEKAS COUNTRY CLUB\n\nGoogle Map)\n\nSuites and studios decorated with antiques on an 18th-century country estate with 125 acres of olive groves and gardens. Pool, helipad and excellent break-fast. _11 rooms | 8 km (5 mi) on the road from K\u00e9rkyra to P\u00e9lekas | tel. 22 61 \u200b05 22 39 |www.country-club.gr | Expensive_\n\n |\n\n## T\u00c9LLIS AND BRIGITTE\n\n---|---\n\nCrystal-clear water and a beautiful beach make Mirti\u00f3tissa Bay a bather's dream.The German-Greek hosts and their sons, Sp\u00edros and N\u00edkos, take exceptional care of their guests. They will gladly join you for a glass of wine or ouzo and sometimes let you help at the barbecue.   The rooms at the back of the house offer a beautiful view over the island. Hikers on the Corfu Trail are given special discounts! _8 rooms | In the centre of P\u00e9lekas, signposted on the main road | tel. 26 61 \u200b09 \u200b43 26 |www.pelekas.com | Budget_\n\n## THOMAS BY G & G\n\nTwo Italian brothers run this well-established guesthouse in a relaxed manner. All the rooms have balconies and the owners have set up an Italian-Greek restaurant on the ground floor that is open in the high season. _16 rooms | On the road to Kaiser's Throne | tel. 69 79 20 84 30 |www.thomaspelekas.com | Budget_\n\nCorfu's most famous speciality is the   **** cumquat. Corfu is the only place in Europe where they are grown as a cash crop. The fruit \u2013 which is the size of a small plum and originally came from China \u2013 was first brought to the island by the British in the first half of the 19th century. Like oranges, they mature in winter and can be picked between January and March. Corfiot companies use them to make various liqueurs: a colourless one from the flesh of the fruit and one that is bright pink from the skins. Cumquats are often made into jam, sold candied and can be eaten fresh during the harvest. The skin can be eaten as well; it gives the fruit its tangy aroma.\n\n# WHERE TO GO\n\n## \u00c9RMONES\n\nRoad Atlas [126 C5] | Google Map)\n\nToday, as in ancient times, Homer's Odysseus would certainly rub his eyes in disbelief, awakening out of a deep sleep on the beach at \u00c9rmones after his 10-year journey home. Maybe he would see a bathing beauty as lovely as Nausicaa, the daughter of King Alcinous of Phaeacia, standing in front of him. However, he would certainly not recognise the surroundings. The hinterland is now covered with a sprawl of hotels and guesthouses. Odysseus would be equally surprised to see the funicular that ferries guests staying at the _Grand Mediterraneo Resort Hotel_ from their rooms high up on the slope down to the beach, which \u2013 at just 200 m long \u2013 is not really one of Corfu's most beautiful. More attractively priced accommodation can be found at _Hotel Elena (28 rooms | tel. 2661 09 41 31 | Moderate). 7 km (4.3 mi) from P\u00e9lekas_\n\n## R\u00d3PA VALLEY\n\nRoad Atlas [126 C4\u20135]\n\nThe terrace of the Corfu Golf Club restaurant is open to all and you will feel as if you are in an English park. The small modern chapel next to it is the only hint that you are actually in Greece. _6 km (3.7 mi) from P\u00e9lekas_\n\n## SINAR\u00c1DES\n\nRoad Atlas [128 A\u2013B 1\u20132] | Google Map)\n\nOutside K\u00e9rkyra, museums are few and far between. The   _Folklore Museum_ in Sinar\u00e1des (pop. 1120) is a ray of light in this cultural desert. The exhibition on the two floors of this historical building, which was occupied as a house until 1970, shows how the Corfiots lived and worked in the country between 1860 and 1960. There are excellent descriptions of all the exhibits in English. Among the unique objects to be seen are two birth chairs and figures for the Greek shadow play _karagi\u00f3ssi (Mon\u2013Sat 9am\u20132pm | Entrance 2 euros | Signposted at the church; leave your vehicle at the car park in the village centre)_.\n\nIt is worth taking a short stroll through the village with its many old houses after you have visited the museum. Those that are almost completely overgrown with flowers are particularly lovely. If you want to soak up the down-to-earth, local atmosphere, have a drink in one of the old-fashioned grocery stores-cum- _kafen\u00eda_ on the road and watch village life go by. You will get plenty of this, too, in the simple   Snackbar _Locanda_ _(Budget)_ on the _plat\u00eda_ , the village square. Stel\u00edos, the proprietor, used to be a sailor and now organises the barbeque for his guests in the evening. In the high season, his wife prepares the specialities _pastits\u00e1da_ and _sofr\u00edto_ every day.\n\nIf you like rabbit, you should visit the   Taverna _Aerost\u00e1to_ (call first). D\u00edmitri, the father, breeds the animals himself and slaughters them as needed. His son, St\u00e1vros, a model-plane builder and his wife Chr\u00edssa serve wine from the barrel _(daily from 10am | tel. 26 61 05 \u200b41 62 | Outside the village, high above the sea | Signposted on the road between P\u00e9lekas and Sinar\u00e1des | Moderate)_. A walk along the small track that starts just above the taverna will take you down to a small, usually deserted, sandy beach in about 15 minutes. _6 km (3.7 mi) from P\u00e9lekas_\n\n  Camping: you can stay cheaply in simple bungalows (sleeping up to 4) and fully-equipped tents (for up to 5) at the campsite in Dassi\u00e1 Road Atlas [127 D4]. The beach is only 100 m away and the bus to town stops right in front of the site. With a pool and restaurant, internet caf\u00e9, cooking facilities and laundry. _Kard\u00e1 Camping | Dassi\u00e1 | tel. 26 61 \u200b09 35 87 |www.kardacamp.gr | Tent: 19\u201322 euros; bungalow; 42\u201350 euros_\n\n  Food and drink: the small _Ro\u00fala_ taverna on the main road in P\u00e9lekas Road Atlas [127 D6] just below the village square is one of the cheapest in the centre of the island. Ro\u00fala, the proprietor, serves wine produced in her own vineyard. _Daily | Moderate_\n\n### Photo: Petal\u00eda in the mountains\n\n---\n\nThe tours are marked in green in the Road Atlas\n\n##### A | ###### B | ## AN UNUSUAL WALKING TOUR AROUND K\u00c9RKYRA\n\n---|---|---\n\nOn this stroll you will remain within the boundary of the island's capital but will experience its rural side far away from traffic. It not only offers beautiful natural scenery but also historical treats and will take you to a monastery as well as a lush, green bay for swimming. Time: 3\u20134 hours.\n\nThis walk with   temple ruins and a sea view begins at the Corfu Stadium next to the airport. You can reach it on the number 2 bus. Starting out from the eastern side of the stadium, the route takes you first of all to the main **cemetery with its church** which you cross. A very narrow lane with some plain farmhouses leads out of the cemetery on the other side. Sheep graze, chickens peck and dogs laze about in the sunshine. After 100 m, you will reach the only remains of Corfu's ancient city wall from the 5th century BC on the left.\n\nA few minutes later, you will come across the scanty remains of the ancient **Artemis Temple** Germany's Emperor Wilhelm II was especially interested in its excavation. It is right in front of the walls of the **\u00c1gii Theod\u00f3ri convent**. One of the nuns who lives there will be pleased to show you the convent church.\n\nStay on the small lane and turn right onto the main road, go past the agricultural research institute for olive cultivation and a classicistic primary school and you will find yourself in front of the entrance to **Mon Repos** Castle Park. Here, you can admire the view of the romantic, old walls from the wonderful, green area surrounding the **Pal\u00e9opolis Basilica** before you go in. Start off by visiting the small castle and then follow the signs to the **Doric Temple**. At the first junction, take the shady path through the woods down to a small bay, completely enclosed by trees, with a wooden bathing jetty where you can take a quick dip.\n\nThe main path will take you past what is left of the **Hera Temple** to the extremely romantic foundations of an unnamed Doric temple from the 5th century BC. Some of its columns have been re-erected amidst the greenery and make a good photo opportunity. A path starting at the southeast corner of the temple area takes you to the low wall surrounding the castle park. If you climb over it and keep to the right on the path along the wall you will reach the tiny hamlet of **An\u00e1lipsi**.\n\nHere, you can follow the tarmac path along the castle wall back to the entrance and either take the bus back to the centre of town, climb up to **Kan\u00f3ni** , or walk through the suburb of **Anem\u00f3milos** with the Byzantine church **\u00c1gios J\u00e1son ke Socc\u00edpatros** to the coastal road.\n\n##### B | ###### C | ## ONCE AROUND PANTOKR\u00c1TOR\n\n---|---|---\n\nA good tarmac road leads up to Corfu's highest mountain. The peaceful villages around the mountain invite you to take a rest and there is also enough time for a swim. The tour from and back to K\u00e9rkyra is 110 km (68 mi) long and will take at least 12 hours.\n\nYour day in the mountains begins at the large village of **\u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na**. From here, follow the signs to Sokr\u00e1ki and Zig\u00f3s. The road now becomes narrower and winds like a corkscrew up the steep slope. When you arrive in **Sokr\u00e1ki** , you might need to stop for a coffee or a glass of the typical Corfiot lemonade called _tzizimb\u00edrra_. Then drive up a bit further and start ascending the flank of Pantokr\u00e1tor. Let yourself be tempted to take a break in the taverna under a more than 200-year-old elm tree in **Strin\u00edlas**. The entire island of Corfu lies spread out beneath you when you reach the summit of **Pantokr\u00e1tor** .\n\nThe next destination is **\u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas** where you can choose to go for a swim and have something to eat. But, you might prefer to have lunch in the next village: the old Venetian settlement of **Pale\u00f3 Per\u00edthia** in a high valley at the foot of Pantokr\u00e1tor. After a stroll through the ghost village, carry on to **Kassi\u00f3pi** on the coast. The best way to soak in the beauty of this place is to walk around the promontory; this will take about 25 minutes.\n\nDrive back to the south along the coast road. **Kul\u00fara** and **Kal\u00e1mi** are at least worth a quick look and a photo. However, you should definitely drive down to the old harbour in **Niss\u00e1ki** and let the day come to a close on the   terrace of a taverna near the sea or go to the tiny beach for a last dip.\n\n### Impressive bird's-eye view \u2013 but you can also walk around Kassi\u00f3pi\n\n---\n\n##### C | ###### C | ###### L | ## SHOPPING BETWEEN GUVI\u00c1 AND PALEOKASTR\u00cdTSA\n\n---|---|---|---\n\nThe shops along the main road on the east coast from Guvi\u00e1 to Paleokastr\u00edtsa will tempt you to buy some souvenirs or look over the shoulders of the craftsmen at work. Distance: 12 km (7.5 mi).\n\nSoon after turning off the road around the island at **Guvi\u00e1** , you can stock up with delicious baked Corfiot goods at the **Emeral Bakery** on the left. A good kilometre further on, you will arrive at Sofokl\u00eds Ikonom\u00eddis and Sissy Mosk\u00eddu's **Ceramic Workshop** where they create and fire colourful ceramic objects on the premises. After another 2.6 km (1.6 mi), visit the **olive-wood carving** exhibition on the left of the road followed, after only 900 m on the right, by the **Mavrom\u00e1tis** Distillery, where the company's liqueurs can be purchased in the modern, air-conditioned showroom.\n\n600 m further on, a no-through-road off to the left to Hotel Fund\u00e1na will lead you past a traditionally painted country house. This is where N\u00edkos Sak\u00e1lis produces and sells high quality   leather bags, glasses cases, backpacks and book covers (follow signs to 'Leather Workshop'). All of his products bear the 'Seminole' trademark. The visit to the leather workshop ends our shopping tour. Perhaps now you're ready for a relaxing swim, or just enjoy the countryside or a bit of culture with a visit to **Paleokastr\u00edtsa** Monastery.\n\n##### D | ###### k\n\n| BOAT TRIP TO P\u00c1XOS ISLAND    \n---|---|---\n\nP\u00e1xos is only one twelfth the size of Corfu but, just like its big sister, it is also covered with olive groves. This boat trip will not only show you the island town of G\u00e1ios but also the impressive towering coastline and sea caves. There is often a stopover at the much smaller island of Ant\u00edpaxos, which is only inhabited in summer, for a swim. Departures: daily from K\u00e9rkyra, Messong\u00ed-Mora\u00edtika and K\u00e1vos; Price. approx. 35 euros. Time: 8\u20139 hours.\n\nThe **Ipap\u00e1nti Grotto** is the first highlight on this trip around the island; small boats can even go into it. In World War II, a Greek submarine lay in hiding there for months. The arrow-like pinnacle of the **Orth\u00f3lithos** rock rising out of the sea is a popular photo spot. You will have plenty of time to wander through the streets of the main town, **G\u00e1ios** , and have a meal at one of the tavernas on the _plat\u00eda_ at the harbour. From your table, you will be able to see the neighbouring island, **\u00c1gios Nik\u00f3laos** , and through a narrow inlet the ruins of a Venetian fortress. The small island of **Panag\u00eda,** with its snow-white church dedicated to the Virgin Mary \u2013 the site of an annual pilgrimage with thousands of followers \u2013 borders to the north. Some of the excursion boats sail from G\u00e1ios to the village of **P\u00e1rga** on the mainland (instead of cruising around the island) where you can either go for a swim or walk up to the medieval castle.\n\n### The boat takes you to G\u00e1ios on Corfu's little sister island\n\n---\n\n##### E | ###### k | ## BOAT TRIP TO ALBANIA\n\n---|---|---\n\nCorfu's northeast coast doesn't face Greece, but Albania. Until 1990, this neighbouring country was completely cut off from Corfu, but now ferries and hydrofoils travel daily between the two. This excursion will take you to a country in which, so far, almost nobody spends their holidays and to the most magnificent archaeological sites in the region. Departures: daily at 9am from K\u00e9rkyra, price: 38 euros (return ticket), duration approx. 9 hours, passport required.\n\nDepending on the ferry, the crossing takes from 30 to 75 minutes and ends in the small town of **Sarande** , which the Greeks call **Ag\u00eda Sar\u00e1nda** , in Albania. Although it only has 35,000 inhabitants, the many new eight-to-ten-storey buildings give it the appearance of being much larger. However, there is no life in many of the apartments; Albanians working abroad have bought them as an investment and are seldom here. It is only a 10-minute walk from the ferry harbour along the narrow city beach and shore promenade to the new harbour that, with its caf\u00e9s, is the most attractive area of Sarande. After leaving the harbour, walk past the Hotel Porto Edo on the left and then turn left at the first crossing. This will lead you to the town's main square with a small green area and the fenced-in ruins of the early-Christian **\u00c1gia Sar\u00e1nda** Basilica from the 6th century. This is also the site of the tourist information office and taxi rank. If you haven't already booked a bus excursion, you can make a tour by taxi with a one-hour stop at your destination for 30\u201340 euros.\n\nThe 24 km (15 mi) road takes you past substantial building activity to the narrow strip of land between the sea and Lake Butrint. The entrance to the excavation site of ancient **Butrint** lies next to the **Vivarit Channel** that connects the lake with the sea. The mountains you can see across the water are on mainland Greece.\n\n**Butrint** was founded around 1200 BC and was inhabited for more than 2800 years until well into the 16th century. It experienced its golden age in the Roman period and most of its \u2013 often, well preserved \u2013 historical monuments, which Italian archaeologists excavated and restored before World War II, date from that era. Today, Butrint is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site _(daily 9am\u20136pm | Entrance: approx. 6 euros)._\n\nThe excavation site is on a peninsula jutting into Lake Butrint that rises up to a height of 30 metres. It is densely wooded and the 50-minute walk seems like a stroll through a park. There are boards with detailed information in English, ground plans and sketches of the reconstruction of everything that can be seen here: **Roman baths** and a **Roman theatre** , the **baptistery** of an early-Christian **basilica** from the 5th\/6th century that has been preserved up as far as roof level, the partially very well preserved **city walls** and several **city gates** from various periods.\n\n### Photo: Trips by ships: Mirti\u00f3tissa\n\n---\n\n### Corfu is not a typical destination for sports lovers but there is still plenty to do. The many protected bays on the east coast and the long, open beaches on the west are ideal for all kinds of water sports and for all levels of ability.\n\nDivers will find fewer restrictions than elsewhere in Greece and the numerous small roads and winding tracks are perfect for mountainbikers. And, along with Rhodes and Crete, Corfu is one of the three Greek islands with an 18-hole golf course.\n\n# BUNGEE BALL\n\nTwo brave people sit next to each other in a ball hanging from a cable at the Bungee Rocket in K\u00e1vos. With the same acceleration a car would need to reach 150 km\/h in one second, the ball is shot to a height of 72 m (235 ft), rotates around itself a few times and then comes back to the starting position. _Daily, from 8pm | Approx. 50 euros per start | K\u00e1vos | On the main road_\n\n# CRUISES\n\nYou can take a short cruise lasting one or several days around Corfu on a variety of boats. _Corfu Yachting_ in the marina at Guvi\u00e1 offers the greatest range of tours _(tel. 22 61 09 94 70 |www.corfuyachting.com)_.\n\nA one-day cruise on a wooden schooner from 1960 costs 90 euros per person (including lunch and drinks on board), and 75 euros on a sailing catamaran. Glass-bottomed boats and traditional _k\u00e1ikis_ are also available. If you want real luxury, you can hire a sleek motor yacht \u2013 complete with captain \u2013 for six people for a hefty 3950 euros for 24 hours (drinks included here as well) and lap up the life of the jet-set for just one day.\n\nAfter just a few brief explanations, you can set off on your rented motorboat with up to 30 HP without even having a licence. The hire company will tell you exactly where you are allowed to go. All boats are equipped with life jackets and a two-way radio. There are boat hire companies with the usual facilities in many resorts on the east and north coasts, as well as on the small neighbouring island of P\u00e1xos.\n\n# DIVING\n\nThere are very few restrictions on diving around Corfu making the area ideal for this sport. The best diving grounds are on the coast between Paleokastr\u00edtsa and \u00c9rmones. As this rocky area can only be reached from the land side at a few places, most of the dives start from boats. All diving centres on Corfu give individual instruction and organise dives for tourists. Most offer a full service for individual divers. _Korfu Diving Rolf Eyler | Paleokastr\u00edtsa | Ambel\u00e1ki Bay | tel. 26 6304 16 04 |www.korfudiving.com_ and _Calypso Diving | \u00c1gios G\u00f3rdis | At the southern end of the beach | tel. 26 61 05 31 01 |www.divingcorfu.com_\n\n# GOLF\n\nCorfu has the greenest and most-cared-for 18-hole golf course in Greece. The high trees and small ponds give the course (par 72, length 6183 m) in the Ropa Valley its special atmosphere; the clubhouse with its restaurant and small pro-shop is another plus. Guests are welcome. Green fees: 90 euros per day; from 220 euros for 8 days. _Corfu Golf Club | tel. 26 61 09 42 20; in winter, tel.: 21 06 91 87 95 |www.corfu\u200bgolf\u200bclub.com_\n\n# HIKING\n\nWith its many shady paths, green valleys and countless villages, Corfu is an ideal hiking region. You can never get completely lost because there is almost always a village in sight. The loveliest hikes run from south to north on the 222 km (138 mi) long, well-marked,   _Corfu Trail_ that goes from Cape Akot\u00edri Arko\u00fadia to Cape Akot\u00edri \u00c1gias Ekater\u00ednis. More information and links to hike organisers along this long-distance path: _www.corfutrail.org_\n\n# HORSE RIDING\n\nThe best-run riding stables on the island offer tours for beginners and experts:   _Trailriders_ , _near \u00c1no Koraki\u00e1na, signposted | Mon\u2013Sat 10am until noon and 5 until 7pm | Free transfers in the region between Paleokastr\u00edtsa and Gouvi\u00e1 | tel. 26 63 02 30 90 |www.trail\u200briderscorfu.com_\n\n# MIND, BODY & SPIRIT\n\nThe range of spa facilities on offer on Corfu is rather mediocre with only a few of the larger hotels having these. However, the island is first-rate if you are interested in far-eastern practices such as yoga and meditation and you will find many organisers based along the coast between \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n and Arill\u00e1s.\n\n# MOUNTAINBIKING\n\nTwo companies offer   guided mountainbike tours with various levels of difficulty. They, and some other smaller firms, also have bikes for hire. Guided day tours start at 35 euros (10 % internet discount). _S-A-F Travel \/ Hellas Bike | Skomb\u00fa (on the Guvi\u00e1-Paleokastr\u00edtsa road) | tel. 26 61 09 75 58; mobile 69 45 52 80 31 ; The Corfu Mountain-bike Shop | Dassi\u00e1 | 150 m north of Hotel Dassi\u00e1 Chandris on the main road | Branch office in Grecotel Daphn\u00edlia Bay | tel. 26 61 \u200b09 33 44 |www.mountainbikecorfu.gr_\n\n# TENNIS\n\nMost of the large hotels have tennis courts; some are also available to people not staying in the hotel. The best complex that is open year-round and very popular with Corfiots belongs to the Greek national team player Sp\u00edros Mich\u00e1leff: _Daphn\u00edla Tennis Club | Near Grecotel Daphn\u00edla Bay | tel. 26 61 09 05 70_\n\n# WATERSPORTS & YACHTING\n\nThere are water-sport centres at all of the main hotels and popular beaches. The bays between Dassi\u00e1 and Kontok\u00e1li are particularly suited to waterskiing: a round costs about 25 euros. Here, there are also many kinds of fun rides (banana-ride, 18 euros\/ride). Paragliding is also available on many beaches but there are great price differences depending on the season and centre. A solo glider pays between 35 and 45 euros; tandems, from 45 to 70 euros. Windsurfers, dinghy and catamaran sailors are drawn to the west coast where the winds are stronger. There are good centres in Paleokastr\u00edtsa, \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n and \u00c9rmones. Kite-surfing is only possible in \u00c1gios Ge\u00f3rgios Pag\u00f3n.\n\nAn extensive water-sport package deal is available to those staying at _San Giorgio_ Hotel, with its uniquely beautiful park landscape, with equipment provided exclusively by the organiser.\n\nThose with a license for open-sea sailing can rent yachts by the week \u2013 some with a skipper. _Corfu Yachting | Marina Guvi\u00e1 | tel. 26 61 09 94 70 |www.corfu\u200byacht\u200bing.com | Sal Yachting | K\u00e9rkyra | Od\u00f3s Sp. Mour\u00edki 3 | tel. 26 61 03 04 09 | www.sal\u200byachts.gr_\n\n### Sailing with a historical background: Corfu offers courses for beginners and experts\n\n---\n\n### Photo: Fun snorkelling at Gard\u00e9nos Beach\n\n---\n\n### Corfu is a problem-free destination for families with children. The little ones are welcome everywhere. The Greeks don't fuss about their children very much but simply let them take part in most adult activities \u2013 and let them stay up until well past midnight.\n\nYou can choose from a wide range of baby food, nappies and fresh milk in the supermarkets. There are reductions for children up to the age of 12 on bus services, ships and excursion boats, as well as at various events, and most of the large hotels have paddling pools. If you stay in a hotel or apartment without a pool, you will be welcome to use any hotel pool as long as you buy drinks and snacks at the bar.\n\nHowever, some things could be better on Corfu: highchairs and special meals for children are rare and even car hire services hardly ever have child seats. There is a playground in almost every village but the equipment is usually in a poor state of repair. Despite this, there is often a lot going on here in the early evening when the sun has lost its strength and the stars start to emerge. There are no restrictions or fences to stop children playing in the ruins of Corfiot castles \u2013 but the pits and walls are also unsecured and not without their dangers.\n\nA word about your first-aid kit: doctors often prescribe antibiotics to cure simple colds; if you don't approve of this, you should make sure you have your own selection of medicine with you.\n\nThe flat, wind-sheltered bays on the east coast are much better for children who cannot swim than the beaches on the west where the water quickly becomes deep and there is often a slight swell and strong undercurrents. The best beaches for children are in the wide bay at Lefk\u00edmi and in Dassi\u00e1 where the water is comparatively safe.\n\n# CORFU TOWN\n\n |\n\n## MINI DRIVERS\n\n---|---\n\nMap Corfu [F4]\n\nOn almost every summer evening between 7 and 10pm there is masses going on at the southern end of the Esplanade. This is where a child's dream comes true in the form of small electric cars that can be driven by anyone capable of holding a steering wheel and reaching the pedals \u2013 which sometimes proves easier than taking the foot off the accelerator. There is room in the cars for two children. It's a good idea to keep an eye on the little ones as there is no fence around the driving area: runaways can drive almost anywhere just as long as the battery holds out. Around 4 euros for 15 minutes of childhood bliss.\n\n## MINI-TRAIN ON WHEELS\n\nMap Corfu [E4]\n\nMiniature trains with a locomotive and three carriages with room for around 20 people in each are popular throughout Greece. They travel on rubber tyres and run on electric motors. The _tren\u00e1ki_ \u2013 Greek for little train \u2013 in K\u00e9rkyra makes 40-minute tours along the coast road to Pale\u00f3polis every hour between 11am and 2pm, and 5 and 11pm. The station is in front of Hotel Arcad\u00edon on the Esplanade; the price is the same for everybody over the age of four: 5 euros.\n\n## SEA LION SHOW AND FISH-WATCHING WITH THE CALYPSO STAR\n\nDuring the week, the _Calypso Star_ leaves the Old Harbour hourly between 10am and 6pm \u2013 on Sundays from 11am to 4pm. The 18 m-long glass-bottomed boat with room for around 50 passengers heads to the island of V\u00eddos off the north coast where it stops so that its guests can watch a show with trained sea lions. Some people may object to this show from an animal protection point of view. If enough people complain, it might be possible to drop this part of the programme.\n\nThere are large, glass windows in the hull of the ship and you will be able to watch the fish while the ship slowly steams ahead. These have become scarce in Greek waters and a diver attracts them with food. You will almost always see a whole school of them \u2013 they know the _Calypso Star_ and its diver. The 40-minute trip costs 16 euros for adults and 9 euros for children aged 2 to 11.\n\n## STARING PILOTS IN THE EYE\n\nRoad Atlas [127 E6]\n\nThe airport runway in Corfu is at sea level. And Kan\u00f3ni, the cape of An\u00e1lipsis Peninsula, rises up only about 300 m from its southern end as the crow flies. You can sit up there on a caf\u00e9 terrace and have a fine view of the planes coming in to land or preparing to take off. If the planes land from the south, you will almost be able to look straight into the pilot's eye \u2013 you are both on the same level.\n\nIt is just as fascinating to watch the planes turn at the southern end of the runway and see how they gain speed and then take off. Something else both young and old will enjoy up here: the refreshing sundaes are really a treat!\n\n## TOURS WITH A HORSE AND CART\n\nMap Corfu [F4 und C1]\n\nYou will often hear the clatter of hooves in K\u00e9rkyra from one of the many one-horse carriages pulled by colourfully decorated horses in the Old Town. There is enough room in them for four adults (or two adults and four small children). But, you will have to dig deep into your pockets: 30 minutes cost about 35 euros (try to bargter!). The carriages line up waiting for customers in front of the Schulenberg Monument on the Esplanade and, in the morning, at the Old Harbour. The best time to take a ride is in the early evening.\n\n# CENTRAL CORFU\n\n## AQUALAND WATER PARK\n\nThe second of the two adventure water parks on Corfu, extending over an area of 75,000 m\u00b2, is located near the village of \u00c1gios Io\u00e1nnis in the verdant centre of the island. It has spacious lawns for sunbathing and its several freshwater pools, including some with wave machines, invite you to take a dip, while numerous giant slides make sure you hit the water with a splash. There are self-service restaurants and bars and, if you like loud music all day long, just find a place near one of the loudspeakers. The number 8 bus leaves K\u00e9rkyra at 11am and 12.30, 2.15, 3.15 and 5pm and returns around 20 minutes later (tickets must be bought in advance at the kiosk). _May\u2013Sept daily 10am\u20136pm | Admission: adults 25 euros; children (4\u201312 years of age) 17 euros; weekly pass 75 euros |www.aqualand-corfu.com_\n\n# THE NORTH\n\n## HAVE A SPLASH IN HYDROPOLIS\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D1]\n\nWith its eight large water slides and numerous other facilities, this water park and its attractions on the eastern edge of Achar\u00e1vi, similar to Aqualand in central Corfu, is a real magnet and fun for all the family. _Hydropolis. May\u2013Sept daily 10am\u2013\u200b7pm | Admission: adults, 16 euros; children (5\u201312 years of age) 10 euros |www.gelina\u200bvillage.gr_\n\n## A DRIVE THROUGH A LEMON GROVE\n\nRoad Atlas [127 D1]\n\nChildren can go for a drive in miniature electric cars next to the Lemon Garden in Achar\u00e1vi. When they pass their test, they get a lemon instead of a licence. The perfectly laid-out track is well equipped with safety in mind and parents will be able to relax and enjoy their cocktails or coffee in the neighbouring lemon grove while their children have fun. _Daily from 6pm | 30 min approx. 4 euros_\n\n### Biking or swimming \u2013 it's more enjoyable together\n\n---\n\nThe Corfiot holiday calendar boasts many events that reveal Venetian and Orthodox influences. Here, the carnival is widely celebrated with many colourful balls, costume parties and parades. Holy Week and Easter closely follow the Orthodox tradition. The dates of these moveable feast days are different from other Christian churches. Church consecration festivals, which are celebrated in every village, form a symbiosis between the two. The Orthodox saints are lauded with music with an Italian touch on their feast day.\n\nIn K\u00e9rkyra in particular, there are numerous concerts and other cultural events throughout the summer season where you will be able to experience ancient tragedies and Greek rock music in open-air theatres and medieval castles.\n\n# HOLIDAYS\n\n## 1 January\n\nNew Year's Day\n\n## 6 January\n\nEpiphany\n\n## 27 February, 2012 | 18 March, 2013\n\nShrove Monday\n\n## 25 March\n\nNational Holiday\n\n## 13 April, 2012 | 3 May, 2013\n\nGood Friday\n\n## 15\/16 April, 2012 | 5\/6 May, 2013\n\nEaster\n\n## 1 May\n\nLabour Day\n\n## 21 May\n\nUnion of the Ionian Islands with Greece\n\n## 3\/4 June, 2012 | 23\/24, June 2013\n\nWhitsun\n\n## 15 August\n\nAssumption of Mary\n\n## 28 October\n\nNational Holiday\n\n## 25\/26 December\n\nChristmas\/Boxing Day).\n\n# FESTIVALS & EVENTS\n\n## 6 JANUARY\n\n  **_Blessing of the Waters and Baptism of Christ:_** Processions to the sea are held in all larger towns where a priest throws a cross into the waves. The young man who brings it back will be blessed by good fortune throughout the coming year.\n\n## FEBRUARY\/MARCH\n\nCarnival processions in K\u00e9rkyra on the last three Sundays and Wednesday before Shrove Monday.\n\n## SHROVE MONDAY\n\n    High-spirited atmosphere with music and dancing in Messong\u00ed.\n\n## GOOD FRIDAY\n\nProcessions in all villages and in the capital, starting in the afternoon.\n\n## EASTER\n\n  Holy Saturday: Corfiots throw hundreds of clay jugs filled with water from balconies and windows onto the main streets in the Old Town. This turns into a public festival with music and dancing.\n\nAt 11pm, monumental   **_Resurrection service_** in all churches followed by fireworks\n\nEaster Sunday: grilled lamb in every village; traditional   **_family festival_**.\n\n## MAY\n\n20 and 21 May:   **_Church Consecration Festival_** in honour of Saints Constantine and Helena in N\u00edmfes.\n\n## JUNE\n\nFolklore dances in the theatre on several evenings at the end of the school year.\n\n## EARLY JUNE\u2013MID AUGUST\n\nAbout 30 concerts \u2013 from rock to classical, from choral music to piano recitals \u2013 in historical locations such as the Old Fortress, St. George's Church and the University's Ionian Academy during the     **_Inter-national Festival of Corfu_**. Usually free.\n\n## MID JULY\n\n16\/17 July: Church Consecration Festival in Ben\u00edtses with music, dancing and small gifts for visitors.\n\nThree-day   **_Cultural Festival_** with plays and concerts in Gard\u00edki Fortress on the second-to-last weekend in July.\n\n## AUGUST\n\n10 August: Live music, boat processions and folklore during the   **_Barcarolle Festival_** in the suburb of Gar\u00edtsa.\n\n14\/15 August:   **_Church Consecration Festival_** with music and dancing in Kassi\u00f3pi and Paleokastr\u00edtsa.\n\n23\/24 August:   **_Church Consecration Festival_** with music and dancing in the villages of \u00c1gii D\u00e9ka and P\u00e9lekas.\n\n### The Publisher shall not be held responsible for the contents of the links, blogs, apps, etc. listed here\n\n# LINKS\n\n  www.greencorfu.com \u200bWebsite on nature and 'green' affairs on the island. The accompanying greencorfu.worldpress.com gives lots of information about local products, alternative forms of tourism and environmental awareness as well as a lot of other tips and advice for the ecologically minded\n\n  www.allcorfu.com \u200bComprehensive commercial website on all places on Corfu\n\n  www.corfubeaches.com \u200bInformative site with news and reports on Corfu's beaches, with useful hints and many photos\n\n  www.agni.gr \u200bWebsite in English of a taverna and travel agency in north-eastern Corfu; also, general information and a unique selection of \u2013 sometimes unusual \u2013 holiday homes; for example, an old olive mill or an ancient house on the harbour pier in L\u00f3ngos on the neighbouring island of P\u00e1xos\n\n  www.corfu.gr With a mass on in-for-mation on the island's history, climate and environment issues as well as what to do and where to eat\n\n# BLOGS & FORUMS\n\n  corfubloggers.blogspot.com English blog by four women \u2013 three British and one Dutch \u2013 who have lived on Corfu for years and provide the latest news update\n\n  www.corfublogs.gr Many selected Greek and English blogs on Corfu at a glance\n\n# VIDEOS & STREAMS\n\n  www.corfuvisit.net \u200bThe official site of the Corfu Town Council also presents videos including a 22-minute film about the island\n\n  www.greeka.com \u200bMany videos including a 10-minute, 16 mm one about the island that was filmed in 1972\n\n  www.corfu-tube.com \u200bIf you manage to separate the grain from the chaff, you will find interesting videos made by visitors for visitors\n\n# APPS\n\n  Corfu HiGuide \u200bThis app not only provides information on Corfu but also on Mathr\u00e1ki, Eriko\u00fasa, P\u00e1xos and Antip\u00e1xos. A recording or video on each sight can be downloaded. And, one advantage: you don't even need an internet connection\n\n  iSlands \u200bIsland hopping and excursion planning become easier with this app. Available in Greek and English\n\n  Corfuguide \u200bThe integrated map in this android app helps you find sights, hotels, restaurants and petrol stations. A calendar shows current events, and ferry connections make island hopping easy\n\n# NETWORKS\n\n www.twitter.com\/GayCorfu \u200bThis twitter blog of the private gaycorfuinfo.com portal gives news and information on gay events in summer\n\n  www.facebook.com\/pages\/CORFU-EVENTS\/307870969559 New, small community mainly concentrating on events on Corfu\n\n  www.facebook.com\/pages\/corfu-paragliding\/79007569977 Tips of all sorts are posted on the Corfu Paragliding Community pinboard and the latest information exchanged among sports freaks. Members also have fun posting their latest aerial pictures\n\n# DON'T SHOW TOO MUCH SKIN\n\nThe Greeks have become used to naked skin in beach resorts. But further inland, many holidaymakers make fools of themselves by wearing too little. Your knees and shoulders must be covered in churches and monasteries.\n\n# DON'T ACT LIKE THE PAPARAZZI\n\nMany Greeks like to be photographed but hate those holidaymakers who carry on as if they were on a photo safari. Before you release the shutter, smile at the person you want to photograph and wait for his or her agreement.\n\n# DON'T UNDERESTIMATE THE DANGER OF FIRE\n\nThe risk of a forest fire on Corfu is high. Smokers should be especially careful.\n\n# DON'T BE BROWBEATEN\n\nTravel reps live from commissions. Most give honest information \u2013 but there are some black sheep who try to make their guests feel uncertain so that they will book their cars through them or take part in organised excursions instead of travelling by bus or taxi. Corfu is a safe island and there is no reason to be afraid of the locals.\n\n# DON'T ASK ABOUT THE COMPETITION\n\nGreeks are fairly honest. But, if you go into a taverna and ask about another one \u2013 you will be told that it doesn't exist, that the innkeeper has died or the police have closed it down.\n\n# DON'T FORGET YOUR HIKING SHOES\n\nSandals are not even suitable for small hikes; you should at least wear sturdy trainers. The paths are often stony and slippery. And there are snakes \u2013 only a few and they are timid but you never know. Long trousers will protect you from thorns.\n\n# DON'T LEAVE TARMACED ROADS\n\nIf you leave the main road in your hire car, you will be driving without insurance and will have to pay for any damage. On Corfu, damage to the underside and tyres of the car is never covered by insurance!\n\n# DON'T BE SHOCKED  \nBY THE PRICE OF FISH\n\nFresh fish has been extremely expensive in some Greek restaurants and tavernas for years. It is often sold by weight. You should ask how much a kilogram costs and be there when it is weighed so that you do not have any unpleasant surprises.\n\n##  ARRIVAL | BOOKS & FILMS | BUDGETING | BUSES | CAMPING | CAR HIRE | CLIMATE, WHEN TO GO | CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES | CURRENCY CONVERTER | CUSTOMS | DISCOTHEQUES | EMERGENCY SERVICES | ELECTRICITY | ENTRANCE FEES | HEALTH | IMMIGRATION INTO GREECE | INFORMATION | INTERNET CAF\u00c9S & WIFI | LANGUAGE | MONEY & CREDIT CARDS | NEWSPAPERS | PHOTOS & FILMS | POST | TAXI | PHONE & MOBILE PHONE | RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | TIPPING | TIME | WEATHER\n\n# ARRIVAL\n\n  Many airlines fly to Corfu in summer and there are flights via Athens throughout the year. The flight from London takes around 3\u00bc hours. Corfu's airport is on the outskirts of the town. You can easily take a taxi to your hotel or the coach terminal in K\u00e9rkyra. There are huge differences in the prices of flights and sometimes scheduled flights via Athens are cheaper than charters. The following sites can be recommended for more information: _www.ageanair.com, www.aua.com, www.easyjet.com, www.olympicair.com, www.ryanair.com_\n\n  In the summer months, there are several daily connections with the Italian ports of Ancona, Bari, Brindisi and Venice. Depending on the ship, the crossing to Brindisi takes from 3\u00bd\u20138 hours; to Ancona, around 20; and 29\u201336 hours to Venice. Compare prices at _www.gtp.gr, www.greekferries.gr, www.minoan.gr, www.\u200bsuperfast.com_ or contact a travel agent. Travelling by bus or train to an Italian harbour is only advisable in exceptional cases.\n\n  **My Family and Other Animals** \u2013 The famous animal film-maker and author Gerald Durrell's extremely humorous and much-loved description of his experiences on Corfu where he spent his childhood in the 1930s. The TV adaptation of this book was broadcast in 2005; it was directed by Sheree Folkson and is available on DVD\n\n  **Fedora** \u2013 Billy Wilder's bizarre story of a Hollywood star who also spent some time on Corfu is much more sophisticated; with Hildegard Knef and Mario Adorf in the main roles.\n\n  **For Your Eyes Only** \u2013 The James Bond adventure story begins off the coast of Corfu and parts of it were shot on the island in 1980.\n\n  **Prospero's Cell: A Guide to the Land-scape and Manners of the Island of Corfu** \u2013 His even more famous brother Lawrence Durrell captured the feeling of this period in his works of l-iterature.\n\n**Taxi** | **1.17 euros**\n\n---|---  \n|\n\n_per kilometre_\n\n**Coffee** | **2.50 euros**\n\n|\n\n_a cup of coffee_\n\n**Pedal boat** | **10 euros**\n\n|\n\n_an hour_\n\n**Wine** | **3.50 euros**\n\n|\n\n_for a glass of wine_\n\n**Snack** | **2.20 euros**\n\n|\n\n_for gyros at a stand_\n\n**Petrol** | **1.60 euros**\n\n|\n\n_for 1 litre of super_\n\n# BUSES\n\nThere are regular urban public bus services. You must purchase tickets in advance from kiosks, ticket machines or in your hotel. If possible, you should buy your tickets for long-distance buses\/coaches at the bus station \u2013 if not, when you get on board.\n\n# CAMPING\n\nCamping anywhere else but in a camp site is forbidden on Corfu. There are 13 official camp sites on the island \u2013 those in Dassi\u00e1, K\u00e1to Koraki\u00e1na and R\u00f3da have a pool \u2013 but are only open in the summer season.\n\n# CAR HIRE\n\nBicycles, mopeds, motor scooters, motorbikes, 4x4s and cars can be rented in all of the holiday resorts on Corfu. An Vauxhall Corsa costs from around 35 euros per day. If you want to hire a car or motorbike, you have to be at least 23 years of age. Be careful: even if you have full insurance coverage, damage to the tyres and the underside of the car is not covered. No matter how small the accident, you should call the police \u2013 otherwise, the insurance company will not pay. And, if you rent a moped, it is a good idea to wear jeans even if the weather is hot; they will provide increased protection if you have a slight accident and fall.\n\nThere is a good network of filling stations on the island and all sell both petrol and diesel. Most garages are open daily from 8am to 8pm. Self-service is still uncommon and coin-operated petrol stations are rare. Fuel prices are considerably higher than in many other countries in Europe.\n\nThe speed limit in built-up areas is 50 km\/h and 90 km\/h on main roads. It is compulsory to wear seatbelts in the front seats. The blood alcohol limit is 0.5; 0.2 for motorbike riders. The fines for traffic offences are extremely high. The police usually demand 60 euros for illegal parking that must be paid to the authority stated on the ticket.\n\n# CLIMATE, WHEN TO GO\n\nThe high season on Corfu lasts from May to October. Many hotels and most of the restaurants outside of the island's capital are closed in the other months. In May, the sea can still be too cold for swimming but this is the month when the flowers are at their best. The water is pleasantly warm in autumn but by this time the vegetation is largely withered and burnt. It hardly rains between June and September but there are often very strong winds.\n\nThe capital, K\u00e9rkyra, is also an attractive winter destination. There are almost no holidaymakers during this period and the locals have time to enjoy themselves in the tavernas. There will be fires blazing in the open hearths in the bars, restaurants and caf\u00e9s \u2013 and you will have the museums all to yourself!\n\n# CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES\n\n## BRITISH CONSULATE\n\n_18 Mantzarou Street 491 00, K\u00e9rkyra | tel.: 266 1 0-300 55 \/ 234 57 | fax: 266 10-379 95 |<http:\/\/ukingreece.fco.gov.uk\/en>\/_\n\n## U.S. EMBASSY (ATHENS)\n\n_91 Vasilisis Sophias Avenue | 10160 Athens | tel.: (Main Switchboard\/Info): 21 07 \u200b21 29 51 |<http:\/\/athens.usembassy.gov> | E-mail: athensamemb@state.gov_\n\n**\u00a3** | **\u20ac** | **\u20ac** | **\u00a3**\n\n---|---|---|---\n\n1 | 1.10 | 1 | 0.90\n\n3 | 3.30 | 3 | 2.70\n\n5 | 5.50 | 5 | 4.50\n\n13 | 14.30 | 13 | 11.70\n\n40 | 44 | 40 | 36\n\n75 | 82.50 | 75 | 67.50\n\n120 | 132 | 120 | 108\n\n250 | 275 | 250 | 225\n\n500 | 550 | 500 | 450\n\n**$** | **\u20ac** | **\u20ac** | **$**\n\n1 | 0.70 | 1 | 1.40\n\n3 | 2.10 | 3 | 4.20\n\n5 | 3.50 | 5 | 7\n\n13 | 9.10 | 13 | 18.20\n\n40 | 28 | 40 | 56\n\n75 | 52.50 | 75 | 105\n\n120 | 84 | 120 | 168\n\n250 | 175 | 250 | 350\n\n500 | 350 | 500 | 700\n\nFor current exchange rates see www.xe.com\n\n# CUSTOMS\n\nEU citizens can import and export goods for their personal use tax-free (800 cigarettes, 1 kg tobacco, 90 l of wine, 10 l of spirits over 22 %).\n\nVisitors from other countries must observe the following limits, except for items for personal use. Duty free are: max. 50 g perfume, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 250 g to-bacco, 1 L of spirits (over 22 % vol.), 2 Lof spirits (under 22 % vol.), 2 L of any wine. Gifts to the value of up to 175 euros may be brought into Greece.\n\nThere are special regulations for souvenirs from day trips to Albania: You may only bring back 40 cigarettes, 1 L of spirits or 2 L of wine.\n\n# DISCOTHEQUES\n\nGreek discos do not usually open before 10 or 11pm. There is generally no entrance fee but the drinks are expensive; a long drink costs between 6 and 10 euros, a small bottle of beer 3 to 5 euros. There is no age check.\n\n# EMERGENCY SERVICES\n\n112 for the police, fire brigade and ambulance; 171 for the tourist police\n\n# ELECTRICITY\n\nCorfu has the same 220 volt as most continental European countries. You will need an adapter if you want to use a UK plug.\n\n# ENTRANCE FEES\n\nNational museums give discounts to pensioners over 65 years of age. Children from EU countries and students with an International Student Card are granted free admission. A joint ticket for the Archaeological Museum, Museum for Asian Art, the Byzantine Museum and Old Fortress is available at the ticket desk of any one of the four institutions for 8 euros. This represents a saving of 4 euros compared to the price of separate tickets.\n\nThere is no entrance fee for visiting churches and monasteries but donations are always welcome. The most discreet way to do this is to buy candles and light them in front of an icon with a prayer of intercession.\n\n# HEALTH\n\nWell-trained doctors guarantee basic medical care. However, there is often a lack of medical equipment. The standard of the government hospital in K\u00e9rkyra is low. Complicated cases are sent to Athens. If you are seriously ill or injured, you should try to fly home.\n\nEmergency treatment in hospitals and government health centres _(ESY, National Health Centre)_ is free of charge. Theoretically, medical treatment from doctors in the state scheme is also free if you present the European Health Insurance Card issued by your own insurance company. However, in practice this is complicated and time-consuming. It is highly recommended that you take out an international health insurance; you can then choose your doctor, pay him in cash, get a receipt and then present your bills to the insurance company for refunding.\n\nChemists are well-stocked but do not always have British medication. In Greece, many branded medicines which are only available if you have a prescription in other countries, can be purchased without one and are cheaper than at home. These include painkillers and remedies for heartburn and herpes. You are only able to import small quantities to protect the financial interests of the pharmaceutical industry.\n\nMosquitoes also like Corfu. You should have mosquito protection in your first-aid kit as well as something for insect bites. Bathing shoes will protect you from sea urchins. There are no poisonous snakes or scorpions on the island.\n\n# IMMIGRATION INTO GREECE\n\nA valid passport is required for entry into Greece. All children must travel with their own passport.\n\n# INFORMATION\n\n## GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION\n\n_\u2013 4 Conduit Street | London, W1S 2DJ | tel. 020 7495 9300_\n\n_\u2013www.visitgreece.gr; www.corfuvisit.net_\n\n## IONIAN ISLANDS TOURISM DIRECTORATE OFFICE\n\nOpen Mon to Fri 9am to 9pm; in July and August, also open on Saturdays. _Evagelistrias 4, 49100 Kerkyra | tel.: 26 61 03 75 20 | fax: 26 61 03 02 98_\n\n# INTERNET CAF\u00c9S & WIFI\n\nThere are internet caf\u00e9s in most holiday resorts. You can surf in comfort at Neto\u00edkos near the \u00c1gios Spir\u00eddonas Church in K\u00e9rkyra's Old Town _(daily 10am\u2013midnight | Od\u00f3s Kaloger\u00e9tou 14 | tel. 26 61 04 74 91)._\n\nIn Greece a lot of hotels offer guests who have their own laptops free Wi-Fi access \u2013 at least in the lobby area. Some of the more expensive hotels however charge for this.\n\nAt the other end of the scale, an increasing number of caf\u00e9s, bars and tavernas let their guests use this service free of charge; the transmission rate is usually very high.\n\n# LANGUAGE\n\nThe Greeks are proud of the characters in their language which are unique to Greece. Although place names and labels are often also written in Roman letters, it is still useful to have some knowledge of the Greek alphabet \u2013 and you really need to know how to stress the words correctly to be understood. The vowel with the accent is emphasised. The transcription of Greek names in the map section is based on the recommended international UN style. However, as this is seldom used in Greece itself, the text section of this guidebook is orientated on the standard pronunciation and spelling style used locally.\n\n# MONEY & CREDIT CARDS\n\nThe national currency is the euro. You can withdraw money from many cash machines with yourcredit or debit card. Banks and post offices cash traveller's cheques. Credit cards (especially Visa and MasterCard) are accepted by many hotels and restaurants but only by a few petrol stations, tavernas and shops. Bank opening hours are _Mon\u2013Thur 8am\u20132pm, Fri 8am\u20131.30pm_\n\n# NEWSPAPERS\n\nForeign newspapers can usually be bought on Corfu one day after they appear. The English language weekly _Athens News_ and monthly _The Corfiot_ are published locally.\n\n# PHOTOS & FILMS\n\nYou can have digital photos burned on a CD in most photo shops or do it yourself in an internet caf\u00e9. Storage media and rechargeable batteries are available in photo shops but are expensive as are films and standard batteries. You need permission to take photos using a tripod or flash. Photographing is frowned upon in churches.\n\n# POST\n\nThere are post offices in K\u00e9rkyra and all major villages. It usually takes from 3 to 7 days for post to reach other European destinations. The large post offices always have a small selection of, often unusual, stamps.\n\nPost offices are usually open from Mon to Fri from 7.30am to 8pm; in July and August they are normally also open for a few hours on Saturdays.\n\n# TAXI\n\nThere are plenty of taxis in K\u00e9rkyra. You can flag them down on the street, get in at the taxi ranks or telephone for one. The prices are set by the government and are comparatively low (e.g. Airport\u2013town centre 8\u201312 euros). But, make sure that the taxi driver uses tariff 1 within the city limits; tariff 2 only applies to cross-country trips!\n\nOutside the town, the taxis are officially called _agora\u00edon_. Their rates are the same as taxis but they do not have a meter. You pay a set price for a specific distance.\n\n# PHONE & MOBILE PHONE\n\nCard phones are very common. You can buy telephone cards priced at 4 euros from the offices of the OTE telephone company and many kiosks.\n\nWith the exception of some emergency numbers, all Greek telephone numbers have ten digits. There are no area dialling codes. Greek mobile phone numbers always begin with '6'. Dialling codes: Greece 0030 followed by the telephone number.\n\nCode for Australia (0061), Canada (001), Ireland (00353), United Kingdom (0044), USA (001) followed by the area code without '0'.\n\nMobile phones are widely used. Recep-tion is generally good except in some valleys. If you use a pre-paid Greek card you will not have to pay for incoming calls. These cards are available from the numerous shops run by the telecommunications companies such as Cosmote, Vodafone and Wind. The first time you buy a pre-paid Greek card, you will have to register by presenting your passport. Cards for reloading can also be purchased from many kiosks and supermarkets.\n\n# TIPPING\n\nLike most other places in Europe, but at least 50 cents.\n\n# TIME\n\nGreece is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, seven hours ahead of US Eastern Time and seven hours behind Australian Eastern Time.\n\nIt doesn't take a lot to be environmentally friendly whilst travelling. Don't just think about your carbon footprint whilst flying to and from your holiday destination but also about how you can protect nature and culture abroad. As a tourist it is especially important to respect nature, look out for local products, cycle instead of driving, save water and much more. If you would like to find out more about eco-tourism please visit: _www.ecotourism.org_\n\n## IN BRIEF | GREETINGS, FAREWELL | DATE & TIME | TRAVEL | FOOD & DRINK | SHOPPING | ACCOMMODATION | HEALTH | POST, TELECOMMUNICATIONS & MEDIA | LEISURE, SPORTS & BEACH | NUMBERS\n\nWe have provided a simple pronunciation aid for the Greek words (see middle column). Note the following:\n\n---\n\n' | the following syllable is emphasized\n\n\u00f0 | in Greek (shown as \"dh\" in middle column) is like \"th\" in \"there\"\n\n\u03b8 | in Greek (shown as \"th\" in middle column) is like \"th\" in \"think\"\n\nX | in Greek (shown as \"ch\" in middle column) is like a rough \"h\" or \"ch\" in Scottish \"loch\"\n\nA \u03b1 a | \u0397 \u03b7 i | \u039d \u03bd n | \u03a4 \u03c4 t\n\n---|---|---|---\n\nB \u03b2 v | \u0398 \u03b8 th | \u039e \u03be ks, x | \u03a5 \u03c5 i, y\n\n\u0413 \u03b3 g, y | \u0399 \u03b9 i, y | \u039f \u03bf o | \u03a6 \u03c6 f\n\n\u0394 \u03b4 th | \u039a \u03ba k | \u03a0 \u043b p | \u03a7 \u03c7 ch\n\n\u0395 \u03b5 e | \u039b \u03bb l | \u03a1 \u03c1 r | \u03a8 \u03c8 ps\n\n\u0396 \u03b6 z | \u039c \u03bc m | \u03a3 \u03c3, \u03c2 s, ss | \u03a9 \u03ce o\n\n# IN BRIEF\n\n---\n\nYes\/ No\/ Maybe | ne\/ 'ochi\/ 'issos | \u039d\u03b1\u03b9\/ \u038c\u03c7\u03b9\/ \u038a\u03c3\u03c9\u03c2\n\nPlease\/ Thank you | paraka'lo\/ efcharis'to | \u03a0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03ce\/ \u0395\u03c5\u03c7\u03b1\u03c1\u03b9\u03c3\u03c4\u03ce\n\nSorry | sig'nomi | \u03a3\u03c5\u03b3\u03bd\u03ce\u03bc\u03b7\n\nExcuse me | me sig'chorite | \u039c\u03b5 \u03ed\u03c5\u03b3\u03c7\u03c9\u03c1\u03b5\u03af\u03c4\u03b5\n\nMay I...? | epi'treppete...? | \u0395\u03c0\u03b9\u03c4\u03c1\u03ad\u03c0\u03b5\u03c4\u03b1\u03b9...?\n\nPardon? | o'riste? | \u039f\u03c1\u03af\u03c3\u03c4\u03b5?\n\nI would like to...\/have you got...? | 'thelo...\/ 'echete...? | \u0398\u03ad\u03bb\u03c9... \u0388\u03c7\u03b5\u03c4\u03b5...?\n\nHow much is...? | 'posso 'kani...? | \u03a0\u03cc\u03c3\u03bf \u03ba\u03ac\u03bd\u03b5\u03b9...?\n\nI (don't) like this | Af'to (dhen) mu a'ressi | \u0391\u03c5\u03c4\u03cc (\u03b4\u03b5\u03bd) \u03bc\u03bf\u03c5 \u03b1\u03c1\u03ad\u03c3\u03b5\u03b9\n\ngood\/ bad | ka'llo\/ kak'ko | \u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03cc\/ \u03ba\u03b1\u03ba\u03cc\n\ntoo much\/ much\/little | 'para pol'li\/ pol'li\/ 'ligo | \u03c0\u03ac\u03c1\u03b1 \u03c0\u03bf\u03bb\u03cd\/ \u03c0\u03bf\u03bb\u03cd\/ \u03bb\u03af\u03b3\u03bf\n\neverything\/ nothing | \u00f3lla\/ 'tipottal | \u03cc\u03bb\u03b1\/ \u03c4\u03af\u03c0\u03bf\u03c4\u03b1\n\nHelp!\/ Attention!\/ Caution! | vo'ithia!\/ prosso'chi!\/ prosso'chi! | \u0392\u03bf\u03ae\u03b8\u03b5\u03b9\u03b1!\/ \u03a0\u03c1\u03bf\u03c3\u03bf\u03c7\u03ae!\/ \u03a0\u03c1\u03bf\u03c3\u03bf\u03c7\u03ae!\n\nambulance | astheno'forro | \u0391\u03c3\u03b8\u03b5\u03bd\u03bf\u03c6\u03cc\u03c1\u03bf\n\npolice\/ fire brigade | astino'mia\/ pirosvesti'ki | \u0391\u03c3\u03c4\u03c5\u03bd\u03bf\u03bc\u03af\u03b1\/ \u03a0\u03c5\u03c1\u03bf\u03c3\u03b2\u03b5\u03c3\u03c4\u03b9\u03ba\u03ae\n\nban\/ forbidden | apa'gorefsi\/ apago'revete | \u0391\u03c0\u03b1\u03b3\u03cc\u03c1\u03b5\u03c5\u03c3\u03b7\/ \u03b1\u03c0\u03b1\u03b3\u03bf\u03c1\u03ad\u03c5\u03b5\u03c4\u03b1\u03b9\n\ndanger\/ dangerous | 'kindinoss\/ epi'kindinoss | \u039a\u03af\u03bd\u03b4\u03c5\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2\/ \u03b5\u03c0\u03b9\u03ba\u03af\u03bd\u03b4\u03c5\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2\n\n# GREETINGS, FAREWELL\n\n---\n\nGood morning!\/ afternoon!\/ evening!\/ night! | kalli'mera\/ kalli'mera!\/ kalli'spera!\/ kalli'nichta! | \u039a\u03b1\u03bb\u03b7\u03bc\u03ad\u03c1\u03b1\/ \u039a\u03b1\u03bb\u03b7\u03bc\u03ad\u03c1\u03b1!\/ \u039a\u03b1\u03bb\u03b7\u03c3\u03c0\u03ad\u03c1\u03b1!\/ \u039a\u03b1\u03bb\u03b7\u03bd\u03cd\u03c7\u03c4\u03b1!\n\nHello!\/goodbye! | 'ya (su\/ sass)!\/a'dio!\/ya (su\/ sass)! | \u0393\u03b5\u03af\u03b1 (\u03ed\u03bf\u03c5\/ \u03c3\u03b1\u03c2)!\/ \u03b1\u03bd\u03c4\u03af\u03bf!\/ \u0393\u03b5\u03af\u03b1 (\u03c3\u03bf\u03c5\/ \u03c3\u03b1\u03c2)!\n\nBye! | me 'lene... | \u039c\u03b5 \u03bb\u03ad\u03bd\u03b5...\n\nMy name is... | poss sass 'lene? | \u03a0\u03c9\u03c2 \u03c3\u03b1\u03c2 \u03bb\u03ad\u03bd\u03b5?\n\n# DATE & TIME\n\n---\n\nMonday\/ Tuesday | dhef'tera\/ 'triti | \u0394\u03b5\u03c5\u03c4\u03ad\u03c1\u03b1\/ \u03a4\u03c1\u03af\u03c4\u03b7\n\nWednesday\/ Thursday | tet'tarti\/ 'pempti | \u03a4\u03b5\u03c4\u03ac\u03c1\u03c4\u03b7\/ \u03a0\u03ad\u03bc\u03c0\u03c4\u03b7\n\nFriday\/ Saturday | paraske'vi\/ 'savatto | \u03a0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03c3\u03ba\u03b5\u03c5\u03ae\/ \u03a3\u03ac\u03b2\u03b2\u03b1\u03c4\u03bf\n\nSunday\/ weekday | kiria'ki\/ er'gassimi | \u039a\u03c5\u03c1\u03b9\u03b1\u03ba\u03ae\/ \u0395\u03c1\u03b3\u03ac\u03c3\u03b9\u03bc\u03b7\n\ntoday\/ tomorrow\/yesterday | 'simera\/ 'avrio\/ chtess | \u03a3\u03ae\u03bc\u03b5\u03c1\u03b1\/ \u0391\u03cd\u03c1\u03b9\u03bf\/ \u03a7\u03c4\u03b5\u03c2\n\nWhat time is it? | ti 'ora 'ine? | \u03a4\u03b9 \u03ce\u03c1\u03b1 \u03b5\u03af\u03bd\u03b1\u03b9?\n\n# TRAVEL\n\n---\n\nopen\/ closed | annik'ta\/ klis'to | \u0391\u03bd\u03bf\u03b9\u03ba\u03c4\u03cc\/ \u039a\u03bb\u03b5\u03b9\u03c3\u03c4\u03cc\n\nentrance\/ driveway | 'issodhos\/ 'issodhos ochi'matonn | \u0388\u03b9\u03ed\u03bf\u03b4\u03bf\u03c2\/ \u0388\u03b9\u03ed\u03bf\u03b4\u03bf\u03c2 \u03bf\u03c7\u03b7\u03bc\u03ac\u03c4\u03c9\u03bd\n\nexit\/ exit | 'eksodhos\/ 'Eksodos ochi'matonn | \u0388\u03be\u03bf\u03b4\u03bf\u03c2\/ \u0388\u03be\u03bf\u03b4\u03bf\u03c2 \u03bf\u03c7\u03b7\u03bc\u03ac\u03c4\u03c9\u03bd\n\ndeparture\/ departure\/arrival | anna'chorissi\/ anna'chorissi\/ 'afiksi | \u0391\u03bd\u03b1\u03c7\u03ce\u03c1\u03b7\u03c3\u03b7\/ \u0391\u03bd\u03b1\u03c7\u03ce\u03c1\u03b7\u03c3\u03b7\/ \u0386\u03c6\u03b9\u03be\u03b7\n\ntoilets\/ restrooms \/ ladies\/ gentlemen | tual'lettes\/ gine'konn\/ an'dronn | \u03a4\u03bf\u03c5\u03b1\u03bb\u03ad\u03c4\u03b5\u03c2\/ \u0393\u03c5\u03bd\u03b1\u03b9\u03ba\u03ce\u03bd\/ \u0391\u03bd\u03b4\u03c1\u03ce\u03bd\n\n(no) drinking water | 'possimo ne'ro | \u03a0\u03cc\u03c3\u03b9\u03bc\u03bf \u03bd\u03b5\u03c1\u03cc\n\nWhere is...?\/Where are...? | pu 'ine...?\/pu 'ine...? | \u03a0\u03bf\u03cd \u03b5\u03af\u03bd\u03b1\u03b9\/ \u03a0\u03bf\u03cd \u03b5\u03af\u03bd\u03b1\u03b9...?\n\nbus\/ taxi | leofo'rio\/ tak'si | \u039b\u03b5\u03c9\u03c6\u03bf\u03c1\u03b5\u03af\u03bf\/ \u03a4\u03b1\u03be\u03af\n\nstreet map\/ map | 'chartis tis 'pollis\/ 'chartis | \u03a7\u03ac\u03c1\u03c4\u03b7\u03c2 \u03c4\u03b7\u03c2 \u03c0\u03cc\u03bb\u03b7\u03c2\/ \u03a7\u03ac\u03c1\u03c4\u03b7\u03c2\n\nharbour | li'mani | \u039b\u03b9\u03bc\u03ac\u03bd\u03b9\n\nairport | a-ero'drommio | \u0391\u03b5\u03c1\u03bf\u03b4\u03c1\u03cc\u03bc\u03b9\u03bf\n\nschedule\/ ticket | drommo'logio\/ issi'tirio | \u0394\u03c1\u03bf\u03bc\u03bf\u03bb\u03cc\u03b3\u03b9\u03bf\/ \u0395\u03b9\u03c3\u03b9\u03c4\u03ae\u03c1\u03b9\u03bf\n\nI would like to rent... | 'thelo na nik'yasso... | \u0398\u03ad\u03bb\u03c9 \u03bd\u03b1 \u03bd\u03bf\u03b9\u03ba\u03b9\u03ac\u03c3\u03c9...\n\na car\/ a bicycle\/ a boat | 'enna afto'kinito\/ 'enna\/ po'dhilato\/ 'mia 'varka | \u03ad\u03bd\u03b1 \u03b1\u03c5\u03c4\u03bf\u03ba\u03af\u03bd\u03b7\u03c4\u03bf\/ \u03ad\u03bd\u03b1  \n\u03c0\u03bf\u03b4\u03ae\u03bb\u03b1\u03c4\u03bf\/ \u03bc\u03af\u03b1 \u03b2\u03ac\u03c1\u03ba\u03b1\n\npetrol\/ gas station | venzi'nadiko | \u0392\u03b5\u03bd\u03b6\u03b9\u03bd\u03ac\u03b4\u03b9\u03ba\u03bf\n\npetrol\/ gas \/ diesel | ven'zini\/ 'diesel | \u0392\u03b5\u03bd\u03b6\u03af\u03bd\u03b7\/ \u039d\u03c4\u03af\u03b6\u03b5\u03bb\n\n# FOOD & DRINK\n\n---\n\nCould you please | Klis'te mass parakal'lo | \u039a\u03bb\u03b5\u03af\u03c3\u03c4\u03b5 \u03bc\u03b1\u03c2 \u03c0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03ce\n\nbook a table for | 'enna tra'pezi ya a'popse | \u03ad\u03bd\u03b1 \u03c4\u03c1\u03b1\u03c0\u03ad\u03b6\u03b9 \u03b3\u03b9\u03ac \u03b1\u03c0\u03cc\u03c8\u03b5\n\ntonight for four? | ya 'tessera 'atoma | \u03b3\u03b9\u03ac \u03c4\u03ad\u03c3\u03c3\u03b5\u03c1\u03b1 \u03ac\u03c4\u03bf\u03bc\u03b1\n\nThe menu, please | tonn ka'taloggo  \nparakal'lo | \u03a4\u03bf\u03bd \u03ba\u03b1\u03c4\u03ac\u03bb\u03bf\u03b3\u03bf  \n\u03c0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03ce\n\nCould I please have...? | tha 'ithella na 'echo...? | \u0398\u03b1 \u03ae\u03b8\u03b5\u03bb\u03b1 \u03bd\u03b1 \u03ad\u03c7\u03bf...?\n\nwith\/ without ice\/ sparkling | me\/ cho'ris 'pago\/ anthrakik'ko | \u03bc\u03b5\/ \u03c7\u03c9\u03c1\u03af\u03c2 \u03c0\u03ac\u03b3\u03bf\/ \u03b1\u03bd\u03b8\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03b9\u03ba\u03cc\n\nvegetarian\/ allergy | chorto'fagos\/ allerg'ia | \u03a7\u03bf\u03c1\u03c4\u03bf\u03c6\u03ac\u03b3\u03bf\u03c2\/ \u0391\u03bb\u03bb\u03b5\u03c1\u03b3\u03af\u03b1\n\nMay I have the bill, | 'thel'lo na pli'rosso | \u0398\u03ad\u03bb\u03c9 \u03bd\u03b1 \u03c0\u03bb\u03b7\u03c1\u03ce\u03c3\u03c9\n\nplease? | parakal'lo | \u03c0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03ce\n\n# SHOPPING\n\n---\n\nWhere can I find...? | pu tha vro...? | \u03a0\u03bf\u03c5 \u03b8\u03b1 \u03b2\u03c1\u03c9...?\n\npharmacy\/ chemist | farma'kio\/ ka'tastima | \u03a6\u03b1\u03c1\u03bc\u03b1\u03ba\u03b5\u03af\u03bf\/ \u039a\u03b1\u03c4\u03ac\u03c3\u03c4\u03b7\u03bc\u03b1  \n\u03ba\u03b1\u03bb\u03bb\u03c5\u03bd\u03c4\u03b9\u03ba\u03ce\u03bd\n\nbakery\/ market | 'furnos\/ ago'ra | \u03a6\u03bf\u03cd\u03c1\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2\/ \u0391\u03b3\u03bf\u03c1\u03ac\n\ngrocery | pandopo'lio | \u03a0\u03b1\u03bd\u03c4\u03bf\u03c0\u03c9\u03bb\u03b5\u03af\u03bf\n\nkiosk | pe'riptero | \u03a0\u03b5\u03c1\u03af\u03c0\u03c4\u03b5\u03c1\u03bf\n\nexpensive\/ cheap\/price | akri'vos\/ fti'nos\/ ti'mi | \u03b1\u03ba\u03c1\u03b9\u03b2\u03cc\u03c2\/ \u03c6\u03c4\u03b7\u03bd\u03cc\u03c2\/ \u03a4\u03b9\u03bc\u03ae\n\nmore\/ less | pio\/ li'gotere | \u03c0\u03b9\u03cc\/ \u03bb\u03b9\u03b3\u03cc\u03c4\u03b5\u03c1\u03bf\n\n# ACCOMMODATION\n\n---\n\nI have booked a room | 'kratissa 'enna do'matio | \u039a\u03c1\u03ac\u03c4\u03b7\u03c3\u03b1 \u03ad\u03bd\u03b1 \u03b4\u03c9\u03bc\u03ac\u03c4\u03b9\u03bf\n\nDo you have any... left? | 'echete a'komma... | \u0388\u03c7\u03b5\u03c4\u03b5 \u03b1\u03ba\u03cc\u03bc\u03b1...\n\nsingle room | mon'noklino | \u039c\u03bf\u03bd\u03cc\u03ba\u03bb\u03b9\u03bd\u03bf\n\ndouble room | 'diklino | \u0394\u03af\u03ba\u03bb\u03b9\u03bd\u03bf\n\nkey | kli'dhi | \u039a\u03bb\u03b5\u03b9\u03b4\u03af\n\nroom card | ilektronni'ko kli'dhi | \u0397\u03bb\u03b5\u03ba\u03c4\u03c1\u03bf\u03bd\u03b9\u03ba\u03cc \u03ba\u03bb\u03b5\u03b9\u03b4\u03af\n\n# HEALTH\n\n---\n\ndoctor\/ dentist\/ paediatrician | ya'tros\/ odhondoya'tros\/ pe'dhiatros | \u0399\u03b1\u03c4\u03c1\u03cc\u03c2\/ \u039f\u03b4\u03bf\u03bd\u03c4\u03bf\u03b3\u03b9\u03b1\u03c4\u03c1\u03cc\u03c2\/ \u03a0\u03b1\u03b9\u03b4\u03af\u03b1\u03c4\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2\n\nhospital\/ emergency clinic | nossoko'mio\/ yatri'ko 'kentro | \u039d\u03bf\u03c3\u03bf\u03ba\u03bf\u03bc\u03b5\u03af\u03bf\/ \u0399\u03b1\u03c4\u03c1\u03b9\u03ba\u03cc \u03ba\u03ad\u03bd\u03c4\u03c1\u03bf\n\nfever\/ pain | piret'tos\/ 'ponnos | \u03a0\u03c5\u03c1\u03b5\u03c4\u03cc\u03c2\/ \u03a0\u03cc\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2\n\ndiarrhoea\/ nausea | dhi'arria\/ ana'gula | \u0394\u03b9\u03ac\u03c1\u03c1\u03bf\u03b9\u03b1\/ \u0391\u03bd\u03b1\u03b3\u03bf\u03cd\u03bb\u03b1\n\nsunburn | ilia'ko 'engavma | \u0397\u03bb\u03b9\u03b1\u03ba\u03cc \u03ad\u03b3\u03ba\u03b1\u03c5\u03bc\u03b1\n\ninflamed\/ injured | molli'menno\/ pligo'menno | \u03bc\u03bf\u03bb\u03c5\u03bc\u03ad\u03bd\u03bf\/ \u03c0\u03bb\u03b7\u03b3\u03c9\u03bc\u03ad\u03bd\u03bf\n\npain reliever\/ tablet | paf'siponna\/ 'chapi | \u03a0\u03b1\u03c5\u03c3\u03af\u03c0\u03bf\u03bd\u03bf\/ \u03a7\u03ac\u03c0\u03b9\n\n# POST, TELECOMMUNICATIONS & MEDIA\n\n---\n\nstamp\/ letter | gramma'tossimo\/ 'gramma | \u0393\u03c1\u03b1\u03bc\u03bc\u03b1\u03c4\u03cc\u03c3\u03b7\u03bc\u03bf\/ \u0393\u03c1\u03ac\u03bc\u03bc\u03b1\n\npostcard | kartpos'tall | \u039a\u03b1\u03c1\u03c4-\u03c0\u03bf\u03c3\u03c4\u03ac\u03bb\n\nI need a landline  \nphone card | kri'azomme 'mia  \ntile'karta ya dhi'mossio  \ntilefoni'ko 'thalamo | \u03a7\u03c1\u03b5\u03b9\u03ac\u03b6\u03bf\u03bc\u03b1\u03b9 \u03bc\u03af\u03b1  \n\u03c4\u03b7\u03bb\u03b5\u03ba\u03ac\u03c1\u03c4\u03b1 \u03b3\u03b9\u03b1 \u03b4\u03b7\u03bc\u03cc\u03c3\u03b9\u03bf  \n\u03c4\u03b7\u03bb\u03b5\u03c6\u03c9\u03bd\u03b9\u03ba\u03cc \u03b8\u03ac\u03bb\u03b1\u03bc\u03bf\n\nI'm looking for a prepaid  \ncard for my mobile | tha 'ithella 'mia 'karta  \nya to kinni'to mu | \u0398\u03b1 \u03ae\u03b8\u03b5\u03bb\u03b1 \u03bc\u03af\u03b1 \u03ba\u03ac\u03c1\u03c4\u03b1 \u03b3\u03b9\u03b1  \n\u03c4\u03bf \u03ba\u03b9\u03bd\u03b7\u03c4\u03cc \u03bc\u03bf\u03c5\n\nWhere can I find internet access? | pu bor'ro na vro 'prosvassi sto \u00edndernett? | \u03a0\u03bf\u03c5 \u03bc\u03c0\u03bf\u03c1\u03ce \u03bd\u03b1 \u03b2\u03c1\u03c9 \u03c0\u03c1\u03cc\u03c3\u03b2\u03b1\u03c3\u03b7 \u03c3\u03c4\u03bf \u03af\u03bd\u03c4\u03b5\u03c1\u03bd\u03b5\u03c4?\n\nsocket\/ adapter\/ charger | 'briza\/ an'dapporras\/ fortis'tis | \u03c0\u03c1\u03af\u03b6\u03b1\/ \u03b1\u03bd\u03c4\u03ac\u03c0\u03c4\u03bf\u03c1\u03b1\u03c2\/ \u03c6\u03bf\u03c1\u03c4\u03b9\u03c3\u03c4\u03ae\u03c2\n\ncomputer\/ battery\/ rechargeable battery | ippologis'tis\/ batta'ria\/ eppanaforti'zomenni batta'ria | \u03a5\u03c0\u03bf\u03bb\u03bf\u03b3\u03b9\u03c3\u03c4\u03ae\u03c2\/ \u03bc\u03c0\u03b1\u03c4\u03b1\u03c1\u03af\u03b1\/ \u03b5\u03c0\u03b1\u03bd\u03b1\u03c6\u03bf\u03c1\u03c4\u03b9\u03b6\u03cc\u03bc\u03b5\u03bd\u03b7 \u03bc\u03c0\u03b1\u03c4\u03b1\u03c1\u03af\u03b1\n\ninternet connection\/ wifi | 'sindhessi se as'sirmato 'dhitio\/ vaifai | \u03a3\u03cd\u03bd\u03b4\u03b5\u03c3\u03b7 \u03c3\u03b5 \u03b1\u03c3\u03cd\u03c1\u03bc\u03b1\u03c4\u03bf \u03b4\u03af\u03ba\u03c4\u03c5\u03bf\/WiFi\n\n# LEISURE, SPORTS & BEACH\n\n---\n\nbeach | para'lia | \u03a0\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03bb\u03af\u03b1\n\nsunshade\/ lounger | om'brella\/ ksap'plostra | \u039f\u03bc\u03c0\u03c1\u03ad\u03bb\u03b1\/ \u039e\u03b1\u03c0\u03bb\u03ce\u03c3\u03c4\u03c1\u03b1\n\n# NUMBERS\n\n---\n\n0 | mi'dhen | \u03bc\u03b7\u03b4\u03ad\u03bd\n\n1 | 'enna | \u03ad\u03bd\u03b1\n\n2 | 'dhio | \u03b4\u03cd\u03bf\n\n3 | 'tria | \u03c4\u03c1\u03af\u03b1\n\n4 | 'tessera | \u03c4\u03ad\u03c3\u03c3\u03b5\u03c1\u03b1\n\n5 | 'pende | \u03c0\u03ad\u03bd\u03c4\u03b5\n\n6 | 'eksi | \u03ad\u03be\u03b9\n\n7 | ef'ta | \u03b5\u03c6\u03c4\u03ac\n\n8 | och'to | \u03bf\u03c7\u03c4\u03ce\n\n9 | e'nea | \u03b5\u03bd\u03bd\u03ad\u03b1\n\n10 | 'dhekka | \u03b4\u03ad\u03ba\u03b1\n\n11 | 'endhekka | \u03ad\u03bd\u03b4\u03b5\u03ba\u03b1\n\n12 | 'dodhekka | \u03b4\u03ce\u03b4\u03b5\u03ba\u03b1\n\n20 | 'ikossi | \u03b5\u03af\u03ba\u03bf\u03c3\u03b9\n\n50 | pen'inda | \u03c0\u03b5\u03bd\u03ae\u03bd\u03c4\u03b1\n\n100 | eka'to | \u03b5\u03ba\u03b1\u03c4\u03cc\n\n200 | dhia'kossia | \u03b4\u03b9\u03b1\u03ba\u03cc\u03c3\u03b9\u03b1\n\n1000 | 'chilia | \u03c7\u03af\u03bb\u03b9\u03b1\n\n10000 | 'dhekka chil'iades | \u03b4\u03ad\u03ba\u03b1 \u03c7\u03b9\u03bb\u03b9\u03ac\u03b4\u03b5\u03c2\n\nThis EBook is a digital adaption of Marco Polo travelguide Corfu  \n1st Edition 2012\n\nWorldwide Distribution: Marco Polo Travel Publishing Ltd, Pinewood, Chineham Business Park, Crockford Lane, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG24 8AL, United Kingdom. Email: sales@marcopolouk.com\n\n\u00a9 MAIRDUMONT GmbH & Co. KG, Ostfildern\n\n**Author:**  \nKlaus B\u00f6tig; Editor: Marlis von Hessert-Fraatz\n\n**EBook:**  \nProduct Development: Carolin Schmid, Sonja Stein  \nTechnical Implementation: Integra Software Services Private Limited, India\n\n**Print Edition:**\n\nChief editors: Michaela Lienemann (concept, managing editor), Marion Zorn (concept, text editor)\n\nProgramme supervision: Ann-Kathrin Kutzner, Nikolai Michaelis, Silwen Randebrock\n\nPicture editor: Gabriele Forst\n\nWhat's hot: wunder media, Munich\n\nCartography road atlas: \u00a9 MAIRDUMONT, Ostfildern\n\nFront cover, title: factor product munich\n\nTranslated from German by Kathleen Becker and John Sykes, editor of the English edition: Kathleen Becker and John Sykes\n\nPhrase book in cooperation with Ernst Klett Sprachen GmbH, Stuttgart, Editorial by Pons W\u00f6rterb\u00fccher\n\nAll rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without prior written permission from the publisher.\n\n##  Map Legend\n\n##  Road Atlas | Map Legend\n\n##  Road Atlas | Map Legend\n\n##  Road Atlas | Map Legend\n\nMap Corfu\n\n##  Road Atlas | Map Legend\n\n---  \nRoad Atlas\n","meta":{"redpajama_set_name":"RedPajamaBook"}}
+{"text":"\n\n\n\nProduced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed\nProofreading Team at http:\/\/www.pgdp.net\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: CHAMBERS'S JOURNAL\n\nOF\n\nPOPULAR\n\nLITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART.\n\nFourth Series\n\nCONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS.\n\nNO. 685.      SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 1877.      PRICE 1\u00bd_d._]\n\n\n\n\nTHE WOODEN LEG.\n\n\nA number of years ago, when temporarily residing at a quiet sea-side\nresort in the south of England, time hung heavy on our hands. We had\nno conversable acquaintances, no books to fall back upon, nothing to\nexcite any particular interest. Before quitting home we had promised\nto write to an aged invalid lady and her two daughters about anything\nthat occurred during our stay at this sea-side retreat, but felt at a\nloss what to write about. At length something cast up. It was greedily\nseized upon, and formed the subject of a letter, which long after being\nforgotten, has been accidentally put into our hands by the elder of the\ntwo daughters, to whom it was addressed, with the remark that it had\nbeen the means of amusing her poor dear mamma, now passed away. The\nremark consoled us, for the letter was anything but brilliant. We offer\nour readers a copy, as a specimen of an attempt at squeezing literary\nmaterial out of a dreadfully dull watering-place.\n\n'Since coming to this retired spot, I have noticed two ladies with\nwooden legs. These require to be described separately, for the legs\ndiffer in character, and I daresay materially differed in price. They\nmay be spoken of as legs Nos. 1 and 2. Leg number one consists of a\nrounded black pin of the old genuine wooden-leg type, and which is now\nvery much less common than it used to be within my remembrance. The leg\nis neatly turned, with no disguise about it--a downright wooden leg as\nmay be seen by all the world. To all appearance it does not form an\nentire leg. It evidently goes only as high as the knee. This half-leg,\nas it correctly should be called, belongs to a smart well-dressed\nyoung lady, who stumps about with it beautifully, though no doubt\nwith considerable exertion. As the knee seemingly rests on a cushion,\nthe lower part of the unfortunate limb projects behind, yet not in\nan ungainly way. Thanks to crinoline, the real leg and foot are to a\ncertain extent shrouded from observation. However, one can see a kind\nof jerking out of the foot, on every movement of the red petticoat and\ntucked-up dress behind.\n\n'While compassionating one so young and so beautiful on account of\nwhat appeared an irreparable misfortune, it is quite pleasing to see\nhow smartly she goes about with her wooden leg. Gaily dressed, turban\nwith a delicate feather, tucked-up dress, she walks on at a good pace,\nlaughing, chatting, and in as high spirits as if nothing was the\nmatter. With two young-lady companions she daily parades on the public\nEsplanade overlooking the shingly beach. Good manners of course forbid\nany one noticing the infirmity, and nobody pays any attention to it--a\ncircumstance contributing to the young lady's sprightliness. It is\nat the oriel window of our apartments, which commands the Esplanade\nfrom end to end, that I have observed how cleverly the wooden limb is\nmanaged. Before moralising on the subject, let me say something of the\nother artificial leg.\n\n'Leg number two, as I have called it, is an ambitious leg. It is a\nsham leg which makes an attempt to seem real, and I regret to say the\nattempt is not very successful. The owner is a lady somewhat _pass\u00e9e_.\nShe is dull, I would almost say suffers under melancholy reflections.\nBeyond a doubt, her leg had been amputated above the knee, probably\nfrom having been seriously injured by some terrible accident. Looking\nat her as she walks along with a halt in her gait, I call up visions of\nthe pain she has experienced, of her sufferings, of her blighted hopes,\nof her perpetual discomfort. I also picture the trouble she has had in\nseeking about for a good artificial leg maker. How she looked over an\nassortment of legs. How she at length fixed on a particular pattern,\nand was measured for one of the same kind. Just think of being measured\nfor a leg! And think, also, of the servant coming into the parlour,\nand saying: \"If you please, ma'am, the man has come with the leg you\nordered.\" Next, think of going up to your room and trying on the leg!\nHow awkward it would at first feel--stump, stump, as you walked across\nthe floor. Weeks would elapse before the leg became at all familiar.\n\n'Although this artificial leg is to a certain extent a failure, it\nanswers its purpose better than if it had been a mere unyielding\nwooden pin. The opinion I form is that there is a deficiency in the\n_m\u00e9canique_, for while the heel goes down, the forepart of the foot\ndoes not fall or take the ground neatly. I am told that all depends on\nthe arrangement and easy working of the springs and other machinery.\nYou may have a five-pound leg or a ten-pound leg, nay, I believe, a\ntwenty or thirty-pound leg, according to the nature of the springs,\npulleys, straps, and wheel-work. For anything I can tell, the leg in\nquestion was a five-pound leg. At least, it does not appear to be of a\nhigh order. A keen regard for economy in a matter of this kind is poor\npolicy. I should say if you want an artificial leg that will look and\nact as nearly as possible like a real one, do not grudge the money.\nGet the best article in the market. Some people will remember the case\nof the Marquis of Anglesea, who lost a leg at Waterloo. His lordship\nprocured an artificial leg which was so real in appearance and was so\nadroitly managed, through the agency of springs and so on, that he rode\non horseback and danced at balls as if the sham leg consisted of real\nflesh and blood. There was a triumph of artificial leg making that\nwould do credit to our own times.\n\n'Reflecting on the two cases of ladies with artificial legs that\nhave come under my notice, I am struck with the oddity of the whole\naffair. Until these later times, it was customary to see old soldiers\nand sailors with wooden legs, and seldom any one else. Except on\nrare occasions, civilians did not get their legs shattered, ladies\nalmost never. The progress of national improvement has changed\nall that. Railway accidents--properly speaking blunders through\ncarelessness--have begun to enlarge the number of persons requiring\nartificial legs of some sort or other. Travellers are now in the\ncategory of soldiers going to battle--legs and arms fractured, ribs\nbroken, dislocations of various kinds. Fortunately, mechanical science\nkeeps pace with these disasters. Latterly great improvements have been\neffected in the construction not only of artificial legs, but of hands\nand arms. So that with sufficient care and a suitable expenditure,\nmutilation is robbed of half its horrors. The modern artificial\nleg-makers, of whom there are several in London--one notably in Oxford\nStreet--may be styled public benefactors. Such assuagements do not\nthe less incline us to sympathise with young ladies, who all at once\nwhen on a railway excursion come out of \"an accident\" with so bad a\ncompound fracture of the leg that amputation and an artificial leg\nbecome necessary. Ladies pride themselves on their neat boots and feet,\nthese being usually points for criticism. An artificial leg of any\ndescription finishes all that. Sad to contemplate. Hopes of marriage at\nan end. No more dancing or flirting, or hooking on with chatty parties\nof young gentlemen going to church. And what personal inconveniences!\nUnbuckling the leg at night on going to bed, and having to hop about or\nuse a crutch when the leg is off. Putting on the leg in the morning.\nIn sitting down, always some consideration as to how the leg is to be\nadjusted. Going up and down stairs, the real leg first at every step,\nand the artificial leg brought up behind it. The unpleasantness of\nordering boots and shoes, and the still greater unpleasantness of being\ngenerally pitied.\n\n'Such were some of the thoughts that passed through my mind. One thing\npuzzled me. How did it occur that the young lady with leg number one\nwas so happy-looking? All my preconceived notions were upset. I had\nventured to think of the bare possibility of you and your sister\nstumping down the street to church with an artificial leg--even a good\nten-pound leg full of springs--and what a calamity either of you would\nconsider it. But here to my amazement is a sweet gleesome maiden going\nabout with a wooden leg of the simplest structure, and she seems to be\nin no respect affected with the misfortune. Now, said I to myself, that\ngirl's conduct is a fine example of philosophy and pious resignation.\nKnowing that she is destined to be lame all her days, she submits with\na good grace, puts a pleasant face on the matter. Deprived of certain\nhopes of happiness befitting her age and position, she has in her dire\nmisfortune learned to say and feel, \"Thy will be done.\" That is the\nnotion I have formed regarding her, and a consideration of the cheerful\nmanner she endures her hapless infirmity does me good. The poor young\nthing is a practical example of resignation. She seems as if saying to\nme and others: \"_You_ pretend to have trials and vexations--look at me!\nYou have been spared the discomfort of a wooden leg.\" I accordingly\nfeel happier, than I might otherwise do. Thus Providence, while sending\nmisfortunes, beneficently sends consolations, and in all circumstances\nwe are not without reasons to be thankful.'\n\n    W. C.\n\n\n\n\nTHE LAST OF THE HADDONS.\n\n\nCHAPTER VII.--VANQUISHED.\n\nWe were living very quietly. Mr Farrar was getting no nearer to\nconvalescence, and all gaiety was still in abeyance. The few callers\nwho made their appearance at Fairview were mostly new acquaintances,\nmade since Lilian had returned home and her father had commenced giving\nlarge entertainments; and their visits were very 'few and far between.'\nThey were politely interested in Mr Farrar's health; hoped his charming\ndaughter would keep up her spirits; felt _quite_ sure he was safe in\nSir Clement's hands--Sir Clement was _always_ successful; and so forth:\nthen rustled smilingly away in their rich dresses; no doubt with the\npleasant consciousness of having done all that could be expected. We\non our side could well have spared them that amount of labour. Dear\nold Mrs Tipper was always depressed and conscious of her shortcomings\nafter such visits; and Lilian would nestle up closer to me, as though\nmaking a silent protest of her own against such friendship as they had\nto offer. In truth, the greater part of those who came were merely\nrich; and the two or three elderly ladies who were not unlike Mrs\nTipper, were too completely under the control of fashionable daughters\nto forget their grandeur and compare notes with her about past times,\nas they would have been only too glad to do. Mr Farrar had passed his\nold friends on the road to wealth, and had not yet quite succeeded in\novertaking more distinguished ones. The little his daughter had seen of\ntheir great friends had not made her desire to see more.\n\n'Arthur says I shall enjoy being in society when once I get used to it;\nbut---- Do you think I shall, dear Miss Haddon?'\n\n'There must be some advantage in mixing with people, dear; but you know\nI have been as little accustomed to what is called society as you have.'\n\n'I sometimes think it is that which makes it so nice to be with you.\nYou are so different from the people who come here, and so like those\nI knew in the dear old vicarage-life. You never say a thing merely\nbecause it is polite to say it.'\n\n'I hope I do not say things it is impolite to say, goosy,' I smilingly\nreplied. It was so pleasant to know that I found favour in her sight.\n\n'I wish Arthur's sister were more like you, Mary;' hesitatingly and\ngravely. 'She makes more loving speeches--she is always saying that she\nlongs for the time to come when we can be more together; and yet we\nnever seem to draw a bit nearer to each other; sometimes I almost fear\nwe never shall.'\n\nNo; they never would. I had seen quite enough of Mr Trafford's sister\nto know that Lilian and she would always be far enough apart in spirit.\nMrs Chichester was a great favourite with, and in much request by the\nworld to which she belonged. 'A young and attractive woman--a charming\nwidow, who had been unfortunate in her marriage;' said her friends.\n'A man\u0153uvrer, who had married an old man for his money, and found too\nlate that it was all settled upon his grown-up children by a former\nmarriage;' said others. She was called very sensitive and good and\nsweet. I only know that her sweetness and goodness were of a very\ndifferent texture from Lilian's.\n\nAs I watched them together, Mrs Chichester, with her pretty vapid\nface, graceful languid air, and soft voice, uttering a string of\nultra-affectionate speeches, and Lilian shyly responding in her own\nfashion with a low murmured word, a warm flush on her cheeks, or a\nlittle half-gesture, I think I rated them both at their true value.\n\nMrs Chichester was the only lady who came to Fairview upon intimate\nterms; and she only came when she could make her escape, as she termed\nit, from a host of engagements. I had my suspicions that she did not\nfind her 'dearest Lilian' quite so congenial as she affirmed. There\nwas a grave uncompromising truth about Lilian which I believe Mrs\nChichester found rather difficult to get on with for any length of\ntime. In time I noticed something else: Mrs Chichester's visits were\ngenerally made on the days we expected Robert Wentworth.\n\nFor the first two or three times of our meeting, she took great\npains to cultivate me, declaring that she foresaw we were to become\ngreat friends. But after a while I appear to have ceased to interest\nher; although she was none the less sweet and pleasant to me on the\noccasions we had anything to say to each other. In truth, I believe\nthat neither her brother nor she took very cordially to me; though both\nseemed to consider it necessary to keep up the appearance of doing so.\nHad they been more open about their sentiments, they would not have\noffended me. I had no right to expect more from them than I gave; and I\nreally gave very little.\n\nArthur Trafford might perhaps have been taken more into my favour than\nwas his sister, but for his engagement to Lilian. As an every-day young\nman, with artistic tastes, there was nothing in him to positively\nobject to. But such negative goodness was not, I told myself,\nsufficient for Lilian's husband. Her husband ought to be able to\nappreciate her in quite a different way from that of Arthur Trafford. I\nam not sure that he even knew the best part of her.\n\nI think the principal reason for his not taking to me was jealousy.\nLilian was a little too much absorbed in her new friend to please\nhim. With his sister it was different; and I was very much amused by\nher tactics. It requires little intelligence to defeat schemers, who\ngenerally plan on the supposition that some complicated machinery\nwill be used to circumvent them, and who are thrown out in their\ncalculations when one does nothing. Mrs Chichester began to adopt the\ntone of being rather afraid of Miss Haddon; and some of her little\nspeeches about my unapproachableness and so forth, reached the ears\nthey were not intended for.\n\n'If I did not see that you take to her so much, dearest, I should fancy\nher unsympathetic and cold--one of those natures one never can feel at\nhome with.--O yes;' in reply to an earnest protest from Lilian; 'good\nof course; extremely, I have no doubt; but I am so enthusiastic in my\nfriendships, and she quite chills me.'\n\nIt so happened that there was another hearer of this little speech\nbesides myself. Our dinner-party had been enlarged that evening by\nthe presence of Mr Wentworth as well as Mrs Chichester, and we had\nall dispersed afterwards, leaving Mr Farrar and his sister in the\ndrawing-room for their after-dinner rest. I had contrived to slip away\nfrom the others, and went down to my favourite seat on the low wall a\nlittle more readily than usual, turning my back upon Fairview. As Mrs\nChichester's speech sounded very close to me, I stood up. She would\nbe able to see me across the gooseberry and currant bushes, and so be\nwarned not to say more than she would like to do in my presence. But\nshe and her companion had passed on, and were, I thought, already out\nof sight. I was sitting down again, when a voice by my side quietly\nasked: 'Of whom were they speaking?'\n\n'Mr Wentworth!' I ejaculated in some surprise at his having found out\nmy retreat. I thought no one penetrated beyond the kitchen gardens.\n\nRobert Wentworth and I were becoming fast friends. The few times we\nhad met at Fairview had been sufficient to shew me that I had found a\nfriend, and no ordinary one. Moreover, I had built up a little romance\nabout him. Though I had so soon discovered the mistake I had made in\nsupposing that he was engaged to Lilian, I believed that he loved her,\nas only such men can love; and while I heartily wished he held Arthur\nTrafford's place in her heart, I felt all a woman's sympathy for one\nwhose hopes were wrecked, and who yet could bear himself so manfully.\nThis had in the outset inclined me to make friends with him more than\nwith any one else who visited Fairview. The more I knew of him, the\nmore I found to respect.\n\nAs I have said, I was not without a suspicion that Mrs Chichester\nregarded him with favourable eyes; and I will do her the justice to say\nthat I believe she was in this instance false to her creed, and loved\nhim for himself, though he was as yet said to be only a rising man.\n'He had not worked and struggled in vain, thought one or two who had\nwatched him with some interest; and there was now some chance of his\nsucceeding at the bar,' said Arthur Trafford.\n\n'Of whom were they speaking?' he repeated. It was his habit always to\nget an answer.\n\n'Of me. I think you must have guessed as much as that.'\n\nHe laughed; sitting down by my side.\n\n'Then why are you so philosophic about it? Do you think it is good to\nbe cold and unsympathetic?'\n\n'It may be good to be cold and unsympathetic--to _some_ things.'\n\n'What things?'\n\nBut I was not going to be drawn into a discussion in that direction.\nHe was always trying to lead me into abstract talk, and sometimes I\nenjoyed taking a little flight with him; but I reserved to myself the\nright of choosing the direction we should take.\n\n'What things?'\n\nI jestingly replied that I would leave him to determine what things.\n\n'You appear to very decidedly turn your back upon some things.'\n\n'I enjoy that view.'\n\nHe turned his eyes upon it for a moment. 'It is pretty enough in its\nway.'\n\n'In its way, indeed!' Then I presently went on: 'It is a way of quiet\nloveliness, which has a great charm for me in its suggestions of peace\nand rest. That house amidst the trees, by the hillside, has a special\nattraction for me. Even you must allow it is a charming retreat.'\n\n'That low house? It is well enough; but'--turning his eyes upon my\nface, he added sharply: 'What do you want with rest and peace and\ncharming retreats? What right have you to be sighing for them?'\n\n'Right? Surely every one has a right to them that can get them?'\n\n'The right is only _fairly_ won by working for it; and what have you\ndone? I mean of course, in comparison with what you have the power to\ndo.'\n\nI suppose I looked my surprise. He went on more gravely: 'Pardon me,\nbut I gave you credit for being one of the last to desire \"inglorious\nease.\" I believed that even your life here, with its many demands, is\nnot quite enough for the exercise of your full strength. Rest and peace\nare for the weak and vanquished.'\n\n'Then I suppose it is feeling weak and vanquished which makes me\nincline towards them.'\n\n'A little morbidness, more likely; the need of something to fight\nagainst. And yet,' he added musingly, 'there ought to be enough to\nexercise your energies here.'\n\n'There is enough to satisfy the most belligerent,' I replied, laughing\noutright. 'I assure you there is ample opportunity for the exercise of\nany power I may possess in that direction.'\n\n'And you acknowledge yourself vanquished?'\n\n'Not by anything here, Mr Wentworth.'\n\n'I beg your pardon;' gravely. Then, with the abruptness of friendship,\nhe presently added: 'Did Trafford give you the _Westminster_? The paper\nI marked ought to interest you.'\n\n'No; he forgot, I suppose.'\n\n'Oh, I see. I must be my own messenger next time, or--employ Becky. You\nshewed some discrimination in giving her a step in life.'\n\n'Becky! Do you know her?'\n\n'A little.'\n\n'Please do not be mysterious.'\n\n'I made her acquaintance when---- You do not think I was so inhuman as\nto let you go that day without keeping you in sight, in order to make\nsure you came to no harm. And---- Well, I did not feel quite sure about\nyou, so kept about the place until I came upon Becky; and we two struck\nup a friendship.'\n\n'It was good of you.'\n\n'Was it? I am too much accustomed to analyse motives to be quite sure\nabout that.'\n\n'And you have been in Becky's confidence all this time!' I murmured a\nlittle confusedly, with the consciousness of what that might mean.\n\n'More than she imagines, perhaps; since she is no match for me in\ndiplomacy. I need not tell you she is leal.'\n\n'No.'\n\n'How different the ring of those two voices!' he presently added, as\nthe others again approached by the path running parallel with the\nwall upon which we were sitting, and on the other side of the kitchen\ngarden, separating and screening us from observation, and across which\ncame the voices of Mrs Chichester and Lilian.\n\n'I am glad that is evident to others as well as to me,' I rejoined. 'I\nlike to think they are dissimilar in the least as well as the greatest\npoints. Lilian will never become a woman of fashion.'\n\n'Not while what she typifies is out of date.'\n\nI knew that he meant the enthusiasm and romance--the delicate purity of\nher mind, which was so harmoniously typified by her style of beauty.\nThen following out my thought, I absently added: 'And you are his\nfriend.'\n\n'We were together at Eton and Oxford. Our families are distantly\nrelated; and he being four or five years my junior, was placed by his\nfather in some degree under my charge, though we were in different\nsets.'\n\n'I can imagine that.'\n\n'He was a favourite at the university; and'--as though searching about\nin his mind for some other good thing to say--'His love for her is\nsincere.'\n\n'Yes; thank God, it is that!'\n\n'Mr Wentworth and Miss Haddon! I had not the least idea of finding\nyou here!' It was Mrs Chichester speaking, with the prettiest air of\nsurprise as she emerged from the side-path, though the keen glance with\nwhich she measured the distance between him and me was not unobserved\nby one of us. 'What a delightful retreat! May I join you?'--sitting\ndown by my side with a graceful little addendum about feeling fatigued,\nand having found herself somewhat _de trop_ with the lovers.\n\n'And gentlemen are so very frank with sisters in such cases--are they\nnot? Are you blest with brothers, Miss Haddon?' And so on, a list of\nquestions which brought out the facts that I was not only lacking in\nbrothers, but many other blessings.\n\n'Quite alone in the great world, and an orphan. How very sad!'\n\nSomeway, whenever Mrs Chichester attempted to talk sentiment, it was\napt to degenerate into bathos; more perhaps from the contrast between\nher face and manner and what she said, than from the words themselves.\n\n'And past the age for charity schools, Mrs Chichester,' I smilingly\nreplied.\n\n'Oh, but indeed, indeed, you must not think I meant anything of that\nkind!' Then, turning towards Mr Wentworth in a pretty distressed way,\nshe entreated him to help her to persuade me that she had really meant\nno harm. 'I assure you I had not the slightest intention to give\noffence; do, pray, believe it, Miss Haddon.'\n\nMrs Chichester was always so terribly afraid of offending Miss Haddon,\nand so extremely and obviously cautious lest any word of hers should\nremind me of my position.\n\n'Unfortunately the facts remain, however kind you may be about it, Mrs\nChichester,' I gravely replied. 'I _am_ an orphan, and alone in the\ngreat world.'\n\n'And so completely defenceless--so weak, and easily vanquished,'\ngravely put in Robert Wentworth.\n\n'Ah, now you are laughing at me!' she ejaculated, an angry light in her\neyes. 'I expected more courtesy from _you_, Mr Wentworth.'\n\n'I assure you I was only repeating Miss Haddon's own sentiments, Mrs\nChichester.'\n\nThis was too bad. I suppose he meant it as a punishment for my little\nexhibition of weakness. But I decided that the punishment was too great\nfor the offence, so quietly took up the gauntlet and bided my time.\n\nMrs Chichester diverged to other topics. Dear Lilian, so sweet\nand good and trusting; so entirely unsuspicious of people, and so\nforth; to which we could easily assent. But I was not sufficiently\nenthusiastic upon the subject to please Mrs Chichester, it seemed; and\nshe took great pains to assure me that she did not in the least degree\nexaggerate dear Lilian's perfections. But though he gravely assured me\nthat she did not, and even went so far as to hope that in time I should\nbecome as fully alive to Miss Farrar's good qualities, I was not to be\npiqued into giving warmer expression to my feelings. I only gave him a\nsmile for reply. Then I did what I believe was more satisfactory than\nwords to Mrs Chichester; rose and walked away, altogether unheeding\nRobert Wentworth's almost pleading protest.\n\n'The moon is just rising, Miss Haddon; and the view will be at its best\npresently.'\n\nBut I chose to punish him for his bit of treachery; and walked off,\nreminding them that it still wanted half an hour to tea-time. When the\nhalf-hour had expired, they re-entered the drawing-room, where I was\nsitting in pleasant communion with Mrs Tipper--both looking rather\ngrave, not to say out of humour.\n\n'Do you always avenge yourself in that crushing way, Miss Haddon?' he\nasked, coming to my side for a moment.\n\n'I always defend myself in the best way I can when it comes to blows,\nMr Wentworth,' I gravely replied.\n\n'And this is the young lady who fears being weak and vanquished!'\n\n'Not with such weapons as have been used to-night, Mr Wentworth.'\n\n'Well, do not talk any more about wanting rest and peace after shewing\nhow much you enjoy planting a home-thrust.'\n\n'We were talking of a very different war and a very different peace to\nthis.'\n\n'I suppose we were; and in that case it is for me to cry _peccavi_.'\n\n'Yes.'\n\n'Well, I will think about it. One should never do that on impulse.\nMeantime, good-night.'\n\nI gave him my hand with a smile. He then bade the others good-night,\nand took his departure.\n\nMrs Chichester seemed to have lost her self-control a little. She\ncertainly found it difficult to be quite as sweet and gracious to me\nas usual that night. I believe, too, that she had tried her influence\nupon Lilian with respect to me, for the latter was more than usually\ntender and loving when she came to my room that night for our little\n_t\u00eate-\u00e0-t\u00eate_. There was just the difference which might be expected in\none of her nature after hearing anything against a friend.\n\n'I love you, dear Mary--I love you. You must let me say it to-night.'\n\n'Why to-night, of all nights in the year?' I smilingly rejoined.\n\n'Because it does me real good to say it--because I must.'\n\n'And it does me real good to hear you say it. Dear Lilian, do not you\nsee how precious your love is to _me_?'\n\nI suppose that there was something in the tone which satisfied her. The\nshadow passed from her face, and she looked her bright happy self as\nshe began to talk 'Arthur' again. She had long since divined that such\ntalk did not fatigue me.\n\n'I really believe you must have a love-story of your own locked away\nsomewhere, or you would never be able to listen so patiently to me as\nyou do,' she laughingly ejaculated, intuitively lighting upon the true\nreason for my sympathy, one evening when she had been more effusive on\nthe subject than usual. 'Ah, now I am sure of it!' she added, her quick\neyes, I suppose, detecting a consciousness in mine. 'And, O Mary, when\nshall I be thought worthy to hear it?'\n\n'As though you were not that now! Dear Lilian, I should like you to\nknow--of course you shall know; and yet I think I must ask you to allow\nme to defer the telling it a little longer?'\n\n'Of course I will. But I really think I can guess--a little. If I am\nonly right, how delightful it will be!'\n\nHad I allowed her to go on--had I listened and explained, instead of\nshrinking nervously away from the subject, would it have altered the\nfuture? I was still shy and reserved about unlocking my treasure, even\nfor Lilian's eyes. I have acknowledged my morbid weakness upon the\npoint, and it did not decrease. But I very soon had something besides\nmyself to think about.\n\n\nCHAPTER VIII.--'THROUGH THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.'\n\nMr Farrar grew suddenly and rapidly worse; and the doctors, hastily\nsummoned, saw that it was necessary to be frank and explicit with Mrs\nTipper and me as to his true state. His disease was approaching a\nfatal point, and his time was very short, they affirmed. Before we had\ntime to prepare Lilian for the shock, the fiat went forth that the\nend might be expected in a few hours. Poor Mrs Tipper shut herself up\nwith her grief; and to me was deputed the painful task of making the\ntruth known to his child. She was at first completely overwhelmed. That\nhis state was a critical one she had not had the slightest suspicion.\nShe had got accustomed to his invalid ways; and hearing nothing to\nthe contrary, had taken it for granted that he was surely if slowly\nprogressing towards convalescence; telling herself that at the very\nworst he would go on in the same way for years.\n\nI think that Mrs Tipper--and even he himself--was deceived in the same\nway.\n\nI quietly tended Lilian through the first agony of her grief; but did\nnot let it subside into despair, making an appeal (which I felt to be\nmost effectual with one of her nature) to her unselfishness.\n\nHer father needed her love more than he had ever yet needed it, and\ntears and grief must be kept back so long as it was in her power to\ncomfort and sustain him. She responded at once. Choking back her sobs,\nand bathing her face to efface as much as possible the outward signs of\nher misery, she presently whispered that I might trust her now. 'Only\nyou must promise not to leave me--promise to keep near me, Mary?'\n\n'I will, Lilian; if there be no objection made to my doing so.'\n\nAt first it seemed as if no objection would be made. When Lilian was\nushered, awestruck and silent, into the darkened room, where the spirit\nwas already struggling to free itself from the weakened body, I saw the\ndying man's eyes turn upon us with a faint gleam of satisfaction; and\nI was about to follow her to his bedside, the nurse's warning looks\ntelling me that my assistance would soon be required, when the latter\nbeckoned me towards her, where she stood just outside the door.\n\n'Something on his mind, Miss; can't die till it is told,' whispered the\nwoman, as she made a gesture for me to close the door and leave the\nfather and child together alone.\n\nI was not a little startled; but stood hesitating on the threshold\nof the room a moment, not quite liking to leave Lilian alone,\ninexperienced as she was, with the dying man, yet still more averse to\nbe present at any family revelations, when, in reply, I suppose, to\nsome whispered question from him, Lilian said: 'Only the nurse and Miss\nHaddon, dear papa.'\n\n'You have taken to her--and she likes you, I think--she may be able to\nhelp you;' slowly and brokenly said Mr Farrar. 'Yes; send the other\naway. Only Miss Haddon and yourself.'\n\nI hesitated no longer. Telling the nurse to remain in the adjoining\nroom, I re-entered, and carefully closing the door, advanced towards\nLilian, on her knees by the bed-side, with her face hidden upon\nthe hand she held. I put my arm round her, and said with quiet\ndistinctness, for I saw that there was no time to be lost in words: 'I\nlove Lilian, Mr Farrar; and if she needs a friend, you may trust me.'\n\nHis fast glazing eyes rested upon me for a moment, as he murmured\n'Haddon of Haddon;' and then his gaze and his thoughts wandered away\nagain.\n\n'Is there anything you wish to have done, Mr Farrar?' I presently\nasked, fancying that he was trying to concentrate his mind upon\nsomething, and found an increasing difficulty in so doing.\n\n'Send for--Markham--bring the draft'----\n\n'Of your will?' I asked, rapidly connecting the name, which I knew to\nbe that of his lawyer, with the word 'draft,' and hoping that I thus\nfollowed out his meaning.\n\n'Yes--will--sign--Haddon of Haddon.' Even at that moment, I saw he\nattributed my power of catching his meaning to be a consequence of my\nbeing a Haddon of Haddon.\n\n'I will send at once, Mr Farrar.' I went to the door, told the nurse to\nbring the butler to me without a moment's delay, and waited there until\nhe came.\n\n'Is my poor master?'----\n\n'Do not speak, except to answer a question please, Saunders; but listen\ncarefully. Do you know the address of Mr Farrar's solicitor, both of\nhis private residence and the office?'\n\n'Yes, Miss.'\n\n'If you cannot ride, send a groom to the railway station without a\nmoment's delay; and telegraph to Mr Markham, both at his residence and\nthe office, these words: \"Mr Farrar is dying; come at once, and bring\nthe draft of the will.\" Please repeat it.'\n\nHe repeated the words; and then with an answering nod to my one word,\n'Immediately,' went off to do my bidding.\n\nI turned into the room again, closing the door. I had obeyed Mr Farrar\npromptly and literally, as at such a crisis it seemed best to do; but\nI could not see the importance of the proceeding. Lilian was his only\nchild, and would not suffer any pecuniary loss even if there were no\nwill. But one thing struck me, even at that moment: it was singular\nthat a business man like Mr Farrar should have delayed making his will\nuntil now. And why did he appear so troubled and restless? Why did\nhe look anywhere but into his child's eyes, raised so tenderly and\nlovingly to his?\n\n'Dear papa, speak to me--look at me!' she pleaded.\n\n'Eighty thousand, and business worth'----\n\n'O papa, darling; one little word to your child. I'm Lilian, papa.'\n\n'Keys--cabinet--Haddon of Haddon.'\n\nI followed the direction of his eyes; went softly and quickly to the\ndressing-table, brought from it several bunches of keys, ranged them\nseparately on the counterpane before him, and pointed to each, watching\nhis eyes for the answer.\n\n'This! And now which key?' I held each key up, and slowly passed it\nover the ring until his eyes told me that I had come upon the right\none; then again following the direction of his eyes, I crossed over\nto a cabinet which stood between the windows opposite his bed, and\nunlocked it. It opened with doors, upon a nest of drawers; and I\npointed to each, going slowly down one side and up the other until\nI had found the right one. It contained a small packet sealed and\naddressed, and a bundle of letters. I held up the letters first.\n\n'Burn.'\n\n'I will burn them, Mr Farrar.'\n\n'Burn!'\n\nI saw that it must be done at once; put them into the fender, struck a\nmatch, and set light to them, stirring them well about until they were\nonly tinder. For a suspicion had crossed my mind that it was quite\npossible there might be something connected with Mr Farrar's past life,\nthe evidence of which it was desirable to keep from his daughter's\nknowledge. At anyrate, he had a right to have his letters destroyed if\nhe so wished it, and his mind was manifestly relieved by its being done.\n\n'Parcel!'\n\nI brought the little packet to his bed-side. 'Do you wish anything to\nbe done with this, Mr Farrar?'\n\nHe looked at it a moment, and then turned his eyes upon his child.\n'Forgive--be good to her.'\n\n'To whom, dear papa?' murmured Lilian.\n\n'Sister.'\n\n'Auntie? Dear papa, do not you know that I love her?' she sobbed out.\n\n'Haddon of Haddon--send it.'\n\n'Send this packet to the person to whom it is addressed, Mr Farrar?' I\nasked, beginning to find a clue to the mystery, as I solemnly added:\n'I will.' So far, I had interpreted his meaning; but I presently saw\nthat was not sufficient. The eyes wandering from Lilian to the packet,\nand from the packet to me, told that there was still something to be\ndone before his mind would be set at rest. I looked at the two or three\nlines in his own hand-writing on the packet, and after a moment's\nhesitation, said: 'This is addressed to your daughter, Marian; and I\nthink you wish Lilian to promise to be good to her sister, Mr Farrar?'\nI saw I had hit upon his meaning once more.\n\n'Yes; good to her.'\n\n'Sister!' ejaculated Lilian. 'Have I a sister, dear papa--living?'\n\nHe lay unconscious a few moments, murmuring something about 'mountains\nand peat-smoke and a cottage home,' dwelling apparently upon some\nfamiliar scenes of the past. But the thought presently grew as\nwandering and disjointed as the words, and the light was gradually\nfading out of the eyes. I now watched him with grave anxiety, all my\nfears aroused lest there should be some very serious necessity for\nmaking a will after all.\n\nIt was a momentary relief when the door opened and the doctor entered\nthe room. But my hopes very quickly faded when I saw him stand\ninactive, looking gravely down at his patient's face, and then, with a\npitiful look at Lilian's bowed head, and expressive glance at me, turn\nquietly away. I followed him out of the room.\n\n'Will he rally again, do you think, Dr Wheeler, sufficiently to be able\nto sign a will?'\n\nHe stopped in the act of putting on his gloves, turning his eyes upon\nme in some surprise.\n\n'A will! Surely a man of business habits like Mr Farrar has done that\nlong ago. He has been quite sufficiently warned to be aware of his\ndanger, Miss Haddon. But'--after a pause--'it cannot be of very vital\nimportance. There is but one child, and of course she takes all; though\nI should have given him credit for tying it securely up to her, in the\nevent of her falling into bad hands.'\n\n'The lawyer has his instructions, I believe, Dr Wheeler, and we have\ntelegraphed for him to come at once. Meantime, can anything be done? Is\nthere no stimulant, no?'----\n\n'My dear lady, Mr Farrar is dead already, so far as the capability of\ntransacting business is concerned. It is the insensibility preceding\ndeath; and only a question of an hour or so--it may be only of\nminutes.'\n\nSick at heart, I silently bowed, and turned back into the room again,\nwaiting in solemn stillness until Lilian should need me. The nurse\nmoved softly in and out the room, and I knew why she drew up the blinds\nto let the last rays of sunlight stream in. The glorious sunset faded\ninto twilight, twilight deepened into night, and then, with a long\nquivering sigh, the spirit stole forth to that other life.\n\nThe moment all was over there were innumerable demands upon my\nenergies. Taking my dear Lilian to her aunt's room, I left them\ntogether, after giving a private hint to each that it was necessary to\nstifle her grief as much as possible for the sake of the other. Then I\nwent downstairs again, to give the awestruck and confused servants the\nnecessary orders, which in their first grief neither Lilian nor her\naunt was capable of giving. They had deputed me to see that all was\nrightly done.\n\nThe demands upon me increased so rapidly, that I felt quite relieved\nwhen a servant came to tell me that the lawyer had arrived. I went at\nonce to the library, too much absorbed in the one thought to remember\nthat I was meeting a stranger.\n\n'Too late, I am sorry to find, madam!' said a short, stout,\nbrisk-looking, little man, making me a low bow as I entered. He\nevidently found it somewhat difficult to get the right expression into\nhis jovial face, as he went on to explain that he had been dining out\nwhen the telegram, sent on by his wife, reached him. 'I lost not a\nmoment; and have managed to get from Russell Square in an hour and a\nhalf.' Then, after a keen glance at me, which took in my left hand, he\nadded: 'A relative of my late client's, I presume?'\n\n'No; my name is Haddon. I have been living here as companion to his\ndaughter, Mr Markham, and have always been treated as a friend of the\nfamily.' I said the last words in the hope of inducing him to trust me\nsufficiently to say anything he might have to say, forgetting that I\nwas talking to a lawyer.\n\n'Very fortunate for Miss Farrar; friends are needed at such times\nas this;' eyeing me sharply as he went on to add a few conventional\nwords respecting his client's death, and the shock its suddenness must\nhave given his friends; and so affording me an opportunity for the\nindulgence of a little sentiment.\n\nBut I neither felt any, nor desired him to think that I did, upon the\nscore of my attachment to Mr Farrar; so quietly replied: 'Death is\nalways solemn, Mr Markham; but I know too little of Mr Farrar to mourn\nhim as a friend. His daughter, I love.'\n\nHe nodded pleasantly; satisfied, I think, so far; then, after a moment\nor two, tried another leading question.\n\n'You were probably present with her at the last?'\n\n'Yes.'\n\n'Conscious?'\n\n'Yes; until the last hour.'\n\n'And you are aware I was summoned, I presume?'\n\n'I sent for you, Mr Markham.' He waited; and seeing he was still\ncautious, I went on: 'It was Mr Farrar's wish you should be sent for.\nHe appeared extremely anxious to sign the will; but it was too late.'\n\n'Ah, yes; too late! Very sad, very sad;' watching me furtively, as he\ncarefully measured the length and breadth of one of his gloves. 'And no\nlast instructions, I suppose; no little confidences or revelations, or\nanything of that kind?'\n\nI quite understood him; and after a few moments' reflection, replied:\n'Yes; there was a revelation, Mr Markham; a very startling one; and as\nyou have prepared the will, you doubtlessly know to what I allude?'\n\nI waited a few moments for a reply; but waited in vain. He seemed lost\nin contemplation of his gloves again. This jovial-looking little man\nwas not quite so effusive as he looked. I tried once more.\n\n'It is unfortunate the will was not signed, since Mr Farrar so much\ndesired it.'\n\n'Certainly; much to be regretted--very much.'\n\nI saw that the approach was to be made from my side; and as it had to\nbe done sooner or later, I said: 'But I do not see that its not being\nsigned can make any difference to Miss Farrar--from a pecuniary point\nof view.'\n\n'No; none whatever: Miss Farrar will not be a loser.'\n\n'Will her sister?'\n\n'Ah! now we shall understand each other--now you have come to the\npoint, my dear lady,' he replied, with brisk cheerfulness, placing a\nchair for me, and seating himself before me with a confidential air; a\nhand upon each of his knees. 'You see it was necessary to bring you to\nthat; though you have fenced very well--very neatly indeed--for a lady.\nI could not desire a better witness in a case, I assure you--on my own\nside.'\n\nI was not quite so charmed with the compliment as he intended me to\nbe; not taking very kindly to the idea of being 'brought to it,' as he\ntermed it. So I replied with an air which I flattered myself was as\ncareless as his own: 'I thought it as well to tell you that much, Mr\nMarkham.'\n\n'Quite as well, my dear young lady; saving of time, you know. I may\nnow tell you that the person to whom you allude will be a considerable\nloser by the will I have brought down with me not being signed.'\n\n'Is there no previous will, Mr Markham?'\n\n'There have been several others. But Mr Farrar was a very careful man,\nand always destroyed an old will when he made a fresh one. He could\nnever quite satisfy himself as to the exact provision to be made for\nthe--person you have named, and was continually altering his mind,\nmaking the sum now greater now smaller.'\n\n'Fortunately, Miss Farrar may be trusted to do all that is right.'\n\n'No doubt a very sweet and good young lady; brought up with relations\non the mother's side, I understand. I have had the pleasure of meeting\nher two or three times, and was much struck by her amiability.'\n\n'It is something stronger and better than amiability, Mr Markham,' I\nreturned. Someway that word always offended me with reference to Lilian.\n\n'I am glad to hear it; though amiability has its attractions--_for\nme_.' After a few moments' contemplative glance at me, he added:\n'It will be some comfort to her, by and by, perhaps to know that\nthe--other is at least three or four years older than herself, and that\nthe mother died whilst her child was young.'\n\nI understood what he meant; 'the other,' as he termed her--he did not\nonce allude to her by name--had been born before Mr Farrar's marriage\nto Lilian's mother.\n\n'Thank you for telling me that, Mr Markham; it will be a comfort to\nLilian.'\n\nHe nodded and smiled, as though to say I deserved that little\nencouragement for acquitting myself so well; than became grave and\nbusinesslike again, as befitted the occasion. Rising from his seat\nand taking the little black bag which he had brought with him, from\nthe table, he said: 'You will require no aid from me until after the\nfuneral, when Miss Farrar will have to go through a little legal\nformality. There will be no complications; everything will be Miss\nFarrar's, absolutely. A trifle _too_ absolutely, I should be inclined\nto say, if she were an ordinary young lady, or likely to fall into bad\nhands--a money-hunting husband's, for instance.'\n\n'You know, of course, that Miss Farrar is engaged to be married to Mr\nTrafford, Mr Markham?'\n\n'One of the Warwickshire Traffords?' he said with a smile, which\nwas instantly suppressed. 'Yes; I have heard something of the kind,\ncertainly.'\n\nHe certainly had; since, as I afterwards ascertained, the will had been\nso made as to very securely protect Lilian's property in the event of\nsuch marriage. Then, in reply to a question of mine, he advised me to\nsend to one of the best undertakers (giving me the names and addresses\nof two or three, but cautiously abstaining from recommending one more\nthan another), and make him responsible for everything being conducted\nin a fit and proper manner. 'That is, I think, the wisest course to\npursue; though you are free to carry out Miss Farrar's wishes in any\nway.'\n\n'Thank you.'\n\n'Do not name it. I hope to have the pleasure of meeting you again upon\na less solemn occasion, Miss Haddon.' Then, looking at his watch, he\nfound that he would have just time to catch the ten o'clock up-train;\nand declining my offer of refreshments, he bade me good-night, and\nhurried out to the fly which he had kept waiting for him.\n\n\n\n\nOUR HINDU FELLOW-SUBJECTS AND OURSELVES.\n\n\nIt is a remarkable fact, that although upwards of a century has\nelapsed since the foundation of our rule in India was first laid,\nthe people of that country and ourselves are as far apart from each\nother, in all those feelings and sympathies which are calculated to\nunite different peoples together, as it is possible for us to be. Our\nreligious views and social habits are so diametrically opposed, that\nthe strongest prejudices are in active operation to keep us in a state\nof chronic alienation. The difficulty in the matter rests in a great\nmeasure with the Hindu. Hinduism will not admit us within the pale\nof free intercourse with its votaries, and its restrictions prevent\nthem from mingling freely with others of another faith. For a Hindu\nto live under the same roof or to take a meal at the same table with\nus, would entail upon him expulsion from caste, and religious and\nsocial disabilities of the most serious character. In short, the only\nconnection in which we can have any intimacy is that of business in the\nway of trade, or of duty as officially connected with the state.\n\nIt will easily be seen that under such circumstances, personal\nfriendship of a disinterested nature can hardly exist between the\nHindus and ourselves. It would be well indeed if we were drawn\ntowards each other by feelings of partiality; but even this degree of\nattachment cannot be said to exist, except in very rare instances. In\na word, open indifference, if not latent antipathy, is the feeling by\nwhich our intercourse with each other is characterised.\n\nThis state of matters is much to be regretted, more especially if our\nconnection is to be perpetuated; and the good men and true of both\nraces, of whom there are not a few, would rejoice to see the causes\nwhich give rise to these untoward feelings removed, the barriers which\nseparate us broken down, and a kindlier feeling established between us;\nbut the more the subject is thought over, the greater the difficulties\nseem in the way of this desirable end; and the conclusion forces itself\nupon us, that we must await the course of events, and see what time\nwill unfold.\n\nMeanwhile, it may be useful and interesting to consider somewhat\nparticularly the manner in which our differences have operated to keep\nus for so many years in a state of social estrangement from each other.\n\nIt may be imagined that the relative positions which we hold to each\nother of rulers and subjects, is of itself sufficient to account for\nthe prejudice against us of the Hindu people; but this view is not\nborne out by facts. The Hindus have for centuries been a subjugated\npeople, a trodden-down race. The feeling of patriotism which was\nexhibited in the early period of their history has long since died out,\nand it seems of little consequence to them who rules, provided they are\nleft undisturbed in the free exercise of their religious practices and\nsocial habits. The Mohammedan conquerors who preceded us, stood in the\nsame relative position to them as we do, and it is well known that they\nwere not disliked by the Hindu people, certainly not in the same degree\nthat we are. Let us inquire into the reasons of the difference as\nregards the Mohammedans and ourselves, for in so doing we may discover\nwhat it is in which we have rendered ourselves distasteful.\n\nFirst, the Mohammedans as orientalists, had no difficulty in\naccommodating themselves to a certain extent to the outward customs and\nhabits of the Hindu people. The oriental garb, the custom of taking off\nthe shoes on entering a dwelling, the daily ablution at the village\nwell or stream, were habits in common; of no great moment in themselves\ncertainly; still they had a tendency to soften down prejudices and draw\nthe victors and vanquished towards each other. Moreover, after the\nfirst burst of conquest was over, and the conquerors began to settle\ndown among the Hindus, the readiness with which a few Mohammedans,\nthrown entirely among them in the country towns and villages, would\nhumour their religious prejudices, by carefully avoiding contact with\nimpure out-castes, and by abstaining from the use of such articles of\nfood as were repugnant to them, had a conciliatory tendency, which none\nbut those who are conversant with Hindu feeling can fully appreciate.\n\nAgain, the avowedly religious character of the Mohammedans had a\nfavourable effect upon the minds of the Hindus, whose every action is\nsupposed to be regulated by their sacred Shastras. In every village\na Mohammedan place of worship, a _durga_, was erected--rude and\ninsignificant in many places, it is true; but in towns and cities, far\nsurpassing in splendour the magnificent temples of the Hindus; and to\nwitness the devout Mohammedans, under the guidance of their priests,\nor M\u00f9lan\u00e0s, worshipping in their durgas, was calculated to affect the\nminds of any religiously disposed people; how much more that of the\nsuperstitious Hindu.\n\nMost if not all the conciliatory traits manifested by the Mohammedans\nhave been wanting in us. Many, as a Christian people, we could not\nindeed affect. But besides the difference in dress, and apparent\ndiscourtesy in uncovering our heads and retaining our shoes on entering\na dwelling, and our contempt of external purity, as shewn in not\navoiding contact with out-castes, there have been causes much more\npotent which operated to repel the people, Mohammedans as well as\nHindus, from us.\n\nThere is no doubt that during the early period of our Indian career\nour style of living and social habits had a great effect in giving the\nHindus the most unfavourable impressions regarding us. The cow is one\nof their principal objects of worship, and therefore to kill it and\npartake of its flesh is to the Hindu an offence against all laws human\nand divine, so grievous as to stamp the offender as an utterly vile and\nloathsome monster. To partake of intoxicating beverages was unknown\namong the better classes of Hindus; it was indeed a habit indulged in,\nbut seldom to excess, and by the impure out-caste only; and yet they\nsaw with horror that we felt no compunction in rendering ourselves,\naccording to their ideas of this matter, as degraded as the out-caste\nhimself.\n\nAgain, our women eating at the same table with their husbands was\nlooked upon by them as a gross violation of female modesty; but when\nthey saw that they moved unrestrainedly in society, and not only freely\nconversed with the other sex, but actually danced with them in public;\nthe moral feelings of Hindus and Mohammedans alike were so outraged,\nthat they looked upon us as thoroughly demoralised. We were known in\nthe western presidency by the term _jangla_, wild men, from _jangal_,\na forest; and it was suspected, if not believed by the common people,\nthat we had tails. The jangla was the bogey of the village children;\nand many a pious Brahman would turn away his face on meeting a European\nin the streets, rather than pollute his vision by looking at him.\n\nThe reader will from all this see at a glance how hateful we must have\nseemed to the people of India in the days referred to; still these\nunfriendly feelings might in time have softened down, and our social\nhabits been viewed with some forbearance; for there is no doubt that\nas we assumed the reins of power in one province after another, it\ndawned upon the natives, that these, to them degrading customs, were\nnot inconsistent with high intellectual power, deep mental culture, and\nfeelings of active philanthropy. Our administrative abilities, as shewn\nin our judicial and revenue systems, and the numerous measures adopted\nfor the security of life and property and the general improvement of\nthe country, were not lost sight of by the intelligent portion of the\npeople; and as the different phases of our anomalous character passed\nunder review before them, amazement if not admiration, and awe if not\nreverence, in turn filled their minds regarding us. Our officials were\nnot unfrequently spoken of as incarnations of the benign Vishnu; and\nbut for an overbearing disposition towards them, which began to develop\nitself in us at this stage, and which has continued with more or less\nintensity ever since, the natives might in time have ceased to look\nupon us, as they were wont, as one of the evil manifestations of the\nKali Yuga, or age of vice. This overbearing spirit, arising no doubt\nfrom an overweening idea we have entertained of our great superiority\nas a people compared to them, may be attributed to two causes. First,\nalthough India was not conquered by us in a day, still, considering\nthat with scarcely an exception we triumphed in every contest with\ncomparatively insignificant forces, and that our ascendency was\nestablished without any great difficulty, we were led from the first\nto look upon the people as a totally effete cowardly race, utterly\ndestitute of every quality indicative of manly prowess. Again, our\nsubsequent experience has shewn us that a want of truthfulness in the\ncommonest concerns of everyday life is the besetting vice of the Hindu\npeople. It would seem indeed, that so far from honesty being the best\npolicy with them, lying and chicanery are considered the surest means\nto success in all dealings between man and man. In short, we have\nfound them wanting in the two very traits, which of all others we hold\nin the highest esteem; and we have made no secret of our feelings on\nthe matter. Moreover, there is no denying the fact that the colour of\nthe natives has had the effect of influencing us to some extent in\nour unseemly bearing towards them. We are apt to look upon the dark\nskin, unconsciously perhaps, as a mark of inferiority; and the idea of\nadmitting the owner of it to intercourse on terms of equality is more\nthan our self-complacency will permit.\n\nIt must be remarked that the natives submitted tamely for years to\nour overbearing demeanour; and that it is only since they have made\nsome progress in education, and have been admitted to posts of trust\nand responsibility under government, that they have manifested any\nimpatience at it; and that particularly in the presidency towns and\nother places where the European community is large. In the rural\ndistricts even at the present time, the natives are slow to resent\nany rudeness on the part of European travellers who may visit their\nvillages. It will be easily seen from this that the mutual dislike\nwhich exists between the natives and ourselves is much more apparent\nin the higher grades of society, and particularly among government\nofficials, than among the lower uneducated classes. A European of\nposition will but too frequently treat a native of no social standing\nwith indifference if not with unkindness; but the moment a native who\nassumes to be on a par with him approaches, a feeling of resentment and\nsuspicion as to his motives instinctively creeps over him; and although\nthe native may behave most circumspectly during the interview, no\nsooner has he taken his departure than some remark is likely to be made\nrelative to the growing arrogance of the '<DW65>s.' On the other hand,\nsome equally uncalled-for and discourteous expression will be made by\nthe native as to the self-importance displayed by the foreigner. There\nis, in short, however pleasing outward appearances may often seem, an\nunder-current of mutual aversion, which it will take years to soften\ndown, if indeed such a desirable event be possible.\n\nA native gentleman of considerable education told the writer some time\nago that there was a great difference in the conduct of Europeans\ntowards his countrymen to the eastward of Suez, as compared with the\nway they treated them to the west of that place. Here in England, he\nsaid, we are treated with kindness and courtesy; but on the other side\nof Suez, with some exceptions, we are looked upon as fair game for\nrudeness if not insult. This statement was verified by what appeared\nin a Bombay paper about two years since, to the effect that a military\nofficer insisted upon a native gentleman, a member of the uncovenanted\ncivil service, being removed from a first-class railway carriage,\nsimply because he wanted it to himself and a party of ladies who were\ntravelling with him. Need it be added that such an incident could\nscarcely occur in England.\n\nIt has already been noticed, that if left to the undisturbed exercise\nof their religious rites and social customs, the Hindus care little\nwho governs them. With reference to this matter it may here be said,\nthat in so far as overt acts are concerned, they have no more reason\nto complain of us than they had of their old rulers the Mohammedans;\nbut we have set an agency at work which will prove infinitely more\npotent in undermining both their religious and social habits than even\nthe most violent persecution. The education imparted in the government\nschools and colleges, as well as in the seminaries of the missionaries,\nis certain in time to sweep away every vestige of Hinduism; and this\neventuality, already foreseen by the priests and others interested in\nthe maintenance of popular superstition, is an eyesore which influences\nthem in no small degree in prejudicing the people in the rural\ndistricts against us. They tell them that by a system of underhand\nduplicity we managed at first to sow the seeds of discord amongst them\nand possess ourselves of their country; and that now, under pretence of\nenlightening them, we are endeavouring to reduce them all to the same\ndead level of impure out-castes, similar to what we are ourselves.\n\nThe influence of the priests, however, has not had the effect of\nkeeping students from the government and missionary schools; but\nalthough the education received there weans them from a belief in\nHinduism, still it neither induces them, for the present at least,\nto give up the social caste system, nor makes them more tolerant of\nourselves. The rabid abuse heaped upon us at every opportunity by the\nvernacular press, which is conducted by these men, shews that it is not\nmere passive dislike but active hostility by which they are actuated\ntowards us. It is not, however, the press alone; the theatrical\nrepresentations conducted under their patronage are also made use of\nas vehicles whereby our government, our social habits, and even our\nreligion are occasionally caricatured, and in turns denounced in terms\nof unmistakable hate.\n\nThe fact must not be lost sight of, that the knowledge we are imparting\nto the natives has not only the effect of enlightening them on\nreligious and social questions, but also leads them into a region of\nthought which they have not indulged in for centuries. Need it be said\nthat the perusal of those histories we lay open to them, which narrate\nthe successful struggles made by nations of ancient and modern times\nto throw off the yoke of foreigners, in whatever form it may have\nexisted, has the effect of creating aspirations in the minds of many\nfor a revival of that national life which has so long lain dormant? The\nfar-seeing and reflecting few who indulge in these patriotic breathings\nknow full well that they cannot be realised for generations, if ever;\nand that it is therefore folly to rave against things as they are,\nand thus render themselves obnoxious to us; nevertheless, the idea of\nmaking common cause with us is foreign to their minds; and the tendency\nof their influence amongst their less thoughtful countrymen is to\ndirect their minds to an eventuality, which sooner or later will free\ntheir country from the presence of the foreigner.\n\nTo conclude: it is not by any means gratifying to be forced to\nacknowledge that all hopes of immediate fraternisation between the\nnatives of India and ourselves are futile; that the antagonism of\nrace and colour, and the dissimilarity in our respective religions\nand social habits, are such insuperable obstacles to so desirable an\nevent, that we shall for years be found moving in two separate grooves,\ndestitute of any of those mutual feelings and sympathies which tend to\nunite different peoples, and contribute to the general happiness and\nwell-being of all.\n\n\n\n\nAFTER-DINNER ANECDOTES.\n\n\nIt would be an interesting occupation for an otherwise idle man to\ntrace the origin of some of our best after-dinner anecdotes. How often\nit happens that we hear a story told which in its main features we\nrecognise as an old acquaintance, but with so much alteration in its\ndetails that we can hardly believe it to be the same.\n\n'Ah!' we say, with a knowing look, 'I have heard that story before; but\nI always thought it referred to Lord So-and-so, or the Duke of ----;'\nas the case may be.\n\n'O no,' replies the story-teller, rather injured that we should doubt\nhis veracity. 'I assure you I heard it from Mr So-and-so, who knew all\nabout it. Indeed he is first cousin to the nephew of Lord ----; and so\nI can't be wrong.'\n\n'Indeed,' we reply; and the subject drops. But all the same we hold to\nour previous opinion, and always tell the story our own way.\n\nAnd after all, it is not so much a want of truthfulness which is\nat the bottom of these variations of the same tale, as weakness of\nmemory, or absence of the power of clearly arranging in our minds the\ndifferent localities and personages which belong to the anecdotes told.\nThere is that story of the parrot, for instance, who at a very dull\ndinner-party where conversation lagged terribly, was heard to observe\nin a solemn voice, during one of the 'awful pauses' which occurred so\nfrequently, 'Sorry I spoke!' Only a few days after that anecdote was\nrelated to us, we heard that 'there was once a parrot who was present\nat family prayers, and didn't conduct himself with that reverence\nwhich appertains to such times, but would make remarks more or less\nintelligible, to the world at large. At last the master of the house\nlost all patience, and signed to one of the tittering domestics to\nremove Polly from the scene. As he was being carried out of the door\nthe bird was heard to remark in a gruff voice, \"Sorry I spoke!\" to the\nutter discomfiture of all present.' Of course we laughed heartily,\nand apparently enjoyed the joke; but all the same we felt there was\nsomething wrong somewhere, and that _one_ of these stories must owe\nsomething to the invention of the narrator.\n\nIn fact, try as hard as we may, it is almost impossible to retail a\npiece of information exactly as we received it. Our younger readers\n(and it would not perhaps be _infra dig._ for some elder ones) may test\nthis for themselves by playing at the Russian game of Truth. One of the\nparty composes a short story, which is written for future reference.\nHe then communicates it in a whisper to another, who similarly imparts\nit confidentially to a third, and so on. The last member of the party\nthen states what was confided to him as 'the truth;' and then the last\nbut one; till it has reached the composer of the tale, who then reads\naloud what was actually the original of all these various statements.\nAnd no comment on the mischief and untruthfulness of gossip could be\nmore pungent than the utter discrepancy which always exists between the\ndifferent accounts. Sometimes the story is so altered in transmission\nfrom one to the other, and that most unintentionally, that we can\nscarcely recognise the original in the case of the two or three who\nlast heard and repeated it.\n\nHow often has that tale been told of an Irishman, which originally came\nfrom America. As we first heard it, it stood thus: 'An American lawyer\ndefending a client who was accused of cracking a kettle which he had\nborrowed, stated that in his defence there would be three distinct\npoints: First, that the kettle was cracked when we borrowed it; second,\nthat it was whole when we returned it; and third, that we never had\nit at all.' Surely Paddy has 'bulls' enough of his own to answer for\nwithout having any Yankee importations to add to the list. Who but an\nIrishman, when he was told of a man who had had the smallpox _twice_,\nand died of it, would have anxiously inquired: 'Did he die the first\ntime or the second? And yet we have heard that story claimed for an\nEnglishman and an American; and we have no means of correcting our\ninformants.\n\nWe would strongly recommend to all 'diners-out' who attempt to enliven\nthe company by anecdotes, to be very cautious as to the place where and\nthe time when they tell their stories. Otherwise they may sometimes\nfind themselves placed in very awkward predicaments. How uncomfortable,\nfor example, the lady would have felt who sat next Buckland the\ngeologist at a dinner-party if she had been enlarging on the appearance\nof a poor stone-breaker by the road-side to whom she had given a\nshilling, when he--the poor stone-breaker in his dinner dress--so\nna\u00efvely produced, with a quiet smile, the very coin she had given him!\nBy the way, the same story is told of Professor Sedgwick.\n\nThen there is the warning example of the lady who had lately married\nan Oxford undergraduate. Before he took his wife to see his university\ntown, where circumstances obliged him to live a little longer, he told\nher with great difficulty, and after much hesitation, that he had\nbeen--er--er--'what they called \"plucked.\"[A] The hesitation which\nhe displayed was attributed to modesty; and to his astonishment, his\nwife, in her ignorance of the meaning of the term, joyfully exclaimed:\n'Yes; to be sure you were, you clever dear!' He was so completely\ntaken aback by this unexpected reply, that he couldn't put her right\nby an explanation, which would have been painful to both parties. He\ntherefore left matters as they were. They went to Oxford, and were\nasked to breakfast with a large party at the rooms of his college\ntutor. What was his horror when, in the middle of the repast, he heard\nhis wife (and his tutor, who was sitting opposite, evidently heard her\ntoo) say to her next neighbour: 'My husband gained such honours when he\nwas up here, you know. He was what you call \"plucked,\" you know!' We\ndraw a veil of oblivion over the poor young man's feelings, and hope\nthe lesson will not be lost upon our readers of both sexes.\n\nThere is an unconscious plagiarism about some people which leads them\nto appropriate to themselves anecdotes which they have heard of the\ndoings or sayings of other and greater people. This is especially the\ncase with the witty and wise sayings of such men as Sydney Smith and\nSheridan. How many have claimed to be the author of Sheridan's answer\nto the lady who accused him of having gone out when he had told her\nit rained heavily--'It cleared up enough for one, but not enough for\ntwo!' We often wonder whether people who do this kind of thing have\ninvented for themselves a special code of morality, such as that which\nprevails with regard to other people's umbrellas. Then, again, it must\nbe very unpleasant to hear your own _bon-mots_ attributed to others, or\nto have some inferior saying of the speaker fathered upon you. Shade\nof the immortal Shakspeare! how often has that honoured name been used\nto gain a hearing for some vapid but high-sounding moral axiom; while\nSolomon's Proverbs have been filched and reproduced, more or less\n'watered,' by writers of all ages. Who hasn't been told of Sir _Walter_\nScott the story which belongs of right to Sir William Scott (brother\nto Lord Eldon). When a celebrated physician said to him: 'You know,\nafter forty, a man is always either a fool or a physician;' Sir William\nreplied: 'Perhaps he may be both, doctor.' It has been well said that,\n'in conversation a wise man may be at a loss how to begin; but a fool\nnever knows how to stop.' Perhaps some of our readers are thinking this\nmay apply to an article in a magazine as well. And indeed one story\nsuggests another, till we might fill pages with anecdotes we have heard\nor read.\n\nBut before we stop we may perhaps be allowed to quote a most excellent\nrule for the guidance of all who tell stories which involve other\npeople. It is this: Before you begin, ask yourself--Is it true? Is it\nnecessary? Is it kind? Perhaps you have the gift (and it is a most\nvaluable one) of being able to tell a good story well; if so, remember\nwhat the mother of Philip, Duke of Orleans, said of her son: 'Though\ngood fairies have gifted my son at his birth with numerous qualities,\none envious member of the sisterhood has spitefully decreed that he\nshall never know how to use any of these gifts.' There is an old\nproverb (not Solomon's) which says, 'Never play with edge-tools.'\n\nFOOTNOTES:\n\n[A] Failed in his examination.\n\n\n\n\nWATCHMAKING BY MACHINERY.\n\n\nGeneva, as is pretty well known, has long been a busy centre of the\nSwiss watchmaking trade, the work executed being minute, elegant, and\ntrustworthy. The trade in watchmaking, however, is also a staple in\nthe cantons of Neuchatel and Berne. Tourists in Switzerland have often\noccasion to pass through secluded valleys, the inhabitants of which, a\npeaceful and industrious race, are almost all devoted to watchmaking.\nIt is a craft pursued in cottages, as a kind of domestic manufacture;\nand proficiency in fabricating the delicate mechanism has come down\nfrom father to son for several generations. We are reminded of the\nold-fashioned hand-loom system of weaving, which used to prevail in\nEnglish and Scotch villages in times passed away. Just as that old\nsystem of weaving vanished in the introduction of the power-loom\nmoved by machinery, so is watchmaking by hand about to pass away in\nSwitzerland, and some other quarters. Watchmaking by machinery on a\nlarge and comprehensive scale has been brought to a wonderful degree of\nperfection in various parts of the United States. Immense quantities of\nAmerican watches of a useful kind will soon, as is anticipated, greatly\ndamage the system of making by hand.\n\nIt would be idle to waste time in complaining of change of fashion\nin any kind of manufacture. Skill, capital, and machinery are sure\nto carry the day. In the progress of affairs the old must give place\nto the new. In such cases the best plan is not to maintain a useless\nstruggle, but at once to go over to the enemy--try to rival him on his\nown ground. Still one does not like to see an old and respectable trade\nruined. It is stated that at least forty thousand men and women have\nhitherto been engaged within a limited district in Switzerland upon the\nwatch-trade, all of whom must now alter their course of operations,\nquitting their rural resorts, and emigrating, or possibly becoming\nworkers in factories. We are sorry for the crisis, but in economics\nsuch is the rule of the game.\n\nA Swiss correspondent in the _Times_ (January 5) presents some\ninteresting particulars concerning the watch-trade, as it has till\nnow been carried on. The division of labour has been immense in\ncompleting a single watch. He says: 'A repeating watch goes through\nthe hands of no less than a hundred and thirty different workmen\nbefore being delivered to commerce. With such a division of labour,\nlong apprenticeship was rendered almost superfluous; so that any\nman, without being acquainted at all with the watch industry before,\nmight be able to learn a branch of it in the course of a few weeks.\nThis last circumstance, together with the relatively high wages\noffered, induced during the time of prosperity of the trade a good many\nagricultural labourers to leave their former occupation and dedicate\nthemselves to the watch industry. A superabundance of hands soon\nensued, accompanied by a falling of wages, and besides, the quality\nof the products manufactured became yearly worse and worse. Only some\nfew tradesmen continued to manufacture watches of higher qualities,\nwhile the majority of them supplied the markets with the lowest kind\nof products.' Here we have an explanation of at least one cause of the\ndecline of the Swiss watch-trade. An over-confidence in monopoly led to\ndeterioration of the article. The result was that Swiss watches fell\ninto discredit in the United States. The imports fell from a hundred\nand sixty-nine thousand watches in 1864 to seventy-five thousand\nwatches in 1876. There was ultimately a diminution in value to the\nextent of four hundred and twenty-three thousand pounds in four years.\nThe diminution did not alone arise from fair competition. All European\nwatches introduced to the United States are charged with a duty of\n25 per cent. Few manufacturers can stand so heavy a tax. At the same\ntime the poor Swiss had another rival to contend with. The manufacture\nof watches in the Swiss style had been introduced into Besan\u00e7on in\nFrance, whereby there was a still further limitation of exports from\nSwitzerland.\n\nThe question naturally arises, 'What is the difference in the number of\nwatches made by a workman by hand-labour and by a man superintending\nmachinery in the same space of time?' One authority specifies forty\nwatches a year for a workman by hand-labour, and one hundred and\nfifty watches a year by employing machinery. Mr John Fernie, a\ncivil-engineer, writing to the _Times_ (January 11), gives from\npersonal knowledge a considerably higher estimate of the comparative\npower of machinery. His observations are well worth quoting. 'Having,'\nhe says, 'visited the American Watch Manufactory at Waltham,\nMassachusetts, last June, on my way to the Exhibition at Philadelphia,\nI may be permitted to say a few words supplementary to the article in\nyour paper of Friday, on the watch-trade of Switzerland. During my\nvisit the works at Waltham were turning out three hundred and sixty-six\nwatches per day, and were employing somewhere about one thousand hands;\nand instead of their turning out one hundred and fifty watches per\nhand per annum, they were turning out at the ratio of one hundred and\nninety watches per person employed per annum. Even at the ratio quoted\nby your correspondent, four hundred and twenty-five watches per day by\none thousand three hundred and sixty hands would give one hundred and\nsixty-two watches per man per annum against the Swiss forty watches\nper man per annum. Of the thousand hands employed at Waltham, I found\nat least three-fourths of them were women, and it appeared to be a\nkind of work peculiarly fitted for them. The whole of the working\nparts of the watches, the wheels, pinions, axles, screws, and jewels\nwere made by women, by means of the most perfect automatic machinery\nI have ever seen.' Some of the watchmaking machines were exhibited\nat Philadelphia. 'But fine as those few machines were, they gave one\nno idea of the spacious works, the airy, comfortable workrooms, and\nthe perfect sets of machinery, executing in the most exquisite way the\nnumberless details involved in the manufacture of a watch, every one of\ntheir pieces duplicates of one another, save and except the holes in\nthe jewels. These as yet it had been found impossible to drill out to\nsuch a nicety; but by a series of delicate gauges they are paired and\nnumbered, and each watch is registered, so that in case of an accident,\nthat particular size may be rent out. When it is considered that many\nof the pieces can only be examined by a microscope, and that each piece\nis a duplicate of the thousands made except the jewels, the superiority\nover the hand-made watches is as apparent as that of the modern\nEnfield rifles over the old brown-bess. The basis of the duplicate\nsystem at Waltham lies in a complete series of gauges, ranging from a\nconsiderable size to the very smallest dimensions. Having been an early\nworker myself in the manufacture of duplicate machines and engines on\nthe basis of Sir Joseph Whitworth's scale of the inch divided into\nthousandths, I was desirous to see how they obtained their scale; and\nMr Webster, the able engineer of the Company, informed me he found the\nthousandth of an inch too coarse a dimension, and the ten-thousandth\nof an inch too fine; and he was led to divide the millimetre into a\nhundred parts, and found it a proper proportion for his work; and it is\nfrom a series of gauges founded on this system that the whole of the\nwatches are built up and the constant accuracy of all their dimensions\nmaintained. The men employed in the manufactory are principally\nengaged in keeping the machines in such order as to maintain their\nproper sizes, and in fitting the watches together and testing them\nfor time-keeping, and in the heavy work of making the cases. As yet\nthe Waltham Watch Company have not gone largely into the manufacture\nof the very highest class of watches, the great demand being for good\ntime-keepers at a reasonable price; but there is no doubt that while\nthey have developed a system which is driving the Swiss manufacturers\nout of the market, they have established a system which is equally\ngood for the better class of watches; and unless some English Company\nundertake the work in a similar way, they will ultimately drive us out\nof the market too. I need hardly say I have no interest in the Waltham\nCompany except the interest of a mechanical man in the most interesting\nmanufactory I ever visited.'\n\nIt is, we think, perfectly clear, from the above and other\ndescriptions, that hand-made watches, unless perhaps of a superior\nclass, requiring exquisite polish and finish by hand, must speedily\nbe driven out of the market by watches made on an unerring automatic\nprinciple, and on a wholesale plan by machinery. The only thing the\nSwiss can do is to adopt the same species of machinery into their\nmanufacture. Great capital and enterprise, however, will be needed\nto compete with the gigantic concerns springing up in America. In\nCalifornia, by the assistance of Chinese, watchmaking is making great\nstrides. Already, hundreds of thousands of watches are produced\nannually in the United States; and by establishing trade factories\nin Russia and other countries, the Americans to all appearance will\nsoon have the command of the traffic in watches all over the world.\nWe have not heard of any movement in England likely to counteract\nthis stupendous system of making and dealing in watches. The English\napparently rely on the deservedly high character of their finer class\nof watches, ranging in price from twenty to thirty guineas and upwards.\nAnd it may be a long time before the Americans are able to rival them\nin this department of the trade.\n\n\n\n\nAN OLD SHOWMAN'S RECOLLECTIONS.\n\n\nSome fifty years ago I was entered, by permission of my father, a\nmerchant tailor, as a pupil in the Duke of Cumberland's School. Among\nother branches taught, much attention was given to gymnastics, in which\nI soon surpassed all my schoolmates, and soon became such a proficient,\nthat our training-master in that branch was dispensed with, and I,\nthough but a boy, took his place. After completing our education, I,\nalong with a select few of my old schoolmates, used to meet at the back\nof Primrose Hill on the Saturday evenings of summer for the purpose\nof practising posturing and trying to imitate the gymnastic feats we\nhad seen performed at the fairs in London and the neighbourhood. On\nthese occasions we used frequently to be patronised by 'The Champion\nSword-swallower and Fire-king,' who was the proprietor of a penny show\nin Broad Street, Bloomsbury. The house was swept away when Bloomsbury\nStreet was formed. One day he produced a dagger with a blade of six\nor seven inches in length, and passed the blade down his throat; and\nafter removing it, challenged us to perform the feat. From my earliest\nboyhood I have always been somewhat of a dare-devil. I took the dagger,\nand soon found no difficulty in repeating what he had done.\n\nThat evening, on returning home, while my father was at supper, I went\ninto the workroom and began experimenting with the yard-stick. I found\nthat, in jugglers' phrase, I could swallow twenty-one inches of it. I\nthereupon determined to become the monarch of sword-swallowers; but\ndomestic circumstances put an end for a time to my ambition. Instead\nof displaying my talents on the boards of a booth, I was compelled by\nnecessity to tread the boards of a merchant-ship in the character of a\nsailor-boy. My early training at school was of great service to me, for\nmy nimbleness and activity soon raised me high in the captain's favour.\n\nMy first appearance in public as a showman was at an entertainment in\npresence of the officers of the garrison at Tobago. I made a decided\nhit, and received many presents from them. On returning to England, our\nship was wrecked off Margate, and with difficulty I managed to reach\nthe shore, on which I stood the possessor only of a pair of canvas\ntrousers with empty pockets, a belt, and a Guernsey shirt. Some kindly\nhearted persons presented me with an old straw-hat, a pretty decent\npair of boots, and a good dinner. On the strength of the dinner I set\nout for Brighton, where I expected to find employment with a relative.\nLuckily the weather was dry and warm. My meals consisted of pilfered\nturnips, and I found comfortable lodging in the fields. I reached\nBrighton only to find that my relative was dead. His successor in\nbusiness, who was a stranger to me, presented me with sixpence, and I\nthen set my face towards London.\n\nOne evening I reached _The Thorns_, a small road-side inn at Hawley,\nin a very exhausted state, for I had passed no turnip-fields since\nmorning. I made up my mind to spend my remaining two-pence on a pint\nof beer, and then to push on for a mile or two and look out for a\ncomfortable hedge-side. I entered the public room of _The Thorns_.\nIt was well filled with jovial farmers, as I afterwards ascertained\nthem to be. I ordered my beer; and when it was brought in, one of the\nfarmers insisted on paying, and ordered the servant to set a plate of\nbread and cheese before me. After my supper was devoured rather than\neaten, another pint of beer was ordered for me, and I was asked by my\nkind entertainers to oblige them if I could with a song. I readily\nconsented. I sang several songs, performed a few simple sleight-of-hand\ntricks, and finished up by swallowing half the length of the landlord's\nwalking-cane. I then took my leave; but before I reached the door I\nwas called back and asked where I intended putting up for the night,\nwhich was by this time far spent. I stammered out what answer I could;\nwhich not satisfying my worthy entertainers, they decided that at\ntheir expense I should remain where I was; should be supplied with\nbreakfast, dinner, and tea, and that my beer should not be stinted.\nOn the following evening they again returned, bringing with them a\nnumerous company of their friends, and I went a second time through my\nperformances. They wished me a hearty adieu and gave me a handful of\nsilver.\n\nOn arriving in London I looked about for a professional engagement,\nand was not long in procuring one at a notorious penny theatre, known\nas Hayden's Gaff, in Newton Street, off Holborn, a short street now\nfilled with handsome warehouses, but in those days a haunt of the vile\nand worthless of both sexes. My salary was paid nightly, and varied\nwith the number of the audience and the sober or inebriated state of\nthe lessee, manager, and money-taker, all which parts were played by\nTom Hayden. From this gaff I emigrated to the Rotunda, now no more,\nin Blackfriars Road. After appearing at several of the music-halls (O\nhow different from the flash and the flare of those of the present\nday), I got an appearance for a season at Vauxhall Gardens, which still\nretained some memories of their aristocratic youthhood.\n\nDuring all this time I was eking out my means of living by doing odd\njobs, for I was Jack-of-all trades. At last I recklessly plunged into\na showman's life by signing a year's engagement with a Mr Spicer,\nproprietor and manager of a caravan and a travelling theatre, or in\nother words a booth; and in his booth I played for the first time\nbefore the merry-making lads and lasses at Bartholomew Fair. At this\nfair I met the sword-swallower of those days, who was then astonishing\nthe audiences at 'Richardson's.' His sword was twenty-eight inches\nlong. The longest sword I have ever performed with is twenty-seven and\nfive-eighth inches. Keene used also to 'swallow' dinner knives and\nforks, but this was a mere sleight-of-hand trick.\n\nAbout this time I met with the renowned Ramo Same, the Indian juggler\nand magician. He was performing at the Coburg (now the Victoria\nTheatre) in the Borough. He too was a sword-swallower, and very\ncleverly did he combine deception with reality. He used to come on the\nstage carrying three naked swords, with which he went through a clever\nperformance. At the termination of this he stuck the swords upright\nin the stage, to shew the sharpness of their points, then pulling one\nof them with apparent effort out of the flooring of the stage, he\nslid it to a considerable depth down his throat. The swallowing part\nwas genuine; but the sword he used for that purpose was provided with\na false point, which was left in the wood on withdrawing the blade.\nI have never seen or heard of any sword-swallowing performed with a\nkeen-edged or sharp-pointed weapon. I may add that Keene had advantage\nover me, he being the taller by nine inches of the two; and that my\ncapacity of swallow is a marvel to the many leading medical gentlemen\nbefore whom, for scientific purposes, I have exhibited.\n\nMy engagement with Mr Spicer was rather peculiar. I was a single\nperformer divided into three, and sometimes more. I occasionally\nappeared in the tragedy or melodrama which was 'supported by the entire\nstrength of the company.' The entire strength numbered half-a-dozen\nincluding the driver of the caravan. The legitimate drama was every\nevening followed by a 'pleasing melange,' in which I made three\nappearances: first as 'Paul Blanchard the champion sword-swallower\nof the universe;' then after a brief interval, as 'Monsieur Le Bland\nthe celebrated French acrobat, from the Royal Theatres of Paris;' and\nthird and last, dressed in costume which may be described as a cross\nbetween the apparel of a Turkish Pacha and a stage Richard III., I\nmade my bow as 'Victor Delareux the Fire-king, who has performed with\ngreat applause before the crowned heads of Europe.' In this character\nI 'swallowed' handfuls of tow and vomited smoke and flames from my\nmouth. This trick is easy of performance, and though not dangerous is\nvery disagreeable to the performer. Then followed my feat of drinking\nboiling oil; which in its turn was followed by a draught of molten\nlead; and my performance was concluded by a dance, which I performed\nwith my bare feet on a red-hot bar of iron, which I also, in an\nincandescent state, passed along my bare arms and legs, and licked\nwith my tongue. The 'drinking' of the boiling oil, in which I used\nto dissolve before the audience a rod of metal, and the drinking of\nthe molten lead, were simple and harmless tricks; and have, as far as\nmy memory serves me, both been described and explained in the early\neditions of the _Boy's Own Book_, a copy of which was my constant\ncompanion thirty years ago and more. The iron bar performance\nnecessitates the employment of a mixture of chemicals, with which the\nparts exposed to the red-hot metal are anointed. If the bar is not up\nto red-heat, the feat is dangerous, as the chemicals will not act. The\ndancing on the bar must be gone through rapidly, the heel of the foot\nnever resting for a moment on the iron.\n\nMy acrobatic and fire-king feats I have long since discontinued, and\nfor many years my sword-swallowing has been subordinate to the less\nromantic business by which I gain my living. Still I am an old showman\nat heart, and look back with a melancholy pleasure to the days when I\nwandered about in gipsy fashion boothing and tenting.\n\n\n\n\nA RESTORED KEEPSAKE.\n\n\nLough Swilly, a harbour in the north of Ireland, is celebrated for the\nbeauty of its scenery; but though, when inside the lough, the anchorage\nis safe, the entrance to the harbour is a very difficult and dangerous\none, the coast being what is called iron-bound, and there being several\nreefs of rocks near the shore quite or partially covered by the sea.\n\nThe entrance to Lough Swilly is now protected by lighthouses, one on\nFannet Point, and another on Dunree Head; and the various reefs and\nshoals are marked by buoys in such a manner as to render the entrance\nto the harbour safe. Formerly it was not so.\n\nIn the year 1811 the _Saldanha_ frigate, Captain Packenham, was\nstationed in Lough Swilly as guardship; her usual anchorage was off\nthe little town or rather village of Buncrana; but from time to time\nshe weighed anchor, and cruised for a few days round the coast of the\nCounty Donegal. She had been stationed in Lough Swilly so long that\nsome of the officers' wives had come to reside at Buncrana; one or\ntwo of the officers and several of the men had even married in the\nneighbourhood, and all had made friends with the gentry and other\ninhabitants of the surrounding country.\n\nEarly on the morning of the 11th of November the _Saldanha_ left the\nmoorings off Buncrana for a three days' cruise round the coast; but\nthough the morning was fine and bright, about noon the weather became\ndark and lowering; and before the short November day closed, a fearful\ntempest raged over sea and land. That storm is still remembered as\nthe 'Saldanha Storm;' and some old folks can recount the sad story of\nthe anxious hearts that beat, and eyes that watched through blinding\nspray and rain for the lights of the returning ship. They were seen\nat last, not from Buncrana, but from the opposite shore, nearer the\nmouth of the lough, rapidly drifting into Ballymastocker Bay, along the\nstrand of which the Fannet people eagerly thronged. In this bay there\nis a dangerous reef of rocks, and on it the ship was seen to strike.\nIf a mighty cry went up, or if any effort was made to save the doomed\nvessel, no one can now tell. Of that gallant crew, one man only reached\nthe shore alive. Him, the wild people (half-wreckers) placed across a\nhorse, after giving him a draught of whisky; but whether it was done in\nignorance or in order to hasten his end, could not be proved; suffice\nit to say, that before he could be taken from the strand to one of the\ncountry cabins, he died. Many bodies came ashore from time to time,\nand were reverently buried in the old churchyard of Rathmullan, where\nthe grave and monument can still be seen. It is told that there were\nthree widows that night in one house in Buncrana, two ladies and their\nservant.\n\nYears passed by; and when the winter storms swept Lough Swilly, part\nof the sunken wreck of the _Saldanha_ would burst up, and the yellow\nsands of Ballymastocker Bay be strewn with fragments of her planks and\nvarious relics of the unhappy crew. The night of the 6-7th January 1839\nwas marked by another mighty hurricane, as bad, the old men said, as\nthe 'Saldanha Storm;' and in the morning, when the coast-guards made\ntheir rounds, the shores of the bay were strewn from end to end with\ntimbers and broken chests, the _last_ of the _Saldanha_.\n\nAmong other articles, one of the coast-guardsmen found and brought to\nhis officer's wife a little worked case, such as ladies used to call a\nthread-paper. It was beautifully made and stitched, and still contained\nsome skeins of sewing-silk and a few rusty needles. On the back were\nembroidered three initials. I remember the lady, Mrs H----, shewing it\nto me; and child as I was at the time, I grieved for the sad heart of\nthe embroideress whose loving fingers had set the stitches.\n\nMore than twenty years passed away; Mrs H----, who had returned to\nlive in Scotland, and had been left a widow, was spending a few days\nin the country-house of friends in one of the southern shires. Among\nthe guests was a young gentleman to whom she took a particular fancy.\nOne evening the conversation turned on Ireland and Irish scenery, and\nLough Swilly was mentioned. Her young friend seemed much interested,\nasked some questions about it, and presently said that his mother\nhad lost a brother many years before in Lough Swilly by the wreck of\nthe _Saldanha_. Mrs H---- related all she knew of the circumstances,\nand finally said she had in her workbox at the moment a relic of\nthe ship; and taking out the thread-paper, asked the uncle's name;\nwhich, strangely enough, was found to agree with the three initials\nembroidered on the little case. It further transpired that her young\nfriend's uncle had been a midshipman on board the ill-fated ship, and\nwas his mother's favourite brother.\n\nMrs H---- then put the little thread-case into his hand, and told him\nhow she had become possessed of it. 'And now,' she added, 'take that\nhome to your mother; shew it to her, and ask her if she ever saw it\nbefore. Should she recognise it, she is very welcome to keep it. If it\ndid not belong to her brother, let me have it again.' The gentleman\nleft next morning for his home; and a few days afterwards Mrs H---- had\na letter from him, saying that his mother had at once recognised it as\nher own work, given to her darling brother when he last had left his\nhome. Surely this relic of one so loved and lost, thus restored after\nmore than fifty years, must have been as precious as though it had been\nsome costly jewel.\n\n\n\n\nTHE REINTERMENT OF JOHN HUNTER.\n\n[From _Poems and Ballads_, by James R. Fergusson, son of Sir William\nFergusson, Bart.]\n\n\nTo Frank Buckland, energetic protector of fish in particular, and\nof all dumb-animal creation, editor of _Land and Water_, son of an\neminent geologist a former Dean of Westminster, belongs the merit\nof having suggested that the remains of John Hunter should be\ndeposited in Westminster Abbey. An order having been issued that all\ncoffins should be removed from the vaults beneath the Church of St\nMartin's-in-the-Fields, Mr Buckland thought of his great professional\nbrother, long dead, and lying there with no 'storied urn or animated\nbust' to mark the spot; and in a short time his generous zeal carried\nto a successful issue all proceedings connected with the 'Reinterment\nof John Hunter.' The place selected is close below a stone that has\nthe words 'O rare Ben Jonson!' and I may mention that, standing by the\nopen grave, I held in my hand the skull that once contained the witty,\nlearned brain of him who wrote the undying line about Shakspeare:\n\n        He was not for an age, but for all time.\n\n    Within the walls beneath whose shade\n    The noblest of our land are laid,\n    I stood and watched due homage paid\n                    To genius bright--\n    To one whose fame shall never fade\n                    Nor lose its light.\n\n    John Hunter, 'mongst the chief of those\n    Who study all the earthly woes\n    That 'gainst our bodies frail are foes,\n                    And wound our breast,\n    Here in this Abbey finds repose\n                    And honoured rest.\n\n    The resting-place that first he found\n    No fame sufficient did redound,\n    Though many worthy were around,\n                    Most noble dust.\n    'Let's place him here;' that sentence sound,\n                    All thought it just.\n\n    And here he lies, the man whose fame\n    Detraction ne'er can put to shame,\n    Whose glory well his works can claim--\n                    His works that bear\n    The impress of his mighty name\n                    And genius rare.\n\n    In mysteries of creation's plan,\n    In study of his brother man,\n    His mind all former minds outran,\n                    And far excelled,\n    And by its strength and mighty span\n                    His views upheld.\n\n    A Scot was Hunter, bright the hour,\n    When Heaven first gave his spirit power\n    To reach fair Science' highest bower,\n                    And there remain.\n    May present Scots, in ample shower,\n                    His fame sustain!\n\n       *       *       *       *       *\n\nPrinted and Published by W. & R. CHAMBERS, 47 Paternoster Row,\nLONDON, and 339 High Street, EDINBURGH.\n\n       *       *       *       *       *\n\n_All Rights Reserved._\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEnd of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Chambers's Journal of Popular\nLiterature, Science, and Art, by Various\n\n*** ","meta":{"redpajama_set_name":"RedPajamaBook"}}
+{"text":"\n\n\n\nProduced by the Mormon Texts Project\n(http:\/\/mormontextsproject.org), with thanks to Christopher\nDunn for proofreading.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTHE\n\nBIBLE & POLYGAMY.\n\n\nDOES THE BIBLE SANCTION POLYGAMY?\n\n\nA DISCUSSION\n\nBETWEEN\n\nPROFESSOR ORSON PRATT,\n\nOne of the Twelve Apostles of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day\nSaints,\n\nAND\n\nREV. DOCTOR J. P. NEWMAN,\n\nChaplain of the United States Senate,\n\nIN THE NEW TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY,\n\nAugust 12, 13, and 14, 1870.\n\n\nTO WHICH IS ADDED\n\nTHREE SERMONS ON THE SAME SUBJECT,\n\nBY\n\nPREST. GEORGE A. SMITH,\n\nAND\n\nELDERS ORSON PRATT AND GEORGE Q. CANNON,\n\n\nSALT LAKE CITY, UTAH,\n\n1874.\n\n\n\n\n\nCORRESPONDENCE\n\nBETWEEN\n\nREVEREND DR. J. P. NEWMAN,\n\nPastor of the Metropolitan Methodist Church, Washington, D. C.,\n\nAND\n\nBRIGHAM YOUNG,\n\nPresident of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.\n\n-----\n\n                                         Salt Lake City, Aug. 6th, 1870.\n\nTO PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG:\n\nSir:--In acceptance of the challenge given in your journal, \"The Salt\nLake Daily Telegraph,\" of the 3rd of May last, to discuss the question,\n\"Does the Bible sanction polygamy?\" I have hereby to inform you that I\nam now ready to hold a public debate with you as the head of the Mormon\nChurch upon the above question, under such regulations as may be agreed\nupon for said discussion; and I suggest for our mutual convenience\nthat, either by yourself or by two gentlemen whom you shall designate,\nyou may meet two gentlemen whom I will select for the purpose of making\nall necessary arrangements for the debate, with as little delay as\npossible. May I hope for a reply at your earliest convenience, and at\nleast not later than 3 o'clock to-day?\n\n                                     Respectfully, etc.,\n\n                                                     J. P. NEWMAN.\n\n-----\n\n                                      Salt Lake City, U. T., Aug. 6th, 1870.\n\nREV. DR. J. P. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--Yours of even date has just been received, in answer to which I\nhave to inform you that no challenge was ever given by me to any person\nthrough the columns of the \"Salt Lake Daily Telegraph,\" and this is the\nfirst information I have received that any such challenge ever appeared.\n\nYou have been mis-informed with regard to the \"Salt Lake Daily\nTelegraph;\" it was not my journal, but was owned and edited by Dr.\nFuller, of Chicago, who was not a member of our church, and I was not\nacquainted with its columns.\n\n                                            Respectfully,\n\n                                                     BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\n-----\n\n                                           Salt Lake City, Aug. 6, 1870.\n\nTO PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG:\n\nSir:--I confess my disappointment at the contents of your note in reply\nto mine of this date. In the far East it is impossible to distinguish\nthe local relations between yourself and those papers which advocate\nthe interests of your Church; and when the copy of the \"Telegraph\"\ncontaining the article of the 3rd of May last, reached Washington, the\nonly construction put upon it by my friends was that it was a challenge\nto me to come to your city and discuss the Bible doctrine of polygamy.\n\nHad I chosen to put a different construction on that article, and\nto take no further notice of it, you could then have adopted the\n\"Telegraph\" as your organ and the said article as a challenge, which\nI either could not or dared not accept. That I am justified in this\nconstruction is clear from the following facts:\n\n1. The article in the \"Telegraph,\" of May 3rd, contains these\nexpressions, alluding to my sermon as reported in the N. Y. \"Herald,\"\nit says: \"The discourse was a lengthened argument to prove that the\nBible does not sustain polygamy. * * * * * * * * The sermon should have\nbeen delivered in the New Tabernacle in this city, with ten thousand\nMormons to listen to it, and then Elder Orson Pratt, or some prominent\nMormon, should have had a hearing on the other side and the people been\nallowed to decide. * * * * * Dr. Newman, by his very sermon, recognizes\nthe religious element of the question. * * * * Let us have a fair\ncontest of peaceful argument and let the best side win. * * * We will\npublish their notices in the \"Telegraph,\" report their discourses as\nfar as possible, use every influence in our power, if any is needed,\nto secure them the biggest halls and crowded congregations, and we\nare satisfied that every opportunity will be given them to conduct a\ncampaign. We base this last remark on a statement made last Sunday week\nin the Tabernacle by President Geo. A. Smith, that the public halls\nthroughout the Territory have been and would be open to clergymen of\nother denominations coming to Utah to preach. * * * Come on and convert\nthem by the peaceful influences of the Bible instead of using the means\nnow proposed. Convince them by reason and Scriptural argument and no\nCullom Bill will be required.\"\n\n2. I understand the article containing the above expressions, was\nwritten by Elder Sloan, of the Mormon Church, and at that time\nassociate editor of the \"Telegraph;\" and that he was, and has since\nbeen, in constant intercourse with yourself. The expressions of the\nsaid article, as above cited, were the foundation of the impression\nthroughout the country, that a challenge had thus been given\nthrough the columns of the \"Telegraph,\" and as such, I myself, had\nno alternative but so to regard and accept it. I may add that I am\ninformed that an impression prevailed here in Utah, that a challenge\nhad been given and accepted. Under this impression I have acted from\nthat day to this, having myself both spoken of and seen allusions to\nthe anticipated discussion in several prominent papers of the country.\n\n3. It was not till after my arrival in your city last evening, in\npursuance of this impression, that I learned the fact that the same\nElder Sloan, in the issue of the \"Salt Lake Herald,\" of Aug. 3rd,\nattempts for the first time to disabuse the public of the idea so\ngenerally prevalent. Still acting in good faith and knowing that\nyou had never denied or recalled the challenge of the 3rd of May, I\ninformed you of my presence in your city and of the object of my visit\nhere.\n\nMy note this morning with your reply, will serve to put the matter\nbefore the public in its true light and dispel the impression of very\nmany in all parts of the country, that such a challenge had been given\nand that such a discussion would be held.\n\nFeeling that I have now fully discharged my share of the responsibility\nin the case, it only remains for me to subscribe myself, as before,\n\n                                           Respectfully,\n\n                                                  J. P. NEWMAN.\n\n-----\n\n                                             Salt Lake City, Aug. 6, 1870.\n\nREV. DR. J. P. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--It will be a pleasure to us, if you will address our congregation\nto-morrow morning, the 7th inst., in the small Tabernacle at 10 a. m.,\nor, should you prefer it, in the New Tabernacle at 2 p. m., same inst.,\nor both morning and evening.\n\n                                            Respectfully,\n\n                                                    BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\nP. S. I hope to hear from you immediately.\n\n                                                 B. Y.\n\n-----\n\n                    Salt Lake City, Aug. 6, 1870, Eight o'clock, P.M.\n\nTO PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG:\n\nSir:--In reply to your note just received to preach in the Tabernacle\nto-morrow, I have to say that after disclaiming and declining, as you\nhave done to-day, the discussion which I came here to hold, other\narrangements to speak in the city were accepted by me, which will\npreclude my compliance with your invitation.\n\n                                      Respectfully,\n\n                                              J. P. NEWMAN.\n\n-----\n\n                                Salt Lake City, U. T., Aug. 6, 1870.\n\nREV. DR. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--In accordance with our usual custom of tendering clergymen of\nevery denomination, passing through our city, the opportunity of\npreaching in our tabernacles of worship, I sent you, this afternoon,\nan invitation tendering you the use of the small Tabernacle in the\nmorning, or the New Tabernacle in the afternoon, or both, at your\npleasure, which you have seen proper to decline.\n\nYou charge me with \"disclaiming and declining the discussion\" which\nyou came here to hold. I ask you, sir, what right have you to charge\nme with declining a challenge which I never gave you, or, to assume\nas a challenge from me, the writing of any unauthorized newspaper\neditor? Admitting that you could distort the article in question to\nbe a challenge from me, (which I do not believe you conscientiously\ncould) was it not the duty of a gentleman to ascertain whether I was\nresponsible for the so-called challenge before your assumption of such\na thing? And certainly much more so before making your false charges.\n\nYour assertion that if you had not chosen to construe the article\nin question as a challenge from me, I \"could then have adopted the\n'Telegraph' as your [my] organ and the said article as a challenge,\"\nis an insinuation, in my judgment, very discreditable to yourself, and\nungentlemanly in the extreme, and forces the conclusion that the author\nof it would not scruple to make use of such a subterfuge himself.\n\nYou say that Mr. Sloan is the author of the article; if so, he is\nperfectly capable of defending it, and I have no doubt you will find\nhim equally willing to do so; or Professor Orson Pratt, whose name, it\nappears, is the only one suggested in the article. I am confident he\nwould be willing to meet you, as would hundreds of our elders, whose\nfitness and respectability I would consider beyond question.\n\nIn conclusion I will ask, What must be the opinion of every candid,\nreflecting mind, who views the facts as they appear? Will they\nnot conclude that this distortion of the truth in accusing me of\ndisclaiming and declining a challenge, which I never even contemplated,\nis unfair and ungentlemanly in the extreme and must have been invented\nwith some sinister motive? Will they not consider it a paltry and\ninsignificant attempt, on your part, to gain notoriety, regardless of\nthe truth? This you may succeed in obtaining; but I am free to confess,\nas my opinion, that you will find such notoriety more unenviable\nthan profitable, and as disgraceful, too, as it is unworthy of your\nprofession.\n\nIf you think you are capable of proving the doctrine of \"Plurality of\nWives\" unscriptural, tarry here as a missionary; we will furnish you\nthe suitable place, the congregation, and plenty of our elders, any of\nwhom will discuss with you on that or any other scriptural doctrine.\n\n                                  Respectfully,\n\n                                             BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\n-----\n\n                                       Salt Lake City, Aug. 8th, 1870.\n\nTO PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\nSir:--Your last note, delivered to me on Sunday morning, and to which,\nof course, I would not on that day reply, does not at all surprise me.\n\nIt will be, however, impossible for you to conceal from the public\nthe truth, that with the full knowledge of my being present in your\ncity for the purpose of debating with you or your representative the\nquestion of polygamy, you declined to enter into any arrangements for\nsuch a discussion; and after this fact was ascertained, I felt at\nliberty to comply with a subsequent request from other parties, which\nhad been fully arranged before the reception of your note of invitation\nto preach in your Tabernacles.\n\nI must frankly say that I regard your professed courtesy, extended\nunder the circumstances, as it was, a mere device to cover, if\npossible, your unwillingness to have a fair discussion of the matter in\nquestion in the hearing of your people.\n\nYour comments upon \"disclaiming and declining the discussion\" are\nsimply a reiteration of the disclaimer; while, in regard to your notice\nof my construction of the article in the Telegraph of May last, I\nhave only to leave the representations you have seen fit to make to\nthe judgment of a candid public sure to discover who it is that has\nbeen resorting to \"subterfuge\" in this affair. Your intimation that\nElder Sloan, Prof. Pratt, or hundreds of other Mormon elders, would\nbe willing to discuss the question of Polygamy with me from a Bible\nstandpoint, and your impertinent suggestion that I tarry here as a\nmissionary for that purpose, I am compelled to regard as cheap and safe\nattempts to avoid the appearance of shrinking from such a discussion by\nseeming to invite it after it had, by your own action, been rendered\nimpossible. As to the elders you speak of, including yourself, being\nready to meet me in public debate, I have to say that I came here\nwith that understanding and expectation, but it was rudely dispelled,\non being definitely tested. Were it possible to reduce these vague\nsuggestions of yours to something like a distinct proposition for a\ndebate, there is still nothing in your action, so far, to assure me\nof your sincerity, but, on the contrary, every thing to cause me to\ndistrust it.\n\nI have one more point of remark. You have insinuated that my motive is\na thirst for \"notoriety.\" I can assure you that if I had been animated\nby such a motive, you give me small credit for good sense by supposing\nthat I would employ such means. Neither you, nor the system of which\nyou are the head, could afford me any \"notoriety\" to be desired.\n\nBut, to show how far I have been governed by merely personal\naspirations, let the simple history of the case be recalled.\n\nYou send your Delegate to Congress who, in the House of\nRepresentatives, and in sight and hearing of the whole Nation, throws\ndown the gauntlet upon the subject of Polygamy as treated in the Bible.\nBeing Chaplain of the American Senate, and having been consulted by\nseveral public men, I deemed it my duty to preach upon the subject. The\ndiscourse was published in tho New York \"Herald,\" and on this reaching\nyour city one of your Elders published an article which is generally\nconstrued as a challenge to me to debate the question with you, or\nsome one whom you should appoint, here in your tabernacle. Acting upon\nthis presumption, I visit your city, taking the earliest opportunity\nto inform you, as the head of the Mormon Church, of my purpose, and\nsuggesting the steps usual in such cases. You then reply, ignoring the\nwhole subject, but without a hint of your \"pleasure\" about my preaching\nin the Tabernacle.\n\nSubsequently other arrangements were made which precluded my accepting\nany invitation to speak in your places of worship. The day passed away,\nand after sunset I received your note of invitation, my reply to which\nwill answer for itself. And this can intimate is an attempt on my part\nto obtain an \"unenviable notoriety.\"\n\nSir, I have done with you--make what representation of the matter you\nthink proper you will not succeed in misleading the discriminating\npeople either of this Territory or of the country generally by any\namount of verbiage you may choose to employ.\n\n                            Respectfully, etc.,\n\n                                        J. P. NEWMAN.\n\n-----\n\n[The communication referred to in the letter below was addressed to Dr.\nNewman by five persons, who asked him whether it was a fact that he\nwas unwilling to debate the question of polygamy now and here, as that\nwas the impression, they say, the Deseret Evening News and _Salt Lake\nHerald_, conveyed.]\n\n-----\n\n                                      Salt Lake City, Aug. 9th, 1870.\n\nTO MR. BRIGHAM YOUNG:\n\nSir:--In view of the inclosed communications, received from several\ncitizens of this place asking whether I am ready now and here to debate\nthe question \"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" with you, as the Chief\nof the Church of Latter-day Saints, and in view of the defiant tone\nof your Church journals of last evening and this morning; and in view\nof the fact that I have been here now four days waiting to have you\ninform me of your willingness to meet me in public discussion on the\nabove question, but having received no such intimation up to this time\nof writing, therefore, I do now and here challenge you to meet me in\npersonal and public debate on the aforesaid question. I respectfully\nsuggest that you appoint two gentlemen to meet Rev. Dr. Sunderland and\nDr. J. P. Taggart, who represent me, to make all necessary arrangements\nfor the discussion.\n\nBe kind enough to favor me with an immediate reply.\n\n                                           Respectfully,\n\n                                                  J. P. NEWMAN.\n\nResidence of Rev. Mr. Pierce.\n\n-----\n\n                               Salt Lake City, U. T., August 9th, 1870.\n\nREV. DR. J. P. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--Your communication of to-day's date, with accompanying enclosure,\nwas handed to me a few moments since by Mr. Black.\n\nIn reply, I will say that I accept the challenge to debate the question\n\"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" Professor Orson Pratt or Hon. John\nTaylor acting as my representative, and in my stead in the discussion.\nI will furnish the place of holding the meetings, and appoint two\ngentlemen to meet Messrs. Sunderland and Taggart, to whom you refer as\nyour representatives, to make the necessary arrangements.\n\nI wish the discussion to be conducted in a mild, peaceable, quiet\nspirit, that the people may receive light and intelligence and all be\nbenefitted; and then let the congregation decide for themselves.\n\n                                         Respectfully,\n\n                                                BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\n-----\n\n                                                  City, Aug. 9th, 1870\n\nREV. DR. J. P. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--I have appointed Messrs A. Carrington and Jos. W. Young to meet\nwith Messrs Sunderland and Taggart, to arrange preliminaries for the\ndiscussion.\n\n                                          Respectfully,\n\n                                                   BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\n-----\n\n                                       Salt Lake City, Aug. 9th, 1870.\n\nTO MR. BRIGHAM YOUNG:\n\nSir:--I challenged you to a discussion and not Orson Pratt or John\nTaylor. You have declined to debate personally with me. Let the public\ndistinctly understand this fact, whatever may have been your reasons\nfor so declining. Here I think I might reasonably rest the case.\nHowever, if Orson Pratt is prepared to take the affirmative of the\nquestion, \"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" I am prepared to take\nthe negative, and Messrs. Sunderland and Taggart will meet Messrs.\nCarrington and Young to-night at 8 o'clock at the office of Mr. Taggart\nto make the necessary arrangements.\n\n                                    Respectfully, etc.,\n\n                                                   J. P. NEWMAN.\n\n-----\n\n                              Salt Lake City, U. T., Aug. 10th, 1870.\n\nREV. DR. J. P. NEWMAN:\n\nSir:--I am informed by Messrs. Carrington and Young that at their\nmeeting last evening with Drs. Sunderland and Taggart they were unable\nto come to a decision with regard to the wording of the subject of\ndebate.\n\nBearing in mind the following facts: Firstly, that you are the\nchallenging party. Secondly, That in a sermon delivered by you in the\ncity of Washington, before President Grant and his Cabinet, Members of\nCongress and many other prominent gentlemen, you assumed to prove that\n\"God's law condemns the union in marriage of more than two persons,\" it\ncertainly seems strange that your representatives should persistently\nrefuse to have any other question discussed than the one \"Does the\nBible sanction Polygamy?\" It appears to the representatives of Mr.\nPratt that if Dr. Newman could undertake to prove in Washington that\n\"God's law condemns the union in marriage of more than two persons,\"\nhe ought not to refuse to make the same affirmation in Salt Lake City.\nMr. Pratt, I discover, entertains the same opinion, but rather than\npermit the discussion to fall, he will not press for your original\nproposition, but will accept the question as you now state it: \"Does\nthe Bible sanction Polygamy?\"\n\nI sincerely trust that none of the gentlemen forming the committee will\nencumber the discussion with unnecessary regulations, which will be\nirksome to both parties and unproductive of good, and that no obstacles\nwill be thrown in the way of having a free and fair discussion.\n\n                                         Respectfully,\n\n                                                  BRIGHAM YOUNG.\n\n\n\nTHE\n\nBIBLE AND POLYGAMY.\n\nDOES THE BIBLE SANCTION POLYGAMY?\n\nDISCUSSION BETWEEN PROFESSOR ORSON PRATT AND DR. J. P. NEWMAN, CHAPLAIN\nOF THE U. S. SENATE, IN THE NEW TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY, AUGUST 12,\n13 AND 14, 1870.\n\n\n\nFIRST DAY.\n\nAt two o'clock yesterday afternoon Professor Pratt and Dr. Newman, with\ntheir friends and the umpires, met in the stand of the New Tabernacle:\nthe two former gentlemen prepared for the discussion of the question,\n\"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" An audience of three or four\nthousand--at least half of which was of the gentler sex--assembled\nto hear the discussion. At a few minutes past two, the audience was\ncalled to order by Judge C. M. Hawley, the umpire of Dr. Newman, on the\nnegative, he (fortunately we presume) being absent from his district\nat this juncture--and Elder John Taylor offered the opening prayer.\nThe same umpire, who somehow or other had got the idea that he was the\nmaster of ceremonies on the occasion, and that he would relieve the\numpire of the affirmative side from all his duties, then introduced\nProfessor Pratt to the audience, which, as the professor was so well\nknown and the umpire almost unknown, created a slight titter, which,\nhowever, speedily subsided, and the assemblage listened quietly to the\n\nARGUMENT OF PROFESSOR ORSON PRATT.\n\nI appear before this audience to discuss a subject that is certainly\nimportant to us, and no doubt is interesting to the country at large,\nnamely: the subject of plurality of wives, or, as the question is\nstated: \"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" I would state, by way of\napology to the audience, that I have been unaccustomed, nearly all\nmy life, to debate. It is something new to me. I do not recollect of\never having held more than one or two debates, in the course of my\nlife, on any subject. I think the last one was some thirty years ago,\nin the city of Edinburgh. But I feel great pleasure this afternoon\nin appearing before this audience for the purpose of examining the\nquestion under discussion. I shall simply read what is stated in the\nBible, and make such remarks as I may consider proper upon the occasion.\n\nI will call your attention to a passage which will be found in\nDeuteronomy, the 21st Chapter, from the 15th to the 17th verse:\n\n If a man have two wives, one beloved and another hated, and they\n have borne him children, both the beloved and the hated; and if the\n first-born be hers that was hated: Then it shall be when, he maketh\n his sons to inherit that which he hath, that he may not make the son\n of the beloved first-born before the son of the hated, which is indeed\n the first-born: But he shall acknowledge the son of the hated for the\n first-born, by giving him a double portion of all that he hath; for he\n is the beginning of his strength; the right of the first-born is his.\n\nHere is a law, in the words of the Great Law-giver himself, the Lord,\nwho spake to Moses; and it certainly must be a sanction of a plurality\nof wives, for it is given to regulate inheritances in families of\nthat description, as well as in families wherein the first wife may\nhave been divorced, or may be dead; wives contemporary and wives that\nare successive. It refers to both classes; and inasmuch as plurality\nof wives is nowhere condemned in the law of God, we have a right to\nbelieve from this law that plurality of wives is just as legal and\nproper as that of the marriage of a single wife. This is the ground\nwe are forced to take until we can find some law, some evidence, some\ntestimony to the contrary. They are acknowledged as wives in this\npassage, at least--\"If a man have two wives.\" It is well known that\nthe House of Israel at that time practised both monogamy and polygamy.\nThey were not exclusively monogamists; neither were they exclusively\npolygamists. There were monogamic families existing in Israel in those\ndays, and therefore in the Lord giving this He referred not only to\nsuccessive wives, where a man had married after the death of his first\nwife, or if the first wife had been divorced for some legal cause, but\nto wives who were contemporary, as there were many families in Israel,\nwhich can be proved if necessary, that were polygamists. I might here\nrefer to the existence of this principle concerning the rights of the\nfirst-born in monogamic and polygamic families prior to the date of\nthis law. This seems to have been given to regulate a question that had\na prior existence. I will refer, before I proceed from this passage,\nto the monogamic family of Isaac, wherein we have the declaration that\nEsau and Jacob, being twins, had a dispute, or at least there was\nan ill feeling on the part of Esau, because Jacob at a certain time\nhad purchased the right of the first-born--that is, his birth-right.\nThe first-born, though twins, and perhaps a few moments intervening\nbetween the first and second, or only a short time, had rights, and\nthose rights were respected and honored centuries before the days of\nMoses. This was a monogamic family, so far as we are informed; for if\nIsaac had more than one wife, the Bible does not inform us. We come\nto Jacob, who was a polygamist, and whose first-born son pertained to\nthe father and not to the mother. There were not four first-born sons\nto Jacob who were entitled to the rights of the first-born, but only\none. The first-born to Jacob was Reuben, and he would have retained\nthe birth-right had he not transgressed the law of heaven. Because\nof transgression he lost that privilege. It was taken from him and\ngiven to Joseph, or rather to the two sons of Joseph, as you will find\nrecorded in the fifth chapter of 1st Chronicles. Here then the rights\nof the first-born were acknowledged, in both polygamic and monogamic\nfamilies, before the law under consideration was given. The House of\nIsrael was not only founded in polygamy, but the two wives of Jacob,\nand the two handmaidens, that were also called his wives, were the\nwomen with whom he begat the twelve sons from whom the twelve tribes of\nIsrael sprang; and polygamy having existed and originated as it were\nwith Israel or Jacob, in that nation, was continued among them from\ngeneration to generation down until the coming of Christ; and these\nlaws therefore were intended to regulate an institution already in\nexistence. If the law is limited to monogamic families only, it will\ndevolve upon my learned opponent to bring forth evidence to establish\nthis point.\n\nWe will next refer to a passage which will be found in Exodus 21st\nchapter, 10th verse. It may be well to read the three preceding\nverses, commencing with the 7th: \"And if a man sell his daughter to be\na maid-servant, she shall not go out as the men servants do. If she\nplease not her master, who hath betrothed her to himself, then shall he\nlet her be redeemed; to sell her into a strange nation he shall have\nno power, seeing he hath dealt deceitfully with her. And if he hath\nbetrothed her unto his son, he shall deal with her after the manner\nof daughters. If he take him another wife, her food, her raiment and\nher duty of marriage shall he not diminish.\" Also the following verse,\nthe 11th: \"And if he do not these three unto her, then shall she go\nout free without money.\" I think from the nature of this passage that\nit certainly does have reference to two lawful wives. It may be that\nobjection will be taken to the word \"wife\"--\"another wife\"--from the\nfact that it is in Italics, and was so placed by the translators of\nKing James, according to the best judgment they could form, taking\ninto consideration the text. I do not intend at present to dwell at\nany great length upon this passage, merely declaring that this does\nsanction plurality of wives, so far as my judgment and opinion are\nconcerned, and so far as the literal reading of the Scripture exhibits\nit does sanction the taking of another wife, while the first is still\nliving. If this word \"wife\" could be translated \"woman,\" that perhaps\nmight alter the case, providing it can be proved that it should be so\nfrom the original, which may be referred to on this point, and it may\nnot. We have the privilege, I believe, of taking the Bible according\nto King James' translation, or of referring to the original, providing\nwe can find any original. But so far as the original is concerned,\nfrom which this was translated, it is not in existence. The last\ninformation we have of the original manuscripts from which this was\ntranslated, is that they were made into the form of kites and used for\namusement, instead of being preserved. With regard to a great many\nother manuscripts, they may perhaps agree with the original of King\nJames' translation, or they may not. We have testimony and evidence in\nthe Encyclopedia Metropolitana that the original manuscripts contained\na vast number of readings, differing materially one from the other. We\nhave this statement from some of the best informed men, and in several\ninstances it has been stated that there are 30,000 different readings\nof these old original manuscripts from which the Bible was translated.\nMen might dispute over these readings all the days of their lives and\nthere would be a difference of opinion, there were so many of them.\nThis, then, is another law, regulating, in my estimation, polygamy.\n\nI will now refer to another law on the subject of polygamy, in the\n25th chapter of Deuteronomy--I do not recollect the verse, but I\nwill soon find it--it commences at the 5th verse. \"If brethren dwell\ntogether\"--Now, it is well enough in reading this, to refer to the\nmargin, as we have the privilege of appealing to it, so you will find\nin the margin the words \"next kinsmen,\" or \"brethren.\" \"If brethren--or\nnext kinsmen--dwell together:\"\n\n If brethren dwell together, and one of them die, and have no child,\n the wife of the dead shall not marry without unto a stranger: her\n husband's brother shall go in unto her, and take her to him to wife,\n and perform the duty of a husband's brother unto her.\n\n And it shall be, that the first-born which she beareth shall succeed\n in the name of his brother which is dead, that his name be not put out\n of Israel.\n\n And if the man like not to take his brother's wife, then let his\n brother's wife go up to the gate unto the elders, and say, My\n husband's brother refuseth to raise up unto his brother a name in\n Israel, he will not perform the duty of my husband's brother.\n\n Then the elders of his city shall call him, and speak unto him: and if\n he stand to it, and say, I like not to take her;\n\n Then shall his brother's wife come unto him in the presence of the\n elders, and loose his shoe from off his foot, and spit in his face,\n and shall answer and say, So shall it be done unto that man that will\n not build up his brother's house.\n\n And his name shall be called in Israel, the house of him that hath his\n shoe loosed.\n\nIt may be asked, What has this to do with polygamy? I answer that as\nthe law is general, it is binding upon brethren and upon all near\nkinsmen dwelling together. Not unmarried brethren or unmarried kinsmen,\nbut the married and unmarried. The law is general. If it can be proved\nfrom the original, or from any source whatever, that the law is not\ngeneral, then the point will have to be given up. But if that cannot\nbe proven, then here is a law that not only sanctions polygamy, but\ncommands it; and if we can find one law where a command is given,\nthen plurality of wives would be established on a permanent footing,\nequal in legality to that of monogamy. This law of God absolutely\ndoes command all persons, whether married or unmarried, it makes no\ndifference--brethren dwelling together, or near kinsmen dwelling\ntogether--which shows that it is not unmarried persons living in the\nsame house that are meant, but persons living together in the same\nneighborhood, in the same country in Israel, as it is well known that\nIsrael in ancient days did so dwell together; and the law was binding\nupon them. This was calculated to make a vast number of polygamists\nin Israel from that day until the coming of Christ. And the Christian\nreligion must have admitted these polygamists into the Church, because\nthey would have been condemned if they had not observed this law.\nThere was a penalty attached to it, and they could not be justified\nand refuse to obey it. Hence there must have been hundreds, perhaps\nthousands, of polygamists in Israel, when Jesus came, who were living\nin obedience to this law and who would have been condemned if they had\ndisobeyed it. When the gospel was preached to them, if they could not\nhave been admitted into the Christian Church without divorcing their\nwives God would have been unjust to them, for if they, through their\nobedience to God's law, should have been cut off from the gospel, would\nit not have been both inconsistent and unjust? But as there is no law\neither in the Old or New Testament against polygamy, and as we here\nfind polygamy commanded, we must come to the conclusion that it is a\nlegal form of marriage. We cannot come to any other conclusion, for\nit stands on a par with the monogamic form of marriage; consequently,\nwherever we find either righteous men or wicked men, whatever may be\ntheir practices in the course of their lives, it does not affect the\nlegality of their marriage with one wife or with two wives.\n\nWe may refer you to Cain, who had but one wife, so far as we are\ninformed. He was a monogamist. He was also a very wicked man, having\nkilled his own brother. We find he was driven out into the land of\nNod. Of course, as the Lord had not created any females in the land of\nNod, Cain must have taken his wife with him, and there was born a son\nto him in that land. Shall we condemn monogamy and say it was sinful\nbecause Cain was a murderer? No; that will never do. We can bring no\nargument of this kind to destroy monogamy, or the one-wife system, and\nmake it illegal. We come down to the days of Lamech. He was another\nmurderer. He happened to be a polygamist; but he did not commit his\nmurder in connection with polygamy, so far as the Scriptures give any\ninformation. There is no connection between the law of polygamy and\nthe murder he committed in slaying a young man. Does that, therefore,\ninvalidate the marriage of two persons to Lamech? No; it stands on just\nas good ground as the case of Cain, who was a monogamist and a murderer\nalso.\n\nAdam was a monogamist. But was there any law given to Adam to prevent\nhim taking another wife? If there was such a law, it is not recorded in\nKing James' translation. If there be such a law recorded, perhaps it is\nin some of the originals that differed so much from each other. It may\nbe argued, in the case of Adam, that the Lord created but one woman to\nbegin the peopling of this earth. If the Lord saw proper to create but\none woman for that purpose, he had a perfect right to do so.\n\nThe idea that that has any bearing upon the posterity of Adam because\nthe Lord did not create two women would be a very strange idea indeed.\nThere are a great many historical facts recorded concerning the days\nof Adam that were not to be examples to his posterity. For instance,\nhe was ordered to cultivate the garden of Eden--one garden. Was that\nany reason why his posterity should not cultivate two gardens? Would\nany one draw the conclusion that, because God gave a command to Adam\nto cultivate the garden of Eden, to dress it and keep it, that his\nposterity to the latest time should all have one garden each, and\nno more? There is no expression of a law in these matters; they are\nsimply historical facts. Again, God gave him clothing on a certain\noccasion, the Lord himself being the tailor--clothing to cover the\nnakedness of Adam and of Eve his wife; and this clothing was made from\nthe skins of beasts. This is a historical fact. Will any one say that\nall the posterity of Adam shall confine their practice in accordance\nwith this historical fact? Or that it was an expression of law from\nwhich they must not deviate? By no means. If the posterity of Adam see\nfit to manufacture clothing out of wool, or flax, or cotton, or any\nother material whatever, would any one argue in this day that they\nwere acting in violation of the law of the Divine Creator, of a law\nexpressed and commanded in the early ages? Why, no. We should think\na man had lost all powers of reason who would argue this way. As our\ndelegate remarked in his speech, Adam had taken all the women in the\nworld, or that were made for him. If there had been more, he might have\ntaken them: there was nothing in the law to limit him.\n\nI would like to dwell upon this longer, but I have many other passages\nto which I wish to draw your attention. The next passage to which I\nwill refer, you will find in Numbers, 31st chapter, 17th and 18th\nverses. This chapter gives us a history of the proceedings of this\nmixed race of polygamists and monogamists called Israel. At a certain\ntime they went out to battle against the nation of Midianites; and\nhaving smote the men, they took all the women captives, as you will\nfind in the 9th verse. Commencing at the 15th verse, we read:\n\n And Moses said unto them have ye saved all the women alive? Behold\n these caused the children of Israel, through the counsel of Balaam, to\n commit trespass against the Lord in the matter of Peor, and there was\n a plague among the congregation of the Lord.\n\nYou will recollect the case of some Midianitish women being brought\ninto the camp of Israel contrary to the law of God, not being wives;\nand Israel with them sinned and transgressed the law of heaven, and the\nLord sent an awful plague into their midst for this transgression. Now,\nhere was a large number of women saved, and Moses, finding they were\nbrought into camp, said these had caused the children of Israel to sin;\nand he gave command: \"Now, therefore, kill every male among the little\nones, and kill every woman that hath known man by lying with him. But\nall the women children, that have not known man by lying with him,\nkeep alive for yourselves.\" How many were there of this great company\nthat they were to keep alive for themselves? There was something very\nstrange in this. If they had caused Israel to sin why spare them? Or\nwhy keep them alive for themselves? That they might have them lawfully.\nSome may say to have them as servants, not as wives. Some might have\nbeen kept as servants and not as wives, but would there not have been\ngreat danger of Israel sinning again with so many thousand servants,\nas they were the same women who had brought the plague into the camp\nof Israel before? How many were there of these women? Thirty-two\nthousand, as you will find in another verse of the same chapter. And\nthese were divided up as you will also find, in the latter part of the\nsame chapter, among the children of Israel. Those who stayed at home\nfrom the war took a certain portion--sixteen thousand in number; those\nwho went to the war, including the Levites, took the remaining sixteen\nthousand.\n\nNow to show that polygamy was practised among the children of Israel in\ntaking captive women, let me refer you to another passage of Scripture,\nin Deuteronomy, 21st chapter, commencing at the 10th verse.\n\n When thou goest forth to war against thine enemies, and the Lord thy\n God hath delivered them into thine hands, and thou hast taken them\n captive;\n\n And seest among the captives a beautiful woman, and hast a desire unto\n her, that thou wouldst have her to thy wife;\n\n Then thou shalt bring her home to thine house; and she shall shave her\n head, and pare her nails;\n\n And she shall put the raiment of her captivity from off her, and shall\n remain in thine house, and bewail her father and her mother a full\n month: and after that thou shalt go in unto her, and be her husband,\n and she shall be thy wife.\n\n And it shall be. If thou have no delight in her, then thou shalt let\n her go whither she will; but thou shalt not sell her at all for money,\n thou shalt not make merchandise of her, because thou hast humbled her.\n\nNow, this law was given to a nation, as I have already shown, which\npractised polygamy as well as monogamy; and consequently if a\npolygamist saw a woman, a beautiful woman, among the captives; or if a\nmonogamist saw a beautiful woman among the captives; or if an unmarried\nman saw a beautiful woman among the captives, the law being general,\nthey had an equal right to take them as wives. This will explain the\nreason why the Lord told Israel to save thirty-two thousand Midianitish\nwomen alive for themselves. It will be recollected that the Israelites\nhad a surplus of women. I have no need to refer to the destruction\nof the males that had been going on for a long period of time--about\neighty years, until Moses went to deliver Israel from Egypt. During\nthis time females were spared alive, making a surplus of them in the\nmidst of Israel; but the Lord saw there was not enough, and He made\nprovision for more by commanding them to spare these captive women and\nkeep them alive for themselves. If my opponent, who will follow me,\ncan bring forth any evidence from the law of God, or from the passage\nunder consideration, to prove that this law was limited to unmarried\nmen, all right; we will yield the point, if there can be evidence\nbrought forward to that effect. \"When you go forth to war if you see a\nbeautiful woman\"--not you unmarried men alone, but all that go forth to\nwar.\n\nThe next passage to which I will refer you, where God absolutely\ncommands polygamy, will be found in Exodus, 22nd chapter, 16th and 17th\nverses:\n\n And if a man entice a maid that is not betrothed, and lie with her, he\n shall surely endow her to be his wife.\n\n If her father utterly refuse to give her unto him, he shall pay money\n according to the dowry of virgins.\n\nThere is the law of Exodus; now let us turn to the law of Deuteronomy,\n22nd chapter, 28th and 29th verses, on the same subject:\n\n If a man find a damsel that is a virgin, which is not betrothed, and\n lay hold on her, and lie with her, and they be found;\n\n Then the man that lay with her shall give unto the damsel's father\n fifty shekels of silver, and she shall be his wife; because he hath\n humbled her, he may not put her away all his days.\n\nDoes this mean an unmarried man? The law was given to a nation wherein\nboth forms of marriage were recognized, and wherein single men existed.\nIf it does mean single men alone, we would like to hear the proof. The\nlaw is general. Whether married or unmarried, whether a monogamist\nor polygamist, if he committed this crime, if he found a maid and\ncommitted the crime there specified, of seduction, there is the law;\nhe shall marry her, and shall not only marry her, but shall pay a fine\nof fifty shekels of silver to the father. This was the penalty; not\nthat they were justified in the act. It mattered not whether he was a\npolygamist, a monogamist, or an unmarried man, he must comply with the\nlaw as a penalty. That was another command establishing and sanctioning\npolygamy, sanctioning it by Divine command. If this law could have\nbeen put in force in modern times, among modern Christian nations,\nwhat a vast amount of evil would have been avoided in the earth. It\nis proverbial that among all the nations of modern Europe, as well as\nin our own great nation--Christian nations--there is a vast amount of\nprostitution, houses of ill-lame, and prostitutes of various forms;\nnow, if this law, which God gave to Israel, had been re-enacted by the\nlaw-makers and legislatures and parliaments of these various nations,\nwhat would have been the consequence? In a very short time there would\nnot have been a house of ill-fame in existence. Their inmates would\nhave all been married off to their seducers, or their patrons; for who\ndoes not know that females would far rather be married than prostitute\nthemselves as they do at the present time? And they would lie in wait\nto entrap this man and that man, and the other man, to get out of these\nbrothels, and, as the law is general, if the same law had existed in\nour day, it would soon have broken up houses of ill-fame. There might\nhave been some secret evils; but it would have broken up the \"social\nevil.\"\n\nThe next passage to which I will refer you is in 2nd Chronicles, 24th\nchapter, 2nd, 3rd, 15th and 18th verses:\n\n And Joash did that which was right in the sight of the Lord all the\n days of Jehoiada the priest. And Jehoiada took for him two wives, and\n he begat sons and daughters.\n\nAccording to the ideas of monogamists, Jehoiada must have been a very\nwicked man, and Joash \"a beastly polygamist\" for taking two wives. We\nwill take the man who received the wives first. Joash, who received the\nwives from the highest authority God had on the earth, did \"right in\nthe sight of the Lord, all the days of Jehoiada the priest.\" What! Did\nhe do right when Jehoiada took two wives for him and gave them to him?\nYes; so says the word of God, the Bible, and you know the question is\n\"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" But what a dreadful priest that man\nmust have been, according to the arguments of monogamists! Let us see\nwhat kind of a character he appears. In this same chapter, 28th verse,\nif I recollect aright: (looking). No, in the 15th and 16th verses we\nread:\n\n But Jehoiada waxed old, and was full of days when he died; a hundred\n and thirty years old was he when he died. And they buried him in the\n city of David among the kings, because he had done good in Israel,\n both toward God, and toward his house.\n\n\"Because he had done good in Israel, both toward God and towards his\nhouse,\" they buried him among the kings, honored him in that manner;\nand the reason why they did bestow this great honor upon him was\nbecause he had done good. In the first place he had given two wives\nto Joash, which was a very good act, for he was the highest authority\nGod had upon the earth at that time; and God sanctioned polygamy by\nlengthening out the age of this man to 130 years, a very long age in\nthose days.\n\nBut I shall have to hasten on, although there are many passages which I\nhave not time to quote. The next will be found in Hosea, 1st chapter,\n2nd and 3rd verses: \"The beginning of the word of the Lord by Hosea.\"\nThis was the introduction of Hosea as a prophet. No doubt he brought\nthe evidence as a prophet; and in the beginning of the word of God\nthrough Hosea, to the world, he must have come with great proof. The\nfirst thing the Lord said to him, was \"Go take unto thee a wife of\nwhoredoms.\" In the 3rd verse it says: \"So he went and took Gomer, the\ndaughter of Diblain.\" If such a thing had occurred in our day; if a\nman had come forth, professing to be a prophet, and the first thing he\nsaid as a prophet was that the Lord had revealed to him that he was\nto go and take a wife of such a character, what would be thought of\nhim? Yet he was a true prophet. Was this the only wife God commanded\nHosea to take? No. The Lord said--\"Go yet, love a woman beloved of\nher friends, yet an adulteress\"--See chapter 3rd. What, love a woman,\nan adulteress, when he already had a wife of very bad character! Take\nwives of such disgraceful reputation! Yet God commanded this, and he\nmust be obeyed. This did not justify any other prophet in doing so.\nJeremiah would not have been justified in doing the same. But this was\na command of God, given to Hosea alone. It was not given as a pattern\nfor any other man to follow after, or for the people of this generation\nto observe. Yet it was given in this instance. \"But,\" inquires one,\n\"does not the Lord require such characters to be put to death?\" Yes;\nbut in this instance, it seems, the Lord deviated from this law; for\nHe commanded a holy prophet to go and marry two women. This recalls\nto my mind the law given to Israel, recorded in Deuteronomy, where\nthe Lord commanded the law of consanguinity to be broken. You will\nrecollect that in two different chapters the Lord pointed out who\nshould not marry within certain degrees of consanguinity; yet in the\n25th chapter of Deuteronomy he commanded brethren, who dwell together,\nand near kinsmen, to break that law, which was a justification in\npart to not regard the law of consanguinity. God has the right to\nalter his commands as he pleases. Go back to the days of Noah, and\nthe command was given: \"Whoso sheddeth man's blood, by man shall his\nblood be shed;\" yet the same God commanded Abraham, that good man who\nis up yonder in the kingdom of God, according to the New Testament, to\ntake his son Isaac and slay him and offer him up as a burnt offering.\nHere is one command in opposition to another. Consequently, God does\nsometimes give a command in opposition to another, but they are not\nexamples for you or me to follow. Supposing I should prove by ten\nthousand examples from the Bible that polygamy was practised in ancient\nIsrael, is that a reason why you and I should practise it. No; we must\nhave a command for ourselves. God sometimes repeats a command. The\nLatter-day Saints in this Territory practise polygamy; not because God\ncommanded it in ancient times, not because Moses gave laws to regulate\nit; not because it was practised by good men of ancient times--\n\n(At this point the umpires said the time was up.)\n\nJudge C. M. Hawley then introduced Dr. J. P. Newman, who proceeded to\ndeliver the following\n\nARGUMENT.\n\nHonorable Umpires and\n\nLadies and Gentlemen:\n\nThe question for our consideration is \"Does the Bible sanction\nPolygamy?\" It is of the utmost importance that we proceed to the\ndiscussion of this question and the unfolding of its elements at\nonce; and therefore, that we lose no time, we propose to analyze the\nquestion. I had desired nine hours to speak on this great subject;\nbut by mutual consent the time has been reduced to three. In view of\nthis fact I, therefore, proceed at once to the consideration of the\nelements of the question \"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\" Every word\nis emphatic. Does the Bible--the Bible--God's word, whether in the\noriginal text or in the translation which is accepted by Christendom,\nas the revealed will of God; this old book which has come down from the\nhoary past; this old book written by different men, under different\ncircumstances, yet for one great and grand object; this book that comes\nto us under the authority of plenary inspiration, no matter what has\nbecome of the manuscripts, whether lost in the flood or consumed in the\nflame that burned the doomed Persepolis, no matter what has been their\ndestiny, we have the original, the Hebrew, the Septuagint and the Greek\ntranslations; in the New Testament the Greek, which have been and are\naccepted by the most eminent Biblical scholars; therefore the point\nthe gentleman makes that so many manuscripts are lost, is a bagatelle.\nI throw it away, as useless as a rush. Would he have me infer that\nbecause some manuscripts are lost, therefore that book is not the\nauthentic word of God and the revealed will of High Heaven? No; for him\nto assume that is to assume that that book is not God's will. Supposing\nthat the original revelation, the pretended revelation, that you, here,\nwere to practise polygamy, was consumed in the flames by the wife of\nJoseph Smith, does that invalidate the preserved copy which Mr. Joseph\nSmith had in his bosom? Certainly not. I hold therefore that that old\nbook comes to us with authority; and that whatever has become of the\nmanuscripts which have been furnished, formed, arranged and handed down\nto us, that is our standard.\n\nI am here to speak to the people, and I will be an organ to you in the\nname of the Lord.\n\nBut let us look at this book. It is a book of history and of biography,\nof prophecy and precepts; of promises and of miracles; of laws and\nprecepts; of promises and threatenings; of poetry and of narrative.\nIt is to be judged by the ordinary rules of grammar, of rhetoric and\nof logic. It is written in human language. There is a language spoken\nby the persons in the Godhead, and had God revealed himself in that\nlanguage we could not have understood the terms. There is a language\nspoken by the angels that blaze before the throne; had God spoken to\nus in angelic language we could not have understood the terms. But\nhe took human language, with all its poverty and imperfections, and\nwith all its excellencies. He has spoken to us in terms by which we\ncan understand his pleasure concerning us. But it is a great fact, my\nfriends, that all that is written in the Bible is neither approved\nby the Almighty, nor was it written for our imitation. Achan stole a\nBabylonish garment and a wedge of gold. God did not approve the theft,\nnor are those acts recorded in the Bible for our imitation. We are to\nread Bible history as we read Xenophon, Tacitus, and Herodotus, and, in\nmodern times, Hume, Gibbon and Bancroft, with this distinction--when we\ntake down Herodotus, Tacitus, or others I have not mentioned, we are\nnot always sure that what we read is true, but we are sure that what is\nrecorded in the Bible is true, whether it be prophetic truth, mandatory\ntruth or historic truth. We should therefore make a distinction,\naccording to the kind of composition we are reading. If we are reading\nhistory, read it as history, and make a distinction between what is\nsimply recorded as part and parcel of the record of a great nation, or\npart and parcel of the record or biography of some eminent man, and\nthat which is recorded there for our imitation, for which we shall\nhave to give an account at God's bar. So take the poetry of the Bible.\nScriptural poetry is subject to the same rules as the poetry in Homer,\nVirgil, Milton or Young, with this exception--that the poetry of the\nBible is used to convey a grand thought, and there is no redundancy of\nthought or imagery in Bible poetry.\n\nWe come to biography, and to my mind it is a sublime fact, and one\nfor which I thank God, that the inspired writers were impartial in\nrecording biographical history. They recorded the virtues and the\nvices of men; they did not disguise the faults even of their eminent\nfriends, nor did they always stop to pronounce condemnation upon such;\nbut they recorded one and the other, just as they came along the stream\nof time. It is this book, therefore, that is my standard in this\ndiscussion, and it is composed of the Old and New Testament. The New\nTestament holds the relation to the Old Testament of a commentary, in\na prominent sense. Christ comes along and gives an exposition of the\nlaw of Moses; comes and gives an exposition of some of those grand\nprinciples which underlie Christianity: and then his references to the\nlaw of Moses simply prove this--that what Moses has said is true. Take\nhis exposition of the Ten Commandments, as they were given amid the\nthunders of Mount Sinai, and you find that he has written a commentary\non the Decalogue, bringing out its hidden meaning, showing to us that\nthe man is an adulterer who not only marries more women than one, but\nwho looks on a woman with salacial lust. Such is the commentary on the\nlaw, by the Lord Jesus Christ.\n\nNow does this book, the Old Testament and the New? Not what revelation\nhas been made to the Latter-day Saints; that is not to be brought\ninto this controversy; that is not the question in dispute. Whether\nJoseph Smith or any other member of the Church of Latter-day Saints\nhas had a revelation from God; whether the holy canon was closed by\nthe apocalyptic revelations to John on the Isle of Patmos--even that\nquestion is not to be dragged into this controversy. Neither the Mormon\nBible, nor the Book of Covenants, nor the revelations of yesterday or\nto-day, or any other day; but the grand question is, Does that old\nbook--read in old England, read in Wales, read in Ireland, read in\nNorway and Sweden, and read in this land of liberty--does that book\nsanction polygamy?\n\nWe now come to another important word--namely, does the Bible\nsanction? Sanction! By the term sanction we mean command, consequently\nthe authority of positive, written, divine law, or whatever may be\nreasonably held as equivalent to such law. It follows, therefore, that\ntoleration is not sanction. Sufferance is not sanction. Municipal\nlegislation is not sanction. An historical statement of prevailing\ncustoms is not sanction. A faithful narrative of the life and example\nof eminent men is not sanction. The remission of penalty is not\nsanction. A providential blessing, bestowed upon general principles,\nfor an ulterior purpose, is not sanction. The only adequate idea of\nsanction is the divine and positive approbation, plainly expressed,\neither in definite statute or by such forms of conformation as\nconstitute a full and clear equivalent. It is in this sense that we\ntake the term sanction in the question before us.\n\nThe next word in the question is, \"Does the Bible sanction Polygamy?\"\nBy which we mean, as it (the Bible) now stands. Not as it once was,\nbut as it now is; that is, the Bible taken as a whole. The question\nis not, Did the Bible formerly sanction Polygamy? But rather, Does\nit, at the present day, authorize and establish and approve it? Just\nas we may say of the Constitution of the United States, not, Did it\nsanction slavery? but, does it now sanction it? For it is a well known\nprinciple of jurisprudence that if any thing have been repealed in\nthe supreme law of the land, which that law once authorized, then it\nno longer sanctions the matter in question. It is so here, precisely;\nfor let us suppose for a moment that it could be proved that the\nBible once sanctioned polygamy, in the sense excepted, and that this\nsanction has never been withdrawn, then we are bound to admit that the\naffirmative has been sustained; but supposing, on the other hand, that\nthe Bible, as it is now, to-day, does not sanction polygamy, then we\nhave sustained the negative of the question.\n\nThere is another word, and one of importance, and that is the term\npolygamy. There are three words in this connection which should be\nreferred to. The first is polygamy, which is from the the Greek polus,\nand gamos, the former meaning \"many,\" and the latter \"marriage\" and\nsignifies a plurality of wives or husbands at the same time. When a\nman has more wives than one, or a woman more husbands than one, at\nthe same time, the offender is punishable for polygamy. Such is the\nfact in Christian countries. Polygamy is allowed in some countries,\nas in Turkey. Turn to Webster's Dictionary, page 844, and we shall\nfind the word \"polyandry,\" from polus, many and aner, man, meaning the\npractice of females having more husbands than one at the same time, or\na plurality of husbands. Then there is another word--polygyny, from\nthe Greek polus, and gune, woman or female, the practice of having\nmore wives than one at the same time. The word, therefore, to be used,\nis not polygamy, but polygyny, for polygamy signifies a man with more\nwives than one, or a woman with more husbands than one; and it seems\nto me that if a man can have more wives than one a woman has the same\nright to have more husbands than one. Then the true word is polygyny,\nand hereafter we will scout the word polygamy, and use the true word\npolygyny.\n\nThis question involves or supposes two systems of marriage: What is\ncommonly called polygamy and what is known as monogamy. On the one\nhand a man with more than one wife; and on the other, a man with only\none wife. You observe therefore that these are two systems essentially\nand radically different and distinct, the one from the other, and\nespecially so in this controversy. The material question to be decided\nis, which is the authorized system of marriage, polygamy, or a\nplurality of wives, or monogamy, or what it termed the one-wife system?\n\nLet us glance for a moment at some of the grand features of monogamy;\nand we shall thereby see the distinction between the two systems of\nmarriage. Take, for instance, the design of marriage, as originally\nestablished by the Almighty in the garden of Eden, in the time of man's\ninnocency. That design was three-fold: companionship, procreation and\nprevention. Companionship is first: the soul is more than the body.\nThe union of two loving hearts is more than the union of two bodies.\nEre Eve was created or she beheld the rosy sky or breathed its balmy\natmosphere, God said, \"It is not good that man should be alone; I will\nmake for him a helpmeet.\" The animals had passed in review before\nAdam; but neither among the doves that plumed their pinions in the air\nof Paradise; nor amid the fish of the deep, the beasts of the field,\nnor the reptiles of the earth could a companion be found for man.\nBut a special exertion of divine power had to be put forth that this\ncompanion should be made. And how was she made? A deep sleep is caused\nto come upon the first man. There lies Adam upon the ambrosial floor of\nParadise, and out of his side a rib is taken, and out of that rib woman\nwas created. And when some one asked old Martin Luther--\"Why did not\nGod Almighty make the woman out of some other bone of a man than out\nof a rib?\" The answer was: \"He did not make woman out of man's head,\nlest she should rule over him; He did not make her out of the bone of\nman's foot, lest he should trample upon her; but He made her out of his\nside, that she might be near his heart; from under his arm, that he\nmight protect her.\" The grand primary object of marriage, therefore, is\ncompanionship--the union of two loving hearts.\n\nThe next design is procreation. It has pleased Almighty God to people\nthe earth by the offspring coming from those united in marriage. This\nwas his wisdom: this was his plan. It is an old saying that history\nrepeats itself; and after the flood had swept away the antediluvians,\nand after that terrible storm had subsided, there, in the ark, was Noah\nand his sons and their wives--four men and four women. If Almighty\nGod sanctioned polygamy in the beginning, and intended to sanction it\nafterwards, why did not He save in the ark a dozen wives for Noah and\na dozen for each of his sons? But one wife for Noah, and one wife for\neach of his sons; and thus the Almighty repeats history.\n\nThe next design is prevention--namely to prevent the indiscriminate\nintercourse of the sexes. God loves chastity in man and in woman,\nand therefore he established marriage, it is a divine institution,\nlifting man above the brutes. He would not have man as the male of the\nbrute creation--mingling indiscriminately with the females; but he\nestablishes an institution holy as the angels--bearing upon its brow\nthe signet of His approval, and sanctioned by the good and great of all\nages. He establishes this institution that the lines may be drawn, and\nthat the chastity of male and female may be preserved.\n\nOn passing from this question of design, let us go to the consideration\nof the very nature of marriage. It is two-fold. It is an institution,\nnot a law; it is a state, not an act; something that has been\noriginated, framed, built up and crowned with glory. It is not an act\nof mere sexual intercourse, but it is a state to run parallel with the\nlife of the married pair, unless the bonds of marriage are sundered\nby one crime--that is adultery. Then consider the grand fact that\nthere are solemn obligations in this institution of marriage. Nay,\nmore than this, the very essential elements of marriage distinguish it\nin its monogamic, from the institution of marriage in its polygamic,\ncondition. There is choice, preference of one man for one woman, and\nwhen we come to the question of the census that will demonstrate it\nclear as the sunlight; when we come to that question we will prove the\nequality of the sexes; we will prove that there is not an excess of\nmarriageable women either in this or any other country. Therefore the\ngrand advice of Paul: \"Let every man have his own wife, and every woman\nhave her own husband.\"\n\nNow, if the equality of the sexes be a fact, and every man is to\nhave his own wife, and every woman her own husband, then I say that\nthis great idea of choice is fully sustained, of preference on the\npart of a man, and also preference on the part of woman. And around\nthis institution God has thrown guards to protect it; indeed, he has\nsurrounded it with muniments which seem to be as high as heaven; and\nwhenever the obligations, or so long as the obligations of marriage\nare observed, then these defenses stand impregnable and the gates of\nhell shall not prevail against marriage. First, there is its innocency:\nthe union of a man with his wife, is an act as pure as the devotion\nof angels in heaven. Then comes the nobleness of marriage: the bed\nundefined is honorable in all; but whoremongers and adulterers will God\njudge. Then notice the sanction of divine and human law that surrounds\nthis institution; the law that was given amid the awful thunderings\nof Mount Sinai is a grand muniment of this monogamic institution. In\nall civilized Christian countries civil legislation has extended the\narm of the law to protect marriage. Then recall the affinities of the\nsexes; the natural desire of man for woman; and the natural desire of\nwoman for man. There may be some exceptions. Now and then we find an\nold bachelor in the world; but a man without a wife is only half a man.\nNow and then we find a woman in the world who is styled an \"old maid;\"\nbut a woman without a husband is only half a humanity. Adam, in the\nbeginning, was a perfect humanity, possessing the strength, dignity and\ncourage of man, with the grace, gentleness and beauty of woman. After\nEve's creation he retained the strength, dignity and courage; but lost,\nwith Eve, the grace, beauty and gentleness; so that it now takes the\nunion of one man, with the sterner qualities, with one woman, with the\ngentler graces, to produce one perfect humanity, and that is the type\nof marriage, as instituted by Almighty God, and as is approved by His\ndivine law.\n\nAnd, now, I desire to run the parallel between the two systems,\nshowing how the one is destructive of the other. Take, for instance,\nthe element, namely, the design, and see how polygamy strikes at the\ninstitution of marriage in that regard. I now refer to companionship,\nthe union of two loving hearts to the exclusion of a third. A man may\nlove three or more friends; he may love three or more children; he may\nlove three or more brothers or sisters; but God has so ordained the law\nof affinities between the man and the woman that companionship can only\nbe secured to the exclusion of a third person. Ah! what a pleasure it\nis for a man when away from home to know, \"I shall soon return to the\nbosom of my wife, and my little children will climb upon my knee and\nlisp the child's welcome at my return.\" And he hastens from afar to\nthe embraces of that wife. And then what an almost infinity of joy it\nis on the part of the woman, whose husband is far away, to know that\nhe is coming. Says she, \"I will stand in the door-way and will watch\nhis returning footsteps. He is coming to me, to my embrace, to my home\nprepared for him!\" And with what pride and care the busy housewife\narranges for his return! How neat and beautiful everything is! The\nbouquet of flowers is on the table, the best viands are spread on the\nboard, and everything in the house is prepared with the utmost care!\nBut oh! what a gloom comes down upon the poor woman's soul when she\nknows that he returns not to her, but returns to one, two, three, four,\ntwelve, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty.\n\nThen see how the system works against the next design--namely,\nprocreation. It is a fact that in polygamous countries one sex or\nthe other has preponderance in numbers. Some good authorities say\nthe females preponderate, others say the males. I do not know, I do\nnot care a rush which preponderates: all that I say is this, that\ngood, reliable authorities say that in polygamic--mark you, polygamic\ncountries, there is a preponderance of one or the other; while in\nmonogamic nations the great law of equality is brought out. According\nto some authorities the tendency of polygamy is to make all males;\naccording to other authorities to make all females; and if either\nfollow, then comes the destruction of the race, and within a hundred\nyears the earth is depopulated and is a howling wilderness.\n\nTake the influence of polygamy upon what may be properly called the\nrights of marriage, and these rights are two-fold:--authority on the\npart of the man, and protection on the part of the woman. The man is\nthe head of the family; the man is the high priest of the family;\nthe man is the legislator and executive of the family. He is to have\nreverence from his wife; she is to obey him; and I never performed the\nmarriage ceremony without including that word when I address the woman,\n\"Wilt thou obey the man?\" That is God's authority, and every true and\nloving wife will obey her husband in the Lord as readily as she obeys\nthe Lord Jesus Christ. But while man is the legislator and executive;\nwhile he is endowed with authority as his right, so, on the other hand,\nprotection belongs to and is the natural and inalienable right of the\nwoman. See that ivy as it entwines around the oak! That grand old oak\nhas sent down its roots and takes hold of the very foundations of the\nearth, and its branches tower up towards the sky. See that ivy how it\nentwines itself gently, sweetly and beautifully around the oak?\n\n \"A thing of beauty is a Joy forever.\"\n\nSo woman entwines herself, the tendrils of her affection go out and\nthey entwine themselves around the man; and what must be the depth\nof the depravity to which that man has fallen who ruthlessly tears\nasunder these gentle tendrils of affection! What the ivy is to the\noak, the woman is to the man; and it is for man, in his pride and\nglory, in his strength and energy, with his strong arm to protect\nher; and it is woman's right to go to man for protection. But how is\nit possible under the system of polygamy for these great rights to be\npreserved? It is true that the man retains his right and authority;\nthis system augments and multiplies that authority. This system is\none of usurpation, extending a right over the larger number that is\nnot included in God's law. But, on the other hand, where is the right\nof woman to protection? A whole soul for a whole soul! A whole body\nfor a whole body, and a whole life for a whole life! Just like the\nshells of the bivalve; they correspond with each other! Just like the\ntwo wings of a bird, male and female. So precisely this great idea of\nreciprocity, mutual affection and reciprocal love is developed in this\nidea of monogamous marriage. But polygamy, it seems to me, strikes down\nthis right of woman; in other words, it divides the protecting power\nof man in proportion to the number of wives he possesses; and it seems\nto me that in view of the distribution of worldly goods in this life a\nman can support and protect but one family. Kings, who can tax a whole\npeople; kings, who can build palaces and rear pyramids; kings, who can\nmarshal their armies on the banks of the Rhine and go to war, may have\ntheir harems--their plurality of wives; but the poor man, doomed to\ntoil, with the sweat of labor on his brow, how is it possible for him\nto provide for more than one family? Yet if the king in his glory has\nthe right to have a plurality of wives, so also has the poor man, who\nis doomed to toil, the same right; and God Almighty, in making this\nlaw for a plurality of wives, if He has made it, which I, of course,\nquestion, yet, if He has made it, then He has not made provision\nfor the execution of that law; or, in other words, He has not made\nprovision for its immunities to be enjoyed by the common people. It is\na law exclusively for nabobs, kings and high priests; for men in power,\nfor men possessing wealth, and not for me, a poor man, or for you,\n[pointing to audience] a poor laborer. God Almighty is just, and a king\nis no more before him than a peasant. The meanest of His creatures,\nas well as the highest, are all alike unto Him. I ask you, therefore,\nto-day, Would He enact a law sanctioning--commanding a plurality of\nwives, without making a provision that every man should be in such\nfinancial circumstances as to have a plurality of wives and enjoy them?\nSee, therefore, how these two systems of marriage are antagonistic one\nagainst the other! And, after hearing this exposition of the nature and\nthe elements and the rights and the muniments of marriage, it is for\nyou to infer which is the system which God ordained in the beginning.\n\nMy distinguished friend has hastily reviewed many passages of\nScripture, all of which, my friends, I shall notice. I will sift\nthem to the bottom. My only regret is that my distinguished friend,\nfor whose scholarship I have regard, did not deliberately take up\none passage and exhaust that passage, instead of giving us here a\npassage and there a passage, simply skimming them over without going\nto the depths, and showing their philological relation and their\nentire practical bearing upon us. When my friend shall give us such\nan exegesis and analysis, whether he quotes Hebrew, Greek or Latin, I\nwill promise him that I will follow him through all the mazes of his\nexposition and I will go down to the very bottom of his argument.\n\nI feel bound, to-day, my friends, in my opening speech to give this\nanalysis of the question and to present to you my ideas of marriage in\ncontradistinction to the idea of marriage held here as polygamous.\n\nNow I presume that I will pass to the consideration of a few of the\nsalient points which my distinguished friend threw out.\n\nLet us see in relation to the text he quoted, \"If brethren dwell\ntogether,\" though he wanders back, and it was difficult for me to see\nwhat relation the antediluvians, and what relation old Adam had to\nthis passage; but he referred to the antediluvians and to Adam, and he\nalso referred to Lamech. Who was Lamech? He is the first polygamist\non record, the first mentioned in the first two hundred years of the\nhistory of the world. He had two wives; and what else did he have?\nHe had murder in his heart and blood on his hand, and I aver that\nwhoever analyzes the case of Lamech, will find that the murder which he\ncommitted grew out of his plurality of wives; in other words, it grew\nout of the polygamy which he attempted to introduce into the world.\nSaid he to his wives, \"I have slain a man;\" and the inference is that\nthis man had come to claim his rights.\n\nMy friend says that Cain was a murderer, and went down to the land of\nNod; he don't exactly know the geography, but it was somewhere. And\nthere he found a woman and married her. Now I affirm this, that when\nCain killed his brother Abel he was not married, and he didn't go down\nto the land of Nod, then, therefore the murder he committed didn't\ngrow out of monogamy, and seems to have had no relation to monogamy;\nbut it grew out of this fact: these two brothers came before the Lord\nto present their offerings. Cain was a deist, a moralist as we may\nsay, that is, he had no sins to repent of. He therefore did not bring\nthe little lamb as a sacrificial offering, but he came with the first\nfruits of the earth as a thank offering. He comes before God Almighty\nand says: \"I have no sins to atone for, none at all; but here, I am\nconscious that thou hast created me and that I am dependent upon thee,\ntherefore I present to thee the first fruits of the soil.\" Abel comes\nwith his thank offering. He brings his lamb and lays it upon the altar,\nand that lamb pre-intimated the coming of Jesus Christ, who is \"the\nlamb of God that taketh away the sins of the world;\" and if there is\nany record that Abel brought a thank offering, it is a principle in\ntheology and in scriptural exposition that the whole includes the\npart, just as Saint Paul says: \"I beseech you, by the mercies of God,\nto present your bodies a living sacrifice to God.\" Do you think that\nhe excluded the soul? No, he speaks of one as including the other. So\nthe offering which Abel presented was an offering, sacrificial in its\nnature, pointing to Christ. Now, perhaps by sending down fire from\nheaven, or at all events in some significant manner, God recognized the\nrighteousness of Abel, and expressed a preference for his offering, and\nCain was wroth, and his pride belched forth and he slew his brother.\nThe murder, therefore, had no reference, directly or indirectly, to\nmarriage, while the murder which the first polygamist mentioned in\nhistory committed grew out of the marriage relation.\n\nThen my friend goes back to Adam, and says our first parents wore\nclothes made of skins, and therefore we must wear similar ones. Well,\nlet us see. Our first parents were placed in a garden and were driven\nout of a garden, therefore we must be placed in a garden and driven\nout of a garden. The first man was created out of the dust of the\nearth, therefore all subsequent men must be created out of the same\nmaterial. The first woman was created out of man's rib, therefore all\nsubsequent women must be made so. They would make very nice women, no\ndoubt about that! Such is the logic of my friend! So you may follow on\nhis absurdities. He has failed to make a distinction between what is\nessential to marriage and what is accidental to marriage; or in other\nwords, he has failed to make a distinction between the creation and\nthe fall of man, and between the institution and characteristics of\nmarriage. One, therefore, is surprised at such arguments, and drawn\nfrom such premises!\n\nNow, my friends, that first marriage in the garden of Eden is the great\nmodel for all subsequent marriages: one man and one woman. My friend\nsays that God could have made more if He had chosen; but He did not\ndo so, and it seems to me, if God Almighty had designed that all us\nmen should be polygamists, and that polygamy should be the form of\nmarriage, that in the very beginning He would have started right, that\nis, He would have made a number of women for the first man. Ah! what a\ngrand sanction that would be; but instead of that He makes one man and\none woman, and says--\"For this cause shall a man leave his father and\nmother and cleave unto his wife, and they shall be one flesh.\"\n\nThis is not merely an historical fact; were it so I think the argument\nwould be with my friend. But as I come along the stream of time I find\nthis fact referred to as expressing a great law. I hear old Malachi\nrepeating the same words, referring to this institution of marriage\nin the garden of Eden, reproving the Jews for their practice of\npolygamy, putting the pungent question to their conscience--\"Why have\nye dealt treacherously with the wife of your youth?\"--your first wife,\nthe one with whom you went to the bridal altar and swore before high\nHeaven that you would forsake all others and cleave unto her so long\nas you both live. \"Ah!\" that old prophet asks, \"why have you dealt\nthus treacherously with the wife of your youth and the wife of your\ncovenant?\" God hates this putting away, says the prophet, and then\nhe refers to Eden as a reason for his reproof. The reason is purely\nmonogamous, and that in the beginning God created one woman for one\nman, and one man for one woman.\n\nWhen the Pharisees propounded a question to the Lord Jesus Christ,\ntouching divorce, he refers to the same grand idea spoken of by the\nProphet Malachi: \"Have ye not read that in the beginning God created\nthem male and female?\" Thus re-enacting, as it were, the marriage law;\nthus lifting marriage, which had been stained by polygamy, from its\ndegradation, and re-establishing it in its monogamic purity. And then\nSt. Paul, corroborating the words of Jesus, [at this time the umpires\nsaid the time was up] refers to the marriage in Eden, and says, \"God\ncreated them, male and female, one flesh.\" This is the great truth\nbrought out in the Bible.\n\n\n\nSECOND DAY.\n\nAfter opening with religious exercises Prof. Pratt commenced:\n\nLadies and Gentlemen:\n\nWe again come before you this afternoon, being the second session of\nour discussion, to examine the question: \"Does the Bible Sanction\nPolygamy?\" I will here remark, that yesterday afternoon I occupied one\nhour upon the subject, and brought forth numerous evidences from the\nBible to show that polygamy was a divine institution sanctioned by the\nBible, and sanctioned by the Almighty, who gave the laws contained in\nthe Bible. Here let me observe that it is of the utmost importance to\nclearly understand the point under discussion. I perceive that in the\narguments that followed me yesterday the subject is dwelt upon somewhat\nlengthily with regard to the meaning of the term polygamy--that it\nincluded both a plurality of wives and a plurality of husbands. Hence a\nnew term was introduced by the reverend Doctor, who followed me, namely\npolygyny, if I recollect the term, having reference to the plurality of\nwives. This seems to be the question under discussion: Does the Bible\nSanction Polygamy? and as the word polygamy appears to be discarded\nand scouted, it would be: Does the Bible Sanction Polygyny? Perhaps\nI may not have the term aright; that is, Does the Bible sanction\nplurality of wives? It was was said by the speaker who followed me,\nin relation to the plurality of wives--perhaps I had better refer to\nsome of his remarks from print, lest my memory should not serve me on\nthe occasion. The first remark to which I will call your attention is\nin regard to the original of the Bible. I admit in this discussion the\nBible called King James' translation as authority. I admit the Bible\nin the original Hebrew, if it can be found. Of course we have Hebrew\nBibles at the present day. I hold one in my hand; that is, a Bible in\nthe Hebrew language. But there is no such thing in existence as the\noriginal copies of the Bible; neither secondary copies; and copies that\nmight come in as the hundreth copy, I presume, cannot be found, as, for\ninstance, of the original law of Moses, written on tables of stone.\nSuch tables and such original law have not been in existence to our\nknowledge for the last eighteen hundred years. We cannot refer to them;\nwe cannot refer to any copies only those that have been multiplied in\nmodern times--that is, comparatively modern times. And inasmuch as\nthese copies disagree one with the other, so much so that it is said\nthere are thirty thousand different readings in the various manuscripts\nand copies, who is to decide whether this Hebrew Bible, translated\nfrom one of a number of manuscripts, is translated from the original\nor not? Certainly it would not do for me as an individual to set up my\njudgment in the matter; nor for any other learned man to set up his\njudgment. I would far rather take the translation known as King James',\nmade by the able translators chosen in his day; men of great learning,\nwho had studied the original languages, the Hebrew and the Greek, and\nhad become extensively acquainted with manuscripts in existence; I say\nI would far rather take their judgment than one that might be advanced\nby myself, or by any other learned man, however deeply he might be\nversed in the Hebrew or Greek. I do not by these remarks disparage the\nBible, or set it aside. By no means. I accept it as proof that it was\ntranslated by those men who were chosen for the purpose. And hundreds\nof thousands, I may say scores of millions, of copies of this Bible\nhave been circulated among all nations in various languages. They have\nbeen sent forth by millions among the inhabitants of the earth for\ntheir information.\n\nWe will pass along after having decided upon the nature of the Bible\nthat is to be admitted as evidence and proof in regard to polygamy.\nIt was stated in the course of the remarks of the reverend gentleman\nin relation to polygamy, or polygyny, whichever term we feel disposed\nto choose, that marriage with more than one woman is considered\nadultery. I will read one or two of Mr. Newman's sentences: \"Take his\nexposition\"--that is the Savior's--\"Take his exposition of the ten\ncommandments as they were given amid the thunders of Mount Sinai, and\nyou find he has written a commentary on the Decalogue, bringing out its\nhidden meaning, showing to us that the man is an adulterer who not only\nmarries more women than one, but who looks on a woman with salacial\nlust. Such is the commentary on the law by the Lord Jesus Christ.\"\n\nWith part of this I agree most perfectly. If a man, according to the\ngreat commentary of our Savior, looks upon a woman with a lustful heart\nand lustful desire, he commits adultery in his heart, and is condemned\nas an adulterer. With the other part I do most distinctly disagree. It\nis merely an assertion of the reverend gentleman. No proof was adduced\nfrom the New Testament Scriptures; no proof was advanced as the words\nof the great commentator, the Lord Jesus Christ, to establish the\nposition that a man who marries more than one woman is an adulterer. If\nthere is such a passage contained within the lids of the New Testament,\nit has not come under my observation. It remains to be proved,\ntherefore.\n\nWe will now pass on to another item, that is, the meaning of the word\n\"sanction:\" \"Does the Bible sanction polygamy?\" I am willing to admit\nthe full force and meaning of the word sanction. I am willing to take\nit in all of its expositions as set forth in Webster's unabridged\nedition. I do not feel like shirking from this, nor from the definition\ngiven. Let it stand in all its force. The only adequate idea of\nsanction, says Mr. Newman, is a divine and positive approbation,\nplainly expressed; or stated so definitely and by such forms of\nexpression as to make a full and clear equivalent. It is in this way\nthat we take the term sanction in the question before us. Admit that\nit must be expressed in definite terms, these terms were laid before\nthe congregation yesterday afternoon. From this Bible, King James'\ntranslation, passage after passage was brought forth to prove the\ndivine sanction of polygamy; direct commands in several instances,\nwherein the Israelites were required to be polygamists; and in one\ninstance, especially, where they were required under the heaviest curse\nof the Lord: \"Cursed be he that continueth not in all things written\nin this book of the law; and let all the people say Amen,\" was the\nexpression. I say, under this dreadful curse and the denunciations of\nthe Almighty, the people were commanded to be polygamists. Did this\ngive authority and sanction to practise that divine institution? It\ncertainly is sanction, or I do not understand the meaning of the word\nas defined by Webster, and the meaning of the arguments presented by\nmy opponent. I waited in vain yesterday afternoon for any rebutting\nevidence and testimony against this divine sanction. I was ready\nwith my pencil and paper to record anything like such evidence, any\npassage from the Bible to prove that it was not sanctioned. I heard\na remarkable sermon, a wonderful flourish of oratory. It certainly\nwas pleasing to my ears. It fell upon me like the dews of heaven, as\nit were, so far as oratorical power was concerned. But where was the\nrebutting testimony? What was the evidence brought forth? Forty-nine\nminutes of the time were occupied before it was even referred to;\nforty-nine minutes passed away in a flourish of oratory, without\nhaving the proofs in rebuttal and the evidence examined which I had\nadduced. Then eleven minutes were left. I did expect to hear something\nin those eleven minutes that would in some small degree rebut the\nnumerous evidences brought forth to establish and sanction polygamy.\nBut I waited in vain. To be sure, one passage, and only one that had\nbeen cited, in Deuteronomy, was merely referred to; and then, without\nexamining the passage and trying to show that it did not command\npolygamy, another item that was referred to by myself with regard to\nLamech and Cain was brought up. Instead of an examination of that\npassage, until the close of the eleven minutes, the subject of Abel's\nsacrifice and Cain's sacrifice, and Cain's going to the Land of Nod\nand marrying a wife, and so on, occupied the time. All these things\nwere examined, and those testimonies that were brought forth by me were\nuntouched.\n\nNow, then, we will proceed to the fourth, or rather to the fifth\nposition he took; that is the first great form of marriage established\nin the beginning--\"one woman created for one man.\" However, before I\ndwell upon this subject, let me make a correction with regard to Cain\nand Lamech; then we will commence on this argument. I did not state\nyesterday afternoon, as it was represented by the speaker who followed\nme, that Cain went to the land of Nod and there married a wife, for\nthere is no such thing in the Bible. I stated that Cain went to the\nland of Nod, after having murdered his brother Abel. I stated that we\nwere not to suppose that God had created any woman in the Land of Nod,\nand that Cain took his wife in the land of Nod. We are not to suppose\nthis; but we are to suppose that he took his wife with him. He went to\nand arrived in the land of Nod, and begat a child. So says the Bible.\nBut what has all this to do with regard to the form of marriage? Does\nit prove anything? No. The murder that Cain committed in slaying his\nbrother Abel does not prove anything against the monogamic form of\nmarriage, nor anything in favor of it. It stands as an isolated fact,\nshowing that a wicked man may be a monogamist. How in regard to Lamech?\nLamech, so far as recorded in the Bible, was the first polygamist; the\nfirst on record. There may have been thousands and tens of thousands\nwho were not recorded. There were thousands and tens of thousands of\nmonogamists, yet, I believe, we have only three cases recorded from\nthe creation to the flood, a period of some sixteen hundred years or\nupwards. The silence of Scripture, therefore, in regard to the number\ncf polygamists in that day, is no evidence whatever.\n\nBut it has been asserted before this congregation that this first case\nrecorded of a polygamist brought in connection with it a murder; and\nit has been indicated or inferred that the murder so committed was\nin defence of polygamy. This I deny; and I call upon the gentleman\nto bring forth one proof from that Bible, from the beginning to the\nend of it, to prove that murder had anything to do in relation to the\npolygamic form of marriage of Lamech. It is true he revealed his crime\nto his wives, but the cause of the crime is not stated in the book.\nWhat, then, had it to do with the divinity of the great institution\nestablished called polygamy? Nothing at all. It does not condemn\npolygamy nor justify it, any more than the murder by Cain does not\ncondemn the other form of marriage nor justify it.\n\nHaving disposed of these two cases, let me come to the first\nmonogamist, Adam. Let us examine his character, and the character of\nhis wife. Lamech \"slew a young man to his wounding, a young man to his\nhurt.\" That was killing one, was it not? How many did Adam kill? All\nmankind; murdered the whole human race! How? by falling in the garden\nof Eden. Would mankind have died if it had not been for the sin of\nthis monogamist? No. Paul says \"that as in Adam all die, so in Christ\nshall all be made alive.\" It was by the transgression of this first\nmonogamist and his monogamic wife, that all mankind have to undergo\nthe penalty of death. It was the cause, and I presume it will be\nacknowledged on the part even of monogamists that it was a great crime.\nWhat can be compared with it? Was Cain's crime, or Lamech's crime to\nbe compared with the crime of bringing death and destruction, not only\nupon the people of the early ages, but upon the whole human race?\nBut what has all that to do with regard to the divinity of marriage?\nNothing at all. It does not prove one thing or the other. But when\narguments of this kind are entered into by the opponents of polygamy,\nit is well enough to examine them and see if they will stand the test\nof scripture, and sound reason, of sound argument and sound judgment.\nMoreover, Adam was not only guilty of bringing death and destruction\nupon the whole human race, but he was the means of introducing fallen\nhumanity into this world of ours. Why did Cain slay Abel? Because he\nwas a descendant of that fallen being. He had come forth from the loins\nof the man who had brought death into the world. When we look abroad\nand see all the various crimes, as well as murder, that exist on the\nface of the globe; when we see mankind committing them; see all manner\nof degradation and lust; see the human family destroying one another,\nthe question might arise, What has produced all these evils among men?\nThey exist because a monogamic couple transgressed the law of heaven.\n\nThe learned gentleman referred us to a saying of that great man, Martin\nLuther, concerning the relationship that exists between husband and\nwife. It was a beautiful argument. I have no fault whatever to find\nwith it. And it is just as applicable to polygamy as to monogamy. The\nanswer of Martin Luther to the question put to him--Why God took the\nfemale from the side of man, is just as appropriate, just as consistent\nwith the plural form of marriage as it is with the other form. He did\nnot take the woman from the head. Why? The argument wad that the man\nshould be the head, or as Paul says--\"Man is the head of the woman,\"\nand that is his position. I believe my learned opponent agrees with me\nperfectly in this, so there is no dispute upon this ground. Why did not\nHe take the woman from the foot? Because man is not to tyrannize over\nhis wife, nor tread her under foot. Why did He take her from his side?\nBecause the rib lies nearest the heart, showing the position of woman.\nNot only one woman but two women, five women, ten women, twenty women,\nforty women, fifty women, may all come under the protecting head. Jesus\nsays: \"No man can serve two masters,\" because he may love the one and\nhate the other, cleave unto the one and turn away from the other; but\nit is not so with women under the protecting head.\n\nNow let us examine polyandry, for that was referred to yesterday; and\nthe reverend gentleman could not see why, if a man has the privilege of\ntaking more wives than one, a woman should not have the same privilege.\nIf that is expressed in the Bible we have not found it; the other is\nexpressed there, and we have proved it, and call upon the reverend\ngentleman to show the opposite. When we come to polyandry, or the woman\nhaving more husbands than one, there is no sanction for it in the\nScriptures. What is the object of marriage? Companionship, we are told.\nI agree with the gentleman. Another object he says is procreation.\nI agree with the gentleman also in the second object. Another was\nprevention. Here I agree with him so far as the argument is carried out\nin a true light. Let us examine the second, namely procreation. The\nLord instituted marriage--the sacred bond of marriage--for the purpose\nof multiplying the human species here on the earth. Does polyandry\nassist in the multiplying of the human species, the woman having four,\nor five, or ten, or fifty, or sixty husbands? Does it tend to rapidly\nincrease the race? I think monogamists as well as polygamists, when\nthey reflect, will say that a woman having more than one husband\nwould destroy her own fruitfulness. Even if she did have offspring,\nthere would be another great difficulty in the way, the father would\nbe unknown. Would it not be so? All knowledge of the father would be\nlost among the children. Is this the case with a plurality of wives?\nNo, by no means. If a man have fifty wives the knowledge of the father\nis as distinct as the knowledge of the mother. It is not destroyed,\ntherefore. The great principle of parentage on the part of the\nhusband, on the part of the father, is preserved. Therefore it is more\nconsistent, more reasonable, first for procreation, and secondly for\nobtaining a knowledge of parentage, that a man should have a plurality\nof wives than that a woman should have a plurality of husbands.\n\nAgain; a man with a plurality of wives is capable of raising up a\nvery numerous household. You know what the Scriptures have said about\nchildren: \"Children are the heritage of the Lord, and the fruit of the\nwomb is his reward.\" This being the case, a faithful, righteous, holy\nman, who takes, according to the great, divine institution of polygamy,\na plurality of wives, is capable of multiplying his offspring ten or\ntwenty-fold more than he could by one wife. Can one wife do this by\npolyandry? No. Here then is a great distinction between the male and\nthe female. Look at that great and good and holy man, called Gideon\nin the Scriptures; a man to whom the angel of God was sent, and who,\namong all the hosts of Israel was chosen to go forth as the servant\nof the Most High. For what purpose? To deliver Israel from their\nenemies, the Midianites and others that had gathered against them.\nWas he a polygamist? Yes. He had many wives. He had seventy-two sons.\nHow many daughters he had I do not know. Could any woman in polyandry\nconceive or bring forth seventy-two sons and perhaps an equal number of\ndaughters? I do not know but there might be some efficacy in that herb\ncalled \"mandrake,\" or in some other miraculous herb that would give\npower and strength for one woman to bring forth seventy-two sons. Who\nknows, in a day of wonders like this! But a man has the ability, a man\nhas the power to beget large families and large households. Hence we\nread of many of the great and notable men who judged Israel, that one\nman had thirty sons--his name was Jair; you will find it recorded in\nthe Judges of Israel; and another had thirty sons and thirty daughters;\nwhile another Judge of Israel had forty sons. And when we come to the\nGideon we have named, he had seventy-two. Now, we have nothing to do\nwith the righteousness of these men, or their unrighteousness, in this\nconnection. That has nothing to do with the marriage institution.\nGod has established it by divine command. God has given it his own\nsanction, whether it be the polygamic or the monogamic form. If Gideon\nafterwards fell into idolatry, as the reverend gentleman may argue,\nthat has nothing to do with the matter. He had the power to beget\nseventy-two sons, showing he had a superior power to that of the female.\n\nRight here, I may say, God is a consistent Being; a Being who is\nperfectly consistent, and who delights in the salvation of the human\nfamily. A wicked man may take unto himself a wife, and raise unto\nhimself a posterity. He may set before that wife and her posterity a\nvery wicked example. He may lead those children by his drunkenness, by\nhis blasphemy, by his immoralities, down to destruction. A righteous\nman may take fifty wives, or ten, as you choose; and he will bring\nup his children in the nurture and admonition of the Lord; he will\ninstruct them in the great principles of righteousness and truth,\nand lead them along and bring them up by his example and by his\nteachings to inherit eternal life at the right hand of God, with\nthose polygamists of ancient times, Abraham and Jacob of old, who are\nup yonder in the kingdom of God. Which of the two is the Lord most\npleased with? The man who has five, or ten, or twenty wives, bringing\nup his children, teaching them, instructing them, training them so\nthat they may obtain eternal life with the righteous in the Kingdom\nof God; or the monogamist that brings up his children in all manner\nof wickedness, and finally leads them down to hell? Which would you\nprefer with your limited wisdom when compared with that of the great\nCreator? Who among you would not prefer to entrust your offspring with\nyour friends instead of your enemies? Would not God, therefore, upon\nthe same principle, do the same? Does God delight in the marriages that\nexist among the wicked? Go to the antediluvian race. They married and\nwere given in marriage until the day that Noah entered into the ark.\nThey were not righteous men nor righteous women; and their children\nwere taught in the wicked precepts of their fathers, who committed all\nmanner of wickedness until all flesh had corrupted itself before the\nLord. Therefore the Lord had to destroy those evil workers of iniquity\nthat had received wives, but did not honor nor regard the Lord. Instead\nof those marriages consummated before the flood, the marriages and\nintermarriages among the sons of God and the daughters of men, being\nacceptable to the Most High, He was obliged to destroy those that were\nmarried and their offspring from the face of the earth. How much better\nit would have been had they been righteous polygamists who would have\nbrought forth a pure offspring that the Lord could have exalted to\neternal life. Consequently, when we examine the subject of polygamy\nin regard to this matter, we must acknowledge, from these scriptures,\nand from various other testimonies, that the marriages of the wicked\nare not approved by the Heavens. There are many passages of scripture\nto support me in what I have now said. The Lord in one place commands\nthe destruction of a people, parents and children, \"lest they should\nfill the world with cities,\" lest all the world should be filled with\npeople who had married contrary to His law. No person can pretend that\na marriage consummated between an unrighteous man and an unrighteous\nwoman, is a marriage in which God has joined the parties together. You\nmight as well take the ordinance of baptism, and say that Simon Magus,\nwhen he went forward and was baptized, had complied with the ordinance\nof Heaven, while he yet remained in a condition of hardened sinfulness;\nand that because he had passed through the outward observance of the\nordinance it was acceptable in the sight of Heaven. God never had\nanything to do with the marriages of the wicked only to permit them,\nperhaps for a wise purpose, as he permitted Joseph to be sold into\nEgypt by his brethren. He permitted the deed for his own wise purposes,\nbut He did not justify the instruments who did the deed. So he permits\nthese unauthorized marriages between wicked men and wicked women, to\nperpetuate the human race, because they will not hearken to Him, until\nthe time shall come when he can have a pure people who will obey his\nlaws, educating their posterity to honor and serve him. He permits, but\nHe does not sanction such marriages.\n\nIf we should argue with the reverend gentleman that the census shows an\nequality of males and females, this argument that I have now advanced\nwill rebut the idea thus sought to be established. The idea is that\nbecause there may be made to appear an equality in numbers, therefore,\nevery man must be confined to one wife and every woman must have one\nhusband. Is that the way God dispenses his gifts and blessings to the\nhuman family? Does he give the same amount of blessings to the wicked\nthat He does to the righteous? In some respects He does. He sends the\nrain from heaven upon the just and the unjust. But there are many\ngreat and important blessings that are bestowed more abundantly upon\nthe righteous than upon the wicked. God has holy designs to accomplish\nwhen He makes a distinction between the righteous and the wicked in\ndispensing His blessings. Therefore if the wicked take wives without\ntheir being joined together by divine authority, those wives have\nallied themselves to their husbands without the Lord's sanction.\nBecause the Lord permits this it does not prove that He sanctions\nit; and He would prefer that a people should be like Israel of old,\na nation of polygamists as well as monogamists, and the blessings\nbe dispensed between them, rather than have this so-called perfect\nequality between the males and females, and a wicked generation be\nthe result. To prove this I will refer you to the 37th Psalm. God in\nthat Psalm has expressly said, and repeated again and again, that\nthe seed of the evil-doers should he rooted out of the earth, while\nthe righteous should inherit it and should prosper. He bestows His\nblessings upon the one and His curses upon the other.\n\nI shall expect this afternoon to hear some arguments to refute those\npassages brought forward to sustain polygamy as well as monogamy; and\nif the gentleman can find no proof to limit the passages I have quoted\nto monogamic households, if there is no such evidence contained in the\npassages, and there is nothing in the original Hebrew as it now exists\nto invalidate them, then polygamy as a divine institution stands as\nfirm as the throne of the Almighty. And if he can find that this form\nof marriage is repealed in the New Testament; if he can find that God\nhas in any age of the world done away with the principle and form of\nplural marriage, perhaps the argument will rest with the other side.\nI shall wait with great patience to have some arguments brought forth\non this subject. We are happy, here in this Territory, to have the\nlearned come among us to teach us. We have embraced the Bible as a\nrule of faith; and if we misunderstand it, if we are acting contrary\nto its precepts, how very happy we should be to have the learned come\nfrom abroad--people who are acquainted with the original languages--to\ncorrect us and set us right. I think this is generous on the part\nof those gentlemen; much more so than it would be to enact laws and\nincarcerate in dungeons those who practice a form of marriage laid down\nin this book; to send them for three, or four, or five years to prison,\ntearing them from their poor wives and children, while their families\nwould suffer hardship and hunger, being robbed of their natural\nprotectors. We thank Mr. Newman and those who have come with him with\ntheir hearts full of philanthropy to enlighten us here in this mountain\nTerritory, and if possible convince us of our errors.\n\nI have many arguments that I have not drawn upon, not only to reason\nupon, but testimonies as well in favor of polygamy; but I am informed\nthat only seven minutes of the time remains to me. I cannot, therefore,\npretend on this occasion to enter into these arguments and examine\nthem with that justice that should be expected before the people. Mr.\nNewman has said he would like nine hours to bring forth his arguments\nand his reasonings for the benefit of the poor people of Utah. I wish\nhe would not only take nine hours, but nine weeks and nine months, and\nbe indeed a philanthropist and missionary in our midst; and try and\nreclaim this poor people from being the \"awful beastly\" people they are\nrepresented abroad. We are very fond of the Scriptures. We do not feel\nfree to comply with a great many customs and characteristics of a great\nmany of those who call themselves Christians. Much may be said upon\nthis subject; much, too, that ought to crimson the faces of those who\ncall themselves civilized, when they reflect upon the enormities, the\ngreat social evils, that exist in their midst. Look at the great city\nof New York, the great metropolis of commerce. That is a city where we\nmight expect some of the most powerful, and learned theologians to hold\nforth, teaching and inculcating principles and lessons of Christianity.\nWhat exists in the midst of that city? Females by the tens of\nthousands, females who are debauched by day and by night; females who\nare in open day parading the streets of that great city! Why, they are\nmonogamists there! It is a portion of the civilization of New York\nto be very pious over polygamy; yet harlots and mistresses by the\nthousands and tens of thousands walk the streets by open day, as well\nas by night. There is sin enough committed there in one twenty-four\nhours to sink the city down like Sodom and Gomorrah.\n\nWe read that there was once a case of prostitution among the children\nof Benjamin in ancient days. Some men came and took another man's wife,\nor concubine, whichever you please to call her; some men took her and\nabused her all night; and for that one sin they were called to account.\nThey were called upon to deliver up the offenders but they would not do\nit, and they were viewed as confederates. And what was the result of\nthat one little crime--not a little crime--a great one; that one crime\ninstead of thousands? The Lord God said to the rest of the tribes of\nIsrael, Go forth and fight against the tribe of Benjamin. They fought\nagainst Benjamin; and the next day they were again commanded to go\nforth and fight against Benjamin. They obeyed; and the next day they\nwere again so commanded; and they fought until they cut off the entire\ntribe except six hundred men. The destruction of nearly the whole tribe\nof Benjamin was the punishment for one act of prostitution.\n\nCompare the strictness that existed in ancient Israel with the\nwhoredoms, the prostitution and even the infanticide practised in all\nthe cities of this great nation; and then because a few individuals\nin this mountain Territory are practising Bible marriage a law must\nbe threatened to inflict heavy penalties upon us; our families must\nbe torn from us and be driven to misery, because of the piety of a\ncivilization in which the enormities I have pointed out exist.\n\nTo close this argument I now call upon the reverend gentleman, whom I\nhighly respect for his learning, his eloquence and ability, to bring\nforth proof to rebut the passages laid down in yesterday's argument in\nsupport of the position that the Bible sanctions polygamy. I ask him to\nprove that those laws were limited. If they were limited--\n\n(Here the umpires announced that the time was up.)\n\nDr. NEWMAN Rose and Said:\n\nMessrs. Umpires and Ladies and Gentlemen:\n\nI understand the gentleman to complain against me that I did not\nanswer his Scriptural arguments adduced yesterday. If I did not the\nresponsibility is upon him. He, being in the affirmative, should have\nanalyzed and defined the question under debate; but he failed to do\nthat. It therefore fell to me, not by right, but by his neglecting to\ndo his duty; and I did it to the best of my ability. It was of the\nutmost importance that this audience, so attentive and so respectable,\nshould have a clear and definite understanding of the terms of the\nquestion; and I desire now to inform the gentleman, that I had the\nanswers before me to the passages which he adduced, and had I had\nanother hour, I would have produced them then. I will do it to-day.\nNow, my learned friend will take out his pencil, for he will have\nsomething to do this afternoon.\n\nA passing remark--a word in regard to the original manuscripts, written\nby Moses, or Joshua, or Samuel, or the prophets. You sit down to\nwrite a letter to a friend; you take it into your head to copy that\nletter; you copy that letter; the original draft you care nothing\nabout--whether it is given to the winds or the flames. What care I\nabout the two tables of stone on which the original law was written,\nso that I have a true copy of this law? A passing remark in regard to\nMother Eve. I will defend the venerable woman! If the Fall came by the\ninfluence of one woman over one man, what would have happened to the\nworld if Adam had had more wives than one? More, if one woman, under\nmonogamy, brought woe into the world, then a monogamist, the blessed\nvirgin Mary, brought the Redeemer into the world, so I think they are\neven.\n\nMy friend supposes that the Almighty might have created more women than\none out of Adam's ribs; but Adam had not ribs enough to create fifty\nwomen. My friend speaks against polyandry, or the right of woman to\nhave more husbands than one. He bases his argument upon the increase\nof progeny. Science affirms that where polygamy or polygyny, or a\nplurality of wives prevails, there is a tendency to a preponderance or\npredominance of one sex over the other, either male or female, which\namounts to an extermination of the race.\n\nI will reply, in due time, to the gentleman's remarks in regard to\nGideon and other Scriptural characters, and especially in regard to\nprostitution, or what is known as the social evil. But first, what was\nthe object of the gentleman yesterday? It was to discover a general\nlaw for the sanction of polygamy. Did he find that law? I deny it.\nWhat is law? Law is the expression of the legislative will; law is\nthe manner in which an act is performed. It is the law of gravitation\nthat all things tend to a common centre. It is the law in botany that\nthe flowers open their fan-like leaves to the light, and close them\nbeneath the kisses of night. What is the civil law? Simply defining\nhow the citizens should act. What is the moral law? Simply defining\nthe conduct of God's moral subjects. Laws are mandatory, prohibitory\nand permissive: commanding what should be done; prohibiting what\nshould not be done, and permitting what may be done. And yet, where\nhas the gentleman produced this general law which he spent an hour in\nsearching for yesterday? And then remember, that this law must sanction\npolygamy! Perhaps it is not necessary to repeat our definition of the\nword \"sanction.\" My learned friend, for whom I have respect, agrees\nwith me as to the definition of that term, therefore we need not spend\na solitary moment further touching these two points.\n\nThere is another vital point in reference to the nature of law. In\nlegislating upon any subject there must be a great, organic central\nprinciple, mandatory or prohibitory, in reference to that subject; and\nall other parts of the particular law as well as of the general code\nmust be interpreted in harmony therewith.\n\nNow I propose to produce a law this afternoon, simple, direct and\npositive, that polygamy is forbidden in God's holy word. In Leviticus\nxviii and 18 it is written: \"Neither shalt thou take one wife to\nanother, to vex her, to uncover her nakedness, besides the other in\nher life time.\" There is a law in condemnation of polygamy. It may be\nsaid that what I have read is as it reads in the margin, but that in\nthe body of the text it reads: \"Neither shalt thou take a wife to her\nsister, to vex her, to uncover her nakedness, besides the other in her\nlifetime.\" Very well, argumentum ad hominem, I draw my argument from\nthe speech of the gentleman yesterday. Mr. Pratt said, in his comments\nupon the text, \"If brethren dwell together,\"--Now it is well enough in\nthe reading of this to refer to the margin, as we have the liberty,\nI believe, to do so, and you will find that in the margin the word\nbrother is translated \"near kinsmen.\" I accept his mode of reasoning:\nhe refers to the margin, and I refer to the margin; it is a poor rule\nthat will not work both ways; it is a poor rule that will not favor\nmonogamy if it favor polygamy. Such then is the fact stated in this law.\n\nNow it is necessary for us to consider the nature of this law and\nto expound it to your understanding, it may be proper for me to say\nthat this interpretation, as given in the margin, is sustained by\nthe most eminent biblical and classical scholars in the history of\nChristendom--by Bishop Jewell, by the learned Cookson, by the eminent\nDwight, and other distinguished biblical scholars. It is an accepted\ncanon of interpretation that the scope of the law must be considered\nin determining the sense of any portion of the law, and it is equally\nbinding upon us to ascertain the mind of the legislator, from the\npreface of the law, when such preface is given. The first few verses of\nthe xviii chapter of Leviticus are prefatory. In the 3rd verse it is\nstated that--\n\n After the doings of the land of Egypt, wherein ye dwelt, shall ye not\n do and after the doings of the land of Canaan, whither I bring you,\n shall ye no do: neither shall ye walk in their ordinances.\n\nBoth the Egyptians and the Canaanites practised incest, idolatry\nsodomy, adultery and polygamy. From verse 6 to verse 17, inclusive, the\nlaw of consanguinity is laid down, and the blood relationship defined.\nThen the limits within which persons were forbidden to marry, and in\nverse 18 the law against polygamy is given--\"neither shalt thou take a\nwife to her sister,\" but as we have given it, \"neither shalt thou take\none wife to another,\" etc.\n\nAccording to Dr. Edwards, the words which are translated as \"wife\" or\n\"sister,\" are found in the Hebrew but eight times, and in each passage\nthey refer to inanimate objects, such as the wings of the cherubim,\ntenons, mortises, etc., and signify the coupling together one _to\nanother, the same as thou shalt not take one wife to another_.\n\nSuch then is the law. Such were the ordinances forbidden which the\nEgyptians and the Canaanites practised. Now we propose to push this\nargument a little further. If it is said that this passage does not\nprohibit a man marrying two sisters at the same time then such a\nmarriage is nowhere in the Bible pronounced incestuous. That is the\nobjection of my friend. To which I reply that such a marriage is\nforbidden by sequence and analogy. As for example where the son, in\nthe 7th verse, is prohibited from marrying his mother, it follows\nthat the daughter shall not marry her father; yet it is not so given\nand precisely stated. In verse 14 it is said--\"thou shalt not uncover\nthe nakedness of thy father's brother;\" so I infer that it would be\nequally criminal to uncover the nakedness of a mother's brother,\nthough it is not so stated. In verse 16 it is said--\"thou shalt not\nuncover the nakedness of thy brother's wife,\" so I infer that a man\nshall not uncover the nakedness of his wife's sister that is, if two\nbrothers shall not take the same woman, then two women shall not take\nthe same man, for between one man and two sisters, and one woman and\ntwo brothers is the same degree of proximity, and therefore both are\nforbidden by the law of God. Furthermore, if for argument's sake, we\nconsider this means two literal sisters, then this prohibition is\nnot a permission for a man to take two wives who are not sisters;\nfor all sound jurists will agree that a prohibition is one thing and\na permission is another thing. Nay, more, the Mormons do or do not\nreceive the law of Moses as binding. That they do not is clear from\ntheir own practices. For instance, in Leviticus, xx chap. and 14 verse\nit is said--\n\n And if a man take a wife and her mother, it is wickedness; they shall\n be burnt with fire, both he and they.\n\nYet Mr. John Hyde, jr., page 56 of his work called \"Mormonism,\" states\nthat a Mr. E. Bolton married a woman and her daughter; that Captain\nBrown married a woman and her two daughters. These are illustrations\nof the violation of the law. More than this Leviticus xviii, 18,\nprohibits a man from marrying two sisters; yet Mr. Hyde informs us that\na Mr. Davis married three sisters, and a Mr. Sharkey married the same\nnumber. If the question is, Is the law of Moses obeyed here or not?\nand supposing this gentleman can prove that the text means two literal\nsisters, and two literal sisters are married here, then I affirm that\nyou do not keep God's law, or that which you say is God's law, as given\nthrough his servant Moses. Nay, more than this: if it here means two\nliteral sisters, and, whereas, Jacob married two sisters; and, whereas,\nthe great Mormon doctrine that God worked a miracle on Leah and Rachel\nthat they might have children; and, whereas, it is here said that said\nmiracles were an approval of polygamy, so also were such miracles\nan approval of incest; if it be true that God did not express this\napproval at Jacob having two wives, neither did he express disapproval\nof his having two sisters; therefore the Divine silence in the one case\nis an offset to the Divine silence in the other case. Even you are\ndriven to this conclusion, either my interpretation of this passage is\ncorrect,--neither shall a man take another wife,--two wives, or you\nmust admit that this passage means two literal sisters, and in either\ncase you live in violation of God's law. It is for my distinguished\nfriend to choose which horn of the dilemma he pleases. I thank him\nfor the compliment he paid me--that I came here as a philanthropist.\nI have only kindness in my heart for these dear men and women; and\nhad not this kindness filled my heart; had I believed in a crushing,\niron, civil law, I could have remained in Washington. But I came here\nbelieving the truth as it is in Jesus, and I am glad to say that I have\nthe privilege of speaking what I believe to be God's truth in your\nhearing.\n\nThe gentleman quoted Deuteronomy xxi, 15-17, which is the law of\nprimogeniture, and is designed to preserve the descent of property:\n\n If a man have two wives, one beloved and another hated, and they\n have borne him children, both the beloved and the hated; and if the\n first-born son be hers that was hated;\n\n Then it shall be, when he maketh his sons to inherit that which he\n hath, that he may not make the son of the beloved first-born before\n the son of the hated, which is indeed the first-born:\n\n But he shall acknowledge the son of the hated for the first-born,\n by giving him a double portion of all that he hath: for he is the\n beginning of his strength; the right of the first-born is his.\n\nHow did he apply this law? Why he first assumed the prevalence of\npolygamy among the Jews in the wilderness, and then said the law\nwas made for polygamous families as well as for monogamous. He\nsays--\"inasmuch as polygamy is nowhere condemned in the law of God, we\nare entitled to construe this law as applying to polygamists.\" But I\nhave shown already that Leviticus xviii, 18, is a positive prohibition\nof this law, and therefore this passage must be interpreted by that\nwhich I have quoted. I propose to erect the balance to-day, and try\nevery scriptural argument which he has produced in the scales of\njustice.\n\nI have recited to you God's solemn law--\"Neither shall a man take one\nwife unto another:\" and I will try every passage by this law. My friend\nspent an hour here yesterday in seeking a general law; in a minute I\ngave you a general law. How natural is the supposition, where a man\nhas two wives in succession, that he may love the last a little better\nthan the first! and I believe it is common out here to love the last\na little better than the first. And how natural it is for the second\nwife to influence the father in the disposition of his property so\nthat he will confer it upon her child! while the children of the first\nwife, poor woman, perhaps dead and gone, are deprived of their property\nrights. But supposing the meaning of this passage is two wives at the\nsame time, this cannot be construed, by any of the accepted rules of\ninterpretation, into a sanction of polygamy; if it can, I can prove\nthat sheep stealing is just as divinely authorized. For it is as if\nMoses had said: \"for in view of the prevalence of polygamy, and that\nyou have so far forgotten and transgressed God's law of monogamy as\nto take two wives at the same time, therefore this shall not work the\nabrogation of the law of primogeniture, the first-born son shall not\nthereby be cheated out of his rights.\" Now it is said: \"if a man have\ntwo wives:\" very well, if that is a privilege so also are these words:\n\"If a man shall steal an ox or a sheep and kill it and sell it, he\nshall restore five oxen for the ox he stole, and four sheep for the\nsheep.\" If the former assertion is a sanction of polygamy, then the\nlatter assertion is a sanction of sheep stealing, and we can all go\nafter the flocks this afternoon.\n\nThe second passage, in Exodus xxi, 7th to 11th verses, referring to the\nlaws of breach of promise, Mr. Pratt says proves or favors polygamy, in\nhis opinion; but he did not dwell long upon this text. He indulged in\nan episode on the lost manuscripts. Now let us inquire into the meaning\nof this passage.\n\n And if a man sell his daughter to be a maid-servant, she shall not go\n out as the men-servants do.\n\n If she please not her master, who hath betrothed her to himself, then\n shall he let her be redeemed: to sell her unto a strange nation he\n shall have no power, seeing he hath dealt deceitfully with her.\n\n And if he hath betrothed her unto his son, he shall deal with her\n after the manner of daughters.\n\n If he take him another wife, her food, her raiment, and her duty of\n marriage, shall he not diminish.\n\n And if he do not these three unto her, then shall she go out free\n without money.\n\nWhat are the significant points in this passage? They are simply\nthese--According to the Jewish law a destitute Jew was permitted to\napprentice his daughter for six years for a pecuniary consideration;\nand to guard the rights of this girl there were certain conditions:\nFirst, the period of her indenture should not extend beyond six years;\nshe should be free at the death of her master, or at the coming of the\nyear of jubilee. The next condition was that the master or his son\nshould marry the girl. What, therefore, are we to conclude from this\npassage? Simply this, that neither the father nor the son marry the\ngirl, but simply betrothed her; that is, engaged her, promised to marry\nher: but before the marriage relation was consummated the young man\nchanged his mind, and then God Almighty, to indicate his displeasure\nat a man who would break the vow of engagement, fixes the following\npenalties, namely that he shall provide for this woman, whom he has\nwronged, her food, her raiment and her dwelling, and these are the\nfacts: and the gentleman has not proved, the gentleman cannot prove,\nthat either the father or the son marry the girl. He says the honored\nterm \"wife\" is there. Honored term! God bless that term! It is an\nhonored term, sacred as the nature of angels. Yet I have to inform my\ndistinguished friend that the word wife is neither in the Hebrew nor\nin the Greek, but simply \"if he take another,\" that is if he betroth\nanother, and then change his mind he shall do thus and so. Where then\nis the gentleman's general law in approval of polygamy?\n\nThe next passage is recorded in Deuteronomy xxv chap., and from the 5th\nto the 10th verses, referring to the preservation of families:\n\n If brethren dwell together, and one of them die, and have no child,\n the wife of the dead shall not marry without unto a stranger: her\n husband's brother shall go in unto her, and take her unto him to wife,\n and perform the duty of a husband's brother unto her.\n\n And it shall be, that the first-born which she beareth shall succeed\n in the name of his brother which is dead, that his name be not put out\n of Israel.\n\n And if the man like not to take his brother's wife, then let his\n brother's wife go up to the gate unto the elders, and say, My\n husband's brother refuseth to raise up unto his brother a name in\n Israel, he will not perform the duty of my husband's brother:\n\n Then the elders of his city shall call him, and speak unto him: and if\n he stand to it, and say, I like not to take her;\n\n Then shall his brother's wife come unto him in the presence of the\n elders, and loose his shoe from off his foot, and spit in his face,\n and shall answer and say, So shall it be done unto that man that will\n not build up his brother's house.\n\n And his name shall be called in Israel, the house of him that hath his\n shoe loosed.\n\nWhat is the object of this law! Evidently the preservation of families\nand family inheritances. And now I challenge the gentleman to bring\nforward a solitary instance in the Bible where a married man was\ncompelled to obey this law. Take the case of Tamar! Certainly the\nbrother that was to have married her could not have been a married man,\nbecause she had to wait until he grew up. Then take the case of Ruth.\nYou know how she lost her noble Mahlon afar off beyond Jordan, and\nhow she returned to Bethlehem, and goes to Boaz, a near kinsman, and\ndemands that he shall marry her. Boaz says--\"there is another kinsman.\nI will speak to him.\" It is asked--\"Didn't Boaz know whether the nearer\nkinsman was married?\" but yet that was not the business of Boaz. The\ndivine law required that this man should appear at the gate of the\ncity before the elders, and there either marry her or say that he was\ndisqualified because he was already a married man; and there is no\nproof in the Bible that Boaz had been married; nay, more than this, old\nJosephus, the Jewish historian, asserts that the reason why the near\nkinsman did not marry Ruth was that he had a wife and children already,\nso I judge that this law, which is said to be general, is that that I\nlaid down--\"Neither shall a man take one wife unto another,\" etc. He\nrefers me to Numbers xxxi, 17th and 18th verses.\n\n Now, therefore, kill every male among the little ones, and kill every\n woman that hath known man by lying with him.\n\n But all the women-children, that have not known man by lying with him,\n keep alive for yourselves.\n\nThis passage has nothing whatever to do with polygamy. It is an\naccount of the results of a military expedition of the Jews against\nthe Midianites; their slaughter of a portion of the people, and their\nreduction of the remainder to slavery--namely the women for domestics.\nMy friend dwells upon thirty-two thousand women that were saved! What\nwere these among the Jewish nation--a people numbering two and a half\nmillions?\n\nHe quotes Deuteronomy xxi, 10th and 13th verses:\n\n When thou goest forth to war against thine enemies, and the Lord thy\n God hath delivered them into thine hands, and thou hast taken them\n captive;\n\n And seest among the captives a beautiful woman, and hast a desire unto\n her, that thou wouldst have her to thy wife;\n\n Then thou shalt bring her home to thine house; and she shall shave her\n head, and pare her nails;\n\n And she shall put the raiment of her captivity from off her, and shall\n remain in thine house, and bewail her father and her mother a full\n mouth: and after that thou shalt go in unto her, and be her husband\n and she shall be thy wife.\n\nThis passage is designed to regulate the treatment of a captive woman\nby the conqueror who desires her for a wife, and has no more to do with\npolygamy than it has to do with theft or murder. Not a solitary word\nis said about polygamy, no mention is made that the man is married,\ntherefore every jurist will agree with me that where we find a general\nlaw we may judge a special enactment by the organic, fundamental\nprinciple.\n\nHe quoted Exodus xxii chap., 16 and 17, and Deuteronomy xxii, and 28\nand 29:\n\n And if a man entice a maid that is not betrothed, and lie with her, he\n shall surely endow her to be his wife.\n\n If her father utterly refuse to give her unto him, he shall pay money\n according to the dowry of virgins.\n\nIn Deuteronomy it is said:\n\n If a man find a damsel that is a virgin, which is not betrothed, and\n lay hold on her, and lie with her, and they be found;\n\n Then the man that lay with her shall give unto the damsel's father\n fifty shekels of silver, and she shall be his wife; because he hath\n humbled her, he may not put her away all his days.\n\nMy friend appeared to confound these two laws, as if they had reference\nto the same crime; but the first is the law of seduction, while the\nsecond was the law of rape. In both cases the defiler was required to\nmarry his victim; but in the case of seduction, if the father of the\nseduced girl would not consent to the marriage, then the sum usual\nfor the dowry of a virgin should be paid him and the offense was\nexpiated. But what was the penalty of rape? In that case there is no\nambiguity--the ravisher married his victim and paid her father fifty\npieces of silver besides. But what has this to do with polygamy? He\nsays it is a general law and applies to married men. This cannot be so,\nbecause it is in conflict with the great law of Leviticus xviii, 18.\n\nI tell you, my friends, these are simple downright assumptions. The\nposition is first taken, and therefore these passages are adduced to\nsustain that position; and this gentleman goes on to assume that all\nthese men are married men. It is a tremendous fact, that if a man\nseduced a girl or committed a rape upon her, he was bound to marry that\ngirl. It is a tremendous fact that the same law gives to the father\nthe right of the refusal of his daughter, therefore the father has the\npower to annul God's law of marriage.\n\nThe next passage is the 2nd Chronicles, xxiv and 3rd, &c. It is the\ncase of Joash the king, and when he began to reign Jehoiada was high\npriest. He was more than that--he was regent. My friend in portraying\nthe character of this great man said that because he took two wives for\nKing Joash, he was so highly honored that when he died he was buried\namong the kings. But the fact is, he was regent, and there was royalty\nin his regency, and this royalty entitled him to be interred in the\nroyal mausoleum. All that is said in Chronicles is simply an epitome--a\nsumming up, that King Joash had two wives. It does not say that he had\nthem at the same time; he might have had them in succession. I give\nyou an illustration: John Milton was born in London in 1609. He was\nan eminent scholar, a great statesman and a beautiful poet; and John\nMilton had three wives. There I stop. Are you to infer that John Milton\nhad these three wives simultaneously? Why you might according to the\ngentleman's interpretation of this passage. But John Milton had them in\nsuccession. But more than this, for argument's sake grant the position\nassumed by my friend, then the numerical element of the argument must\ncome out, and a man can only have two wives and no more. Do you keep\nthat law here? And yet that is the argument and that is the logical\nconclusion.\n\nThe last passage my friend referred to was the 1st chapter of Hosea,\nand 2nd verse:\n\n The beginning of the word of the Lord by Hosea. And the Lord said\n to Hosea, Go, take unto thee a wife of whoredoms, and children of\n whoredoms: for the land hath committed great whoredoms, departing from\n the Lord.\n\nThat is, says Newcomb, a wife from among the Israelites, who were\nremarkable for spiritual fornication. My friend is so determined on a\nliteral interpretation that he gives a literal interpretation, whereas\nthis distinguished biblical scholar says that it was not literal\nfornication, but rather spiritual; in other words, idolatry; for in the\nScriptures, both the Old and the New Testament, idolatry is mentioned\nunder the term fornication. God calls himself the husband of Israel,\nand this chosen nation owed him the fidelity of a wife. Exodus the\nxxxiv Chapter and 15th verse:\n\n Lest thou make a covenant with the inhabitants of the land, and they\n go a whoring after their gods, and do sacrifice unto their gods, and\n one call thee, and thou eat of his sacrifice.\n\nThe 14th verse of the same chapter says:\n\n For thou shalt worship no other god: for the Lord, whose name is\n jealous, is a jealous God.\n\nHe therefore sees thee with indignation join thyself in marriage to\none of those who had committed fornication or spiritual idolatry, lest\nthey should raise up children, who, by the power of example, might\nlay themselves under the terribleness of idolatry. The prophet is\ndirected to get a wife of whoredoms; and, after this, he is directed\nto go and love an adulterous woman. My friend cites these as examples\nwhere God makes an exception to a general law. He also cites the case\nof Abraham offering up his son Isaac, and the case of consanguinity,\nin Deuteronomy xxv, from 5th to 10th verse. Now the first three\ncases were merely typical; the first two were designed to set forth\nmore impressively the relations between God and His people. The\ncase of consanguinity has nothing to do with polygamy. It is only a\nmodification or exception in special cases for the preservation of the\nfamilies of Israel from extinction. Where, therefore, I ask, is the\ngeneral law?\n\nBut my friend has forgotten this fact, that after having divorced the\nfirst wife for adultery, as he had a right to do, in chapter ii, 2nd\nand 5th verses, he is then directed to go and take another wife. This\nis not polygamy. It was represented to us here, yesterday, that this\nprophet, Hosea, was first commanded to take a woman guilty of adultery\nor fornication, and then to take an adulteress, and the representation\nwas made that he took them and had them at the same time; whereas,\nif Mr. Pratt had read a little further, he would have found that the\nprophet divorced the first wife for adultery, and he had a right to do\nit; and after he divorced her, then he went and took a second wife.\n\nProfessor Pratt admits, mark you, admits that none of these passages,\nnor all of them together, can afford in this day a warrant for the\npractice of polygamy. Gives it up! Turns the Bible aside! I will read\nto you from his own words:\n\n Supposing that we should prove by a thousand evidences from the Bible\n that polygamy was practised by ancient Israel, and was sanctioned by\n God in ancient days, would that be any reason that you and I should\n practise it? By no means. We must get a command independent of that,\n which we have received. God frequently repeats His commands, and His\n servants are required to obey His commands when they are given. The\n Latter-day Saints in this Territory practise polygamy not because the\n law of Moses commands it; not because it was extensively practised\n by the best of men we know of, mentioned in the Bible, the old\n patriarchs, Abraham and Jacob and others, who are saved in the kingdom\n of God. We have no right to practise it because they did it.\n\nThen he yields the point! I respectfully ask him, if this is his\nposition, why does he attempt, in all his writings, and to establish it\nin that clever book the Seer? Why did he, in his controversy with me in\nthe New York Herald? Why has he from this stand attempted to prove that\nthe practice of polygamy was right from the Bible? Why not, like a man,\ncome out and say that we practise this system here, not because the\nJews did it; not because the Divine law sanctioned it years ago; but\nbecause a certain man of the name of Smith received a revelation that\nthis form of marriage was to be practised? You, my friends, can see the\nlogical conclusion, or in other words the illogical bearing.\n\nNow, I come to the assumptions by the gentleman. First, that there is\nno law condemning or forbidding polygamy. Has he proved that? Second,\nthat the Hebrew nation, as it was in the wilderness, when the Mosaic\ncode was given, was polygamous. Has he proved that? Can he find in\nthe whole history of the Jewish nation, from the time they left Egypt\nto the time they entered the land of Canaan, can he find more than\none instance of polygamy? Perhaps he may find two. I will be glad to\nreceive that information, for I am a man seeking light, and to-day\nI throw down a challenge to your eminent defender of the faith, to\nproduce more than two instances of polygamy, from the time the Jews\nleft the land of Egypt to the time they entered Canaan. I will assist\nhim in his research and tell him one, and that was Caleb. Now supposing\nthat a murder should be committed in your city, would it be fair for\nEastern papers to say that the Mormons are a murderous people? No,\nI would rise up in defence of you; I would say that that is a crime\nand an injury to the people here! Yet, during a period of forty years\nwe find one man out of two millions and a half of people practising\npolygamy, and my friend comes forward and assumes that the Israelites\nwere polygamists.\n\nThird, that these laws were given to regulate among them an institution\nalready existing. Has he proved that? Supposing he could prove that\nMoses attempted, or did legislate for the regulation of polygamy, as\nit did exist in Egypt and elsewhere, would such legislation establish\na sanction? Why in Paris they have laws regulating the social evil;\nis that an approval of the social evil? There are laws in most of the\nStates regulating and controling intemperance. Do excise laws sanction\nintemperance? Nothing of the kind. For argument's sake I would be\nwilling to concede that Moses did legislate in regard to polygamy,\nthat is to regulate it, to confine its evils; and yet my friend is too\nmuch of a legislator to stand here and assert that laws regulating and\ndefining were an approval of a system.\n\nFourth, that these laws were general, applying to all men, married and\nunmarried. Has he proved that? I have proved to the contrary to-day,\nshowing that in the passages which he quoted there is not a solitary or\nremote intimation that the men were married.\n\nNow let us, in opposition to these assumptions, remember that monogamy\nwas established by God in the innocence of the human race, and that\npolygamy, like idolatry, and slavery, blood revenge, drunkenness and\nmurder came into existence after the apostasy of the human family, and\nthat neither of these evils have any other origin so far as appears\nfrom the Bible than in the wickedness of man. We admit that polygamy\nexisted among the corrupt nations, just as any other evil, or vice,\nor crime existed, and now when God had chosen the Hebrews for His own\npeople, to separate them from the heathen, He gives them for the first\ntime a code of laws, and especially on the subject of the commerce\nof the sexes. And what is the central principle of that code on this\nsubject? Read Leviticus xviii, 18--\"Neither shall a man take one wife\nunto another.\"\n\nIn this code the following things are forbidden: Incest, polygamy,\nfornication, idolatry, beastliness, &c.; we therefore deny that\nthe nation was polygamous at that time, deny it definitely, deny it\ndistinctly, and on another occasion I will give you the character of\nthe monogamists and polygamists of Bible times. The Jews had been four\nhundred years in slavery, and they were brought out with a strong hand\nand an outstretched arm.\n\nWe, to-day, then challenge for the proof that as a nation the Jews\nwere polygamous. One or two instances, as I have already remarked, can\nbe adduced. We may say again that if, as he assumes, these laws were\ngiven to regulate the existing system, this does not sanction it any\nmore than the same thing sanctions sheep-stealing or homicide. He said\nthese laws were general, applying to all men, married or unmarried. Has\nhe proved it? This is wholly gratuitous. There is no word in either of\nthese passages which permits or directs a married man to take more than\none wife at a time. I challenge the gentleman for the proof. It is no\nevidence of the sanction of polygamy to bring passage after passage,\nwhich he knows, if construed in favor of polygamy, polygamy must be in\ndirect conflict with the great organic law recorded in Leviticus xviii,\n18.\n\n[At this point the umpires announced that the time was up.]\n\n\n\nTHIRD AND CLOSING DAY.\n\nPROF. ORSON PRATT.\n\nLadies and Gentlemen:\n\nWe have assembled ourselves in this vast congregation in the third\nsession of our discussion, to take into consideration the Divinity of\na very important institution of the Bible. The question, as you have\nalready heard, is \"Does the Bible Sanction Polygamy?\" Many arguments\nhave already been adduced, on the side of the affirmative, and also\non the side of the negative. This afternoon one hour is allotted to\nme in the discussion, to bring forth still further evidences, which\nwill close the debate, so far as the affirmative is concerned; then to\nbe followed by the Reverend Dr. Newman, which will finally close the\ndiscussion.\n\nPolygamy is a question, or in other words, is an institution of the\nBible; an institution established, as we have already shown, by Divine\nauthority; established by law--by command; and hence, of course, must\nbe sanctioned by the great Divine Law-Giver, whose words are recorded\nin the Bible.\n\nYesterday I was challenged by the Reverend Dr. Newman, to bring forth\nany evidence whatever to prove that there were more than two polygamist\nfamilies in all Israel during the time of their sojourn in the\nwilderness. At least this is what I understood the gentleman to say. I\nshall now proceed to bring forth the proof.\n\nThe statistics of Israel in the days of Moses show that there were of\nmales, over twenty years of age, Numbers 1st chapter, 49 verse:\n\n Even all they that were numbered, were six hundred thousand and three\n thousand, and five hundred and fifty.\n\nIt was admitted, yesterday afternoon, by Dr. Newman, that there were\ntwo and a half millions of Israelites. Now I shall take the position\nthat the females among the Israelites were far more numerous than the\nmales; I mean that portion of them that were over twenty years of\nage. I assume this for this reason, that from the birth of Moses down\nuntil the time that the Israelites were brought out of Egypt, some\neighty years had elapsed. The destruction of the male children had\ncommenced before the birth of Moses; how many years before I know not.\nThe order of King Pharaoh was to destroy every male child. All the\npeople, subject to this ruler, were commanded to see that they were\ndestroyed and thrown into the river Nile. How long a period this great\ndestruction continued is unknown, but if we suppose that one male child\nto every two hundred and fifty persons was annually destroyed, it would\namount to the number of ten thousand yearly. This would soon begin to\ntell in the difference between the numbers of males and females. Ten\nthousand each year would only be one male child to each two hundred\nand fifty persons. How many would this make from the birth of Moses,\nor eighty years? It would amount to 800,000 females above that of the\nmales. But I do not wish to take advantage in this argument by assuming\ntoo high a number. I will diminish it one half, which will still leave\n400,000 more females than males. This would be one male destroyed each\nyear out of every five hundred persons. The females, then, over twenty\nyears of age would be 603,550, added to 400,000 surplus women, making\nin all 1,003,550 women over twenty years of age. The children, then,\nunder twenty years of age, to make up the two and a half millions,\nwould be 892,900, the total population of Israel being laid down at\n2,500,000 people.\n\nNow, then, for the number of families constituting this population.\nThe families having first-born males over one month old, see Numbers\niii chapter and 43rd verse, numbered 22,273. Families having no male\nchildren over one month old we may suppose to have been in the ratio\nof one-third of the former class of families, which would make 7,424\nadditional families. Add these to the 22,273 with first-born males\nand we have the sum total of 20,697 as the number of the families in\nIsrael. Now, in order to favor the monogamists' argument, and give them\nall the advantage possible, we will still add to this number to make\nit even--303 families more, making thirty thousand families in all.\nNow comes another species of calculation founded on this data: Divide\ntwenty-five hundred thousand persons by 22,273 first-born males, and we\nfind one first-born male to every 112 persons. What a large family for\na monogamist! But divide 2,500,000 persons by 30,000 and the quotient\ngives eighty-three persons in a family. Suppose these families to have\nbeen monogamic, after deducting husband and wife, we have the very\nrespectable number of eighty-one children to each monogamic wife. If we\nassume the numbers of the males and females to have been equal, making\nno allowance for the destruction of the male infants, we shall then\nhave to increase the children under twenty years of age to keep good\nthe number of two and a half millions. This would still make eighty-one\nchildren to each of the 30,000 monogamic households. Now let us examine\nthese dates in connection with polygamy. If we suppose the average\nnumber of wives to have been seven, in each household, though there may\nhave been men who had no wife at all, and there may have been some who\nhad but one wife; and there may have been others having from one up to\nsay thirty wives, yet if we average them at seven wives each, we would\nthen have one husband, seven wives and seventy-five children to make\nup the average number of eighty-three in the family, in a polygamic\nhousehold. This would give an average of over ten children apiece to\neach of the 210,000 polygamic wives. When we deduct the 30,000 husbands\nfrom the 605,550 men over twenty years old we have 573,550 unmarried\nmen in Israel. If we deduct the 210,000 married women from the total of\n1,005,550 over twenty years of age, we have 793,550 left. This would\nbe enough to supply all the unmarried men with one wife each, leaving\nstill a balance of 220,000 unmarried females to live old maids or enter\ninto polygamic households.\n\nThe law guaranteeing the rights of the first-born, which has been\nreferred to in other portions of our discussion, includes those 22,273\nfirst-born male children in Israel, that is, one first born male child\nto every 112 persons in Israel; taking the population as represented by\nour learned friend, Mr. Newman, at two and a half millions. Thus we see\nthat there was a law given to regulate the rights of the first-born,\napplying to over 22,000 first-born male children in Israel, giving them\na double portion of the goods and inheritances of their fathers.\n\nHaving brought forth these statistics, let us for a few moments examine\nmore closely these results. How can any one assume Israel to have\nbeen monogamic, and be consistent? I presume that my honored friend,\nnotwithstanding his great desire and earnestness to overthrow the\nDivine evidences in favor of polygamy, would not say to this people\nthat one wife could bring forth eighty-one children. We can depend\nupon these proofs--upon these biblical statistics. If he assumes\nthat the males and females were nearly equal in number, that Israel\nwas a monogamic people, then let Mr. Newman show how these great and\nwonderful households could be produced in Israel, if there were only\ntwo polygamic families in the nation. It would require something more\nwonderful than the herb called \"mandrake,\" referred to by Dr. Newman\nin his rejoinder to my reply to him in the New York Herald. I think he\nwill not be able to find, in our day, an herb with such wonderfully\nefficacious properties, which will produce such remarkable results.\n\nI have therefore established that Israel was a polygamic nation when\nGod gave them the laws which I have quoted, laws to govern and regulate\na people among whom were polygamic and monogamic families. The nation\nwas founded in polygamy in the days of Jacob, and was continued in\npolygamy until they became very numerous, very great and very powerful,\nwhile here and there might be found a monogamic family--a man with\none wife. Now if God gave laws to a people having these two forms of\nmarriage in the wilderness, He would adapt such laws to all. He would\nnot take up isolated instances here and there of a man having one wife,\nbut He would adapt His laws to the whole; to both the polygamic and\nmonogamic forms of marriage throughout all Israel.\n\nBut we are informed by the reverend Doctor that the law given for the\nregulation of matters in the polygamic form of marriage bears upon the\nface of it the condemnation of polygamy. And to justify his assertion\nhe refers to the laws that have been passed in Paris to regulate the\nsocial evil; and to the excise laws passed in our own country to\nregulate intemperance; and claims that these laws for the regulation\nof evils are condemnatory of the crimes to which they apply. But when\nParisians pass laws to regulate the social evil they acknowledge\nit as a crime. When the inhabitants of this country pass laws to\nregulate intemperance, they thereby denounce it as a crime. And when\nGod gives laws, or even when human legislatures make penal laws, they\ndenounce as crimes the acts against which these laws are directed,\nand attach penalties to them for disobedience. When the law was\ngiven of God against murder, it was denounced as a crime by the very\npenalty attached, which was death; and when the law was given against\nadultery its enormity was marked by the punishment--the criminal was\nto be stoned to death. It was a crime, and was so denounced when the\nlaw was given. God gave laws to regulate these things in Israel; but\nbecause He has regulated many great and abominable crimes by law, has\nHe no right to regulate that which is good and moral as well as that\nwhich is wicked and immoral? For instance, God introduced the law of\ncircumcision and gave commands regulating it; shall we, therefore\nsay, according to the logic of the gentleman, that circumcision was\ncondemned by the law of God, because it was regulated by the law of\nGod? That would be his logic, and the natural conclusion according to\nhis logic. Again, when God introduced the Passover. He gave laws how it\nshould be conducted. Does that condemn the Passover as being immoral\nbecause regulated by law? But, still closer home, God gave laws to\nregulate the monogamic form of marriage. Does that prove that monogamy\nis condemned by the law of God, because thus regulated? On, that kind\nof logic will never do!\n\nNow, then, we come to that passage in Leviticus, the xviii chapter,\nand the 18th verse; the passage that was so often referred to in\nthe gentleman's reply yesterday afternoon. I was very glad to hear\nthe gentleman refer to this passage. The law, according to King\nJames' translation, as we heard yesterday afternoon, reads thus:\n\"Neither shalt thou take a wife to her sister to vex her, to uncover\nher nakedness, besides the other in her life-time.\" That was the\nlaw according to King James' translation. My friend, together with\nDoctors Dwight and Edwards, and several other celebrated commentators,\ndisagree with that interpretation; and somebody, I know not whom, some\nunauthorized person, has inserted in the margin another interpretation:\nrecollect, in the margin and not in the text. It is argued that this\ninterpretation in the margin must be correct, while King James'\ntranslators must have been mistaken. Now, recollect that the great\ncommentators who have thus altered King James' translation were\nmonogamists. So were the translators of the Bible; they, too, were\nmonogamists. But with regard to the true translation of this passage,\nit has been argued by my learned friend that the Hebrew--the original\nHebrew--signifies something a little different from that which is\ncontained in King James' translation. These are his words, as will be\nfound in his sermon preached at Washington, upon this same subject:\n\"But in verse 38 the law against polygamy is given, 'Neither shalt\nthou take a wife to her sister;' or, as the marginal reading is, 'Thou\nshalt not take one wife to another.' And this rendering is sustained by\nCookson, by Bishop Jewell and by Drs. Edwards and Dwight,\" four eminent\nmonogamists, interested in sustaining monogamy. According to Dr.\nEdwards, the words which we translate 'a wife to her sister' are found\nin the Hebrew but eight times. Now we have not been favored with these\nauthorities, we have had no access to them. Here in these mountain\nwilds it is very difficult to get books. In each passage they refer to\ninanimate objects; that is, in each of the eight places where the words\nare found. We have searched for them in the Hebrew and can refer you\nto each passage where they occur. And each time they refer to objects\njoined together, such as wings, loops, curtains, etc., and signify\ncoupling together. The gentleman reads the passage \"Thou shalt not take\none wife to another,\" and understands it as involving the likeness of\none thing to another, which is correct. But does the language forbid,\nas the margin expresses it, the taking of one wife to another? No; we\nhave the privilege, according to the rules or articles of debate, which\nhave been read this afternoon, to apply to the original Hebrew. What\nare the Hebrew words--the original--that are used? _Veishah el-ahotah\nlo tikkah:_ this, when literally translated and transposed is, \"neither\nshalt thou take a wife to her sister,\" veishah being translated by\nKing James' translators \"a wife,\" el-ahotah being translated \"to her\nsister;\" lo is translated \"neither;\" while tikkah is translated by\nKing James' translators \"shalt thou take.\" They have certainly given a\nliteral translation. Appeal to the Hebrew and you will find the word\nishah occurs hundreds of times in the Bible, and is translated \"wife.\"\nThe word \"ahotah\", translated by King James' translators \"a sister,\"\noccurs hundreds of times in the Bible, and is translated \"sister.\" But\nare these the only translations--the only renderings? Ishah, when it is\nfollowed by ahot has another rendering. That is when \"wife\" is followed\nby \"sister\" there is another rendering.\n\nTranslators have no right to give a double translation to the same\nHebrew word, in the same phrase; if they translate veishah one, they\nare not at liberty to translate the same word in the same phrase over\nagain and call it wife. This Dr. Edwards, or some other monogamist, has\ndone, and inserted this false translation in the margin. What object\nsuch translator had in deceiving the public must be best known to\nhimself: he probably was actuated by a zeal to find some law against\npolygamy, and concluded to manufacture the word \"wife,\" and place it\nin the margin, without any original Hebrew word to represent it. Ahot,\nwhen standing alone, is rendered sister; when preceded by ishah, is\nrendered another; the suffix ah, attached to ahot, is translated \"her;\"\nboth together (ahot-ah) are rendered \"her sister,\" that is sister's\nsister; when ahot is rendered \"another,\" its suffix ah represents \"her\"\nor more properly the noun sister, for which it stands. The phrase will\nthen read: Veishah (one) el-ahotah (sister to another) lo (neither)\ntikkah (shalt thou take) which, when transposed, reads thus: _Neither\nshalt thou take one sister to another_. This form of translation agrees\nwith the rendering given to the same Hebrew words or phrase in the\nseven other passages of Scripture, referred to by Dr. Newman and Dr.\nEdwards. (See Exodus xxvi, 3, 5; Ezekiel i, 9, 11, 23; also iii, 13.)\n\nIt will be seen that the latter form of translation gives precisely\nthe same idea as that given by the English translators in the text. It\nalso agrees with the twelve preceding verses of the law, prohibiting\nintermarriages among blood relations, and forms a part and parcel of\nthe same code; while the word \"wife,\" inserted in the margin, is not,\nand cannot, by any possible rule of interpretation, be extorted from\nthe original connection with the second form of translation.\n\nWhy should King James' literal translation \"wife\" and \"sister\" be\nset aside for \"one to another?\" Because they saw a necessity for it.\nThere is this difference: in all the other seven passages where the\nwords Veishah el-ahotah occur, there is a noun in the nominative case\npreceding them, denoting something to be coupled together. Exodus 26th\nchapter, 3rd verse contains ishah el-ahotah twice, signifying to couple\ntogether the curtains one to another, the same words being used that\nare used in this text. Go to the fifth verse of the same chapter, and\nthere we have the loops of the curtains joined together one to another,\nthe noun in the nominative case being expressed. Next go to Ezekiel,\n1st chapter, 9th, 11th and 23rd verses, and these three passages give\nthe rendering of these same words, coupling the wings of the cherubim\none to another. Then go again to the 3rd chapter of Ezekiel and 13th\nverse, and the wings of the living creatures were joined together one\nto another. But in the text under consideration no such noun in the\nnominative case occurs; and hence the English translators concluded to\ngive each word its literal translation.\n\nThe law was given to prevent quarrels, which are apt to arise among\nblood relations. We might look for quarrels on the other side between\nwomen who were not related by blood; but what are the facts in relation\nto quarrels between blood relations? Go back to Cain and Abel. Who was\nit spilled the blood of Abel? It was a blood relation, his brother.\nWho was it that cast Joseph into the pit to perish with hunger, and\nafterwards dragged him forth from his den and sold him as a slave to\npersons trading through the country? It was blood relations. Who slew\nthe seventy sons of Gideon upon one stone? It was one of their own\nbrothers that hired men to do it. Who was it that rebelled against\nKing David, and caused him with all his wives and household, excepting\nten concubines, to flee out of Jerusalem? It was his blood relation,\nhis own son Absalom. Who quarrelled in the family of Jacob? Did Bilhah\nquarrel with Zilpah? No. Did Leah quarrel with Bilhah or Zilpah?\nNo such thing is recorded. Did Rachel quarrel with either of the\nhandmaidens? There is not a word concerning the matter. The little,\npetty difficulties occurred between the two sisters, blood relations,\nRachel and Leah. And this law was probably given to prevent such\nvexations between blood relations--between sister and sister.\n\nHaving effectually proved the marginal reading to be false, I will\nnow defy not only the learned gentleman, but all the world of Hebrew\nscholars to find any word in the original to be translated \"wife\" if\nishah be first translated \"one.\"\n\nI am informed I have only fifteen minutes. I was not aware I had spoken\na quarter of the time. I shall have to leave this subject and proceed\nto another.\n\nThe next subject to which I will call your attention is in regard to\nthe general or unlimited language of the laws given in the various\npassages which I have quoted. If a man shall commit rape, if a man\nshall entice a maid, if a man shall do this, or that, or the other, is\nthe language of these passages. Will any person pretend to say that a\nmarried man is not a man? And if a married person is a man, it proves\nthat the law is applicable to married men, and if so it rests with my\nlearned friend to prove that it is limited. Moreover, the passage from\nthe margin in Leviticus was quoted by Dr. Newman as a great fundamental\nlaw by which all the other passages were to be overturned. But it has\nfailed; and, therefore, the other passages quoted by me, stand good\nunless something else can be found by the learned gentleman to support\nhis forlorn hope.\n\nPerhaps we may hear quoted in the answer to my remarks the passage\nthat the future king of Israel was not to multiply wives to himself.\nThat was the law. The word multiply is construed by those opposed to\npolygamy to mean that twice one make two, and hence that he was not\nto multiply wives, or, in other words, that he was not to take two.\nBut the command was also given that the future king of Israel was not\nto multiply horses anymore than wives. Twice one make two again. Was\nthe future king of Israel not to have more than one horse? The idea is\nridiculous! The future king of Israel was not to multiply them; not to\nhave them in multitude, that is, only to take such a number as God saw\nproper to give him.\n\nWe might next refer you to the uncle of Ruth's dead husband, old Boaz,\nwho represented himself as not being the nearest kin. There was another\nnearer who had the Divine right to take her, and this other happened\nto be the brother of Boaz, perhaps a little older. Josephus tells us,\naccording to the learned gentleman, that this oldest brother was a\nmarried man. Suppose we admit it. Did Boaz not know that his brother\nwas married when he represented him as the nearest of kin and had the\nright before him? And even the brother acknowledges his right, and says\nto Boaz: \"Redeem thou my right to thyself.\" He had the right to marry\nher. This, then, we arrive at by the assistance of Josephus; and it\nproves that married men were required to comply with the law. I have\nno further time to remark on this passage. I wish now to examine a\npassage that is contained in Matthew, in regard to divorces, and also\nin Malachi, on the same subject. Malachi, or the Lord by the mouth\nof Malachi, informs the people that the Lord hated putting away. He\ngave the reason why a wife should not be put away. Not a word against\npolygamy in either passage.\n\nBut there is certain reasoning introduced to show that a wife should\nnot be put away. In the beginning the Lord made one, that is a wife\nfor Adam, that he might not be alone. Woman was given to man for a\ncompanion, that he might protect her, and for other holy purposes, but\nnot to be put away for trivial causes; and it was cause of condemnation\nin those days for a man to put away his wife. But there is not a word\nin Malachi condemnatory of a man marrying more than one wife. Jesus\nalso gives the law respecting divorces, that they should not put away\ntheir wives for any other cause than that of fornication; and he that\ntook a wife that was put away would commit adultery. Jesus says, in the\n5th chapter, that he that putteth away his wife for any other cause\nthan fornication causes her to commit adultery. Then the husband is a\nguilty accomplice, and if he puts away his wife unjustly he is guilty\nof adultery himself, the same as a confederate in murder is himself\na murderer. As an adulterer he has no right to take another wife; he\nhas not the right to take even one wife. His right is to be stoned\nto death; to suffer the penalty of death for his sin of adultery.\nConsequently, if he has no right to even life itself, he has no right\nto a wife. But the case of such a man, who has become an adulterer\nby putting away his wife, and has no right to marry another, has no\napplication, nor has the argument drawn from it any application, to the\nman who keeps his wife and takes another. The law referred to by my\nlearned opponent, in Leviticus xviii and 18, shows that polygamy was in\nexistence, but was to be kept within the circle of those who were not\nblood relations.\n\nConcerning the phrase \"duty of marriage,\" occurring in the passage,\n\"If a man take another wife, her food, her raiment and her duty of\nmarriage shall he not diminish.\" The condition here referred to is\nsometimes more than mere betrothal. It is something showing that the\nindividual has been not merely previously betrothed, but is actually\nin the married state, and the duty of marriage is clearly expressed.\nWhat is the meaning of the original word? It does not mean dwelling nor\nrefuge, as asserted in the New York Herald by Dr. Newman. Four passages\nare quoted by him in which the Hebrew word for dwelling occurs, but the\nword translated \"duty\" of marriage, is entirely a distinct word from\nthat used in the four passages referred to. Does not the learned Dr.\nknow the difference between two Hebrew words? Or what was his object\nin referring to a word elsewhere in the Scripture that does not even\noccur in the text under consideration? In a Hebrew and English Lexicon,\n(published by Josiah W. Gibbs, A. M., Prof. of Sacred Liter., in the\nTheology School in Yale College,) page 160, it refers to this very\nHebrew word and to the very passage, Ex. xxxi, 10, and translates it\nthus:--\"cohabitation,\"--\"duty of marriage.\" \"Duty of marriage\" then is\n\"cohabitation:\" thus God commands a man who takes another wife, not to\ndiminish the duty of cohabitation with the first. Would God command\nundiminished \"cohabitation\" with a woman merely betrothed and not\nmarried?\n\nWhile I have a few moments left let me refer you to Hosea. I wish all\nof you, when you go home, to read the second chapter of Hosea, and\nyou will find, with regard to Hosea's having divorced his first wife\nbecause of her whoredoms, that no such thing is recorded as stated\nby Mr. Newman yesterday. The Lord tells Hosea to go and speak to his\nbrethren, (not to his son,) to his sisters, (not his daughter,) of\nthe house of Israel, and tell them what the Lord will do; that he may\nnot acknowledge them any longer as a wife. Hosea bore the word of the\nLord to Israel, whom his own two wives represented, saying that their\nwhoredoms, their wickedness and idolatries had kindled the anger of the\nLord against them.\n\nHaving discussed the subject so far I leave it now with all candid\npersons to judge. Here is the law of God; here is the command of the\nMost High, general in its nature, not limited, nor can it be proved to\nbe so. There is no law against it, but it stands as immovable as the\nRock of Ages, and will stand when all things on the earth and the earth\nitself shall pass away.\n\nDr. J. F. NEWMAN Said:\n\nRespected Umpires, and Ladies and Gentlemen:\n\nI had heard, prior to my coming to your city, that my distinguished\nopponent was eminent in mathematics, and certainly his display to-day\nconfirms that reputation. Unfortunately, however, he is incorrect in\nhis statements. First, he assumes that the slaying of all the male\nchildren of the Hebrews was continued through eighty years; but he has\nfailed to produce the proof. To do this was his starting point. He\nassumes it; where is the proof, either in the Bible or in Josephus?\nAnd until he can prove that the destruction of the male children went\non for eighty years, I say this argument has no more foundation than\na vision. Then he makes another blunder: the 303,550, the number of\nmen above twenty years of age, mentioned in this case, were men to go\nto war; they were not the total population of the Jewish nation, and\nyet my mathematical friend stands up here to-day and declares that the\nwhole male population above twenty years of age consisted of 303,550,\nwhereas it is a fact that this number did not include all the males.\n\nThen again the 22,273 first-born do not represent the number of\nfamilies in Israel at that time, for many of the first-born were\ndead. These are the blunders that the gentleman has made to-day, and\nI challenge him to produce the contrary and prove that he is not\nguilty of these numerical blunders. Then he denies the assertion made\nyesterday that there could not be brought forward more than one or\ntwo instances of polygamy in the history of Israel from the time the\nHebrews left Egypt to the time they entered Canaan. Has he disproved\nthat? He has attempted to prove it by a mathematical problem, which\nproblem is based on error: his premises are wrong, therefore his\nconclusions are false. Why didn't he turn to King James' translation?\nI will help him to one polygamist, that is Caleb. Why didn't he start\nwith old Caleb and go down and give us name after name and date after\ndate of the polygamists recorded in the history of the Jews while they\nwere in the wilderness? Ladies and gentlemen, he had none to give, and\ntherefore the assertion made yesterday is true, that during the sojourn\nof the children of Israel in the wilderness there is but one instance\nof polygamy recorded.\n\nNow we come to the law that I laid down yesterday--\"Neither shalt thou\ntake one wife to another.\" I reaffirm that the translation in the\nmargin is perfect to a word. He labors to show that God does not mean\nwhat He says. That the phrase \"one wife to another,\" may be equally\nrendered one woman to another, or one wife to her sister. The very same\nphrase is used in the other seven passages named by Dr. Dwight. For\nexample, Exodus xxvi, 3, Ezekiel i, 9, etc. He admits the translation\nin these passages to be correct. If it is correct in these passages,\nwhy is it not correct in the other? His very admission knocks to pieces\nhis argument. Why then does he labor to create the impression that the\nHebrew ishau means woman, or wife? What is the object of the travail of\nhis soul? The word ahoot, he contends, means sister; but sister itself,\nis a word which means a specific relation, and a generic relation.\nEvery woman is sister to every other woman, and I challenge the\ngentleman to meet me on paper at any time, in the newspapers of your\ncity or elsewhere upon the Hebrew of this text. I reaffirm it, reaffirm\nit in the hearing of this learned gentleman, reaffirm it in the hearing\nof these Hebraists, that as it is said in the margin, is the true\nrendering, namely, \"neither shalt thou take one wife to another.\" But\nsupposing that is incorrect, permit me, before I pass on, to remind you\nof this fact, he refers, I think, in his first speech, to the \"margin;\"\nthe \"margin\" was correct then and there, but it is not here. It is a\npoor rule that will not work both ways; correct when he wants to quote\nfrom the \"margin,\" but not when I want to do so. He quoted from the\nmargin, and I followed his illustrious example.\n\nAnd now, my friends, supposing that the text means just what he says,\nnamely, \"neither shalt thou take a wife unto her sister, to vex her;\"\nsupposing that is the rendering, and he asserts it is, and he is a\nHebraist, I argued and brought the proof yesterday that this law of\nMoses is not kept by the Mormons; in other words there are men in\nyour very midst who have married sisters. Where was the gentleman's\nsolemn denunciation of the violation of God's law? Why did he not lift\nhis voice and vindicate the Divine law? But not a solitary word of\ndisapproval is uttered! Yesterday he pronounced a curse--\"cursed is\nhe that conforms not to the words of this law, to do them.\" Does not\nthe curse rest upon him and upon his people? I gave him the liberty to\nchoose whether this text condemned polygamy, or whether it condemned\na man for marrying two sisters; he must take his choice, the horns of\nthe dilemma are before him. For the sake of saving polygamy he stands\nup here, in the presence of Almighty God and His holy angels, and\nbefore this intelligent congregation he admits that in this church,\nand with this people, God's holy law is set at defiance. What respect,\ntherefore, can we have for the gentleman's argument, drawn from the\nteachings of Moses, in support of polygamy?\n\nHe refers us to the multiplication of horses. I suppose a king may have\none horse or two, there is no special rule; but there is a special rule\nas to the number of wives. Neither shall the king multiply wives. God,\nin the beginning, gave the first man one wife, and Christ and Paul\nsustain that law as binding upon us. And now, supposing that that is\nnot accepted as a law, what then? Why there is no limit to the number\nof wives, none at all. How many shall a man have? Seven, twenty, fifty,\nsixty, a hundred? Why, they somewhere quote a passage that if a man\nforsake his wife he shall have a hundred. Well, he ought to go on\nforsaking; for if he will forsake a hundred he will have ten thousand;\nand if he forsake ten thousand he will have so many more in proportion.\nIt is his business to go on forsaking. That is in the Professor's book\ncalled the Seer. Such a man would keep the Almighty busy creating women\nfor him.\n\nI regret very much that I have not time to notice all the points\nwhich have been brought forward. I desired to do so. I plead for more\ntime; my friends plead for more time; but time was denied us, I am\ntherefore restricted to an hour. Now, I propose to follow out the\nline of argument which I was pursuing yesterday when my time expired,\nand I propose to carry out and apply the great law brought forward\nyesterday--\"Neither shall a man take one wife unto another;\" and in\ndoing this we call your attention to the fact that in the Bible there\nare only twenty-five or thirty specially recorded cases of polygamy,\nall told, out of thousands and millions of people. I say twenty-five\nor thirty specially recorded cases, which polygamists of our day\nclaim in support of their position. I propose to take up, say half a\ndozen of the most prominent ones. I divide the period, before the law\nand after the law. I take up Abraham. It is asserted that he was a\npolygamist. I deny it. There is no proof that Abraham was guilty of\npolygamy. What are the facts? When he was called of the Almighty to be\nthe founder of a great nation, a promise was given him that he should\nhave a numerous posterity. At that time he was a monogamist, had but\none wife--the noble Sarah. Six years passed and the promise was not\nfulfilled. Then Sarah, desiring to help the Lord to keep His promise,\nbrought her Egyptian maid Hagar, and offered her as a substitute for\nherself to Abraham. Mind you, Abraham did not go after Hagar, but\nSarah produced her as a substitute. Immediately after the act was\nperformed Sarah discovered her sin and said, \"My wrong be upon thee.\"\n\"I have committed sin, but I did it for thy sake, and therefore the\nwrong that I have committed is upon thee.\" Then look at the subsequent\nfacts: by the Divine command this Egyptian girl was sent away from the\nabode of Abraham by the mutual consent of the husband and the wife;\nby the Divine command, it is said that she was recognized as the wife\nof Abraham, but I say you cannot prove it from the Bible; but it is\nsaid that she was promised a numerous posterity. It was also foretold\nthat Ishmael should be a wild man--\"his hand against every man and\nevery man's hand against him.\" Did that prediction justify Ishmael\nin being a robber and a murderer? No, certainly not; neither did the\nother prediction, that Hagar should have a numerous posterity, justify\nthe action of Abraham in taking her. After she had been sent away by\nDivine command, God said unto Abraham--\"now walk before me and be thou\nperfect.\"\n\nThese are the facts my friends. I know that some will refer you\nto Keturah; but this is the fact in regard to her: Abraham lived\nthirty-eight years after the death of Sarah; the energy miraculously\ngiven to Abraham's body for the generation of Isaac was continued after\nSarah's death; but to suppose that he took Keturah during Sarah's\nlifetime is to do violence to his moral character. But it is said\nhe sent away the sons of Keturah with presents during his lifetime,\ntherefore it must have been during the life time of Sarah. He lived\nthirty-eight years after the death of Sarah, and he sent these sons\naway eight years before his death, and they were from twenty-five to\nthirty years old. Then this venerable Patriarch stands forth as a\nmonogamist and not as a polygamist.\n\nThen we come to the case of Jacob. What are the facts in regard to him?\nBrought up in the sanctity of monogamy, after having robbed his brother\nof his birth-right, after having lied to his blind old father, he then\nsteals away and goes to Padan-aram and there falls in love with Rachel;\nbut in his bridal bed he finds Rachel's sister Leah. He did not enter\npolygamy voluntarily but he was imposed upon. As he had taken advantage\nof the blindness of his father and thereby imposed upon him, so also\nwas he imposed upon by Laban in the darkness of the night. But I hold\nthis to be true that Jacob is nowhere regarded as a saintly man prior\nto his conversion at the brook Jabbok. After that he appears to us in a\nsaintly character. It is a remarkable fact that Jacob lived 147 years\nall told, eighty-seven of which he lived before he became a polygamist.\nHe lived twenty-two years in polygamy, he lived forty years after\nhe had abandoned polygamy, so that out of 147 years there were only\ntwenty-two years during which he had any connection with polygamy.\n\nI wish my friend had referred to the case of Moses. In his sermon\non celestial marriage he claims that Moses was a polygamist, and\nhe declares that the leprosy that was sent upon Miriam was for her\ninterference with the polygamous marriage of Moses. What are the facts?\nThere is no record of a second marriage. Zipporah is the only name\ngiven as the wife of Moses. What, then, is the assertion made? Simply\nthis: It is recorded: and Moses was content to dwell with Jethro. He\ngave Moses Zipporah, his daughter. Josephus speaks of Jethro having\ntwo daughters, and distinctly says that he gave Moses one of them. In\nNumbers xii and 1st, it is said:\n\n And Miriam and Aaron spake against Moses because of the Ethiopian\n woman whom he had married: for he had married an Ethiopian woman.\n\nNow it is affirmed that two women are here mentioned, whereas nothing\ncan be more untrue. Zipporah and the Ethiopian woman are one and\nidentical; it is one and the same person called by different names. Let\nus see: The father of Zipporah was the priest of Midian; and according\nto the best authorities Midian and Ethiopia are identical terms, and\napply to that portion of Arabia where Jethro lived. So the appellation\nMidian, Ethiopia and Arabia are applied to the Arabian peninsula. See\nAppleton's American Encyclopedia, volumes 6, 7 and 11. Then Moses, the\nJewish law-giver, stands forth as a monogamist, having but one wife.\nMoses was not a polygamist. Surely the founder of a polygamist nation\nand the revealer of a polygamist law, as this gentleman claims, should\nhave set an example, and should have had a dozen or a hundred wives.\nThis son of Jochebed; he was a monogamist, and stands forth as being a\nreproof to polygamists in all generations.\n\nNow we come to Gideon. And what about this man? An angel appeared to\nhim, that is true; but if the practice of polygamy by Gideon is a law\nto us, then the practice of idolatry by Gideon is also a law to us. If\nthere is silence in the Bible touching the polygamy of Gideon, there\nis also silence in the Bible touching his idolatry, and if one is\nsanctioned so also is the other.\n\nI wish my friend had brought up the case of Hannah, the wife of\nElkanah. I can prove to a demonstration that Hannah was the first wife\nof Elkanah; but being barren Elkanah takes another wife. But Hannah, in\nthe anxiety of her heart, pleads to the Almighty, and God honored her\nmotherhood by answering her prayer. It is asked \"Is not this a sanction\nof polygamy?\" Nay, a sanction of monogamy, because she was the first\nwife of Elkanah, and because Elkanah had been guilty of infidelity and\nmarried another wife, was that a reason why Hannah should not have her\nrights from High Heaven, why God Almighty should not answer her prayer?\nYou ask me why did not she pray before. Can you tell me why Isaac did\nnot pray twenty years sooner for his wife, Rebecca, that she might have\nchildren? I can not tell and you can not tell, all that I assert is\nthat Hannah was the first wife of Elkanah, and God honored and blessed\nthe beautiful Samuel.\n\nNow we come to David. Why did not my friend bring up David, the great\nwarrior, king and poet, the ruler of Israel? He might have mentioned\nhim, with ten wives all told; he might also have mentioned him as the\nadulterer, who committed one of the most premeditated, cold-blooded\nmurders on record, simply to cover up his crime of adultery. How often\ndo you hear quoted the words \"and I gave thy master's wives into thy\nbosom!\"? Is this an approval of polygamy? If you will read on you\nwill find also that God also promises to give his (David's) wives to\nanother, and that another should lie with them in the sight of the\nsun. Surely if one is an approval of polygamy the other is an approval\nof rebellion and incest! David lived to be seventy-five years old. He\nwas twenty-seven years old when he took his first wife Michael, the\ndaughter of Saul. For the next forty years we find him complicated with\nthe evils, crimes and sorrows of polygamy; and the old man, seeing its\ngreat sin, thoroughly repented of it and put it away from him, and for\nthe last eight years of his life endeavored to atone, as best he could,\nfor his troubled and guilty experience.\n\nAnd what of Solomon? He is the greatest polygamist--the possessor of\na thousand wives! Had this gentleman told me that Solomon's greatness\nwas predicted, and therefore his polygamic birth was approved, and his\npolygamic marriage also approbated, I can remind him of the fact that\nthe future greatness of Christ was foretold; but the foretelling of\nthe future greatness of the Lord Jesus Christ was not an approval of\nthe betrayal by Judas and the crucifixion by the Jews. Neither was the\nmere foretelling of the future greatness of Solomon an approval of the\npolygamic character of his birth.\n\nI suppose the gentleman on this occasion would have referred to the\nlaw of bastardy and have said, if my doctrine is true, then Solomon\nand others were bastards. I could have wished that he had produced\nthat point. He did quote and declare in this temple, not long since,\nin reference to the law touching bastardy, that a bastard should be\nbranded with infamy to the tenth generation. But it is plain that\nhe has misunderstood the law respecting bastards, as contained in\nDeuteronomy xxiii and 2nd. It is known from history that the same\nsignification has not always been attached to this term. We say a\nbastard is one born out of wedlock, that is monogamous matrimony. In\nAthens, in the days of Pericles, five centuries before Christ, all were\ndeclared bastards by law who were not the children of native Athenians.\nAnd we here assert to-day that the gentleman can not bring forward a\nlaw from the book of Jewish laws to prove that a child born of a Jew\nand Jewess, whether married or not, was a bastard. The only child\nrecognized as a bastard by Jewish law is a child born of a Jew and a\nPagan woman; therefore the objection falls to the ground, and Solomon\nand others, who were not to blame for the character of their birth, are\nexonerated.\n\nThe geometrical progression of evil in this system of polygamy is seen\nin the first three kings, Saul, David and Solomon. Saul had a wife and\na concubine--two women; David had ten women, Solomon had a thousand,\nand it broke the kingdom asunder. God says it was for that very cause.\nHe had multiplied his wives to such an extent, that they had not only\nled him astray from God into idolatry, but the very costliness of his\nharem was a burden upon the people too heavy for them to bear. I said\nthe other day that polygamy might do for kings and priests and nabobs,\nbut could not do for poor men; it costs too much and the people are\ntaxed too much to support the harem.\n\nAh! you bring forward these few cases of polygamy! Name them if you\nplease. Lamech the murderer; Jacob, who deceived his blind old father,\nand robbed his brother of his birthright; David, who seduced another\nman's wife and murdered that man by putting him in front of the\nbattle, and old Solomon, who turned to be an idolater. These are some\npolygamists! Now let me call the roll of honor: There were Adam, Enoch,\nNoah, Abraham, Isaac, Moses, Aaron, Joshua and Joseph and Samuel and\nall the prophets and apostles. You are accustomed to hear, from this\nsacred place, that all the patriarchs and all the kings and all the\nprophets were polygamists. I assert to the contrary, and these great\nand eminent men whom I have just mentioned, belonging to the roll of\nhonor, were monogamists.\n\nYesterday the gentleman gave me three challenges; he challenged me to\nshow that the New Testament condemned polygamy. I now proceed to do it.\nI quote Paul's words, 1st Corinthians, 7th chap., 2nd and 4th verses:\n\n Nevertheless to avoid fornication, let every man have his own wife,\n and let every woman have her own husband.\n\n The wife hath not power of her own body, but the husband; and likewise\n also the husband hath not power of his own body, but the wife.\n\nMarriage is a remedy against fornication, and this is the subject of\nthe chapter. This is the opinion of Clark, Henry, Whitby, Langley and\nothers. One great evil prevailed at Corinth--a community of wives,\nwhich the apostle here calls fornication. St. Paul strikes at the very\nroot of the evil and commands that every man have his own wife and that\nevery woman have her own husband: that is, let every man have his own\npeculiar, proper and appropriate wife, and the wife her own proper,\npeculiar and appropriate husband. In this there is mutual appropriation\nand exclusiveness of right; and this command of Paul agrees with the\nlaw of Moses in Leviticus xviii, 18: \"Neither shalt thou take one wife\nunto another,\" and the two are one statute, clear and unquestionable\nfor monogamy and against polygamy. The apostle teaches the reciprocal\nduties of husband and wife, and the exclusive right of each. In verse\nfour it is distinctly affirmed that the husband has exclusive power\nover the body of his wife, as the wife has exclusive power over the\nbody of her husband. It is universally admitted that this passage\nproves the exclusive right of the husband to the wife, and by parity\nit also proves the exclusive right of the wife to the husband. These\nrelations are mutual, and if the husband can claim a whole wife, the\nwife can claim a whole husband. She has just as good a right to a whole\nhusband as he has a right to a whole wife. First Corinthians, 6th\nchapter, 15th, 16th and 17th verses says:\n\n Know ye not that your bodies are the members of Christ? Shall I then\n take the members of Christ and make them the members of an harlot? God\n forbid.\n\n What! know ye not that he which is joined to an harlot is one body?\n for two (saith he) shall be one flesh.\n\n But he that is joined unto the Lord is one spirit.\n\nThis passage is brought against the idea, but what are the facts? It\nis objected that if one flesh is conclusively expressive of wedlock,\nthat St. Paul affirms that sexual commerce with a harlot is marriage.\nFor argument's sake I accept the assertion. The passage in question is:\n\"What! know ye not that he which is joined to a harlot is one body?\"\n\"For two,\" says he, \"shall be one flesh, but he which is joined to the\nLord is one spirit.\" Now look at the facts of the position, showing\nthe true relation of the believer to Christ. It is illustrated under\nthe figure of marriage. The design of this figure is to show that the\nbeliever becomes one with Christ; and the apostle further explains, in\nreproof of the Corinthians mingling with idolaters and adulterers, that\nby this mingling they become assimilated and identical. He brings up an\nillustration that if a man is married to a harlot, not simply joined,\nbut cohabit with or married to a harlot, he becomes identical with her;\nin other words, one flesh.\n\nThere is a passage which declares that \"a bishop must be blameless, the\nhusband of one wife.\" It is asserted that he must have one wife anyhow\nand as many more as he pleases. It is supposed that this very caution\nindicates the prevalence of polygamy in that day; but no proof can be\nbrought to bear that polygamy prevailed extensively at that time; on\nthe contrary I am prepared to prove that polygamists were not admitted\ninto the Christian Church, for Paul lays down the positive command:\n\"Let every man have his own wife and every woman have her own husband;\"\nso that if you say the former applies to the priest, and the latter,\napplies to the layman, what is good for the priest is good for the\nlayman, and vice versa.\n\nHow often is it asserted here that monogamy has come from the Greeks\nand Romans. But look at the palpable contradiction in the assertion. It\nis asserted that monogamy came from those nations; it is also asserted\nthat polygamy was universal at the time of Christ and his apostles.\nIf monogamy came from the Greeks and Romans, then polygamy could not\nhave been universally prevalent, for it is admitted that at that time\nthe Romans held universal sway, and wherever they held sway their laws\nprevailed, hence the two statements cannot be reconciled.\n\nNow we come to the words of the Savior, Matthew v, 27 and 28; and xix,\n8 and 9, and Mark x, and 11 and 12. At that time, when the Savior was\ndiscoursing with the Pharisees, as recorded in Matthew xix, the Jews\nwere divided as to the interpretation of the law of Moses touching\ndivorce: \"when a man hath taken a wife and married her, and it comes\nto pass that she finds no favor in his eyes because he has found some\nuncleanness in her, then let him write her a bill of divorcement.\" Upon\nthe meaning of the word uncleanness, the Jews differed: some agreed\nwith the school of Rabbi Hillel: that a man might dismiss his wife for\nthe slightest offence, or for no offence at all, if he found another\nwoman that pleased him better; but the school of Rabbi Shammai held\nthat the term uncleanness means moral delinquency. The Pharisees came\nto Christ, hoping to involve him in this controversy; He declined, but\ntook advantage of the opportunity to give them a discourse on marriage,\nand in doing so, he refers to the original institution, saying \"have\nye not read that in the beginning God made them male and female?\" Thus\nHe brings out the great law of monogamy. Grant that the allusion is\nincidental, nevertheless, it is all-important as falling from the lips\nof the Great Master.\n\nI was challenged to show that polygamy is adultery. The gentleman\nchallenged me, and I will now proceed to prove it. As adultery is\ndistinguished in Scripture from whoredom and fornication, it is proper\nto ascertain the exact meaning of the words as used by the sacred\nwriters. The word translated whoredom is from the Hebrew verb Zanah\nand the Greek pornica, and means pollution, defilement, lewdness,\nprostitution and, in common parlance, whoredom, the prostitution of the\nbody for gain. The word translated fornication is from the same Hebrew\nverb, and in general, signifies criminal, sexual intercourse without\nthe formalities of marriage. Adultery is from the Hebrew word Naaph and\nthe Greek word Moicheia, and is the criminal intercourse of a married\nwoman with another man than her husband, or of a married man with\nany other woman than his wife. This is indicated by the philological\nsignificance of the term adulterate, compounded of two words meaning\nto another, as the addition of pure and impure liquors, or of an alloy\nwith pure metal. Adulterer is from the Hebrew Naaph and the Greek\nMoichos, which mean as above.\n\nThe material question to be settled is, Is the Hebrew word Naaph and\nthe Greek word Moichos or Moicheia confined to the criminal sexual\nintercourse between a man, married or unmarried, with a married woman?\nThis is the theory of the Mormon polygamists; but I join issue with\nthem and assert that the Scriptures teach that adultery is committed by\na married man who has sexual intercourse with a woman other than his\nwife, whether said woman is married or unmarried. It is conceded that\nhe is an adulterer who has carnal connection with a woman married or\nbetrothed. Thus far we agree.\n\nNow can it be proved that the sin of adultery is committed by a\nmarried man having carnal connection with a woman neither married nor\nbetrothed! To prove this point I argue:\n\nFirst, that the Hebrew word Naaph, translated in the seventh\ncommandment, adultery, does include all criminal sexual intercourse.\nIt is a generic term and the whole includes the parts. It is like the\nword kill in the sixth commandment, which includes all those passions\nand emotions of the human soul which lead to murder, such as jealousy,\nenvy, malice, hatred, revenge. So this word Naaph includes whoredom,\nfornication, adultery, and even salacial lust. Matthew v, 27, 29.\n\nSecond. The terms adultery and fornication are used interchangeably by\nour Lord, and mean the same thing. A married woman copulating with a\nman other than her husband is admitted to be adultery, but the highest\nauthority we can bring forward calls the act fornication. Matthew v, 3,\n2. Romans vii, 2, 3. 1st Corinthians vii, 1, 4.\n\nThird. The carnal connection of a man with an unmarried woman is\npositively declared to be adultery in God's holy word. It is so\nrecorded in Job xxiv, from the 15th to the 21st verse; and in Isaiah\nlvii and 3rd it is taught that the adulterer commits his sin with the\nwhore. Therefore I conclude that the term Naaph, as used in the seventh\ncommandment, comprehends all those modifications of that crime, down to\nthe salacial lust that a man may feel in his soul for a woman.\n\nBut it may be asked: If this is so, why then, does the Mosiac law\nmention a married woman? We deny that such a distinction is made.\nWe do admit, however, that special penalties were pronounced on\nsuch an action with a married woman, but for special reasons. What\nwere they? To preserve the genealogy, parentage and birth of Christ\nfrom interruption and confusion, which were in imminent danger when\nintercourse with a married woman was had by a man other than her\nhusband. And no such danger could arise from the intercourse with\na married man with an unmarried woman. That law was temporary, and\nwas abolished and passed away when Christ came. Under the Jewish\ndispensation he that cohabited with a woman other than his wife was\nresponsible to God for the violation of the seventh commandment; the\nwoman was also responsible to God for the violation of the seventh\ncommandment and this special law. But here you say if this be true,\nthen some great men in Bible times were guilty of the violation of\nthe seventh commandment. I say they were; but they were not all\npolygamists: that I have demonstrated to you to-day. But take the\nfacts: Abraham, when convinced of his sin, put away Hagar; Jacob lived\nseveral years out of the state of polygamy; David put away all his\nwives eight years before he died; and if there is no account that\nSolomon put away his, neither is there the assurance that he abandoned\nhis idolatry.\n\nThis then, my friend, is the argument; and as a Christian minister,\ndesiring only your good, I proclaim the fact that polygamy is adultery.\nI do it in all kindness, but I assert it as a doctrine taught in the\nBible.\n\nI am challenged again to prove that polygamy is no prevention of\nprostitution. It has been affirmed time and time again, not only in\nthis discussion, but in the written works of these distinguished\ngentlemen around me, that in monogamic countries prostitution, or\nwhat is known as the social evil, is almost universally prevalent. I\nperceive that I have not time to follow out this in arguments; but I\nam prepared to prove, and I will prove it in your daily papers, that\nprostitution is as old as authentic history; that prostitution has been\nand is to-day more prevalent in polygamic countries than in monogamic\ncountries. I can prove that the figures representing prostitution in\nmonogamic countries are all overdrawn. They are overdrawn in regard to\nmy native city, that the gentleman brought up, New York, and of the\nmillion and over of population he can not find six thousand recorded\nprostitutes. I can go, for instance, to St. Louis, where they have just\ntaken the census of the prostitutes of that city, and with a population\nof three hundred thousand, there are but 650 courtesans. You may go\nthrough the length and breadth of this land, and in villages containing\nfrom one thousand to ten thousand inhabitants, you cannot find a house\nof prostitution. The truth is, my friends, they would not allow it for\na moment. Those men who assert that our monogamous country is full of\nprostitutes put forth a slander upon our country.\n\nOur distinguished friend referred to religious liberty, and claimed\nthat he had a right under the Federal Constitution to enjoy religious\nliberty and to practise polygamy. I am proud as he is that we have\nreligious liberty here. I rejoice that a man can worship God after\nhis own heart; but I affirm that the law of limitation is no less\napplicable to religious liberty than it is to the revolution of the\nheavenly bodies. The law of limitation is as universal as creation, and\nreligious liberty must be practised within the bounds of decency, and\nthe wellbeing of society; and civil authority may extend or restrict\nthis religious liberty within due bounds. Why, the Hindoo mother may\ncome here with her Shasta--with her Bible--and she may throw her babe\ninto your river or lake, and the civil authorities, according to your\ntheory, could not interpose and say to that mother, \"You shall not do\nit.\" That is the theory. You say it is murder, I say it is not. I say\nthe act is stripped of the attributes of murder; it is a religious act.\nShe turns to her bible or Shasta, and says: \"I am commanded to do this\nby my bible.\" What will you do? You will turn away from the Shasta and\nsay, \"The interests of society demand that you shall not murder that\nchild.\" So civil government has the right to legislate in regard to\nmarriage, and restrict the number of wives to one, according to God's\nlaw. But I am not an advocate of stringent legislation. I agree with\nmy friend, that the law should not incarcerate men, women and children\nin dungeons! No, my friends, if I can say a word to induce humane and\nkind legislation toward the people of Utah I shall do it, and do it\nmost gladly. But I assert this principle, that civil government has the\nright to limit religious liberty within due bounds.\n\nThere was another point that I desired to touch upon, and that is as\nto the longevity of nations. We are told repeatedly here, in printed\nworks, that monogamic nations are short-lived, and that polygamic\nnations are long-lived. I am prepared to go back to the days of Nimrod,\ncome down to the days of Ninus Sardanapalus, and down to the days of\nCyrus the Great, and all through those ancient polygamic nations, and\nshow that they were short-lived; while on the other hand I am prepared\nto prove that Greece and Rome outlived the longest-lived polygamic\nnations of the past. Greece, from the days of Homer down to the third\ncentury of the Christian era; and Rome at from seven hundred and fifty\nyears before the coming of Christ down to the dissolution of the old\nempire. But that old empire finds a resurrection in the Italians under\nVictor Emanuel and Garibaldi; and England, Germany and France are all\nproofs of the longevity of monogamic nations. Babylon is a ruin to-day,\nand Babylon was polygamic. Egypt, to-day, is a ruin! Her massy piles\nof ruin bespeak her former glory and her pristine beauty. And the last\nedition of the polygamic nations--Turkey--is passing away. From the\nGolden Horn and the Bosphorus, from the Danube, and the Jordan and the\nNile, the power of Mahommedanism is passing away before the advance of\nthe monogamic nations of the old world. Our own country is just in its\nyouth; but monogamic as it is, it is destined to live on, to outlive\nthe hoary past, to live on in its greatness, in its benificence, in its\npower; to live on until it has demonstrated all those great problems\ncommitted to our trust for human rights, religion, liberty and the\nadvancement of the race.\n\nMy friends, these are the arguments in favor of Monogamy; and when they\ncan be overthrown, then it will be time enough for us to receive the\nsystem of Polygamy as it is taught here. But until that great law that\nwe have quoted can be proved to be not a law: until it can be proved\nthat there is no distinction between law and practice; until it can be\nproved that there is a positive command for polygamy; until it can be\nproved that Christ did not refer to the original marriage; until it\ncan be proved that Paul does not demand that every man shall have his\nown wife and every woman her own husband; until it can be proved that\npolygamy is a prevention of prostitution; until it can be proved that\nmonogamic nations are not as long-lived as polygamous nations; until\nit can be proved that monogamy is not in harmony with civil liberty;\nuntil all these points can be demonstrated beyond a doubt; until then,\nwe can't give up this grand idea that God's law condemns polygamy,\nand that God's law commends monogamy; that the highest interests of\nman, that the dearest interests of the rising generation, that all\nthat binds us to earth and points us to heaven are not subserved and\npromoted under the monogamic system. All these great interests demand\nthe practice of monogamy in marriage--one man and one wife. Then indeed\nshall be realized the picture portrayed in Scripture of the happy\nfamily--the family where the wife is one and the husband one, and the\ntwo are equivalent; then, when father and mother, centered in the\nfamily, shall bring up their children in the nurture and admonition of\nthe Lord--when the husband provides for his family--and it is said that\nthe man who does not is worse than an infidel--then indeed monogamy\nstands forth as a grand Bible doctrine.\n\n\n\nDISCOURSE\n\nON\n\nCELESTIAL MARRIAGE,\n\nDELIVERED BY\n\nELDER ORSON PRATT,\n\nIN THE\n\nNEW TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY, OCTOBER 7th, 1869.\n\nIt was announced at the close of the forenoon meeting that I would\naddress the congregation this afternoon upon the subject of Celestial\nMarriage; I do so with the greatest pleasure.\n\nIn the first place, let us enquire whether it is lawful and right,\naccording to the Constitution of our country, to examine and practise\nthis Bible doctrine? Our fathers, who framed the Constitution of our\ncountry, devised it so as to give freedom of religious worship of the\nAlmighty God; so that all people under our Government should have the\ninalienable right--a right by virtue of the Constitution--to believe in\nany Bible principle which the Almighty has revealed in any age of the\nworld to the human family. I do not think however that our forefathers,\nin framing that instrument, intended to embrace all the religions\nof the world. I mean the idolatrous and pagan religions. They say\nnothing about those religions in the Constitution; but they give the\nexpress privilege in that instrument to all people dwelling under this\nGovernment and under the institutions of our country, to believe in all\nthings which the Almighty has revealed to the human family. There is no\nrestriction or limitation, so far as Bible religion is concerned, on\nany principle or form of religion believed to have emanated from the\nAlmighty; but yet they would not admit idolatrous nations to come here\nand practise their religion, because it is not included in the Bible;\nit is not the religion of the Almighty. Those people worship idols, the\nwork of their own hands; they have instituted rights and ceremonies\npertaining to those idols, in the observance of which they, no doubt,\nsuppose they are worshipping correctly and sincerely, yet some of them\nare of the most revolting and barbarous character. Such, for instance,\nas the offering up of a widow on a funeral pile, as a burnt sacrifice,\nin order to follow her husband into the eternal worlds. That is no part\nof the religion mentioned in the Constitution of our country, it is no\npart of the religion of Almighty God.\n\nBut confining ourselves within the limits of the Constitution, and\ncoming back to the religion of the Bible, we have the privilege to\nbelieve in the Patriarchal, in the Mosaic, or in the Christian order of\nthings; for the God of the patriarchs, and the God of Moses is also the\nChristians' God.\n\nIt is true that many laws were given, under the Patriarchal or Mosaic\ndispensations, against certain crimes, the penalties for violating\nwhich, religious bodies, under our Constitution, have not the right to\ninflict. The Government has reserved, in its own hands, the power, so\nfar as affixing the penalties of certain crimes is concerned.\n\nIn ancient times there was a law strictly enforcing the observance\nof the Sabbath day, and the man or woman who violated that law was\nsubjected to the punishment of death. Ecclesiastical bodies have the\nright, under our government and Constitution, to observe the Sabbath\nday, or to disregard it, but they have not the right to inflict\ncorporeal punishment for its non-observance.\n\nThe subject proposed to be investigated this afternoon is that of\nCelestial Marriage, as believed in by the Latter-day Saints, and which\nthey claim is strictly a Bible doctrine and part of the revealed\nreligion of the Almighty. It is well known by all the Latter-day Saints\nthat we have not derived all our knowledge concerning God, heaven,\nangels, this life and the life to come, entirely from the books of the\nBible; yet we believe that all of our religious principles and notions\nare in accordance with and are sustained by the Bible; consequently,\nthough we believe in new revelation, and believe that God has revealed\nmany things pertaining to our religion, we also believe that He has\nrevealed none that are inconsistent with the worship of Almighty\nGod, a sacred right guaranteed to all religious denominations by the\nConstitution of our country.\n\nGod created man, male and female. He is the author of our existence.\nHe placed us on this creation. He ordained laws to govern us. He gave\nto man, whom he created, a help-meet--a woman, a wife to be one with\nhim, to be a joy and a comfort to him; and also for another very great\nand wise purpose--namely, that the human species might be propagated\non this creation, that the earth might teem with population according\nto the decree of God before the foundation of the world; that the\nintelligent spirits whom He had formed and created, before this world\nwas rolled into existence, might have their probation, might have an\nexistence in fleshly bodies on this planet, and be governed by laws\nemanating from their Great Creator. In the breast of male and female\nhe established certain qualities and attributes that never will be\neradicated--namely love towards each other. Love comes from God. The\nlove which man possesses for the opposite sex came from God. The same\nGod who created the two sexes implanted in the hearts of each love\ntowards the other. What was the object of placing this passion or\naffection within the hearts of male and female? It was in order to\ncarry out, so far as this world was concerned, His great and eternal\npurposes pertaining to the future. But He not only did establish this\nprinciple in the heart of man and woman, but gave divine laws to\nregulate them in relation to this passion or affection, that they might\nbe limited and prescribed in the exercise of it towards each other.\nHe therefore ordained the Marriage Institution. The marriage that was\ninstituted in the first place was between two immortal beings, hence it\nwas marriage for eternity in the very first case which we have recorded\nfor an example. Marriage for eternity was the order God instituted on\nour globe; as early as the Garden of Eden, as early as the day when\nour first parents were placed in the garden to keep it and till it,\nthey, as two immortal beings, were united in the bonds of the New and\nEverlasting Covenant. This was before man fell, before the forbidden\nfruit was eaten, and before the penalty of death was pronounced upon\nthe heads of our first parents and all their posterity, hence, when God\ngave to Adam his wife Eve, He gave her to him as an immortal wife, and\nthere was no end contemplated of the relation they held to each other\nas husband and wife.\n\nBy and bye, after this marriage had taken place, they transgressed the\nlaw of God, and by reason of that transgression the penalty of death\ncame, not only upon them, but also upon all their posterity. Death,\nin its operations, tore asunder, as it were, these two beings who had\nhitherto been immortal, and if God had not, before the foundation of\nthe world, provided a plan of redemption, they would perhaps have been\ntorn asunder forever; but inasmuch as a plan of redemption had been\nprovided, by which man could be rescued from the effects of the Fall,\nAdam and Eve were restored to that condition of union, in respect to\nimmortality, from which they had been separated for a short season of\ntime by death. The Atonement reached after them and brought forth their\nbodies from the dust, and restored them as husband and wife, to all the\nprivileges that were pronounced upon them before the Fall.\n\nThat was eternal marriage; that was lawful marriage ordained by God.\nThat was the divine institution which was revealed and practised in\nthe early period of our globe. How has it been since that day? Mankind\nhave strayed from that order of things, or, at least, they have done\nso in latter times. We hear nothing among the religious societies of\nthe world which profess to believe in the Bible about this marriage for\neternity. It is among the things which are obsolete. Now all marriages\nare consummated until death only; they do not believe in that great\npattern and prototype established in the beginning; hence we never hear\nof their official characters, whether civil or religious, uniting men\nand women in the capacity of husband and wife as immortal beings. No,\nthey marry as mortal beings only, and until death does them part.\n\nWhat is to become of them after death? What will take place among all\nthose nations who have been marrying for centuries for time only? Do\nboth men and women receive a resurrection? Do they come forth with all\nthe various affections, attributes and passions that God gave them in\nthe beginning? Does the male come forth from the grave with all the\nattributes of a man? Does the female come forth from her grave with\nall the attributes of a woman? If so, what is their future destiny?\nIs there no object or purpose in this new creation save to give them\nlife, a state of existence? or is there a more important object in view\nin the mind of God, in thus creating them anew? Will that principle\nof love which exists now, and which has existed from the beginning,\nexist after the resurrection? I mean this sexual love. If that existed\nbefore the Fall, and if it has existed since then, will it exist in\nthe eternal worlds after the resurrection? This is a very important\nquestion to be decided.\n\nWe read in the revelations of God that there are various classes of\nbeings in the eternal worlds. There are some who are kings, priests,\nand Gods, others that are angels; and also among them are the orders\ndenominated celestial, terrestrial, and telestial. God, however,\naccording to the faith of the Latter-day Saints, has ordained that\nthe highest order and class of beings that should exist in the\neternal worlds should exist in the capacity of husbands and wives,\nand that they alone should have the privilege of propagating their\nspecies--intelligent, immortal beings. Now it is wise, no doubt, in\nthe Great Creator to thus limit this great and Heavenly principle to\nthose who have arrived or come to the highest state of exaltation,\nexcellency, wisdom, knowledge, power, glory and faithfulness, to dwell\nin his presence, that they by this means shall be prepared to bring up\ntheir spirit offspring in all pure and holy principles in the eternal\nworlds, in order that they may be made happy. Consequently he does not\nentrust this privilege of multiplying spirits with the terrestrial\nor telestial, or the lower order of beings there, nor with angels.\nBut why not? Because they have not proved themselves worthy of this\ngreat privilege. We might reason, of the eternal worlds, as some of\nthe enemies of polygamy reason of this state of existence, and say\nthat there are just as many males as females there, some celestial,\nsome terrestrial and some telestial; and why not have all these paired\noff, two by two? Because God administers His gifts and His blessings\nto those who are most faithful, giving them more bountifully to the\nfaithful, and taking away from the unfaithful that with which they had\nbeen entrusted, and which they had not improved upon. That is the order\nof God in the eternal worlds, and if such an order exist there, it may\nin a degree exist here.\n\nWhen the sons and daughters of the Most High God come forth in the\nmorning of the resurrection, this principle of love will exist in\ntheir bosoms just as it exists here, only intensified according to the\nincreased knowledge and understanding which they possess; hence they\nwill be capacitated to enjoy the relationships of husband and wife, of\nparents and children a hundred fold degree greater than they could in\nmortality. We are not capable, while surrounded with the weaknesses\nof our flesh, to enjoy these eternal principles in the same degree\nthat will then exist. Shall these principles of conjugal and parental\nlove and affection be thwarted in the eternal worlds? Shall they be\nrooted out and overcome? No, most decidedly not. According to the\nreligious notions of the world these principles will not exist after\nthe resurrection; but our religion teaches the fallacy of such notions.\nIt is true that we read in the New Testament that in the resurrection\nthey neither marry nor are given in marriage, but are as the angels\nin heaven. These are the words of our Savior when He was addressing\nhimself to a very wicked class of people, the Sadducees, a portion of\nthe Jewish nation, who rejected Jesus, and the counsel of God against\ntheir own souls. They had not attained to the blessings and privileges\nof their fathers, but had apostatized; and Jesus, in speaking to them,\nsays that in the resurrection they neither marry nor are given in\nmarriage but are as the angels of God.\n\nI am talking, to-day, to Latter-day Saints; I am not reasoning with\nunbelievers. If I were, I should appeal more fully to the Old Testament\nScriptures to bring in arguments and testimonies to prove the divine\nauthenticity of polygamic marriages. Perhaps I may touch upon this for\na few moments, for the benefit of strangers, should there be any in our\nmidst. Let me say, then, that God's people, under every dispensation\nsince the creation of the world, have, generally, been polygamists.\nI say this for the benefit of strangers. According to the good old\nbook, called the Bible, when God saw proper to call out Abraham from\nall the heathen nations, and made him a great man in the world, He saw\nproper, also, to make him a polygamist, and approbated him in taking\nunto himself more wives than one. Was it wrong in Abraham to do this\nthing? If it were, when did God reprove him for so doing? When did He\never reproach Jacob for doing the same thing? Who can find the record\nin the lids of the Bible of God reproving Abraham, as being a sinner,\nand having committed a crime, in taking to himself two living wives?\nNo such thing is recorded. He was just as much blessed after doing\nthis thing as before, and more so, for God promised blessings upon the\nissue of Abraham by his second wife the same as that of the first wife,\nproviding he was equally faithful. This was a proviso in every case.\n\nWhen we come down to Jacob, the Lord permitted him to take four wives.\nThey are so called in holy writ. They are not denominated prostitutes,\nneither are they called concubines, but they are called wives, legal\nwives; and to show that God approved of the course of Jacob in taking\nthese wives, He blessed them abundantly, and hearkened to the prayer of\nthe second wife just the same as to the first. Rachel was the second\nwife of Jacob, and our great mother, for you know that many of the\nLatter-day Saints by revelation know themselves to be the descendants\nof Joseph, and he was the son of Rachel, the second wife of Jacob.\nGod in a peculiar manner blessed the posterity of this second wife.\nInstead of condemning the old patriarch, He ordained that Joseph, the\nfirst-born of this second wife, should be considered the first-born\nof all the twelve tribes, and into his hands was given the double\nbirthright, according to the laws of the ancients. And yet he was\nthe offspring of plurality--of the second wife of Jacob. Of course,\nif Reuben, who was indeed, the first-born unto Jacob, had conducted\nhimself properly, he might have retained the birthright and the greater\ninheritance; but he lost that through his transgression, and it was\ngiven to a polygamic child, who had the privilege of inheriting the\nblessing to the utmost bounds of the everlasting hills; the great\ncontinent of North and South America was conferred upon him. Another\nproof that God did not disapprove of a man having more wives than one,\nis to be found in the fact that, Rachel, after she had been a long time\nbarren, prayed to the Lord to give her seed. The Lord hearkened to her\ncry and granted her prayer; and when she received seed from the Lord by\nher polygamic husband, she exclaimed--\"the Lord hath hearkened unto me\nand hath answered my prayer.\" Now do you think the Lord would have done\nthis if He had considered polygamy a crime? Would He have hearkened to\nthe prayer of this woman if Jacob had been living with her in adultery?\nand he certainly was doing so if the ideas of this generation are\ncorrect.\n\nAgain, what says the Lord in the days of Moses, under another\ndispensation? We have seen that in the days of Abraham, Isaac and\nJacob, He approved of polygamy and blessed His servants who practised\nit, and also their wives and children. Now, let us come down to the\ndays of Moses. We read that, on a certain occasion, the sister of\nMoses, Miriam, and certain others in the great congregation of Israel,\ngot very jealous. What were they jealous about? About the Ethiopian\nwoman that Moses had taken to wife, in addition to the daughter of\nJethro, whom he had taken before in the land of Midian. How dare the\ngreat law-giver, after having committed, according to the ideas of the\npresent generation, a great crime, show his face on Mount Sinai when it\nwas clothed with the glory of the God of Israel? But what did the Lord\ndo in the case of Miriam, for finding fault with her brother Moses?\nInstead of saying \"you are right, Miriam, he has committed a great\ncrime, and no matter how much you speak against him,\" He smote her with\na leprosy the very moment she began to complain, and she was considered\nunclean for a certain number of days. Here the Lord manifested, by the\ndisplay of a signal judgment, that He disapproved of any one speaking\nagainst His servants for taking more wives than one, because it may not\nhappen to suit their notion of things.\n\nI make these remarks and wish to apply them to fault-finders against\nplural marriages in our day. Are there any Miriams in our congregation\nto-day, any of those who, professing to belong to the Israel of\nthe latter-days, sometimes find fault with the man of God standing\nat their head, because he, not only believes in but practises this\ndivine institution of the ancients? If there be such in our midst, I\nsay, remember Miriam the very next time you begin to talk with your\nneighboring women, or any body else against this holy principle.\nRemember the awful curse and judgment that fell on the sister of Moses\nwhen she did the same thing, and then fear and tremble before God, lest\nHe, in his wrath, may swear that you shall not enjoy the blessings\nordained for those who inherit the highest degree of glory.\n\nLet us pass along to another instance under the dispensation of Moses.\nThe Lord says, on a certain occasion, if a man have married two wives,\nand he should happen to hate one and love the other, is he to be\npunished--cast out and stoned to death as an adulterer? No; instead of\nthe Lord denouncing him as an adulterer because of having two wives, He\ngave a commandment regulating the matter so that this principle of hate\nin the mind of the man towards one of his wives should not control him\nin the important question of the division of his inheritance among his\nchildren, compelling him to give just as much to the son of the hated\nwife as to the son of the one beloved; and, if the son of the hated\nwoman happened to be the first-born, he should actually inherit the\ndouble portion.\n\nConsequently, the Lord approved, not only the two wives, but their\nposterity also. Now, if the women had not been considered wives by\nthe Lord, their children would have been bastards, and you know that\nHe has said that bastards shall not enter into the congregation of\nthe Lord, until the tenth generation, hence you see there is a great\ndistinction between those whom the Lord calls legitimate or legal, and\nthose who were bastards--begotten in adultery and whoredom. The latter,\nwith their posterity, were shut out of the congregation of the Lord\nuntil the tenth generation, while the former were exalted to all the\nprivileges of legitimate birthright.\n\nAgain, under that same law and dispensation, we find that the Lord\nprovided for another contingency among the hosts of Israel. In order\nthat the inheritances of the families of Israel might not run into\nthe hands of strangers, the Lord, in the book of Deuteronomy, gives a\ncommand that if a man die, leaving a wife, but no issue, his brother\nshall marry his widow and take possession of the inheritance; and to\nprevent this inheritance going out of the family a strict command\nwas given that the widow should marry the brother or nearest living\nkinsman of her deceased husband. The law was in full force at the time\nof the introduction of Christianity--a great many centuries after\nit was given. The reasoning of the Sadducees on one occasion when\nconversing with Jesus proves that the law was then observed. Said\nthey: \"There were seven brethren who all took a certain woman, each\none taking her in succession after the death of the other,\" and they\ninquired of Jesus which of the seven would have her for a wife in the\nresurrection. The Sadducees, no doubt, used this figure to prove, as\nthey thought, the fallacy of the doctrine of the resurrection, but it\nalso proves that this law, given by the Creator while Israel walked\nacceptably before Him, was acknowledged by their wicked descendants\nin the days of the Savior. I merely quote the passage to show that\nthe law was not considered obsolete at that time. A case like this,\nwhen six of the brethren had died, leaving the widow without issue,\nthe seventh, whether married or unmarried, must fulfill this law\nand take the widow to wife, or lay himself liable to a very severe\npenalty. What was that penalty? According to the testimony of the law\nof Moses he would be cursed, for Moses says--\"cursed be he that doth\nnot all things according as it is written in this book of the law, and\nlet all the people say Amen.\" There can be no doubt that many men in\nthose days were compelled to be polygamists in the fulfillment of this\nlaw, for any man who would not take the childless wife of a deceased\nbrother and marry her, would come under tho tremendous curse recorded\nin the book of Deuteronomy, and all the people would be obliged to\nsanction the curse, because he would not obey the law of God and\nbecome a polygamist. They were not all congressmen in those days, nor\nPresidents, nor Presbyterians, nor Methodists, nor Roman Catholics; but\nthey were the people of God, governed by divine law, and were commanded\nto be polygamists; not merely suffered to be so, but actually commanded\nto be.\n\nThere are some Latter-day Saints who, perhaps, have not searched these\nthings as they ought, hence we occasionally find some who will say that\nGod suffered these things to be. I will go further, and say that He\ncommanded them, and He pronounced a curse, to which all the people had\nto say amen, if they did not fulfill the commandment.\n\nComing down to the days of the prophets we find that they were\npolygamists; also to the days of the kings of Israel, whom God\nappointed Himself, and approbated and blessed. This was especially the\ncase with one of them, named David, who, the Lord said, was a man after\nHis own heart. David was called when yet a youth, to reign over the\nwhole twelve tribes of Israel; But Saul, the reigning king of Israel,\npersecuted him, and sought to take away his life. David fled from city\nto city throughout all the coasts of Judea in order to get beyond the\nreach of the relentless persecutions of Saul. While thus fleeing, the\nLord was with him, hearing his prayers, answering his petitions, giving\nhim line upon line, precept upon precept; permitting him to look into\nthe Urim and Thummin and receive revelations, which enabled him to\nescape from his enemies.\n\nIn addition to all these blessing that God bestowed upon him in his\nyouth, before he was exalted to the throne, He gave him eight wives;\nand after exalting him to the throne, instead of denouncing him for\nhaving many wives, and pronouncing him worthy of fourteen or twenty-one\nyears of imprisonment, the Lord was with His servant David, and,\nthinking he had not wives enough, He gave to him all the wives of his\nmaster Saul, in addition to the eight He had previously given him. Was\nthe Lord to be considered a criminal, and worthy of being tried in a\ncourt of justice and sent to prison for thus increasing the polygamic\nrelations of David? No, certainly not; it was in accordance with his\nown righteous laws, and He was with His servant, David the king, and\nblessed him. By and by, when David transgressed, not in taking other\nwives, but in taking the wife of another man, the anger of the Lord\nwas kindled against him and He chastened him and took away all the\nblessings He had given him. All the wives David had received from\nthe hand of God were taken from him. Why? Because he had committed\nadultery. Here then is a great distinction between adultery and\nplurality of wives. One brings honor and blessing to those who engage\nin it, the other degradation and death.\n\nAfter David had repented with all his heart of his crime with the wife\nof Uriah, he, notwithstanding the number of wives he had previously\ntaken, took Bathsheba legally, and by that legal marriage Solomon was\nborn; the child born of her unto David, begotten illegally, being a\nbastard, displeased the Lord and He struck it with death; but with\nSolomon, a legal issue from the same woman, the Lord was so pleased\nthat he ordained Solomon and set him on the throne of his father David.\nThis shows the difference between the two classes of posterity, the one\nbegotten illegally, the other in the order of marriage. If Solomon had\nbeen a bastard, as this pious generation would have us suppose, instead\nof being blessed of the Lord and raised to the throne of his father,\nhe would have been banished from the congregation of Israel and his\nseed after him for ten generations. But, notwithstanding that he was\nso highly blessed and honored of the Lord, there was room for him to\ntransgress and fall, and in the end he did so. For a long time the Lord\nblessed Solomon, but eventually he violated that law which the Lord had\ngiven forbidding Israel to take wives from the idolatrous nations, and\nsome of these wives succeeded in turning his heart from the Lord and\ninduced him to worship the heathen gods, and the Lord was angry with\nhim and, as it is recorded in the Book of Mormon, considered the acts\nof Solomon an abomination in His sight.\n\nLet us now come to the record in the Book of Mormon, when the Lord led\nforth Lehi and Nephi, and Ishmael and his two sons and five daughters\nout of the land of Jerusalem to the land of America. The males and\nfemales were about equal in number: there were Nephi, Sam, Laman and\nLemuel, the four sons of Lehi, and Zoram, brought out of Jerusalem.\nHow many daughters of Ishmael were unmarried? Just five. Would if\nhave been just under these circumstances, to ordain plurality among\nthem? No. Why? Because the males and females were equal in number and\nthey were all under the guidance of the Almighty, hence it would have\nbeen unjust, and the Lord gave a revelation--the only one on record I\nbelieve--in which a command was ever given to any branch of Israel to\nbe confined to the monogamic system. In this case the Lord, through His\nservant Lehi, gave a command that they should have but one wife. The\nLord had a perfect right to vary His commands in this respect according\nto circumstances, as He did in others, as recorded in the Bible. There\nwe find that the domestic relations were governed according to the mind\nand will of God, and were varied according to circumstances, as He\nthought proper.\n\nBy and by, after the death of Lehi, some of his posterity began to\ndisregard the strict law that God had given to their father, and took\nmore wives than one, and the Lord put them in mind, through His servant\nJacob, one of the sons of Lehi, of this law, and told them that they\nwere transgressing it, and then referred to David and Solomon, as\nhaving committed abomination in his sight. The Bible also tells us that\nthey sinned in the sight of God; not in taking wives legally but only\nin those they took illegally, in doing which they brought wrath and\ncondemnation upon their heads.\n\nBut because the Lord dealt thus with the small branch of the House of\nIsrael that came to America, under their peculiar circumstances, there\nare those at the present day who will appeal to this passage in the\nBook of Mormon as something universally applicable in regard to man's\ndomestic relations. The same God that commanded one branch of the\nHouse of Israel in America, to take but one wife when the numbers of\nthe two sexes were about equal, gave a different command to the hosts\nof Israel in Palestine. But let us see the qualifying clause given in\nthe Book of Mormon on this subject. After having reminded the people\nof the commandment delivered by Lehi, in regard to monogamy, the Lord\nsays--\"For if I will raise up seed unto me I will command my people,\notherwise they shall hearken unto these things;\" that is, if I will\nraise up seed among my people of the House of Israel, according to\nthe law that exists among the tribes of Israel, I will give them a\ncommandment on the subject, but if I do not give this commandment they\nshall hearken to the law which I give unto their father Lehi. That is\nthe meaning of the passage, and this very passage goes to prove that\nplurality was a principle God did approve under circumstances when it\nwas authorized by Him.\n\nIn the early rise of this church, February, 1831, God gave a\ncommandment to its members, recorded in the Book of Covenants, wherein\nHe says--\"Thou shalt love thy wife with all thy heart, and shalt cleave\nunto her and to none else;\" and then He gives a strict law against\nadultery. This you have, no doubt, all read; but let me ask whether\nthe Lord had the privilege and the right to vary from this law. It was\ngiven in 1831, when the one-wife system alone prevailed among this\npeople. I will tell you what the Prophet Joseph said in relation to\nthis matter in 1831, also in 1832, the year in which the law commanding\nthe members of this church to cleave to one wife only was given. Joseph\nwas then living in Portage County, in the town of Hyrum, at the house\nof Father John Johnson. Joseph was very intimate with that family, and\nthey were good people at that time, and enjoyed much of the spirit of\nthe Lord. In the fore part of the year 1832, Joseph told individuals,\nthen in the Church, that he, had enquired of the Lord concerning the\nprinciple of plurality of wives, and he received for answer that the\nprinciple of taking more wives than one is a true principle, but the\ntime had not yet come for it to be practised. That was before the\nChurch was two years old. The Lord has His own time to do all things\npertaining to His purposes in the last dispensation. His own time for\nrestoring all things that have been predicted by the ancient prophets.\nIf they have predicted that the day would come when seven women would\ntake hold of one man saying--\"We will eat our own bread and wear\nour own apparel, only let us be called by thy name to take away our\nreproach;\" and that, in that day the branch of the Lord should be\nbeautiful and glorious and the fruits of the earth should be excellent\nand comely, the Lord has the right to say when that time shall be.\n\nNow, supposing the members of this Church had undertaken to vary from\nthat law given in 1831, to love their one wife with all their hearts\nand to cleave to none other, they would have come under the curse\nand condemnation of God's holy law. Some twelve years after that\ntime the revelation on Celestial Marriage was revealed. This is just\nrepublished at the Deseret News office, in a pamphlet entitled \"Answers\nto Questions,\" by President George A. Smith, and heretofore has been\npublished in pamphlet form and in the Millennial Star, and sent\nthroughout the length and breadth of our country, being included in our\nworks and published in the works of our enemies. Then came the Lord's\ntime for this holy and ennobling principle to be practised again among\nHis people.\n\nWe have not time to read the revelation this afternoon; suffice it to\nsay that God revealed the principle through His servant Joseph in 1843.\nIt was known by many individuals while the Church was yet in Illinois;\nand though it was not then printed, it was a familiar thing through all\nthe streets of Nauvoo, and indeed throughout all Hancock county. Did I\nhear about it? I verily did. Did my brethren of the Twelve know about\nit? They certainly did. Were there any females who knew about it? There\ncertainly were, for some received the revelation and entered into the\npractice of the principle. Some may say, \"Why was it not printed, and\nmade known to the people generally, if it was of such importance?\" I\nreply by asking another question: Why did not the revelations in the\nbook of Doctrine and Covenants come to us in print years before they\ndid? Why were they shut up in Joseph's cupboard years and years without\nbeing suffered to be printed and sent broadcast throughout the land?\nBecause the Lord had again His own time to accomplish His purposes, and\nHe suffered the revelations to be printed just when He saw proper. He\ndid not suffer the revelation on the great American war to be published\nuntil sometime after it was given. So in regard to the revelation\non plurality, it was only a short time after Joseph's death that we\npublished it, having a copy thereof. But what became of the original?\nAn apostate destroyed it; you have heard her name. That same woman,\nin destroying the original, thought she had destroyed the revelation\nfrom the face of the earth. She was embittered against Joseph, her\nhusband, and at times fought against him with all her heart: and then\nagain she would break down in her feelings, and humble herself before\nGod and call upon His holy name, and would then lead forth ladies and\nplace their hands in the hands of Joseph, and they were married to\nhim according to the law of God. That same woman has brought up her\nchildren to believe that no such thing as plurality of wives existed\nin the days of Joseph, and has instilled the bitterest principles of\napostasy into their minds, to fight against the Church that has come to\nthese mountains according to the predictions of Joseph.\n\nIn the year 1844, before his death, a large company was organized\nto come and search out a location, west of the Rocky Mountains. We\nhave been fulfilling and carrying out his predictions in coming here\nand since our arrival. The course pursued by this woman shows what\napostates can do, and how wicked they can become in their hearts. When\nthey apostatize from the truth they can come out and swear before\nGod and the heavens that such and such things never existed, when\nthey know, as well as they know they exist themselves, that they are\nswearing falsely. Why do they do this? Because they have no fear of\nGod before their eyes; because they have apostatized from the truth;\nbecause they have taken it upon themselves to destroy the revelations\nof the Most High, and to banish them from the face of the earth, and\nthe Spirit of God withdraws from them. We have come here to these\nmountains, and have continued to practise the principle of Celestial\nMarriage from the day the revelation was given until the present time;\nand we are a polygamic people, and a great people, comparatively\nspeaking, considering the difficult circumstances under which we came\nto this land.\n\nLet us speak for a few moments upon another point connected with this\nsubject--that is, the reason why God has established polygamy under\nthe present circumstances among this people. If all the inhabitants of\nthe earth, at the present time, were righteous before God, and both\nmales and females were faithful in keeping His commandments, and the\nnumbers of the sexes of a marriageable age were exactly equal, there\nwould be no necessity for any such institution. Every righteous man\ncould have his wife and there would be no overplus of females. But what\nare the facts in relation to this matter? Since old Pagan Rome and\nGreece--worshippers of idols--passed a law confining a man to one wife,\nthere has been a great surplus of females, who have had no possible\nchance of getting married. You may think this a strange statement, but\nit is a fact that those nations were the founders of what is termed\nmonogamy. All other nations, with few exceptions, had followed the\nscriptural plan of having more wives than one. These nations, however,\nwere very powerful, and when Christianity came to them, especially the\nRoman nation, it had to bow to their mandates and customs, hence the\nChristians gradually adopted the monogamic system. The consequence\nwas that a great many marriageable ladies of those days, and of all\ngenerations from that time to the present have not had the privilege\nof husbands, as the one-wife system has been established by law among\nthe nations descended from the great Roman Empire--namely the nations\nof modern Europe and the American States. This law of monogamy, or\nthe monogamic system, laid the foundation for prostitution and evils\nand diseases of the most revolting nature and character, under which\nmodern Christendom groans, for as God has implanted, for a wise\npurpose, certain feelings in the breasts of females as well as males,\nthe gratification of which is necessary to health and happiness, and\nwhich can only be accomplished legitimately in the married state,\nmyriads of those who have been deprived of the privilege of entering\nthat state, rather than be deprived of the gratification of those\nfeelings altogether, have, in despair, given way to wickedness and\nlicentiousness; hence the whoredoms and prostitution among the nations\nof the earth where the \"Mother of Harlots\" has her seat.\n\nWhen the religious Reformers came out, some two or three centuries ago,\nthey neglected to reform the marriage system--a subject demanding their\nurgent attention. But leaving these Reformers and their doings, let us\ncome down to our own times and see whether, as has been often said by\nmany, the numbers of the sexes are equal; and let us take as a basis\nfor our investigations on this part of our subject, the censuses taken\nby several of the States in the American Union.\n\nMany will tell us that the number of males and the number of females\nborn are just about equal, and because they are so it is not reasonable\nto suppose that God ever intended the nations to practise plurality\nof wives. Let me say a few words on that. Supposing we should admit,\nfor the sake of argument, that the sexes are born in equal numbers,\ndoes that prove that the same equality exists when they come to a\nmarriageable age? By no means. There may be about equal numbers\nborn, but what do the statistics of our country show in regard to\nthe deaths? Do as many females as males die during the first year\nof their existence? If you go to the published statistics you will\nfind, almost without exception, that in every State a greater number\nof males die the first year of their existence than females. The\nsame holds good from one year to five years, from five years to ten,\nfrom ten to fifteen, and from fifteen to twenty. This shows that the\nnumber of females is greatly in excess of the males when they reach\na marriageable age. Let us elucidate still further, in proof of the\nposition here assumed. Let us take, for instance, the census of the\nState of Pennsylvania in the year 1860, and we shall find that there\nwere 17,588 more females than males between the age of twenty and\nthirty years, which may strictly be termed a marriageable age. Says\none, \"Probably the great war made that difference.\" No, this was before\nthe war. Now let us go to the statistics of the State of New York,\nbefore the war, and we find, according to the official tables of the\ncensus taken in 1860, that there were 45,104 more females than males\nin that one State, between the ages of twenty and thirty years--a\nmarriageable age recollect. Now let us go to the State of Massachusetts\nand look at the statistics there. In the year 1865, there were 33,452\nmore females than males between the age of twenty and thirty. We might\ngo on from State to State, and then to the census taken by the United\nStates, and a vast surplus would be shown of females over males of a\nmarriageable age. What is to be done with them? I will tell you what\nPennsylvania, Massachusetts and New York say: they say, virtually, \"We\nwill pass a law so strict, that if these females undertake to marry a\nman who has another wife, both they and the men they marry shall be\nsubject to a term of imprisonment in the penitentiary.\" Indeed! Then\nwhat are you going to do with these hundreds of thousands of females\nof a marriageable age? \"We are going to make them either old maids\nor prostitutes, and we would a little rather have them prostitutes,\nthen we men would have no need to marry.\" This is the conclusion many\nof these marriageable males, between twenty and thirty years of age,\nhave come to. They will not marry because the laws of the land have\na tendency to make prostitutes, and they can purchase all the animal\ngratification they desire without being bound to any woman; hence many\nof them have mistresses, by whom they raise children, and, when they\nget tired of them, turn both mother and children into the street,\nwith nothing to support them, the law allowing them to do so, because\nthe women are not wives. Thus the poor creatures are plunged into\nthe depths of misery, wretchedness, and degradation, because at all\nrisks they have followed the instincts implanted within them by their\nCreator, and not having the opportunity to do so legally have done so\nunlawfully. There are hundreds and thousands of females in this boasted\nland of liberty, through the narrow, contracted, bigoted state laws,\npreventing them from ever getting husbands. That is what the Lord\nis fighting against; we, also, are fighting against it, and for the\nre-establishment of the Bible religion and the Celestial or Patriarchal\norder of marriage.\n\nIt is no matter according to the Constitution whether we believe in the\npatriarchal parts of the Bible, in the Mosiac or in the Christian part;\nwhether we believe in one-half, two-thirds, or in the whole of it; that\nis nobody's business. The Constitution never granted power to Congress\nto prescribe what part of the Bible any people should believe in or\nreject; it never intended any such thing.\n\nMuch more might be said, but the congregation is large, and a speaker,\nof course, will weary. Though my voice is tolerably good, I feel weary\nin making a congregation of from eight to ten thousand people hear\nme, I have tried to do so. May God bless you, and may He pour out His\nSpirit upon the rising generation among us, and upon the missionaries\nwho are about to be sent to the United States, and elsewhere, that\nthe great principles, political, religious and domestic, that God has\nordained and established, may be made known to all people.\n\nIn this land of liberty in religious worship, let us boldly proclaim\nour rights, to believe in and practise any Bible precept, command or\ndoctrine, whether in the Old or New Testament, whether relating to\nceremonies, ordinances, domestic relations, or anything else, not\nincompatible with the rights of others, and the great revelations of\nAlmighty God manifested in ancient and modern times. Amen.\n\n\n\nDISCOURSE\n\nON\n\nCELESTIAL MARRIAGE,\n\nDELIVERED BY\n\nPRESIDENT GEO. A. SMITH,\n\nIN THE\n\nNEW TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY, OCTOBER 8th, 1869.\n\nIt is a difficult undertaking to address this immense audience.\nIf a man commences speaking loud, in a short time his voice gives\nout; whereas, if he commences rather low, he may raise his voice by\ndegrees, and be able to sustain himself in speaking some length of\ntime. But with children crying, a few persons whispering, and some\nshuffling their feet, it is indeed a difficult task to make an audience\nof ten thousand persons hear. I have listened with pleasure to the\ninstructions of our brethren from the commencement of our Conference\nto the present time. I have rejoiced in their testimonies. I have felt\nthat the Elders are improving in wisdom, in knowledge, in power and in\nunderstanding; and I rejoice in the privilege, which we have at the\npresent day, of sending out to our own country, a few hundred of the\nElders who have had experience--who have lived in Israel long enough\nto know, to feel and to realize the importance of the work in which\nthey are engaged--to understand its principles and comprehend the way\nof life. They can bear testimony to a generation that has nearly grown\nfrom childhood since the death of the Prophet Joseph Smith.\n\nThe Lord said in relation to those who have driven the Saints that he\nwould visit \"judgment, wrath and indignation, wailing and anguish,\nand gnashing of teeth upon their heads unto the third and fourth\ngeneration, so long as they repent not and hate me, saith the Lord your\nGod.\"\n\nI am a native of Potsdam, St. Lawrence County, New York--a town\nsomewhat famous for its literary institutions, its learning and the\nreligion and morality of its inhabitants. I left there in my youth,\nwith my father's family, because we had received the Gospel of Jesus\nChrist, as revealed through Joseph Smith; and followed with the Saints\nthrough their drivings and trials unto the present day.\n\nI have never seen the occasion, nor let the opportunity slip, from\nthe time when I first came to a knowledge of the truth of the work\nof the Lord in the last days, that I understood it was in my power\nto do good for the advancement of this work, but what I have used my\nutmost endeavors to accomplish that good. I have never failed to bear a\nfaithful testimony to the work of God, or to carry out, to all intents\nand purposes, the wishes and designs of the Prophet Joseph Smith. I was\nhis kinsman; was familiar with him, though several years his junior;\nknew his views, his sentiments, his ways, his designs, and many of\nthe thoughts of his heart, and I do know that the servants of God,\nthe Twelve Apostles, upon whom He laid the authority to bear off the\nKingdom of God, and fulfill the work which he had commenced, have done\naccording to his designs, in every particular, up to the present time,\nand are continuing to do so. And I know, furthermore, that he rejoiced\nin the fact that the law of redemption and Celestial Marriage was\nrevealed unto the Church in such a manner that it would be out of the\npower of earth and hell to destroy it; and that he rejoiced in the fact\nthat the servants of God were ready prepared, having the keys, to bear\noff the work he had commenced. Previous to my leaving Potsdam, there\nwas but one man that I heard of in that town who did not believe the\nBible. He proclaimed himself an atheist and he drowned himself.\n\nThe Latter-day Saints believe the Bible. An agent of the American Bible\nSociety called on me the other day and wanted to know if we would aid\nthe Society in circulating the Bible in our Territory? I replied yes,\nby all means, for it was the book from which we were enabled to set\nforth our doctrines, and especially the doctrine of plural marriage.\n\nThere is an opinion in the breasts of many persons--who suppose that\nthey believe the Bible--that Christ, when He came, did away with plural\nmarriage, and that He inaugurated what is termed monogamy; and there\nare certain arguments and quotations used to maintain this view of\nthe subject, one of which is found in Paul's first epistle to Timothy\n(iii chap. 2 vs.), where Paul says: \"A Bishop should be blameless, the\nhusband of one wife.\" The friends of monogamy render it in this way: \"A\nBishop should be blameless, the husband of but one wife.\" That would\nimply that any one but a bishop might have more. But they will say,\n\"We mean--a bishop should be blameless, the husband of one wife only.\"\nWell, that would also admit of the construction that other people might\nhave more than one. I understand it to mean that a bishop must be a\nmarried man.\n\nA short time ago, the Minister from the King of Greece to the United\nStates called on President Young. I inquired of him in relation to the\nreligion of his country, and asked him if the clergy were allowed to\nmarry. It is generally understood that the Roman Catholic clergy are\nnot allowed to marry. How is it with the Greek clergy? \"Well,\" said he,\n\"all the clergy marry except the Bishop.\" I replied, \"you render the\nsaying of Paul differently from what we do. We interpret it to mean--\"a\nbishop should be blameless, the husband of one wife at least;\" and \"we\nconstrue it\" said he \"directly the opposite.\"\n\nNow this passage does not prove that a man should have but one wife.\nIt only proves that a bishop should be a married man. The same remark\nis made of deacons, that they also should have wives. Another passage\nis brought up where the Savior speaks of divorce. He tells us that it\nis very wrong to divorce, and that Moses permitted it because of the\nhardness of their (the children of Israel) hearts. A man should leave\nhis father and his mother and cleave unto his wife, and they twain\nshould be one flesh. That is the principal argument raised that a man\nshould have but one wife.\n\nIn the New Testament, in various places, certain eminent men are\nreferred to as patterns of faith, purity, righteousness and piety. For\ninstance, if you read the epistle of Paul to the Hebrews, the 11th\nchap., you find therein selected those persons \"who through faith\nsubdued kingdoms, wrought righteousness, obtained promises, stopped the\nmouths of lions, quenched the violence of fire, escaped the edge of\nthe sword, out of weakness were made strong, waxed valiant in fight,\nturning to flight the armies of the aliens;\" and it is said that by\nfaith Jacob blessed the two sons of Joseph, and that he conferred upon\nthem a blessing to the \"uttermost bounds of the everlasting hills.\"\nWho was Joseph? Why, Joseph was the son of Rachel. And who was Rachel?\nRachel was the second wife of Jacob, a polygamist. Jacob had four\nwives; and after he had taken the second, (Rachel) she, being barren,\ngave a third wife unto her husband that she might bear children unto\nhim for her; and instead of being displeased with her for giving her\nhusband another wife, God heard her prayer, blessed her, worked a\nmiracle in her favor, by opening her womb, and she bear a son, and\ncalled his name Joseph, rejoicing in God, whom she testified would give\nher another son. The question now arises--were not Rachel and Jacob\none flesh? Yes. Leah and Jacob were also one flesh. Jacob is selected\nby the Apostle Paul as a pattern of faith for Christians to follow; he\nblessed his twelve sons, whom he had by four wives. The law of God, as\nit existed in those days, and as laid down in this book, (the Bible)\nmakes children born of adultery or of fornication bastards; and they\nwere prohibited from entering into the congregation of the Lord unto\nthe fourth generation.\n\nNow, instead of God blessing Rachel and Jacob and their offspring,\nas we are told He did, we might have expected something entirely\ndifferent, had it not been that God was pleased with and approbated and\nsustained a plurality of wives.\n\nWhile we are considering this subject, we will enquire, did the Savior\nin any place that we read of, in the course of His mission on the\nearth, denounce a plurality of wives? He lived in a nation of Jews;\nthe law of Moses was in force, plurality of wives was the custom, and\nthousands upon thousands of people, from the highest to the lowest in\nthe land, were polygamists. The Savior denounced adultery; He denounced\nfornication; He denounced lust; also, divorce; but is there a single\nsentence asserting that plurality of wives is wrong? If so, where is\nit? Who can find it? Why did He not say it was wrong? \"Think not,\" said\nHe, \"that I am come to destroy the law or the Prophets. I am not come\nto destroy, but to fulfil. Not one jot or one tittle shall pass from\nthe law and the Prophets, but all shall be fulfilled.\" Of what does the\nSavior speak when He refers to \"the law?\" Why, of the Ten Commandments,\nand other rules of life commanded by God and adopted by the ancients,\nand which Bro. Pratt referred to yesterday, showing you from the\nsacred book that God legislated and made laws for the protection of a\nplurality of wives, (Exod. 21, 10) and that He commanded men to take a\nplurality under some circumstances. Brother Pratt further showed that\nthe Lord made arrangements to protect, to all intents and purposes, the\ninterests of the first wife; and to shield and protect the children\nof a wife from disinheritance who might be unfortunate enough not to\nhave the affections of her husband. (Deut., 21.15.) These things were\nplainly written in the law--that law of which the Savior says \"not\none jot or one tittle shall pass away.\" Continuing our inquiry, we\npass on to the epistles of John the Evangelist, which we find in the\nbook of Revelations, written to the seven churches of Asia. In them we\nfind the Evangelist denounces adultery, fornication, and all manner\nof iniquities and abominations of which these churches were guilty.\nAnything against a plurality of wives? No; not a syllable. Yet those\nchurches were in a country in which plurality was the custom. Hundreds\nof Saints had more wives than one; and if it had been wrong, what would\nhave been the result? Why, John would have denounced the practice, the\nsame as the children of Israel were denounced for marrying heathen\nwives, had it not been that the law of plurality was the commandment of\nGod.\n\nAgain, on this point, we can refer to the Prophets of the Old\nTestament--Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel and others. When God called those\nmen he warned them that if they did not deliver the message to the\npeople which He gave them concerning their sins and iniquities His\nvengeance should rest upon their heads. These are his words to Ezekiel:\n\"Son of man, I have made thee a watchman unto the house of Israel:\ntherefore hear the word at my mouth, and give them warning from me.\nWhen I say unto the wicked, Thou shalt surely die; and thou givest him\nnot warning, nor speakest to warn the wicked from his wicked way, to\nsave his life; the same wicked man shall die in his iniquity; but his\nblood will I require at thine hand. Yet if thou warn the wicked, and he\nturn not from his wickedness, nor from his wicked way, he shall die in\nhis iniquity; but thou hast delivered thy soul.\" (Ezek. iii.17.18.29.)\nHow do we find these Prophets of the Lord fulfilling the commandments\nof the Almighty? We find them pouring out denunciations upon the heads\nof the people--against adultery, fornication and every species of\nwickedness. All this, too, in a country in which, from the King down to\nthe lowest orders of the people, a plurality of wives was practised. Do\nthey say anything against plurality of wives? Not one word. It was only\nin cases where men and women took improper license with each other, in\nviolation of the holy law of marriage, that they were guilty of sin.\n\nIf plurality of wives had been a violation of the seventh commandment\nthose prophets would have denounced it, otherwise their silence on the\nmatter would have been dangerous to themselves, inasmuch as the blood\nof the people would have been required at their hands. The opposers of\nCelestial Marriage sometimes quote a passage in the seventh chapter of\nRomans, second and third verses, to show that a plurality of wives is\nwrong; but when we come to read the passage it shows that a plurality\nof husbands is wrong. You can rend the passage for yourselves. In\nthe forcible parable used by the Savior in relation to the rich man\nand Lazarus, we find recorded that the poor man Lazarus was carried\nto Abraham's bosom--Abraham the father of the faithful. The rich man\ncalls unto Father Abraham to send Lazarus, who is afar off. Who was\nAbraham? He was a man who had a plurality of wives. And yet all good\nChristians, even pious church deacons, expect when they die to go to\nAbraham's bosom. I am sorry to say, however, that thousands of them\nwill be disappointed, from the fact that they cannot and will not go\nwhere any one has a plurality of wives; and I am convinced that Abraham\nwill not turn out his own wives to receive such unbelievers in God's\nlaw. One peculiarity of this parable is the answer of Abraham to the\napplication of the rich man, to send Lazarus to his five brothers \"lest\nthey come into this place of torment,\" which was--\"they have Moses and\nthe prophets, let them hear them; and if they hear not Moses and the\nprophets, neither would they be persuaded though one rose from the\ndead.\" Moses' law provided for a plurality of wives, and the prophets\nobserved that law, and Isaiah predicts its observance even down to the\nlatter-days. Isaiah, in his 4th chap. and 1st and 2nd verses, says\n\"seven women shall take hold of one man, saying, we will eat our own\nbread and wear our own apparel, only let us be called by thy name to\ntake away our reproach. In that day shall the branch of the Lord be\nbeautiful and glorious and the fruit of the earth shall be excellent.\"\n\nA reference to the Scriptures shows that the reproach of woman is to be\nchildless, Gen. c. 30, v. 23; Luke c. 1, v. 25.\n\nWe will now refer to John the Baptist. He came as the forerunner of\nChrist. He was a lineal descendant of the house of Levi. His father\nwas a priest. John the Baptist was a child born by miracle, God\nhaving revealed to his father that Elizabeth, who had been many years\nbarren, should bear a son. John feared not the world, but went forth\npreaching in the wilderness of Judea, declaiming against wickedness and\ncorruption in the boldest terms. He preached against extortion; against\nthe cruelty exercised by the soldiers and tax gatherers. He even was so\nbold as to rebuke the king on his throne, to his face, for adultery.\nDid he say anything against a plurality of wives? No: it cannot be\nfound. Yet thousands were believers in and practised this order of\nmarriage, under the law of Moses that God had revealed.\n\nIn bringing this subject before you, we cannot help saying that God\nknew what was best for His people. Hence He commanded them as He\nwould have them act. The law, regulating marriage previous to Moses,\nrecognized a plurality of wives. Abraham and Jacob and others had\na plurality. These are the men who are referred to in scripture as\npatterns of piety and purity. David had many wives. The scripture says\nthat David did that which was right in the eyes of the Lord and turned\nnot aside from anything that He commanded him all the days of his life,\nsave in the matter of Uriah the Hittite, 1 Kings, 15 chap. 5 vs. \"I\nhave found David the son of Jesse, a man after mine own heart which\nshall fulfill all my will. Of this man's seed hath God, according to\nHis promise, raised unto Israel a Savior, Jesus.\" Acts 13 chap., 22\nand 23 vs. Did David sin in taking so many wives? No. In what, then,\ndid his sin consist? It was because he took the wife of Uriah, the\nHittite--that is, violated the law of God in taking her. The Lord had\ngiven him the wives of Saul and would have given him many more; but\nhe had no right to take one who belonged to another. When he did so\nthe curse of adultery fell upon his head, and his wives were taken\nfrom him and given to another. We will now inquire in relation to the\nSavior himself. From whom did he descend? From the house of David, a\npolygamist; and if you will trace the names of the familles through\nwhich He descended you will find that numbers of them had a plurality\nof wives. How appropriate it would have been for Jesus, descending as\nhe did from a race of polygamists, to denounce this institution of\nplural marriage and show its sinfulness, had it been a sin! Can we\nsuppose, for one moment, if Patriarchal Marriage were wrong, that He\nwould, under the circumstances have been silent concerning it or failed\nto denounce it in the most positive manner? Then if plural marriage be\nadultery and the offspring spurious, Christ Jesus is not the Christ;\nand we must look for another.\n\nAll good Christians are flattering themselves with the hope that they\nwill finally enter the gates of the New Jerusalem. I presume this is\nthe hope of all denominations--Catholics, Protestants, Greeks, and all\nwho believe the Bible. Suppose they go there, what will they find?\nThey will find at the twelve gates twelve angels, and \"names written\nthereon, which are the names of the twelve tribes of the children\nof Israel.\" The names of the twelve sons of Jacob, the polygamist.\nCan a monogamist enter there? \"And the walls of the city had twelve\nfoundations, and in them the names of the twelve apostles of the lamb;\"\nand at the gates the names of the twelve tribes of Israel--from the\ntwelve sons of the four wives of Jacob. Those who denounce Patriarchal\nMarriage will have to stay without and never walk the golden streets.\nAnd any man or woman that lifts his or her voice to proclaim against a\nplurality of wives under the Government of God, will have to seek an\ninheritance outside of that city. For \"there shall in no wise enter\ninto it, anything that defileth, neither whatsoever worketh abomination\nor maketh a lie, for without are sorcerers, whoremongers, and whosoever\nloveth and maketh a lie.\" Is not the man that denounces Celestial\nMarriage a liar? Does he not work abomination? \"I, Jesus, have sent\nmine Angel to testify unto you these things in the churches. I am\nthe root and offspring of [the polygamist] David, the bright and the\nmorning star.\"\n\nMay God enable us to keep His law, for \"blessed are they that do His\ncommandments, that they may have right to the tree of life and may\nenter in through the gate into the city.\" Amen.\n\n\n\nDISCOURSE\n\nON\n\nCELESTIAL MARRIAGE,\n\nDELIVERED BY\n\nELDER GEORGE Q. CANNON,\n\nIN THE\n\nNEW TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY, OCTOBER 9th, 1869.\n\nI will repeat a few verses in the tenth chapter of Mark, commencing at\nthe twenty-eighth verse:\n\n Then Peter began to say unto him, Lo, we have left all, and have\n followed thee.\n\n And Jesus answered and said, verily I say unto you, There is no man\n that hath left house, or brethren, or sisters, or father, or mother,\n or wife, or children, or lands, for my sake, and the gospel's,\n\n But he shall receive an hundred-fold now in this time, houses, and\n brethren, and sisters, and mothers, and children, and lands, with\n persecutions; and in the world to come eternal life.\n\nIn rising to address you this morning, my brethren and sisters, I rely\nupon your faith and prayers and the blessing of God. We have heard,\nduring Conference, a great many precious instructions, and in none\nhave I been more interested than in those which have been given to\nthe Saints concerning that much mooted doctrine called Patriarchal or\nCelestial Marriage. I am interested in this doctrine, because I see\nsalvation, temporal and spiritual, embodied therein. I know, pretty\nwell, what the popular feelings concerning this doctrine are; I am\nfamiliar with the opinions of the world, having traveled and mingled\nwith the people sufficiently to be conversant with their ideas in\nrelation to this subject. I am also familiar with the feelings of the\nLatter-day Saints upon this point. I know the sacrifice of feeling\nwhich it has caused for them to adopt this principle in their faith and\nlives. It has required the revelation of God, our Heavenly Father, to\nenable His people to receive this principle and carry it out. I wish,\nhere, to make one remark in connection with this subject--that while\nthere is abundant proof to be found in the scriptures and elsewhere\nin support of this doctrine, still it is not because it was practised\nfour thousand years ago by the servants and people of God, or because\nit has been practised by any people or nation in any period of the\nworld's history, that the Latter-day Saints have adopted it and made\nit part of their practice, but it is because God, our Heavenly Father,\nhas revealed it unto us. If there were no record of its practice to\nbe found, and if the Bible, Book of Mormon and Book of Doctrine and\nCovenants were totally silent in respect to this doctrine, it would\nnevertheless be binding upon us as a people, God himself having given\na revelation for us to practise it at the present time. This should be\nunderstood by us as a people. It is gratifying to know, however, that\nwe are not the first of God's people unto whom this principle has been\nrevealed; it is gratifying to know that we are only following in the\nfootsteps of those who have preceded us in the work of God, and that\nwe, to-day, are only carrying out the principle which God's people\nobserved, in obedience to revelation received from Him, thousands of\nyears ago. It is gratifying to know that we are suffering persecution,\nthat we are threatened with lines and imprisonment for the practice\nof precisely the same principle which Abraham, the \"friend of God,\"\npractised in his life and taught to his children after him.\n\nThe discourses of Brother Orson Pratt and of President George A. Smith\nhave left but very little to be said in relation to the scriptural\narguments in favor of this doctrine. I know that the general opinion\namong men is that the Old Testament, to some extent, sustains it; but\nthat the New Testament--Jesus and the Apostles, were silent concerning\nit. It was clearly proved in our hearing yesterday, and the afternoon\nof the day previous, that the New Testament, though not so explicit\nin reference to the doctrine, is still decidedly in favor of it and\nsustains it. Jesus very plainly told the Jews, when boasting of being\nthe seed of Abraham, that if they were, they would do the works of\nAbraham. He and the Apostles, in various places, clearly set forth that\nAbraham was the great exemplar of faith for them to follow, and that\nthey must follow him if they ever expected to participate in the glory\nand exaltation enjoyed by Abraham and his faithful seed. Throughout the\nNew Testament Abraham is held up to the converts to the doctrines which\nJesus taught, as an example worthy of imitation, and in no place is\nthere a word of condemnation uttered concerning him. The Apostle Paul,\nin speaking of him says:\n\n\"Know ye, therefore, that they which are of the faith, the same are the\nchildren of Abraham. * * * * So then they which be of the faith are\nblessed with faithful Abraham.\"\n\nHe also says that the Gentiles, through adoption, became Abraham's\nseed; that the blessing of Abraham, says he, might come upon the\nGentiles through Jesus Christ, shewing plainly that Jesus and all the\nApostles who alluded to the subject, held the deeds of Abraham to be,\nin every respect, worthy of imitation.\n\nWho was this Abraham? I have heard the saying frequently advanced, that\nin early life, being an idolater, it was an idolatrous, heathenish\nprinciple which he adopted in taking to himself a second wife while\nSarah still lived. Those who make this assertion in reference to the\ngreat patriarch, seem to be ignorant of the fact that he was well\nadvanced in life and had served God faithfully many years, prior to\nmaking any addition to his family. He did not have a plurality of wives\nuntil years after the Lord had revealed Himself to him, commanding him\nto leave Ur, of the Chaldees, and go forth to a land which He would\ngive to him and his posterity for an everlasting possession. He went\nforth and lived in that land many long years before the promise of God\nwas fulfilled unto him--namely, that in his seed should all the nations\nof the earth be blessed; and Abraham was still without any heir, except\nEliezer, of Damascus, the steward of his house. At length, after living\nthus for ten years, God commanded him to take to himself another wife,\nwho was given to him by his wife Sarah. When the offspring of this\nmarriage was born, Abraham was eighty-six years old.\n\nWe read of no word of condemnation from the Lord for this\nact--something which we might naturally expect if, as this unbelieving\nand licentious generation affirm, the act of taking more wives than one\nbe such a vile crime, and so abominable in the sight of God; for if it\nbe evil in the sight of the Lord to-day it was then, for the scriptures\ninform us that He changes not, He is the same yesterday, today and\nforever, and is without variableness or the shadow of turning. But\ninstead of condemnation, God revealed himself continually to his friend\nAbraham, teaching His will unto him, revealing all things concerning\nthe future which it was necessary for him to understand, and promising\nhim that, though he had been blessed with a son, Ishmael, yet in\nIsaac, a child of promise, not yet born, should his seed be called.\nAbraham was to have yet another son. Sarah, in her old age, because\nof her faithfulness, because of her willingness to comply with the\nrequirements and revelations of God, was to have a son given unto her.\nSuch an event was so unheard of among women at her time of life that,\nthough the Lord promised it, she could not help laughing at the idea.\nBut God fulfilled His promise, and in due time Isaac was born, and was\ngreatly blessed of the Lord.\n\nDetermined to try His faithful servant Abraham to the uttermost, the\nLord, some years after the birth of this son, in whom He had promised\nthat Abraham's seed should be called, required him to offer up this boy\nas a burnt offering to Him; and Abraham, nothing doubting, but full of\nfaith and integrity, and of devotion to his God, proved himself worthy\nof the honored title that had been conferred upon him, namely, \"the\nFriend of God,\" by taking his son Isaac, in whom most of his hopes for\nthe future centred, up the mountain, and there, having built the altar,\nhe bound the victim and, with knife uplifted, was about to strike the\nfatal blow, when the angel of the Lord cried out of heaven, commanding\nhim not to slay his son. The Lord was satisfied, having tried him to\nthe uttermost, and found him willing even to shed the blood of his well\nbeloved son.\n\nThe Lord was so pleased with the faithfulness of Abraham, that He gave\nunto him the greatest promise He could give to any human being on the\nface of the earth. What do you think was the nature of that promise?\nDid He promise to Abraham a crown of eternal glory? Did He promise to\nhim that he should be in the presence of the Lamb, that he should tune\nhis harp, and sing praises to God and the Lamb, throughout the endless\nages of eternity? Let me quote it to you, and it would be well if all\nthe inhabitants of the earth would reflect upon it. Said the Lord:\n\n\"In blessing I will bless thee, and in multiplying I will multiply thy\nseed as the stars of heaven, and as the sand which is upon the sea\nshore: and thy seed shall possess the gate of his enemies.\"\n\nThis was the promise which God gave to Abraham, in that hour of\nhis triumph, in that hour when there was joy in heaven over the\nfaithfulness of one of God's noblest and most devoted sons. Think of\nthe greatness of this blessing! Can you count the stars of heaven, or\neven the grains of a handful of sand? No, it is beyond the power of\nearth's most gifted sons to do either, and yet God promised to Abraham\nthat his seed should be as innumerable as the stars of heaven or as the\nsand on the sea-shore.\n\nHow similar was this promise of God to Abraham to that made by Jesus as\na reward for faithfulness to those who followed Him! Said Jesus, \"He\nthat forsakes brothers or sisters, houses or lands, father or mother,\nwives or children, shall receive a hundred fold in this life with\npersecution, and eternal life in the world to come.\" A very similar\nblessing to that which God, long before, had made to Abraham, and\ncouched in very similar terms.\n\nIt is pertinent for us to enquire, on the present occasion, how the\npromises made by Jesus and His Father, in ages of the world separated\nby a long interval the one from the other, could be realized under the\nsystem which prevails throughout Christendom at the present day? In the\nmonogamic system, under which the possession of more than one living\nwife is regarded as such a crime, and as being so fearfully immoral,\nhow could the promise of the Savior to his faithful followers, that\nthey should have a hundredfold of wives and children, in this present\nlife, ever be realized? There is a way which God has provided in a\nrevelation given to this Church, in which He says:\n\n\"Strait is the gate, and narrow the way that leadeth unto the\nexaltation and continuation of the lives, and few there be that find\nit, because ye receive me not in this world, neither do ye know me.\"\n\nGod revealed that strait and narrow way to Abraham, and taught him\nhow he could enter therein. He taught him the principle of plurality\nof wives; Abraham practised it and bequeathed it to his children as\na principle which they were to practise. Under such a system it was\na comparatively easy matter for men to have a hundred fold of wives,\nchildren, fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters and everything else in\nproportion; and in no other way could the promises of Jesus be realized\nby His followers, than in the way God has provided, and which He has\nrevealed to His Church and people in these latter-days.\n\nI have felt led to dwell on these few passages from the sayings of\nJesus, to show you that there is abundance of scriptural proofs in\nfavor of this principle and the position this Church has assumed, in\naddition to those previously referred to.\n\nIt is a blessed thing to know that, in this as in every other doctrine\nand principle taught by us as a Church, we are sustained by the\nrevelations God gave to His people anciently. One of the strongest\nsupports the Elders of this Church have had in their labors among the\nnations was the knowledge that the Bible and New Testament sustained\nevery principle they advanced to the people. When they preached faith,\nrepentance, baptism for the remission of sins, the laying on of hands\nfor the reception of the Holy Ghost, the gathering of the people from\nthe nations, the re-building of Jerusalem, the second coming of Christ,\nand every other principle ever touched upon by them, it was gratifying\nto know that they were sustained by the scriptures, and that they could\nturn to chapter and verse among the sayings of Jesus and His Apostles,\nor among those of the ancient prophets, in confirmation of every\ndoctrine they ever attempted to bring to the attention of those to whom\nthey ministered. There is nothing with which the Latter-day Saints can,\nwith more confidence, refer to the scriptures for confirmation and\nsupport, than the doctrine of plural marriage, which, at the present\ntime, among one of the most wicked, adulterous and corrupt generations\nthe world has ever seen, is so much hated, and for which mankind\ngenerally, are so anxious to cast out and persecute the Latter-day\nSaints.\n\nIf we look abroad and peruse the records of everyday life throughout\nthe whole of Christendom, we find that crimes of every hue, and of\nthe most appalling and revolting character are constantly committed,\nexciting neither surprise nor comment. Murder, robbery, adultery,\nseduction and every species of villany known in the voluminous\ncatalogue of crime, in modern times, are regarded as mere matters of\nordinary occurrence, and yet there is a hue and cry raised, almost\nas wide as Christendom, for the persecution, by fine, imprisonment,\nproscription, outlawry or extermination, of the people of Utah because,\nknowing that God, the Eternal Father, has spoken in these days and\nrevealed his mind and will to them, they dare to carry out His\nbehests. For years they have meekly submitted to this persecution and\ncontumely, but they appeal now, as ever, to all rational, reflecting\nmen, and invite comparison between the state of society here and in\nany portion of this or any other country, knowing that the verdict\nwill be unanimous and overwhelming in their favor. In every civilized\ncountry on the face of the earth the seducer plies his arts to envelop\nhis victim within his meshes, in order to accomplish her ruin most\ncompletely; and it is well known that men holding positions of trust\nand responsibility, looked upon as honorable and highly respectable\nmembers of society, violate their marriage vows by carrying on their\nsecret amours and supporting mistresses; yet against the people of\nUtah, where such things are totally unknown, there is an eternal and\nrabid outcry because they practise the heaven-revealed system of a\nplurality of wives. It is a most astonishing thing, and no greater\nevidence could be given that Satan reigns in the hearts of the children\nof men, and that he is determined, if possible, to destroy the work of\nGod from the face of the earth.\n\nThe Bible, the only work accepted by the nations of Christendom, as a\ndivine revelation, sustains this doctrine, from beginning to end. The\nonly revelation on record that can be quoted against it came through\nthe Prophet Joseph Smith, and is contained in the Book of Mormon; and\nstrange to say, here in Salt Lake City, a day or or two since, one of\nthe leading men of the nation, in his eager desire and determination to\ncast discredit on this doctrine, unable to do so by reference to the\nBible, which he no doubt, in common with all Christians, acknowledges\nas divine, was compelled to have recourse to the Book of Mormon, a work\nwhich on any other point, he would most unquestionably have scouted\nand ridiculed, as an emanation from the brain of an impostor. What\nconsistency! A strange revolution this, that men should have recourse\nto our own works, whose authenticity they most emphatically deny, to\nprove us in the wrong. Yet this attempt, whenever made, cannot be\nsustained, for Brother Pratt clearly showed to you, in his remarks the\nother day, that instead of the Book of Mormon being opposed to this\nprinciple, it contains an express provision for the revelation of the\nprinciple to us as a people at some future time--namely that when the\nLord should desire to raise up unto Himself a righteous seed, He would\ncommand His people to that effect. Plainly setting forth that a time\nwould come when He would command His people to do so.\n\nIt is necessary that this principle should be practised under the\nauspices and control of the priesthood. God has placed that priesthood\nin the Church to govern and control all the affairs thereof, and this\nis a principle which, if not practised in the greatest holiness and\npurity, might lead men into great sin, therefore the priesthood is\nthe more necessary to guide and control men in the practice of this\nprinciple. There might be circumstances and situations in which it\nwould not be wisdom in the mind of God for his people to practise\nthis principle, but so long as a people are guided by the priesthood\nand revelations of God there is no danger of evil arising therefrom.\nIf we, as a people, had attempted to practise this principle without\nrevelation, it is likely that we should have been led into grievous\nsins and the condemnation of God would have rested upon us; but the\nChurch waited until the proper time came, and then the people practised\nit according to the mind and will of God, making a sacrifice of their\nown feelings in so doing. But the history of the world goes to prove\nthat the practice of this principle even by nations ignorant of the\ngospel has resulted in greater good to them than the practice of\nmonogamy or the one-wife system in the so-called Christian nations.\nTo-day, Christendom holds itself and its institutions aloft as a\npattern for all men to follow. If you travel throughout the United\nStates and through the nations of Europe in which Christianity\nprevails, and talk with the people about their institutions, they\nwill boast of them as being the most permanent, indestructible and\nprogressive of any institutions existing upon the earth; yet it is a\nfact well known to historians, that the Christian nations of Europe are\nthe youngest nations on the globe. Where are the nations which have\nexisted from time immemorial? They are not to be found in Christian\nmonogamic Europe, but in Asia, among the polygamic races--China,\nJapan, Hindostan and the various races of that vast continent. Those\nnations, from the most remote times, practised plural marriage handed\ndown to them by their forefathers. Although they are looked upon by\nthe nations of Europe as semi-civilized, you will not find among them,\nwoman prostituted, debased and degraded as she is through Christendom.\nShe may be treated coldly, and degraded, but among them, except where\nthe Christian element to a large extent prevails, she is not debased\nand polluted as she is among the so-called Christian nations. It is a\nfact worthy of note that the shortest lived nations of which we have\nrecord have been monogamic. Rome, with her arts, sciences, and war-like\ninstincts, was once the mistress of the world; but her glory faded. She\nwas a monogamic nation, and the numerous evils attending that system\nearly laid the foundation for that ruin which eventually overtook\nher. The strongest sayings of Jesus, recorded in the New Testament,\nwere levelled against the dreadful corruptions practised in Rome and\nwherever the Romans held sway. The leaven of their institutions had\nworked its way into the Jewish nation, Jewry or Palestine being then a\nRoman province, and governed by Roman officers, who brought with them\ntheir wicked institutions, and Jesus denounced the practices which\nprevailed there.\n\nA few years before the birth of the Savior, Julius Caesar was First\nConsul at Rome; he aimed at and obtained imperial power. He had four\nwives during his life and committed numerous adulteries. His first\nwife he married early; but, becoming ambitious, the alliance did not\nsuit him, and, as the Roman law did not permit him to retain her\nand to marry another, he put her away. He then married the daughter\nof a consul, thinking to advance his interests thereby. She died,\nand a third was married. The third was divorced, and he married a\nfourth, with whom he was living at the time he was murdered. His\ngrand-nephew, the Emperor Augustus Caesar, reigned at the time of the\nbirth of Christ. He is alluded to in history as one of the greatest of\nthe Caesars; he also had four wives. He divorced one after another,\nexcept the last, who out-lived him. These men were not singular in\nthis practice; it was common in Rome; the Romans did not believe\nin plurality of wives, but in divorcing them; in taking wives for\nconvenience and putting them away when they got tired of them. In our\ncountry divorces are increasing, yet Roman-like, men expect purity\nand chastity from their wives they do not practise themselves. You\nrecollect, doubtless, the famous answer of Caesar when his wife was\naccused of an intrigue with an infamous man. Some one asked Caesar why\nhe had put away his wife. Said he, \"The wife of Caesar must not only\nbe incorrupt but unsuspected.\" He could not bear to have the virtue of\nhis wife even suspected, yet his own life was infamous in the extreme.\nHe was a seducer, adulterer and is reported to have practised even a\nworse crime, yet he expected his wife to possess a virtue which, in his\nhighest and holiest moments, was utterly beyond his conception in his\nown life.\n\nThis leaven was spreading itself over every country where the Roman\nEmpire had jurisdiction. It had reached Palestine in the days of the\nSavior, hence by understanding the practices prevalent in those times\namongst that people, you will be better able to appreciate the strong\nlanguage used by Jesus against putting away, or divorcing wives. Rome\ncontinued to practise corruption until she fell beneath the weight\nof it, and was overwhelmed, not by another monogamic race, but by\nthe vigorous polygamic hordes from the north, who swept away Roman\nimperialism, establishing in the place thereof institutions of their\nown. But they speedily fell into the same habit of having one wife and\nmultitudes of courtesans, and soon, like Rome, fell beneath their own\ncorruptions.\n\nWhen courtesans were taught every accomplishment and honored with the\nsociety of the leading men of the nation, and wives were deprived of\nthese privileges, is it any wonder that Rome should fall? or that the\nmore pure, or barbarous nations, as they were called, overwhelmed and\ndestroyed her?\n\nI have had it quoted to me many times that no great nations ever\npractised plural marriage. They who make such an assertion are utterly\nignorant of history. What nations have left the deepest impress on the\nhistory of our race? Those which have practised plurality of marriage.\nThey have prevented the dreadful crime of prostitution by allowing men\nto have more wives than one. I know we are dazzled by the glory of\nChristendom; we are dazzled with the glory of our own age. Like every\ngeneration that has preceded it, the present generation thinks it is\nthe wisest and best, and nearer to God than any which has preceded it.\nThis is natural; it is a weakness of human nature. This is the case\nwith nations as well as generations. China, to-day, calls all western\nnations \"outside barbarians.\" Japan, Hindostan and all other polygamic\nnations do the same, and in very many respects they have as much right\nto say that of monogamic nations, as the latter have to say it of them.\n\nI heard a traveller remark a few days ago, while in conversation with\nhim, \"I have travelled through Asia Minor and Turkey, and I have\nblushed many times when contrasting the practices and institutions of\nthose people with those of my own country,\" the United States. He is a\ngentleman with whom I had a discussion some years ago on the principle\nof plural marriage. He has traveled a good deal since then, and he\nremarked to me: \"Travel enlarges a man's head and his heart. I have\nlearned a great many things since we had a discussion together, and\nI have modified my views and opinions very materially with regard to\nthe excellence of the institutions, habits and morals which prevail in\nChristendom.\" This gentleman told me that among those nations, which\nwe call semi-civilized, there are no drinking saloons, no brothels,\nnor drunkenness, and an entire absence of many other evils which exist\nin our own nation. I think this testimony, coming from a man who,\npreviously, had such strong prejudices, was very valuable. He is not\nthe only one who has borne this testimony, but all reliable travelers,\nwho have lived in Oriental nations, vouch for the absence of those\nmonstrous evils which flourish in and fatten and fester upon the vitals\nof all civilized or Christian nations.\n\nIn speaking of Utah and this peculiar practice amongst its people it\nis frequently said, \"Look at the Turks and other Oriental nations and\nsee how women are degraded and debased among them, and deprived of many\nprivileges which they enjoy among us!\" But if it be true that woman\ndoes not occupy her true position among those nations, is this not more\nattributable to their rejection of the gospel than to their practice\nof having a plurality of wives? Whatever her condition may be there,\nhowever, I do not therefore accept, as a necessary conclusion, that\nshe must be degraded among us. We have received the gospel of the Lord\nJesus, the principles of which elevate all who honor them, and will\nimpart to our sisters every blessing necessary to make them noble and\ngood in the presence of God and man.\n\nLook at the efforts which are being made to elevate the sex among the\nLatter-day Saints! See the privileges that are given them, and listen\nto the teachings imparted to them day by day, week by week, and year by\nyear, to encourage them to press forward in the march of improvement!\nThe elevation of the sex must follow as a result of these instructions.\nThe practice in the world is to select a few of the sex and to elevate\nthem. There is no country in the world, probably, where women are\nidolized to the extent they are in the United States. But is the entire\nsex in the United States thus honored and respected? No; it is not.\nAny person who will travel, and observe while he is travelling, will\nfind that thousands of women are degraded and treated as something very\nvile, and are terribly debased in consequence of the practices of men\ntowards them. But the gospel of Jesus, and the revelations which God\nhas given unto us concerning Patriarchal Marriage have a tendency to\nelevate the entire sex, and give all the privilege of being honored\nmatrons and respected wives. There are no refuse among us--no class to\nbe cast out, scorned and condemned; but every woman who chooses, can\nbe an honored wife and move in society in the enjoyment of every right\nwhich woman should enjoy to make her the equal of man as far as she can\nbe his equal.\n\nThis is the result of the revelations of the gospel unto us, and the\neffect of the preaching and practice of this principle in our midst.\nI know, however, that there are those who shrink from this, who feel\ntheir hearts rebel against the principle, because of the equality which\nit bestows on the sex. They would like to be the honored few--the\naristocrats of society as it were, while their sisters might perish on\nevery hand around them. They would not, if they could, extend their\nhands to save their sisters from a life of degradation. This is wrong\nand a thing which God is displeased at. He has revealed this principle\nand commanded His servants to take wives. What for? That they may\nobey his great command--a command by which Eternity is peopled, a\ncommand by which Abraham's seed shall become as the stars of heaven for\nmultitude, and as the sand on the sea shore that cannot be counted. He\nhas given to us this command, and shall we, the sterner sex, submit to\nall the difficulties and trials entailed in carrying it out? Shall we\nsubmit to all the afflictions and labor incident to this life to save\nour sisters, while many of you who are of the same sex, whose hearts\nought to beat for their salvation as strongly as ours do, will not\nhelp us? I leave you all to answer. There is a day of reckoning coming\nwhen you will be held accountable as well as we. Every woman in this\nChurch should join heart and hand in this great work, which has for its\nresult, the redemption of the sexes, both male and female. No woman\nshould slacken her hand or withhold her influence, but every one should\nseek by prayer and faith unto God for the strength and grace necessary\nto enable her to do so. \"But,\" says one, \"is not this a trial, and does\nit not inflict upon us unnecessary trials?\" There are afflictions and\ntrials connected with this principle. It is necessary there should be.\nIs there any law that God reveals unattended with a trial of some kind?\nThink of the time, you who are adults, and were born in the nations,\nwhen you joined the Church! Think of the trials connected with your\nespousal of the gospel. Did it not try you to go forth and be baptized?\nDid it not try you, when called upon to gather, to leave your homes\nand nearest and dearest friend, as many of you have done? Did it not\ntry you to do a great many things you have been required to do in the\ngospel? Every law of the gospel has a trial connected with it, and\nthe higher the law the greater the trial; and as we ascend nearer and\nnearer to the Lord our God we shall have greater trials to contend\nwith in purifying ourselves before Him. He has helped us this far. He\nhas helped us to conquer our selfish feelings, and when our sisters\nseek unto Him He helps them to overcome their feelings; He gives them\nstrength to overcome their selfishness and jealousy. There is not a\nwoman under the sound of my voice to-day, but can bear witness of this\nif she has tried it. You, sisters, whose husbands have taken other\nwives, can you not bear testimony that the principle has purified your\nhearts, made you less selfish, brought you nearer to God and given you\npower you never had before? There are hundreds within the sound of my\nvoice to day, both men and women, who can testify that this has been\nthe effect that the practice of this principle has had upon them.\n\nI am speaking now of what are called the spiritual benefits arising\nfrom the righteous practice of this principle. I am sure that through\nthe practice of this principle, we shall have a purer community, a\ncommunity more experienced, less selfish and with a higher knowledge of\nhuman nature than any other on the face of the earth. It has already\nhad this effect to a great extent, and its effects in these directions\nwill increase as the practice of the principle becomes more general.\n\nA lady visitor remarked to me not long ago, in speaking upon this\nsubject: \"Were I a man, I should feel differently probably to what\nI do; to your sex the institution cannot be so objectionable.\" This\nmay be the case to some extent, but the practice of this principle is\nby no means without its trials for the males. The difficulties and\nperplexities connected with the care of a numerous family, to a man who\nhas any ambition, are so great that nothing short of the revelations\nof God or the command of Jesus Christ, would tempt men to enter this\norder; the mere increase of facilities to gratify the lower passions\nof our natures would be no inducement to assume such an increase of\ngrave responsibilities. These desires have been implanted in both\nmale and female for a wise purpose, but their immoderate and illegal\ngratification is a source of evil equal to that system of repression\nprevalent in the world, to which thousands must submit or criminate\nthemselves.\n\nJust think, in the single State of Massachusetts, at the last census,\nthere were 63,011 females more than males. Brother Pratt, in his\nremarks on this subject, truly remarked that the law of Massachusetts\nmakes these 63,011 females either old maids or prostitutes, for that\nlaw says they shall not marry a man who has a wife. Think of this! And\nthe same is true to a greater or less degree throughout all the older\nStates, for the females preponderate in every one.\n\nThus far I have referred only to the necessity and benefit of this\nprinciple being practised in a moral point of view. I have said\nnothing about the physiological side of the question. This is one of\nif not the strongest sources of argument in its favor; but I do not\npropose to enter into that branch of the subject to any great extent\non the present occasion. We are all, both men and women, physiologists\nenough to know that the procreative powers of man endure much longer\nthan those of woman. Granting, as some assert, that an equal number\nof the sexes exist, what would this lead to? Man must practise that\nwhich is vile and low or submit to a system of repression; because if\nhe be married to a woman who is physically incapable, he must either\ndo himself violence or what is far worse, he must have recourse to\nthe dreadful and damning practice of having illegal connection with\nwomen, or become altogether like the beasts. Do you not see that if\nthese things were introduced among our society they would be pregnant\nwith the worst results? The greatest conceivable evils would result\ntherefrom! How dreadful are the consequences of this system of which I\nam now speaking, as witnessed at the present time throughout all the\nnations of Christendom! You may see them on every hand. Yet the attempt\nis being continually made to bring us to the same standard, and to\ncompel us to share the same evils.\n\nWhen the principle of plurality of wives was revealed I was but a\nboy. When reflecting on the subject of the sealing power which was\nthen being taught, the case of Jacob, who had four wives, occurred to\nme, and I immediately concluded that the time would come when light\nconnected with this practice would be revealed to us as a people. I\nwas therefore prepared for the principle when it was revealed, and I\nknow it is true on the principle that I know that baptism, the laying\non of hands, the gathering, and everything connected with the gospel\nis true. If there were no books in existence, if the revelation itself\nwere blotted out, and there was nothing written in its favor, extant\namong men, still I could bear testimony for myself that I know this\nis a principle which, if practised in purity and virtue, as it should\nbe, will result in the exaltation and benefit of the human family; and\nthat it will exalt woman until she is redeemed from the effects of\nthe Fall, and from that curse pronounced upon her in the beginning. I\nbelieve the correct practice of this principle will redeem woman from\nthe effects of that curse--namely, \"Thy desire shall be to thy husband,\nand he shall rule over thee.\" All the evils connected with jealousy\nhave their origin in this. It is natural for woman to cleave to man; it\nwas pronounced upon her in the beginning, seemingly as a punishment.\nI believe the time will come when, by the practise of the virtuous\nprinciples which God has revealed, woman will be emancipated from that\npunishment and that feeling. Will she cease to love man? No, it is not\nnecessary for her to cease to love.\n\nHow is it among the nations of the earth? Why, women, in their yearning\nafter the other sex and in their desire for maternity, will do anything\nto gratify that instinct of their nature, and yield to anything and be\ndishonored even rather than not gratify it; and in consequence of that\nwhich has been pronounced upon them, they are not held accountable to\nthe same extent that men are. Man is strong, he is the head of woman,\nand God will hold him responsible for the use of the influence he\nexercises over the opposite sex. Hence we were told by Brother Pratt\nthat there are degrees of glory, and that the faithful man may receive\nthe power of God--the greatest He has ever bestowed upon man--namely,\nthe power of procreation. It is a god-like power, but how it is\nabused! How men debase themselves and the other sex by its unlawful\nand improper exercise! We were told there is a glory to which alone\nthat power will be accorded in the life to come. Still there will be\nmillions of women saved in the kingdom of God, while men, through\nthe abuse of this precious gift, will not be counted worthy of such\na privilege. And this very punishment will, in the end, be woman's\nsalvation, because she is not held accountable to the same degree that\nmen are.\n\nThis is a subject that we should all do well to reflect upon. There are\nmany points connected with the question physiologically, that might\nbe dwelt upon with great advantage. I have heard it said, and seen\nit printed, that the children born here under this system are not so\nsmart as others; that their eyes lack lustre and that they are dull\nin intellect; and many strangers, especially ladies, when arriving\nhere, are anxious to see the children, having read accounts which have\nled them to expect that most of the children born here are deficient.\nBut the testimony of Professor Park, the principal of the University\nof Deseret, and of other leading teachers of the young here, is that\nthey never saw children with a greater aptitude for the acquisition\nof knowledge than the children raised in this Territory. There are no\nbrighter children to be found in the world than those born in this\nTerritory. Under the system of Patriarchal Marriage, the offspring,\nbesides being equally as bright and brighter intellectually, are much\nmore healthy and strong. Need I go into particulars to prove this? To\nyou who are married there is no necessity of doing so; you know what I\nmean. You all know that many women are sent to the grave prematurely\nthrough the evil they have to endure from their husbands during\npregnancy and lactation, and their children often sustain irremediable\ninjury.\n\nAnother good effect of the institution here is that you may travel\nthroughout our entire Territory, and virtue prevails. Our young live\nvirtuously until they marry. But how is it under the monogamic system?\nTemptations are numerous on every hand and young men fall a prey to\nvice. An eminent medical professor in New York recently declared, while\ndelivering a lecture to his class in one of the colleges there, that if\nhe wanted a man twenty-five years of age, free from a certain disease,\nhe would not know where to find him. What a terrible statement to make!\nIn this community no such thing exists. Our boys grow up in purity,\nhonoring and respecting virtue; our girls do the same, and the great\nmass of them are pure. There may be impurities. We are human, and it\nwould not be consistent with our knowledge of human nature to say that\nwe are entirely pure, but we are the most pure of any people within the\nconfines of the Republic. We have fewer unvirtuous boys and girls in\nour midst than any other community within the range of my knowledge.\nBoth sexes grow up in vigor, health and purity.\n\nThese, my brethren and sisters, are some of the results which I wanted\nto allude to in connection with this subject. Much more might be said.\nThere is not a man or woman who has listened to me to-day, but he and\nshe have thoughts, reasons and arguments to sustain this principle\npassing through their minds which I have not touched upon, or, if\ntouched upon at all, in a very hasty manner.\n\nThe question arises, What is going to be done with this institution?\nWill it be overcome? The conclusion arrived at long ago is that it is\nGod and the people for it. God has revealed it, He must sustain it,\nwe can not; we cannot bear it off, He must. I know that Napoleon said\nProvidence was on the side of the heaviest artillery, and many men\nthink that God is on the side of the strongest party. The Midianites\nprobably thought so when Gideon fell upon them with three hundred men.\nSennacherib and the Assyrians thought so when they came down in their\nmight to blot out Israel. But God is mighty; God will prevail; God will\nsustain that which he has revealed, and He will uphold and strengthen\nHis servants and bear off His people. We need not be afflicted by a\ndoubt; a shadow of doubt need not cross our minds as to the result. We\nknow that God can sustain us: He has borne off His people in triumph\nthus far and will continue to do so.\n\nI did intend, when I got up, to say something in relation to the\neffects of the priesthood; but as the time is so far gone, I feel that\nif I say anything it must be very brief. But in connection with the\nsubject of plural marriage, the priesthood is intimately interwoven.\nIt is the priesthood which produces the peace, harmony, good order,\nand everything which make us as a people peculiar, and for which our\nTerritory has become remarkable. It is that principle--the priesthood,\nwhich governs the heavenly hosts. God and Jesus rule through this\npower, and through it we are made, so for as we have received it and\nrendered obedience to its mandates, like our Heavenly Father and God.\nHe is our Father and our God. He is the Father of our Lord Jesus\nChrist; He is the Father of all the inhabitants of the earth, and we\ninherit His divinity, if we choose to seek for and cultivate it. We\ninherit His attributes; we can, by taking the proper course, inherit\nthe priesthood by which He exercises control; by which the heavenly\norbs in the immensity of space are governed, and by which the earth\nrevolves in its seasons. It is the Holy Priesthood that controls all\nthe creations of the Gods, and though men fight against it, and, if\nthey could, would blot it out of existence, it will prevail and go\non increasing in power and strength until the sceptre of Jesus is\nacknowledged by all, and the earth is redeemed and sanctified.\n\nThat this day may be brought about speedily, is my prayer in the name\nof Jesus, Amen.\n\n\n\nTranscriber's Note:\n\nSome obvious typographical errors have been corrected as seemed reasonable.\nThroughout the source text practice is spelled as both \"practice\" and\n\"practise.\" This inconsistency has been preserved in this electronic\nedition.\n\n\n\n\n\nEnd of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Bible and Polygamy, by \nOrson Pratt and J. P. Newman and George A. Smith and George Q. Cannon\n\n*** ","meta":{"redpajama_set_name":"RedPajamaBook"}}